It's simple enough to replace the reg on the board provided the manufacturer will provide the details of the chip so you can source the right one. I've done a few on the happymodel boards, now I ensure I run a suitable cap on all my qauds.
I bought three of the BetaFPV AIO. And all three had this problem from the factory! I’m still trying to get them replaced. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!✌️😎
The sound of the drone is music to my ears! :D While I love music, I don't like flying videos with music. For me music almost always detracts from the video. I almost always mute the sound after a few seconds. I find music to be too distracting. Thanks for this one Nate, it's a great video. I love informative videos like this one.
I think being able to hear the motor sound is a neat thing. Novice and all can learn/compare throttle modulation with superimposing the audio to the flight. Thank you for your great work. The Beta 85 Pro is one of my favorite fliers as well. So thank you again for making that possible. Have a great week. Im looking forward to building a r3d Ion 3" next...
nice info! i have a 85pro2 with the very same 3 tones.....then silence...no lights on either... now i know where to start lol! love the sound of the motos and gr8 flying as well....youre among the best pilots bro!
Prefer props too. Good to hear when you are throttling up and when not. Keep up de good stuff. Next time I'll fix me my fc. Thanks for saving me money.
Thank you for sharing this video!! I have blown so many 5v regulators on just about everything I have flown. Can't wait to try this some day. Love the little quad screaming during the test flight too!
Both your shutterbug85& 3 inch Baby Toothpick 1s are my favorites I love to watch you rip with Nate that's awesome to finally hear the sound of it in action. Wonderful job on the video very helpful as always!!
Tried this...no luck. Wired the inputs in, confirmed I got 5V out the back side. Wired the 5V input onto the board...then it only reads 0.3-.4V. Tried another step-down board just in case something was wrong with the first. Same result. Wired 2(!) on just because. Still nothing. This is all on a Betafpv 85x. I wonder if it just doesn't put out enough amps...?
Sadly my shutterbug85 build is currently grounded with a blown esc. I've really got to get that one rebuilt, I miss how well it flew for the size. This is a great tip, hopefully it helps people get new life out of damaged equipment. For the question at the end, I'd probably rather hear the sounds from the flight over background music.
Hearing the motors whine is like music to me already. I like it this way. This makes me want to rebuild my 85! (it burnt an esc when I was messing with blheli_s). I need a good whoop board as a toothpick board won't fit the frame.
You prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know of a way to get back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Nathaniel Matthias Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thanks for this video!! I have a tiny rc boat that I am building. Thought of using a partially disassembled servo as my motor, which should work great as it is both proportional and reversible and hooks right up to the receiver. I was looking for a way to step-down the voltage from a 2s lipo in a small form factor. Servo is really small, so no problems with max current.
The wolfwhoop 5v regs are the best IMO, they're extremely reliable. I personally like to install external 5v regulators on every 2s AIO board I get (when the internal regulator is intact). That way I know I have a reliable 5v regulator thats not gonna randomly burn out in a flying session. I've also found that caps are not needed when using the wolfwhoop regulator.
Hello Mr. Shutterbug, I really enjoy your channel ! I feel like your channel is a great mix of info, flying and you're an true innovator to this hobby!!!!!! So, you are shaping the way all of us are doing things
I was wondering if you could help me out with the Betafpv 65s and 65s lite. I can't seem to get.either armed. 1 is the Bayang protocol and the other is Frysky. I've had both for months and neither fly. Ty 4 ur .time
Thanks. I have fun! As for binding, what radio are you using? I use an old Taranis Q X7 radio (from back when they still supported D8 protocol). That's what I use for my FrSky drones, and I have a module that goes in the back when I need the Bayang protocol.
@@MrShutterBug Wow! Can I just tell you that after the Christmas weekend my wife and I had and the luck I've had with other reviewers, I wasn't sure if I would hear from you...., Thank you so much for taking your time to help me out!!! Okay, so I also use a Qx7. I have for years and I seek to fly okay and the range is fine for whoops and a few 2 and 3 inchers. Lol, í have to read th rest of your reply.lol
@@MrShutterBugokay, lol, so as far as buying the module, for 1 it's like 2 months to get 1 from every place I can find. 2nd, I wanted to use a toy grade, Bayang protocol transmitter because I was going to fly the 65s lite in the pool. Of course waterproofing both the transmitter and the quad. That way if I do get either wet it should be no big deal. And since I live in Arizona the pool is an option all year around and there are some great things to fly around in our pool area! So I have probably every toy grade transmitter you can get. I started selling toy grade drones over 5 years and I broke or lost so many, that I have probably 30 transmitters. And the ones that were supposed to work didn't. I should correct myself, they look like they are bound by the lights changing but they won't arm. But I have the 65s and I use the Qx7 and it's funny I had it bound and then it wouldn't work. Again, it was bound but wouldn't arm. Any ideas, thanks again Mr. Shutterbug
@@MrShutterBugokay, lol, so as far as buying the module, for 1 it's like 2 months to get 1 from every place I can find. 2nd, I wanted to use a toy grade, Bayang protocol transmitter because I was going to fly the 65s lite in the pool. Of course waterproofing both the transmitter and the quad. That way if I do get either wet it should be no big deal. And since I live in Arizona the pool is an option all year around and there are some great things to fly around in our pool area! So I have probably every toy grade transmitter you can get. I started selling toy grade drones over 5 years and I broke or lost so many, that I have probably 30 transmitters. And the ones that were supposed to work didn't. I should correct myself, they look like they are bound by the lights changing but they won't arm. But I have the 65s and I use the Qx7 and it's funny I had it bound and then it wouldn't work. Again, it was bound but wouldn't arm. Any ideas, thanks again Mr. Shutterbug
This is a game changer. Just put a quad together and had flown a few test flights after tuning. Then an incident and only three beeps. I've got four 5v pads and one of them is dead, so I am going order up a set of these and give it a shot. Thx!
Thank you, I'm certain this had been the problem for most of the flight controllers in my dead pile, so frustrating. I'll try this though, seems like it's worth a try. I've a problem with escs on aio 4 in 1 FCs dying also
Using this method for my 1S toothpick, which has a blown 5v reg. Obviously my 1S LiPo will only provide 4.2v, so I need to use a 5V Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Regulator S9V11F5 to step that 4.2v up to 5v. Doing it tonight, so fingers crossed...
Thank you! I was about to go fly but the drone was like this and a 5v regulator solved it! Although the video now as some black interference.. Maybe the video wire is too close to the 5v or even the vbat wire.. I'll have to see better
Most of the times it's a burned AMS1117 or comparable. Most flight controllers make use of these. They die constantly and are not very forgiving :-/ . But they are cheap and can be easily replaced if you have basic solder skills
Using Hot Air Station is considered Basic Soldering skills now? Removing SMD is not easy specially on a crowded compact and dual sided PCB. My 5 cents.
