Nice video. I am using the 750watts model (DPS 750RB-A bought for $20) to power my e-telescope (Astrophotography rig). I haven't modified it as I don't need to, but this powersupplies are indeed great and superior quality. This power supply provides 12 volts to another DIY little box with current and voltage monitor module, fuses, and various 12v and 5v USB outputs. All the outputs are protected by independent fuses rating from 1-5amps.
Thanks a lot for your comment! It is not easy to invest time in this since I have been working very hard the last 5 years. I did not have spare time at all to work in my own projets. Now I am back with some new stuff. I hope you enjoyed it and learn something!
I added a 470k resistor and turned the pot up and get 12.45 volts. I need to get it to 15 so I wanted avoiding doing the overvoltage setup but I'm just going to take my time. I have 6 of these supplys.
@killerconsoles527 thanks for this info. Can I ask where you found it? Another video shows just linking out 33&36 and whilst this worked on the bench, as soon as I connected to the car it the PSU would shut down. I didn’t have a 330 ohm resistor, so tried your method. Solved my problem. Many thanks
hello and thanks for your amazing tutorial! wish you a happy year with good luck! could you please measure HSTNS PL11 lenght, wide and height? thank you
Hi mate I finally got the pl11. fitted it all in an enclosure, set to 14.15v, not fitted a amp meter yet but tested on a van with a totally dead battery and with interior blower on full, lights on full and reflashing a ECU it dropped to 13.7v not sure if normal to drop but there was literally 0v in the battery? None of the leads got hot, never felt the actual PSU as touched it while setting voltage with side off and got a right nasty shock. Thanks again
Very nice job! I think that PSU is way overkill for your motorcycle. I was expecting you to put it on a car. I would rather use 13.6 V than 14. It's easier on the battery. (Charging requires 14.4 V, but once the battery is charged, the voltage should be reduced to 13.6 V.)
hello congratulations perfect and professional work can you explain how to raise the voltage of another power supply it is about dps-1200fb-1 a if you want I can send you pictures of the main board. Thanks and have a nice day
Dont worry mate! I am using 2 internal wires per pole rated up to 40A each so it is enough for peak power needs. (You can check it in this site for example www.cse-distributors.co.uk/cable/technical-tables-useful-info/table-4e1a/ ) I have drilled 3 holes so I can increase it with a 3 pararalel wires per pole. I need it to be removible and maleable so this is why I am not using a 'huge thik wire'. I was thinking on change the wires by a copper plate with the desired shape but I need to buy some tools for doing that. For connecting the PSU to a bike I am using a single 6mm2 wire (Bike rarely pulls more than 15A...) For connecting the PSU to a car, I am using a single 25mm2 wire with suitable clamps, more than enough for this purpose (40A are the max current I have seen while connecting to a car) But thanks a lot for your advice! Appreciate it! I am checking the temperature regularly whlie using it just to feel confident with the system Best regards, Jose.
Hi, thank you very much for the video, but I have a problem maybe you know what could be, I did all as the video, when I check the ouput it shows 14,2V but when I connect it to the car it drops to 0, any clue about this problem? Seems like a problem with the OVP but it’s all done exactly as in the video. Thank you!
@darknwo18 Hey, I’ve the same problem … without a load it shows 14.2v output. But when connect to car the psu powers down (showing 12v of battery) did you manage to solve it?
@@johnsbond I don’t know where’s the problem exactly but as a workaround, I connect it, then it goes to 0, then from the switch I turn it off then turn on again and it works (if you put the switch between the PSU and the cables).
@@darknwo18 so you've added a switch on the cables leaving the PSU before they reach the car connectors. Did you just switch one pole (ie positive or negative) or both? Much appreciated
@@johnsbond The switch is to turn on/off the 12v protection, if it’s on it can output 14v, when it’s off it just outputs 12v. So with the switch on, I put the cables on the car terminals (or battery) and it goes to 0v, then I change the switch to off, then back on, and outputs 14v. If you connect the cables to the car terminals with the switch off and then turn it on, it just goes to 0v, so thats’s the only workaround the I’ve found.
