Hi, unfortunately I'm stuck at home waiting for a new hip and knee. I started watching CZcams and found you channel. I have always had an avid interest in repairing stuff, you have joined many of the dots for me, and I just wanted to thank you. I love the way you approach your repairs.
Thank you for the insight. Awesome job troubleshooting. You definitely helped me determine whether to Buy or Fix. I had been holding onto this device for a while (hoping that it was an inexpensive repair) . Now, I can confidently replace it. Thx again!
I have a Ring chime, a later version, works fine. However, one of the two external antennas is loose, cannot get inside it to fix that. Since it's still working, I will not break it open. This earlier one seems more repair friendly. Great video Mick.
Seems to be a common problem. When I started watching I hopped you found a way to fix yours since I'm in the same situation with a broken unit. I tried just about the same things as you did and then gave up. Thanks for a nice video
I have the same ring chime. It went dead. Now I know it’s likely to be the same fault as the one you have. Interesting video as usual but way beyond anything I can do with no knowledge or equipment.
Was hoping you’d find a dodgy supply capacitor but after watching your video I think I’ll just lob mine in the bin. Probably a common fault. Thanks for the video. 👍
Had 2 of these fail in my house within a week of each other. Theory is line surges take out the psu and kill the micro in the process. My gen2 have worked fine.
Interesting, the PSU on this one was giving what seemed a nice 5v when I tested it, but it does seem odd that you had two fail at the same time so you could well be onto something 👍
Can be used as a doorbell chime for homeassisstant. make a custom esp based pcb and fit it in, maybe have it play internal files in the flash or add a dfplayer where you can swap the sd card, endless possibilities. also no cloud involved
I think you need an ESR meter for checking caps properly. Many times a cap can have a good reading for capacitance but has failed with a too high ESR (series resistance).
Thanks McG, I do have one of those component tester things and I think that does ESR if I remember rightly. I have used it a few times but not that often. I keep forgetting about it.
Since it seems that this thing is a loss, how about you desolder the MCU and flash memory and see If you can extract data from it. Give them power and a clock signal, and hook up the data lines to a signal analyzer (or an Arduino as a serial monitor). Could be interesting to see if there is anything or if the chip(s) are completely dead. Anyway, still a great video and awesome job troubleshooting.
Thanks, the MCU is supposed to boot from the external flash, but there was no activity on it and one of the internal voltages on the main IC seemed to be missing. I'm pretty sure the flash chip is ok.
Good attempt, can't win them all. It's not as easy as replacing the micro of course, there may be code within (as well as in the external flash). The micro has odd reset timing, one test would be to hold down reset (using a switch etc) until well after the power lines have had a chance to come up. I'm sure you checked the inductor on the 'missing power rail'.
Thanks Ralph. I checked the resistance of the inductor but not the actual inductance of it. I did manual force reset low but no effect. Also checked voltage to all the VCC pins was there too as there's about 6 of them. I'm about 98% sure the chip has just died, but definitely open to suggestions..
@@BuyitFixit Yes, continuity through the inductor was the main thing. There's mention of reset only being released after all supplies are present / stable, especially vbatt, but your force reset low and then release high should have mitigated any issues there. Another overcomplicated 'doorbell' just asking to fail.
In some instances they can make the situation worse, for instance a residual current detector wouldn't cut the power as there is now no earth. There is some interesting info about them here: sound-au.com/articles/iso-xfmr.htm
Mine has just died today. I was hoping for a simple fix, but it appears to be a common fault from all of the comments. In the electrical waste is goes😢
An interesting one, but a shame that the cost of components makes it less viable for repair, either the chip is in high demand fetching a high price or there aren't enough of a market for them to keep the cost down, but I hope that one day there will be a revisit, could be lucky and find the chip in another piece of equipment at some point. Hope you had luck with the abs sensor on the car, they can be a real pain.
