Thanks- never had a single boot fitter talk about these adjustments. First offer is a footbed, then heat molding, or a punch or that the boots are wrong for my foot and I should just buy new ones. Have some new Lange's been to two different fitters, did get 1 punch but still had hot spots. Finally after fiddling with the cant in this video and making some cuts on the tongue the boots weren't making my feet scream to come off by noon! I guess that means my days of skiing until the pain was too much and switching to my snowboard in the afternoon might be over.
Alan, I am so glad that aligning your cuffs made such a difference in your comfort. It really does influence not only how the tongue sits on your leg, but how the leg, ankle, and foot all sit within the boot. Enjoy your full ski days :-)
Excellent tutorial, very thorough. As I need a new pair of boots and cuff alignment and canting check, I will know what they're doing and be helpful to the fitter to get it right.
That's great! Thank you. Boots adjusted & if my logic is correct this should help me to not get struck on the inside edge which inhibits transition into the next turn. My ski club (dry slope) is due to open in another 4 weeks time along with outdoor sports facilities in the UK (following Covid shutdown) & I can't wait to get back amongst the slalom poles. No mention of canter adjustment was made when I bought my boots (from a well reputed boot fitter). I am at a loss to understand though why such information is not readily available on manufacturers web sites. Maybe there is an element of liability culture, but surely they want their customers to maximise performance & enjoyment from their equipment!
Martin, you are correct - if your cuffs are adjusted properly, you'll be able to roll on and off edge easily. Releasing from a turn with ease makes it much easier to stay on a good line when running gates. There is a dearth of information about adjusting cuffs, which is a shame. Many boots have that feature, and boots feel and ski better when it's done. At least you now know about it and can share the info with your clubmates. I am thrilled for you that your dry slope is going to re-open soon. Stay healthy, and I hope you enjoy the new boot setup while running gates!
I have been to a specialized shop, where only thing they did was measure my foot (at least) and although I am beginner/intermediate they sold me a semi-pro ski boots. I was ok with that, why not invest in something that will last years. But not a single minute spend on setup or explanation! I have new series Tecnica Mach 1 MV with T-drive, I went on full weekend of skiing with this fixed and was wondering why those boots are so stiff when it is only 110 flex. Not a word about canting adjustment, not a word about fastening adjustment. Give us 400 bucks and bye bye! Thanks a lot for a video like this, it is all 100x more clear to me now and I already adjusted my boots and they fit great! You need to learn everything on your own, even money and well know seller do not help sometimes! :)
I am glad that the video helped you to set up your boots. "Out of the box" only works for the tiniest fraction of skiers. You now have good boots that are more customized to your anatomy... I hope that you enjoy them for a long time!
I think this is the real deal when it comes to get rid of x shaped legs or A frame, when standing on ski. When standing neutral in my boots without alignment i was standing on my outside edge. To be flat i had to press my knees together a little bit. This lead to a x/a frame while skiing. I adjusted this first time after 40 years of skiing and over 10 years of racing. Now the edges feel so much more powerful and quicker. OMG. Watch my video, it is with the not adjusted boot. I will do a second on at the same spot with the adjustnent.
I have adjusted my boots with your instructions and will see in three weeks if there is a difference in my skiing. I am very curious, will let you know the outcome, thanks for the explanation :-)
Mitch Blocher I think it helped big time. I found it much easier to transition from edge to edge in the turns. Also when going flat the skies were much more parallel where as before the back of the skies kicked out into a snow plough position. Really improved with my parallel tuns and overall skiing. Posture has improved too, much more upright. Many thanks! 🙏 🙏🙏🙏
@@estherdehei9763 Interesting, I will be getting a new pair of boots this month and feel I need to be checked for canting and cuff alignment and this video is exact in its description of cuff alignment. At least I can go into the shop knowing exactly what they're doing.
Hi Diana - Thanks for this informative video. I need to align my cuffs (quite a lot) beyond the amount allowed by the boots I have and wondered if it was possible to purchase the t-nuts you mention in one of your answers below? I am based in the UK so unfortunately coming to your shop is not that practical! Many thanks in advance.
Hi Guy, I am sorry, but we do not supply the t-nuts alone. Their installation has to be done "just right", and our insurance only covers it if we do the installation. Do you need to tip your cuff inward or outwards? If the latter, you can get some benefit from using a pad on the medial side of the cuff between shell and liner. (If you have to tip the cuffs inwards, then there is no "quick fix").
