@@TepcoCycleRepair You did an excellent video explaining the adjustment. Just did valves on my 2014 LUX 550 Gator for the 1st time at 800 hrs. It should be pointed out that checking valve clearance before puting a wrench on it serves 2 things. It lets you KNOW crank and valves are in correct position to adjust and also if valve adjustment was too tight or too lose. Mine was supposed to be 004 to 006 and 3 were .010, one at 009. so I know it was just normal wear and in good shape. Great video. Thanks.
Ok so I just checked and adjusted a Gravely today for the first time ever and I measured .014 and up on all 4! Yes this engine has 2800 ish hours and no one has ever checked it before and now that it is tuned the PTO doesn't bog the engine down and struggle. Check them. Im new to the company.
My Kawasaki FD series water-cooled twin cylinder engine manual says the opposite of your video, that the internal Allen screw is the adjustment and the outside nut is the Lock. It calls for 0.01" clearance if anyone reading here is doing an FD series engine.
All Kawasaki FH series engines are .004" intake and .006" exhaust .I know Im a little late to the dance here but I wanted to add a little info to a nice video.
i dont mean to be offtopic but does someone know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Clay Remy i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm. Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I did enjoy the video and it helped a lot, but at 2:53, you needed to loosen the Allen first before the adjustment nut. You cracked the wrong thing, surprised it didn't break something since the lock nut (allen bolt) was still tightened when you "cracked" the adjustment nut. You should put an a specific annotation in the video about not doing that one first.
Question I have a 20 hp Kawasaki sratred spitting and sputtering chacked the push rods thay not bent got fire going to the cylenders but when i pull the plug wire to that one cylender it goes dead. i am scraching my head dont know what to do.... what could it be ?
If you pull a plug wire and the mower dies, it's the other cylinder. Check the other cylinder spark and valves. The one you pull and it dies is the good cylinder otherwise it would continue to run on the other cylinder.
My mower has same motor and it trys to start but then it dies and starter cant turn it over until I wait awhile. Its like the motor is getting to much compression. Would this be an issue where the valves need adjusted?
Yes, but not as often as adjusting the valves. If you keep the valves adjusted and use good fuel, carbon build up should be minimal. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. Question: so if piston is full visible does that mean that valves are ready for adjustment. (can a light be use to see the piston position ) please correct me if wrong. Again thanks and God Bles
Just put something in the spark plug hole, like a chopstick or long screwdriver and turn the engine by hand until the piston is at its highest point and both valves have play. There is a tdc on the compression stroke and a tdc on the crossover stroke, you want the compression stroke when there is play in both valves.
I’ve got a single cylinder Kawasaki on a John Deere mower. I adjusted the valves thinking it will cold start easier! No difference ! Hard start or no start when cold and back fires. Any ideas? Runs good and starts good when warm.
Mine is smoking a white/blueish smoke one start up only for a few seconds. I don't believe this is a valve adjustment problem? I'm not sure if it's a carb clean problem either, but it's due to be cleaned I guess.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thanks, I think you're right. If I'd thought about it a little longer. I'm retired and my mind is getting slower, but I'm getting smarter, just slower.
Well I would need more info, is it diying as soon as you engage the blades or they will engage and you start to loose power? If the first it's a safety switch, if the second then probably valves or compression.
@@TepcoCycleRepair it wont die but bogs way down .I can pull one plug wire and it will not die, pull the other and it does.They both have good spark and I swapped plugs. The one that doesnt kill it has the new coil. The blade spindles seem to turn freely.
@@1983mojo1 The plug wire you pull.and it doesn't die is the bad cylinder. You're running on one cylinder. Absolutely check your valves, you probably have a bent push rod. Easy repair.
I lost compression on one side, its at 0. the other side has around 150 psi. adding oil and doing a compression test does not increase pressure. Could it be the valves out of adjustment on that side?
If you have 0 psi it seems it would be something more severe, like a.broken connecting rod. If the piston was moving at all I would think you would get some compression.
@@Stephen-ut5xo is the piston moving? Even a blown head gasket would show some compression. Stick something like a straw down the spark plug hole and see if you can feel the piston move when you turn the engine slowly.
@@Stephen-ut5xo most likely, not a hard repair. Broken connecting rods are usually from the rod seizing to the crank. Make sure you clean up the crank before you put the new connecting rod on. The rod material usually transfers to the crank journal, it's much softer so you can usually save the crank.
