Thank you. This isent so bad. Last video the guy ripped out the stearing column, the engine mount, had it on 2 Jack's. About to just have the shop do it. But looks like I'll do it my self now. 2012 chevy avalanche. Leaking from black hose part
Hey there, just replaced the oil cooler line gasket right there where the 10mm bolts anchor the line next to the oil filter. Changed the gasket thinking the oil was leaking there. But now I see that it’s coming from the Allen key on the side of that. Could you tell me the size of Allen key that fits in there before I disconnect it all again?
My 2014 Suburban Z71 5.3L is leaking from the oil line connection points at the radiator driver side. Should I just replace the whole radiator to be sure or is it probably just the connecting pieces from the lines where they meet the radiator ?
I didn't check if there was.. I assumed the tiny bit I was able to tighten it down would have done the trick. ..but now I'm in the same boat as you, it started leaking again. I was able to tighten a few pan bolts, that could be where it's coming from. I don't think it's the rear main because there's a slit and a hole on the bottom of the bell housing where it meets the block and I can run a piece of paper towel up in there and it always comes out dry. Very strange but I know it's not coming from the top of the engine. Might have to take it to a real mechanic and have them show me where it's coming from with proof.
@@HI-PSI I'll be changing the lines for a new set soon. I'll likely pull the end plug out to see if there is an o ring. The lines mght be seeping at the top of the block (where the two lines are pressed into the block).
Could be the oil temp sensor, map sensor, oil sending unit, belly pan, RMS, RMS flex plate or cover plate, or vlom gasket. The drain plugs also tend to dril over time and tiny gaskets are available now for em. I recommend going over all of these… and if you get all the smaller of these problems rectified and still leaks then its the RMS and/or cover plate or Belly pan - both of which are a big job for the typical Diy’er. These aluminum blocks have issues with pitting and most of the new gaskets are recommended to be installed with RTV sealant to help remediate that, especially near edge gaps etc. Id recommend looking in the inspection hole at the flywheel and possibly using a borescope camera to get up close to the rms. If theres any wetness up there its the cause and sometimes can be difficult to spot. If it is the Rms leaking then you could also try AT 205. You add it to the oil and it puffs all the seals and gaskets up rejuvenating them and id say fixes the issue 50% of the time, but for how long who knows? Worth a shot tho… when or if you check the map sensor and oil sending unit they are located at the very-top-centre-back of the engine, kinda behind the intake cover. Id recommend just completely disconnecting everything and removing the entire intake cover to access. That way you get a chance to clean under there, replace the intake valley gaskets, replace the map and sender, plus get a real good look at everything up there… cuz youll also be looking straight at the vlom cover, which also have the potential to leak, in which case you can pop it off and replace that. It all sounds like a lot, but really it’s not quite as bad as you’d think… just lots of connections to remember (throttle body, injectors, vacuum hoses, electrical wiring connectors, etc). If it gets daunting id recommend using masking tape to identify each matching connection A,B,C, etc. if you do that you’re golden! Theres also some oil pipes that run back n forth over top the vlom cover that have 4 connection points into the valve covers. They also can leak and have gaskets that can easily be replaced. Forgot to mention its a good time to clean and inspect those valve covers/gaskets.
Yea theyre stupid. GM ruined the denali brand. Also. You should mention that you did this on a 2wd as the front diff and axel will most certainly be a problem on the AWD trucks
This video makes it look like a gravy job. Be warned...4WD models have none of the beautiful real estate to work under like the 2WD Denali in this video. Snaking the old line assembly out and getting the new one into position takes finesse and patience. Some videos even show the tech removing (temporarily) the driver side motor mount to gain necessary clearance... 👀 🙈
If you have a 4WD model, I encourage you to call around the most reputable dealers and shops in your area for estimates. It's NOT a job for an average DIY person. Sometimes, due to all the tools and mess required, it's better to pay a pro who's done it before...than to lose an entire weekend + multiple trips to the store for new tools and parts. You find out real quick what your time and money are worth. i.e...there are jobs I've done that I would have happily paid not to do... 👀 😖
I did my 4x4 Sierra, 2011. it was a huge pain, unbolted the motor mounts & jacked up the block a few inches, just don't go too much. Even then it was nearly impossible, I have read some guys drop the differential to make the room instead. in any case, I am trying to find a fully flexible hose option rather than the OEM replacement, they will start to leak again at the union where the flex hose & metal hose marry up. @@TheTexican05
Cut the lines and let the oil drain, unscrew the fasteners going into the block just above the oil filter. Pull the bottom section down and forward towards the radiator to remove. There are keeper pins holding the top section to the radiator, pull them out and slip the cooler line fittings out of the radiator. Pull that section straight up to remove. To install: From the bottom, push the connector that attaches above the oil filter through next to the front side of the engine, it's tricky/grabby, but it will go through without much force. Attach fasteners. Then push the top section up to the top of the radiator. This is on a 2wd truck, it's relatively easy and straight forward. 4wd is way more complicated than this.