@@michaelreyes8670 It's a component of the approx., size of a rice corn. Just blob it in with solder and it can be removed. Not harder then for example removing a smd resistor. If you can solder motor wires to a whoop board this should really be no big deal. It's not a 400 pin BGA chip. As for replacing, it's a SOT323 package that could be soldered to the board by hand with the cheapest iron, really nothing special is required
Congratulations on hitting over 10,000 subs! I thought I had this happen on my 75mm mobulite 25000kv🤔 it only played half the esc chimes I noticed it was unbound so I bound up and then set it up in beta flight 🙏 🍀... it seems to be a low voltage issue with the mobula6 board.
Just build my first tiny whoop the only issue I’m having is when I’m arm the drone the motor just twitch in order to get them spinning I have to arm and hit the throttle a little and then it’s a good Any idea what the issue is.
Have this same issue accept there are lights turned on granted it is a skystars f405 so not a whoop. But i am wondering how to go about fixing my drone cause i get the three beeps but the board does show a solid red light
If you have a multimeter, you can test the voltage between the 5V pad and GND. Does it show something close to 5V when you plug in a battery? If not, then you have a bad voltage regulator. If voltage is OK, then something else is wrong. Good luck!
Thanks for your great videos. In general, would you recommend using a capacitor for 1s 65mm whoops? I mean we all learned that it helps a lot on our bigger quads. My guess would be that these AIO whoop boards are somehow sensitive for noise as everything is packed very closely together. On the other hand its just 1s and the voltage spikes are
Hi. I do not use an extra capacitor on any of my 1s whoops, but I agree that it probably would reduce the chance of blowing the 5V regulator. I've just never tried on a 1S whoop because I use them for competitive racing and every half gram makes a difference you can feel. In general, I think you are most likely to kill the regulator if you are using the maximum voltage that it supports. For example, a 1S battery on a 1S FC, or a 2S battery on a 2S FC. I think the regulator is more likely to survive if you use a lower voltage like 1S battery on a 2S FC, 2S battery on a 4S FC, etc... That has been my impression anyway. And no, I do not currently use PMB on my racing whoops, but Patrick Clarke does a great job with those tunes. If it's not working out for you, then I suggest you post a question on the Project Mockingbird official Facebook group. I have an old BF3.5.7 tune that I still use on my racing whoops. I think you can find that attached to some of my 1S whoop videos. Good luck!
For outdoor flying with this drone, I like to use 450mah 2S batteries like the ones made by GNB or RDQ. It gets around 3.5 minutes of fast acro flight. More if you fly slower.
@@MrShutterBug Thankyou!! I was expecting more flight time with that battery.. Im building one like this but super light weigh with gnb 2s 300mah 16g. I will share when finish that. good job with the chanel, nice content
Hi I got the same issues jhemucu f405 Fresh board only few flight (no clash) Plug in battery 3x beep and see the vtx without osc (camera connect to external vtx+dvr) Cannot arm or do anything Plug in to computer the board red led light up (usually got another blue one blinking) But can not detect by betaflight 1 thing very different is when i plug in usb and lipo together also no boot up as normal
I just got this drone and was learning fpv in it now this same problem happen to it will you fix this for me I'll pay for your time and will cover the shipping cost?
It's a canopy printed from thingiverse. I can probably dig up the link if you want. Sorry to hear about your cameras. I've broken so much stuff over the years!
@Mr ShutterBug loved this video, I have something quite similar and one to try fixing this but the voltage control says its for 2-6s battery but mine is 1s, can you help me?
9:24 lol.... you showed how you took 5v on the 5 inch esc to led strip if needed.... but then went to the little drone. Well howd you fix the little one?!
When I connect my battery I get nothing but when I connect the USB it powers on do u think this technique would work for a NanoX F4 FS flight controller
I am facing a different problem my fc powers up when I throttle then it’s just about to take off and falls again so the fc restarts I don’t know why please advise
There are several possible reasons. When it falls, do all the motors stop? If so you might have a bad power connection. Does it dip out like one motor stopped? If so it might be an ESC overload or an ESC desync. The latter can sometimes be fixed by lowering the blheli startup power, or increasing demagogue compensation to “high”, or by adding a capacitor, or some combination. But... it is hard to know especially without seeing it. I suggest you record a video and post it on one of the big Facebook groups, like the Power Whoop Group. Then people might spot the problem more easily. Good luck.
Is it just normal for tiny whoop boards to just “die” after a while? My friends and I have gone through several on our drones, granted we crashed a lot when we first got them, but they seem to just crap out under normal use. Sometimes the things just do the janky “death rattle” when yawing, and sometimes it just stops giving video
Unfortunately yes, the failure rate is pretty high across the industry. Cheap manufacturing combined with a harsh working environment (both physically and electrically).
Great video, thanks for the info. So to be clear the 5v out on the regulator can be soldered to any available 5v pad on the board? I am going to attempt this on my tinyhawk 2 race board.
I have not used that particular FC, but yet I would expect any 5v pad to work because I would expect them all to be connected internally. You could verify that using a multimeter (in continuity testing mode). Good luck.
Awesome, thank you. I'm doing some reading online and watching more videos now. 5v regulators are on the way. Thanks again for your time. Much appreciated.
Does it light up at all? Maybe there's a problem with the power connection? Can you connect to the Betaflight Configurator via USB? It's really hard to guess what could be wrong without more info. I suggest you record a video and post it on one of the many FPV groups on Facebook. If the FC can be saved, then someone might be able to point you in the right direction. Good luck!
Great vid! Quick question though- what if you’re only getting Dee dee dee (then silence) BUT there are lights still lighting up? I bought (Friday, so two days ago) a Meteor65 Acro from a local drone store. I got it to successfully bind and it flew AMAZING. The next morning I flew a couple more batteries, ate breakfast, then tried flying another battery and all of the sudden the drone doesn’t work. To be exact, when I plug in a battery, a red light comes on, three beeps sound, then a purple(maybe pink) light starts to blink and nothing else happens. The boot up sequence doesn’t finish, the blue/green lights never start flashing. Nothing. I’ve looked online for answers and even called the local drone store but nobody has heard of this particular problem. Is there any chance you can help me figure out the issue?
