Rocket Mass Heater Build Part 1 | Staying Warm In Alaska
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- čas přidán 9. 09. 2024
- This week we started building our heat source and we aren't going the traditional route.
The rocket mass heater is HUGE! However, it will serve not only as a heater but also as a couch (that's heated, btw.) So while it may take up a lot of room as a heater, it doesn't actually take up more than a wood stove + seating area.
The Rocket Mass Heater Builder's Guide
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Retired mason here. Wet your bricks first and the area your going to lay them and they wont dry out so quick and will be easier to adjust and level etc.
We've had our mass heater for a year. It's been incredible. It's exceeded our expectations by far. We were always cold all winter, for months at a time. We live in an old house with lots of drafts and damp. No matter how much we heated, the house wouldn't get warm. The mass heater keeps the whole house warm on a fraction of the fuel we used previously.
I just put a 2nd layer of plastic insulation on the inside of the windows - the cold drafty house is so holding heat so much better. hahahaha. Glad your RMH worked for you.
Can I ask how you did it indoors?
Thanks for sharing your whole process! So many only share the good stuff and leave out the trouble.
Glad you tore down that first build. My buddy did something similar and his house burnt down first time he fired up the rocket mass stove. No one was hurt and it was a small cabin but bummer none the less.
My home had one of them stoves the previous owner had a professional co. Build it it was about 18 foot long we used it for the first year my house has 2 stoves the other one is a standard wood stove and after a year I took a sledge hammer to it and put In A wood stove there not as great as people say I think people say how good they are because that's what they want to believe after spending all that money and time but I have had one and it was nice and well built but they do not compare to a wood stove and they take up alot of room that's my 2 cents from someone that's been there and done that.
I love how ya'll make it look like even I can do it. Thank you for making this as simple as possible
Your heater should have been built literally from the ground up. The weight and heat will gradually sink and burn the floor below regardless how much sand or aggregate you lay down.
.this is why you see old dilapidated homes weathered away however the fireplace is still standing.
I have seen vids where the fire bricks are soaked in water before applying the slip. This prevents the brick from sucking all the moisture from the slip before it has a chance to cure. Is the slip dries to fast it will crack and cause leaks... so the vids say.
Nice build. Always good to see when folks get it right.
Thank you!
This such an interesting video. I had to pause a few minutes to go read a little about this kind of stove.
Also the longer video had me hooked too
Look forward to the next parts.
Side note, I’ve used perlite in mixture for making cement hypertufa, making garden art.
Your new heat source, I’m sure the cats will like the warm seating as well.
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Both of you are doing great job and is useful thanks❤❤❤
Great job you two
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE! Lets be clear at 24 mins when they say wool insulation they do NOT mean wool, they mean mineral wool or rock wool. Very different from lambs wool which can be used as insulation but will burn and destroy your home
So much hard work . Hope it works 🤞🏼🤞🏼🤞🏼 .
Thanks for sharing, good luck on your adventure.
When she starts talking about "wool insulation" at around 23:15, she's talking about rock wool, not sheep's wool. (Lol, I had to put this clarification in, since I was listening to it while doing other things, and that threw me for a moment. Why? Because one of the I was working on was a crocheting project! XD)
this is awesome thank you
I soaked my bricks in a 5 gal bucket of water before I used them,since them absorb so much moisture.
Pardon my ignorance, but... I see the high/tall tunnel & I understand that there's a passageway between it and the shorter tunnel. What I don't see is any opening in the shorter tunnel for you to put the wood into. If 'Rocket Mass Heater Part 2' addresses this, I apologize. I just saw that there was a part two.
And for those that are thinking about having a rocket mass heater, make sure you do not have a concrete slab then because a rocket mass heater gets temperatures all the way up past 2900°, which is past melting point of steel and well over the past The failing point of concrete concrete can only have a couple hundred degrees before it fails and cracks so if you have a concrete floor in your house, don’t do that you should utilize another thing called a solar battery and pass through solar in your house because it works the same way if not better and you don’t have to take it apart every 1015 years to replace the melted steel and if you have not built your house yet and you want to have a thermal mass stove sure you think of ways to insulate your house for instance when I built my rocket mass stove in my off grid house I used the original basement dug down 10 more feet poured 6 inches of concrete with rebar in it. We packed 6 to 12 inches of dirt then we put underground radiant heating pipes then another 6 to 12 layers of compacted sand again another row of sand and then topping with clay and then your garden bedding because with our house, we utilized the thermal mass underneath the house and it’s very well insulated so no heat from the thermal battery or sand battery doesn’t escape except for in the house. The only times I ever have to turn on my rocket stove is when we go without 12 V batteries to recirculate the heat inside of the water pipes in the ground so I guess my moral of this is if you are going to do a rocket mask stove make sure that you can without rooming the and strength of your concrete
Broaudio is a great channel to learn about RMH...