Not usually, surging can be from lack of fuel (weak fuel pump, clogged filter) clogged pilot jet, sucking air from somewhere. A carb clean/rebuild or mixture adjustment usually fixes surging.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I just replaced the engine with a brand new replacement. Kawasaki FH770D-KAI 28hp. It only has around an hour of break in time on it. Anything higher than low idle has surging and sputtering/misfire.
I've seen them in the 3k hours range. Oil filter, air filter and valve adjustments. Heat kills them so keep the leaves off the chassis so it can breathe and stay cool.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thank you so much for the reply. i just got a new Kubota with the kawi 850 EFI and I am already a fanatic on care. The next videos I watched was a guy in Oklahoma who was rebuilding Kawi's that had high oil consumption at 250hrs! So I'm going to make sure I get 3K hrs or more.
If the mower gets hard to crank, spins a little then stops, spins a little and stops, the valves need to be adjusted in order for the auto decompression to work and the engine to spin freely.
You'll need to check them to see if they are in spec. Any running issues or difficulty starting should be a sign. Checking and adjusting is a maintenance item and shouldn't be overlooked.
@@TepcoCycleRepair that you for replying, but I was wondering where to find what distance to set them to. He said in the video that his was .006, but I would assume not all engines are the same.
In your owners manual you might find that information in the spec chart. It'll be labeled intake valve clearance and exhaust valve clearance. Many newer briggs engine have a sticker with a qr code. If you scan it you'll have your owner manual.
Good video. Most of the videos are confusing on how to find top dead center. I checked my valves earlier but think I checked them with the wrong gauge. I checked them with .06 mm. Any tips on how to get the old gasket material off? That took forever.
I have a kawi 23 hp that I want to adjust the valves on.Lets say I am on the compression stroke ready to adjust them.Do I loosen only the 14mm nut or do I have to hold the 14mm nut with a wrench and then loosen the 3mm nut(or whatever it is)? I am a little confuses because it looks like you just loosened the 14mm nut and went from there.
Ok so you can just loosen the 14mm nut to loosen everything, The 14mm nut is the adjuster, the 3mm Allen is the lock. So if you just loosen the 14 it will loosen both, so if you just tightened it back it would have technically done nothing. After you loosen the 14 you'll need to back the 3mm out some to have the room to tighten the 14 more. watch it from 3:00. They are not super precise when adjusting, you'll have to do it a few times to get the feel, it seems to always get a little tighter when you lock it down, so start a little loose before you tighten the 3mm.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you so much for taking the time to reply.I understand now! Will do this in the next couple of days.Engine has 1100 hours and has never been adjusted and for not want to go to the dealer.
I adjusted the valves today.With your help it was easy,thanks again! One intake valve was at .009 while the other was at .011. One exhaust was at .011 and the other was at .019. I set valves to .005. Engine has 1109 hours and this was never done.
@@michellejohn695 Glad I could help, it's amazing how long these engines will go without a valve adjustment. Most that I do is the first time they are done as well. Good Job getting it done!
About as clear a video as I've seen on this. When you say "adjust at least once every season" what's that translate to the homeowner? About every 300 hours? I imagine in one season, a commercial lawn care businesses will put that much on a machine easily.
Hey there!! Any idea why my intake valve won't move and its very tight. The lower valve is fine l did the adjustment but the other one is to tight. Thank you
somebody took a nine horsepower xr75 to Carolina lawn and tractor they hit a Rick or Brock or something and it went dead so Carolina lawn and tractor told them must have told them that they blew their engine and sold them a new tractor well I went to the junkyard and I yank that out of the junkyard and I opened up the engine all it was was a pushrod came out from underneath the rocker arm isn't that amazing.
Your video was very easy to understand and complete.
Short and specific instructions that are easy to follow.
You save me a lot of trouble and money.
Awesome, glad I could help!
@@TepcoCycleRepair You did an excellent video explaining the adjustment. Just did valves on my 2014 LUX 550 Gator for the 1st time at 800 hrs. It should be pointed out that checking valve clearance before puting a wrench on it serves 2 things. It lets you KNOW crank and valves are in correct position to adjust and also if valve adjustment was too tight or too lose. Mine was supposed to be 004 to 006 and 3 were .010, one at 009. so I know it was just normal wear and in good shape. Great video. Thanks.
