How did our RAISED BEDS do? (What we learned)
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- čas přidán 7. 11. 2020
- In this video we talk about how our raised beds have been doing after six months. We also answer your comments and talk about some things that we have learned and fixed along the way. These Hügelkultur raised beds are still kicking!
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A little about us:
In September 2015, our hearts were hijacked with the dream of living on a large farm, with community, growing food, caring for animals and loving on children in need of care and healing. It was a God moment, where our dreams collided with His dreams… a dream so big we could never do it in our own strength and wisdom. Since then, we have been on a journey to see that dream become a reality. This channel documents that journey.
Instagram - / goshenfarmandgardens
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Website - goshenfarmandgardens.org
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My husband and I agree on not using treated Lumber.
Great videos.
Instead of using treated lumber, I used regular pine 2x4.s And, I scorched the bottom and top to keep them from rotting. Scorching with a butane torch is a natural preservative against bugs and water damage. I also used another a 35 5/8 and 18 5/8 at each end as well. Waiting to see! Will update as I go along!
Yakisugi [Shou sugi ban] = traditional Japanese method of wood preservation < en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yakisugi > ; lots of vids out there on how to do this... great idea!
Thanks for the content and context! Super helpful! I used untreated pine boards for my boxes 5 years ago. My boxes were cheap big box damaged pine boards I got for a dollar each (YES ONE DOLLAR A BOARD!) and looked great 2-3 years in. By last year any part with ground or soil contact was starting to rot apart. The reality of untreated soft lumber is you have to be ok with replacing it consistently. Even small space or partial contact will begin to rot in 4-6 years if it is untreated wood. Likely by year six you'll be redoing any portion that is in contact with soil. The boards in contact with the metal in theory should last much longer. That said, I loved my untreated boxes (with ground contact) and got five amazing grow seasons from them. This year I'm building new ones and the old lumber will go inside the base of my new boxes to feed another 5-7 seasons of plants. Love your test and learn videos! Thanks again!
Just stummbled by your channel and wanted to comment on my own experience with untreated lumber used for raised beds. First, let me say your beds are far superior to mine, I used whatever lumber (untreated of course) I had kicking around the property for my first 6 - 8 beds . When I ran short of materials I ended up going to my local lumber store and purchased seconds, I wasn't too fussy on the size and took 1 x 8 .. 1 x 10 .. 1 x 12 .. mostly 8 or 10 feet long I liked the 8 foot long best as they could be cut in half for the ends without any wastage. (Giving me a 4 foot wide bed) Now some of these board might have had a few knot holes in them or perhaps were a bit rough on the ends but for the price they gave them to me I couldn't affort to be too picky. So, some of those beds have been in my garden under production for 8 to 10 years and have required very little maintenance during that time. As I built them I used 2 x 4 off cuts as corner posts to give the beds extra strength. So pretty much the only thing I have had to do on one or two of the beds is replace the corner braces. I don[t have any tin liner so soil is in direct contact with the wood. So if anyone feels they want to build out of untreated lumber and is nervous about the expected life of the beds, my suggestion would be to buy some cheap vegetable oil and give the lumber a quick coat before you assemble them. I once put some fence posts up and wanted to oil the part that was going to be underground, I was pretty short of cash at the time so I asked the local fish and chip restaurant if I could have some of their used oil next time they changed it. Those posts lasted for years and it was the upper part that started to decay while the oiled part undergound remained in fairly good condition. Anyway, just wanted to share my experiences with you. I love your beds by the way and if and when I do start to replace mine I do plan to make mine much taller, not as young as I used to be and that extra height would be a blessing I am sure. Sorry for the long post. Take care and stay safe, Sandie from Ontario Canada.
Thanks for the info Sandie and thanks for watching!
i dont mean to be so off topic but does someone know of a trick to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot my login password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Mustafa Merrick Instablaster ;)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge & experience, extremely useful.
I saw James Prigroni use linseed (flax) oil to coat them.
I remember you talking about kid safety with the metal edges. You should probably cut off those eye pokers you have sticking out from that flat wall panel you added to the last raised bed.
