Atari Paperboy Arcade AR-III AR3 Power Supply Rebuild Cap Kit and Troubleshooting
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- čas přidán 5. 05. 2019
- In this video we will install the Arcade Shop AR-III rebuild and cap kit and test the 2N3055 and TIP32 transistors and replace the audio amps.
Enjoy the vids? Consider supporting me! Thank you, John! youtube.streamlabs.com/johnsa... - Hry
I love how you don't even acknowledge the new popcorn machine. Lol. As far as the power supply goes, I consider all of these videos that end this way a learning experience. That's one of the things I enjoy about this channel. We get to see the times where things don't go exactly as planned and we learn from it.
New popcorn machine? He never broke it, that was just a dream.
May 2020 - Atari Paperboy Arcade AR-III AR3 Power Supply - Part 23
PLEASE NO. :)
No spoilers pls :P
i WOULD HAVE WISHED ,-,
@@Johnsarcade PLEASE HELP me I bought a game and played for like 20 minutes and the monitor cut out then smoke came out and now nothing!
Power supply repair and even bonus John's Kitchen interludes, sweet.
Thank you for posting another video again so soon. I hope you enjoy it like you used to and have time to make the videos. I've been going to my John's Arcade support group for the last few months and it has helped with the absence of you videos, most notably the year end review and John's Kitchen videos.
Nice to watch a new video! Went to the Manchester play expo this weekend. Was a pretty good experience and got to play many old classics. It's a shame it was mamed by tons of the games either having no sound, unresponsive buttons/joysticks or just not working at all. They had a deluxe outrun with a wheel with no resistance so you crashed really easily, a deluxe space harrier that wouldnt go to the top of the screen. They need your restoration skills! What was good is that I got to play many games I havent been able to play on mame due to dedicated controls such as tempest and robotron. Pretty cool. It did make me appreciate my pandoras box though. Some of the games i tried did look and play better on my box than on the original cabinets. My purist attitude has been knocked a bit. It did take me right back to the 80s and was REALLY busy on the arcade cabs.
Desoldering tip: leave the tip on the joint for a couple of seconds and wriggle the tip in a circle before hitting the trigger.
I forgot about John's kitchen videos. Nice to see it back
Yes you used my magnetic bowl! Thanks buddy. So glad you are back. This made my day!. Good to see you smoking also. I have a Grilla Grills Silverback. If that Traeger ever takes a dump you can't beat Grillas customer service and the things built fantastic. I have smoked in -5 degree weather and it keeps its temp perfectly and the cost is very good.
Good lord I cut my teeth on most of the games you have. Been an arcade tech/service tech/manager for over 25years. (Still doing it!)
In the past where it was just the +5 +12 -5 we used to just remove the old linear supplies and mod them over to a newer style switching supply.
Nice to see someone dive into the original supply!
Boy I sure miss these weekly videos....they are my inspiration....
These kind of episodes are my favorites.
Your videos are great. When I saw the grill it reminded me of baking my Xbox 369 board in the oven to reflow the solder to get rid of the rrod.
New popcorn machine is looking good!
Aah, a new basement desk setup and guitar pedal review video.
Gamehulk guitar pedal review! Yes please!!!
Dude welcome back! I was starting to worry we had seen the MK get rid of ya, I swear I have not seen any videos here since the Final video on that cab. Just glad to see you pop up my friend.
John's new channel: John's Assorted Meat Products Taste Tests and Reviews
Funny to see you testing your desolations without the vacuum chamber. 😂
I appreciate this long-form approach. I must admit, though, I kept chuckling every time this guy almost destroyed his lab station.....like watching a gorilla that learned to solder! You've got my thumbs up!
Feel nostalgic and claustrophobic all in one spot!
Work had set up one of those Pac-Man 1Up's in the break room. They are indeed amazing to play when seated. I wouldn't have thought it until I tried it. And I am glad to see the company isn't backing down from that lack luster Christmas season. Looks like they got some new ideas on the horizon. Like counter top versions and wall mounts. What I am hoping for...a cocktail table model. They do have a prototype of one.
