in the spanish subtitle of the movie Harry say "oxfords sin brogues" what means oxfords without brogues and i think this has more sense
In German he says: "oxfords keine Budapester" wich means oxfords no budepesters. Where Budapester is the German name for wingtip, fullbrogue Derbys with some additional features.
So German was more spot on as well
@@SansAziza It's very clear in English too; this guy is just doing clickbait for folks who didn't understand the terminology
I thought it was clear. I follow that rule -- I will never wear any brogue shoe.
I think what Harry really meant was "Oxfords, but without broguing". The true mistake was when Harry said that Oxford is a shoe with open lacing
Yep, if you're going to be a snob about broguing you should at least know what an Oxford actually is *facepalm*
First shoe, with bar across toe, is called, a Gibson,
Second shoe, is a Cambridge brogue, punched holes down the side of shoe,
Then there is a oxford brogue,( most common), no punch holes down the side, mainly on an around toe area,
I'm pretty sure they meant "Oxfords, (that are) not Brogues."
It depends on how you tone your voice.
To resume Oxford ( or Richelieu as we call it in France) is to be "opposed" to derby shoe. Brogue is just actually a decor in shoe. Harry should have telled "Oxford not brogued"
Although Harry's description of the shoe was wrong, I think it can still be a good motto to live by, meaning "Always opt to be refined rather than casual. Don't just be a man, be a gentleman."
That's the wrong way to look at it. One should always strive for what is appropriate. You shouldn't wear hunting boots to a wedding, but likewise you shouldn't wear calfskin Oxfords on a hunting trip. There are many times when being casual is precisely what is called for. Real gentleman historically did all kinds of things. They didn't just sit indoors and drink tea. They did everything from hunting to warfare to even manual labor. They were well-rounded.
All the pomp of rules of formality actually comes out of the middle classes, the "strivers" who are always trying to show everyone that they are "better" than the common plebs. Real gentlemen are secure in their station and have no need for such things. Rules like that are appropriate for the Kingsmen because they are servants (bordering on slaves, even) and expendable ones at that.
There is a scene in the film where the Harry character addresses the ‘oxfords not brogues’ term. He describes the oxford as ‘any shoe with *OPEN* lacing.’ It’s a deliberate error, surely.
@@Tmanaz480 I'm pretty sure that was deliberate on Fleming's part. In Casino Royale he orders quite an elaborate cocktail, and only later switches to vodka martinis. It fits Bond's character, as shaking would dilute the martini more, than stirring, which means getting less drunk, which makes sense for a secret agent. Also, he orders it with vodka and not gin, further emphasising that despite the appearances, Bond is a brute.
@@ModernGrimm shaking makes any cocktail makes it colder. as for dilution it would be so minimal if at all, to be essentially irrelevant. besides the fact that if the all the content is drank, you've consumed all the alcohol anyways. the whole point of the shaken *vodka* martini had another element. any smart Englishman would never shake a martini ( you don't have to say gin that's understood, but you do have to designate vodka. ). if you shake gin, it bruises. the bruising is actually air bubbles and ice crystals from shaking. but doing so is, "bad form" as they say.
@@josephcampese5347 I guess you're right with the amount of dilution not being a factor in getting less drunk or hangover, but I think we both made the same point, that despite the appearence, Bond is unsophisticated brute. He basically violates every rule you might have with a martini. Vodka has less taste than gin (even less, if it's cold), and shaking does dilute cocktails more than just stirring - as you've said, it might not be enough to stay hydrated, but it definitely alters the taste. Add the bruising you've mentioned, and the result is probably a drink that you chug down instantly, rather than properly tasting and sipping it. So while he still orders a cocktail that might seem elegant to the uninitiated (a fancy martini with a unique signature twist), in reality he's going for a quick and easy buzz.
Interesting topic to take up, Antonio! I like it.
It's informative, yet entertaining at the same time. Also, the dramatic music (4 answers, 3 shoes & Crocs) is hilarious!
Great video, Antonio! The phrase should have been “Oxfords, without brogues.” A brogue is not a type of shoe, but rather a decorative element. The type of shoe is the derby, as is the oxford.
Ad ends 4:50, enjoy.
We finally have the answer. In the newest movie, the original saying was "We are Oxfords, not rogues"
Great explanation Antonio! In the video Harry actually says an Oxford is a shoe with an open-lacing system. Think the writers just fumbled that one. Should've brought you on as a consultant for the movie!
in the new movie it finally answers our demand, in the movie that was set in the past, the phrase “oxford not brouges” was originally “oxford not rouges”. Maybe this is the reason why the phrase is like that, due to its heritage.
I learned a lot from this video. I never knew about open lacing vs closed lacing.