To prevent the horizontal center bow, I used all-thread about center from all directions. Worked like a charm. I have had over the years, several beds rot out, but no center bow. Any future beds I do will have all metal on the inside as you did. In the past I used 4 x 4 on inside corners, but not in the future.
I'm also in hot summers in NE TX, but heat has never been a problem. In fact, okra really thrives. Have had it grow 14/15 feet tall with abundant crop.
I just finished building 3 of your beds. Only made them 10 feet long. Had to cut the width of my metal but got it done. We just love them. Thank you for your design and video. God Bless.
Threaded rod with wing nuts works awesome
If there is a mushroom farm nearby, the mushroom compost is an excellent source of amendment. It is only used once by the mushroom farm so let it sit for a season before mixing in with your soil base or you will burn your plants. In peninsular Florida our soils are mostly sand and everything went right through it including water. We took 2 liter soda bottles, took the tops off them, filled them with soil and water and nestled them in the bottom of the plant bed. Rain water or watering kept them supplied with the water and liquid fertilizers we used, the plants chose how much of their roots they wanted damp and the growth was great. It cut down on the amount of water and fertilizer we had to use on our beds and gave us a good use for the old soda bottles.
Hi there, I built 6 of these (4'x12', 4'x8') thanks to ur original video. I found a way to bend the metal and made rounded corners.
I have 6x6 deck posts so I clamped the metal panel on it with a 2x4 and then just push to bend. Two 12' panels works perfectly for a 4'x8' box. The two panels will meet at the center posts and overlap by 4 inches. Thought I stop by and share what I found. 😸😸.
So far, I've put down hay at the very bottom followed by logs and branches. I plan to use fill dirt to fill in the gaps in the logs. Then another layer of hay finally top soil blend. I only have a shovel. 😆😆🤣
I love your idea, I am not a real fan of straight edges, especially since I use a riding mower to deliver dirt and do maintenance. I am up cycling roofing panel so the corrugation is different. Definitely going to rig up a method using the technique you shared. Do you happen to have any photos of your set up for bending the metal? Thank you.
Davey Nelson. Thanks for this info
Great idea. do you have any photos??
@@markbailey3257 czcams.com/video/aI5cb4bYLGE/video.html
I made a slideshow. Lumber and everything else is so expensive now it cost prohibitive for me to make more.
Wow! Talk about perfect timing! We made our first bed today! Making more tomorrow. We will definitely put the cross boards on to prevent bowing! 👍 Plus we used screws not nails. Thanks for the “how’s it going” follow up! Mine are 26” high. And 8’ x 4 foot. going to add hardware cloth on bottom. So voles don’t get in. South FL here. They like doing that during winter especially. Heard people in gopher area do the same thing! Don’t want no vermin chewing my plant roots. The bed looks awesome! Am so excited! Thanks for the info!! Great vid! 👍👍
Treated wood is no longer toxic. The FDA made them change the chemical make up of the treatment a few years ago. They can now be used safely in and around gardens.
Do you believe them?
I am no expert, but read that they still kill fungi and pests. Beneficial fungi grows in the soil.
The treated of today is resistant ,not rot proof. Yeasts ago you could put the treated lumber on or in the ground and it would not rot. The treated lumber of today will rot, just not as fast as the untreated.
The other question is how much contact is the lumber actually having with the soil. From the looks of it the galvanized panels are the only things in contact. You can do some flashing on the inside corners and there will be zero contact.
@@liahfox5840 - the use of arsenic in treating lumber was banned probably 40-50 years ago. That was what the big deal with using treated lumber near food was, why you never wanted to use treated lumber around gardens or orchards.
Use a cedar runner between bottom board and the ground, I use cedar fencing pickets ripped in half. And then make a beeswax and olive oil wood sealed mixed about 50/50, heated and melted into liquid and applied warm to the pine boards. Works great.
Thanks for the follow up.
Saving up for materials..
Great update !!
I'm so grateful for people sharing their ideas and experiences. I take a little here and a little there add my own like mixing your planting soil. Use what you have available or can afford.
Great point!
