I've watched your videos several times in prep to do my own bushing replacements and must commend you on how well you've filmed and explained the job process. Thank you.
Put heat on the radius housing for a minute or so after spraying some lubricant. Put a pry bar over your spanner/wrench and it will come right off unless it's really stuck. Use anti seeze on all threads for the next guy that has to remove it down the road, he will love you for it.
Awesome video, James! Thanks for showing the whole process, including cleaning, penetrating fluid, and handy tops! It is much more helpful than the “slick” mechanic videos where everything is loosened before anything is filmed. Thanks!
James-o. Great vid. In case it hasn't been stated elsewhere, there is a later type of radius rod (for Syncro only, if not mistaken) that is threaded into the cast body of the LCA where has been drilled and tapped for it as you show. However these later rods do NOT have an integral hex for loosening. Instead the entire LCA must be removed with the rod as a 'unit'. As I understand it now, even if the inner/lower radius rod nut (adjacent to the bush) is backed off entirely, there is not enough room to unthread the rod from LCA while the LCA is still installed in the vehicle, to allow it to be pulled out of its' mount. In which case - really no need to back off the lower rod nut at all. Just the outer/upper, and no need to measure the distance from the LCA to the inner nut. Correct me if I am wrong...
James, I do need to say a big thank you for all your videos and for taking the time to film them. With easy to follow step by step instructions. Keep up the good work mister. 👍🏻
Thank you for this!! Had to watch it a couple times from the 14:22 - 15:36 to fulling understand where to place the jack. I did all my bushings, tie rods, ball joints and shocks at once. In hindsight, I wish I would have also done my steering bushings. Thanks again
James these suspension videos are great. Inspired me to get started on mine. Loved some of the tips tackling problems. Also realized that I should get other replacement parts on order.
Excellent video with easy to follow step by step guide. I had to get new radius rods too, so the next video on setting the tracking would be great. Thanks
Hi, Well done👍🏻. the later model is more complex to remove, well when I did mention that I have to say you were very lucky that holes were not worn out, that was my issue on my VWT3 Single cab from 1982. I did a full high-end restoration. and are done in summer 2022. I used 6 years. ☮Greetings from Norway🇳🇴 HCS
I am about to do the same thing and I had an idea as i was watching this. The end of the radius rod has a hex head on it. You could put a power driver on it and hold the nut with a spanner wrench to make the nut spin back easier.
James, another brilliant video, I still have these to do on my truck, single cab pickup along with quite a few other bushes, I have to say I've watched a few of your "How To" now and better than any Haynes.
Just finished mine pretty straight forward after watching your video, had to resort to a pipe wrench and extension to get the pax side rod loose the jack method just would not do it. Mounting points pretty clean but wire brushed and treated then painted. Thats one more job off the list.
Great job filming and explaining. Just the right amount of commentary and nice video editing. Powerflex should give you commission because I’ll be using them after watching these vids! What needs upgrading at the rear?
You must be nearly finished yours now, can't be too many left to do, I'm basically buying all the parts from radiator including upgrades to brakes and then when I have everything start the fitting process. I'm making a lot of very basic upgrades to mine, electronic power steering, central locking, heated seats, in fact Mercedes sports seats, it's going to take a while to finish yet but should be a cracking truck.
Sounds brilliant, would love to see what you've done when you've finished. Still plenty of things to do on my list, we had a baby last year so all our time is spent with her at the moment!
Seems like the pre-replacement measurements you took along the length of the rod - and then matched on reassembly - depend on the old and new bushing having exactly the same thickness. Is that a safe assumption with those aftermarket bushings?
According to the workshop manual, it should be 100 Nm (74 ft lb). I tightened mine until the same amount of threads were showing from before I took it off. (Didn't have a torque wrench at the time).
@@JamesAkers I ordered the radius arm Powerflex today. The vagabond goes in for alignment on Weds since I replaced teh power steering rack and it has new tie rod ends that NO way like up to the ones that came off...it finally left the driveway powered by Subaru but like 10 kph due to the wonky front end, it is bipolar steering...seems to go straight and then just pulls to the right...short drive to shop and going to let them do the radius arm bushing (all cracking due to age)... thanks for your Video !
Update: All done. I paid the shop to install the second bushing. He said I had the one in backwards FFS. All good and all aligned. He did not address the broken brake line. I did, and it took 3 evenings since the T is under the coolant, heater, and power steering and fuel lines. Drove it to class to paint and subaru lost power. Plan was to paint by Christmas, then today, EOM, and now next week hope to paint it soon and get flatbed home. New window seals once it gets home.
Red 65A - Used for our Universal exhaust mounts and diesel engine mounts. Yellow 70A - Mainly used for engine mounts, diff mounts and subframe mounts or areas where the bush needs a lot of movement and absorption. Purple 80A - Our most common material. This is used in most areas of the suspension and provides the right mix between performance and compliance. Black 95A - Our hardest material. This is used for our Black Series range or on normal road vehicles where the vehicles suspension demands require us to use this hardness of material i.e. in areas of high load. They've also started a "heritage" range which are black to match original rubber bushes.
