Your knowledge of the mechanics of Glock trigger function is phenomenal and your willingness to share your knowledge to educate folks is very generous and very much appreciated. I find all your videos very interesting and thank you for all the time you take to produce the videos that you share with your "eager to learn" audience ! Thanks Johnny and God bless!
This is a great explanation! - watched both parts - finally explains my g17s (3.5) spongy trigger and lack of sharp break in a way I can actually see, thanks for posting - will be calling
I am a GRAND MASTER in USPSA and been doing this for awhile but this is the best information video i have ever seen!!!! You know your shit!!! Well done and thanks for the awesome videos!!
I know this video is fairly old but it is a perfect example of what happens when someone is a true expert in their specific trade. I am a network architect w/ 18 years of experience & when helping anyone with basic computer knowledge I always try to not only fix the specific issue but most importantly provide the end user w/ knowledge to help them truly understand what has happened. Thanks for being willing to share your expertise. The usual behavior by experts is to monopolize their knowledge and somewhat hold the customer or user hostage. I was really impressed and came away understanding the basics of the Glock action much better than before. I too always try and understand what it is I am working with.
Thanks for the compliment brother. I try to help not hinder or better put stagnate especially when people's lives are potentially on the line. ultrasound
Thank you for your diagrams comparing the various trigger pull weights and their corresponding lengths of trigger pull. It was incredibly informative and helpful.
One of the things that you can do with the Johnny Glock modified OEM trigger shoe is reduce the pre-travel as far as you can without contacting the safety plunger with the vertical extension. Reducing the pre-travel moves the trigger bar further back at the beginning of the pull and helps compensate for the longer pull of a lighter connector. Then you can adjust the final Polaroid by installing the appropriate weight striker spring.
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a method to log back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost my login password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Graysen Konnor thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
These two videos were a great help for me in understanding the range of feel between different parts. I am certainly a step closer to getting the trigger feel I am looking for. Thank you! TA
@@johnnyglocks this was an interesting watch. So how is it some triggers achieve a hard wall break despite the increased chance of sponginess with a minus connector?
thanks man just found your videos and subscribed and i really appreciate all the in depth details and and knowledge that you share with us very clear and well explained. keep up the awesome work thank you.
I know this is a super old video but if you add an upgraded safety plunger spring your going to have 40 combinations with the 4 connectors and 5 springs. That’s 20 between them and then each combo using a different safety spring makes 20*2 so 40 not 25 combos. If you added in another component to adjust like a reset spring it would make 80 combos and so on. Love these videos keep them coming.
Your videos are so informative! I just did my first Glock build and I was in the mindset to get as light of a trigger as possible so I went all out; 4lb striker spring, 3.5 (4.5) connector, increased power trigger spring, reduced plunger spring, and topped it off with a high polish on all internal parts. I’m satisfied to a certain degree, it is definitely smooth as buttered glass and light as a feather but it’s on the spongy side.. from what I gathered from your video I should use the 5lb dot connector to get some of that spongy feel out? And maybe go back to the oem trigger spring to help the reset? Ima keep messing with it but any feedback from you would be much appreciated. For my next build I’m definitely going to give you a call and get you to whip me up one of those 1911 Glock triggers.
Great video it took me a while to understand things until you brought out the paper dia. and showed the difference in angles. I think most people just put all kinds of different shit in their Glocks not fully understanding the mechanics, don't think they even care but I like to know and appreciate you explaining these things.
Johny glocks is the goat about glocks and proble more then just glocks iv built some crazy glocks from theese videos and I mean crazy love the videos and would love to check out the shop for a month or so best videos ever .
Quick question. (i’m good with a nutshell answer). I trust your advice over others. Regarding the safety plunger, would you recommend against slightly reshaping the head of the safety plunger to more closely resemble the profile of some of the aftermarket ones? I’m guessing it’s probably obvious to you why I would want to do such a thing. Thanks for your time once again!
