What a great video! Thank you 😊👍 Like the way you explain everything. I have never heard about your last step. But it makes perfectly sence to me. From now on, I’m going to stop my drive sylinder half way in/out. Hopefully the piston cups will last longer. Like you said, it does’nt cost you anything. Thanks again :)
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 love that there is guys like you out there willing to provide free and helpful information!!! All the senior guys above me always answer with “I don’t know” whenever I ask a question about stuff on the pump or how to setup the job or whatever… They all also say “oh nobody taught me anything on these pumps, I got a 5 minute rundown and I had to learn on my own.” Then I got to learn the hard way on my own to reverse a few times when the line as a clog before removing a clamp…
Thank you brother, I’d been wanting to do this video for a awhile, just needed a day in which I wasn’t in a hurry either to get to another job, or home for dinner. 😁
Centering the material cups I believe is key to an extended piston cup life. Done it for years and years, totally makes sense, and like you said, it costs nothing. Back in the day of running the Thompson’s, always packed a 5 gallon pail of dirt/sand/ bark mulch. For that ever so easy hopper design, to clean at days end. Was curious on what the protocol is in your market, for raking out the wash out pile, we always rake it out unless specified otherwise from higher up’s on said specific sites. Or if it’s a designated wash out where raking out wash out piles was irrelevant.
Yes, it was John Beacom (check spelling of last name) from Gastaldo’s whom taught me that one many years ago. I, like yourself, swear by it. Bark mulch is my absolute favourite for dumping underneath of the large bearing, so much better than sand, in my opinion. Doesn’t harden up whatsoever. It’s funny, for the most part they like us to take down our washout piles, but I always still ask because inevitably if I rake it down without first asking, the builder inevitably calls two days later complaining that it should have been left in a pile as it would have been easier for his machine (which just magically appeared on site) to pick it up. But yes, same as you, my default is to take is down as thin as possible. My favourite is if I’m in a wide open area, I’ll suck back a trash can full of water into the hopper and let my washout self-level (just don’t try this in the city and have the slurry water run-off into the neighbours blueberry garden….. or so I’ve been told…) 😂😂😂
aside from lifting the grate and stopping the pistons half way, this is exactly the way I was taught to wash out. most of the time, ill ram each piston down in reverse with the stroke changer so I can see the faces. 6 of 1, half dozen the other. putz should include this video in their crash course DVD llol
I know at larger companies lifting the grate for anything is a big no-no to the point in which they actually sometimes have them bolted down. One of these days my back is going to NOT thank me for all the years of lifting that grate 😂😂😂
those hoses are crazy lol only seen them myself in edmonton but having spent majority of my career in toronto where its pretty exclusively 10’ sections those seemed huge
We’re spoiled in that we run mostly 3” and smaller diameter line. If we were lugging around the 4” and 5” hose like they do in Ontario, we’d likely be rock’N the 10’ lengths as well.
The cup on the ass end is for priming out you don’t have to ever plugout whem priming out, the pin on the cup is a ball 🏀 catcher so don’t have to worrie about chopping the ball in half, I always bring the hose to the hopper and put the waterhose nosel and holding it with the ball shot like about 5 gallons bucket through the pipes, when suctioning the ball, but make sure you press the pin and clean the cup from the inside of the 90
you will like that milwaukee grease gun a lot more with a lock-n-lube quick attach for the greaser, and one of their swivels on the hose... I have the M12 version, and it is so much nicer to use.
Lol the water hose blew apart on the 56 last week Saturday. Barrels/s-tube were done, so no biggie. I wash from the discharge side, while stroking in reverse. Bottom out the cylinders after the trap is popped to push the majority out. Most of what we do is preferences. Cool to see other ways. Stay safe brother
I began doing this religiously after running out of water mid-washout with our old line-pump 20-something years ago (had to get the barrels and S-tube cleaned out with a pressure washer back at our yard). Learned a lesson that day indeed. Totally agree. There’s so many different ways of achieving essentially the same thing in this trade, a lot of it really is just situational.