Excellent video, lighting was great and straight to the point. Thank you!
I've ran mine for 6 years and never had to do anything to it, 409 hours and still going strong 💪
You don't adjust them.till 500 hrs and every 500 after
Ok so I just checked and adjusted a Gravely today for the first time ever and I measured .014 and up on all 4! Yes this engine has 2800 ish hours and no one has ever checked it before and now that it is tuned the PTO doesn't bog the engine down and struggle. Check them. Im new to the company.
I searched all over and found this .YOURS is the BEST Video , BEWARE some Kawi engines use an eccentric on the rocker pivot to gain adjustment '
Got an JD X530 with 400 hrs and doing this. Thanks for your effort!
My Kawasaki FD series water-cooled twin cylinder engine manual says the opposite of your video, that the internal Allen screw is the adjustment and the outside nut is the Lock. It calls for 0.01" clearance if anyone reading here is doing an FD series engine.
Best Video, straight to the POINT… job well done sir..
All Kawasaki FH series engines are .004" intake and .006" exhaust .I know Im a little late to the dance here but I wanted to add a little info to a nice video.
Document I downloaded directly from Kawasaki's site says .004 to .006 for both intake and exhaust in the manual for my 17HP FH series.
Incorrect. Look up fr600v as05 valve adjustment
@@asusreviews You are correct! I have a 17HP Kawasaki motor (FH601V) also. Valve clearance is .004 ~ .006 inch
Just adjusted mine and she runs much better now, they were sloppy loose!
Thanks man! I’m rebuilding the same motor to build a gocart for my kid
That should be cool! Thanks for watching!
Seems like way too much motor for a kart...unsafe.
Your kid has a cool Dad.
@@whitenidan his kid can handlel it
Mine has 1700 hrs and when l checked them still within specs. I was surprised. Must be high quality component they put in these things
As long as they are not abused, and we'll maintained, they can definitely go for many hours without adjustment.
Z920m kawi. 1000 hours still in spec
Thanks man. Good video that helped me out. Thanks for your time.
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I stupidly forgot the account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
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@Clay Remy i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im in the hacking process atm.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
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Thanks for the video helped a lot.
Nice vid. Too back everyone didn't make them like this.
Yes, pretty simple job.
I did enjoy the video and it helped a lot, but at 2:53, you needed to loosen the Allen first before the adjustment nut. You cracked the wrong thing, surprised it didn't break something since the lock nut (allen bolt) was still tightened when you "cracked" the adjustment nut. You should put an a specific annotation in the video about not doing that one first.
Great help, thanks
Might want to mention the specs are for a cold engine.
Yes good point, always check valves on a cold engine. Thanks for watching!
Subscribed, great information!
Question I have a 20 hp Kawasaki sratred spitting and sputtering chacked the push rods thay not bent got fire going to the cylenders but when i pull the plug wire to that one cylender it goes dead. i am scraching my head dont know what to do.... what could it be ?
If you pull a plug wire and the mower dies, it's the other cylinder. Check the other cylinder spark and valves. The one you pull and it dies is the good cylinder otherwise it would continue to run on the other cylinder.
would have loved those gasket part numbers
amzn.to/45QjbBP
Awesome video thanks
My mower has same motor and it trys to start but then it dies and starter cant turn it over until I wait awhile. Its like the motor is getting to much compression. Would this be an issue where the valves need adjusted?
Absolutely yes.
Thank you. I am going to adjust them on my days off this week.
I think they also call for cleaning the carbon off the inside of the combustion chamber in the head.
Yes, but not as often as adjusting the valves. If you keep the valves adjusted and use good fuel, carbon build up should be minimal. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. Question: so if piston is full visible does that mean that valves are ready for adjustment. (can a light be use to see the piston position ) please correct me if wrong. Again thanks and God Bles
Just put something in the spark plug hole, like a chopstick or long screwdriver and turn the engine by hand until the piston is at its highest point and both valves have play. There is a tdc on the compression stroke and a tdc on the crossover stroke, you want the compression stroke when there is play in both valves.
I’ve got a single cylinder Kawasaki on a John Deere mower. I adjusted the valves thinking it will cold start easier!
No difference ! Hard start or no start when cold and back fires.
Any ideas? Runs good and starts good when warm.