When I first built my 19 it didn't have enough engagement and had trigger reset failure... Break felt great and didn't understand the "spongy " pull people talked about until i fixed the engagement 100%
I'd love to see a video talking about the geometry of the ghost EVO elite. I'd love to know the reasons behind some of the changes they made. I think they shorted the time it takes for the trigger to break by moving the little angled piece forward, and got rid of the bump by moving it up. It also looks like they move the reset tab backwards? I have this connector and love the way it feels with no bump.
Just tuned my Evo Elite today and with just polished internals it is super smooth with no wall (bump). Super easy to line the sights up and pull straight through without disturbing the alignment of the gun. It's very nice. No messing with springs or anything like that as I want to maintain reliability with primer strikes etc. Wish I knew more about the connector geometry. I'd love to know how Johnny really does it haha.
Hi John is saw a video that you were trying to shorten the travel in your sons gun with the Timiny trigger. I was able to take out the travel completely by very slightly changing the geometry of the trigger bar. I found out if you bend it down a degree it takes the free travel out. My Glock 19X now has zero travel in it you push the safety down and the trigger is at the wall. I learned a lot from your videos and not sure if my findings helped at all.
Thank you for the videos Johnny, it puts things into perspective. I didn't realize there was a compromise between spongyness & lightness because I have been trying to lighten my trigger as much as possible up until this point in hopes it would be more crisp. Boy was I way off 😂 but my question is, is there a way to do it? Like a shorter shelf once you hit the wall or something? I know it'll never be like a 1911 & I am enamored with the 1911 trigger but my preference for carry is Glock
If you use a standard connector and drop the firing pin weight to 4.25 lb that will have you sitting at 3.5 lb if you want it a tad later you can add a 6 pound trigger return spring at no penalty to reset. This is pretty much the best way to do it. If it's a competition gun and you're using soft primers you can use a 4 lb firing pin and that will put you closer to 3 lb spring
@@johnnyglocks Hi from Brazil! I have a Gen 5 G17 and i want customize it for competition ( IPSC ). I need a better trigger pull. What changes you recomend to me? Thank you!
Hey johnny, I tried looking for the +6 connector on your site, but had no luck. Can you please help, lol. I did your trigger mod, (trigger shoe, shark fin & roll pin in trigger housing) I also modded the rear of the trigger housing by drilling a hole and tapping a m2 grub screw to adjust trigger travel. Everything works safe and great but I want a hard wall and I'm looking for a +6 connector as you described in this video. Would you recommend me changing out the trigger spring, striker spring or both. Thanks in advance🤙
Question Johnny. What if you were to grind off a small portion of the left side of the 3.5 angle connector, in order to shorten the 3.5 travel distance, making the 3.5 travel distance the same travel distance as a 5.0 connector travel distance. Would that even be feasible? And how would that affect other operations of the pull?
ghostcar that's a great question however it doesn't do what you would expect it to do And you basically will not be able to reset with certain length of pre travel. That type of modification works better with a 5.5 connector I suggest you buy some and try it.
When I use a 3.5 pound connector I find in my trigger pull I run into the safety plunger right before I make contact with the connector, if I wanted to use that 3.5 (4.5) I would need to do some work to the birds beak to make it were I make contact with both at the same time and not feel that/grit/ before my brake correct?
I've always heard, "connector bar angle" and so I thought they actually had different angles, but it seems the weight rating of the bar is what determines the break .
I just saw another one of your videos and i realized why you where those, sorry about the stupid question. I just started seeing your videos and hadnt seen you in full person. I do enjoy your videos.
What about slightly bending the dogleg forward(towards muzzle) to increase the return spring tension a lil.. I have seen that long ago n have done it long ago but can not find anything on it now
So basically if your shooting with hard primers you want a 4.5 minus connector because it cocks the striker further back, so you would get more “throw” of the firing pin?