@@danorog007 thanks for your reply - much appreciated. I need to tip them inwards unfortunately so will try and find a boot fitter over here that can help. Guy
@@guycrawford6640 send us an email at ask.us@harbskisystems.com, and I can send you some photos of what we do to make a bit more room in cuffs, either beyond what we get with our t-nuts, or for boots where they cannot be used.
How Is "Shaft Alignment" different from "Canting"? From what I've heard they seem to be totally opposite one another. The shaft alignment technique you are attempting to "force" the center of the knee over the center of the boot by either grinding the bottom of the boot or moving the cuffs in the direction that forces the knee over the center of the boot. But with canting you are allowing the knee to remain where it naturally wants to be by matching the upper cuff with the lower leg or in more extreme cases, mounting shims under the bindings or by grinding the soles of the boots. All with the same goal- get the skis flat on the snow while allowing the knee to remain in it's natural alignment. What do you think?
We have nearly thirty years of aligning skiers, from junior to national-team athletes, from novices to all-mountain experts. In our experience, we have found that skiers will ski best ( their skis will behave in unison; ease of making the skis roll on edge; ease of releasing the edges) with a combination of several things... 1. Proper boot fit (not too loose; not so tight that they deform the feet); 2. Aligning the cuffs of the boots with the skier's legs (as shown in this video); 3. Underboot alignment. This last item can be performed with shims under the bindings or by changing the angle of the boot sole. We have found that trying to "move" the knees by pushing them with the cuffs will always have undesirable effects in how the skis roll on and/or off edge. Underboot alignment will move the knees relative to the feet (when viewed in a two-footed skiing stance). Some skiers need more, some less, but it is not "extreme" to perform this; rather, it makes it easier for the skier.
@@Alex-rc1ly we do not do any of this work ourselves, but if it is apparent/likely that the skier would benefit from bodywork (stretching, strengthening, etc.) we definitely recommend it. We leave it up to the skier how they want to pursue it, whether through PT, yoga, etc. If they are able to make significant changes in their body and mobility, we can fine-tune their setup at a later date.
Hello Honey & Jam, you have to pay attention as you try on boots. Most backcountry boots have no cuff adjustment. Many "sidecountry" boots (those with a walk mode) have no cuff adjustments, or have very little adjustment. Boots that are Alpine-specific, with no walk mode, are more likely to have a good range of adjustment. If you look for "dual cuff canting" as a feature, the boots are more likely to offer a good range.
Very good tutorial, I wish however to have seen the adjustments being made, not been kept off camera, or at least showing the tool used and the way to effectuate the changes.
Correct me if I am wrong. It seems to me everything here is done backwards. 1:00 Your explanation of what the formed sole piece does, doesn't explain its use. Its purpose is to support the bottom of the foot when the boot has been buckled to the leg and then adjusted to be flat on the floor. So, the cant adjustment to the leg and the floor has to come first and then a sole can be formed to the bottom of the foot, if the leg was bowed to the outside at all. If a bow-legged person buckles the boot to the leg and the sole isn't level to the floor, you adjust the camber to flatten the sole out. Kind of like this. _/ The leg is in a natural position and the Lower part of the boot is adjusted to the floor. Then, you create the sole piece under the foot, inside the boot. So, it makes sense to me that you tighten the boot to the leg and then adjust the can't to put the sole flat on the floor and then you create the inner sole under the foot. I hope I explained that clearly.
It can be helpful to think of adjusting the cuffs as part of fitting the boots to the skier. As a skier stands on a flat surface, with their feet parallel and in their skiing stance width, their legs join their feet at some angle. Some skiers have very straight shins that rise almost straight up from their feet. Other skiers have more curvy shins that lean outwards as they rise up from their feet. If a skier has shins that go straight up, then the cuffs usually need to be tilted inward so that the cuff is aligned with the leg. For skiers whose shins curve outwards, the cuffs need to be tilted outwards in order to align with their legs. When the cuffs align with the legs, the boot is most comfortable on the leg with no pressure points on the inside or outside of the lower leg; the tongue lines up with the shin bone; and the boot supports the leg and foot in their normal orientation to each other. Once the cuffs have been fitted to (aligned with) the legs, underboot alignment can be used to adjust the position of the knees relative to the center of the boot soles. If a skier's knees are wider apart than ideal, the entire boot can be tipped inward to bring the knees inward. If the skier's knees are closer together than ideal, the entire boot can be tipped outward to bring the knees outward.