How busy is it up there Scott is the economy doing pretty good up there where it would be worth me getting my passport and coming up there for a while and working
It has slowed significantly here in the last couple of months. Our current federal government has done seemingly everything in their power to slow the economy. I suspect that things will not pick back up until at least fall of 2025, when hopefully the current clown-show in office is not re-elected.
I’ll often do the same if I’m travelling to another job site in the same day. Days end however, I always like to open up the back end to make certain there’s no buildup in the S-tube (we do a lot of slow pours).
I like the tip about making sure the sponge is there by busting open the transition door to take a look before dumping the hopper. I never thought about the vacuum. Would be really nice if you had an S-tube changeover lever though 😆
It does actually have a manual changeover button (the newer Putz rigs have a more easily accessible changeover leaver). Neither style work however once the hopper grate safety switch is tripped and the accumulator pressure dumped.
That’, good idea for sure. We keep them one our high-pressure pumps which have the extended discharge outlet (makes it difficult to get in there with the water nozzle). Definitely saves on time and water usage 👌👌👌
So, If I were to try to reverse clean my line pump, sucking the sponge from the discharge end back to the hopper, I wouldnt get suction unless there was enough material in the hopper to cover the material cups?
Typically speaking, yes. The material cylinders need to be fully submerged in either concrete or water to produce the vacuum required for pulling back half a boom system filled with concrete + a sponge. I have seen cases where it will still pull back even with the hopper level below the material cylinders, but I certainly wouldn’t count on it.
What year is that truck? When i was a pump operator the only interlock in the hopper was your hydraulic water pump. You could have the grate up and the s tube would still cycle and the mixer would spin but the mixer would turn off as soon as the water was pump was turned on. That pump was a putz 32 meter around a 2001 or 2002.
CPMA standard since I believe around the early-mid 2000’s all were required to have the hopper grate safety cutout switch. That being said, not all manufacturers were/are CPMA certified. It’s definitely something you want to have on a concrete pump. There’s been a number of extremely gruesome incidents and fatalities from machines either not having the switch, or having had it bypassed.
I've run Schwing and Putzmeister and a few other make and I've found Schwing is the best for cleaning out and running Putzmeister comes 2nd that's what I think
Yes, many wise veterans have mentioned the exact same to me. I believe the rock-valve hopper is more “self-cleaning” as there’s less stationary components inside of the hopper as compared to a Putz.
If my sponge is not fully back i make sure the s tube is submerged in water then try to suck back the sponge And first clean the hopper and the cilinders and no dirt only some formoil
We do so many slow/tedious pours with hot mixes, sand/dirt is seemingly the only way to avoid buildup underneath of the large bearing. I pumped 800 cubic meters in 9 hours with this thing last Saturday, I had forgotten what a treat washouts can be when the mud is kept flowing all day long.
I was surprised at how many others have since mentioned to me that that they do the same and also swear that their piston cups last longer. I do believe there is something to it.
You wouldn't believe how many people destroy their large or small seal housings due to lack of grease or just relying on the auto-greaser and not even checking to make sure there are no plugs and everything is getting greased. Then they bring them in for service and say the seal housing is shit because it didn't last. I guess they don't realize once we take it apart it is pretty apparent if it hasn't been greased properly. Cheapest and best form of maintenance is grease.
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 We have a few customers who won't run them on the fleet exactly for that reason. It's hard to find good guys that you know you can trust 100% to grease it everytime.
I actually only change out the water in the box maybe once a week. In my opinion, the practice of dumping it daily (unless ambient temperatures dip below freezing) was/is more of a Schwing thing as they can tend to pull water from the box in past the rod seals and contaminate the hydraulic oil. Just my opinion. Either way, definitely no harm in dumping it daily, I just haven’t found it to be necessary practice with our Putzmeister pumps.
You should wash and drain out your water box we have found if you drain it at the end of the day you get less water mixing with the Hydraulic oil. Plus we have a sign saying fill water box at your control's so you don't foget
You’re absolutely right! I’ve been told that it’s especially important with the Schwing as they can be more prone to pulling water in through the rod seals.