It's hard to debug from here, but you could check to see if the problem relates to the 5V regulator by doing the following. 1) When a battery is connected, use a multimeter to test the voltage between the 5V pad and GND on the flight controller. It should read 5V or something close to it. It may be that the regulator is providing partial voltage (less than 1-4V?) which might be enough to power some of the LEDs but not enough to run everything. That's just a guess, but you could test it with a multimeter. 2) Another test would be to connect USB to a computer or power supply, and then connect the battery (or try the opposite order). If it beeps correctly when connected to USB then that is another indication that the regulator might be the problem, because USB provides an alternate power source for the FC. If the FC appears to have the correct voltage on the 5V pad, then it is hard to guess what could be wrong. I would plug it into betaflight and start testing things. Like can you spin the motors individually? Well, good luck! I hope this helps.
If the FC says 2-3S, then I would not expect it to work on 1S. The FC will use 5V for certain functions, including the 5V pads that power accessories. Thus, a 1S FC needs to convert the voltage up to 5V while a 2S FC needs to convert to voltage down to 5V. Those two things require different hardware components. Some FCs have both and can support both 1S and 2S, but others do not.
Hi, interesting Video, I am a newbie, so I always interested in watching and learning. I am having an issue when I try bind my Mobula7 to my FlySky FS-i6s radio, the radio starts beeping and a message comes up saying Turn Off RX!......Have you come across this before? Could it be a setting in Betaflight, or could it be an issue with the quad or radio? Any help would be great, Cheers, MHG
I don't have any experience with FlySky radios, sorry. I suggest posting the question on one of the big Facebook groups like the "Power Whoop Group". Someone with FlySky can probably help you out. Good luck.
Almost all my drones have either Smart Audio or Tramp (the two protocols for VTX control). It has been quite a long time since I build a drone that didn't have it, including whoops.
I have a mystery for you that I'm kind of desperate to fix. If I plug my battery in I only get the startup power tones like this video but the flight controller is powered. If I were to connect the flight controller with a USB battery then plug in a battery I would get all the tones of course. But if I unplug the USB power bank I can still fly the Drone because the flight controller is still functioning. In other words, it seems like my fc is powering up too slowly? A little background. There was a crash a while back. It took a week after that for something to smoke. It was the esc from what I can tell and it smells like it too. I replaced the esc, but this delayed start is still here. This is a 5 inch quad. Any ideas? Edit: in fact, if I disconnect and reconnect the battery really fast I'll get all the beeps. It's killing me. I just want to fly! I found it seems like the blue light doesn't light up. I'll check the 3.3 volt regulator which is what the fc uses. The 5v is for the accessories on mine
That is mysterious! I've never heard of a quad that required USB to boot up, but did not require it after that. As you said, there could be something delaying the FC boot up. I suppose that is possible, but it is equally possible that something is delaying the ECS boot up. If they do not respond when Betaflight tries to initialize them, then I think the same symptoms could occur. So maybe it is timing related, like you suggested. Or... it is possible that either the FC or the ECSs are browing out during the initial plug-in. I'm not sure what would cause that, but I would be very interested to see a plot of voltage over time. Do you have access to an oscilloscope? If so, you could take a look. If nothing else, I suppose you could use a portable USB power bank to jump start it in the field, or you could rig up a small 5V regulator to feel the USB power inputs from battery. Good luck, whatever you decide to try!
@@MrShutterBug I can check voltage over time. I've been looking and I'm wondering if it may be firmware related, but I will report back. Thank you for the reply:)
@@MrShutterBug so power delivery seems okay, but I'll check more tomorrow. More clues. Basically, the fc never starts these times. Betaflight doesn't load, no osd, no blue light on the flight controller. It just sits there with the regulators humming away, powering the reciever, but nobody is home. The code doesn't run. Maybe the cpu? Idk. I can buy another one. That's not a huge deal, but if it's something small that'll bother me. Maybe it is a regulator just barely out of spec. The fc never fails to boot if I blip the quad or plug in with USB. Never ever, so I'll check more power stuff. Thank you
Thanks for the video. I have followed your instructions ... But I have another problem. There is no battery status. Do you know what I should do? Thanks again
@@MrShutterBug, the FC 5v is dead ... so I followed the video ... but I think the FC has another issue because it is not reading the battery voltage, it is blinking "0V" (although is it enabled in the beta flight). Do you have any idea? Thank you very much
@@dpatricksp are you using HV batteries? If the voltage reads too high when you first plug in, then it will flash 0V. If that is the case, try increasing the max cell voltage on the battery tab in betaflight.
Unfortunately no. It was made by betafpv and it came with my TWIG ET5 because there is no other way to reach the USB on that drone. I'll ask them if they can start selling the right angle adapter separately. It certainly is handy!
If your FC has a dead 5v regulator, like mine did, then yes. An external 5v regulator could be another way to restore voltage to the 5v line. But, results vary depending on the condition of the FC. Be careful and take measurements with a multimeter.
@@MrShutterBug I believe it was the 5v regultor becuase I installed this device and now i'm up and running. Only difference is that I didn't cut off the black wire. I had to use that for ground. Thanks for the video!
That's strange. I do not have a Spectrum radio, so I don't know for sure. Does Spectrum have different modes for 8 channel vs 16 channel, like FrSky does? If so, maybe you don't have the right mode selected? Other than that, I would expect it to work. Just plug in a battery to the drone, then press the bind button. If the radio is also in binding mode, then they should link up. If you are confident that you know how to do it, but this one drone doesn't work, then I suggest contacting the manufacturer or the store you bought it from. Good luck.
I believe the same regulators can go up to 6S, but check on the product listing. It looks like Amazon no longer has them in stock though. The regulator would have two sides. One side connects to the battery leads, the other side outputs 5 volts. Good luck!
No, I do not have the knowledge or skill to fix a dead ESC. It would require replacing the damaged component (probably a FET or capacitor) on the surface of the PCB. Sorry.
In this video I used a step-down buck converter to go from a 2S battery to 5V. To apply this fix to 1S whoop you will need a step-up converter from 1S to 5V. I think Wolfwhoop makes buck converters like that too, but I've never used them myself. Good luck!
Mr ShutterBug I used the Matek 5V BEC, quite heavier but worked. I knew it was the BEC with powering with the USB, but Thanks to you I knew where to put it. More power on your channel.
If nothing happens, then you could have a dead 5V regulator like I showed in this video. It is also possible that you could have a problem with your power lead. I would plug in a battery and use a multimeter to test the drone. If the multimeter says the drone has the correct voltage on the VBAT +/- pads, then the power lead is OK. Then I would test a 5V pad. If the multimeter reads 5V between a 5V pad and ground, then the regulator works. If both work, then yes the FC is almost certainly dead. But if the problem is the 5V regulator then you might be able to work around the problem like I showed in this video. Good luck!
@@motome8 yes except you would need a 5v step-converter instead of the step-down converter I used in this video. I have never actually done it to a 1S FC, however because it adds weight and 1S whoop are very sensitive to weight.