These actually are a small unisex boot. In this particular boot, the women's model has a cuff that is 1 cm shorter than the unisex model, but there is no significant difference in the circumference. Becky skis well and she enjoys the support of the higher cuff and stiffer flex. However, it did not improve her cuff clearance. She had previously used the women's model, and the cuff setup needed to be the same in it. If a skier's calf tapers quickly, then a lower cuff is sometimes helpful in terms of cuff clearance or alignment as it can sit just below where the muscles flare outward. IF a skier's calf is a more even "diameter" just above and below the height of the cuff, then a slightly taller or shorter cuff won't have as great of an influence.
@@danorog007 very interesting and very informative. You are very knowledgeable and your video has taught me a great deal about boot fittings before which, I was unaware. Thanks for posting a great video Diane and for your reply!
The "how" varies with the make and model of boots. Some have a cam insert which can be turned to lean the cuffs either direction. Some boots have a toothed ladder between the cuff and lower; you need to loosen a screw, pull the cuff into the new position, and tighten the screw. Some boots have different inserts that have to be swapped into place. Let me know the make and model of your boots and I will tell you how yours work.
Please help! I have the Head Formula 120 with the adjustments on inside and outside leg I dont see anyway to adjust the cuffs since the hole is circular and not elliptical shape for the adjustment. Currently ski tips are pointing towards each other because my tibias are resting against the inside cuff of both skis (lots of space on outside of leg)@@danorog007
@@ryno7437 I am quite sure your Fischers have the older style of cuff inserts, that look like a cross or plus-sign (newer Fischer race boots have circular cuff inserts). There is one on each side of the boot cuff (medial and lateral). The stock inserts are black, and the through hole with the screw is centered in the cross. There are two other inserts, grey and red, with more offset (red has the most), meaning that the center screw hole is offset toward one of the 4 arms of the cross. We will call this the "short arm". Opposite this we will call the "long arm". (Note: the arms are not longer and shorter, but the distance from the screw to the end of the arm is longer and shorter.) You need to get these inserts from Fischer or a dealer. If your shins curve outward, you will want to tip the cuffs outward. In this case you would remove the stock inserts and install either grey or red with the long arm aimed upward on the medial (big-toe) side of the cuff and aimed downward on the lateral (little-toe) side of the cuff. If you have very straight shins, or shins that lean inward, then you will want to tip the cuffs inward. In this case, you would install either grey or red shims with the long arm aimed downward on the medial side and aimed upward on the lateral side. You can mix and match the colors (amounts of offset) to fine-tune the angle of the cuffs to match your legs.
How did you tilt the cuffs further than what's possible with the stock boots? My boots (Atomic Hawx Prime) do not tilt far enough in with the stock cuff alignment adjusters.
Hi Lawrence, we manufacture different hardware to replace the stock t-nuts on the inside of the boot. The new hardware gives more "throw" than the stock.
I'm seeing more and more boots come with no cuff adjustment these days (cost cutting measures?) Is there a way to adjust those types of boots or are they to be avoided entirely? Thank you
That observation is correct. There are two versions of boots without cuff alignment... Cost-cutting with rivets or fixed hardware; boots with a walk mode. In the former it is sometimes possible to remove the fixed, nom-adjustable hardware and replace it with screw/tnut/camming insert from another boot. For boots with a walk mode, one cannot swap the cuff hardware as the cuff-to-lower alignment needs to stay fixed for the walk mode to engage and disengage properly.
Thanks for the vid. One thing that was not mentioned or referenced is the flex adjustment screws/bolts on the back during the cuff alignment. Should these be taken out before doing the cuff alignment? It seems like they should be taken out as they bolt the upper to the lower therefore making the cuff adjustment difficult to do if they remain in. Yay or nay? Could you please elaborate on that? Many thanks.
Hi Sean, Good question. The answer is yes, remove the spine bolts before doing cuff alignment, On some boots, the rear bolts don't really constrain the cuff adjustment, but on others they do. Best to loosen them completely before proceeding.
I am also thinking of buying those HEAD Raptor boots. The only issue is that I heard it is extremely difficult to put on or off. Do you have any tool to help to put it on or off? Or do you have any other suggestions? I am interested in 140.
Head's current boot is different than the one in the video. It's now called the Raptor WCR 140 ("WCR" are the letters designating the new model.) All of Head's latest boots (WCR and Formula) are made of plastic that is more temperature sensitive. This means that they are more flexible at room temperature, but then stiffen to their flex rating at about 20 deg F/-7 deg C. They are definitely easier to put on than the previous Raptor models (non-WCR). They are comparable to put on, or easier, than other brands' 140-flex models. That said, you should try them on a your local Head dealer to be sure you can get them on. Some people have stiffer ankles and higher insteps, and that makes it harder to put on any overlap-style boot.