And welcome back, John. :)
John. the Hakko should sit on the join for a second to let the solder melt properly before engaging the vacuum. it should be enough to run it once. not only is the barely melted solder more likely to solidify in the tube and cause blockages, it's also wearing out faster than it needs to
Could be a fault on the logic board which is dragging the power supply down. Power supply could be fine. Doesn't look like there is a fuse in the 5V rail, if there was, it would probably blow.
Yeah my thought is a short to ground on a power rail somewhere on the main PCB too
Holy crap we're those eyeglasses on your bench? Welcome to the club!
It's all downhill from here :)
@@VAX1970 oh yeah(nodding in agreement.,) and on cooking with John some more meet that he cooked with nice side dishes.
I can tell, you're getting burnt out from this hobby. Most things don't last, I get it man.
w0t? burnt out? lolz... the man has how many circuit breakers in his basement?
nah... need to find a new conquest- make the 'grails' work again - sell 'em - *this fight is NOT OVER* ;)
@@jimg.708 😉👍
John, really liked your channel. Hope you come back to make more videos
Wow, I think you got more excited about that delicious-looking superbly roasted pork than you have about almost any repair you've done, John, judging by how much more of that Herald Angels Christmas music with the stars, outside of the Christmas season, that you put over this meat, than over a repaired game, haha!
Awesome vid John mate, I'm starving now though after seeing that meat!
Some amazing bird sounds I never heard before 12:33
Blue Jay!
Love your videos. I started making my own videos and doing some DIY projects.
One quick sujestion John.
Test the continuity between the ground and the 5volt pins on the board and see if you have resistance .
By the way. Next time I'm up I will bring the special drill bit to unclog your Hakko FR-300. It's a manual tool that you twist and it cuts through the clogged solder inside.
Also, no need to shake the bit when trying to take it off. There are tabs on the side of the grab tool. Squeeze them and it grips it so it slides off. Magic!
with the AR3 voltages correct wasn't really expecting the rebuild to help. having isolated a problem to range of cheap parts shotgunning might be fine but shotgunning the wrong board might just create new issues where none existed. easiest way of debugging voltage drop is probably your finger, shorted component is likely to get hot.
Might of been useful to use time lapse for some drawn out parts. Nice to see you back!
Great way to start food brings us all together , so While I was watching couldnt stop thinking about the bbq , love your videos brother , dont you just love how the old stuff is easier to replace , I should do more of this on my channel I know my Silent scope has a vertical collapse problem some tie when I turn it on , good old slap on the side fix's it for now , cheers John hope my channel picks up " Marcho arcade "
It might be worth looking into getting a cheap thermal imaging camera. There are versions (you can find them on eBay and elsewhere) that plug into your phone (android and iPhone). You can then use them to track down hot spots (and likely shorts) on PCBs. I've used a Seek Thermal for android, which worked well, and those can cost about $200. I think Ian used one in one of your videos to troubleshoot an issue. There are cheaper, generic Chinese versions (look for HT-102) for around $100 as well as ones that don't need a phone (search HT-175) that cost around $150.
There's also a much cheaper method of spraying isopropyl/rubbing alcohol on an area of the PCB. It should evaporate instantly wherever there's a hot spot. I've never tried it myself, but I've seen that approach used often in troubleshooting Macbook and iPhone motherboards.
Nice u makin videos again man!
Hi John.
I think You may have a short on the pcb.
If You're getting the 5volts then you have a good power supply .
If you have another power supply that you know works then try it out.
Nice slow motion meat shot and christmas music lol!
1:40 That popcorn machine is your best restoration so far.
Love your ch man!!!
Nice john..i just know you will make that PSU great again!!!
I kind of like what John did here with this taking a break and enjoying some other stuff for a minute. That's what my cousin. If you stick on one thing all the time everyday you're going to burn out. Then I don't think any of us want to burn out on this Hobby I love it too much to get burn out on it.
Yeah, I wouldn't want him to burn out either. But then... why do you think "[h]obby" is some sort of brand?
