Splitting Firewood - The Art and Science
Vložit
- čas přidán 30. 12. 2012
- Techniques I have learned to split firewood.
1) The shorter the log the easier it is to split.
2) Put the knot at the bottom of the log when splitting.
3) Touch up the edge of your splitting maul every time you split wood.
4) Split around knots, then try to split through them.
5) Use the three hit rule, if the wood doesn't start to split in three hits it goes on the cutting pile.
6) Large logs are easier to split from the outside in, not quartered.
7) Every tree splits differently. Try different methods with different types of wood.
8) Stringy woods are a bear to split, such as elm and sweet gum. Try to avoid these if hand splitting.
9) Use a tire on a chopping block to catch and support your wood while you split. You'll never go back.
10) If you are having a hard time splitting a piece of wood flip it over. You'd be amazed at how often this little trick gets the job done.
If you watched all 40 minutes of this video you are a hardcore wood splitting enthusiast. Welcome to the club! - Jak na to + styl
Thanks for instructive monologue&picture - you are right, the proper appeal to the audience is neglected in most of YT films. Your audio is perfect by all means, camera is static yet informative. You just show home wood chopping can be effective and less effort-calling. Not only for pros, living forestmen!
I have split with just about everything - get a fiskars x27. Keep your 12lb, and get a wedge. That is my best advice.
very good advice on the way to split knots, fun to watch people say this chunk will not split go turn it over and split it in one swing.
Thanks for making a very informative video. I cut and split all my own wood for my backyard fire pit and camping trips. A good long weekend for me takes about a cord of wood. I do all the cooking on the fire. Another cord gets burnt in the firepit over a summer. I split all by hand. I would also like to thank you for the tire method. I tried the bungee cord method, but cutting a bungee the right way and having it fly back and nail you in the right spot will have you cursing. The only thing I did different is not to bolt the tire down. That way I can get rid of bark and debris by simply pulling the tire towards me and swiping the dirt off the chopping block. I will not split wood any other way now. I see videos of guys constantly picking up their pieces. Way too much work. Like my Dad always said, work with your head, not your back. Thanks again for all your informative videos, I look forward to more wood cutting videos from you.
Good stuff, just added a Max Caddy add on in our home and am getting into the flow and peace of splitting wood by human power. I appreciate all the tips you are sharing- makes for a more enjoyable experience.
Awesome video...you got it figured out! Your title says it all...its all about the science. Lotta people say that it's crazy for doing it by hand but those are the ones that are trying to split solely on muscle...that's crazy. Work smarter not harder! Your setup is almost identical to mine. I pay attention to my breathing and heart rate. Get it to a level that's elevated but not racing and I can go all day. Great advice on tossing stubborn pieces to cut pile too. Fiskars are the tools to have!
great video thanking for taking the time to post it!
Love the vid. You've inspired me to chop some wood. Thanks.
Great video. Thanks. I use an electric splitter a lot, once I've gotten the wood to a manageable size. I've gotten a lot better at splitting with a manual splitter, I find myself using the sledge hammer more than I probably should. I'm amazed you cut the pieces as small as you do. I think larger pieces are better in the wood stove, so that you don't have to feed it constantly. I live in Bethel, CT, so perhaps I'll stop by sometime to talk firewood strategies.
Hi,
And thank you for some very good advice! I spent a year cutting fire wood and kept the small bits for kindling. I was cutting it for my boss who had only one small log fire in a really big house, he said he got me it for fish sorting, trout and salmon, but I was so good, (according to him and his wife at any rate) he put me on constant tree rounds, All I could do to lift them when I first started, and a just had wedges and a big hammer, fortunately I was able to do most of the work and stacking in a 16C barn, watching the owls and bats as I did so.
Take care
mrbluenun
Great video! Thank you. We use our "Cut Pile" for stocking the stove for the nights.
Very informative, thank you! ... Gonna try my hand at wood splitting this weekend :) ... got a new fireplace and a ton of logs I saved from last years treefelling...
Cool. Thanks :) ... my partners grandfather passed away a while ago and left a garage full of every tool imaginable and from the past five decades... im pretty sure i have at least one splitter there...
Thanks for this. Have just got hold of a large batch of recently felled beech in the UK. Will definitely give the tyre tip a go. Looks like it could save a whole heap of back ache! Many thanks.
