Generation Dry - the movie -
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- čas přidán 22. 12. 2018
- Versions [FR] / [EN] / [IT]
Come with us to discover what is dry-tooling through world class athletes and astonishing routes all over the Alps, including an historical route in the North Face of the Drus.
It is a fact that our winters are warmer. Therefore it is harder and harder to get right conditions for ice-climbing. Fortunately, man adapts to his environment and makes progress: this is how dry-tooling was born. This movie will make you discover this discipline: its history, its evolution and the current practice. You will also see how much excitement dry tooling can bring. Dry-tooling now allows to free-climb some routes which were impossible to climb without aid in the past.
To make this documentary worth it, we have spent two intense years of filming. From Chamonix to Italy, but also in Grenoble and in so many other places… we traveled a lot. We were looking for the most astonishing routes, awesome landscapes. Even though you may not be a climber, we wanted to make a film that you will enjoy watching.
In fact, this movie is not just about dry-tooling, but it also aims at showing many dimensions of mountains, through the multiple aspects of current alpine winter mountaineering. It is the history of the evolution of the alpine practice through dry-tooling.
Directed by Pierre Chauffour (Ubac Media)
Concept and support by Gaetan Raymond
With :
Stéphane Husson
François Damilano
Jeff Mercier
Fred Degoulet
Tom Ballard
Gaetan Raymond - Sport
First, great documentary!
Second, I saw a lot of negative comments about hole drilling but I'm sure many climbers go on fully sanitized cliffs without any afterthoughts. Most routes on major european cliffs are cleaned, that is that we take off pieces of unstable rock out of it. We modify cliffs as little as we can but still do it. Drilling holes on unclimbable cliffs just seems like a good idea to train for harder mixed routes. Guys, it's not because you climb a cliff without any artificiality that you are preserving the environment. Drills do not pose a greater threat to the environment that bolts do. I just don't see it as an argument.
I think it's more about the ethics of it. Drilling bolts into a sport climb is for safety, to prevent injury and death from a fall. Same with removing loose holds that could cause a serious hazard. I see no problem with that, as they are safety measures for the greater good.
Drilling holes in a dry tool route is only to make it easier. It reminds me of back in the day when people would chip holds on sport routes because it was too hard. As it turns out, climbers have gotten stronger, techniques have improved, and routes previously thought to be "impossible" are considered moderate difficulties nowadays.
Climbing ethics have changed a lot since those times and now everywhere in the world it is generally considered poor ethics to modify the rock with the goal of making it easier.
It is pretty shortsighted to think that future generations of dry toolers will not surpass the current generation. I stand by the opinion that it is still poor ethics to drill holes in the rock to bring the rock down to our current level.
@@AustinCooperdrytooling is only done on crap rock that is too friable for rock climbing. It doesn't matter if you "damage" it when it's damaged by every freeze thaw cycle each winter. Bolts make it climbable, so do drilled holds. Likewise all climbing damages rocks and holes get polished or broken by hands. It's more severe with tools but it's already decomposing rock, not Yosemite granite. This is one way to make these otherwise crap formations climbable.
The ethics of whether drilling bolts at all for climbing is ok is a separate issue. But I don't see manufactured holds for dt any worse than drilling bolts for sport routes. You are scarring the rock either way with chalk, hands, feet.
I love the classical background music!
Eh vraiment bon ce petit documentaire ! Bravo et merci :)
merci
Me encanta ver estos vídeos
Beautiful movie 😮
Naprawdę fajny film. Szalomik.
Buena pelicula documental sobre el Dry Tooling.
👌💪
Gracias!
Félicitations pour ce film, Pierre, très chouette !
Merci !
4:00 awesome blossom :)
Merci pour ce superbe documentaire!
Une pense pour Stéphane dont il fait bon d’entendre la voix.
Merci.
Il nous manque énormément, ce film lui est dédié.
E-Logic.
Gran ruta.
Si !!
