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How to Sand and Buff Clear Coat - 3M Sand & Polish System
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2020
- Did you end up with that orange peel effect when you finished spray painting your car? We have a solution. In the next 20 minutes, we will show you step by step how to color sand out those nibs and flaws that can't be avoided unless you follow this technique in our video.
Whether you refer to this technique as polishing a car, buffing a car, buffing and polishing, color sand and polish, then this video is for you. 3M makes different grades of sandpaper and we will explain in each step exactly which one to use.
When we get down to the final finish we will show you which pads, polishing compounds and tools to use.
If you like old cars, please visit us at customreplicat...
Sound effect and music courtesy of the CZcams audio library
Elevators Need Rock Too by Spence (No relation, but we'd like to meet this guy).
Really great tutorial. Lot of things I watched on CZcams is lack of details -- not this one.
Wow! That's a fantastic compliment and we're happy to hear it. Thanks so much, and thanks for watching.
I just finished the clearcoat on my Harley fairing. My first paintjob ever! So glad I found your video.
Glad I could help! Viewers like you are part of the reason for what we do. Thanks for watching!
this is a fantastic video by someone who isn't flogging product and actually knows what they are doing
We really appreciate that. We believe it's important to give product information just to make the search on what to use easier. Thanks for your comment and for watching!
@@CarzPlus rrr
😅😮
Thank you so much for this post. I cannot wait to put the elbow work into my paint job I did in the driveway. It's gonna be awesome and did not spend the 10k I was estimated
Happy to hear we've encouraged you to DIY. Thanks for watching!
Nicely demonstrated..thankyou!
Thank you kindly and thanks for watching!
Thank you! Now I can finally quit trying to find the answers you so gracefully explained - correctly. I restore motorcycles, work on customers motorcycles and I'm again building another race bike. Old 1976 Yamaha RD400 two-stroke and I'm way way older than it. LOL. I now feel confident to paint these bikes and it saves me a ton of money. Thank you again for the no-bullshit info!
Thank you so much for your comment. It's greatly appreciated and inspirational. Glad you enjoyed the video and it's especially good to her that you're on your way to finishing your bikes and saving money. Thanks for watching!
Nice explanation on the steps required to make it shine. Pro tip, any parts like the tail light in this example should be removed before starting work if possible, that way you can easily sand up to and underneath where it mounts.
Good tip! Always helpful to share information with the restoration community. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thank you. Just painted my car in my garage and time to do this next step!
Right on! Thanks for watching our video. Pleased to hear that you found it useful.
Putting aside from some basic errors a professional will catch the car he has is very nice. Love the back window. Wish he was closer I'd help him get it straightened out.
The Graham Sharknose is catching on! Overjoyed to know that you like the car.
Best video I’ve seen so far, thank you Sir!
Wow, thanks! Glad you enjoyed it and found it useful. Thanks for watching!
That was a great step by step tutorial I mean you went through everything. Thank you so much
You're very welcome! It's our pleasure to lend a hand with our videos. Glad you found it useful, thanks for watching!
what an outstanding, comprehensive, non-product biased demo and explanation of these finishing steps. I'm a bike builder and have been experimenting spraying raw carbon frames with automotive finishes but with so many surface deviations, I can't avoid problems. this may be my answer
Thank you for taking the time to let us know that you enjoyed the video and found it useful. It means a great deal to us. We wish you the best of luck with your bike projects and hope that you'll have the chance to share your success story with the steps demonstrated in the video. Thanks for watching!
Crazy good video. Best i could find!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks for sharing. I'm in the middle of a garage paint job now - busting through all the myths. I like that you endorse that you can just paint in your garage or even outside. Most definitely. I like painting in winter because there are no bugs or humidity concerns. I have a heater installed high on the wall, so I can easily get the surface temp to 70F. The HVLP guns produce no overspray like the high pressure guns I used as a kid. One thing I'm not bashful on is using an orbital sander to knock out the big flat areas of orange peal instead of by hand. It makes short work of it - although I respect what you are doing and see that it has a curve that could pose an easy burn through.