Does everything else work when you do not connect the camera? If so then I would say that your 5v regulator is probably fine. Maybe the camera is causing a short circuit? Or maybe it's drawing too much power causing the FC to brown out? It's hard to guess. I suggest you record a video and post it on the Power Whoop group on Facebook. You may get some good suggestions that way. Good luck!
If you want to do the same thing on a 1s board, (if that is possible) what kind of step up regulator would you advice to keep the weight low. Needing around 1a output.
One of these step-up converters would probably do the trick, but I've never tried it myself: amzn.to/3rj6RXp. When my 1S boards die I just replace them because I'm picky about weight on my 1S drones. Good luck!
@@MrShutterBug Awesome, thanks for the reply. It is for a R3D ion zerograv 1s build, so it should handle the little extra weight. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. Just wondering if the 3.5-5.5V input voltage possibly would give problems when the lipo goes below 3.5v.
Hi.. I have an eachine twig 115mm... Betaflight can't recognize the FC.. when I plug the battery or the USB the red and the green lights are solid... Please help.. Thanks in advance
If your FC had a bad 5v regulator, like I discussed in this video, then it would work when powered by usb. Since that doesn’t work, it must be a different problem. Hard to guess what it could be though. Sorry.
@@MrShutterBug when the battery or the USB are plugged in, it works with solid lights.. even the VTX is working.. but there is no " see dee dee " sound ... Anyways. Thanks for answering
Yes. Some FCs have more than one 5v pad, but they are all interchangeable because they are all wired together. You could verify that by testing for continuity with a multimeter.
@@MrShutterBug I ordered a tester but it arrived just a case. can you still solder both the vtx and the buc on the same 5V together without any adverse effects? my mobula 7 crapped out and I want to make sure there's no other place I can use first but the diagram for the original mobula 7 board doesn't label every pads android I see 5 nice fat rounds ones that would be awesome to use one of. thanks in advance. also love your content. keep em coming
@@gaidkey1128 yes, you can solder more than one wire to the same pad, but it is tricky to do. I suggest soldering one short wire to the pad, then splice the other two wires to the free end, making a Y junction with a bit of heat shrink to cover it.
@@MrShutterBug it worked.im putting the newly revived mob 7 guts into the carrera frame kit as im typing this lol just swapping the motors to the 1102 13500kv betafpv motors to make sure it has plenty of power.thank you so much Mr. Shutterbug.
I have fixed the fc according to your method, but there is still no way to display the osd (video out does not respond). Is there a way to fix the Osd problem?
It's hard to guess what could be wrong with the OSD. Did it work previously and then it stopped working? Two common OSD problems are: 1) If Betaflight is set to use NTSC for the OSD, but the camera is PAL (or visa versa), then you will see the camera picture but no OSD. 2) If there is a short between the FC's VI (video in) and VO (video out) pads, then the camera signal will bypass the OSD and go straight to the VTX with no OSD. If it's neither of those things, then I suggest posting about it on one of the big Facebook groups. If you include pictures or video then someone might be able to spot the issue. Or... maybe the OSD is dead. Hard to know. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug It should be the second question, osd may be dead. Although there is no osd, but the flight can be normal, I am already very happy. Thanks for your advice.
Sorry for the late reply. The same problem can happen on a 5 inch drone. The 5V regulator is a common point of failure on flight controllers of all sizes. If your flight controller does in fact have the same problem, then the same solution might work in your case as well.
This one now has the Caddx Ant camera, like I showed. The vtx was made by BetaFPV, but I don’t think they sell that one any more. Any whoop sized vtx would do.
It's simple enough to replace the reg on the board provided the manufacturer will provide the details of the chip so you can source the right one. I've done a few on the happymodel boards, now I ensure I run a suitable cap on all my qauds.
I bought three of the BetaFPV AIO. And all three had this problem from the factory! I’m still trying to get them replaced. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!✌️😎
Toothpicks are fun and all but power whoops keep bringing me back to fly. Love the motor audio too
The sound of the drone is music to my ears! :D While I love music, I don't like flying videos with music. For me music almost always detracts from the video. I almost always mute the sound after a few seconds. I find music to be too distracting.
Thanks for this one Nate, it's a great video. I love informative videos like this one.
I think being able to hear the motor sound is a neat thing. Novice and all can learn/compare throttle modulation with superimposing the audio to the flight. Thank you for your great work. The Beta 85 Pro is one of my favorite fliers as well. So thank you again for making that possible. Have a great week. Im looking forward to building a r3d Ion 3" next...
nice info!
i have a 85pro2 with the very same 3 tones.....then silence...no lights on either...
now i know where to start lol!
love the sound of the motos and gr8 flying as well....youre among the best pilots bro!
Nice work. Thanks for the repair demo. Good to know. I Had the battery leads short out on my basher and now I know a potential way to fix it
Prefer props too. Good to hear when you are throttling up and when not. Keep up de good stuff. Next time I'll fix me my fc. Thanks for saving me money.
Thank you for sharing this video!! I have blown so many 5v regulators on just about everything I have flown. Can't wait to try this some day. Love the little quad screaming during the test flight too!
Very interesting and informative video. Thanks for sharing. 🤓
Prefer motors over music.. nice flying.. thanks for sharing the fix.. nice flying.
Thanks for the video shutterbug! I love hearing the sound of the drones! I really want to see one of your ultra light 1s builds without music.
Both your shutterbug85& 3 inch Baby Toothpick 1s are my favorites I love to watch you rip with Nate that's awesome to finally hear the sound of it in action. Wonderful job on the video very helpful as always!!
So glad you found this, I got 2 boards with this problem now I can fix them and use as spares!!!
You saved a flight controller with this video today. Thank you!
Tried this...no luck.
Wired the inputs in, confirmed I got 5V out the back side.
Wired the 5V input onto the board...then it only reads 0.3-.4V.
Tried another step-down board just in case something was wrong with the first. Same result.
Wired 2(!) on just because. Still nothing.
This is all on a Betafpv 85x.
I wonder if it just doesn't put out enough amps...?
Sadly my shutterbug85 build is currently grounded with a blown esc. I've really got to get that one rebuilt, I miss how well it flew for the size. This is a great tip, hopefully it helps people get new life out of damaged equipment. For the question at the end, I'd probably rather hear the sounds from the flight over background music.
Hearing the motors whine is like music to me already. I like it this way. This makes me want to rebuild my 85! (it burnt an esc when I was messing with blheli_s). I need a good whoop board as a toothpick board won't fit the frame.
You prolly dont give a shit but does anybody know of a way to get back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost the password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Jaylen Damari instablaster ;)
@Nathaniel Matthias Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Nathaniel Matthias It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Jaylen Damari Glad I could help =)
Thanks for this video!! I have a tiny rc boat that I am building. Thought of using a partially disassembled servo as my motor, which should work great as it is both proportional and reversible and hooks right up to the receiver. I was looking for a way to step-down the voltage from a 2s lipo in a small form factor. Servo is really small, so no problems with max current.