👍👍Thanks Antonio! Sounds like the Midwest cold/snow got to ya (you sound ‘stuffed up’) I sure don’t miss that WI weather! 🤒 Get Well Soon!
I’m English and (at least where I live) Oxford would generally refer to plain/cap toe oxfords and brogues refer to and brogue whether an Oxford or derby (pronounced “darby” like the city btw)
Always great tips Antonio
1 Oxford without brogue
2 Derby with long-wing brogue
3 Oxford with semi brogue
Please note Derby is not pronounced Durby, it is pronounced Darby. It is a town in the East Mids of UK.
I’ve been watching your for a while. This is one of your best videos! Keep it up.
Very informative video. Now I can differentiate between oxford and Brogues and Now I can decide that which one to wear with formal dresses ❤
Got all three and now im vindicated with my brogue jeans combo, it feels right.
This video has been so revealing for me! Thank you so much!
True! Nobody who knows men's fashion would say "Oxfords, not Brogues." And THAT is why it makes a good password.
Love the video. Very informative.straight foward
Did you consider that he may have meant: "Oxfords without broguing"? "Oxfords not brogues" is just another way of saying "Oxfords not Derbies. Formal not brogued."
Great video, thank you. Honestly, the go to video to understand the main difference between Oxfords/Brogue/Derbie shoes.
In Russian dub Harry said "Oxford, but not brogue". I think it has more sense
A great discussion. I have purchased a number of Church's Shoes before Prada in various styles of Oxfords with and without broughing. Tan looks great in the summertime. Also white bucks.❤
Nice informative video. Thank you Sir for the info.
Thank you for the education. I really appreciate it.
Good information Antonio. I “thought” I understood the difference in shoe types before. Now I DO.
First one is Oxford cap toe and it's the most formal shoes. 2nd is derby with brogue, informal, and the last one is Oxford with brogue, less formal than oxford cap toe.
Watching this particular scene from the movie, I also got the impression that the writers didn‘t know classic menswear too well as an oxford is referred to as „any formal shoe with open lacing“.
They should‘ve studied your videos!
Superb presentation, very interested in this shoe manufacturer and I believe the meaning of “Oxford not brogues”
Is simply. This is business not pleasure.
You must do a great job in advertising, I really watched that sponsor. You made it sound I've got to have those shoes.
Very informative video, well explained, thanks
I believe a black oxford with semi broguing on the cap toe is versatile. It can be worn with business attire and casual clothes, even jeans. For example the Allen Edmonds Fifth Avenue.
So glad I could get all the answers right. 😌
Dude u went way to deep into this movie quote...
he clearly meant decorative brogueing on shoes is not for him or kingsmen. Which makes sense bcs they were historically nobility/white collar, born with a silver spoon up their ass, and would never have to wear peasant shoes with brogueing bcs they aren't farm hands walking through marshes. They r the elite, upper class. They r kingsmen. U could argue that eggsy could be badass and wear some oxfords with slight brogueing to rep his set. Lol
Historically gentlemen did all sorts of things outdoors, like hunting and horseback riding. Hunting boots would very often have broguing, as would other outdoor shoes. The "fashion rules" never really applied to actual aristocrats, but were adopted mostly by the middle classes trying to emulate what they thought the upper classes were like. A true gentleman is going to do whatever he likes doing, and is going to wear whatever is appropriate to the activity. Likewise speaking with a posh accent - actual aristocrats spoke like normal people, but the middle classes always tried to differentiate themselves from the poor.
The same is true today. Billionaires wear what they want. They know they are not peasants, so they don't need to prove it. It's the middle class "striver" plebs trying to show that they are less plebeian than the other plebs. At least that's what's going on with "designer" clothes.
Yep RC nailed it. I truly believe it was meant to be a high standard dress code of a gentlemen. The video literally defines Brogues as more casual. Kingsman dont do casual when they are in official capacity
Brogues are worn by the gentry in the country and with Highland dress. They are also worn with some uniforms in the British Army, particularly Scottish ones. The word "brogue" simply means "shoe" in Irish. The word is also used in Scottish Gaelic. If you said "wingtip" to a Briton, they'd assume you were talking about an aeroplane.
This video has made shoe shopping infuriating! LMAO The number of companies that make dress shoes and do not know the distinction is ridiculous. Searching for oxfords on some of their sites will pull up a wide variety of open-laced shoes that are labeled as oxfords... smh
Great video and information
Thanks for this! Well done.
Great video thanks
I’ve a pair of my dads brogues over 60 years old. Built like dreadnoughts
Great information. 👍
You killed with the crocs 🤣 my grandma loves them ! 😁
Before I see the answers, I'll say one is a cap toe Oxford, two is a wingtip brogued derby, and three is an brogued Oxford.