@@danorog007 In your experience, does the boot gets stiffer or more flexible over time? Plastics tend to change over time. In the midst of winter, do you have any tactics to put on or off your boots? Do you use something like a hair dryer to loosen it up? does it work? I remember trying one of those Raptor boots, and it was so painful to put it on. Once in, it was comfortable. But it created a bruise on the top of my foot. Maybe my foot is one of the inflexible ones. Is there anything I can do to make my foot more flexible?
@@ujaekang All plastic boots get stiffer over time. The more the boots are exposed to sunlight and heat, the faster the process goes. They should feel similar for 4-5 years, but you would probably start to notice a difference after that. You can absolutely use a portable hair dryer to heat the front of the boot in the region of the ankle (where the cuff meets the top of the foot). This helps for getting the boots on and off. Some skiers with stiff feet find it helpful to spray the inside of the liner and the surface of the footbed/insole with a slippery spray, like teflon or silicone. A little goes a long ways. Make sure that your socks are smooth and snug. It's helpful to pull the tongue to one side with one hand, then use the other hand to open the opposite side of the cuff and liner - trying to flare the two sides away from each other to increase the circumference of the opening of the boot.
Hello Chenchao, if you have bow legs, you most likely need to tip your cuffs toward the outside. Depending on what cuff adjustments you have on your boots, lower the lateral side of the cuff (the outside); raise the medial side of the cuff (the inside). Check your results and try to achieve the same gap on both the inside and the outside of each leg. If your lower legs are very curved, you probably will not be able to enter your legs, but any improvement is worthwhile.
@@danorog007 Thank you very much for your reply. I just did the cuff alignment by moving the cuff outside. I see that there are the same gaps between my legs and the shell on both left and right sides. However, after I put the liners back in the shells, when I stand straight up, the bottom of the boots is not 100% flat. I have to bend my knee so that the bottom of the boots are flat on the ground. Do you think whether this matters to the ski performance?
@@chenchaochenchao4592 it is not ideal when the boots do not sit flat. If you have centered the cuffs, then you would need underboot alignment to address the situation. That is a different process, and needs to be done at a qualified shop. Try skiing now that you have centered the cuffs, and see if you are satisfied with the results. If not, let me know and I will help you proceed.
How could his stance be that narrow? The skis tips would definitely be touching each other with this stance. If he just widened his stance a bit the gaps would be equal on both sides.
He does have a narrow stance, both in street shoes and in ski boots. He could just stand in a wider stance to make the indoor situation "look ok", but it does not ski well for him. Using an accurate stance when adjusting the cuffs is necessary, and results in the best on-snow performance.
How do i open cuff adjuster on this boots? There are no holes, and i don't know how to remove black cap. www.skis.com/Salomon-S-Pro-X90-CS-Ski-Boots/586911P,default,pd.html
That boot does not have cuff alignment. You may be able to have it retrofitted at a Salomon dealership. Not all Salomon dealers provide the service, but there is a system from Salomon to remove the original pivots and install ones that permit cuff alignment.
Aligning your cuffs to your legs will make the skis roll on and off edge more easily; it will help them to run "flat" on catwalks or on surface lifts, like t-bars; and it makes the cuffs and tongues most comfortable on your legs.
Thanks- never had a single boot fitter talk about these adjustments. First offer is a footbed, then heat molding, or a punch or that the boots are wrong for my foot and I should just buy new ones. Have some new Lange's been to two different fitters, did get 1 punch but still had hot spots. Finally after fiddling with the cant in this video and making some cuts on the tongue the boots weren't making my feet scream to come off by noon! I guess that means my days of skiing until the pain was too much and switching to my snowboard in the afternoon might be over.
Alan, I am so glad that aligning your cuffs made such a difference in your comfort. It really does influence not only how the tongue sits on your leg, but how the leg, ankle, and foot all sit within the boot. Enjoy your full ski days :-)
Very educational and great help to a better understanding of boot fitting. Thank you!
Thank for the video, it was very informative and helped me to remember that I should check my alignment at the start of a new ski season
I am glad that you found it helpful!
Thanks. Very helpful. I couldn't find another video going in so much detail. Now I can adjust my cuffs on my own!
You are welcome!
Diana, that is amazing!Not just the video, but yor passion in answering so many question in comments section.Thank you!
That is really kind feedback - thank you!
Excellent tutorial, very thorough. As I need a new pair of boots and cuff alignment and canting check, I will know what they're doing and be helpful to the fitter to get it right.
I am glad that you like the video. Good luck with your new boots!