Hey Johnny, not sure if you will see this considering this video is 4 years old by this point, but wanted to ask anyways: First, fantastic presentation; thank you for putting this together! You really do make it quite clear! However, I do have two questions: it looks like as you move to the lighter weight connectors, the birds beak/cruciform has to move further back along the X axis to achieve the necessary movement along the Y axis to break. If so, this would result in more compression of the striker spring. Conversely, the heavier weight connectors would result in less compression of the striker spring. 1. Have I interpreted this correctly? 2. Is this change in striker spring compression enough to get light strikes when moving to a heavier connector and should one look to a heavier striker spring to prevent this? Thanks again!
Id like to see a video of the different types of 3.5 connectors. personally I hate the ghost, inconsistency is ridiculous. Lonewolf, Zev, TTI.....etc. All 3.5 connectors but all feel different in there own way....thoughts?
RAZORJB absolutely I'll have to get my hands on a majority of them the only ones I'm used to really seeing are all the different ghosts, Double Diamond, ZEV V4, and OEM. If you could list all the ones you want me to compare.
JOHNNY GLOCKS the persona thanks. My personal favorite is the LW. Here are the ones I was thinking about and have used. Mind you some of these and others are Glock OEM minus connectors modified or rebranded. Any other connectors or thoughts would be good as well. Think with your knowledge this would be a good video. Thanks ZEV Taran Tactical Double Diamond Lonewolf Suarez International Glock OEM Minus Ghost (Various 3.5s)
why not make a "horn" or a notch on the "bird beak" of the rear transfer bar so that there is a hard wall and crisp break instead of a squish at the end?
Colby C. the New York one is simply an alternative mechanism in the trigger housing. It really doesn't do a whole bunch for reset. it's designed to give a revolver like pull. Where as the pre travel is free an unencumbered with just a trigger spring the New York one or two function to Give the that free travel actual tension so it feels like a singular pull the whole way back. there's not much of a first stage pump because it's designed to work like the double action of a hammer and seer trigger as opposed to a striker fire.
Freedom Forged the dot (.) connector is considered from Glock a 5 lb connector the standard is 5.5 and the minus is 4.5 this is because with the stock Glock OEM 5.5# Striker spring the above break weights are achieved with the corresponding connector. However it's all relative when I think of connectors I think in angle degrees the standard 5.5 is 90°the. Is (.)85 and the 4.5 (-) is 80 .
Your knowledge of the mechanics of Glock trigger function is phenomenal and your willingness to share your knowledge to educate folks is very generous and very much appreciated. I find all your videos very interesting and thank you for all the time you take to produce the videos that you share with your "eager to learn" audience ! Thanks Johnny and God bless!
This is a great explanation! - watched both parts - finally explains my g17s (3.5) spongy trigger and lack of sharp break in a way I can actually see, thanks for posting - will be calling
Great! I'll be ready when you are.
I am a GRAND MASTER in USPSA and been doing this for awhile but this is the best information video i have ever seen!!!! You know your shit!!! Well done and thanks for the awesome videos!!
Thanks brother I appreciate the props I try to keep it next level there's enough tabletop reviews out there
do they make you type grand master in all caps?:/
I know this video is fairly old but it is a perfect example of what happens when someone is a true expert in their specific trade. I am a network architect w/ 18 years of experience & when helping anyone with basic computer knowledge I always try to not only fix the specific issue but most importantly provide the end user w/ knowledge to help them truly understand what has happened. Thanks for being willing to share your expertise. The usual behavior by experts is to monopolize their knowledge and somewhat hold the customer or user hostage. I was really impressed and came away understanding the basics of the Glock action much better than before. I too always try and understand what it is I am working with.
Thanks for the compliment brother. I try to help not hinder or better put stagnate especially when people's lives are potentially on the line. ultrasound
Thank you for your diagrams comparing the various trigger pull weights and their corresponding lengths of trigger pull. It was incredibly informative and helpful.
Fantastic, easy to understand...and mathematically impressive...graph of the difference in the connectors! Will def be looking into your products!
Very knowledgeable, I learn more about Glocks than I ever knew thanks to Johnny. Thank you sir!