@@HelloKittyFanMan. I really don't think the Hobby and itself is a brand but having CZcams personality is. We're having any celebrity status his and you want to keep that alive and well
@@RobertGuido: OK, extra commentary that beats around the question, hehe. Well, if you don't think the word "[h]obby" is a brand, then why do you capitalize it like it is one?
John
We love you with ,or without glass
Sorry it didn't work out shotgunning it. When I rebuilt the linear power supply in my Space Invaders I literally had to replace every part in it. You'll fix it. I have faith.
What if you took a switcher and put 5v and ground to that game board header and see if you still have low voltage reading at your game board test point. That would confirm or remove the A/R-III from the equation, no?
Just a general comment I really enjoy your videos very informative. Just wondering why you dont have a Spy Hunter though, think u need to add that to your collection. Would like to see some repair videos of it.
Welcome to the glass eyes club
:-)
I saw that too!! I thought to myself "Safety glasses? that is not like John, then I realized...
@@netropolis
He say" the times goes on something like that.
John needs glass"
Those transistors have been replaced before or they would have the old mica insulators, not the newer grey thermal pads, i would have re-capped the board before even touching the IC's.
it's funny to keep hearing new interpretations for OL. "over limit", "open line", "overload", "open loop". any other ones?
I'm not an electrician or EE or anything, but I'm pretty sure the "correct" term is "Over Limit", as in over the limit of what the meter can read. Even through air, there is technically a measurable resistance it's just far outside what a meter is capable of since air is a pretty good insulator. So a null reading is "over the limit" not really "zero". You may find you can measure the resistance of your body, though. :)
Your videos are fantastic. Haven't seen a new one in awhile. Everything ok?
Makes it a lot easier with glasses doesn't it! One can SEE one MUST see! ;)
@36:22 Ha ha ha, "Three in the front...and two in the back."
We're back!!
New popcorn machine!! 😎
Yay new video!!!
Hi John, I saw you had glasses, I guess you finally gave in and brought them, how are you finding them ? I now have them for close work and also some bi focal for everyday use, but I just cant get on with the bi focal.
Since he has 5v when not under load, I think his power supply is good and he has a short on the game PCB. I've had that problem once before.
Yes I'm aware that can be an option I really hope that's not the case
Something else is dragging the voltage down, freeze spray or your finger and start hunting :). BTW transistors can ohm fine, but fail when you turn them on (when they starts getting hot), but you have change them so thats not your problem here
"I can't keep working on this..." for how long?
There was an epidemic of counterfeit 2N3055s in circulation at this time, where did you get them?
John!! I’m getting a Berzerk that has board issues, I need some advice do I send it off to get fixed and if so where? Or do I put in a new multi board in I’ve found one online the has Berzerk plus two other games on it but I’ll have to get an adapter, I am not good with troubleshooting or fixing this stuff but I’m getting this cabinet working condition for 50 bucks I cannot pass it up, however I need some advice thanks John and I’m glad you’re back!!!!
Is the JROK berzerk board still available? I'd get that. It's FPGA. www.jrok.com/
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech awesome John thanks man!! I’ll need an adapter right?
@@bigbeardedbeastcollector9404 I think it's JAMMA? I don't know. I think it has a jamma edge connector.
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech thanks for all your help John
There must be an adapter as I know a lot of people use that in original cabinets. I Never personally looked into it.
Say, check the 5v again without load on the power lead. Set to 5V power off, then plug it in power on and test from the back of that connector. If the power has dropped it's a good chance you have a filter cap or other components on the paperboy PCB shorted drawing the power down. Sadly this could be nearly any one of the IC on that board. If there is 5v on the connector but not your 5v test point, again the paperboy PCB. Check the traces and resistors on the 5v to that point as something in the path could be burned cracked or devalued. Look for a hot IC, would be nice if you had a flir IR camera or something similar to view the board, specifically the IC for a hot point. You probably have this idea already, but figured I'd toss it out.
could there be an excess power drain from the PCB you're connecting to? Could you test the power supply on a different PCB to compare? Good luck, and looking forward to your next video.
yeah thats what i am thinking,,,,,, something must be getting hot
Ooh just got me a Kamado Joe. How are you prepping those potatoes? That looks good...