You're correct on so many counts and this information will be useful to our viewers. It's always good to wear the necessary gear and work in well ventilated areas, depending on the materials used. Thanks for writing and for watching our video.
Nailed it man! I took on my first garage paint job over winter as well. I used an HTE type gun and had damn near ZERO overspray and even without a draft system set up I had no more than 5 nibs throughout the whole car. Booths are great for production but my budget friendly 2 car garage set up produces great results.
@TheRebelyellers vevor sells inflatable kevlar paint booths for 700$ to $1200 depending on size. I own a small autobody shop and am trying to get one myself, as it looks more professional, but have found painting on a concrete floor with walls is about the same as im going to wetsand and buff it anyways. The thing about overspray, tho, is that its fine particals that build up over time. If you paint in there a few times, you'll find it builds up on fibrous materials, fan blades and vents. Not a huge problem. Just sharing my experience from industrial and automotive painting background.
Loved the video , I started watching to give me ideas to fix my issue. I tried a one step swerl remover and scrached my hood worse.
Could I use this system on a factory BMW paint job with swerl marks in the clear coat successfully?
Thank you for all the information❤ ❤
Thank you !! So many bs vids with junk products, and terrible instructions . Wish I saw this sooner, I would’ve saved so much time and $$
Very nice job, thank you, looks like hard, time consuming work that really pays off.
You bet, and we're happy to see that you appreciate our efforts. Thanks for watching!
great tutorial
Thank you! Cheers! Thanks for watching.
Awesome step by step video. Very informative with great results. I'm up to this stage on my build so I'm definitely using this process.
Glad it was helpful! We're happy to hear that you've applied the information in this video to your project. Thanks for watching!
@@CarzPlus ll
I'm no pro painter I have painted a few. Cars and bikes. With I'm guessing perfect weather and right compressor. Cheap harbor freight paint gun.and oil water separator on the gun. Have had very good LUCK. Basecoat clear being the easiest I've worked with. With very little orange peel. Or runs.again luck. I have just painted a front clip on my 90 corvette. And I got lots of orange peel. Heat index here in Illinois 110. Ugh. I've tried the sand buff never worked for me. From watching 1000s videos. Never been able to get sand marks or shine back. But watching your step by step video,THAT MAKES MORE SINCE TO ME. I think I can do it now. We will see. THANK YOU..We'll update FAIL.. SANDED BACK DOWN WAITING ON FREEZE WARNING THEN RESPRAY
We've had similar issues. Sometimes you do have to sand it back down and start over. Like you, we don't do the entire car, rather in stages. A lot of what we do when restoring requires patience and desire. Appreciate the updates. Thanks for watching!
I get those in Chicago winters as well. 38 degrees and still get dust and hair nibs. I think it’s static from sanding specially if you use a tack rag
Interesting. Thanks for pointing that out and thanks for watching.
awesome tutorial! just got done painting my bumper and will use this method to cut and buff. Thanks!
Right on! Happy to hear that you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Thanks for watching!
I learned a lot! Great step by step!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!!
Great explaining while you go along
Thank you! That's a very nice comment and we appreciate it.
Thanks for the video I watched alot on CZcams this one was clear helpful and a great result, good job👏
Thanks for the applause! Glad it helped. We appreciate your thoughtful comments. Thanks for watching!
Great explanation-Very very helpful
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
did you sand the paint back before applying clear coat? I've done a test spray paint of some metal before tackling a big job and the paint has orange peel. Should I sand this, apply clear coats, then sand and polish?
If the basecoat is metallic, NEVER sand it at all. It will result, at best, in "tiger stripes." It's best to color sand the clear coat. If you must sand a non-metallic base coat you can, but I would suggest an overspray properly done before adding the clear coat.
Love the vid. Just got my truck painted but it as some s severe orange peel. I’m afraid to fix it bc I won’t have much clear coat left.
Don't be afraid Logan. James Earl Ray wasn't. Just keep your surface wet, very wet
You can do it! Let us know how it turns out.
Excellent tutorial 👍🏿💯
Thank you 🙌 Really appreciate that.