Finally, a simple an easy way to explain (and for me to understand) how the different connectors works.
The most informative video I've ever seen on the topic. Thanks
Great video. Followed with no problem. Thanks for posting this information. Best of life to you this new year.
One of the things that you can do with the Johnny Glock modified OEM trigger shoe is reduce the pre-travel as far as you can without contacting the safety plunger with the vertical extension. Reducing the pre-travel moves the trigger bar further back at the beginning of the pull and helps compensate for the longer pull of a lighter connector. Then you can adjust the final Polaroid by installing the appropriate weight striker spring.
“ Connector bar angle “ that’s what I call it... =)
Awesome info! Thanks man.
I've learned more about glock triggers in the past hour than in the 15 years of shooting them. Thanks
sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a method to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost my login password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Reece Hector instablaster :)
@Graysen Konnor thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
These two videos were a great help for me in understanding the range of feel between different parts. I am certainly a step closer to getting the trigger feel I am looking for.
Thank you!
TA
Glad you got something out of the video buddy. It does make a difference
@@johnnyglocks this was an interesting watch. So how is it some triggers achieve a hard wall break despite the increased chance of sponginess with a minus connector?
Great visual explanation. I like pictures in books. This is like as close to hands on learning with video you can get.
thanks man just found your videos and subscribed and i really appreciate all the in depth details and and knowledge that you share with us very clear and well explained. keep up the awesome work thank you.
I know this is a super old video but if you add an upgraded safety plunger spring your going to have 40 combinations with the 4 connectors and 5 springs. That’s 20 between them and then each combo using a different safety spring makes 20*2 so 40 not 25 combos. If you added in another component to adjust like a reset spring it would make 80 combos and so on. Love these videos keep them coming.
January 2021 and this video (and Channel) is still superior. Amazing education.
This absolutely explains why I don’t like the trigger in my 19x….going to swap the - out for the standard 5.5#
Great video. Watched both parts. Appreciate the information big time.
Great video! Very well educated information!
Your videos are so informative! I just did my first Glock build and I was in the mindset to get as light of a trigger as possible so I went all out; 4lb striker spring, 3.5 (4.5) connector, increased power trigger spring, reduced plunger spring, and topped it off with a high polish on all internal parts. I’m satisfied to a certain degree, it is definitely smooth as buttered glass and light as a feather but it’s on the spongy side.. from what I gathered from your video I should use the 5lb dot connector to get some of that spongy feel out? And maybe go back to the oem trigger spring to help the reset? Ima keep messing with it but any feedback from you would be much appreciated. For my next build I’m definitely going to give you a call and get you to whip me up one of those 1911 Glock triggers.
Absolutely a master at what you do…
This is still very relevant for checking your Glock or Glock clone today. - Thank you!
This 2 part video was absolutely perfect 💪🇺🇸💪
Great video it took me a while to understand things until you brought out the paper dia. and showed the difference in angles. I think most people just put all kinds of different shit in their Glocks not fully understanding the mechanics, don't think they even care but I like to know and appreciate you explaining these things.
Johny glocks is the goat about glocks and proble more then just glocks iv built some crazy glocks from theese videos and I mean crazy love the videos and would love to check out the shop for a month or so best videos ever .
Awesome job!! Thank you.
1911 style break sounds awesome
Quick question. (i’m good with a nutshell answer). I trust your advice over others. Regarding the safety plunger, would you recommend against slightly reshaping the head of the safety plunger to more closely resemble the profile of some of the aftermarket ones? I’m guessing it’s probably obvious to you why I would want to do such a thing. Thanks for your time once again!
What angel does the sear have?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge , most people that sell parts won't give info , so thank you for the videos.
When I first built my 19 it didn't have enough engagement and had trigger reset failure... Break felt great and didn't understand the "spongy " pull people talked about until i fixed the engagement 100%
I'd love to see a video talking about the geometry of the ghost EVO elite. I'd love to know the reasons behind some of the changes they made. I think they shorted the time it takes for the trigger to break by moving the little angled piece forward, and got rid of the bump by moving it up. It also looks like they move the reset tab backwards? I have this connector and love the way it feels with no bump.