Hello great video, your 3D case is awesome. I have a question? What is the exterior size of the square nut that you put in each bracket that holds on the front cover.
I have recycle nuts for 2020 aluminium profiles. This is because have a special shape that hold in place when you tighten them. You can use any other method that can hold the bracket like washers. Regards.
Awesome video. Going to attempt this project soon cause I need to program my bimmers. Im adding most of the parts you listed in your desc. And gonna stop by HD or Ace for the rest. What is that thing you put on pin 32-36? It looks like 6 spikes (where the resistor gets soldered to?
At the very first moment, I was thinking on use the i2C interface to communicate with an arduino board just to measure the current, Voltage, temp and other parameters using internal sensors so I decided to solder those poles to connect a flat wire. Finally I did not have enought time to investigate so I decided to buy an external Volt/Amp meter. Finally I removed those poles. Regards.
3:09 Blue, Grey, Red, Gold -> 6.8K 5%. Maybe the colors of the camera are not very clear... And yes, 6K8 is way I was taught to represent the values. But yes, it means 6.8K. Best regards.
Thanks for this. I’ve do this as explained, I got up to 14v but when I powered down the PSU and back on again it instantly drops from 14v to 0v the fans spin really fast and then off. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance for any advice.
My fan changes it speed depending on the PSU needs. I think it is a protection mechanism to prevent overheat when you power off the PSU. When you do that, how much time does the PSU need in order to deliver 14v again? Regards
Hi, the metal box measures are: 196x86x38mm If you also want them adding the handle, the fan and he large connector pin, the measures are: 237x40x86mm Regards.
Not sure, this is not a battery charger, this is a power supply. Based on my experience, when the battery is fully charged the Amp meter drops but I dont think this can consider as a power cut when battery is fully charged.
What problem do you have? You have to install the 'shunt' in between the negative pole of the PSU. Then, your display shold have 5 wires: - Thin wires: Black: PSU Ground (psu wide negative pole) Red: Power for meter (cuold be the same than yellow, but I connected it to pin 37: 12VSB, that is 12V in standby) Yellow: Positive pole of the volt you want to measure (the wide positive pin) - Thick wires: Red: Shunt input (psu wide negative pole) Black: Shunt output (load negative pole) Regards.
I tried building one to your specifications but it ended up blowing itself up after 20 mins on the bench. Granted, it wasn’t connected to load as I wanted to see if it was stable before connecting it to a car. Could this be the result of current rippling, without a load attached?
I dont know what was your problem... I have used it many times (either with load or without it) with no issues... Sessions flashing motorbikes with 10A of consumption for more than 4 hours with no single problem... Could it be a coincidence? Regards.
I would like to ask what is the second resistor needed, is it really 6k8 ohms? Also I have no 3d printer and so I would like to know where I can possibly buy the 3d printed end caps for the psu? Thank you.
How did you deal with the voltage difference between the power supply and battery when you connect them? Will the ~1V difference cause problem to power supply or battery?
No issues at all... Connect & flash. You only notice that at the first minutes, the PSU delivers more power and then it decreases. I suppose it is because the battery is topping up the first minutes and finally only the ECUS are demanding current. Best regards
Pin 37 is VCC in stand-by (12V when plugged to AC) GND is connected to main GND lead (38 I guess, the biggest one) Using this pins, you will feed the display with 12v even when the main output is set to 14V. See this picture: www.qsl.net/yo4hfu/Files/HP_HSTNS/HSTNS_Pinout.jpg
A 10mm bolt for each pole. The positive is connected directly to the PSU using 3 wires and some crimped connectors. The negative is directly attached to the shunt with a bolt. Regards.
@@JoseJJn okay so all three negative 10AWG wires to the post on the shunt and all three positive 10AWG wires to the positive post? Any pics of how you wired the volt/amp meter would be great too, mine did not come with a wiring diagram. Thanks.