Hi All, is there any guidance for develop some route for practice dry-tooling ?Thanks
See the episode about cliffs
Bravo Pierre ! Superbes images ! Un peu plus de Jeff Mercier aurait été top !
Difficile de tout montrer en 26 min, on a aussi tourné avec Robert Jasper mais pas pu l'intégrer dans le film...
hi guys really nice video :))
Can you help me which song starts at 3:26 ?
home made ;-)
@@drytooling it is really cool i hope you release on spotify/itunes
It looks like some of the small holes that just the tip of the tool fits in were drilled and not natural. Hope that’s not the case.
In dry-tooling in some cliffs, holds are manufactured
@@drytooling I'll go there and drill some more holes.. or even install a steel cable so everyone can enjoy "the extreme"
@@hanshans1542 no you won't
I'd give you 10 thumbs-up if I could. Great movie!!!!
Thanks!
Where can I find more information about the "Canin" brand rotary hammer cover (18:19)? Thanks
Canin is a french, local made climbing shoes brand(Grenoble). The cover for the rotary hammer was made in the Canin workshop...
Exactly,
They made it for me because when I'm bolting from the bottom, I pull my drill with a cord and it avoids scratches and bumps on it while hauling it.
Gaetan Raymond.
hello
17:56 I don't think that's how you place a cam.
Aid climbing 😆
I feel like the ethic of drilling for dry tooling is different... but I don't think that makes it right. We already do enough damage by bolting lines but the thing is, those bolts are used by so many people that most have accepted the damage. I feel like both bolting and drilling is so redundant - just aid climb it at that rate. Bolting sport routes is about safety this is not. Saying "it's unclimbable so we had to" is kinda lame since it shows that you've prioritized your experience of the rock more than the rock itself. I know you'll just rationalize doing it as "it's our dry tooling culture" but that doesn't mean it will/should be accepted.
Reminds me of this issue: rockandice.com/climbing-news/open-letter-chipping-and-manufacturing-climbs-in-ten-sleep-canyon-needs-to-stop/
Especially since you talk about climate change but then proceed to drill into rock.
Please look at the episode about cliffs, you will understand.
generation aid
09:00-11:00:
Drilling holes in this nice peace of rock... what a crime!
Can't give you thumbs up.
The rock is unclimbable, too loose and too smooth. So they drilled for a beginners route.
not an excuse.
and here they doesn't show when they add spray paint with color code for drilled hole...
2:05😶
2:05 what the literal fuck
yea you probably shouldnt drill holes for your tools... just saying.
The rock is unclimbable, too loose and too smooth. So they drilled for a beginners route.
@@drytooling if the rock is unclimbable then don't climb it, or get better until such a time that you can actually climb it.
not cool.
I'll go there and drill some more holes.. or even install a steel cable so everyone can enjoy "the extreme"
Manufacturing routes is uncool to me. Whether the holds you are making are for your hands, or for ice tools it is still not cool. Carving the stone for pitches on end is an abomination.
The rock is unclimbable, too loose and too smooth. So they drilled for a beginners route.
@@drytooling Laaaaame!!!!! Why not just practice indoors then? Or find a different wall? Or just not set shitty routes. Poor form guys.
Dry tooling is a relatively new modality. Another variety of climbing and mountain climbing. I think that the route planners ...
They do a good job. Thanks for those magical and fun routes. And if it is a good climb then it is good.
respecting the mountain there is room for all the activities that we imagine. That's the beauty of this sport
Mountain climbing is just an excuse for traps to wear brightly colored clothing
I can't believe you actually show video of yourselves drilling holes in the wall just for your tools! Wtf guys? Can't handle what the wall has to offer? Maybe grow a pair or find another wall. I hope you don't come around here, you won't be welcomed. Please do everybody a favor and just stay indoors until you can actually climb the route properly. Thumbs down.
Please see the episode about cliffs to understand.
Stopped after the mention of global warming. Bah. Weak.
Mike Aragon you're dumb and denying scientific fact if you don't think global warming is happening.