I love the no feeling of the bump however it feels like friction on mine. I prefer the zev race connector. Seems more crisp and lighter
Just tuned my Evo Elite today and with just polished internals it is super smooth with no wall (bump). Super easy to line the sights up and pull straight through without disturbing the alignment of the gun. It's very nice. No messing with springs or anything like that as I want to maintain reliability with primer strikes etc.
Wish I knew more about the connector geometry. I'd love to know how Johnny really does it haha.
Hi John is saw a video that you were trying to shorten the travel in your sons gun with the Timiny trigger. I was able to take out the travel completely by very slightly changing the geometry of the trigger bar. I found out if you bend it down a degree it takes the free travel out. My Glock 19X now has zero travel in it you push the safety down and the trigger is at the wall. I learned a lot from your videos and not sure if my findings helped at all.
Nice vid man. Keep it coming...
Winner.. U da man
insane. thank for the insight of the intricacy of the glock. learned alot through your videos
How can you get that super quick break you were talking about on 7:15?
It would be nice to post a link to part one!
So what should I add to my Glock to have a lot less pretravel?I want a short crisp break but less travel.I don’t want a sponge trigger
What do you think of the new black ice connector? From the glock store. Renamed black yikes? They claim it's the best.
What a great guy
what I would like is stock trigger with a reset that will push my finger off the trigger not literally but you get what I'm saying
Thank you for the videos Johnny, it puts things into perspective. I didn't realize there was a compromise between spongyness & lightness because I have been trying to lighten my trigger as much as possible up until this point in hopes it would be more crisp. Boy was I way off 😂 but my question is, is there a way to do it? Like a shorter shelf once you hit the wall or something? I know it'll never be like a 1911 & I am enamored with the 1911 trigger but my preference for carry is Glock
If you use a standard connector and drop the firing pin weight to 4.25 lb that will have you sitting at 3.5 lb if you want it a tad later you can add a 6 pound trigger return spring at no penalty to reset. This is pretty much the best way to do it. If it's a competition gun and you're using soft primers you can use a 4 lb firing pin and that will put you closer to 3 lb spring
@@johnnyglocks Hi from Brazil! I have a Gen 5 G17 and i want customize it for competition ( IPSC ). I need a better trigger pull. What changes you recomend to me? Thank you!
Hey johnny, I tried looking for the +6 connector on your site, but had no luck. Can you please help, lol. I did your trigger mod, (trigger shoe, shark fin & roll pin in trigger housing) I also modded the rear of the trigger housing by drilling a hole and tapping a m2 grub screw to adjust trigger travel. Everything works safe and great but I want a hard wall and I'm looking for a +6 connector as you described in this video. Would you recommend me changing out the trigger spring, striker spring or both. Thanks in advance🤙
Question Johnny. What if you were to grind off a small portion of the left side of the 3.5 angle connector, in order to shorten the 3.5 travel distance, making the 3.5 travel distance the same travel distance as a 5.0 connector travel distance.
Would that even be feasible? And how would that affect other operations of the pull?
ghostcar
that's a great question however it doesn't do what you would expect it to do And you basically will not be able to reset with certain length of pre travel. That type of modification works better with a 5.5 connector I suggest you buy some and try it.
When I use a 3.5 pound connector I find in my trigger pull I run into the safety plunger right before I make contact with the connector, if I wanted to use that 3.5 (4.5) I would need to do some work to the birds beak to make it were I make contact with both at the same time and not feel that/grit/ before my brake correct?
I've always heard, "connector bar angle" and so I thought they actually had different angles, but it seems the weight rating of the bar is what determines the break .
I just saw another one of your videos and i realized why you where those, sorry about the stupid question. I just started seeing your videos and hadnt seen you in full person. I do enjoy your videos.