Excellent video thanks for the tips!!
Glad it was helpful! We greatly appreciate your comment. Thanks for watching!
Knock your eyes out i didn't even know there was 3000 grit a little lone 5000. Thanks for this video, wish I could have seen this video 20 yrs ago I would still have hair!!!!!!!!
Glad we could help! Better late than never as they say. Sand away to your heart's content. Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much for the video - I have a well he said he was a painter - interior of a house painter I feel . Any way it’s a white o3 F150 not a factory white ?? It has flat areas , couple of runs and not much shine . Your suggestion on trying to get a shine - thank you
Yes, you're welcome. Since you didn't specify that it is a base clear paint job. it's hard to be 100% definitive. Given what you described, I would suggest locating a well reviewed detailer. He will be able to look at it in person and suggest what can be done. There are a wide variety of paints and certain products work best for certain types of paint. Generally, he will have to do some sort of compounding and polishing to improve the looks of the paint job. Hope all works well for you and thanks for watching!
Very informative. My main concern is polishing near the edges by the trim or smaller areas where the pad would not be able to fit like between the trunk lid and rear windshield glass.
You can hand polish with micro fiber towels, but it is very time consuming. However, if you look around on the web you can find a variety of specialized shaped small pads that help in small areas. You can also place masking tape on areas to protect them when sanding and polishing in close quarters. Appreciate your comment and thanks for watching!
On amazon they sell smaller drill polishing foam pad attachments all the way down to 1/2 inch sizes . I have a .5 inch , 1 inch , 2 inch , 3 inch and 5 inch foam buffing /polishing pads all from amazon . That way you would be able to get into any spot anywhere ! 👍👍
Is a dual action polisher good for this work, 6 or 3 inch? Thank you.
Good question. Only if you can produce an rmp range of 1000 to 1500 rpm.
@@CarzPlus Thank you!
Most people doing paint correction nowadays only use a rotary for heavy cutting, and a DA for finishing. Many only use DAs.
If I tape off top 1/2 of tailgate and sand pots on the bottom. I did three coats of color all over bottom 1/2. I have not yet don’t the 3 clear coats. My question is when do I untape the top 1/2 to cut the tape line down?
Do I do the clear on the bottom and when untape top 1/2 and wet sand the old and new then buff it all?
Do I untape the top and clear the whole thing? This don’t make scene but I figured I would ask. I’ve never painted before and just fixing rust on bottom of my truck tailgate but have no clue how to knock down that tape line or when to do it.
Good question. It is best to clear coat it all and then proceed, unless you have a pin stripe or easy break in the metal to work to as a stopping point. Hope that's helpful and thanks for watching.
great video and gorgeous car.....
Many thanks! Appreciate your comments. Thanks for watching!
Excelente
Your comment is greatly appreciated. Thanks for watching!
That was a great tutorial and I thank you.
You're very welcome! So good to hear. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for a very helpful video
Thank you so much for your positive comment, it's good to hear and we really appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
So I did bottom 1/2 with paint. I’ll untape top 1/2 and clear the whole thing. But the clear that’s on the top do I need to scuff it up or sand or will the new clear stick to the old clear without doing anything. If I do need to scuff the old clear before adding new clear what grit should I use?
Good question. I would use 320 normally unless the clear you are using specifies otherwise. Thanks for watching!
1000 2000 3000 5000 with water/dawn .. 3M perfected rubbing compound with air powered small polisher with compounding pad (with full size) purple pad. Black pad is finishing pad. 3M perfected Ex machine polish for finishing.
Thanks for the tips, we love it when our viewers share ideas. Thanks for watching!
You're good sir, i did what you did, and the shine came out.
Wow! Happy to hear that you had positive results. Thanks for trying the technique out and thanks for watching. We really appreciate it.
very good video and professional!
Thank you very much! Your appreciation for this video means a lot to us. Thanks for watching!
Looks amazing thanks.
Glad you like it! Thanks for watching.