It really annoys me when Antonio says Derby pronounced Derbee rather than Darbee, I do know it is the American pronunciation, but it still gets me😂. Keep up the videos Antonio!
Had me in tears with the crocks thing😂
Also closed lacing shoes were less forgiving, size wise. Fine if you're having them hand made for you, bad if they're being mass produced. hence bluchers are open laced, so you can get a pair about the right size and get them to fit by lacing them looser/tighter
If you don’t understand what’s being said in the movie, you should go to London and work in the professional services sector for a while. You will get to know exactly what is meant: one does not wear brogues in town - ever. And contrary to what many Americans (I have noticed) tend to do: one does not EVER wear brown shoes to a dark suit.
Fantastic video!!!
Good education 👍🏾👍🏾
Anyone else noticed how Harry said "An Oxford is any formal shoe with open lacing) ???
Completely wrong yet the shoes in frame were indeed Oxfords
Yep, that makes sense now...cheers.
Great ! Thank you.
Thank you. I did not know the difference.
Bro my channel would have been sky rockin if I had the ability of yours to explain..great job man.
i once wore Oxfords with jeans but under a circumstance where it looked good: i wanted to go for a more texan style (and also a bit like Elvis) so i took a blue shirt, a white t-shirt to wear underneath, some gray jeans and blue Oxfords. All of that blended well and i got compliments for it
Medium to dark brown oxfords go well with jeans. Brown oxfords would be against English style rules in the past but now English shoe makers are making them. Under English style rules, you wouldn't wear jeans either. Times have changed, and any effort to dress in anything other than sneakers will get you noticed.
I love Oxfords and Brouges! I kind of love my grandfather's favourites.
Only have a pair of boots with brogue wingtips. Love them. Yet looking for a good pair of brogues for my kilt.
Yes, give this man a beer, please. He's very right.
Put simply, never turn up to business or interview in anything other than plain black lace up shoes that are highly polished.
Thanks for always being engaged with your audience and responsive when you have the chance. Next year I'll be entering my 30's so been trying to upgrade my wardrobe little by little.I'm still gong to keep my short sleeve button downs as I feel they would be good for certain occasions like the beach, a theme park, or even just going out doing errands; however I will buy long sleeves for formal situations ones that are more for things like Church or job interviews...etc..the long ones I have now are more BBQ or different get togethers with friends or family. Sorry hope my comment isn't confusing. To clarify: 6 Dress shirt long sleeves casual,5 Dress shirts business related/Formal and around 5 short sleeve button downs.The numbers might be a little off but I'll post a short update next time that's more accurate:)
Personally I think short sleeve button-downs are great for casual wear. They go great with jeans or chinos in a variety of situations. Especially in hot weather, they are much more comfortable than long sleeves, even with the sleeves rolled up.
@@whitemakesright2177 That is why I would prefer linen, either short or long sleeved without button down collars.
Maybe he meant in a figurative speech, "you are now entering a secret world, no longer being part of an open network" by saying "Oxford's NOT Brogues" just saying...........🤔😋😁
Antonio it all made sense when you said Derbys 👍
just picked up some Cole Haan Oxfords....Great advice
All those "casual" shoes look amazing with a suit and tie, much better than jeans and shirt.
First of all, great video. A video about a correction that also itself requires a correction; derbies and bluchers are slightly different types of shoes. Yes, some people call bluchers, derbies and vice-versa in common parlance but they are different. I think also, with the movie error, many people use "brogues" as a substitute for derbies as you say, more casual shoes have broguing, even though this is an incorrect description.
Traditionally in the UK. Brown leather brogues were a weekend country shoe. Not something you wore with a town style dress suit rather with tweed for country sports etc that would go with brogues. It's a bit like 'a man should never be seen in town wearing brown'. So traditionally an unbrogued plain black Oxford would be the correct shoe for a saville row style kingsman pinstripe suit.
Gr8 informative videos. It helps it all make sense. Looking at the details. I think what HHART meant was "wear oxfords, but just not brogue oxfords." (For this particular event). GR8 informative videos for accurate historic details. Thank you RMRS. I love my AE derbies quarter brogues! #everyday #DavidRomeroArtGallery
BTW, I like Crocs. Great for camping, running out to the mailbox, taking out the trash.
Yep, you should always wear shoes appropriate for the occasion or activity.
@@whitemakesright2177 In the case of Crocs its an occasion or activity where there's no chance another soul will ever see you.
What I’d really like to know is where to pick up a great pair of dress shoes in Rome or possibly Athens-$300-$500 price range.
Great explanations with a lot of useful infographics. Thanks! New sponsor after Ace Marks? Have you checked Velasca's shoes, of so what do you think?
THANK YOU!!! It's been bugging me forever.