The wolfwhoop 5v regs are the best IMO, they're extremely reliable. I personally like to install external 5v regulators on every 2s AIO board I get (when the internal regulator is intact). That way I know I have a reliable 5v regulator thats not gonna randomly burn out in a flying session. I've also found that caps are not needed when using the wolfwhoop regulator.
Honestly the first time I've seen a whoop fly like a 5" with zero issues like washout etc. Nice!
Hello Mr. Shutterbug, I really enjoy your channel
! I feel like your channel is a great mix of info, flying and you're an true innovator to this hobby!!!!!! So, you are shaping the way all of us are doing things
I was wondering if you could help me out with the Betafpv 65s and 65s lite. I can't seem to get.either armed. 1 is the Bayang protocol and the other is Frysky. I've had both for months and neither fly. Ty 4 ur .time
Thanks. I have fun! As for binding, what radio are you using? I use an old Taranis Q X7 radio (from back when they still supported D8 protocol). That's what I use for my FrSky drones, and I have a module that goes in the back when I need the Bayang protocol.
@@MrShutterBug Wow! Can I just tell you that after the Christmas weekend my wife and I had and the luck I've had with other reviewers, I wasn't sure if I would hear from you...., Thank you so much for taking your time to help me out!!! Okay, so I also use a Qx7. I have for years and I seek to fly okay and the range is fine for whoops and a few 2 and 3 inchers. Lol, í have to read th rest of your reply.lol
@@MrShutterBugokay, lol, so as far as buying the module, for 1 it's like 2 months to get 1 from every place I can find. 2nd, I wanted to use a toy grade, Bayang protocol transmitter because I was going to fly the 65s lite in the pool. Of course waterproofing both the transmitter and the quad. That way if I do get either wet it should be no big deal. And since I live in Arizona the pool is an option all year around and there are some great things to fly around in our pool area! So I have probably every toy grade transmitter you can get. I started selling toy grade drones over 5 years and I broke or lost so many, that I have probably 30 transmitters. And the ones that were supposed to work didn't. I should correct myself, they look like they are bound by the lights changing but they won't arm. But I have the 65s and I use the Qx7 and it's funny I had it bound and then it wouldn't work. Again, it was bound but wouldn't arm. Any ideas, thanks again Mr. Shutterbug
@@MrShutterBugokay, lol, so as far as buying the module, for 1 it's like 2 months to get 1 from every place I can find. 2nd, I wanted to use a toy grade, Bayang protocol transmitter because I was going to fly the 65s lite in the pool. Of course waterproofing both the transmitter and the quad. That way if I do get either wet it should be no big deal. And since I live in Arizona the pool is an option all year around and there are some great things to fly around in our pool area! So I have probably every toy grade transmitter you can get. I started selling toy grade drones over 5 years and I broke or lost so many, that I have probably 30 transmitters. And the ones that were supposed to work didn't. I should correct myself, they look like they are bound by the lights changing but they won't arm. But I have the 65s and I use the Qx7 and it's funny I had it bound and then it wouldn't work. Again, it was bound but wouldn't arm. Any ideas, thanks again Mr. Shutterbug
This is a game changer. Just put a quad together and had flown a few test flights after tuning. Then an incident and only three beeps. I've got four 5v pads and one of them is dead, so I am going order up a set of these and give it a shot. Thx!
How did it pan out?
@@ryswe It didn't fix it in this case. There was something more pooched with the board.
Thank you, I'm certain this had been the problem for most of the flight controllers in my dead pile, so frustrating. I'll try this though, seems like it's worth a try. I've a problem with escs on aio 4 in 1 FCs dying also
Using this method for my 1S toothpick, which has a blown 5v reg. Obviously my 1S LiPo will only provide 4.2v, so I need to use a 5V Step-Up/Step-Down Voltage Regulator S9V11F5 to step that 4.2v up to 5v. Doing it tonight, so fingers crossed...
Thank you! I was about to go fly but the drone was like this and a 5v regulator solved it! Although the video now as some black interference.. Maybe the video wire is too close to the 5v or even the vbat wire.. I'll have to see better
Most of the times it's a burned AMS1117 or comparable. Most flight controllers make use of these. They die constantly and are not very forgiving :-/ . But they are cheap and can be easily replaced if you have basic solder skills
Using Hot Air Station is considered Basic Soldering skills now? Removing SMD is not easy specially on a crowded compact and dual sided PCB. My 5 cents.
@@michaelreyes8670 It's a component of the approx., size of a rice corn. Just blob it in with solder and it can be removed. Not harder then for example removing a smd resistor. If you can solder motor wires to a whoop board this should really be no big deal. It's not a 400 pin BGA chip. As for replacing, it's a SOT323 package that could be soldered to the board by hand with the cheapest iron, really nothing special is required
@@VincentFischer Need to a pair of good set of eyes and tweezers with steady hands. lol
You da man. Have had a betafpv hx115 hd sitting for a year because i couldn't bring myself to spend the money on a new aio.
Nice to hear the motor sound, that way we can feel the throttle 🙂
I think that shutterbug with the caddy ant will one day join my fleet !
Hey great video and I have like 3 flight controller with the same problem so now I can look out to fix it thank u.
Depending on the package of the 5v regulator its not hard to replace if you have the right tools and patience.
Oh this might be the issue with my TH2 freestyle board!! Thanks a lot I'm going to try this!
Oh no that's not the issue.. Because for me USB doesn't work either and my video signal was still on.
Congratulations on hitting over 10,000 subs!
I thought I had this happen on my 75mm mobulite 25000kv🤔 it only played half the esc chimes I noticed it was unbound so I bound up and then set it up in beta flight 🙏 🍀... it seems to be a low voltage issue with the mobula6 board.
Really nice vidéo! Thanks! I would have liked to see this earlier! 👍
Great content! Really liking your channel.
Gotta give this a try, thnx again my friend. 😎🎮🤙🏻stay up
Thanks for the dee dee dee thumbnail 😅
Great informative video my brother.
How do you like the fov on the ant?
You should snap the Vreg of the board. Its not good that the board got now 2 Volt sources
Just build my first tiny whoop the only issue I’m having is when I’m arm the drone the motor just twitch in order to get them spinning I have to arm and hit the throttle a little and then it’s a good Any idea what the issue is.
Maybe a combo of music and whoop?