Ty for the update 😊
We're getting ready to build these so...thanks for the update! My husbands question about "bow" was answered. :D
An easy way to make your untreated lumber to last longer would be to scorch it with a torch. We do this with fence posts and they last much longer than post that we not scorched.
Awesome video, much appreciated sharing your progress. Your beds look fantastic, after you finish making yours, if you’re not sick of making them you could sell them as a side gig! I have back problems so tall beds are exactly what I’ll be installing as I build my garden, but first my fruit trees.😋
I built 2 of these same beds in April 2020 and grew some fantastic vegetables in them. Thanks so much for making your videos. I used 1/2 mixed compost/top soil and 1/2 sphagnum peat moss with a couple bags of vermiculate per bed as the top 12" of fill. After planting I added 3 inches of cleaned straw to the top of the soil which helped tremendously in moisture retention. To prevent bowing I added a 2x4 inside in the middle between the two center braces about a foot down from the surface of the soil. I also added an additional set of vertical braces in between the center and corners on each long side. Overall they worked great and we're super happy with them.
How much do I plant in urs
25yr carpenter here, much respect, I too only use raw woods in all my project's, unless it's structural underground. There are numerous 100% organic options for sealing your exterior woods to prevent rotting. The age oldest are: Beeswax, Tung oil & Shellac, which are from bug secretions and plant oils. Find these in their rawest purest forms and they would be classified as food grade. Then of course the world is trying to catch up and so there are numerous organic no voc food grade sealants on the market now. A bit pricey, yet, you've got to consider the inevitability to rebuild which is cost + time + labor. At the end of the day I always opt for one of the oldest age sealants. You'll find yourself only reupping on your sealant every few years or longer if applied properly with care, instead of a demo, waste & rebuilding. In my book, a good healthy sealant is always the smarter move. Hey great channel! I really enjoy it! Thanks for doing what you do and all the helpful information you share with us. Cheers 🍻 👏 ✌️
Wow, thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!
Nicely built! Those 2 x 4's will be fine for 4 to 5 years but definitely metal cap the vertical ends like you would a fence post so water wont get in on the cut ends.....they really will break down and split apart faster than you think. However, treated 2 x4's surrounding exterior box wont harm anything either....there is virtually no soil contact anyway. Galvanized sides are economical will work great...heck.. livestock water tubs have been used for decades and decades, heat from the warmed metal on the soil toward fall time helps keep tomatoes and tender plants going longer. You also can put whatever wood sizes you want as "hugle". Cut tree trunks, stumps, limbs, any and all lengths. Mix it up add leaves, bark chips, vegetation, and we even have a kitchen compost bucket full of holes stuck down in the middle to attract the worms. We even throw kitchen compost in on the "hugle" as filler. Shouldnt have to worry about the top 1 x 4 cross wood pieces being in the way but an "L" shaped slide conduit pipe application or metal strapping screwed on works
We build 4 beds this year using standard lumber. We brushed on a couple coats of spar urethane to give it some protection.
As for the bowing prevention, I decided to use Simpson-Tie 16-gauge galvanized strapping at mid-height and well below the soil. Screwed it through the sheet metal and into the vertical wood on each side.
I used linseed oil on mine and you could use that or a cutting board oil to protect your lumber and give it a nice look without compromising the organic quality of your garden!
Great idea and thanks for watching!!
I actually use linseed oil mixed with bees wax or parfin wax heat in old clean pan or or paint can that’s been wash in double
Boiler until it’s all liquid do not allow to smoke Don’t want a fire . Low heat please use caution. Just my experience I’m in no way give u advice ty
Thanks for this update video on what you've learned. Those braces are a good addition. As I watched your first video in this series, I was thinking of cedar instead of stud lumber, but that would be $$$. Then I thought that while that nail gun makes assembly super quick, maybe using construction screws might be better, so one could possibly replace rotten sections when needed. I don't recall if you mentioned a total price for building each? I like what several other commenters have mentioned about the Japanese method of charring the wood, and also painting them with linseed oil. Happy Hügelkulturing!
you can avoid some of that bowing issue by putting you metal vertical instead of horizontal.
I used untreated lumber to build beds back in 2009 and they have lasted and I could probably get another year out of them but hope to replace this year. I love your videos and excited to build these.
