Thanks for making these videos, man. The closest compressor in price is about double the price of the yong heng. It seemed to good to be true, and there are issues, but after watching these I'm fairly confident that I'm going to be able to get a lot of use out of it as long as I'm careful with it. Mostly thankful about not stripping those threads right out of the box like everyone else, haha. It's working good for me. These helped me make a more informed decision.
I have 4 Chinese compressors, different than the Yong Hen . Mine don't have the outside ss lines on them and run alot cooler than yours does. Still uses water but runs cooler an no lines to burn your arms on. Cooling is done in the large 2nd stage of the pump. Costs around $450.00 each and can be purchased on ALI-EXPRESS. Great little compressors. Made by Tuxing. Don't know why there not on ebay.
I will PM you on GTA later today regarding conversion fittings for high pressure use. I just need to find a block of free time to write up some info for you. In general I would stay clear of fittings advertised as being used to convert threads for "gauges". I found that they are typically for automotive use (think oil gauges) and those are low pressure systems.
Great video. Have you found all the parts for the bleed valve? If so could you paste some links for the parts needed. I looked on Amazon for the Brennan adapter but it comes up as the wrong size. Thanks.
I'm curious where you got the absorbent cotton inserts for your oil water separator? I'm getting ready to purchase one of them, but they seem to just have one or two long ones that fit inside. Did you have to cut the large ones yourself, or did you buy some smaller ones from Amazon or Ebay? If so, can you include the link?
Air Velocity Sport - Sir I was wondering if you can leave your valve on your tank open before starting the compressor and after shutting it down, since you have the one way check valve in line with the filter? That would make it very convenient not to have to worry about the timing of opening and closing the valve. I appreciate your videos and an answer to my question. Thank you
Yes, you are correct. Since I have a one way check valve foster quick disconnect I can open the tank before starting the compressor and close the tank valve after I bleed and shut off the compressor.
Great Video, thanks again. That Digitalwavecorp.com is great news, however in their video they mention the cost of "a few hundred dollars" vs about $1000 for a new cylinder. This may be applicable for a fire station, but for used tanks or $300 new ones from China, it sounds like it is likely too expensive.
Hi, thanks for your video's. It's one the reasons I've bought one. Arrived today. I can noot find the recommended oil overhere. But is the 5 W 40 ok for it? Thx
Hey Mark Congrats. You can use motor or Hydraulic oil but the problem will be with carbon build up on the high pressure piston and the air will smell very bad. I just switched over to SECO Lube 500 Syntheic oil for high pressure breathing air compressors. $60 for a gallon from www.filtertechs.com This oil will last longer and keep the compressor from fouling up which is what happened to my first one. There are other good breathing air compressor oils like Bauer and Nuvair. I can not say for sure yet which is best. should get about 15 fills per gallon which comes to $4 per fill. I change my oil every two or three months of use.
Air Velocity Sport thank you for your very fast answer. At this time I cannot find the oil you are referring on over here (The Netherlands). What is I use the 5W40 and change it after 10 fills of a 6 liter tank. Would I be safe then? Many thanks again
Great video... too bad I was not able to watch the whole thing, but I will later. Having said this, I have a quick question: Something happened today, that scared the sh*t out of me. My tank is at 4100 psi. I would like to get it as full as I can. I guess 4500 psi is max using this compressor. I hooked up the tank with its valve closed. I pre-cooled the compressor. I started the compressor, let it run for about 20 seconds and started to close the bleeder valves. As soon I did close the bleeder valves, the pressure started to rise. I believe it was around 3000 psi when I started to slowly open my tanks valve. That is when I heard a loud BAM and air was leaking out of the "water-filter" (?), you know, the blue piece that has the cotton inside. I turned the compressor off and opened the bleeder valves. I then closed my tanks valve. Looks like I lost 100 - 200 psi. Hard to tell looking at the small gauge on my tank.
Having said this, I believe I know what happened, but I would like to double check with you. I believe the issue was that I opened the tanks valve to soon. The compressor was at around 3000 psi and the tank was at 4100 psi. Is that it? If so, can I avoid this from happening again by simply waiting until the pressure is somewhat the same (between Tank and compressor)? I guess the reason I opened the valve sooner, is the fact that I am not sure what will happen if the compressor runs into a solid stop, meaning the tanks valve is closed and the air that builds up is going no where. Knowing what I know about compressors, they either stop when they are full or they blow off pressure through a safety valve… Thanks. p.s. Would it not be "best" to get a check valve and hook i up in between the tank and the compressor? That way you can just open your tanks valve and soon the pressure builds the air will flow from compressor to tank…
Just got my Tuxing water oil seperator with activated alumina setup. Looks really nice. Only problem is that when filling air guns it now takes twice as long because it has to pressurize Tuxing. I unhooked the Tuxing and filled without it and sure enough it filled much faster without Tuxing. Any idea on fixes for this?