Have this same issue accept there are lights turned on granted it is a skystars f405 so not a whoop. But i am wondering how to go about fixing my drone cause i get the three beeps but the board does show a solid red light
If you have a multimeter, you can test the voltage between the 5V pad and GND. Does it show something close to 5V when you plug in a battery? If not, then you have a bad voltage regulator. If voltage is OK, then something else is wrong. Good luck!
I like to hear the sound of
the drone.
Thanks for your great videos.
In general, would you recommend using a capacitor for 1s 65mm whoops? I mean we all learned that it helps a lot on our bigger quads. My guess would be that these AIO whoop boards are somehow sensitive for noise as everything is packed very closely together. On the other hand its just 1s and the voltage spikes are
Hi. I do not use an extra capacitor on any of my 1s whoops, but I agree that it probably would reduce the chance of blowing the 5V regulator. I've just never tried on a 1S whoop because I use them for competitive racing and every half gram makes a difference you can feel. In general, I think you are most likely to kill the regulator if you are using the maximum voltage that it supports. For example, a 1S battery on a 1S FC, or a 2S battery on a 2S FC. I think the regulator is more likely to survive if you use a lower voltage like 1S battery on a 2S FC, 2S battery on a 4S FC, etc... That has been my impression anyway.
And no, I do not currently use PMB on my racing whoops, but Patrick Clarke does a great job with those tunes. If it's not working out for you, then I suggest you post a question on the Project Mockingbird official Facebook group. I have an old BF3.5.7 tune that I still use on my racing whoops. I think you can find that attached to some of my 1S whoop videos. Good luck!
that lookl and sounds great!! can you tell the battery you are using and the flight time? thankyou!!
For outdoor flying with this drone, I like to use 450mah 2S batteries like the ones made by GNB or RDQ. It gets around 3.5 minutes of fast acro flight. More if you fly slower.
@@MrShutterBug Thankyou!! I was expecting more flight time with that battery.. Im building one like this but super light weigh with gnb 2s 300mah 16g. I will share when finish that. good job with the chanel, nice content
Hi I got the same issues jhemucu f405
Fresh board only few flight (no clash)
Plug in battery 3x beep and see the vtx without osc (camera connect to external vtx+dvr)
Cannot arm or do anything
Plug in to computer the board red led light up (usually got another blue one blinking)
But can not detect by betaflight
1
thing very different is when i plug in usb and lipo together also no boot up as normal
this is exactly what is wrong with my 5".... but i get 5 beeps, just no motor beeps, bout to repair with 5v BEC diatone mamba 6s external....
Guru!
I just got this drone and was learning fpv in it now this same problem happen to it will you fix this for me I'll pay for your time and will cover the shipping cost?
do you fix drones ?....ihave the same issue with a iflight85 that just makes that sound at the very start but it wont start and arm
Well mine was smelling like conformal coat today then the three tones with a solid red and VTX is working. Hopefully this will fix it.
Would rather hear the motors!
Much prefer quad sound over music on reviews / test :)
I have the same stlye of canopy and I broke my second lens. :( is this a modified canopy? As I see your Ant camera sticks out too.
It's a canopy printed from thingiverse. I can probably dig up the link if you want. Sorry to hear about your cameras. I've broken so much stuff over the years!
@Mr ShutterBug loved this video, I have something quite similar and one to try fixing this but the voltage control says its for 2-6s battery but mine is 1s, can you help me?
9:24 lol.... you showed how you took 5v on the 5 inch esc to led strip if needed.... but then went to the little drone. Well howd you fix the little one?!
I showed how I fixed the little drone with a 5v regulator before that part.
But what if it is a 1s board ?
would need a step-up regulator, I guess
Very cool
When I connect my battery I get nothing but when I connect the USB it powers on do u think this technique would work for a NanoX F4 FS flight controller
I am facing a different problem my fc powers up when I throttle then it’s just about to take off and falls again so the fc restarts I don’t know why please advise
There are several possible reasons. When it falls, do all the motors stop? If so you might have a bad power connection. Does it dip out like one motor stopped? If so it might be an ESC overload or an ESC desync. The latter can sometimes be fixed by lowering the blheli startup power, or increasing demagogue compensation to “high”, or by adding a capacitor, or some combination. But... it is hard to know especially without seeing it. I suggest you record a video and post it on one of the big Facebook groups, like the Power Whoop Group. Then people might spot the problem more easily. Good luck.
Thanks allot for your response. I will record a video and post it that would be better.
I love my skull drone frame ! Cant believe you have it too ,,! Lol
Is it just normal for tiny whoop boards to just “die” after a while? My friends and I have gone through several on our drones, granted we crashed a lot when we first got them, but they seem to just crap out under normal use. Sometimes the things just do the janky “death rattle” when yawing, and sometimes it just stops giving video
Unfortunately yes, the failure rate is pretty high across the industry. Cheap manufacturing combined with a harsh working environment (both physically and electrically).
Great video, thanks for the info. So to be clear the 5v out on the regulator can be soldered to any available 5v pad on the board? I am going to attempt this on my tinyhawk 2 race board.
I have not used that particular FC, but yet I would expect any 5v pad to work because I would expect them all to be connected internally. You could verify that using a multimeter (in continuity testing mode). Good luck.
Awesome, thank you. I'm doing some reading online and watching more videos now. 5v regulators are on the way. Thanks again for your time. Much appreciated.
Mine isn’t making the dee dee noise after battery plugged in & no motors going off does that mean only the fc is dead & not the esc?
Does it light up at all? Maybe there's a problem with the power connection? Can you connect to the Betaflight Configurator via USB? It's really hard to guess what could be wrong without more info. I suggest you record a video and post it on one of the many FPV groups on Facebook. If the FC can be saved, then someone might be able to point you in the right direction. Good luck!
Great vid! Quick question though- what if you’re only getting Dee dee dee (then silence) BUT there are lights still lighting up?
I bought (Friday, so two days ago) a Meteor65 Acro from a local drone store. I got it to successfully bind and it flew AMAZING. The next morning I flew a couple more batteries, ate breakfast, then tried flying another battery and all of the sudden the drone doesn’t work. To be exact, when I plug in a battery, a red light comes on, three beeps sound, then a purple(maybe pink) light starts to blink and nothing else happens. The boot up sequence doesn’t finish, the blue/green lights never start flashing. Nothing. I’ve looked online for answers and even called the local drone store but nobody has heard of this particular problem. Is there any chance you can help me figure out the issue?
It's hard to debug from here, but you could check to see if the problem relates to the 5V regulator by doing the following.
1) When a battery is connected, use a multimeter to test the voltage between the 5V pad and GND on the flight controller. It should read 5V or something close to it. It may be that the regulator is providing partial voltage (less than 1-4V?) which might be enough to power some of the LEDs but not enough to run everything. That's just a guess, but you could test it with a multimeter.