My lord , you are the best, but I am trying I cut the lines, I can’t get it to pull out through the front. It’s a 2WD. What a bear 🐻 it is to remove let alone get the new lines in, Jeez. I unclipped that black harness on front of oil pan for a lil more room. Idk if you have one more tip to try, but you’re great for answering in first place. On Valentine’s Day too! Well I’m gonna try again thanks cheers 🍻 Kevin NJ
It looks like I have this big transfer case with two Cv boots and axils behind my rack and pinion hanging there that you don’t seem to have on that vehicle. I don’t know what way to fish it I tried both I can’t seem to get it passed it all. With that U bend in the lines. Any thoughts? ☘️
Thank you. This isent so bad. Last video the guy ripped out the stearing column, the engine mount, had it on 2 Jack's. About to just have the shop do it. But looks like I'll do it my self now.
2012 chevy avalanche. Leaking from black hose part
Hey what size Allen key does that stock plug use? I have the same leak.
Hey there, just replaced the oil cooler line gasket right there where the 10mm bolts anchor the line next to the oil filter.
Changed the gasket thinking the oil was leaking there.
But now I see that it’s coming from the Allen key on the side of that. Could you tell me the size of Allen key that fits in there before I disconnect it all again?
My 2014 Suburban Z71 5.3L is leaking from the oil line connection points at the radiator driver side. Should I just replace the whole radiator to be sure or is it probably just the connecting pieces from the lines where they meet the radiator ?
Would it be the same procedure for a GMC Sierra 1500 08 4.8?
Gonna attempt this on my 2012 Yukon. Thanks.
It's not too bad, just take your time fishing the new line in from the front.
How did you get the old cooler out and the new one snaked in there? You skipped past that. Having trouble getting it out let alone back in
Agreed he skipped the most important part
I have a 4wd and there’s about a half inch of room to tighten the plug
Did you have to remove the motor mount and the cross member or did it slide right in?
It'll slide in. Just keep the caps on the new part when fishing it through from the front.
@@HI-PSI Hey bro, silly question, but how do those caps come off when pulling the lines off the radiator??
Did you drain all of your oil before replacing your oil cooling lines?
No, just allowed it to drain into a bucket from each point of contact as I went along then topped off with fresh at the end. It's not bad.
Any chance there is an O ring under the leaking plug?
I have the same plug leak and managed to tighten it up, but it still leaks..
J
I didn't check if there was.. I assumed the tiny bit I was able to tighten it down would have done the trick.
..but now I'm in the same boat as you, it started leaking again. I was able to tighten a few pan bolts, that could be where it's coming from.
I don't think it's the rear main because there's a slit and a hole on the bottom of the bell housing where it meets the block and I can run a piece of paper towel up in there and it always comes out dry. Very strange but I know it's not coming from the top of the engine.
Might have to take it to a real mechanic and have them show me where it's coming from with proof.
@@HI-PSI
I'll be changing the lines for a new set soon. I'll likely pull the end plug out to see if there is an o ring.
The lines mght be seeping at the top of the block (where the two lines are pressed into the block).
BTW. I've noticed as I view the LS series engines here and on the 'net the area where the lines bolt to the engine block is often damp/wet..