@@Broeils Because it is mandatory in order to connect the Amp meter. If you dont want the Display then, it is not necessary. As far as I know, these PSU have a DATA PORT you can comunicate with, and using it you can read the delivered power and status (temp, volts, amps, etc) using an Arduino for example but I did not have enough time to investigate. Regards.
@@twinscrolled Yes, this is my set-up because I want to manage up to 80A in the worst scenario. The best way to do this could be using copper bars instead of wire, or maybe AWG4 wires (25mm2)... The shunt is easy to connect. The Volt/Amp meter has 5 wires: - Positive feed -> To pin - Negative feed - Volt meter - Amp meter - Negative meter The Shunt is between the negative pole and the negative PSU output. The feed for the display is connected to the 12V StandBy output of the PSU The negative meter is connected to the shunt (in the PSU side) The amp meter is connected to the shunt (in the POLE side) The volt meter is connected to the large positive output of the PSU (~14volts output) Let me find a proper picture and I will share it. Regards.
hola Jose!!!! yo no tengo mucha idea de soldadura pero si que estoy metido en el tema de codificaciones y necesito un estabilizador, en cuanto mas o menos podría salir uno como el tuyo. Gracias
Buenas! Si te lo quieres hacer 'como éste' y sin meterte en la parte del amperimetro y la carcasa 3D con 100€ en piezas te llega. Es decir, la fuente con dos cables gordos de 16mm y un par de pinzas. Igual te pueden soldar las resistencias en una tienda de electrónica por menos de 30€. Las comerciales rondan los 500€ Saludos!
@@JoseJJn muchas gracias por tu respuesta!!! Por un por si acaso tú no las haces para vender? Sería interesante 😀, te he escrito en otro vídeo tuyo sobre lo del TFT…. Haces tú el la codificación? Un saludo y gracias
@@Gergus_ Hola, la verdad es que no me planteo venderlas... al final hay que buscar tiempo y tal para hacerlas y por desgracia no me sobra :( por eso dejé de publicar videos incluso. Sí, los TFT los instalo yo. Me ayuda un colega que lo usé de conejillo de indias jeje. Un saludo.
I am not sure... Maybe the same. You can adjust the final voltage by tunning the potentiometer. I this does not work for you, you will have to try by yourself.
10 AWG is rated for 30Amps. I am using 3 wires in parallel so 90amps would be managed without problems. Tipically, no more than 30Amps are drawn in my regular coding sessions. It will be better if you use copper bars instead of wires but I did not have them when building my setup. Regards.
I am not very skilled at 3D Printing, I mean I had to print it 3 times until the quality was good enough to be ready to use. The firsts attempts ended with errors such as warping, deformations, etc. :( I published my models. Maybe is better to ask a professional of 3D printing. At least, in my city you can find some people that can print them for you for an affordable price. Best Regards
@@JoseJJn Thanks for replying, My idea was to drill holes on the + - of psu. Buy a set of jump leads and cut the ends off one side and crimp large eyelet connector to them and just use a nut and bolt to attach to psu. obviously using jump leads and eyelet in excess of 100amp. do you see any problem with this if jump leads kept to 1m or under?
@@killerconsoles517 Your idea should work but check the surfaces in contact between the eyelet and the power pad. I drilled holes too but I prefered to install 3 connectors per hole due to the size of the power pad (long but thin). My first apporach was to install 6 eyelets per pole: 3 holes, one eyelet per hole and side, but finally I installed only 3 since, I am not going to go beyond 50 amps while programming. The other solution I have seen is to solder a thick wire all over the surface of the power pad. This is the only issue I see to your setup. With only one eyelet, you could create a hot point between the eyelet and the contact surface. The length of the wires I dont think it could be a problem. Just keep an eye to them the first times you use it and check the temperature of the contact points. Regards.
are you using a fake hp psu? because yours seem different. All hp 1200w psu have blue power connector but your is black. i bought the same psu and I am afraid if I purchased a counterfeit.
