Haha, I don't care what everyone else says I think you're doing a great job of course we always learn something new every day no matter what. Thanks Jeff I appreciate your videos great job.
Hi Noah, I'm not a concrete man by trade... We used to lay plastic down under our concrete floors to prevent moisture from rising through to the top of concrete on all interior slabs. Maybe this is a good tip, maybe not. Looks great !!!! Rich
Great job on continuing the concrete pad with the rebar tie-in! I'd prefer to use epoxy but your angle method is a good work-around. With the design of rebar, you should get a bit of the new concrete seeping into the rebar hole (though it would be a cold joint.) Also, commendations for re-squaring the slab! Great vid! :)
When would you want to have a plastic sheet under the concrete? and is the only difference in the size of the rebar the amount of weight the finished slab can bear? Thanks again for making these.
Personally, I would put a water barrier under the concrete if I was doing a basement, or just really concerned with water seeping through. Since this is just for a metal garage, and the concrete is thick, I’m not really concerned. And yes for the rebar. Thanks for watching!
Looks good man! Question: wouldn’t it be much easier and cost effective to bring a minimum load concrete truck which would probably be about 2-3 slabs. It should be manageable even with 1 person and cost same as getting it in bags only you save a ton of time by not having to mix it all + haul + trash cleanup.
Thank you. Several problems with that. One is I can’t get a concrete truck close to where this pad is due to a septic tank, so I would have to haul it from the concrete truck to the pad. Not ideal for me. Two, you’d have to measure everything out perfectly to not waste any concrete because as you said you’d need a minimum load. If you waste any concrete it’s no longer cost effective. Also when a lot of these guys are quoting how much per yard, that’s not including a tip for the concrete truck driver. Guess you don’t have to but that’s a different conversation lol. Also dealing with concrete trucks can be a headache in my opinion. Mixing really isn’t that bad. Hauling only takes a couple trips right down the street to my local supply yard. And just a few empty bags for trash cleanup. Honestly not really that bad. Thanks for watching!
Haha, I don't care what everyone else says I think you're doing a great job of course we always learn something new every day no matter what. Thanks Jeff I appreciate your videos great job.
@@noahlcastello4568 thank you 🙏
Hi Noah, I'm not a concrete man by trade... We used to lay plastic down under our concrete floors to prevent moisture from rising through to the top of concrete on all interior slabs. Maybe this is a good tip, maybe not. Looks great !!!! Rich
Great tip on rebar angle I learned something new
very good ideas, technique... luv it
Found ur channel today, new sub here. Quality content and I’m learning. Great job!
Thank you and welcome to the channel!
Atta boy. Get it bro. 👊🏻
Coming along. It’ll get there.
Great job on continuing the concrete pad with the rebar tie-in!
I'd prefer to use epoxy but your angle method is a good work-around.
With the design of rebar, you should get a bit of the new concrete seeping into the rebar hole (though it would be a cold joint.)
Also, commendations for re-squaring the slab!
Great vid! :)
Thanks Mike!
Awesome
When would you want to have a plastic sheet under the concrete? and is the only difference in the size of the rebar the amount of weight the finished slab can bear? Thanks again for making these.
Personally, I would put a water barrier under the concrete if I was doing a basement, or just really concerned with water seeping through. Since this is just for a metal garage, and the concrete is thick, I’m not really concerned. And yes for the rebar. Thanks for watching!
Looks good man! Question: wouldn’t it be much easier and cost effective to bring a minimum load concrete truck which would probably be about 2-3 slabs. It should be manageable even with 1 person and cost same as getting it in bags only you save a ton of time by not having to mix it all + haul + trash cleanup.
Thank you. Several problems with that. One is I can’t get a concrete truck close to where this pad is due to a septic tank, so I would have to haul it from the concrete truck to the pad. Not ideal for me. Two, you’d have to measure everything out perfectly to not waste any concrete because as you said you’d need a minimum load. If you waste any concrete it’s no longer cost effective. Also when a lot of these guys are quoting how much per yard, that’s not including a tip for the concrete truck driver. Guess you don’t have to but that’s a different conversation lol. Also dealing with concrete trucks can be a headache in my opinion. Mixing really isn’t that bad. Hauling only takes a couple trips right down the street to my local supply yard. And just a few empty bags for trash cleanup. Honestly not really that bad. Thanks for watching!
H2P!