2) Another test would be to connect USB to a computer or power supply, and then connect the battery (or try the opposite order). If it beeps correctly when connected to USB then that is another indication that the regulator might be the problem, because USB provides an alternate power source for the FC.
If the FC appears to have the correct voltage on the 5V pad, then it is hard to guess what could be wrong. I would plug it into betaflight and start testing things. Like can you spin the motors individually? Well, good luck! I hope this helps.
What happens if I plug a 1s lipo on a quad that is specified for 2s or 2-3s?
If the FC says 2-3S, then I would not expect it to work on 1S. The FC will use 5V for certain functions, including the 5V pads that power accessories. Thus, a 1S FC needs to convert the voltage up to 5V while a 2S FC needs to convert to voltage down to 5V. Those two things require different hardware components. Some FCs have both and can support both 1S and 2S, but others do not.
Hi, interesting Video,
I am a newbie, so I always interested in watching and learning.
I am having an issue when I try bind my Mobula7 to my FlySky FS-i6s radio, the radio starts beeping and a message comes up saying Turn Off RX!......Have you come across this before? Could it be a setting in Betaflight, or could it be an issue with the quad or radio?
Any help would be great, Cheers, MHG
I don't have any experience with FlySky radios, sorry. I suggest posting the question on one of the big Facebook groups like the "Power Whoop Group". Someone with FlySky can probably help you out. Good luck.
Do your Tiny Whoops support smart audio. Or is that just on certain drones.
Almost all my drones have either Smart Audio or Tramp (the two protocols for VTX control). It has been quite a long time since I build a drone that didn't have it, including whoops.
I have a mystery for you that I'm kind of desperate to fix. If I plug my battery in I only get the startup power tones like this video but the flight controller is powered. If I were to connect the flight controller with a USB battery then plug in a battery I would get all the tones of course. But if I unplug the USB power bank I can still fly the Drone because the flight controller is still functioning.
In other words, it seems like my fc is powering up too slowly?
A little background. There was a crash a while back. It took a week after that for something to smoke. It was the esc from what I can tell and it smells like it too. I replaced the esc, but this delayed start is still here.
This is a 5 inch quad.
Any ideas?
Edit: in fact, if I disconnect and reconnect the battery really fast I'll get all the beeps. It's killing me. I just want to fly!
I found it seems like the blue light doesn't light up. I'll check the 3.3 volt regulator which is what the fc uses. The 5v is for the accessories on mine
That is mysterious! I've never heard of a quad that required USB to boot up, but did not require it after that. As you said, there could be something delaying the FC boot up. I suppose that is possible, but it is equally possible that something is delaying the ECS boot up. If they do not respond when Betaflight tries to initialize them, then I think the same symptoms could occur. So maybe it is timing related, like you suggested. Or... it is possible that either the FC or the ECSs are browing out during the initial plug-in. I'm not sure what would cause that, but I would be very interested to see a plot of voltage over time. Do you have access to an oscilloscope? If so, you could take a look. If nothing else, I suppose you could use a portable USB power bank to jump start it in the field, or you could rig up a small 5V regulator to feel the USB power inputs from battery. Good luck, whatever you decide to try!
@@MrShutterBug I can check voltage over time. I've been looking and I'm wondering if it may be firmware related, but I will report back. Thank you for the reply:)
@@MrShutterBug so power delivery seems okay, but I'll check more tomorrow.
More clues. Basically, the fc never starts these times. Betaflight doesn't load, no osd, no blue light on the flight controller. It just sits there with the regulators humming away, powering the reciever, but nobody is home. The code doesn't run. Maybe the cpu? Idk.
I can buy another one. That's not a huge deal, but if it's something small that'll bother me. Maybe it is a regulator just barely out of spec.
The fc never fails to boot if I blip the quad or plug in with USB. Never ever, so I'll check more power stuff.
Thank you
Thanks for the video.
I have followed your instructions ... But I have another problem. There is no battery status. Do you know what I should do? Thanks again
What do you mean by "no battery status"? Is the battery dead, or do you simply not know the battery voltage?
@@MrShutterBug, the FC 5v is dead ... so I followed the video ... but I think the FC has another issue because it is not reading the battery voltage, it is blinking "0V" (although is it enabled in the beta flight). Do you have any idea? Thank you very much
@@dpatricksp are you using HV batteries? If the voltage reads too high when you first plug in, then it will flash 0V. If that is the case, try increasing the max cell voltage on the battery tab in betaflight.
Drone sound is much better maybe with some low background music ( lo-fi)
Prefer hearing the props/motors over the music :)
I prefer the music 😉😁
Do u have a link for that usb right angle adapter ? I need a slim one like u have
Unfortunately no. It was made by betafpv and it came with my TWIG ET5 because there is no other way to reach the USB on that drone. I'll ask them if they can start selling the right angle adapter separately. It certainly is handy!
So take one end and connect to power leads and the other end to any 5v pad? Am I understanding this right?
If your FC has a dead 5v regulator, like mine did, then yes. An external 5v regulator could be another way to restore voltage to the 5v line. But, results vary depending on the condition of the FC. Be careful and take measurements with a multimeter.
@@MrShutterBug I believe it was the 5v regultor becuase I installed this device and now i'm up and running. Only difference is that I didn't cut off the black wire. I had to use that for ground. Thanks for the video!
How do you fix issue of drone bind function not working? I tried pressing button and also bind_rx command. Mobula6 DSM spi. Thank you!
That's strange. I do not have a Spectrum radio, so I don't know for sure. Does Spectrum have different modes for 8 channel vs 16 channel, like FrSky does? If so, maybe you don't have the right mode selected? Other than that, I would expect it to work. Just plug in a battery to the drone, then press the bind button. If the radio is also in binding mode, then they should link up. If you are confident that you know how to do it, but this one drone doesn't work, then I suggest contacting the manufacturer or the store you bought it from. Good luck.
i have a conelog 25 with the same problem
So my 6s 5” has the same problem, can I use that part u listed for 6s? And where exactly did you solder it to?
I believe the same regulators can go up to 6S, but check on the product listing. It looks like Amazon no longer has them in stock though. The regulator would have two sides. One side connects to the battery leads, the other side outputs 5 volts. Good luck!
can you fix a dead esc on something like the crazy bee f4 ?
No, I do not have the knowledge or skill to fix a dead ESC. It would require replacing the damaged component (probably a FET or capacitor) on the surface of the PCB. Sorry.
Thank you 🙏 🙇. My Mobula 6 lives again. 😎
In this video I used a step-down buck converter to go from a 2S battery to 5V. To apply this fix to 1S whoop you will need a step-up converter from 1S to 5V. I think Wolfwhoop makes buck converters like that too, but I've never used them myself. Good luck!