I'm speechless!
You should make sure the paperboy video board hasn't got a 5v to ground short on it using a multi meter. You could be doing all this work on the power supply for it to be fine all along.
I'm afraid this might be true.
You forgot the journey monitor?
Also exhausted you?
Any on the road videos coming up
How's the Paperboy coming along?
Guess who's back...
Back again 😏
No fair showing us that pulled pork!!
That pork looked good 👍👍👍
Poopie pants 😂😂 lol fair play how was that for you?
Poopie pants well as long as you had a good time fair play me son 👍👍
Did u ever get to fix this ar III power board u were working on
How old are those 2 old small e. caps?
what games left the building to make room for your new setup?
Journey and Quantum.
OMGWTFBBQTGIFTMI A NEW JOHN'S ARCADE VIDEO! 🎉🎊🥳💃
@Poopie pants ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Hey John..hope things are ok with you
John
Another grill video
Is tasty
.9v, how do you know it is not a short circuit in the load and by that way the PSU trigger the protection?
I checked 5v to ground. It's not shorted
@@Johnsarcade I am sure you already fixed it, right? if not, set a dummy load, 4.7 ohm for load 1A atleast 7W the resistor..., and it will do the require time to measure the output.
Soon be time for the next Year End Video 2019 !
He's a passive-aggressive CZcamsr. Has nothing but disdain for his subs.
Didn't Adam have this issue on a board he was working with? Ended up being a cap on the game pcb. Or I might be thinking about something else.
The hawk in the BG is screaming
It's a crow or a bluejay I think
Amazing #100
Can those de soldering guns be used on Computers or are they specifically for arcade repairs
If board can has solder, gun can has desolder
Also, there are cheaper models than the hakko, though all are expensive for what they do. I have a cheap one made of chinesium and I baby it. Jan Beta recommends a chinese one that I've had good luck with. It's an Anesty ZD-915 (you can ignore the brand name, as the same model is sold under different names).
Oh my god that meat looks so fricken good XD
"The shotgun did not fix it." Well, ya haven't really shotgunned a board until _every_ component that you can replace has been replaced.
"there"s resistors" ! Yup, those things are way to hard to check ?
New popcorn machine? Last video shows it still bent up.
Looks like you got the meat of the problem at the end of the video
John are you coming back please tell me you are
Must be old footage - the popcorn machine is fully intact.
did john hunt down the same model popcorn machine on ebay or did he fix it, or....wait, have the machines become sentient and self replicating????
They sell it at Aldi.
F for Journey and Quantum.
Especially Journey. All the time we spent watching the restore.
Well journey is in a museum where it really should be. It's a piece of history after all.
Brenden Smith Wait so that’s where Johns Journey is? How do you know?
@@tigerrocks503chase8 he talked about it on his livestream on twitch. I feel like he mentioned it on his podcast as well
what is the switcher for on the side of the cab ?
For the CPU board
@@Johnsarcade yeah I worked that out after I asked LOL
I know the spider leg thing can sometimes go bad ??
That brown glue on the caps looks like the kind that becomes conductive when it gets old. Stick your meter probes in it and check the resistance.
www.siber-sonic.com/audio/carnage.html
"I just replaced all of the caps on this side," but then "this cap... is not part of the kit, so we're not replacing that one." LOL, OOPS!
Ha, I’m smoking on my Traeger as I watch this video.
hi john how have you been when is your next video as its been quiet lol
Probably next weekend. Got busy this weekend with family stuff
Can't tell you how many times I've said that same thing about wanting the transistor to test BADLY. when they test GOOD, it's like WOMP WOMP...Try something else! So much work to get those fuckers OUT.
Sucking up flux helps to clog the hakko desolder gun.
Missing your vids bud.
When the potentiometer isnt working. Try replacing it. And recap it.