I first bought a PD19 and realized there is no real guide to this psu, I have now ordered a PL11 as in this video and the connectors are black, I beleieve there is als a solution for PD19 and that has blue connector.
@@JoseJJn I am going to order the parts - can you help me with the aliexpress link. Thingiverse says' not found'. I want to get the same parts as you used so they fit the printed parts.
Nice video. I am using the 750watts model (DPS 750RB-A bought for $20) to power my e-telescope (Astrophotography rig). I haven't modified it as I don't need to, but this powersupplies are indeed great and superior quality. This power supply provides 12 volts to another DIY little box with current and voltage monitor module, fuses, and various 12v and 5v USB outputs. All the outputs are protected by independent fuses rating from 1-5amps.
They are a great discover. Cheap, reliable, very powerfull, not so big and easy to find.
Very professional and neat work！ Many thanks for sharing.
Great video, thanks. Nice to see you back making videos again.
Thanks a lot for your comment!
It is not easy to invest time in this since I have been working very hard the last 5 years.
I did not have spare time at all to work in my own projets.
Now I am back with some new stuff.
I hope you enjoyed it and learn something!
@@JoseJJn certainly did, thank you.
And appreciate the time that goes into these videos all too well 👍
I added a 470k resistor and turned the pot up and get 12.45 volts. I need to get it to 15 so I wanted avoiding doing the overvoltage setup but I'm just going to take my time. I have 6 of these supplys.
Also there is a correct way to power these with a 22k resistor between pin 37 & 36 then pin 33 to ground turns it on which you can wire to a switch.
@killerconsoles527 thanks for this info. Can I ask where you found it? Another video shows just linking out 33&36 and whilst this worked on the bench, as soon as I connected to the car it the PSU would shut down. I didn’t have a 330 ohm resistor, so tried your method. Solved my problem. Many thanks
@@johnsbond rc forum, found by Google search, they use them to charge lipo battery's, used mine quite a few times and still going strong.
Thank you so much for sharing with us!!!👏👏👏👏👏
hello and thanks for your amazing tutorial! wish you a happy year with good luck! could you please measure HSTNS PL11 lenght, wide and height? thank you
Hi mate I finally got the pl11.
fitted it all in an enclosure, set to 14.15v, not fitted a amp meter yet but tested on a van with a totally dead battery and with interior blower on full, lights on full and reflashing a ECU it dropped to 13.7v not sure if normal to drop but there was literally 0v in the battery? None of the leads got hot, never felt the actual PSU as touched it while setting voltage with side off and got a right nasty shock.
Thanks again
Very nice job! I think that PSU is way overkill for your motorcycle. I was expecting you to put it on a car. I would rather use 13.6 V than 14. It's easier on the battery. (Charging requires 14.4 V, but once the battery is charged, the voltage should be reduced to 13.6 V.)
hello congratulations perfect and professional work can you explain how to raise the voltage of another power supply it is about dps-1200fb-1 a if you want I can send you pictures of the main board. Thanks and have a nice day
Have you figured it out? I have the same dsp and can't find any fix for this.
Great Video, exactly what i needed, you know if HSTNS-PL29 will be the same proceedure?
Thanks
hey , the aliexpress links are expired , anyway you can post updated ones? planning on doing this same mod.
If any one is looking to have the parts printed let me know.
Yes I would like to have a set of two printed
What is the price
Hallo...please can you take a picture of connector? What is under cover? Please so much. Thank you.
Tip: solder the cables to the power supply as well as put thicker cables!
Dont worry mate! I am using 2 internal wires per pole rated up to 40A each so it is enough for peak power needs. (You can check it in this site for example www.cse-distributors.co.uk/cable/technical-tables-useful-info/table-4e1a/ )
I have drilled 3 holes so I can increase it with a 3 pararalel wires per pole.
I need it to be removible and maleable so this is why I am not using a 'huge thik wire'. I was thinking on change the wires by a copper plate with the desired shape but I need to buy some tools for doing that.