Good video but I do feel like you could have covered a little more on how to keep your paper clean to avoid scratching the surface as you sand it. My own preference is to not use a small pan li,e yours ti dip my paper in because it get a lot of debris in it that can cause scratching while sanding. Also, maybe touch on how it sounds when sanding as to hear if you have debris on the surface while sanding
Thank you. The water was changed out periodically and was done off camera. Although, a larger pan couldn't hurt. This was filmed without a lapel mic, so the audio recording was done at a bit of a distance. David's voice projects well, so I was lucky to be able to pick it up. The added sanding sounds are a good idea for a future video. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video It really helped a lot
Glad it helped. Thank you so much for commenting and thanks for watching.
Great video
Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching!!
is this machine polish the last step? or would a wax of some kind be even more of a fine finish? or can you end with the 3m machine polish?
That's a good question. We prefer the system used in the video.
for a large/flat surface (i.e. bonnet/hood) is it fine to use an orbital sander with those grit sandpapers? or will that strip it down too much
Good question! Wet sanding by hand is preferable as an orbital sander can be too fast as material removal. It will be too easy for most people to sand to much off. Thanks for watching.
Outstanding Video Man
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for your comment and for watching.
He's killing me talking bout the Chinese pads. 😂😂🤣🤣🤣great job on the car too
Thanks for the nice comments. The smaller pads that were used toward the end (which we consider one-use) are knock-offs of the 3M brand and can be found through Amazon or Harbor Freight. Thanks for watching.
if you have a buildup of residue would a hose with a spray nozzle, be beneficial for cleaning the residue frequently? The DA could have been used throughout the sanding process.
Yes, it can be done that way.
Thanks for watching.
A true craftsman👍
Thank you for posting such a nice comment and for taking a moment to do it. Thanks for watching!
How would you fix clear code that is chipping around the top door Panel where the clear coat is chipping all it is a 2005 Toyota. Avalon? Can I do the same procedure to fix the vehicle
You'll have to restore the entire panel. Unfortunately a small repair as such will show. It's a very good process and can be used on virtually any vehicle. Thanks!!
Great video ... !
Oh, thank you so much! Good to hear that you enjoyed the video.
Dish soap lubricates the sandpaper not allowing it to cut and do its job.
By adding only a few drops, as we did in the video, the soap adds some lubrication, making the job more successful. Hope that adds some clarity for anyone viewing. Thanks for watching!
Will this work on metallic paint with 2,000 grit sandpaper and a da polisher.
Not unless you have a clear coat above it. If you do this directly on a metallic paint you will end up with swirls and or tiger stripes. Even after polishing, as some of the metallic particles will become damaged and their light reflection will change.
Great video!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it and hope you'll put our tips to good use. Thanks for watching!
Thanks.good information
So kind of you to say. Good to hear that you found the video useful. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Very informative. Thanks for sharing your skills with us.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Great job. Thanks!
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching.
I like to use a spray water bottle when wet sanding,seems to work best for me
Great tip! Always appreciate it when viewers share ideas.
Hi there. Is it possible to get polishing pads that will fit to a normal drill? And if so, what RPM's would I set it to for the compound and then the polish?
Thanks for any help 🙂
Try a Google or Amazon search for 1/4" drill Velcro mounts and polishing pads. Speeds in the 1,000 to 1,500 rpm range work well. Slower will still work, but it takes more time. Thanks for watching!
@@CarzPlus
Thanks, I'll check them out
Great video! Thanks a bunch! I had small rust areas cut out, and new metal welded in, and 5 coats of single-stage urethane put down on my '62 Pontiac Grand Prix in cameo ivory urethane (just want a quality driver) by a local body guy. Came out pretty nice, but a lot of orange peel, and normal dust specs. I want to correct the paint myself, and am pretty handy but I noticed you had hand sanded with 1K, 1.5K,2K,3K, 5K until the imperfections once wiped dry were gone, and only then did you switch to the DA and compounds to bring the gloss back. Since my car is quite large I wondered if I could use a DA instead of all that hand sanding. My gut feel is I'd be better off to take the time to hand sand like you did to avoid over sanding, especially since the orange peel, dust, etc. is different on different areas and this is my maiden voyage. Appreciate any thoughts you might have. Thanks a bunch!