Yeah, there is really no way to reduce the time it takes to fill the volume in the tuxing filter? You feel much more because filling a guns small 200 to 480 cc volume is fast. When filling a 88cu ft tank it really does not matter as much. In my humble opinion, unless it's a really humid hot day I would not use the tuxing filter to fill an airguns small tube/bottle as the compressor really does not run long enough to build up heat and moisture. It would think it takes only 3 minutes to top off a on Airgun bottle of 480cc. Not really enough run time to get hot and build up moisture.
@@AirVelocitySport Here in KY been 90s..very hot humid. I'll not use Tuxing with just filling guns..it seems running pump twice as long is more damaging. Gonna wait til cooler weather to attempt 9 liter SCBA tank fill. My yong heng station is in my hot garage. Ordered a very powerful 12" metal fan to blow on it. Pretty impressed so far except with Tuxing issue. I'm running AW46 like u recommended. R u still using that?
Yes, still using aw#46 hydraulic oil. Some good me about another oil that does not smell as bad as aw46. I too run mine in a hot garage but I use a 5 gallon bucket with a 2 gallon block of ice. I filled my 2 tanks today from 3000 psi to 4100 psi. Temp never went about 50 Felicia. The black small filter holder did get very hot. I opened my good tuxing filter and I found a drop of water on the see closest to the compressor. Otherwise the other side was dry.
@@AirVelocitySport it's good to know that its holding up while filling tanks. I've read quite a bit on GTA about only using it for air guns or it'll burn it up. I was just going to top off tank maybe 3 times a year and the rest just fill guns.
Yes, I still the Yong Heng. I'm on my second one. I will do another update with tip to keep it running ponder and safer. I have been busy with slug development lately. Thanks for your concern and happy Thanksgiving!
Air Velocity Sport ok. What about the damage/slick that would be invariably be deposited (in small quantities) in the tanks and eventually in the valve of the airgun? I see an issue there.
Some guns, (Texan, Texan SS) have said that oil should not harm the gun. Others oil their lead bullets before shooting as well, to help reduce lead residue in the gun.
Hey can't you just use quick diss.cnt.on bottom of cannister ,disconnect it, then use little of tank pressure to clear water from sieve cannister, works for me just hold on to filter when you do it, or you get a rocket.or you can burp tank into short spot between tank fill bleed , close tank then open bleed valve doing same thing.
Hallo Can You adivice me ..is it possible separate oil smell and oil itself somehow from breathing air for scuba diving.. if I decide use that compressor..??
Thanks , I have to search for better filter .. scuba compressors are much more expensive ...but did You check in scuba store your air quality before You had that yellow filter or after?? what you think if I could use two of them for better filtration..?@@AirVelocitySport
This is all way to confusing my crowns been sitting in the case because I can’t get a list of exactly what to buy to charge it’s tank.if anyone is interested my crown is blue with sports match atp66rings a swfa 10x42 scope and 2 magazines and has of course never been fired
Samson 1214 Air Bleeder Valve 1/8" NPTM There NPT THREADS IN 1/8" They make Nice bleeder valves on your air gun but very Expensive >> 28 dollars a valve
Hi I'm from India and only these model available in india So Can u sujjest me best air rifle for hunting - Walther 1250 dominator, Bsa Scorpion 1200 SE, Bsa Scorpion se pcp, Bsa Ultra Se multishot, Benjamin Marauder, Bsa R-10 Mk2 Pcp Air rifle.
That bleeder valve at the bottom of the good water seperator is the bleed off any water that accumulates it the water seperator. I'm currently not using the gold bleeder since I could not find the correct nipple connection. There is a new good water seperator that has a bleeder built in.
wooo! Sir. May I be so bold as to say you are playing with "fire" 4,500 psi this is such a dangerous pressure, it can KILL. I am a retired pipe fitter used to working with such pressures so please take my advice go to a reputable dealer who will help you, be very careful who you buy from. I also have a question why are putting a bleed valve there? as the bleed valve on the compressor will bleed the filter down if it is fitted correctly.