Nice video! because i interest for that motor i have a question, the rotation are clockwise or counterclockwise facing the pto shaft??
If you look at the engine from the flywheel cover it rotates clockwise.
@@TepcoCycleRepair So.. that means when directlty looking the pto shaft rotate counterclockwise right?
@@iwatchyou001 Yes
Isn't "clockwise" the same no matter how you look at it?
you think i should take my yaris apart and check the valves or just let it be !?
Leave it if it runs fine. Valves in cars rarely go out, it's not a high reving vehicle.
Thank you For this Video IT Fixed my Mower ( You The Man )
Awesome, glad I could help! Thanks for watching!
Mine is smoking a white/blueish smoke one start up only for a few seconds. I don't believe this is a valve adjustment problem? I'm not sure if it's a carb clean problem either, but it's due to be cleaned I guess.
I guess it could be rings.
That's usually a sign of valve seals. Constant smoke would be rings. Smoke at start up is usually valve seals.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thanks, I think you're right. If I'd thought about it a little longer. I'm retired and my mind is getting slower, but I'm getting smarter, just slower.
I have the Kawasaki FH451V-AS09. Are there any differences? (pull start)
Nope, same deal.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Great. Thanks!
my mower looses power when blades are engaged,thought it was the coil but that did not fix the problem,Would this help
Well I would need more info, is it diying as soon as you engage the blades or they will engage and you start to loose power? If the first it's a safety switch, if the second then probably valves or compression.
@@TepcoCycleRepair it wont die but bogs way down .I can pull one plug wire and it will not die, pull the other and it does.They both have good spark and I swapped plugs. The one that doesnt kill it has the new coil. The blade spindles seem to turn freely.
@@1983mojo1 The plug wire you pull.and it doesn't die is the bad cylinder. You're running on one cylinder. Absolutely check your valves, you probably have a bent push rod. Easy repair.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Will check that ,thank you so much for your help!
Both rods are bent !
I lost compression on one side, its at 0. the other side has around 150 psi. adding oil and doing a compression test does not increase pressure. Could it be the valves out of adjustment on that side?
If you have 0 psi it seems it would be something more severe, like a.broken connecting rod. If the piston was moving at all I would think you would get some compression.
@@TepcoCycleRepair could it be a head gasket?
@@Stephen-ut5xo is the piston moving? Even a blown head gasket would show some compression. Stick something like a straw down the spark plug hole and see if you can feel the piston move when you turn the engine slowly.
@@TepcoCycleRepair your right the piston isn't moving it just sits there as I turn the engine. Is it the connecting rod?
@@Stephen-ut5xo most likely, not a hard repair. Broken connecting rods are usually from the rod seizing to the crank. Make sure you clean up the crank before you put the new connecting rod on. The rod material usually transfers to the crank journal, it's much softer so you can usually save the crank.
Is that pro series oil filter 21384 ? Hard to read backwards
Mobil 1 101a fits kawi s
Can this fix surging?
Not usually, surging can be from lack of fuel (weak fuel pump, clogged filter) clogged pilot jet, sucking air from somewhere. A carb clean/rebuild or mixture adjustment usually fixes surging.
@@TepcoCycleRepair I just replaced the engine with a brand new replacement. Kawasaki FH770D-KAI 28hp. It only has around an hour of break in time on it. Anything higher than low idle has surging and sputtering/misfire.
That engine has 1500 hours on it. How long can a properly maintained engine last? well the Kawasaki engine.
I've seen them in the 3k hours range. Oil filter, air filter and valve adjustments. Heat kills them so keep the leaves off the chassis so it can breathe and stay cool.
@@TepcoCycleRepair thank you so much for the reply. i just got a new Kubota with the kawi 850 EFI and I am already a fanatic on care. The next videos I watched was a guy in Oklahoma who was rebuilding Kawi's that had high oil consumption at 250hrs! So I'm going to make sure I get 3K hrs or more.
Why do you have to do this? Just bought a new mower don’t wanna have to pay every 250 hours for them to be adjusted
If the mower gets hard to crank, spins a little then stops, spins a little and stops, the valves need to be adjusted in order for the auto decompression to work and the engine to spin freely.
Tepco Cycle Repair okay thanks just figured this out never bought a Kawasaki motor before
You should remove cover and do it the right way: noting the position of the magnet in relation to stator
You can, but not necessary. It's a valve gap not timing so as long as no lift is on the valves your good.
how do I know if my engine needs to be adjusted to .006 as well?
