How to make the "New cyanotype formula"!!
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- this is the second video for the cyanotype formulations series I am trying to do. This is based on the original instructions from here www.mikeware.c...
On my 200w UV exposure unit it takes 5-6 minutes on Canson XL paper for the traditional cyanotype formula. This was 1.5 minutes on the same unit with the same paper . The next videos in this series will be exploring 2 step cyanotype formulas " one sensitizer and one developer" and there advantages and disadvantages then after I am finished with formula videos I will make one comparing exposure times of each formula and overall look and D-max. I wanted to note that the "new cyanotype formula" did not like the Canson XL paper as well as the traditional formula, it started fogging a blue color as it dried so I will probably be using the Canson Montval paper for future tests.
Glad to see someone go through this process. I've gotten a firm handle on Kallitype and salted paper, and decided to try Cyanotype for a couple of reasons. First, it apparently does well with similar negatives (in terms of contrast range) that work well for Kallitypes, so I have several on hand. Second, I can't resist that sexy blue color.
In the research phase, I found Mike Ware's article and figured if I'm going to do cyanotypes, I might as well use the most up-to-date approach, even if it's slightly less convenient to prep the chemistry.
I'm going to include the ammonium dichromate Mike suggests in his article, as well as Tween 20 immediately prior to coating. Any recommendations for a newbie to the cyanotype world? Worth adding hydrogen peroxide to the developing bath? What's the advantage of adding an acid like vinegar if I'm already printing on an ideal paper (HPR)?
I uploaded this video just to go over how to make the new formula however I cannot say that I recommend using it at all. It is very picky about paper, you really do not get any results with peroxide and you have to wash in citric acid to remove a brownish stain this formula creates in the highlights. My favorite formula is the 10/10 method which is 10% Potassium ferricyanide and 10% Ferric ammonium citrate. You mix them together before coating the paper. This formula works with almost any paper type and if you develop it in undiluted white vinegar you have an amazing tonal range.
@@matthewbary1 Thanks for the tips - I have already started experimenting with New Cyanotype and seem to be getting pretty good results so far. But I definitely haven't ruled out the possibility of going back to classic cyanotype if I can't get what I want in the final prints with New Cyanotype. I'm aware it's rather controversial :)
Thanks for the detailed sharing of the mixing process. I always hesitated New Cyanotype because reading about preparing seemed too complicated compared to Classic Cyanotype. You didn’t mention Ammonia Dichromate which is part of Ware’s? Does it matter?
Just bought a dual hot plate and some glass beakers 🤗
I omitted the dichromate simple because I will be using most of this solution for testing. It appears it is primarily a preservative. It also may slow it down a little and provide some contrast control but I haven't tested that so far. I was also trying to keep the number of toxic chemicals low lol
Will this work for fabric? I want to print on fabric and make sure it doesn’t wash out but I’m not sure how to go about it
I am not sure if anyone has used the "new cyanotype" on fabric. The resulting "Prussian blue" would be the same from ether so I would use the classic as it is more stable and several people have already done it on fabric.
Hi !
I am printing cyanotype using new cyanotype recipe for many years and I randomly have issue with the sensitizer which tend to be dark green with Prussian blue in suspension In the solution and I don't quite understand why its happening randomly... It result in fade result with a lot of the sensitizer being wash away when rincing....
Did you already encounter this issue ?
I never used dichromate potassium as it's not available in Europe and I am wondering if it might be the reason why I am having these issue...
Do you know any replacement for dichromate available in Europe ? Does Diazidostilbene might be an option ?
I am also wondering if it might be caused by raw chemical quality but I bought them from Bostick and Sullivan so it should be fine ?
I would greatly appreciate any feedbacks as I am quite desperate to understand these issue !
have a good day !
I have avoided the "new cyanotype" formula as it is just very complicated and very sensitive. You almost have to make it right before you use it as if it sits to long it goes blue. Also you have to be careful of the paper used, how much humidity is in the air when it dries, just allot of issues with it so I avoid it at all cost. However if you really want to pursue this method I recommend going to www.alternativephotography.com/ and check out the section on "new cyanotype" and maybe you will have more luck with it than myself.
Thanks for taking the time to answer ! I print cyanotype using this technique since 7 years and I am very happy with the result when it works but there is a lot of random in the result depending on the chemicals and I am very frustrated with that... I don't understand what is the cause of it...
I thought it was only supposed to sit for an hour could that be why u had way more crystals?