It's certainly dense and heavy. Could I ask you how long you would season it? I will have it stacked in a sunny and quite breezy position. I have heard beech can take quite a while to reach a point where it is good to burn.
Ok. Thanks for your advice and taking the time to reply. I am really enjoying your informative videos. All the best. Gareth
Very nice video, thanks so much. I'm new at this so I'm just eating these videos up LOL. You answered one question for me, when you spit that new wood. I always see people on here that has whole prices along with some already split and wondered if they had to let them season before you split it.
for once there are people that are right and this guy is right and down to earth on his tips and what he is talking about is right.
great , changed my mind in buying a log splitter, great ideas
Thanks for taking the time to really go through in explaining.
Learned a lot.
Your welcome.
In the past i also used the tire, which is great for manual logsplitting. I always filled the whole tire with wood so it doesn't always fall over. You always take 1 piece of wood at the time. Ok, the wood doesn't fall on the ground, but you still are bending over alot and losing time i recon. I now use a 12t log splitter from Balfor on my Kubota tractor. It has 2 speeds and is incredibly powerfull. I don't have to carry the logs far. I always move the tractor as close as i can. In two days work i split your
whole woodpile without breaking a sweat. If i get my own channel set up, i will post a video.
I can see how tire would keep you from striking the block with your handle too. And stops the maul from continuing down and toward your shins! Neat idea, thanks for the video. I'm having a black walnut taken down, so I will have the timber guy leave me the stump at a good height for a chopping block and I do have an old tire already. I'm going to do this! Elm is a real bugger it's so twisty, and it stinks when you burn it.
I have so much problem splitting my wood, you make it look so easy. thanks
I agree with the work smarter, not harder mentality. A few notes, some that I've seen mentioned in other comments.
Every vid I've seen using a tire, the benefit is loading the tire up. It holds your wood up, and all of the wood combined keeps the pieces from flying everywhere.
I didn't hear you mention about a maul being mild steel, therefore you can hit it with a sledge if need be. Your smaller splitter is a splitting axe, made from hardened steel, and you shouldn't hit it with another metal instrument.
Personally, I would be using the bigger maul for the larger and knotty pieces. Then as the round is broken down and able to be placed in the tire, switching to the smaller one.
I have the Fiskars X27, can't complain, I do need to get an actual maul though.
Cheers!
Thank you for these instructional video sir.
Great video.
great video. made me realize i need to get rid of my damp wood. you know the wood with the ants and termites and bugs. nothing but fresh wood from now on. But man i have a lot of decayed wood. guess ill get the fire barrel going for a few days straight. I use a 22 ton splitter because of physical limitations and i built a air over hydraulic splitter. works incredibly well albeit a little slow. but like you i enjoy the activity.
Excellent vid with some really good tips. Genuine question and not a criticism, but you are splitting the wood very finely compared to how I do it for my log burner. Dont you find that it burns really fast?
great video! I'm more curious about how you got your dog to stop barking so easily! Gotta get a tire.
Tip, best to keep your back straight and shoulders back to avoid wear and tear of your back overtime.
Nice video, thanks for the tips. When you actually get around to chainsawing the cut pile, how are safely securing those pieces? (just putting one foot on the piece?) And are you chainsawing them with the grain to "force" decently rectangle pieces for your stove? Thanks!
Nice vid. Thanks!
I'm going to try the tyre, today......Thanks for the video.
This is old!!!!!!! I love it!!!!!!😆😆😆👍👍
You sure like tiny kindling size logs.
Good video. I want to do the tire thing, but highly recommend loading it up with three to four logs. You are forever having to stand the log up again after every swing, defeating most of the purpose of using the tire! Very tedious and time consuming. It's crazy to do it that way. Load that thing up and swing away, like you did later in the video. The logs hold themselves up and you will be finished in half the time.
I'd use the twelve pound maul on the larger logs initially and not waste time with the smaller maul hitting the log ten times. That smaller maul is great on the small logs.
For some other people stores such as Home Depot, Lowes and Menards carry the lighter lop splitter for a very reasonable price. I have almost the exact one only with a yellow handle but it works wonders.
This video is awesome...