For connecting the PSU to a bike I am using a single 6mm2 wire (Bike rarely pulls more than 15A...)
For connecting the PSU to a car, I am using a single 25mm2 wire with suitable clamps, more than enough for this purpose (40A are the max current I have seen while connecting to a car)
But thanks a lot for your advice! Appreciate it! I am checking the temperature regularly whlie using it just to feel confident with the system
Best regards,
Jose.
Good luck soldering beefy cables, they just suck all the heat away.
Any photo or video on how and where you connected the cables to. Please. Thank you
nice job, but why it is so small? I have it pprinted and i use inside box 2x3 cables 2ith 6mm2 nad there is no space to push psu insde box :(
which 12K ohm Resistor do you use 0.25 W or 2W ?
Nice psu, shunt also good idea. Which potentiometer is set for voltage?
Hi, thank you very much for the video, but I have a problem maybe you know what could be, I did all as the video, when I check the ouput it shows 14,2V but when I connect it to the car it drops to 0, any clue about this problem? Seems like a problem with the OVP but it’s all done exactly as in the video. Thank you!
@darknwo18 Hey, I’ve the same problem … without a load it shows 14.2v output. But when connect to car the psu powers down (showing 12v of battery) did you manage to solve it?
@@johnsbond I don’t know where’s the problem exactly but as a workaround, I connect it, then it goes to 0, then from the switch I turn it off then turn on again and it works (if you put the switch between the PSU and the cables).
@@darknwo18 so you've added a switch on the cables leaving the PSU before they reach the car connectors. Did you just switch one pole (ie positive or negative) or both? Much appreciated
@@johnsbond The switch is to turn on/off the 12v protection, if it’s on it can output 14v, when it’s off it just outputs 12v. So with the switch on, I put the cables on the car terminals (or battery) and it goes to 0v, then I change the switch to off, then back on, and outputs 14v. If you connect the cables to the car terminals with the switch off and then turn it on, it just goes to 0v, so thats’s the only workaround the I’ve found.
@@darknwo18 sorry do you mean a switch between pins 33 & 36, which is PSU power (not OVP)?
Hello great video, your 3D case is awesome. I have a question? What is the exterior size of the square nut that you put in each bracket that holds on the front cover.
I have recycle nuts for 2020 aluminium profiles.
This is because have a special shape that hold in place when you tighten them. You can use any other method that can hold the bracket like washers.
Regards.
@@JoseJJn oh okay thank you very much
what size and length bolts did you use?
Awesome video. Going to attempt this project soon cause I need to program my bimmers. Im adding most of the parts you listed in your desc. And gonna stop by HD or Ace for the rest. What is that thing you put on pin 32-36? It looks like 6 spikes (where the resistor gets soldered to?
At the very first moment, I was thinking on use the i2C interface to communicate with an arduino board just to measure the current, Voltage, temp and other parameters using internal sensors so I decided to solder those poles to connect a flat wire.
Finally I did not have enought time to investigate so I decided to buy an external Volt/Amp meter. Finally I removed those poles.
Regards.
Excellent , 10 thumbs up , are you able to build / make one for resale for me ? I am not capable of build one from scratch .
Can you have the car running and the power supply without going to a power protection?
Very good described video, is it the same procedure for DPS-750PB A Power Supply ?
Not sure... Maybe. Check your PCB and if soldering points match, they sould be the same.
In the video you listed a 6k8 ohm resistor. I'm assuming you mean 6.8k ohm. Also the one you show in the video is 8.2k ohm according to the bands.
3:09 Blue, Grey, Red, Gold -> 6.8K 5%. Maybe the colors of the camera are not very clear...
And yes, 6K8 is way I was taught to represent the values. But yes, it means 6.8K.
Best regards.