As Greg had stated, you definitely want to get the Putz version. The ConForms unit relies on an O-ring for sealing, which gets sloppy and leaks. The Putz unit is near bulletproof.
I am new pump operator,only operating for 3 months now.. what advice you have for me would appreciate to hear it….ps I from a small island 🏝️ name Sint Maarten 🇸🇽
Best advice I could give would be to develop a routine of what works and not deviate from it until such time as the situation calls for it or until you gain enough confidence experience to start tweaking things to gain efficiency. Always stay humble no matter how long you’ve been doing this, it’s a constantly evolving profession and the minute an operator thinks they know everything is the minute they begin to regress. But the most important one item of advice I could give (aside from the obvious use dunnage under your outriggers and stay away from power lines), ALWAYS recirculate when waiting on mud. 23 years and I’ve literally not once had a boom party and it’s 95% attributable to the fact that I recirculate religiously (the remaining 5% is just luck that I haven’t tossed a fan-belt or tensioner with nuclear hot mud in the pump) 😂😂😂. Just be diligent.
They don’t wipe the pipes clean nearly as well as the rubberized round sponges do. Also, they do not seal air as well (especially when brand new). The biggest reason however is that with the foam cubes you can rinse and wring them clean for 10 minutes straight and they seemingly still become rock hard after over a weekend. In my opinion, the rubberized round sponges are just quicker/easier/more efficient. in most every way, in my opinion. I’ve seen the rubberized round balls last more than a year on several occasions.
Truth be told, most of our residential work (aside from foundations) is poured using 2.5” or even 2” hose. Commercial we typically run a 3.5” or 4” for boom work and 3.5” for line work. We’re fairly spoiled here with our mixes/materials.
Why not use the remote...rather than lifting the grate... pump on in reverse... hold the change over button to max out a stroke.. pump off... rinse out... pump on reverse again.. hit and hold change over button again to switch stube over.. pump off and rinse.. done.. barrels clean
I prefer lifting the grate as I can get a nice straight shot up into the barrels with the water nozzle. We do a lot of slow pours in which the piston heads as well as the ends of the cylinders get caked up pretty good, so it’s helpful to be able to get the water right up in there.
Some of the high rise mixes we pump here exceed 10,000 psi. Washout process is essentially the same, just takes A LOT more elbow grease/jackhammering 😂
There certainly are ways to washout faster, but this video was intended to depict cleaning and greasing everything 100%. If I’m heading to another job the same day, I will expedite the process somewhat, but at days end like this, I will prioritize getting things perfectly clean and greased versus trying to save a couple of minutes time. Being in a rush/cutting corners during the clean-out procedure can and will come back to haunt an operator down the road. Pumping ain’t a race. Being in a mad rush leads to bad things in this industry.
@@dave-th8dx I understand. Those guys are idiots. I however am the best in the world based on my years in the industry, I have mastered every machine, mastered working on all machines including welding and fabrication, I’ve worked for several manufacturers to the point where they call me for advice, plus I’ve been on the cover of the concrete pumping magazine. 3 times. I am truly the best.
What a great video! Thank you 😊👍 Like the way you explain everything. I have never heard about your last step. But it makes perfectly sence to me. From now on, I’m going to stop my drive sylinder half way in/out. Hopefully the piston cups will last longer. Like you said, it does’nt cost you anything. Thanks again :)
Great tips from the veteran ! 💥 💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥💥
I run a schwing line pump and this video helped me thank you
Love hearing this 👌👌👌
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 love that there is guys like you out there willing to provide free and helpful information!!!
All the senior guys above me always answer with “I don’t know” whenever I ask a question about stuff on the pump or how to setup the job or whatever… They all also say “oh nobody taught me anything on these pumps, I got a 5 minute rundown and I had to learn on my own.”
Then I got to learn the hard way on my own to reverse a few times when the line as a clog before removing a clamp…
i Havre really learn so much from your videos👍
The best type of comment! 😁😁😁
I’m glad you’re finding the channel helpful 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
that aint to bad, nice explanation as usual
Thank you brother, I’d been wanting to do this video for a awhile, just needed a day in which I wasn’t in a hurry either to get to another job, or home for dinner. 😁
Resting the cylinders at mid stroke totally makes sense. I am certainly going to add that to my routine. Thanks.