Mr ShutterBug I used the Matek 5V BEC, quite heavier but worked. I knew it was the BEC with powering with the USB, but Thanks to you I knew where to put it. More power on your channel.
I fixed mine the same way a few weeks ago and bought two more
So curious.. if you plug a battery into a whoop and nothing happenes. Does that mean it’s toast?
If nothing happens, then you could have a dead 5V regulator like I showed in this video. It is also possible that you could have a problem with your power lead. I would plug in a battery and use a multimeter to test the drone. If the multimeter says the drone has the correct voltage on the VBAT +/- pads, then the power lead is OK. Then I would test a 5V pad. If the multimeter reads 5V between a 5V pad and ground, then the regulator works. If both work, then yes the FC is almost certainly dead. But if the problem is the 5V regulator then you might be able to work around the problem like I showed in this video. Good luck!
@@MrShutterBug thank you for your reply, is this the same on a 1s whoop? The FC in question is a bee brain lite
@@motome8 yes except you would need a 5v step-converter instead of the step-down converter I used in this video. I have never actually done it to a 1S FC, however because it adds weight and 1S whoop are very sensitive to weight.
Great info! I have a whoop flight controller that every time I connect the câmera ground the esc don’t beep is that could be the same issue?
Does everything else work when you do not connect the camera? If so then I would say that your 5v regulator is probably fine. Maybe the camera is causing a short circuit? Or maybe it's drawing too much power causing the FC to brown out? It's hard to guess. I suggest you record a video and post it on the Power Whoop group on Facebook. You may get some good suggestions that way. Good luck!
Mr ShutterBug awesome !!will do ,thank you!
drone sound > music
If you want to do the same thing on a 1s board, (if that is possible) what kind of step up regulator would you advice to keep the weight low. Needing around 1a output.
One of these step-up converters would probably do the trick, but I've never tried it myself: amzn.to/3rj6RXp. When my 1S boards die I just replace them because I'm picky about weight on my 1S drones. Good luck!
@@MrShutterBug Awesome, thanks for the reply. It is for a R3D ion zerograv 1s build, so it should handle the little extra weight. Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. Just wondering if the 3.5-5.5V input voltage possibly would give problems when the lipo goes below 3.5v.
Could you not use a vTX that has a 5v out to power the board if it accepts vbat for power?
Yeah, that should work if the VTX can take VBAT and if it can output enough current for the FC and LEDs (if any).
Lookup AKKTEK for some very small buck converters.
Question. Will it matter if i solder the regulated 5v to any 5v pad on the FC. Im trying to fix a mamba 20x20 f4 mk2
If the FC has multiple 5v pads, they should be interchangeable. You could use a multimeter to verify that they are all connected to each other.
@@MrShutterBug thanks so much buddy. Love from PH
How much the volt when’s you connected to betaflight wit this dead volt ?
Ist from 0 and rising up to 60 and more ?
Because i have same problem
Hi.. I have an eachine twig 115mm...
Betaflight can't recognize the FC.. when I plug the battery or the USB the red and the green lights are solid... Please help..
Thanks in advance
If your FC had a bad 5v regulator, like I discussed in this video, then it would work when powered by usb. Since that doesn’t work, it must be a different problem. Hard to guess what it could be though. Sorry.
@@MrShutterBug when the battery or the USB are plugged in, it works with solid lights.. even the VTX is working.. but there is no " see dee dee " sound ...
Anyways. Thanks for answering
@@astemerkhota4923 it was the same with my tinyhawk freestyle, except the osd also went out. I just ended up buying a new board :/
is the 5v pad you are using the same 5v you are using for your vtx/camera?
Yes. Some FCs have more than one 5v pad, but they are all interchangeable because they are all wired together. You could verify that by testing for continuity with a multimeter.
@@MrShutterBug I ordered a tester but it arrived just a case. can you still solder both the vtx and the buc on the same 5V together without any adverse effects? my mobula 7 crapped out and I want to make sure there's no other place I can use first but the diagram for the original mobula 7 board doesn't label every pads android I see 5 nice fat rounds ones that would be awesome to use one of. thanks in advance. also love your content. keep em coming
@@gaidkey1128 yes, you can solder more than one wire to the same pad, but it is tricky to do. I suggest soldering one short wire to the pad, then splice the other two wires to the free end, making a Y junction with a bit of heat shrink to cover it.
@@MrShutterBug it worked.im putting the newly revived mob 7 guts into the carrera frame kit as im typing this lol just swapping the motors to the 1102 13500kv betafpv motors to make sure it has plenty of power.thank you so much Mr. Shutterbug.
I have fixed the fc according to your method, but there is still no way to display the osd (video out does not respond). Is there a way to fix the Osd problem?
It's hard to guess what could be wrong with the OSD. Did it work previously and then it stopped working? Two common OSD problems are:
1) If Betaflight is set to use NTSC for the OSD, but the camera is PAL (or visa versa), then you will see the camera picture but no OSD.
2) If there is a short between the FC's VI (video in) and VO (video out) pads, then the camera signal will bypass the OSD and go straight to the VTX with no OSD.
If it's neither of those things, then I suggest posting about it on one of the big Facebook groups. If you include pictures or video then someone might be able to spot the issue. Or... maybe the OSD is dead. Hard to know. Good luck.
@@MrShutterBug It should be the second question, osd may be dead.
Although there is no osd, but the flight can be normal, I am already very happy.
Thanks for your advice.
The weird thing is my esc also overheats a lot so I don’t know what to do. Cant connect to beta flight either :( any solutions?
I also do get the lights but only 3 beeps but when I plug in usb no lights
Sounds like you might need a new FC if you can’t connect to it via usb.
What if it’s happening on my 5 inch
Sorry for the late reply. The same problem can happen on a 5 inch drone. The 5V regulator is a common point of failure on flight controllers of all sizes. If your flight controller does in fact have the same problem, then the same solution might work in your case as well.
Very badFC beta I have a lot dead, I never buy it ! 😔
Which camera and vtx did you choose?
This one now has the Caddx Ant camera, like I showed. The vtx was made by BetaFPV, but I don’t think they sell that one any more. Any whoop sized vtx would do.
@@MrShutterBug might just go with 85 pro 2 instead of building
Smd is brutal. I buy practice kits and I'm still not very good
Can I buy that whoop off u it would be honor
3rd
15 thousand views and only 576 likes. That's crazy wrong. 😲
I wish I had one of these 🙂
Build one! It's fun!
@@MrShutterBug Yep. But the sad thing is in my country "Sri Lanka" drones are so expensive and building even a toy grade FPV is a nightmare
@@MrShutterBug I'm dying to afford one of these toy-grade FPV. Btw I like your videos and they are so interesting
bom