Great video. I split between 30-50 cords per year as a way to make some extra money from people who are to lazy or incapable of doing it themselves. I also use a tire on my block. I only have 1 thing I can recommend. A Fiskars x27 splitting axe. Much lighter making the precision swing easier, way sharper and as long as your wood is properly seasoned it is a lot faster. I've had many friends take a few swings and all bought one. I'll honestly never use another axe or maul again.
I really enjoyed your video. I couldn't help but wonder what state you live in because that looks like a beautiful place to be in.
Good video I also vote for the Fiskers 27 don't get the 25 too short. I have one like yours and a 10 pounder if I feel like a good workout. If you put more in the tire it will all stay in for the most part. One slab or a small round will kick pieces out on the ground. Happy burning.
"Actually, maybe i'm not" funny guy! :)
Thanks for uploading epic vid
I learnt so much here - thank you I am only little me but i want to get this :)
I've heard of people putting candle wax on saws when they want to cut through damp wood, it is supposed to act like a lubricant. Would that work on an axe/maul? Cheers from the UK.
I saw all the videos are in the club ? I usually use to split or wedges , because the wood here is very gnarled and leathery , or an old ax splitting now worn .... what kind is the little red ? I'd like to buy it to me , I can find online ?
what are you using for camera and mic how do you got it set up that it sounds like your on top the camera?
Who sets use left hands in front or right hands?
what size rim for that tire? Im going to find one tomorrow?
thanks for this sir
ive been there with knotted wood but when i split it it has a nasty habit of kicking the maul off to the side and knocks me off balance
That Fiskers X27 everyone on here likes must be nice. I will have get one of those. Right now I am using an 8lb maul.
*****
I just got one. Was using a new maul from home depot. The x27 is $50. It's pretty good. The handle is very long which is nice for leverage. The blade is a bit soft though. I like it. But if you have a decent maul already, I'm not sure it's a world of difference. All the guys on hearth.com rave about them.
***** Nice video, The fiskers is effective but i tend to get a lot of vibrations with the one i have, i would recommend a husqvarna over wetterlings, its cheaper and same quality. Another downside to the fiskers is that you can't replace the handle if you break it.
***** The Husqvarna are made by Wetterlings for sale by Husqvarna. At least that's the case for axes and hatchets.
Just a quick update-they are now made for Husqvarna by Hultafors Bruks instead of Wetterlings. Either way they are great quality for the money.
For the bigger logs, if the axe stays in lift the block over your head and drop it on the backside of the maul....The blocks usually fly apart easily that way. :)
I just bought a 4.5lb , maul from home depot and its not splitting well. I live in florida and im spitting wood that was cut down in jan. The new designed maul is not working well. Im putting a tremendous effort amd still nothing. Its florida oak. Hard as concrete!
The wood your splitting must be at least a uear old or greater.
Anyway great video taught me alot. Thanks
With 50 years of log splitting under my belt (it got longer), I thought you did a great job of covering all the important stuff. I'm not too enthusiastic about trying a tire yet myself, but I can see the advantage, particularly if you want to cut a bunch of your wood into pretty small pieces. I noticed you had a bunch of those pieces "escaping" the tire. Might want to consider stacking two tires and bolting them together. Would cut down escapes, but might have issues with handle hitting.
Wish i had learned the tire thing 60 years ago. I first started about ten years ago with two stacked tires "sewn" together with bailing wire after trimming off the bead and about half of the sidewall. Newer tires are available that have wide tread coupled with narrow sidewalls so one is all that's needed. Keeping the rounds on the ground and throwing the tire over them works best for me. It sure seems I hit a round harder when it is in the tire (I also tend to split into smaller when using the tire) for kindling I have a lawnmower tire, with part of the sidewall cut off, tacked to a block so I really go crazy making tiny splits.
Hi, great wood pile you have there, i presume you have a largish fire to feed. why do you chop your wood so small? Big chunks that will fill your fire last longer and far less chopping.
Ah ok. Guess you have that privilege abundant wood supplies brings you. Difficult in a big city. Enjoy the rewards of you labours.
What brand is that red mall?
I think you meant "cast" metal versus "machined." Castings are poured in to a mold while forgings are pounded with some kind of hammer or similar device. Forgings are typically much stronger than castings due to this process and forged axes are a great example. I mention this not to be picky but because it means you are buying a very different kind of material for an axe.