Great video. But the gradient vignette gray background makes it look old. Can't go wrong with a flatter white, med gray, dark gray, or black.
Great video @Real Men Real Style, shoe types in a nutshell. However imo what he said was meant to be understood as:" oxfords WITHOUT brogue." Why did't he say it like that? It doesn't soud that epic. And what would he mean by saing:" oxfords without brouge?" Well as you said, brouge is more of a casual shoe type. I guess it was meant this way:" Stick to the basics" or something like that.
First type of Brogues Antonio is showing on 3:05 really are 1/4 or Quarter Brogues, or more correct Punched Cap Brogues because Quarter Brogues can have side broguing not only along the seam of cap. But they don’t have Medallion and Wingtip. And Semi Brogues really means the same like Half Brogues. So in this video there are mistakes too, not only in Kingsman.
order placed. thanks!
What confuses me is that a whole-cut can pass as extremely formal (possibly even white tie level) or casual with a pair of jeans.
Never seen another shoe that has that spectrum.
I think it's because it's such a blank canvas. It doesn't have any decoration at all, so there is nothing to make it especially formal or especially casual. Kind of like a white shirt - a white shirt goes with anything because of the absence of color.
Antonio, the answers were actually a cap-toe Oxford, a Wingtip Blucher and a plain toe with medallion Oxford. An important thing to note is that you don't call a shoe just by its decorations and you did that a lot (i.e. I have a pair of brogues, medallions, elastics and tassels), you call it by the style (such as Oxford, Chelsea, Derby) and then by its decorations if any.
In the movie, Harry had a problem with Eggsy because Eggsy used "brogues" as if it was an actual style of shoes, and Harry was right to correct him. Oxfords, not brogues.
If you walk into a shoe store and ask for a pair of brogues, the clerk is going to ask you to be more specific, because any type of shoe can have broguing.
In my opinion, this video might cause people to start calling their shoes and boots "brogues" and perhaps you should update the video to be more clear.
To add to that, in practice I don't see any shoemakers referring to shoes as "brogues." Instead, they refer to a shoe as "having brogueing" or similar.
Who would have thought . . . the "fancier" the shoe, the more casual it is?
The term is broguing. You are correct on all.
The two are not mutually exclusive as this gentleman pointed out... The character in the film told him to wear "Oxfords not brogues" meaning that he should wear Oxfords without brogues...any English speaker would understand this.
Eggsy was being shown how to elevate himself, IMO. Thanks for the video
Great video Antonio! Why do you think Hart wrongly says that oxfords have open lacing? Deliberate or writer's error?
3:04 - I don't mean to be a "brogue snob", but that is a quarter brogue.
You are fully right because first type of Brogues Antonio is showing are Quarter Brogues, or more correct Punched Cap Brogues because Quarter Brogues can have side broguing not only along the seam of cap. And Semi Brogues really mean the same like Half Brogues. So in this video there are mistakes too, not only in Kingsman.
Now I'd love to buy some shoes of them but you see I fear they won't fit me perfectly, how do I make sure they'll fit me?
Good! 👏👏👏
Thank you for the informative video but to understand why Harry says that watch the prequel to the movie
It gives the explanation to why he says that
The first shoe is an Oxford, or cap toe, or cap toe Oxford; no brogueing. The second shoe is a Balmoral with brogueing; because the brogue is continuous, front to back, without a break. The third shoe is an Oxford with brogueing and beautiful. Brogueing is a decoration/ perforation added to the seam. Brogue is not a type of shoe, it's a feature. Just like leather interior is a feature.
I just realized that I’ve been wearing cap toe derbies, not cap toe oxfords
It's confusing because a lot of shoe brands, especially in America, incorrectly refer to Derbies and Bluchers as Oxfords.
Maybe their interpretation is a clean impeccable understated elegance with NO ornamentation, remember they are KINGSMAN!!!!!
or maybe Harry should have said "Oxfords AND brogues" if he wanted it to rhymes ^^
btw, cool and informative video as always, Antonio! although i already know both terms (also thanks to your videos lol), this is the first time i've heard of the derby's history! great work Antonio!!
Top marks!
Balmoral is closed lacing, Blucher is open lacing. Brogues have perforation of varying degrees.
Don’t buy blake stitching, get Goodyear welts
I got all right. Whoohoo! Thanks to Hugk @ Sartorial Talks.
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Do you know the difference between Oxfords and Brogues? Comment below! 👇
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Whats the most fitting shoes for people that have flat feet?
I wish you could talk about clothes from other countries such as a Barong from the Philippines, etc...
sorry to be offtopic but does anyone know a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the password. I would love any help you can give me
@Everett Kane Instablaster :)
@Torin Wade thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and I'm in the hacking process now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.