Yeah I could get a chip from Aliexpress but even then it would cost £10 + postage and tax, and a new ring chime is around £20 so it's still not economically viable to repair it. Yes I managed to fit the new ABS sensor on the wifes car yesterday and that seems to have cured that problem. Still need to fix my car still. I have to order the crankshaft oil seal still. Speaking of revisit videos I'll be doing one soon on the Dyson hot+cool fan. Hopefully we can repair it now as someone sent me another faulty PCB but at least it's not the microcontroller.
What do you get if you cross My mate Vince and Big Clive? ......Buy it, Fix it! Found your channel a few days ago and am loving the content!! Keep the videos coming please! All the best... John
Thanks John! There's a couple of videos where I reverse engineer the circuit too, (or part of it) like the Dyson fan I did that had 3 faults. I've also reverse engineered software too, like on the solar inverter password problem I had (after repairing it on a previous video) and the medical ultrasound scanner I looked at 👍hope you enjoy 🙂
Replacing the microcontroller likely won't fix it. The serial flash file system used by TI has some chip specific encryption. If you change the micro, you have to have the boot ROM format the chip and rewrite the firmware.
Thanks PenguinKunz, I wasn't aware of that, I know some chips (especially consoles) do have firmware signing and per console encryption, but I didn't think this would. I never really looked at the datasheet. Thanks for letting me know 👍
Yeah I've got a box of bits scrap stuff like that for just that purpose. Just been working on an ultrasonic cleaner which had a faulty pcb mounted button, among other issues, which I robbed off an old disco light pcb as I didn't have one of the correct height.
... that CC3200 thing is interesting, how i don't heard yet about him? :( also, i find is somehow overkill to use an arm-class mcu for a doorbell! like you hunt mosquitoes with Death Star! :)
Would it easy enough to convert a Ring Chime Pro to Usb power as seen in another video? czcams.com/video/Ge9e76BbmAM/video.html As a relative has one with a damage power adaptor connection
I would have thought so, from what I remember there was just a small power supply inside that powers the board, so you would just disconnect that and power the board directly.
![Ring Doorbell Pro Not Working [How To Fix]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/53e5s_I0U94/mqdefault.jpg)
first time i saw not fixed product. Great diagnostic 👍
Thanks 👍 Yes guess you can't win them all, or some are just not worth repairing.
A valiant effort Mick. Great fault finding as always 👍
Thanks Vince!👍 not sure if you saw the RGB laser or ultrasound videos? They were fairly complicated..
@@BuyitFixit RGB laser yes but Ultrasound no, I will do though 👌
Despite the failure, still enjoyed the process. Can learn a lot through your diagnostics. Thanks for sharing
Thanks! Much appreciated 👍
Really enjoyed your running commentary and sharing your electronic skills. Thank you!
Thanks 👍unfortunately a no fix on this one, but I've got a lot of other videos that have been successful. Hopefully you'll check out my other work 😊
Clear analysis despite the failure to fix. Enjoyed watching your methods.
Thanks so much. Really appreciate comments like this!
Hi, unfortunately I'm stuck at home waiting for a new hip and knee. I started watching CZcams and found you channel. I have always had an avid interest in repairing stuff, you have joined many of the dots for me, and I just wanted to thank you. I love the way you approach your repairs.
Thanks very much for your kind comment. I hope your hip and knee replacement goes well.
Thank you for the insight. Awesome job troubleshooting. You definitely helped me determine whether to Buy or Fix. I had been holding onto this device for a while (hoping that it was an inexpensive repair) . Now, I can confidently replace it. Thx again!
No problem, and thanks for the feedback 👍
Very informative. I have a chime with the same problem, having watched this video, I think I will just replace it.
Thank you for saving me time.
No Problem, glad it was of some use to someone 👍
I have a feeling that you will get it sorted out in time! Thanks, Mick!
Cheers Mikey 👍It's probably not worth it. I think the price of the chip was more than the device was worth.
I have a Ring chime, a later version, works fine. However, one of the two external antennas is loose, cannot get inside it to fix that. Since it's still working, I will not break it open. This earlier one seems more repair friendly. Great video Mick.