Yes, I dont like fire so I make sure all my fitting are rated at 5000psi working pressure. I'm am well aware of what a rupture can do at high pressure.
If you go with this fitting in the bottom of your molecular sieve tube you can screw directly into your A-B1115 bleed valve (thereby removing a fitting from the stack). www.hydraulichoses.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=9007&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cDaBRBtEiwAsxprXSX5AoG9js6rRJ0w0chLgsZM4259GncmHzbRzXgDJuvgHgGGytdWbBoCPqEQAvD_BwE
Great follow-up information and I think folks that don’t truly understand threads will be assisted by this clarification. Excellent work
Thanks for making these videos, man. The closest compressor in price is about double the price of the yong heng. It seemed to good to be true, and there are issues, but after watching these I'm fairly confident that I'm going to be able to get a lot of use out of it as long as I'm careful with it. Mostly thankful about not stripping those threads right out of the box like everyone else, haha. It's working good for me. These helped me make a more informed decision.
They are awesome and sturdy
And thanks for all the great information!
I have 4 Chinese compressors, different than the Yong Hen . Mine don't have the outside ss lines on them and run alot cooler than yours does. Still uses water but runs cooler an no lines to burn your arms on. Cooling is done in the large 2nd stage of the pump. Costs around $450.00 each and can be purchased on ALI-EXPRESS. Great little compressors. Made by Tuxing. Don't know why there not on ebay.
Electronicdawg thanks for information. I will look into them.
Haven’t seen any new videos in quite some time, I hope all is well on your end!
I will PM you on GTA later today regarding conversion fittings for high pressure use. I just need to find a block of free time to write up some info for you. In general I would stay clear of fittings advertised as being used to convert threads for "gauges". I found that they are typically for automotive use (think oil gauges) and those are low pressure systems.
Did Anyone ever find the correct setup or the Filter? If so could you please Share? Thanks
Great video. Have you found all the parts for the bleed valve? If so could you paste some links for the parts needed.
I looked on Amazon for the Brennan adapter but it comes up as the wrong size. Thanks.
I just cant find a bleed valve, for gods sake...😅
I'm curious where you got the absorbent cotton inserts for your oil water separator? I'm getting ready to purchase one of them, but they seem to just have one or two long ones that fit inside. Did you have to cut the large ones yourself, or did you buy some smaller ones from Amazon or Ebay? If so, can you include the link?
Hi, I am wondering what kind of oil you have been using in your compressor and how it has performed over the last 9 months.
Great Video. Have you thought about using a hose with a Female quick Disconnect? That should work. If you have found the missing link please share.
Air Velocity Sport
- Sir I was wondering if you can leave your valve on your tank open before starting the compressor and after shutting it down, since you have the one way check valve in line with the filter? That would make it very convenient not to have to worry about the timing of opening and closing the valve. I appreciate your videos and an answer to my question. Thank you
Yes, you are correct. Since I have a one way check valve foster quick disconnect I can open the tank before starting the compressor and close the tank valve after I bleed and shut off the compressor.
Great Video, thanks again. That Digitalwavecorp.com is great news, however in their video they mention the cost of "a few hundred dollars" vs about $1000 for a new cylinder. This may be applicable for a fire station, but for used tanks or $300 new ones from China, it sounds like it is likely too expensive.
Yes, I too think it a bit too steep in price for a 15 year old tank to be recertified.
Hi, thanks for your video's. It's one the reasons I've bought one. Arrived today. I can noot find the recommended oil overhere. But is the 5 W 40 ok for it? Thx
Hey Mark Congrats. You can use motor or Hydraulic oil but the problem will be with carbon build up on the high pressure piston and the air will smell very bad. I just switched over to SECO Lube 500 Syntheic oil for high pressure breathing air compressors. $60 for a gallon from www.filtertechs.com This oil will last longer and keep the compressor from fouling up which is what happened to my first one. There are other good breathing air compressor oils like Bauer and Nuvair. I can not say for sure yet which is best. should get about 15 fills per gallon which comes to $4 per fill. I change my oil every two or three months of use.
Air Velocity Sport thank you for your very fast answer. At this time I cannot find the oil you are referring on over here (The Netherlands). What is I use the 5W40 and change it after 10 fills of a 6 liter tank. Would I be safe then? Many thanks again
Whats every single pipe's function on the compressor?
The one on the top running to the bleed valve,
Middle and down.
Thanks!
hello thanks for the video. please what s the name of the aluminium cylinder you used ?