It definitely does seem to extend the life of the cups. And the best part, it’s absolutely free!!! 😁😁😁
you are amazing
Hola hermano de el bombeo yo tengo 16 años de opredaron en Mexico y amo nuestro trabajo bendiciones y muy buena limpieza de equipo
Centering the material cups I believe is key to an extended piston cup life. Done it for years and years, totally makes sense, and like you said, it costs nothing. Back in the day of running the Thompson’s, always packed a 5 gallon pail of dirt/sand/ bark mulch. For that ever so easy hopper design, to clean at days end. Was curious on what the protocol is in your market, for raking out the wash out pile, we always rake it out unless specified otherwise from higher up’s on said specific sites. Or if it’s a designated wash out where raking out wash out piles was irrelevant.
Yes, it was John Beacom (check spelling of last name) from Gastaldo’s whom taught me that one many years ago. I, like yourself, swear by it. Bark mulch is my absolute favourite for dumping underneath of the large bearing, so much better than sand, in my opinion. Doesn’t harden up whatsoever.
It’s funny, for the most part they like us to take down our washout piles, but I always still ask because inevitably if I rake it down without first asking, the builder inevitably calls two days later complaining that it should have been left in a pile as it would have been easier for his machine (which just magically appeared on site) to pick it up. But yes, same as you, my default is to take is down as thin as possible. My favourite is if I’m in a wide open area, I’ll suck back a trash can full of water into the hopper and let my washout self-level (just don’t try this in the city and have the slurry water run-off into the neighbours blueberry garden….. or so I’ve been told…) 😂😂😂
aside from lifting the grate and stopping the pistons half way, this is exactly the way I was taught to wash out. most of the time, ill ram each piston down in reverse with the stroke changer so I can see the faces. 6 of 1, half dozen the other. putz should include this video in their crash course DVD llol
I know at larger companies lifting the grate for anything is a big no-no to the point in which they actually sometimes have them bolted down. One of these days my back is going to NOT thank me for all the years of lifting that grate 😂😂😂
those hoses are crazy lol only seen them myself in edmonton but having spent majority of my career in toronto where its pretty exclusively 10’ sections those seemed huge
We’re spoiled in that we run mostly 3” and smaller diameter line. If we were lugging around the 4” and 5” hose like they do in Ontario, we’d likely be rock’N the 10’ lengths as well.
The cup on the ass end is for priming out you don’t have to ever plugout whem priming out, the pin on the cup is a ball 🏀 catcher so don’t have to worrie about chopping the ball in half, I always bring the hose to the hopper and put the waterhose nosel and holding it with the ball shot like about 5 gallons bucket through the pipes, when suctioning the ball, but make sure you press the pin and clean the cup from the inside of the 90
you will like that milwaukee grease gun a lot more with a lock-n-lube quick attach for the greaser, and one of their swivels on the hose... I have the M12 version, and it is so much nicer to use.
Привет из России! Спасибо за видео! Хороших заказов!
Lol the water hose blew apart on the 56 last week Saturday. Barrels/s-tube were done, so no biggie.
I wash from the discharge side, while stroking in reverse. Bottom out the cylinders after the trap is popped to push the majority out.
Most of what we do is preferences. Cool to see other ways. Stay safe brother
You lost barrels and s tube because the water hose blew?
@@DerekCastleSr. I’m assuming he means “done” as in already cleaned out.
I began doing this religiously after running out of water mid-washout with our old line-pump 20-something years ago (had to get the barrels and S-tube cleaned out with a pressure washer back at our yard). Learned a lesson that day indeed.
Totally agree. There’s so many different ways of achieving essentially the same thing in this trade, a lot of it really is just situational.
@@DerekCastleSr. Done, as in already washed out, no material left in the barrels/swing tube, no big deal to power wash the hopper at the yard.
hello！goodpump👍
How busy is it up there Scott is the economy doing pretty good up there where it would be worth me getting my passport and coming up there for a while and working
It has slowed significantly here in the last couple of months. Our current federal government has done seemingly everything in their power to slow the economy. I suspect that things will not pick back up until at least fall of 2025, when hopefully the current clown-show in office is not re-elected.