Thanks Quantum Leap 👍
Seems to be a common problem. When I started watching I hopped you found a way to fix yours since I'm in the same situation with a broken unit. I tried just about the same things as you did and then gave up. Thanks for a nice video
You're welcome, if it's the same fault as this one them I'm almost certain it's the main IC. It would probably not be economical to repair.
I had two of the same generation of ring chime fail with this symptom within days of each other. Thanks for the video - I found it interesting.
Thanks Barry 👍
Crazy amount of electronics in that little thing
Yeah, an internet connected noise maker :)
I have the same ring chime. It went dead. Now I know it’s likely to be the same fault as the one you have. Interesting video as usual but way beyond anything I can do with no knowledge or equipment.
Thanks 👍sorry to hear. Other people have mentioned theirs failed in a similar way too.
Was hoping you’d find a dodgy supply capacitor but after watching your video I think I’ll just lob mine in the bin. Probably a common fault. Thanks for the video. 👍
Yes, I was hoping something along those lines too. Unfortunately it seems that the something in the main IC has failed.
Still really enjoyed the video thanks so much
You're very welcome. Thanks for watching 👍
Had 2 of these fail in my house within a week of each other. Theory is line surges take out the psu and kill the micro in the process. My gen2 have worked fine.
Interesting, the PSU on this one was giving what seemed a nice 5v when I tested it, but it does seem odd that you had two fail at the same time so you could well be onto something 👍
What an extremely overcomplicated doorbell...
Yep. Was still fun learning how it worked
@BuyitFixit i bet. Yea thats the fun
interesting journey.
Yes it was!
Well at least you get a nice small power supply in a case, complete with a speaker, for use in some other project.
Very true, and some gained knowledge!
Can be used as a doorbell chime for homeassisstant. make a custom esp based pcb and fit it in, maybe have it play internal files in the flash or add a dfplayer where you can swap the sd card, endless possibilities. also no cloud involved
Nice effort, I agree, not worth repairing but a good vid either way 😊👍
Thanks 👍🙂
I think you need an ESR meter for checking caps properly. Many times a cap can have a good reading for capacitance but has failed with a too high ESR (series resistance).
Thanks McG, I do have one of those component tester things and I think that does ESR if I remember rightly. I have used it a few times but not that often. I keep forgetting about it.
Since it seems that this thing is a loss, how about you desolder the MCU and flash memory and see If you can extract data from it. Give them power and a clock signal, and hook up the data lines to a signal analyzer (or an Arduino as a serial monitor). Could be interesting to see if there is anything or if the chip(s) are completely dead. Anyway, still a great video and awesome job troubleshooting.
Thanks, the MCU is supposed to boot from the external flash, but there was no activity on it and one of the internal voltages on the main IC seemed to be missing. I'm pretty sure the flash chip is ok.
Good attempt, can't win them all. It's not as easy as replacing the micro of course, there may be code within (as well as in the external flash). The micro has odd reset timing, one test would be to hold down reset (using a switch etc) until well after the power lines have had a chance to come up. I'm sure you checked the inductor on the 'missing power rail'.
Thanks Ralph. I checked the resistance of the inductor but not the actual inductance of it. I did manual force reset low but no effect. Also checked voltage to all the VCC pins was there too as there's about 6 of them. I'm about 98% sure the chip has just died, but definitely open to suggestions..
@@BuyitFixit Yes, continuity through the inductor was the main thing. There's mention of reset only being released after all supplies are present / stable, especially vbatt, but your force reset low and then release high should have mitigated any issues there. Another overcomplicated 'doorbell' just asking to fail.
Very interesting as always, are you using the main power of your house directly or à separating transfo for security ? Thks
Thanks👍I'm not using an isolation transformer, they also come with risks, but I might still invest in one.
@@BuyitFixit better for you, i prefer not see your name in the neuwpaper ! 😊
In some instances they can make the situation worse, for instance a residual current detector wouldn't cut the power as there is now no earth. There is some interesting info about them here: sound-au.com/articles/iso-xfmr.htm
Mine has just died today. I was hoping for a simple fix, but it appears to be a common fault from all of the comments. In the electrical waste is goes😢
Sorry to hear. I've got a pretty good success rate with fixing things, this one was one of the exceptions.