You'll need to check them to see if they are in spec. Any running issues or difficulty starting should be a sign. Checking and adjusting is a maintenance item and shouldn't be overlooked.
@@TepcoCycleRepair that you for replying, but I was wondering where to find what distance to set them to. He said in the video that his was .006, but I would assume not all engines are the same.
@@the_spankles oh I see, all the Kawasaki 25hp are .006 what do you have?
@@TepcoCycleRepair I have a husqvarna z5426. I believe the engine is a Briggs and Stratton 44p777 26 hp
In your owners manual you might find that information in the spec chart. It'll be labeled intake valve clearance and exhaust valve clearance. Many newer briggs engine have a sticker with a qr code. If you scan it you'll have your owner manual.
Hi will this work on a toro 24hp twin?
That should be a Briggs and is similar.
Good video. Most of the videos are confusing on how to find top dead center. I checked my valves earlier but think I checked them with the wrong gauge. I checked them with .06 mm.
Any tips on how to get the old gasket material off? That took forever.
I use gasket remover for tough ones, it just sprays on and eats the gasket off. Thanks for watching!
Tepco Cycle Repair okay I’ll look for some at the parts store
At the factory we use mm and on this motor the spec is .10mm- .15mm
I have a kawi 23 hp that I want to adjust the valves on.Lets say I am on the compression stroke ready to adjust them.Do I loosen only the 14mm nut or do I have to hold the 14mm nut with a wrench and then loosen the 3mm nut(or whatever it is)?
I am a little confuses because it looks like you just loosened the 14mm nut and went from there.
Ok so you can just loosen the 14mm nut to loosen everything, The 14mm nut is the adjuster, the 3mm Allen is the lock. So if you just loosen the 14 it will loosen both, so if you just tightened it back it would have technically done nothing. After you loosen the 14 you'll need to back the 3mm out some to have the room to tighten the 14 more. watch it from 3:00. They are not super precise when adjusting, you'll have to do it a few times to get the feel, it seems to always get a little tighter when you lock it down, so start a little loose before you tighten the 3mm.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you so much for taking the time to reply.I understand now! Will do this in the next couple of days.Engine has 1100 hours and has never been adjusted and for not want to go to the dealer.
I adjusted the valves today.With your help it was easy,thanks again! One intake valve was at .009 while the other was at .011. One exhaust was at .011 and the other was at .019. I set valves to .005. Engine has 1109 hours and this was never done.
@@michellejohn695 Glad I could help, it's amazing how long these engines will go without a valve adjustment. Most that I do is the first time they are done as well. Good Job getting it done!
This can fix a hard start?
Yes it can.
I'll try it. And I'll let you k ow if that was the problem
About as clear a video as I've seen on this. When you say "adjust at least once every season" what's that translate to the homeowner? About every 300 hours? I imagine in one season, a commercial lawn care businesses will put that much on a machine easily.
On the larger CC engines yes probably 250 to 300 hours on the smaller CC engines more in the 150 to 200 hour range.
@@TepcoCycleRepair Thank you. I'm thinking specifically of the FS730vi fuel injected Kawa in my John Deere tractor. Gads, it's a strong engine.
@@mic982sounds like 500 hrs is a good interval if you read the above comments. Easy to remember that interval also.
Hey there!! Any idea why my intake valve won't move and its very tight. The lower valve is fine l did the adjustment but the other one is to tight.
Thank you
Make sure the locknut is loose enough. If it is, spray some penetration oil on it and let it sit for a few.
@@TepcoCycleRepair l did, everything is working good now.
Thank you very much, have a great day!!!!
somebody took a nine horsepower xr75 to Carolina lawn and tractor they hit a Rick or Brock or something and it went dead so Carolina lawn and tractor told them must have told them that they blew their engine and sold them a new tractor well I went to the junkyard and I yank that out of the junkyard and I opened up the engine all it was was a pushrod came out from underneath the rocker arm isn't that amazing.
Oh yeah, I pull "junk" equipment out of the trash all the time that need minimal repairs. Good find!
22 down thumbs can you do better, thanks nice video
24hp kawasaki smokes
Stupid pointless advertisements beforehand, complete waste of everyone's time
Totally agree!