Could be the oil temp sensor, map sensor, oil sending unit, belly pan, RMS, RMS flex plate or cover plate, or vlom gasket. The drain plugs also tend to dril over time and tiny gaskets are available now for em. I recommend going over all of these… and if you get all the smaller of these problems rectified and still leaks then its the RMS and/or cover plate or Belly pan - both of which are a big job for the typical Diy’er. These aluminum blocks have issues with pitting and most of the new gaskets are recommended to be installed with RTV sealant to help remediate that, especially near edge gaps etc. Id recommend looking in the inspection hole at the flywheel and possibly using a borescope camera to get up close to the rms. If theres any wetness up there its the cause and sometimes can be difficult to spot. If it is the Rms leaking then you could also try AT 205. You add it to the oil and it puffs all the seals and gaskets up rejuvenating them and id say fixes the issue 50% of the time, but for how long who knows? Worth a shot tho… when or if you check the map sensor and oil sending unit they are located at the very-top-centre-back of the engine, kinda behind the intake cover. Id recommend just completely disconnecting everything and removing the entire intake cover to access. That way you get a chance to clean under there, replace the intake valley gaskets, replace the map and sender, plus get a real good look at everything up there… cuz youll also be looking straight at the vlom cover, which also have the potential to leak, in which case you can pop it off and replace that. It all sounds like a lot, but really it’s not quite as bad as you’d think… just lots of connections to remember (throttle body, injectors, vacuum hoses, electrical wiring connectors, etc). If it gets daunting id recommend using masking tape to identify each matching connection A,B,C, etc. if you do that you’re golden! Theres also some oil pipes that run back n forth over top the vlom cover that have 4 connection points into the valve covers. They also can leak and have gaskets that can easily be replaced. Forgot to mention its a good time to clean and inspect those valve covers/gaskets.
What did you torque the bolts to?
German
Is that a real denali? I thought all denalis were AWD were is you 4 well drive axel
It's real. They made 2wd, look it up
Yea theyre stupid. GM ruined the denali brand. Also. You should mention that you did this on a 2wd as the front diff and axel will most certainly be a problem on the AWD trucks
This video makes it look like a gravy job. Be warned...4WD models have none of the beautiful real estate to work under like the 2WD Denali in this video. Snaking the old line assembly out and getting the new one into position takes finesse and patience. Some videos even show the tech removing (temporarily) the driver side motor mount to gain necessary clearance... 👀 🙈
Were you able to do the job without undoing a motor mount/axle? Really don’t feel like messing with all that but I need to get new lines put in
If you have a 4WD model, I encourage you to call around the most reputable dealers and shops in your area for estimates. It's NOT a job for an average DIY person. Sometimes, due to all the tools and mess required, it's better to pay a pro who's done it before...than to lose an entire weekend + multiple trips to the store for new tools and parts. You find out real quick what your time and money are worth. i.e...there are jobs I've done that I would have happily paid not to do... 👀 😖
I did my 4x4 Sierra, 2011. it was a huge pain, unbolted the motor mounts & jacked up the block a few inches, just don't go too much. Even then it was nearly impossible, I have read some guys drop the differential to make the room instead. in any case, I am trying to find a fully flexible hose option rather than the OEM replacement, they will start to leak again at the union where the flex hose & metal hose marry up. @@TheTexican05
Why don't you show installation
Play it in reverse
Much harder on 4wd
You should of tried this on a real truck with 4 wheel drive.
Thank god I don't require 4x4 in my life.
Haha, but is ready when you need it
You realize not everyone wants a 4wd right?
How did you get the old cooler out and the new one snaked in there? You skipped past that. Having trouble getting it out let alone back in
Cut the lines and let the oil drain, unscrew the fasteners going into the block just above the oil filter. Pull the bottom section down and forward towards the radiator to remove.
There are keeper pins holding the top section to the radiator, pull them out and slip the cooler line fittings out of the radiator. Pull that section straight up to remove.
To install:
From the bottom, push the connector that attaches above the oil filter through next to the front side of the engine, it's tricky/grabby, but it will go through without much force. Attach fasteners. Then push the top section up to the top of the radiator.
This is on a 2wd truck, it's relatively easy and straight forward. 4wd is way more complicated than this.
My lord , you are the best, but I am trying I cut the lines, I can’t get it to pull out through the front. It’s a 2WD. What a bear 🐻 it is to remove let alone get the new lines in, Jeez. I unclipped that black harness on front of oil pan for a lil more room. Idk if you have one more tip to try, but you’re great for answering in first place. On Valentine’s Day too! Well I’m gonna try again thanks cheers 🍻 Kevin NJ
It looks like I have this big transfer case with two Cv boots and axils behind my rack and pinion hanging there that you don’t seem to have on that vehicle. I don’t know what way to fish it I tried both I can’t seem to get it passed it all. With that U bend in the lines. Any thoughts? ☘️
@Kevin Fraser Yeah bro, this video is for rear wheel drive trucks. The 4x4 models are a bish