You split the wood down small. Any particular reason for that?
Thumbs Up !!
Great video! Why do you split your pieces so small for your wood stove? My grandma bigger starter pieces :). What state are you in? Thanks....Kevin Northern California / Oregon.
*****
Hi - great video with helpful hints. Excuse my ignorance but why do you get nervous with damp wood and why do the knotted woods concern you as well??
Thanks very much - I was concerned there were some burning issues.
i do not split that small and to me the height is not helpful on the ground works much better for me. also in the case of oak splitting as soon as its cut is far easier as it has not dried on the ends. i have used the maul you are using and the biggest downfall is they do not hold up, about 30 full cord and they break. went to a fiskars and have split over 300 full cord with it and still works fine. the oak chunk you are splitting for me that is a simple chunk to split down the middle and i make that into about 6 chunks total.
Where did you find the red handled maul at?
+Land Designs Unlimited LLC Thanks I aquired one and the head is starting to bust and really like it and had never seen one before
You like the sharp, light axe but it lacks the force to split larger logs. For the larger logs you need a wide angle up front to transfer maximum energy to opposed horizontal force rather than sharply cut into the wood and dissipate your light force easily.
splitting your wood as soon as you cut it is a plus, i use a fiskars far superior to either tool he is using. no need for a twelve pound maul as you lose speed on your swing, the tool is only as good as the guy swinging it. also stacking it and then splitting it is a waste of time, some will say it needs to dry but it does not dry that much until split.
Nothing like making toothpicks out of maple
get a granfors bruks splitting maul/ splitting axe and you going to think the maul you use is crap. it Cost a bit but you can't find a better one. but you going to take care of it by sharpen it and oil the axe head and The handle
I know this is a old comment but I agree. I've got granfors bruks and they are wonderful.
Split some curly maple. Those are a real challenge!
that's quite the woodpile you have there
i hear ya
I do the same thing to split my wood
Yellow locus wood is pretty stringy too
honey locust is a breeze.
oh tea been doing that for years no chasing wood around
watched the whole thing... learned a few things, Thank You... if it were me, when the big pieces didn't want to give... I'd use big daddy on them. :-)
Does it take a lot of practice to be able to cut on the spot that you want to like this?
I want to see the condition of man and tools next to that pile after you have it split. Also.....Your wood is still green and needs to season. It will be ready to burn next fall. Oh..this is a 2012 vid.....Wheres the follow up?
What is the theory behind the tyre please I don't see the benefit yet.
Huh?
Wondering why you cut your wood so small? Other than that great video
Kindling
A good or bad chainsaw operator makes a big difference when you split.
A good one wil weaken knots
Are you still doing video? ?😆😆
"I used my stickler on a toro dingo" - not sure I would admit to that.....
i think your block is too high,your not getting the full force of the down force
if your maul/axe gets chips or blunted from hitting a knot, then that is not an axe, it is a paper weight, same goes form metal or fiberglass handles
get a good old forged axehead, sharpen it with a stone and put a wood handle on it the axe will last you for the next 100 years, if you sharpen it twice a year and change the handle every 10 years
I would love to see these small swings with some elm.
***** I gotcha man. I have basically all elm here so I have to take monster swings. I would LOVE to get my hands on some oak. Few and far between though.
36:47 the wood looks like a camels head...
I disagree....i let all rounds sit for one year before manual split....the outside starts to dry nice which speeds up the curing time after it is split....otherwise green wood is just to tough
are you right or left handed?
I think the best scientific technique is to use a machine.
mrwaterfighter1 Save the machine for the skirts. Splitting wood is great exercise and rewarding.
+Sean Prosser I wonder if your comment would be the same when you're in your 60's and 70's I stopped using my mauls around 65 and bought a 26 ton splitter. That is smart, nothing scientific about it. Want to save your body instead of wearing it out early? Swinging even an 8-pound maul for years does have a big effect, especially on your lower back. Get the newer style maul with the "wings" on the side and that should save you a lot of hard work. The old saying "work smart not hard" still applies to this day.
check out counciltool.com they are american made and have good prices!
i got bored at 5minutes
You made it longer than most wood. Unless you're totally new to splitting this is a tough one to get through.