Thank you so much, and thanks for sharing your experience. We wouldn't recommend using a DA sander, especially if you haven't done it before. Thanks for watching!
single stage paint also normally has some orange peel because of the thicker viscosity of the urethane based paint and the fact that you can't over reduce it to make it smoother without running the risk of a dull finish. There is an acceptable amount of orange peel for single stage that is normally considered a very slight fog to the edges of the shine, so dont beat yourself up if you find it hard to get single stage to look the same as buffed clear. .
Im not big on 3M Perfect It compounds and polishes i find them to be over rated. When it comes to compound and polish 3D and Sonax rule that industry. However I do like 3M sand paper especially the purple cubitron ll
Thanks for writing. Some of our viewers may give it Sonax a shot. 3M has been my preference for a long time.
@Carz Plus 3m as a company has just really gone down hil. I do like their cubitron ll sandpaper. Their claybars have basically gone to hell in a hand basket which are now made in Brazil go figure. I would give 3D a try you got nothing to loose. Saving yourself money by just needing 2 steps with 500 then 520. I like sonax but it doesn't have the working time 3D does. Technology is changing with ceramic abrasives like 3D uses and gets you done quicker with an even better result
Definitely a Great How To Video. Thanks for not trying to be a movie star and demonstration use of Five Dollar Words. One question I have is.....No Cut And Buff Videos get into HOW to do those Dangerous edges and corners where the paint is thin. Do you get rid of the Orange or just sort of knock it down a little with 3000 and hope for the best? Nobody demos the edges. Thanks for The Video!
Good question! Edges, due to the physics involved in applying spray paint, always have less paint on them. Rarely is it necessary to go right to the edge. It is also very very hard not to sand thru at the edges. This is why no one demos it as it is not a generally recommended procedure. Thanks for watching!
Exactly how I feel about doing it myself….you can say I did it
Thanks for watching. Glad to hear you found the video useful.
They also make 8000 sand paper which is great!
Good to know. Thanks for watching, hope you found the video useful.
@@CarzPlus yes sir, I buff for a living at an autobody shop in Alabama.
Great video! Do you think we can get away with sanding to 2,000? Or will 5,000 give even better results?
You can stop at 2000. However, you will have to polish longer. The best results are obtained going all the way.
Nice job mate
Thank you, we really appreciate that. Glad you liked the video.
That was two years ago nowadays we call them commie pads You should’ve painted it with the windows out so you could’ve sprayed inside the cracks instead you have it all over the black molding I don’t know what you were thinking but you’re doing a fine job polishing.
This is very much the same impression someone else had in a comment sometime ago. During the 1930s, cars fit and finish on an upper-middle-price range car are not the same as the high end cars of the era. They were better than the low end cars. The black "moldings" are the rubber gaskets that hold the rear windows in place. They are fit correctly, and they fit exactly on the patterned glass correctly. There is no paint on these rubber parts at all. The paint is on the metal only. I always paint under all the replacement rubber in advance. Hence the glass is out at that time.
Very nice. Thank you sir.
Most welcome. We're always grateful to see someone step out of the way to give us a compliment on our videos. Thanks for watching!
Nice.
What wax, polish or sealant is good for new paint with a 1-part clear coat? I don't care about the looks, I simply want to wax it yearly for protection from salts and sun. For the past 10 years I only wash my cars twice a year. Spring and Summer. Seems to be good for the paint overall. The dirt creates a protective film! 😆 And doesn't wash away the wax/polish.
Good question. Only apply wax after a full 30 days from the time of painting basecoat clear coat systems. Use a quality paste was with real cannula wax as a component for the longest lasting protection. Thanks for watching.
I j painted my fender a month ago using base and then a 2k clear. It definitely has imperfections in the clear. Do I need to wait a certain amount of time for the clear coat to fully cure before doing this?
Sincere apologies for taking so long on this answer: Always wait at least 30 days for the paint to cure enough. If you hadn't touched it for a month since painting, you're in good shape. Thanks for watching!
can you get the same results if you do it by hand without the machine ?