Interesting. Will check my alignment. Please can you lose the background music though - makes it difficult as I have a slight hearing loss.
Thanks so much, and glad that I found your video. Really helpful advice on how to use the canting adjusters. Up until now it's been a mystery!
You are welcome. I am glad that you find it helpful!
Brilliant Diana, thank you!!!
You are welcome!
That's great! Thank you. Boots adjusted & if my logic is correct this should help me to not get struck on the inside edge which inhibits transition into the next turn. My ski club (dry slope) is due to open in another 4 weeks time along with outdoor sports facilities in the UK (following Covid shutdown) & I can't wait to get back amongst the slalom poles. No mention of canter adjustment was made when I bought my boots (from a well reputed boot fitter). I am at a loss to understand though why such information is not readily available on manufacturers web sites. Maybe there is an element of liability culture, but surely they want their customers to maximise performance & enjoyment from their equipment!
Martin, you are correct - if your cuffs are adjusted properly, you'll be able to roll on and off edge easily. Releasing from a turn with ease makes it much easier to stay on a good line when running gates. There is a dearth of information about adjusting cuffs, which is a shame. Many boots have that feature, and boots feel and ski better when it's done. At least you now know about it and can share the info with your clubmates. I am thrilled for you that your dry slope is going to re-open soon. Stay healthy, and I hope you enjoy the new boot setup while running gates!
I have been to a specialized shop, where only thing they did was measure my foot (at least) and although I am beginner/intermediate they sold me a semi-pro ski boots. I was ok with that, why not invest in something that will last years. But not a single minute spend on setup or explanation! I have new series Tecnica Mach 1 MV with T-drive, I went on full weekend of skiing with this fixed and was wondering why those boots are so stiff when it is only 110 flex. Not a word about canting adjustment, not a word about fastening adjustment. Give us 400 bucks and bye bye! Thanks a lot for a video like this, it is all 100x more clear to me now and I already adjusted my boots and they fit great! You need to learn everything on your own, even money and well know seller do not help sometimes! :)
I am glad that the video helped you to set up your boots. "Out of the box" only works for the tiniest fraction of skiers. You now have good boots that are more customized to your anatomy... I hope that you enjoy them for a long time!
Thanks for very informative video!
You are welcome!
Thank you for the informative video!
You're welcome!
Wow, thank you so much for posting. My boots (Atomic) didn't come with any instructions on how to do this. (Thankfully I did get the little tool).
I am glad that you'll be able to set up your boots now!
Well done and informative 👍🏽
Thank you! I am glad that you find it informative!
Super Informative.. Appreciate.
Awesome! Thanks!!!
I think this is the real deal when it comes to get rid of x shaped legs or A frame, when standing on ski. When standing neutral in my boots without alignment i was standing on my outside edge. To be flat i had to press my knees together a little bit. This lead to a x/a frame while skiing. I adjusted this first time after 40 years of skiing and over 10 years of racing. Now the edges feel so much more powerful and quicker. OMG. Watch my video, it is with the not adjusted boot. I will do a second on at the same spot with the adjustnent.
I have adjusted my boots with your instructions and will see in three weeks if there is a difference in my skiing. I am very curious, will let you know the outcome, thanks for the explanation :-)
how did it go?
Mitch Blocher I think it helped big time. I found it much easier to transition from edge to edge in the turns. Also when going flat the skies were much more parallel where as before the back of the skies kicked out into a snow plough position. Really improved with my parallel tuns and overall skiing. Posture has improved too, much more upright. Many thanks! 🙏 🙏🙏🙏
@@estherdehei9763 wow!! Im doing this!
@@estherdehei9763 Interesting, I will be getting a new pair of boots this month and feel I need to be checked for canting and cuff alignment and this video is exact in its description of cuff alignment. At least I can go into the shop knowing exactly what they're doing.
Good job!
I am glad that you like it!
You are welcome!
Best 👍
Hi Diana - Thanks for this informative video. I need to align my cuffs (quite a lot) beyond the amount allowed by the boots I have and wondered if it was possible to purchase the t-nuts you mention in one of your answers below? I am based in the UK so unfortunately coming to your shop is not that practical! Many thanks in advance.
Hi Guy, I am sorry, but we do not supply the t-nuts alone. Their installation has to be done "just right", and our insurance only covers it if we do the installation. Do you need to tip your cuff inward or outwards? If the latter, you can get some benefit from using a pad on the medial side of the cuff between shell and liner. (If you have to tip the cuffs inwards, then there is no "quick fix").