I don’t have a 6.8k, can i use a 10k? Sorry if it is a stupid question!
hi, this is the power supply 460w model hp dps 00F i want to set it to 14.4V. do you have a tube link to make it modified please help
Do you take any remote coding jobs?
can someone tell me how to create supports in 3d print? I have a creality ender 3 printer, could someone share a printable file with supports?
Thanks for this. I’ve do this as explained, I got up to 14v but when I powered down the PSU and back on again it instantly drops from 14v to 0v the fans spin really fast and then off. Am I missing something?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
My fan changes it speed depending on the PSU needs. I think it is a protection mechanism to prevent overheat when you power off the PSU.
When you do that, how much time does the PSU need in order to deliver 14v again?
Regards
Did you find what was the cause?
Where can I get the enclosure. I would like to purchase two of them.
can you help me please???? i need the width x depth x height for HSTNS PL11
Tomorrow I will send you the measures
Hi, the metal box measures are:
196x86x38mm
If you also want them adding the handle, the fan and he large connector pin, the measures are:
237x40x86mm
Regards.
I found similar PSU but it's DP19 not DP11 Will it work the same?
I made this however if I Hook just a battery up to the PSU. The battery powers the PSU. Any idea?
Totally normal.
@@JoseJJn it’s not putting out any amperage on the car though. I can’t figure out why. Do you have whatsapp?
Hi, I have the same PSU. HP DPS-1200FB. Can you do a 3D print exactly like yours for me as well? Ofc, I will pay :D I`m in the UK.
Thanks a lot!
Which dsp is this?
amazing
Can u make one and sell? Very good job.
Hola amigo. Me estaba preguntando si los vendes ya hechos y cuanto.
Hello very interesting can we rechange car batteries with this ? Will stop when the battery is full or you need a controller !
Not sure, this is not a battery charger, this is a power supply.
Based on my experience, when the battery is fully charged the Amp meter drops but I dont think this can consider as a power cut when battery is fully charged.
hello.. could you make a power supply for me? how can I contact you?
hola Jose, can you please help me with how do i connect the display? I saw your diagram below in a comment but i dont seem to get it working
What problem do you have?
You have to install the 'shunt' in between the negative pole of the PSU.
Then, your display shold have 5 wires:
- Thin wires:
Black: PSU Ground (psu wide negative pole)
Red: Power for meter (cuold be the same than yellow, but I connected it to pin 37: 12VSB, that is 12V in standby)
Yellow: Positive pole of the volt you want to measure (the wide positive pin)
- Thick wires:
Red: Shunt input (psu wide negative pole)
Black: Shunt output (load negative pole)
Regards.
I tried building one to your specifications but it ended up blowing itself up after 20 mins on the bench. Granted, it wasn’t connected to load as I wanted to see if it was stable before connecting it to a car.
Could this be the result of current rippling, without a load attached?
I dont know what was your problem...
I have used it many times (either with load or without it) with no issues...
Sessions flashing motorbikes with 10A of consumption for more than 4 hours with no single problem...
Could it be a coincidence?
Regards.
Anybody know what tyoe of nuts we can see in 5:26 ?
Good job! Can you please share name of used 3d printer?
Sure, the link to the models is in the description!
Regards!
I would like to ask what is the second resistor needed, is it really 6k8 ohms? Also I have no 3d printer and so I would like to know where I can possibly buy the 3d printed end caps for the psu? Thank you.
I dont know where to buy the caps... there are several websites where you can send the models and they send them back...
Regards
How did you deal with the voltage difference between the power supply and battery when you connect them? Will the ~1V difference cause problem to power supply or battery?
No issues at all...
Connect & flash.
You only notice that at the first minutes, the PSU delivers more power and then it decreases.
I suppose it is because the battery is topping up the first minutes and finally only the ECUS are demanding current.
Best regards
@@JoseJJn Thank you very much for your prompt response and valuable experience in this matter. I will certainly try it later.
Hi there! I am making a copy of your project. Could you please tell me how did you power and connect the display?