What about slightly bending the dogleg forward(towards muzzle) to increase the return spring tension a lil.. I have seen that long ago n have done it long ago but can not find anything on it now
What kind of spring do you have to use to get the 1911 type trigger feel with the 6lb connector?
Les Potter 4.5 but a bunch of other mods have to be done in unison
thanks for the reply
So basically if your shooting with hard primers you want a 4.5 minus connector because it cocks the striker further back, so you would get more “throw” of the firing pin?
i feel honored to have put the 420th like on this video
Hey Johnny, not sure if you will see this considering this video is 4 years old by this point, but wanted to ask anyways: First, fantastic presentation; thank you for putting this together! You really do make it quite clear! However, I do have two questions: it looks like as you move to the lighter weight connectors, the birds beak/cruciform has to move further back along the X axis to achieve the necessary movement along the Y axis to break. If so, this would result in more compression of the striker spring. Conversely, the heavier weight connectors would result in less compression of the striker spring.
1. Have I interpreted this correctly?
2. Is this change in striker spring compression enough to get light strikes when moving to a heavier connector and should one look to a heavier striker spring to prevent this?
Thanks again!
Not on his triggers but a out of the box glock yes yes it can but with certain combo's it can be done
Thank you
What the best conect for comp. ?
Seems to me - anything that shortens the travel would cock the striker spring less and move closer to light strikes ...
👍👍👍👍👍❤️
Id like to see a video of the different types of 3.5 connectors. personally I hate the ghost, inconsistency is ridiculous. Lonewolf, Zev, TTI.....etc. All 3.5 connectors but all feel different in there own way....thoughts?
RAZORJB
absolutely I'll have to get my hands on a majority of them the only ones I'm used to really seeing are all the different ghosts, Double Diamond, ZEV V4, and OEM. If you could list all the ones you want me to compare.
RAZORJB
oh and Lone wolf too
JOHNNY GLOCKS the persona
thanks. My personal favorite is the LW. Here are the ones I was thinking about and have used. Mind you some of these and others are Glock OEM minus connectors modified or rebranded. Any other connectors or thoughts would be good as well. Think with your knowledge this would be a good video. Thanks
ZEV
Taran Tactical
Double Diamond
Lonewolf
Suarez International
Glock OEM Minus
Ghost (Various 3.5s)
RAZORJ
ok I need to get the TTI and Suarez. Then I can Cross compare with the same spring set up.
why not make a "horn" or a notch on the "bird beak" of the rear transfer bar so that there is a hard wall and crisp break instead of a squish at the end?
how can I get reset like the New York one without the New York one trigger is this possible
Colby C.
the New York one is simply an alternative mechanism in the trigger housing. It really doesn't do a whole bunch for reset. it's designed to give a revolver like pull. Where as the pre travel is free an unencumbered with just a trigger spring the New York one or two function to Give the that free travel actual tension so it feels like a singular pull the whole way back. there's not much of a first stage pump because it's designed to work like the double action of a hammer and seer trigger as opposed to a striker fire.
WOULDNT REVERSING THE PAPER THEN THE DIRECTION OF TRAVEL WOULD BE UNDERSTOOD? I THINK, SORRY ABOUT ALL CAPS KEY IS STUCK.
In other words the easier the pull the longer the pull
There is SO much confusion in the industry and on the internet about Glock connectors. Some say "dot" are 5lb some say 5.5 lb.
Freedom Forged the dot (.) connector is considered from Glock a 5 lb connector the standard is 5.5 and the minus is 4.5 this is because with the stock Glock OEM 5.5# Striker spring the above break weights are achieved with the corresponding connector. However it's all relative when I think of connectors I think in angle degrees the standard 5.5 is 90°the. Is (.)85 and the 4.5 (-) is 80 .
JOHNNY GLOCKS the persona Best explanation I’ve ever heard. Thanks for slicing through the BS.
Are you a Ninja?
Some cats can just make it easy for you.