I can assure you, I haven't. All these jobs are my first and only time. I was suprised as anyone how easily the nuts moved. I think cleaning the treads really helped along with the penetrating oil.
I've watched your videos several times in prep to do my own bushing replacements and must commend you on how well you've filmed and explained the job process. Thank you.
Ivan Dragos Thanks, really appreciate the feedback. Hope it all goes well when you tackle the job!
These videos about the bushes are amazing! Please keep teaching us how to keep our vans in the good shape they deserve!
Put heat on the radius housing for a minute or so after spraying some lubricant. Put a pry bar over your spanner/wrench and it will come right off unless it's really stuck. Use anti seeze on all threads for the next guy that has to remove it down the road, he will love you for it.
Awesome video, James! Thanks for showing the whole process, including cleaning, penetrating fluid, and handy tops! It is much more helpful than the “slick” mechanic videos where everything is loosened before anything is filmed. Thanks!
Thank you. I get so frustrated with videos that skim over important things so try to show every single step, warts and all!
James-o. Great vid. In case it hasn't been stated elsewhere, there is a later type of radius rod (for Syncro only, if not mistaken) that is threaded into the cast body of the LCA where has been drilled and tapped for it as you show. However these later rods do NOT have an integral hex for loosening. Instead the entire LCA must be removed with the rod as a 'unit'. As I understand it now, even if the inner/lower radius rod nut (adjacent to the bush) is backed off entirely, there is not enough room to unthread the rod from LCA while the LCA is still installed in the vehicle, to allow it to be pulled out of its' mount. In which case - really no need to back off the lower rod nut at all. Just the outer/upper, and no need to measure the distance from the LCA to the inner nut. Correct me if I am wrong...
Many thanks for this my friend! I'm dreading this job slightly less now!
James, I do need to say a big thank you for all your videos and for taking the time to film them. With easy to follow step by step instructions. Keep up the good work mister. 👍🏻
Thanks Shawn. Really appreciate it. 🙂
the Jack placement trick is awesome. I have 1-1/2" lift, so it was way off.
Glad it helped John!
Thank you for this!! Had to watch it a couple times from the 14:22 - 15:36 to fulling understand where to place the jack.
I did all my bushings, tie rods, ball joints and shocks at once. In hindsight, I wish I would have also done my steering bushings. Thanks again
James these suspension videos are great. Inspired me to get started on mine. Loved some of the tips tackling problems. Also realized that I should get other replacement parts on order.
Another excellent video. Concise, and covers all the important points. Big help, thanks!
Excellent video with easy to follow step by step guide. I had to get new radius rods too, so the next video on setting the tracking would be great. Thanks
Hi, Well done👍🏻. the later model is more complex to remove, well when I did mention that I have to say you were very lucky that holes were not worn out, that was my issue on my VWT3 Single cab from 1982. I did a full high-end restoration. and are done in summer 2022. I used 6 years. ☮Greetings from Norway🇳🇴 HCS
perfect video for me now!! your videos about the rear axle helped me alot before
Thanks Eddy. Good to hear they're useful.
Your videos are great. I’m getting ready to upgrade my suspension front bushings. Keep on doing videos appreciated.
great watching your videos
I am about to do the same thing and I had an idea as i was watching this. The end of the radius rod has a hex head on it. You could put a power driver on it and hold the nut with a spanner wrench to make the nut spin back easier.
Very useful video! I will be buying the bushings shortly because I can see that mine are old and worn.
Looking forward to seeing the sway bar and end link video.
James, another brilliant video, I still have these to do on my truck, single cab pickup along with quite a few other bushes, I have to say I've watched a few of your "How To" now and better than any Haynes.
Thanks Justin. Trying to show the whole process, including when things go wrong!
Nice informative video. I think I would have used a flap wheel on that rust to level off any high spots before new bushes on.
Just finished mine pretty straight forward after watching your video, had to resort to a pipe wrench and extension to get the pax side rod loose the jack method just would not do it. Mounting points pretty clean but wire brushed and treated then painted. Thats one more job off the list.
Thanks!
Thank you. Very well done.
Good Job and very detailed video, Thank you for sharing!
Good information all the way made it look straightforward
Not a job I was looking forward to but now 😁😃
Good luck!
Great video again as usual. The best I have seen for help with a T25. Question. Which book are you using with the quality diagrams. Thanks
Great job filming and explaining. Just the right amount of commentary and nice video editing. Powerflex should give you commission because I’ll be using them after watching these vids!
What needs upgrading at the rear?
robbie0810 Cheers Robbie. I've just done the rear trailing arms. Got to find time to edit it all together now!
Thinking the same - powerflex owes you some free parts!
Hello,
Well done, clear and simple, good images.