Good question. Yes, you can, but it will take longer by hand. You need to use a microfiber towel if you di it manually. Thanks for watching.
@@CarzPlus thank you I am subscribe now
Thanks for all the useful tips. L i k e d in subscribed
Thank you so much! We greatly appreciate it and thanks for watching.
Outstanding
Good to know that you and so many others have enjoyed this video. Thanks for watching!
Best to read the instructions on the wax bottles.
Yes, always have a thorough understanding of the product's application and warnings.
Awesome video. Just one quick question. What type of paint were you starting with here? Urethane base coat clear? Lacquer base clear ?
Good question. Urethane base clear in this case. Thanks for watching.
5.17K subscribers plus 1
Thanks for watching! Hope you find our videos useful.
Greatly enjoyed your video. Well explained and demonstrated. Would you mind sharing where you got the very soft pad you introduced at the 2:31 mark in your video? I'm in need of something like this to resume my sanding for my project. Thanks!
Ended up buying a 3M sponge pad from Summit Racing, in case anyone else is looking for a similar pad.
They are available on Amazon.
Good video. Can you do this on a freshly paint plastic bumper that has orange peel? In other words, can you do the same procedure on a plastic bumper? (Bumper is not on the vehicle yet)
That’s what I’d like to know as well. I’m in AZ and just painted my plastic front bumper cover off vehicle. Its a tricoat-base, mid, clear. Great coverage but definitely not as smooth as rest of car. I’d like to see if I can just polish it with compound without sanding but I’m sure that’s probably too easy and the answer is no:) Not sure how long I need to wait either. I finished 2 days ago.
Yes the process will work on modern plastic bumpers. However, you must take unto account the flexibility of the surface and not press overly hard if you may induce irregular sanding depths.
Great video, haven’t painted a car in years and just recently had to do a touch up. I would recommend adding links to your products you use in your description. You have a ton of views and could help you get free products and maybe compensation.
I had one question, so last car I painted was 15 years ago. I wet sanded base before clear coating. Is that even necessary or should I just clear over the base coat and then do what you did here? Thanks again !
Thanks for the tip! Glad you enjoyed the video.
It's not necessary to sand prior to clear coat with the systems I have used. However, their are definitely different instructions, depending on the brand of clear coat. Always refer to your brands recommended procedure when applying clearcoat.
It is a long process, but necessary for a good result!
Thanks, we appreciate your comment! Good to hear that you found the video useful. Thanks for watching!
How long time for this job ??
That's a good question. It's a tough one to calculate after all this time. It's a labor of love and restoring cars is one of those things, that for us, brings joy. Things don't always go right and sometimes those things have to be corrected, as you see here. The demonstration in this video was done, basically, in real time. 20 minutes to 30 minutes. Thanks for watching!
Damn. Never in all my years have I seen anyone sand that hard with 1000. Absolutely amazed that you didn't cut right through. And folks use s pray bottle with soapy water while yourcsanding so you always see what you're doing. If your rocking the car that much your pushing to hard and your ruining your paper.
It's always worked well for me. spray bottle with soapy water while sanding is an interesting idea. Thanks for watching.
If i was a beginner i don’t think the best thing would be a die-grinder to learn with, I’d say start random orbital with a cut pad and a lot of pressure.. ill bet that little grinder can sling that compound a good 30ft.
The buffer in the video isn't a grinder. It is a variable speed buffer which runs between 1000 and 6000 rpm. I virtually never set it above 2000 rpm. If you are slinging compound everywhere you are using too much compound or too high an rpm. I never use a grinder for polishing. Thanks for watching.
Does this only work on cars that were painted with clear coat? (Versus cars painted by maaco with no clear coat)
You could, but it's a good idea to test in a small area first. Thanks for watching!
Is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound the same as 3m perfected rubbing compound
No they not the same. Each is its own formulation. This is not to say they will both not perform well. I use what I showed in the video. Other products may well work in a similar manner.
what was the brand of sand paper again?