I'm building one right now
It's taken years to get around to doing it 😂
better late than never.. im in the same boat.. about to take this seriously
I want to build one of those
Are those regular firebricks or insulated? Cus if they’re regular bricks with nothing but cement board between them and the ply floor the ply will burn. And thanks for the vid!
I’m curious why you wouldn’t want to use brick mortar rather than that mud mixture. Thanks!
Bricks and Cement are known to crack sometimes even explode.
wow just wow... from the wood floor to the brick. and the metal barral?? too funny
Few years ago, amiant was the best material for insulation my friend, but was very bad for our health!
Why you trast the perlite?
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Okay I just seen this so LOL I know that girl just love playing in that mud she's still a kid you can tell LOL
i’m sure it’s a very laborious process but have you tried refining clay out of your soil? i think you dissolve and strain it and then let the excess water come out in a cheesecloth but it could be a solution if you don’t want any sand in it!
You can seperate them through settlement in water or casscade. You are right filters would be good for the much larger sand particles.
how many fire bricks did this take total?
how's it going now? Your underfloor is wood right? We had a discussion with having a rocket stove on wood floor and they recommend at least 50cm between the burn chamber and the floor. But I am wondering how are you experiencing the floor heat?
It works great! We put down cement board, then about 3-4” of perlite and sand, then two layers of the 2.5” fire brick as the bottom. Between all of that we feel comfortable and are confident it will not heat the wood on the bottom to the point of scorching!
@@FiddleheadAcres I think we are going with a similar approach, because. we have OSB in our subfloor. And we are building a batch box rocket, so that might also be different from a J-tube. We are now discussing 1/2" tile + 4" perlite/cement + 4" brick with aeration + 1 layer of 2" firebrick. I think that should cover it.
@@FiddleheadAcres I read that no matter how much insulating material you have under the burn chamber you need an air gap. Insulation only slows heat transfer but if you heat an area regularly the wood below will eventually become more susceptible to burning. An air gap dissipates the heat rather than insulates.
@@FiddleheadAcres Dragon Heater instructions: "Over time, wood’s combustion temperature can be lowered due to prolonged exposure to infra-red radiant heat. So while wood may start at a spontaneous combustion temperature of over 400°F, this number can be halved due to prolonged exposure.
This danger applies equally to wood that is below an otherwise non-combustible top layer, such as a tile covered backer board. The non-combustible layers can accumulate dangerous levels of heat which are conducted to the plywood underneath. Over time, the spontaneous combustion temperature of the wood is gradually lowered and the heat accumulation from the tile layer can cause the wooden floor or wooden substrate to ignite."
This is pretty cool but what does your Ins man say about it ?
Hi can you share the plans?
I can only laugh about wasting 15 min of time realizing you re-start the project at 16 min.
Part 2 is here: czcams.com/video/sAv0KzvO0EE/video.html
I see it not stand the test of time … and I predict fire and danger …. I would of built it out of welded metal
On your next build soak the brick in water it allows the mortar to draw up deep into the brick and will also withstand the heat much better.
When will people understand that rocket stoves are not more heat in long run its just more heat at once …everyone wants heat to last all day not get to 40 C in 5 minutes than freeze rest of day
Wow. So the first half of the video is a complete waste of time. 😂 you ripped it down and started over. Ok
Thinking about this you need to calculate the cubic area you intend to heat. Calculate your envelope insulation to contain said heat. Estimate how many BTU of heat your 'mass' can absorb in storage. How many pounds of wood biomass needs to be burnt to release the heat. Perform the math, subtract inefficiencies and you arrive at hopefully a number of seasoned wood in your storage shed. Let's see your calculations... does it pencil? Doubt it. I'd guess you need near 200% more wood to burn for a limited mass to radiate enough heat to maintain 72°F... Show us the math... you wouldn't buy a car or house without metrics... you are building an Alaska heat system without doing the math? Geez!
Too slow. 😞