Pin 37 is VCC in stand-by (12V when plugged to AC)
GND is connected to main GND lead (38 I guess, the biggest one)
Using this pins, you will feed the display with 12v even when the main output is set to 14V.
See this picture:
www.qsl.net/yo4hfu/Files/HP_HSTNS/HSTNS_Pinout.jpg
What wattages are the resistors rated? 1/4, 1/2, 1 or 2 watts?
1/4w
Thanks a lot for the info and the effort you put into this!
Can I buy the file for the 3d printer case 👍
How did you terminate the 10AWG wires to the shunt and main positive and negative cable?
A 10mm bolt for each pole.
The positive is connected directly to the PSU using 3 wires and some crimped connectors.
The negative is directly attached to the shunt with a bolt.
Regards.
@@JoseJJn okay so all three negative 10AWG wires to the post on the shunt and all three positive 10AWG wires to the positive post? Any pics of how you wired the volt/amp meter would be great too, mine did not come with a wiring diagram. Thanks.
@@JoseJJn Why use a shunt? Is there a reason for not just connecting from the PSU directly to the bolt on the negative side?
@@Broeils Because it is mandatory in order to connect the Amp meter. If you dont want the Display then, it is not necessary. As far as I know, these PSU have a DATA PORT you can comunicate with, and using it you can read the delivered power and status (temp, volts, amps, etc) using an Arduino for example but I did not have enough time to investigate.
Regards.
@@twinscrolled Yes, this is my set-up because I want to manage up to 80A in the worst scenario. The best way to do this could be using copper bars instead of wire, or maybe AWG4 wires (25mm2)...
The shunt is easy to connect.
The Volt/Amp meter has 5 wires:
- Positive feed -> To pin
- Negative feed
- Volt meter
- Amp meter
- Negative meter
The Shunt is between the negative pole and the negative PSU output.
The feed for the display is connected to the 12V StandBy output of the PSU
The negative meter is connected to the shunt (in the PSU side)
The amp meter is connected to the shunt (in the POLE side)
The volt meter is connected to the large positive output of the PSU (~14volts output)
Let me find a proper picture and I will share it.
Regards.
what screws did you use?
hola Jose!!!! yo no tengo mucha idea de soldadura pero si que estoy metido en el tema de codificaciones y necesito un estabilizador, en cuanto mas o menos podría salir uno como el tuyo.
Gracias
Buenas!
Si te lo quieres hacer 'como éste' y sin meterte en la parte del amperimetro y la carcasa 3D con 100€ en piezas te llega. Es decir, la fuente con dos cables gordos de 16mm y un par de pinzas.
Igual te pueden soldar las resistencias en una tienda de electrónica por menos de 30€.
Las comerciales rondan los 500€
Saludos!
@@JoseJJn muchas gracias por tu respuesta!!! Por un por si acaso tú no las haces para vender? Sería interesante 😀, te he escrito en otro vídeo tuyo sobre lo del TFT…. Haces tú el la codificación? Un saludo y gracias
@@Gergus_ Hola, la verdad es que no me planteo venderlas... al final hay que buscar tiempo y tal para hacerlas y por desgracia no me sobra :( por eso dejé de publicar videos incluso.
Sí, los TFT los instalo yo. Me ayuda un colega que lo usé de conejillo de indias jeje.
Un saludo.
@@JoseGarcia-rk7ds gracias por la respuesta!!!! Bueno si te animas a vender una como esa avísame y te la compro!!!! Gracias 🤩
Do you make a sale them
I'm sorry but I do not sell them. You have all the info to build it by yourself.
Regards.
What resister might one need if they wanted to go up to 14.6v?
I am not sure... Maybe the same. You can adjust the final voltage by tunning the potentiometer. I this does not work for you, you will have to try by yourself.
10AWG is sufficient for the amp draw of a typical BMW?
10 AWG is rated for 30Amps. I am using 3 wires in parallel so 90amps would be managed without problems.
Tipically, no more than 30Amps are drawn in my regular coding sessions.
It will be better if you use copper bars instead of wires but I did not have them when building my setup.