3M
I would have covered the chrome trims as scratching then would be a pity
No scratches here. We covered only what was necessary for the demo. Yes, we do need to protect the hard work that has already been done.
Love it😊JR
Good to hear that you found it useful. Thanks for watching!
Glossy-ass results.👍👏⭐️
Thank you! 3M makes a top-notch product and we were happy to feature it in this video. Thanks for watching.
Hello, I need some help, I went sanded, primed, base coat, then clear coated all duplicolor product on a quarter panel. Paint color blended good except the surface is course and not silky smooth or shiny like adjacent areas. Is there a way to correct the job? Do I run the risk of making it worse,?
Thanks
If you have a good coat of clear as described in the video you can
use the process described to fix it. As to why one had the problem
it is largely, but not always completely due to application technique. However, even new car manufacturers with their fancy paint facilities do not produce a finish that is perfect without additional hand work.
@@CarzPlus thanks
@@CarzPlus hello, after reading your suggestion, I compound and polished my not so shiny duplicolor clear coat and I did see much improvement. I still can see a difference between the factory finish and my work. I wonder if I scuffed my work, and apply 2 k clear coat to my repair work, would I be creating a mismatch to the 2017 factory finish (very good condition)?
Thanks
Mean to say not much improvement
When trying to match the finish of a modern base coat clear coat system you should use a modern clear coat catalyzed paint. Lacquer is great for a whole car or project when you are not directly comparing it side by side with modern clear coat. The car in this video is not done in lacquer. We have videos covering both on the channel
.czcams.com/video/9rwculdVNZQ/video.html
After 2000 you can jump to fine rubbing compounds then polish.
Great idea. Love it. Assuming that it has worked for you, we're thankful to you for sharing the information with our viewers. Thanks for watching!
It would be REALLY nice if you linked all the stuff you used.
Just finished watching the entire video and I found it was easiest to watch it with the CC turned on so that I could catch the specific name of the 3M polishing compounds used. Now, when it comes to the brand of tape pads and sandpaper and sanding blocks used, a majority of them are 3M. Anything that wasn't purchased locally, was purchased on Amazon. David here, has mentioned independent sellers who sell through Amazon and they kind of come and go, so links to those sellers can expire. The smaller pads that were used toward the end (which he considers one-use) are knock-offs of the 3M brand and can be found through Amazon or Harbor Freight.
Why did you clear over primer?
There is no clear over primer. The color in the video is the original color for this 1939 Graham Combination Coupe. The color is called Airliner Gray. It was the great depression and colors on most 1930's cars are far more subdued than in later decades.
Good job. But please soak your sand paper first..... This is a must.will keep you from scratching your paint.
Yes, thank you.
I had these like dots after clear coating my carbon fiber hood. So I used a 1000 grit, and now my hood is foggy. Should I re coat? I have a polisher that doesn't really help with buffing anything out. What would you recommend?
Not sure if you mean depressions or bubbles. Depressions would mean fish eyes. These can occur with silicone or oil contaminants on the surface coated or in your air system to your paint
gun due to inadequate filtration. Bubbles would more likely occur with too fast a surface drying condition and wet paint trying to outgas below an effectively sealed surface. If fish eyes you need to be sanded smooth and be sure you eliminate the source of contamination. Using a proper precleaner is a must. You may also want to add fish eye remover to your clear. The process for bubbles would be the same, but you will need a slower acting clear coat mix assuming the same relative temperature when you spray. This will slow down drying time and should stop bubbling. Still make sure there are no contaminants as mentioned earlier. You also need to follow up with the other grits and polishes shown in the video or is will appear hazy when done. Just using 1000 grit will not normally allow a quality shine on the finished surface.
Awesome! (1) So orange peel on the base coat doesn't really matter?... As long as the top/outer surface of the clear coat is smooth/flat the paint job will look great? And (2) how long did it take you to do this whole car?
Yes, exactly. 2) It would take about 7 days 8-10 hours apiece to complete this process. Thanks for watching!
@@CarzPlus Thank you
I'm sorry but if your base is orange peeled or rough doesn't matter how flat your clear is the light will reflect off the base and it will always look like orange peel.
No