How I prepped my WR250R for a trip to Moab UT
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- čas přidán 21. 10. 2016
- This video is about how I prepared my Yamaha WR250R dual sport for a recent trip to Moab, UT. I am from the East coast where we have nothing but sand and pine trees. My goal was to avoid the most common problems the rocky terrain could cause that would take from the riding time I traveled so far to enjoy.
- Sport
You should have just laid your bike on its side and loosened the gas cap to relieve the pressure.
I'm getting a wr250r from a friend next week, so I'm blessed to benefit from your experience, thank you for sharing
I got the moose skid plate so far so good! great info. thanks
I like your setup. Excellent information explanation. I’m looking at the wr 250r & Xr650l.
Great video!
Awesome video!
I like your skid-plate for the same reason. On my T7 I kept the stock because its there. If ever it gets damaged, I will replace with plastic. Less noise and perfectly sufficient for the kind of riding I do.
Some people will spend another fortune on new or 'better' accessories for when, one day, they will travel around the world :)
Same thing happened to me with the Rotopax. I had to open the cap a little and spill gas on the trail but it was only a little bit and then that let enough pressure out to let me turn the handle.
The volumetric/pressure increase due to temperature is more for gas than fluid. So; ensure the rotopack is full to the brim, that will limit internal pressure change.
Transportation of liquids from boats / helicopters / offshore oil rigs require containers to be full or empty - no vapour space allowed to prevent build-up of pressure.
And yes, if the pressure is still high, bleed some pressure from the cap.
Its nice to see if you took a video during your trip adventure with your wr250
Great video and a nice selection of mods for the area. Well done!
Scott
Nice vid!
Enjoyed the video. A note: You can spray bedliner on the engine side of a metal skid plate to dampen the sound you are worried about. You can also install rubber sheets to the underside of the skid plate as well. Just a thought if you ever decide to go metal. I had a plastic skid plate that when I bottomed out, it cracked and broke apart. No damages to bike. Sure enough. five minutes later, bottomed out again on a ride and that's when the damage occurred to the engine. So, "plastic is better than nothing" may only work for five minutes on your next ride.
I had almost zero confidence in it and rode as if there was no skid plate at all. I will definitely go aluminum next time and use your advice. thanks for the tip !
PLastic is better than metal IMO. I had an acerbis one. Very durable
I love my plastic skid plate on my YZ and Vstrom
Great video and nice attention to all of the details. I go to Moab occasionally and I am always looking for good trails, which ones did you like best?
my absolute favorite was the White Rim Trail. It exposes you to the best of every experience in Moab. ooh and the trail that leads to the Moab Brewery at night too.
I prefer to istall aftermarket 3G tank. Yes, its kind of expensive, but I really would hate that canister behind my back. Otherwise nice video, thanks!
I agree 100% it was annoying and inhibited normal riding posture other than sitting. There is one reason I chose that method, I only needed the extra capacity for that trip. I even removed the rack when I got home because it keeps you from getting your weight over the rear fender in rough areas such as whooped out fire roads. It solved the problem for the trip but certainly not the best long term solution.
The quality plastic skid plates are actually superior, especially in hard hits.
Do you still own the wrr and ride in south jersey, I from outside of millville and ride a wrr,
Just stumbled across this great video. Just curious, what footpegs those are?
they are stock footpegs and springs from a YZ250/450F. Not sure what year though, guessing 2004. The brake side will contact the the brake pedal mount slightly when the peg is fully folded up but I never had issues, it touches lightly.
You need to get the deluxe t-handle which will elevate the fuel can swelling problem. That mount adds a secondary aluminum piece that is stationary as the t-handle is cranked down.
Good idea. That sucker was immovable bare handed. Live and learn !
Hi, I am from PA and see that you have WER suspension, I have had both my CRF's done by them and have been super impressed by them. How do you like your WR250R suspension by WER? I have a Wr250R also, but suspension is stock. Thanks
The suspension is night and day better. Stock the rear end is just a spring in harsh terrain as the compression and rebound circuits do almost nothing. I live in South NJ and we have nothing but deep sand whoops here in the woods. Drew at WER really transformed the bike and I definitely recommend sending it to him . At minimum have him do the rear, the front is a pretty decent setup for a stock 300lb DS bike. I promise dollar for dollar its the single best mod for the wr250r you can do. It will never be as good as your CRFs because the WRR does not have an MX quality shock but it will be far better. I was able to ride it safely in a few local ECEA enduros in the DS class after the WER revalve. Stock, don't even attempt it !
You could have loosened the cap on the rotopack to relieve pressure. Might have lost a tiny bit of fuel, but it would have worked, if you didn't have a wrench.
for a normal person yes, but as anal as I am no. I turned it an extra turn beyond so it wouldn't rattle at all and chaff the rack so the plastic itself expanded too much.
Good video. Thank you for sharing. What year is your bike.
It's a 2008. It's got around 26,000+ miles on it by now.
@@tweakmaster32 nice video. I will try to find your other videos. I just picked up a 2020 that has 2700 miles on it. Really haven’t ridden it yet.
link for the pump please
so when you install new tires you have to spend 200 more dollars for 2 new high pressure tubes?
no, you just cant use tires that were previously mounted with the old type rim lock because they damage the sidewall where the tubliss system creates a seal. You can certainly re-use the tubliss system as long as there is no damage when changing tires.
hi can you please send me the link to buy the bicycle pump..thank you
sure: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UZP2ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you use tubliss for road use too?
Yes, I do. The manufacturer states off road use only, however I have used them for almost 2 years on and off road. If you are used to running the stock WRR setup with no bead locks then you may feel a slight shudder from having one that is part of the tubliss system. It is also heavier than most. It doesn't bother me and was no different than running regular tubes, beadlocks and knobby tires on road.
What tail light upgrade did you get?
it is a DRC Edge tailight. I ordered it here: www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/
salut est ce que la pose du silencieux FMF a demandé une reprogrammation de l'injection ?merci
the FMF slip on did not require a programmer. If I added the header as well ...YES it would. As a note I left my airbox stock. Cutting it out and opening it up would add to the need for the programmer.
Have you ever taken the WR on the freeway?
Yes, I have done a few but not many highway rides. It will need a better seat for any distance over 100 miles that I can tell you!
what size sprockets did u run rear looks like a 45 ?
I was using a 43 since I use the bike often at home on the street as a commuter. I would certainly recommend using a 48 for mostly offroad and truthfully it wouldn't be horrible at 60-65 mph cruising either for short trips.
please say radiator the right way
Lol
ray - dee - ate - er
Nice Tacoma, member on tacomaworld.com?
That's creepy to comment on his Toyota Yaco when he doesn't reference it in the video, I guess it feels stalkerish.
And again and again and again and again and again......Is there an echo in there lmmfao