Regards.
Jose, if you was to print the 3d casings again, what would they cost?
I am not very skilled at 3D Printing, I mean I had to print it 3 times until the quality was good enough to be ready to use.
The firsts attempts ended with errors such as warping, deformations, etc. :(
I published my models. Maybe is better to ask a professional of 3D printing. At least, in my city you can find some people that can print them for you for an affordable price.
Best Regards
@@JoseJJn any idea on cost?
Jose como puedo contactar contigo? Cuando llego al paso de ajustar el voltaje de salida no puedo subirlo más de 12.54, después empieza a decrecer
Hola, no sabría decirte el problema... quizá tu modelo necesita otras resistencias de ajuste.
¿Has seguido los pasos de manera concisa?
Saludos.
@@JoseJJn muchas gracias tuve que cambiar valor de resistencias funcionando perfectamente gran aporte gracias
Hi, which pot did you adjust when setting the voltage
Minute 3:03 . The one where is soldered the top red cable.
Regards
@@JoseJJn I notice you use icom, is it the real deal or chinese replica? Cheers
Price for this?
is the shunt only needed for the volt gauge or some sort of fuse?
Only for the gauge meter.
@@JoseJJn Thanks for replying,
My idea was to drill holes on the + - of psu.
Buy a set of jump leads and cut the ends off one side and crimp large eyelet connector to them and just use a nut and bolt to attach to psu.
obviously using jump leads and eyelet in excess of 100amp.
do you see any problem with this if jump leads kept to 1m or under?
@@killerconsoles517 Your idea should work but check the surfaces in contact between the eyelet and the power pad. I drilled holes too but I prefered to install 3 connectors per hole due to the size of the power pad (long but thin). My first apporach was to install 6 eyelets per pole: 3 holes, one eyelet per hole and side, but finally I installed only 3 since, I am not going to go beyond 50 amps while programming.
The other solution I have seen is to solder a thick wire all over the surface of the power pad.
This is the only issue I see to your setup. With only one eyelet, you could create a hot point between the eyelet and the contact surface.
The length of the wires I dont think it could be a problem. Just keep an eye to them the first times you use it and check the temperature of the contact points.
Regards.
Hi Jose, can I contact you and buy a PSU ?
I need it to use with the car
Hi,
Unfortunatelly I am not selling them. I did it for personal purposes.
There are many commercial brands that shell something similar.
Best Regards
anyway of contacting You for coding ?
are you using a fake hp psu? because yours seem different. All hp 1200w psu have blue power connector but your is black.
i bought the same psu and I am afraid if I purchased a counterfeit.
I first bought a PD19 and realized there is no real guide to this psu, I have now ordered a PL11 as in this video and the connectors are black, I beleieve there is als a solution for PD19 and that has blue connector.
Hi can o share the drawings for the 3d parts printed please?
Thanks
Yes, no problem, give me a couple of hours
Models uploaded! www.thingiverse.com/thing:4871783
@@JoseJJn I am going to order the parts - can you help me with the aliexpress link. Thingiverse says' not found'. I want to get the same parts as you used so they fit the printed parts.
Hey is it possible to buy the plastic parts?
You can print them at any local store with a 3D printer. I shared the models in the description for free.
Regards
Thank you so much 👍
Hello are you still making these and if so are you willing to sell me one of these units
Are you still looking for one of these units?
hi Jose , are you able to supply me a 3d model for my unit? Thanks
Sure, the link to the models is in the description!
Regards!
Do you still need the parts for your unit?
@@user-zj7no4do4s I had them made 🙂
Anybody here want to print out the 3D models and I’ll buy it from you. Me No has printah
Did anyone ever reach out to you about these 3D models ?
@@mistalova4396 Nopes 😞
@@F85M Do you still want the parts printed?
@@user-zj7no4do4s Yawp. Black or Navy Blue color.
@@F85M Do you have a preference between the black or the blue? Just printed a set in a burnt orange.