We usually open the prime out port, take the sponge out, then we shove I think about 2.5inch hose there flushing it out while pumping in reverse
I’ll often do the same if I’m travelling to another job site in the same day. Days end however, I always like to open up the back end to make certain there’s no buildup in the S-tube (we do a lot of slow pours).
Ouch.. always check your sponge is back prior to folding up.
I like the tip about making sure the sponge is there by busting open the transition door to take a look before dumping the hopper. I never thought about the vacuum. Would be really nice if you had an S-tube changeover lever though 😆
It does actually have a manual changeover button (the newer Putz rigs have a more easily accessible changeover leaver). Neither style work however once the hopper grate safety switch is tripped and the accumulator pressure dumped.
I learned that lesson my very time sucking back the sponge. It was in my reducing cannon when I busted open the trap door. Lesson learned! 😂
I wash out the same way but I use a wash out rake for my s tube cut down on water
That’, good idea for sure. We keep them one our high-pressure pumps which have the extended discharge outlet (makes it difficult to get in there with the water nozzle). Definitely saves on time and water usage 👌👌👌
So, If I were to try to reverse clean my line pump, sucking the sponge from the discharge end back to the hopper, I wouldnt get suction unless there was enough material in the hopper to cover the material cups?
Typically speaking, yes. The material cylinders need to be fully submerged in either concrete or water to produce the vacuum required for pulling back half a boom system filled with concrete + a sponge. I have seen cases where it will still pull back even with the hopper level below the material cylinders, but I certainly wouldn’t count on it.
What year is that truck? When i was a pump operator the only interlock in the hopper was your hydraulic water pump. You could have the grate up and the s tube would still cycle and the mixer would spin but the mixer would turn off as soon as the water was pump was turned on. That pump was a putz 32 meter around a 2001 or 2002.
CPMA standard since I believe around the early-mid 2000’s all were required to have the hopper grate safety cutout switch. That being said, not all manufacturers were/are CPMA certified. It’s definitely something you want to have on a concrete pump. There’s been a number of extremely gruesome incidents and fatalities from machines either not having the switch, or having had it bypassed.
I've run Schwing and Putzmeister and a few other make and I've found Schwing is the best for cleaning out and running Putzmeister comes 2nd that's what I think
Yes, many wise veterans have mentioned the exact same to me. I believe the rock-valve hopper is more “self-cleaning” as there’s less stationary components inside of the hopper as compared to a Putz.
I want to install that hose reel on my pump do you remember which reel you bought?
This one was a factory installed option from Putz. Bloody expensive these hose reels are too!!!
If my sponge is not fully back i make sure the s tube is submerged in water then try to suck back the sponge
And first clean the hopper and the cilinders and no dirt only some formoil
We do so many slow/tedious pours with hot mixes, sand/dirt is seemingly the only way to avoid buildup underneath of the large bearing. I pumped 800 cubic meters in 9 hours with this thing last Saturday, I had forgotten what a treat washouts can be when the mud is kept flowing all day long.
Any update on the piston cup/drive cylinder weight wear and tear theory?
I was surprised at how many others have since mentioned to me that that they do the same and also swear that their piston cups last longer. I do believe there is something to it.
You wouldn't believe how many people destroy their large or small seal housings due to lack of grease or just relying on the auto-greaser and not even checking to make sure there are no plugs and everything is getting greased. Then they bring them in for service and say the seal housing is shit because it didn't last. I guess they don't realize once we take it apart it is pretty apparent if it hasn't been greased properly. Cheapest and best form of maintenance is grease.
That’s the one thing I don’t like about auto-greasers, they can lead to complacency/negligence.
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 We have a few customers who won't run them on the fleet exactly for that reason. It's hard to find good guys that you know you can trust 100% to grease it everytime.
Do you drop the water from your piston box ? Why?