Cordialement,
Nice job
You must be nearly finished yours now, can't be too many left to do, I'm basically buying all the parts from radiator including upgrades to brakes and then when I have everything start the fitting process. I'm making a lot of very basic upgrades to mine, electronic power steering, central locking, heated seats, in fact Mercedes sports seats, it's going to take a while to finish yet but should be a cracking truck.
Sounds brilliant, would love to see what you've done when you've finished. Still plenty of things to do on my list, we had a baby last year so all our time is spent with her at the moment!
thanks!!
Likewise, would love to have a gander at your truck, if your ever in Shropshire give me a shout!
Cheers Justin. Will do!
Hello,
Great video! Can I have the name of the Manual's book that you are using please?
Great video! Why don't you replace the spare weel? It will be much easier to open the top screw.
Thanks. The spare wheel didn't get in the way when doing any of this so don't really see the benefit of moving it.
Yea thanks for the video. Is there a torque setting on the front or rear but for the radius bushing?
Seems like the pre-replacement measurements you took along the length of the rod - and then matched on reassembly - depend on the old and new bushing having exactly the same thickness. Is that a safe assumption with those aftermarket bushings?
I think it's OK for a general rough alignment but would recommend getting the tracking done afterwards to make sure it's as it should be.
And exactly the same squish factor.
How soon until you tackle spring link bush replacement 👍
Which one is that? I've just done the trailing arms, trying to find time to edit the video together! (it's quite long)
Hi James, great video! Quick question: What kind of book is that? :-) Thanks!
Thank for video! What size tools?
Thank
Very helpful videos but stop calling nuts bolts.
Haha, fair point.
Doing it for the first time and filming it all does funny things to the brain!
Great video ps how tight would you say the final bolt is after you put it all back together . Ta
According to the workshop manual, it should be 100 Nm (74 ft lb). I tightened mine until the same amount of threads were showing from before I took it off. (Didn't have a torque wrench at the time).
Holy crap, your rotors.
All sorted here my friend: czcams.com/video/_YfdXLrDE3U/video.html
@@JamesAkers yeah. I saw it.
I have an 88 Westfalia so your videos give me a good idea of what I am up against soon.
DId they increase vibration or noise significantly inside the van?
Not that I noticed. The old ones were rock hard so doubt they did anything to help reduce vibrations or noise.
Hey James...you've really confused me here. Radius rod? Went to the Bentley and it's called the "Strut bar"
If you search the part number, it's officially called a radius rod. Bentley doing its own thing there.
@@JamesAkers I emailed you on another matter, hoping for a reply. ;-)
The rubbers are very generic and I'm hoping to search locally for a replacement. Would you happen to know the dimensions of the rubbers?
James How did it drive after ? Could you tell any improvement ?
Much more responsive. I'm doing the ball joints next so we'll see what its like after that.
@@JamesAkers I ordered the radius arm Powerflex today. The vagabond goes in for alignment on Weds since I replaced teh power steering rack and it has new tie rod ends that NO way like up to the ones that came off...it finally left the driveway powered by Subaru but like 10 kph due to the wonky front end, it is bipolar steering...seems to go straight and then just pulls to the right...short drive to shop and going to let them do the radius arm bushing (all cracking due to age)... thanks for your Video !
Update: All done. I paid the shop to install the second bushing. He said I had the one in backwards FFS. All good and all aligned. He did not address the broken brake line. I did, and it took 3 evenings since the T is under the coolant, heater, and power steering and fuel lines. Drove it to class to paint and subaru lost power. Plan was to paint by Christmas, then today, EOM, and now next week hope to paint it soon and get flatbed home. New window seals once it gets home.
Was the bus standing
Does anyone know the torque specs on the radius arm bushings?
great video by the way!
It's 100 Nm for both nuts and 180 Nm for the bar into the control arm (if a later model).
@@JamesAkers thank you!
Why different coulors... ? Thes bush...
Red 65A - Used for our Universal exhaust mounts and diesel engine mounts.
Yellow 70A - Mainly used for engine mounts, diff mounts and subframe mounts or areas where the bush needs a lot of movement and absorption.
Purple 80A - Our most common material. This is used in most areas of the suspension and provides the right mix between performance and compliance.
Black 95A - Our hardest material. This is used for our Black Series range or on normal road vehicles where the vehicles suspension demands require us to use this hardness of material i.e. in areas of high load.
They've also started a "heritage" range which are black to match original rubber bushes.
Use more antiseize
You need new discs and brake pads
Κώστας Λεούσης Pads are fine but yes, definitely time for new discs.
James Akers pads are probably contaminated with rust if you drove it
Κώστας Λεούσης Fair point. I'll add it to the list!
James Akers OE cost 60 for a set and from just campers 14.something but they are aftermarket
I'm sure he has had this off and cleaned it put it back on and then taken it off for the camera as they are absolutely glued in
I can assure you, I haven't. All these jobs are my first and only time. I was suprised as anyone how easily the nuts moved. I think cleaning the treads really helped along with the penetrating oil.