@@danorog007 thanks for your reply - much appreciated. I need to tip them inwards unfortunately so will try and find a boot fitter over here that can help. Guy
@@guycrawford6640 send us an email at ask.us@harbskisystems.com, and I can send you some photos of what we do to make a bit more room in cuffs, either beyond what we get with our t-nuts, or for boots where they cannot be used.
How Is "Shaft Alignment" different from "Canting"? From what I've heard they seem to be totally opposite one another. The shaft alignment technique you are attempting to "force" the center of the knee over the center of the boot by either grinding the bottom of the boot or moving the cuffs in the direction that forces the knee over the center of the boot. But with canting you are allowing the knee to remain where it naturally wants to be by matching the upper cuff with the lower leg or in more extreme cases, mounting shims under the bindings or by grinding the soles of the boots. All with the same goal- get the skis flat on the snow while allowing the knee to remain in it's natural alignment. What do you think?
We have nearly thirty years of aligning skiers, from junior to national-team athletes, from novices to all-mountain experts. In our experience, we have found that skiers will ski best ( their skis will behave in unison; ease of making the skis roll on edge; ease of releasing the edges) with a combination of several things... 1. Proper boot fit (not too loose; not so tight that they deform the feet); 2. Aligning the cuffs of the boots with the skier's legs (as shown in this video); 3. Underboot alignment. This last item can be performed with shims under the bindings or by changing the angle of the boot sole. We have found that trying to "move" the knees by pushing them with the cuffs will always have undesirable effects in how the skis roll on and/or off edge. Underboot alignment will move the knees relative to the feet (when viewed in a two-footed skiing stance). Some skiers need more, some less, but it is not "extreme" to perform this; rather, it makes it easier for the skier.
@@Alex-rc1ly we do not do any of this work ourselves, but if it is apparent/likely that the skier would benefit from bodywork (stretching, strengthening, etc.) we definitely recommend it. We leave it up to the skier how they want to pursue it, whether through PT, yoga, etc. If they are able to make significant changes in their body and mobility, we can fine-tune their setup at a later date.
Do most modern ski boots allow so much adjustment? I have flat feet and am buying new ski boots this season.
Hello Honey & Jam, you have to pay attention as you try on boots. Most backcountry boots have no cuff adjustment. Many "sidecountry" boots (those with a walk mode) have no cuff adjustments, or have very little adjustment. Boots that are Alpine-specific, with no walk mode, are more likely to have a good range of adjustment. If you look for "dual cuff canting" as a feature, the boots are more likely to offer a good range.
Спасибо за полезное видео из России
You are welcome!
Very good tutorial, I wish however to have seen the adjustments being made, not been kept off camera, or at least showing the tool used and the way to effectuate the changes.
five thumbs up!! thanks
You are welcome!
Correct me if I am wrong. It seems to me everything here is done backwards.
1:00 Your explanation of what the formed sole piece does, doesn't explain its use. Its purpose is to support the bottom of the foot when the boot has been buckled to the leg and then adjusted to be flat on the floor. So, the cant adjustment to the leg and the floor has to come first and then a sole can be formed to the bottom of the foot, if the leg was bowed to the outside at all.
If a bow-legged person buckles the boot to the leg and the sole isn't level to the floor, you adjust the camber to flatten the sole out. Kind of like this. _/ The leg is in a natural position and the Lower part of the boot is adjusted to the floor. Then, you create the sole piece under the foot, inside the boot.
So, it makes sense to me that you tighten the boot to the leg and then adjust the can't to put the sole flat on the floor and then you create the inner sole under the foot.
I hope I explained that clearly.
It can be helpful to think of adjusting the cuffs as part of fitting the boots to the skier. As a skier stands on a flat surface, with their feet parallel and in their skiing stance width, their legs join their feet at some angle. Some skiers have very straight shins that rise almost straight up from their feet. Other skiers have more curvy shins that lean outwards as they rise up from their feet. If a skier has shins that go straight up, then the cuffs usually need to be tilted inward so that the cuff is aligned with the leg. For skiers whose shins curve outwards, the cuffs need to be tilted outwards in order to align with their legs. When the cuffs align with the legs, the boot is most comfortable on the leg with no pressure points on the inside or outside of the lower leg; the tongue lines up with the shin bone; and the boot supports the leg and foot in their normal orientation to each other.
Once the cuffs have been fitted to (aligned with) the legs, underboot alignment can be used to adjust the position of the knees relative to the center of the boot soles. If a skier's knees are wider apart than ideal, the entire boot can be tipped inward to bring the knees inward. If the skier's knees are closer together than ideal, the entire boot can be tipped outward to bring the knees outward.