I making raise beds and what I did was dig up the topsoil in the area where was puttting my beds and replace what I took out with sand so i got 4 truck loads of good top soil and bought 4 loads of sand for $200
I built mine 4x8 and have the frames set on patio block to keep them off the soil. I try to level out the patio block the best I can before I put the raised bed on it. No bowing and I've been using them for 5 years. I filled the bottom half with logs and woodchips and the top half in straight compost, and then mulched with more wood chips. So, yeah, very similar setup. Tall beds for short plants and short beds for tall plants. I need more fire rings for my tomatoes.
High quality soil grows high quality plants! Nice viddy!
You got that right my friend!
To save on rot, brush the wood down with linseed oil which is safe for food use.
Thank you for the video! I thought I had an original idea of doing something like this to keep dogs and minipig out of my garden on my channel. I got some free used metal, but I have to buy the lumber. This video was really informative. I liked you covered the bowing aspect of it. That is a concern of mine. I will take your advice and do supports in the middle.
Have you guys thought about raising rabbits, too? It's simple animal husbandry for the younger kids, and is another demonstration to them of where their food comes from (ie not just shrink-wrapped from the grocery). Rabbit manure doesn't have to be seasoned before it can be added to your garden. All other manure needs to be aged/seasoned. Being in central MO, you should be able to breed 6 litters per year per doe. One buck and 6 does should yield you about 1000 lbs of fresh rabbit meat per year. That's a pretty good supplement.
Agree with everything you said. I built this and have some bowing, same soil issues. I still need to add the T posts and cattle fence for beans and other climbers. Thanks again for the idea in your first video. Overall, I'm very happy with your design
Awesome great job Eric and thanks for watching!
You can use linseed oil, or char the wood. I do both.
I think that’s what I’ll do too! Am building them now.
I used pressured treated wood and set them up on cement blocks and lined the inside with a thick plastic liner, No compost is touching the pressure treated wood. and i put a 1/2 inch mesh fence to the bottom for animal infiltration. mine are in a fenced in top with a door
Thanks for sharing your bed design. We built two beds and like you some mixed results. We tried green beans, zucchini, and sweet potatoes. I’m thanking the heat loving crops will do better in the beds. With sweet potatoes doing the best. Sweet potatoes did a great job of shading-the ground so less water. Peppers may do good if they don’t catch to much wind. Looking forward to the wood breaking down and helping with the water needs! Oh I think a bale of peat moss in each bed will help too! Thanks again!
It’s funny I cut out part of the video where I talk about how well our sweet potatoes did. Ground cover is crucial. Thanks for watching!
Great update, looking forward to the next one.
I do see a future need for a middle brace on my 12' beds. I was actually thing about using the metal strapping with holes that is used for hanging plumbing or electrical conduit under the house. Also could you not use pure tung oil on the top edge on the corners or even the whole bed to add a bit of protection against rot? I did put down the greenhouse grade weed barrier under 2 of the 3 beds and I am working it around the bottom of the first bed to keep weeds/grass from growing and it makes a trip-free walking surface and nowhere for "critters" to hide. We were lucky to find organic dairy farm compost for our beds so it really held moisture and even with the unusual ab=mount of rain, it also drained well. The bales of pine shavings used for bedding works great for mulch and breast down faster the rough wood chips. I buy the finest I can get not the big flakes. Also a new subcripber.
SHOU SUGI BAN
I agree with not using treated lumber. I do not use it anywhere at all, as I have to think about the bees and birds feeding off of the plants I put in specifically for them, mostly in the flower beds. However, I did correspond with a fellow who is an expert in shou sugi ban, which is an ancient Japanese technique of preserving wood by thoroughly charring the surface. It dramatically increases the lifespan of wood, in terms of rot and somewhat less resistance to insect damage, and, ironically, fire. Wood siding on a house can last 80 to 120 years using this technique. I described my plans for raised beds (2 foot high by 4 foot wide by 12 foot long) and he said if I used the shou sugi ban technique, the wood would last at least 30 years. I made one bed about 5 years ago using cedar, but not using the shou sugi ban treatment, and it was rotting at the base within 5 years. While cedar is best, any softwood can be shou sugi banned, so there is a financial saving that helps compensate me for the extra time it takes me to char it. I did not think to ask him if using the propane burner left any chemical residue behind. I would like to know if people who have used this technique have been happy with it, and does anyone know of drawbacks to it.
