Thanks for the video; it was a great help to see it done in person rather than from a manual! I noticed, however, when putting mine back together, that the metal tab holding the pads in on the front and slots under the pin has a directional arrow indicating the direction of the wheel. Yours was correct when removed, but when refitted, it was the other way around.
Oh I didn’t know that. I will check and swap when I get a moment. Of course it makes no difference since this spring clip is designed to work - and does work - in either direction.
It's really refreshing to see someone changing the rear pads the easy/quick way! Other people are shown removing the caliper and, even the rear wheel. I hope more people watch this and, learn that there is ALWAYS an easy way to do jobs. Well done mate 👍.
Keith, thank you for the kind words. It’s feedback like this that keeps me encouraged to put out videos which hopefully can assist others in working on their bikes themselves. 👍
Thank you very much. Those are the very same calipers as the same age R1200GS, so you might change the video title to attract more viewers, as yours is one of the best I've seen on the subject.
Thanks for the wonderful comment. I should add some tags mentioning the GS and also amend the Description. I never thought of mentioning the GS even though I am very aware of the similarities between the two.
Like how you remove and install the pads with the callipers in place. Good to see you cleaning up the callipers, I always clean mine with soap and water with a tooth brush.during a tire change as you need to remove them to get the wheel out. The uneven wear on the pads can be caused by a sticking pistons. Great quality with your new equipment.
Alan, You have a keen eye. I had purchased an RS3 for the front to match the rear tire but it came flawed from Revzilla - kinked beads. Only discovered that at the dealership where I went to have it installed. Had to buy the Michelin tire which was the only one they had for that type and size.
Thanks for the video GG, useful resource when the time comes to change my pads, nice to see how everything fits together. I used your wheel removal/refit videos at the weekend when I switched tyres.
Thanx again just completed rear break pads replacement. They just hit the metal and slight scraped the disc Just in time . I didn't get any warning light thought these had one? I used another anti seize product it was silver looking should be ok.
I was not aware of any warning light, and since there is no wired sensor anywhere on the caliper I am not surprised. Good idea to keep an eye on this from time to time and since it does not wear down fast it is easy to stay on top of it. If you prefer, you can always change it out before it is down to the wear limit. Pads are not that expensive, and it is much easier to change out pads alone than pads and disc(s).
@@GrumpyGoat I guess there isn't any. With all that technology no warning light? lol It hit metal and only slightly damaged the 1/'2 inch of the outer disc I let it go don't need to spend all that money it will just wear the pads a little bit faster I;m watching now THANX fo reply. We will talk again frt pads about 1/2 gone with 50 k miles I don't use brakes much living in country lol
After you put new pads on, is it normal for there to be some resistance on the wheel? The wheel is not free spinning, the new pads are tight up against them?
In my experience, wheels should be partially free spinning. What I mean is, there may be some small catch points where there is rubbing off the dish with the pads but other than that, it should spin freely. This is because there is no spring to pull the pads away from the disk after brakes are applied. They just move back slightly as the hydraulic pressure is released. With new pads, after the brakes have been pumped back up, the behavior should be almost the same ... possibly catching slightly more but it should spin. If this is not the case for you you may need a brake service.
@@GrumpyGoat what about the right side brake pad rear where there is no piston how is the thicker pad put in? I get my pads Jan4 th How do you make room for the thicker pad? Sorry if that's a dumb question lol
@@GrumpyGoat thank you for answering me! I love my BMW's I have an 89 K 100 RS and a 82 R 100 RS altos had many BMW's, now retired and need to save money !!
@@donnlarossa9173 Not a dumb question, especially if you’ve not done it before. 🙂 When you push the pistons on one side in, you will have enough room for the extra pad material. Don’t forget, the new pads material is only slightly thicker than the existing pads, and you are pulling two worn pads out. So all you have to do is push the pistons in a little. Just make sure you *don’t* push them in too much! They should me *at most* flush with the calliper. Don’t worry, the new pads when installed will fit over the disc with room to spare. It’s not like the disc is so big that you have to fit the assembly over the disc at an angle (like at the front).
Thanks for the video; it was a great help to see it done in person rather than from a manual!
I noticed, however, when putting mine back together, that the metal tab holding the pads in on the front and slots under the pin has a directional arrow indicating the direction of the wheel. Yours was correct when removed, but when refitted, it was the other way around.
Oh I didn’t know that. I will check and swap when I get a moment. Of course it makes no difference since this spring clip is designed to work - and does work - in either direction.