No name. Bought on aliexpress
Where did you get the boot for that carbon tank? I have an air Venturi 74cf and would like to get one.
Try searching for: Faber Blue Steel Tank Boots Tanks
hello Mate,can you give links to that air dryer unit housing,want to upgrade mine too
Can you please provide information on you flow control knob on you scba. Thank You !
No brass is softer than stainless. Ask the seller about the stainless one.
Sorry if you've already answered this question before, but where did you purchase the compressor ?
eBay. But you can find them on Amazon as well good luck.
Great video... too bad I was not able to watch the whole thing, but I will later. Having said this, I have a quick question:
Something happened today, that scared the sh*t out of me. My tank is at 4100 psi. I would like to get it as full as I can. I guess 4500 psi is max using this compressor.
I hooked up the tank with its valve closed.
I pre-cooled the compressor.
I started the compressor, let it run for about 20 seconds and started to close the bleeder valves.
As soon I did close the bleeder valves, the pressure started to rise.
I believe it was around 3000 psi when I started to slowly open my tanks valve.
That is when I heard a loud BAM and air was leaking out of the "water-filter" (?), you know, the blue piece that has the cotton inside.
I turned the compressor off and opened the bleeder valves.
I then closed my tanks valve. Looks like I lost 100 - 200 psi. Hard to tell looking at the small gauge on my tank.
Having said this, I believe I know what happened, but I would like to double check with you. I believe the issue was that I opened the tanks valve to soon. The compressor was at around 3000 psi and the tank was at 4100 psi. Is that it? If so, can I avoid this from happening again by simply waiting until the pressure is somewhat the same (between Tank and compressor)?
I guess the reason I opened the valve sooner, is the fact that I am not sure what will happen if the compressor runs into a solid stop, meaning the tanks valve is closed and the air that builds up is going no where. Knowing what I know about compressors, they either stop when they are full or they blow off pressure through a safety valve…
Thanks.
p.s. Would it not be "best" to get a check valve and hook i up in between the tank and the compressor? That way you can just open your tanks valve and soon the pressure builds the air will flow from compressor to tank…
I have a one way male foster I put in line. That way air only goes one way and they don't collide.
Any hose will burst before that stainless fitting will, so it's good in that respect.
Have you found the proper fitting?
Just got my Tuxing water oil seperator with activated alumina setup. Looks really nice. Only problem is that when filling air guns it now takes twice as long because it has to pressurize Tuxing. I unhooked the Tuxing and filled without it and sure enough it filled much faster without Tuxing. Any idea on fixes for this?
Yeah, there is really no way to reduce the time it takes to fill the volume in the tuxing filter? You feel much more because filling a guns small 200 to 480 cc volume is fast. When filling a 88cu ft tank it really does not matter as much. In my humble opinion, unless it's a really humid hot day I would not use the tuxing filter to fill an airguns small tube/bottle as the compressor really does not run long enough to build up heat and moisture. It would think it takes only 3 minutes to top off a on Airgun bottle of 480cc. Not really enough run time to get hot and build up moisture.
@@AirVelocitySport Here in KY been 90s..very hot humid. I'll not use Tuxing with just filling guns..it seems running pump twice as long is more damaging. Gonna wait til cooler weather to attempt 9 liter SCBA tank fill. My yong heng station is in my hot garage. Ordered a very powerful 12" metal fan to blow on it. Pretty impressed so far except with Tuxing issue. I'm running AW46 like u recommended. R u still using that?
Yes, still using aw#46 hydraulic oil. Some good me about another oil that does not smell as bad as aw46. I too run mine in a hot garage but I use a 5 gallon bucket with a 2 gallon block of ice. I filled my 2 tanks today from 3000 psi to 4100 psi. Temp never went about 50 Felicia. The black small filter holder did get very hot. I opened my good tuxing filter and I found a drop of water on the see closest to the compressor. Otherwise the other side was dry.
@@AirVelocitySport it's good to know that its holding up while filling tanks. I've read quite a bit on GTA about only using it for air guns or it'll burn it up. I was just going to top off tank maybe 3 times a year and the rest just fill guns.
Are you still using the Yong Heng Compressor? Haven't seen any more reviews lately.. As the other guy said, I hope you are doing okay.
Yes, I still the Yong Heng. I'm on my second one. I will do another update with tip to keep it running ponder and safer. I have been busy with slug development lately. Thanks for your concern and happy Thanksgiving!