I was under the impression that hurgelkulter used logs in the base to retain moisture in an attempt to balance the watering. I can see having to water more frequently if there is a drought.
Look into using Shade Cloth. I live in North Central Louisiana. I put white row cover over our Tomatoes. They never wilted down , During the heat of the day all summer.
I’ve been wanting to get shade cloth over the raised beds. I have some in the greenhouse because my tomatoes were roasting in there. Thanks for watching!
I used rough cut lumber. Treated all the wood with Seal It Green XTREME TOTAL WOOD sealer. Its a plant based sealer that's safe for your vegetables and binds with the actual fibers of the wood to give it water and sun protection.....seems to work very well. Unfortunately with the wood being rough cut, you go through quite a bit (about a gallon and a half) because it soaks in. The sealer is roughly $90 a gallon.
As for bowing, I haven't noticed any yet, but I built a cage around it about 48 inches high with a swing gate on each opposite end to keep the deer out, so with that tied on to the sides, its much heftier and sturdy in my opinion. Wish I could post a picture of it.
I used a good quality garden mix (soil/compost mix) that was $39 a yard from a local farmer.....was a great dirt to use. Almost time to make a batch of compost tea, but everything is growing great. I will say that when you put the soil in it, make sure you water it very very heavily.....its dry and will drink a lot of water to make it a viable growing situation.
Built two total....have orders for four from coworkers because they came out so nice.
Hi there, I have just seen your video and admire the work that you’ve done it looks very attractive. May I make a couple of suggestions; Rather than use wood to tie the sides together, what about during construction feeding wires through at 3 foot spacings top, middle and bottom, and then fasten them through the metal with toggles on the outside. This doesn’t need to be heavy duty as wire is very strong in tension. That should take up a lot less space and also should be rot proof. You could, if you wanted thread them through A piece of plastic pipe so that you knew when you were digging down through the soil where they were, you could also use rot proof rope or maybe even very tough fishing line. The other suggestion is relating to safety. At the start if the video, you are standing next to an upright wire mesh. May I suggest you either cut the ends off or bend the exposed ends downwards in order to minimise the risk of injury. Carry on the good work, kind regards, Bernie W. From across the Pond.
I would consider using Cedar boards. Pretty rot resistant wood.
If you are worried about rotting 2 x 4's in design, you can use cedar, hopefully rough cut because its more expensive
USE linseed oil to treat your wood that is in contact with the floor
No chemical and will make it last a considerable amount of time longer (you can also use BETTER wood like redwood, teak as examples these are wood that humanity has been using for thousands of years in contact with the ground and the elements successfully!!)
My untreated wood lasted over twelve years.
my experience with this brand/type of steel is it rusts out within 3 years. Will be interesting to see how these fair against the Birdies beds.
For those that wish to treat their lumber, they can use Tung Oil. It is considered food safe, is natural, and is extremely easy to apply. It has good water resistance and is longer lasting than linseed or walnut oils. With 2-3 coats, it can add to the longevity of your planter boxes.
I was wondering if that would work. Thanks for the tip!
Yes thanks!!
I am wondering if you have any problems with rodents coming up from the bottom, borrowing in under the edge and up inside the beds. I have regular wood beds on the ground now and the chipmunks destroyed so many of my plants last year burrowing up from underneath. I want to build new higher boxes as you have done but wondering if I need hardware cloth at the base. thanks for the great videos and detailed build instructions.
Janet
New treated lumber has less arsenic and more copper as a preservative. However copper (treated lumber) and steel (metal roofing and nails) are dissimilar metals and will produce galvanic reaction, which is better known as rust. Not mixing the two is likely a good idea. Douglas fir tends to last longer than white wood. It can be "treated" by charring and oiling the lumber prior to assembly (see millions of CZcams videos on this process).
You could use the shou sugi ban method to help protect the lumber from rot.