Thanks so much for this tutorial! I’ve never changed pads on any bike before, always nervous working on any Beemer, this vid made it a snap. Thanks!
You are most welcome. Glad to have helped. 🙂
It's really refreshing to see someone changing the rear pads the easy/quick way! Other people are shown removing the caliper and, even the rear wheel. I hope more people watch this and, learn that there is ALWAYS an easy way to do jobs. Well done mate 👍.
Keith, thank you for the kind words. It’s feedback like this that keeps me encouraged to put out videos which hopefully can assist others in working on their bikes themselves. 👍
Thank you very much. Those are the very same calipers as the same age R1200GS, so you might change the video title to attract more viewers, as yours is one of the best I've seen on the subject.
Thanks for the wonderful comment. I should add some tags mentioning the GS and also amend the Description. I never thought of mentioning the GS even though I am very aware of the similarities between the two.
Like how you remove and install the pads with the callipers in place.
Good to see you cleaning up the callipers, I always clean mine with soap and water with a tooth brush.during a tire change as you need to remove them to get the wheel out. The uneven wear on the pads can be caused by a sticking pistons. Great quality with your new equipment.
Very simple job. Did the same on my 1200 last year.
Notice that you have a Dunlop RS3 on back and a new Michelin Road5 on front!
Alan, You have a keen eye. I had purchased an RS3 for the front to match the rear tire but it came flawed from Revzilla - kinked beads. Only discovered that at the dealership where I went to have it installed. Had to buy the Michelin tire which was the only one they had for that type and size.
Thanks!! That will make the job a lot easier. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the video GG, useful resource when the time comes to change my pads, nice to see how everything fits together. I used your wheel removal/refit videos at the weekend when I switched tyres.
Great video! I'll be referring to it when I do need to change pads (which shouldn't be for awhile--only 6k miles so far).
Thanks Goat. Really enjoying your tutorials. I have the exact same bike. All the best from Putnam Valley NY.
Thanx again just completed rear break pads replacement. They just hit the metal and slight scraped the disc Just in time . I didn't get any warning light thought these had one? I used another anti seize product it was silver looking should be ok.
I was not aware of any warning light, and since there is no wired sensor anywhere on the caliper I am not surprised. Good idea to keep an eye on this from time to time and since it does not wear down fast it is easy to stay on top of it. If you prefer, you can always change it out before it is down to the wear limit. Pads are not that expensive, and it is much easier to change out pads alone than pads and disc(s).
@@GrumpyGoat I guess there isn't any. With all that technology no warning light? lol It hit metal and only slightly damaged the 1/'2 inch of the outer disc I let it go don't need to spend all that money it will just wear the pads a little bit faster I;m watching now THANX fo reply. We will talk again frt pads about 1/2 gone with 50 k miles I don't use brakes much living in country lol
Bravissimo….molto o chiaro.
After you put new pads on, is it normal for there to be some resistance on the wheel? The wheel is not free spinning, the new pads are tight up against them?
In my experience, wheels should be partially free spinning. What I mean is, there may be some small catch points where there is rubbing off the dish with the pads but other than that, it should spin freely. This is because there is no spring to pull the pads away from the disk after brakes are applied. They just move back slightly as the hydraulic pressure is released.
With new pads, after the brakes have been pumped back up, the behavior should be almost the same ... possibly catching slightly more but it should spin.
If this is not the case for you you may need a brake service.
AND WE PUSH THE PISTONS BACK IN THE REAR WITH OLD PADS IN FIRSTTO LEAVE ROOM FOR FATTER NEW PADS AND BAM EAST PEASY?
That’s what I do
@@GrumpyGoat what about the right side brake pad rear where there is no piston how is the thicker pad put in? I get my pads Jan4 th How do you make room for the thicker pad? Sorry if that's a dumb question lol
@@GrumpyGoat thank you for answering me! I love my BMW's I have an 89 K 100 RS and a 82 R 100 RS altos had many BMW's, now retired and need to save money !!
@@donnlarossa9173 Not a dumb question, especially if you’ve not done it before. 🙂 When you push the pistons on one side in, you will have enough room for the extra pad material. Don’t forget, the new pads material is only slightly thicker than the existing pads, and you are pulling two worn pads out. So all you have to do is push the pistons in a little. Just make sure you *don’t* push them in too much! They should me *at most* flush with the calliper. Don’t worry, the new pads when installed will fit over the disc with room to spare. It’s not like the disc is so big that you have to fit the assembly over the disc at an angle (like at the front).