I found this video looking for how to replace the fuse, why did i think it would be that easy😂😂
😂😂I've had a couple of devices where it has just been the fuse, unfortunately those repairs are usually the exception and not the norm.
An interesting one, but a shame that the cost of components makes it less viable for repair, either the chip is in high demand fetching a high price or there aren't enough of a market for them to keep the cost down, but I hope that one day there will be a revisit, could be lucky and find the chip in another piece of equipment at some point. Hope you had luck with the abs sensor on the car, they can be a real pain.
Yeah I could get a chip from Aliexpress but even then it would cost £10 + postage and tax, and a new ring chime is around £20 so it's still not economically viable to repair it. Yes I managed to fit the new ABS sensor on the wifes car yesterday and that seems to have cured that problem. Still need to fix my car still. I have to order the crankshaft oil seal still. Speaking of revisit videos I'll be doing one soon on the Dyson hot+cool fan. Hopefully we can repair it now as someone sent me another faulty PCB but at least it's not the microcontroller.
@@BuyitFixit That would be great to see if you could get the fan working again.
What do you mean you can't fix it ??? what sort of excuse is that ???..........Lol! always interesting to watch...cheers!
😂😂😂 I probably could if I could get the replacement chip, but it's probably not worth repairing 👍
@@BuyitFixit :)
What do you get if you cross My mate Vince and Big Clive? ......Buy it, Fix it! Found your channel a few days ago and am loving the content!! Keep the videos coming please! All the best... John
Thanks John! There's a couple of videos where I reverse engineer the circuit too, (or part of it) like the Dyson fan I did that had 3 faults. I've also reverse engineered software too, like on the solar inverter password problem I had (after repairing it on a previous video) and the medical ultrasound scanner I looked at 👍hope you enjoy 🙂
Great!! I’ll have a look. I have a cricut in working order. The Doppler ultrasound one sounds interesting!! Cheers and all the best! John
Replacing the microcontroller likely won't fix it. The serial flash file system used by TI has some chip specific encryption. If you change the micro, you have to have the boot ROM format the chip and rewrite the firmware.
Thanks PenguinKunz, I wasn't aware of that, I know some chips (especially consoles) do have firmware signing and per console encryption, but I didn't think this would. I never really looked at the datasheet. Thanks for letting me know 👍
Its good for a lot of scrap parts lol
Yeah I've got a box of bits scrap stuff like that for just that purpose. Just been working on an ultrasonic cleaner which had a faulty pcb mounted button, among other issues, which I robbed off an old disco light pcb as I didn't have one of the correct height.
... that CC3200 thing is interesting, how i don't heard yet about him? :(
also, i find is somehow overkill to use an arm-class mcu for a doorbell! like you hunt mosquitoes with Death Star! :)
😂😂😂
Did you teach Big Clive ? or did he teach you ??
😂😂😂😂No lol 😂😂
Did you check the cap on the inductor for failure?
Trying to remember back, I did check them for shorts but I didn't remove them and check the capacitance of them.
Ring doorbell. Chime. Faulty can. l. Fix. It
Well the patient died....You cannot save every patient. Just a little bit of dry humour. My father was a doctor and my mother a nurse.😊😊
Yes unfortunately some things are beyond saving. I've not had a great deal of success trying to repair sheep. I would probably just make a mess 😂😂😂🐑🐑🐑
I won't go near Ring, as all your video stays on Bezos' servers for analysis.
Yes, I wouldn't have one 👍
Would it easy enough to convert a Ring Chime Pro to Usb power as seen in another video?
czcams.com/video/Ge9e76BbmAM/video.html
As a relative has one with a damage power adaptor connection
I would have thought so, from what I remember there was just a small power supply inside that powers the board, so you would just disconnect that and power the board directly.
Worth a look on ali express? Listing 1005004291540887 seems to be what you want and is under a tenner delivered. Could be worth a punt for a revisit?
Thanks for that. Perhaps just for completeness, as a working one is around £15-20 and I'm not 100% if the chip contains any code.