Burn a cypress...
End grain wicks, so why not prime at least the ends of the boards to extend longevity? I realize that priming uses something that may itself be suspect, though leaching anything significant especially with no direct contact is likely the least of your worries. Using galvanized aluminum probably of much greater concern...
charr the wood to slow the rotting process
that's an awesome idea.....i've seen that; it's japanese or something.
Have fun charring 1x3 and 1x4 without weakening wood
I use banana logs, from my garden, in order to contain the mulch and compost
Love the update. Have a question. I thought the purpose of the lower foot of the bed was to be used like a compost pile. That each year you would be able to mix it and bring some of the bottom to the top. Like to hear what your thoughts are. Thanks
Hugelkultur is just piling stuff in, covering it in soil, and letting it decompose naturally over time. Self Sufficient Me did a video where he took one apart to show what it looked like inside after a few years, with all the buggies & fungi and such. But no, you're not supposed to turn it.
Given how long you have had the raised garden beds now, how are they holding up and would you change anything?
Can you use water seal on the wood when you put them together?
I am going to use your design but use 1/8 aircraft cable in a loop to hold the center together. Drill a hole in the center board towards the top and bottom of the bed. Basically make a loop though the bed before filling to hold the center together. A person using Hugelkultur would have to be carful not to mash the cable and draw the bed center to together with a chunk of wood when filling. The cable would help save a few inches of bed space. Now I will be using AC2 treated wood on my beds but as you say to each their own. Just wondering if you thought of a latex paint or stain? Thank you for sharing
this is the way old grain bin buildings were held together to keep walls from bowing out under weight of the grain
it was what i was thinking when he showed the bowing
are there any concerns with the zinc panels leaching to the soil?
I didn't use pressure treated lumber either and it rotted in three years
All thread about 4.5' long would also keep the beds from bowing.
How far apart do you have the beds from each other?
with price of lumber will do something similar, just going to build wood support like traditional wall with 2x4 on edge so less chance to bow and a sitting edge across top like a 2x6.. if I had asked buds late last fall they could have cut me up lumber on their saw mill.. May is earliest they likely fire it back up as that is when ground is firm enough to use equipment on up north if no late storms.. I may hold out and use a few trees here for them to cut up... converting my fenced in garden to raised, like the trellis cattle panels I was planning on same.. then going to trellis fruit trees on the current fenced n-s sides.. like to see how they are holding up 5-10 years from now, how long any bed should last before replacing...
Right now 2x6 over a 2x4 is only few bucks difference here if Menards bought... So may just go all 2x6 here on edge, maybe a shelf board up on a side or end.. which would cost me about 200 a pop with tin and hardware.. I need 8.. ouch... might wait for the mill and just use bags this summer...
I’m about to build a couple of these beds. Your videos are super helpful. You mentioned in this video how it’s important to install some kind of watering system. Initially I thought I would just use a good quality soaker hose. Now I’m wondering if it’s such a great idea. What do you know about soaker hoses breaking down and contaminating the soil with toxic chemicals? What would be your top recommendation about how to go about watering these beds?
Hey thanks for the kind words! We actually have a video on different irrigation methods for these beds. If I were to choose one from experience it would be drip tape. Toro sells a couple different spacings on Amazon.
@@GoshenFarmandGardens Thanks so much for your prompt reply - very kind. I have one more question . . . The current beds I’m using are at least 10 years old. They’re only 8 inches high and I’ve had little success growing anything in them. One huge problem I have with these beds is that there are four very tall cottonwood trees that are about 75 feet away from them. I live in New Mexico where its a super dry climate. The cottonwood roots are extremely aggressive and constantly invade the raised beds to the point that each year I have to do a lot of chopping and cutting just to turn the soil over. So - with these new, taller beds, I wonder if the base filler of branches, wood chips, compost and leaves will deter the cottonwood roots from filling my new beds. Does anything come to mind as to how I might mitigate the issue?
If you would have cut the metal sheet across and placed the corrugated pieces overlapping and upward direction, ( like the guy did it at homesteadonomics) the bulging might have not occurred. Just a taught
I have to ask, but why didn't you just bend the metal 90°?