Air Velocity Sport I just ordered one this evening hopefully it works well. Thanks for all the great information on the compressor!
Air Velocity Sport Thank you for the reply. Your contribution to the PCP Enthusiast is very informative and useful. I really enjoy your videos.
Also what purpose does the 1" PVC have? I purchased a New Warrior Dry Air System by XIN YONG SHI and 1" PVC doesn't fit inside.
Pvc is the body that holds the dessicant.
For keeping the silica away from the aluminum as it makes acid apparently and damages aluminum and there is contraversy on that being true.
Is the oil getting into the air tank safe? Have the similar issue
RazTheRipper yes, not an issue as hydraulic oil is not combustible under high pressure.
Air Velocity Sport ok. What about the damage/slick that would be invariably be deposited (in small quantities) in the tanks and eventually in the valve of the airgun? I see an issue there.
Yes maybe after a few years. But that time you'll have to service the gun and change orings and clean valve anyway. Not enough oil to be an issue.
Some guns, (Texan, Texan SS) have said that oil should not harm the gun. Others oil their lead bullets before shooting as well, to help reduce lead residue in the gun.
Hey can't you just use quick diss.cnt.on bottom of cannister ,disconnect it, then use little of tank pressure to clear water from sieve cannister, works for me just hold on to filter when you do it, or you get a rocket.or you can burp tank into short spot between tank fill bleed , close tank then open bleed valve doing same thing.
Hallo Can You adivice me ..is it possible separate oil smell and oil itself somehow from breathing air for scuba diving.. if I decide use that compressor..??
I don't know for sure but you will need much more than the yellow filter to make this unit make breathable air.
Thanks , I have to search for better filter .. scuba compressors are much more expensive ...but did You check in scuba store your air quality before You had that yellow filter or after?? what you think if I could use two of them for better filtration..?@@AirVelocitySport
that stainles presure is 5000 static plb for hidrolic
This is all way to confusing my crowns been sitting in the case because I can’t get a list of exactly what to buy to charge it’s tank.if anyone is interested my crown is blue with sports match atp66rings a swfa 10x42 scope and 2 magazines and has of course never been fired
Why do you even need the bleed valve? Just connect Tuxon foster to Yong Heng mini filter?
Samson 1214 Air Bleeder Valve 1/8" NPTM There NPT THREADS IN 1/8" They make Nice bleeder valves on your air gun but very Expensive >> 28 dollars a valve
To make it worse, some of the Chinese fittings are M10x1, but tapered, not straight threads.
Best fittinggs website in uk try them , see if they have it ask them if you cant find wha your looking for?
Hi I'm from India and only these model available in india So Can u sujjest me best air rifle for hunting -
Walther 1250 dominator, Bsa Scorpion 1200 SE, Bsa Scorpion se pcp, Bsa Ultra Se multishot, Benjamin Marauder, Bsa R-10 Mk2 Pcp Air rifle.
Why do u need a third bleeder when u have 2 on compressor and one on tank? Seems overkill...
That bleeder valve at the bottom of the good water seperator is the bleed off any water that accumulates it the water seperator. I'm currently not using the gold bleeder since I could not find the correct nipple connection. There is a new good water seperator that has a bleeder built in.
wooo! Sir. May I be so bold as to say you are playing with "fire" 4,500 psi this is such a dangerous pressure, it can KILL. I am a retired pipe fitter used to working with such pressures so please take my advice go to a reputable dealer who will help you, be very careful who you buy from.
I also have a question why are putting a bleed valve there?
as the bleed valve on the compressor will bleed the filter down if it is fitted correctly.
Yes, I dont like fire so I make sure all my fitting are rated at 5000psi working pressure. I'm am well aware of what a rupture can do at high pressure.
mcmaster-carr has what you need. part # 4936K153
Carbon fibre tanks are 15 years lifespan , then need recertifying .
If you go with this fitting in the bottom of your molecular sieve tube you can screw directly into your A-B1115 bleed valve (thereby removing a fitting from the stack). www.hydraulichoses.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=9007&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cDaBRBtEiwAsxprXSX5AoG9js6rRJ0w0chLgsZM4259GncmHzbRzXgDJuvgHgGGytdWbBoCPqEQAvD_BwE
Avoid anything that says it's for gas or oil 1/8 NPT as it's not the same.
Just bang 3 layers of PTFE tape on the threads and you're good!
No!
No brass fitting is stronger than stainless.
Ur screwing this fitting into aluminum, which is definitely weaker than than stainless.