Would you suggest putting Becky into a small men's boot to provide a greater median and lateral gap?
These actually are a small unisex boot. In this particular boot, the women's model has a cuff that is 1 cm shorter than the unisex model, but there is no significant difference in the circumference. Becky skis well and she enjoys the support of the higher cuff and stiffer flex. However, it did not improve her cuff clearance. She had previously used the women's model, and the cuff setup needed to be the same in it. If a skier's calf tapers quickly, then a lower cuff is sometimes helpful in terms of cuff clearance or alignment as it can sit just below where the muscles flare outward. IF a skier's calf is a more even "diameter" just above and below the height of the cuff, then a slightly taller or shorter cuff won't have as great of an influence.
@@danorog007 very interesting and very informative. You are very knowledgeable and your video has taught me a great deal about boot fittings before which, I was unaware. Thanks for posting a great video Diane and for your reply!
@@iveywin You are welcome. I am really happy that my videos are helpful to you!
Please tell me how did you lean that cuf becausa I know WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE! HOW IS THE QUESTION !
The "how" varies with the make and model of boots. Some have a cam insert which can be turned to lean the cuffs either direction. Some boots have a toothed ladder between the cuff and lower; you need to loosen a screw, pull the cuff into the new position, and tighten the screw. Some boots have different inserts that have to be swapped into place. Let me know the make and model of your boots and I will tell you how yours work.
Please help! I have the Head Formula 120 with the adjustments on inside and outside leg I dont see anyway to adjust the cuffs since the hole is circular and not elliptical shape for the adjustment. Currently ski tips are pointing towards each other because my tibias are resting against the inside cuff of both skis (lots of space on outside of leg)@@danorog007
@@danorog007I’m not the person you’re replying to, but I’d also like to know. I have the FISCHER RC4 PODIUM GT 110 VFF - thanks!
@@ryno7437 I am quite sure your Fischers have the older style of cuff inserts, that look like a cross or plus-sign (newer Fischer race boots have circular cuff inserts). There is one on each side of the boot cuff (medial and lateral). The stock inserts are black, and the through hole with the screw is centered in the cross. There are two other inserts, grey and red, with more offset (red has the most), meaning that the center screw hole is offset toward one of the 4 arms of the cross. We will call this the "short arm". Opposite this we will call the "long arm". (Note: the arms are not longer and shorter, but the distance from the screw to the end of the arm is longer and shorter.) You need to get these inserts from Fischer or a dealer. If your shins curve outward, you will want to tip the cuffs outward. In this case you would remove the stock inserts and install either grey or red with the long arm aimed upward on the medial (big-toe) side of the cuff and aimed downward on the lateral (little-toe) side of the cuff. If you have very straight shins, or shins that lean inward, then you will want to tip the cuffs inward. In this case, you would install either grey or red shims with the long arm aimed downward on the medial side and aimed upward on the lateral side. You can mix and match the colors (amounts of offset) to fine-tune the angle of the cuffs to match your legs.
@@danorog007 thank you very much for the info!
How did you tilt the cuffs further than what's possible with the stock boots? My boots (Atomic Hawx Prime) do not tilt far enough in with the stock cuff alignment adjusters.
Hi Lawrence, we manufacture different hardware to replace the stock t-nuts on the inside of the boot. The new hardware gives more "throw" than the stock.
I'm seeing more and more boots come with no cuff adjustment these days (cost cutting measures?) Is there a way to adjust those types of boots or are they to be avoided entirely? Thank you
That observation is correct. There are two versions of boots without cuff alignment... Cost-cutting with rivets or fixed hardware; boots with a walk mode. In the former it is sometimes possible to remove the fixed, nom-adjustable hardware and replace it with screw/tnut/camming insert from another boot. For boots with a walk mode, one cannot swap the cuff hardware as the cuff-to-lower alignment needs to stay fixed for the walk mode to engage and disengage properly.
@@danorog007 Thank you Diana :-)
@@richard_ford You're welcome!
Thanks for the vid. One thing that was not mentioned or referenced is the flex adjustment screws/bolts on the back during the cuff alignment. Should these be taken out before doing the cuff alignment? It seems like they should be taken out as they bolt the upper to the lower therefore making the cuff adjustment difficult to do if they remain in. Yay or nay? Could you please elaborate on that? Many thanks.
Hi Sean,
Good question. The answer is yes, remove the spine bolts before doing cuff alignment, On some boots, the rear bolts don't really constrain the cuff adjustment, but on others they do. Best to loosen them completely before proceeding.
it is good to make voice louder
Walker! time to replace those 1960's boots!