That way you would be able to avoid cutting it. you could make some small square growbeds that way. just use rivets/bolts/weld; whatever works.
I know some people make a bending jig out of wood to make curve corrugated sheets. you could avoid the wood all together
Just my 2 cents of the wood root. I've built 11 years ago, some cages for my quails to have them move around in the grass and be protected from predators. These cages were done with regular 2x2 and have been outside in the grass for 11 years without problem. I am still using them this summer and they are still OK, not perfect but usable. Fear not, you should be good for 10 years without problems. Good decision to never bring treated wood close to your gardens.
I hope you don’t get any moles or voles living between the logs I the bottom of those planters like I did. They ate the carrots potatoes beets. Pulled up the vegetables and they where eaten. If you like keeping things natural use:
Yakisugi or shou sugi ban, method to preserve any type of wood
I’m putting hardware cloth on bottom of mine for that reason. We are now in processing of building them. Did first one today. 🤗
Yep I've been wondering if treated wood would be bad too
with modern chemicals its safe the old stuff definatly had arsenic so its its questionable when the wood was made (reclaimed wood) do not use it, new pressure treated is ACQ (alkaline copper Quaternary). of note the newer stuff does nto last as long as the older pressure treated stuff but lasts longer than untreated by quite a bit.
A few suggestions:
- when cheap boards become available a top rail will protect from that metal edge and give you a place to sit
- you need to amend (compost, manure , etc) the soil every year and a little between crops.
- chopped leaves can have many purposes in your raised beds.
- site soil ( as you had grown in prevously) has many advantages and can help fill up that top growing 12 inches of soil
I wouldn't think that PT would matter since they boards aren't in contact with the soil...
Aren't the fence posts treated? 4:20
You look like David Wallace!
Lol
If you paint the wood with linseed oil, it will last years.
Can i use a soft wood like pine? i have an abundance of it on my property
That’s what we used
@@GoshenFarmandGardens excellent. Thank you for the response.
I've had mine for about 8 years and they are no worse for wear. They're built just like you worse and I absolutely love them. The only downfall I see is that you do have to keep adding soil
Awesome Jodi! Yeah we figured we would have to add a bit of soil every year. Thanks for watching!
Compost needs to be added yearly anyway
You have to keep feeding your soil to replace the food you're taking out. You can grow a load of green manure crop and build up the soil that way, but it's going to cut into your vegetable growing capacity if you do. Better to bring in manure and spent bedding instead.
I doubt you will see this, but can you wax the lumber instead of using treated lumber to help protect the wood.
Absolutely, there are many comments on the original video of people doing just that. Boiled linseed oil, etc. Thanks for dropping in!
For appearance reasons, is there any negative to painting the shiny metal outsides an earth tone color so they arent as noticeable in the yard?
Boy, I'd trim that cattle panel edge end off of the upright trellis. Kinda dangerous.
yeah. I saw that finally and I was like 'yeah, I'm clumsy. if that was me, I'd poke myself constantly' - at the least, take a pair of pliers and give each one of those a bit of a twist into a spiral or some kind of decorative shape, but trimming them flush would probably be the best idea.
6 months really isn't an update. I'd love an update in 5 yrs.
Is all corrugated steel safe for an organic garden? any type you need to stay away from? Thank you in advance!
I was under the impression that galvanized metal, which I am assuming he has used, does have chemicals that could be toxic, as welding it can cause toxic fumes. I would think that being in contact with soil and moisture would release the same chemicals, though more slowly.
Those are steel
Mine didn't bow because I put a threaded rod through the middle support in a piece of PVC with stainless nuts and washers, and my caps were 2x6 rails. \Nothing bowed.not going to.
Real Milk Paint sell natural products such as tong oil.
I’ll check it out that’s for the suggestion!
Pound stakes and screw in
No chemicals and you can reinforce from outside frame
*Two yr Bed Update video is posted*
Check it Out
Why not just level them in the first place
The termites will eat them.
Never u se treated lumber
you need simpson straps at the bottom. very cheap
Used motor oil mixed with diesel fuel. Boom! Problem solved.
sand and clay does not make for top notch top soil.