Those are relatively current boots. Think of it as "retro" styling :-)
i hope you get a mic since this video cause its tuff to hear you
I am also thinking of buying those HEAD Raptor boots. The only issue is that I heard it is extremely difficult to put on or off. Do you have any tool to help to put it on or off? Or do you have any other suggestions? I am interested in 140.
Head's current boot is different than the one in the video. It's now called the Raptor WCR 140 ("WCR" are the letters designating the new model.) All of Head's latest boots (WCR and Formula) are made of plastic that is more temperature sensitive. This means that they are more flexible at room temperature, but then stiffen to their flex rating at about 20 deg F/-7 deg C. They are definitely easier to put on than the previous Raptor models (non-WCR). They are comparable to put on, or easier, than other brands' 140-flex models. That said, you should try them on a your local Head dealer to be sure you can get them on. Some people have stiffer ankles and higher insteps, and that makes it harder to put on any overlap-style boot.
@@danorog007 Thank you!
@@ujaekang You're welcome!
@@danorog007 In your experience, does the boot gets stiffer or more flexible over time? Plastics tend to change over time. In the midst of winter, do you have any tactics to put on or off your boots? Do you use something like a hair dryer to loosen it up? does it work? I remember trying one of those Raptor boots, and it was so painful to put it on. Once in, it was comfortable. But it created a bruise on the top of my foot. Maybe my foot is one of the inflexible ones. Is there anything I can do to make my foot more flexible?
@@ujaekang All plastic boots get stiffer over time. The more the boots are exposed to sunlight and heat, the faster the process goes. They should feel similar for 4-5 years, but you would probably start to notice a difference after that. You can absolutely use a portable hair dryer to heat the front of the boot in the region of the ankle (where the cuff meets the top of the foot). This helps for getting the boots on and off. Some skiers with stiff feet find it helpful to spray the inside of the liner and the surface of the footbed/insole with a slippery spray, like teflon or silicone. A little goes a long ways. Make sure that your socks are smooth and snug. It's helpful to pull the tongue to one side with one hand, then use the other hand to open the opposite side of the cuff and liner - trying to flare the two sides away from each other to increase the circumference of the opening of the boot.
Dear Diana, I have bow legs. Could you please show me how to adjust my boots. Thank you.
Hello Chenchao, if you have bow legs, you most likely need to tip your cuffs toward the outside. Depending on what cuff adjustments you have on your boots, lower the lateral side of the cuff (the outside); raise the medial side of the cuff (the inside). Check your results and try to achieve the same gap on both the inside and the outside of each leg. If your lower legs are very curved, you probably will not be able to enter your legs, but any improvement is worthwhile.
@@danorog007 Thank you very much for your reply. I just did the cuff alignment by moving the cuff outside. I see that there are the same gaps between my legs and the shell on both left and right sides. However, after I put the liners back in the shells, when I stand straight up, the bottom of the boots is not 100% flat. I have to bend my knee so that the bottom of the boots are flat on the ground. Do you think whether this matters to the ski performance?
@@chenchaochenchao4592 it is not ideal when the boots do not sit flat. If you have centered the cuffs, then you would need underboot alignment to address the situation. That is a different process, and needs to be done at a qualified shop. Try skiing now that you have centered the cuffs, and see if you are satisfied with the results. If not, let me know and I will help you proceed.
How could his stance be that narrow? The skis tips would definitely be touching each other with this stance. If he just widened his stance a bit the gaps would be equal on both sides.
He does have a narrow stance, both in street shoes and in ski boots. He could just stand in a wider stance to make the indoor situation "look ok", but it does not ski well for him. Using an accurate stance when adjusting the cuffs is necessary, and results in the best on-snow performance.
How do i open cuff adjuster on this boots? There are no holes, and i don't know how to remove black cap.
www.skis.com/Salomon-S-Pro-X90-CS-Ski-Boots/586911P,default,pd.html
That boot does not have cuff alignment. You may be able to have it retrofitted at a Salomon dealership. Not all Salomon dealers provide the service, but there is a system from Salomon to remove the original pivots and install ones that permit cuff alignment.
Why is this reccomended ?
Aligning your cuffs to your legs will make the skis roll on and off edge more easily; it will help them to run "flat" on catwalks or on surface lifts, like t-bars; and it makes the cuffs and tongues most comfortable on your legs.
15 minutes and she never actually shows how she does it!
Why the music???????? should never have music playing in an instructional video. worthless!!