I actually only change out the water in the box maybe once a week. In my opinion, the practice of dumping it daily (unless ambient temperatures dip below freezing) was/is more of a Schwing thing as they can tend to pull water from the box in past the rod seals and contaminate the hydraulic oil. Just my opinion. Either way, definitely no harm in dumping it daily, I just haven’t found it to be necessary practice with our Putzmeister pumps.
How many gallons of water on average is needed to clean up using the sponge water sponge method?
I’m going to say around 60 gallons. My water tank holds 145 gallons and I can washout twice in a day before needing to refill it.
@05:00 and someone with OCD is going nuts because you are not spraying the hopper clean before the S-Tube 😂
Lol! It’s so true!!! 😂😂😂
You should wash and drain out your water box we have found if you drain it at the end of the day you get less water mixing with the Hydraulic oil. Plus we have a sign saying fill water box at your control's so you don't foget
we empty it out every time we wash out at the end of the day
You’re absolutely right! I’ve been told that it’s especially important with the Schwing as they can be more prone to pulling water in through the rod seals.
where did you get the ball stopper
Putz sells em, so does conforms. I like the Putz version better. The conforms rod seems loose, almost "wiggly". Scott's looks like the Putz version
As Greg had stated, you definitely want to get the Putz version. The ConForms unit relies on an O-ring for sealing, which gets sloppy and leaks. The Putz unit is near bulletproof.
I am new pump operator,only operating for 3 months now.. what advice you have for me would appreciate to hear it….ps I from a small island 🏝️ name Sint Maarten 🇸🇽
Best advice I could give would be to develop a routine of what works and not deviate from it until such time as the situation calls for it or until you gain enough confidence experience to start tweaking things to gain efficiency. Always stay humble no matter how long you’ve been doing this, it’s a constantly evolving profession and the minute an operator thinks they know everything is the minute they begin to regress. But the most important one item of advice I could give (aside from the obvious use dunnage under your outriggers and stay away from power lines), ALWAYS recirculate when waiting on mud. 23 years and I’ve literally not once had a boom party and it’s 95% attributable to the fact that I recirculate religiously (the remaining 5% is just luck that I haven’t tossed a fan-belt or tensioner with nuclear hot mud in the pump) 😂😂😂. Just be diligent.
@@canadianconcretepumper1979 thank you
Good morning
Good morning to you sir!
Why do you hate the cube?
They don’t wipe the pipes clean nearly as well as the rubberized round sponges do. Also, they do not seal air as well (especially when brand new). The biggest reason however is that with the foam cubes you can rinse and wring them clean for 10 minutes straight and they seemingly still become rock hard after over a weekend. In my opinion, the rubberized round sponges are just quicker/easier/more efficient. in most every way, in my opinion. I’ve seen the rubberized round balls last more than a year on several occasions.
Wow must be a nice feeling using 3inch pipelines 😂 instead of mauling with 4inch here in the uk
Truth be told, most of our residential work (aside from foundations) is poured using 2.5” or even 2” hose. Commercial we typically run a 3.5” or 4” for boom work and 3.5” for line work. We’re fairly spoiled here with our mixes/materials.
Hi pro
Why not use the remote...rather than lifting the grate... pump on in reverse... hold the change over button to max out a stroke.. pump off... rinse out... pump on reverse again.. hit and hold change over button again to switch stube over.. pump off and rinse.. done.. barrels clean
I prefer lifting the grate as I can get a nice straight shot up into the barrels with the water nozzle. We do a lot of slow pours in which the piston heads as well as the ends of the cylinders get caked up pretty good, so it’s helpful to be able to get the water right up in there.
The method you suggest would likely add years to the life expectancy of my back however 😁😁😁
Get the Hoseman to do it.
I want to see you clean out a hopper with a seven sack concrete mix
Fellow pumper from Houston tx
Some of the high rise mixes we pump here exceed 10,000 psi. Washout process is essentially the same, just takes A LOT more elbow grease/jackhammering 😂
Owe.. That is not the way to clean, it's so slowly. But thank you for trying to clean buddy.
There certainly are ways to washout faster, but this video was intended to depict cleaning and greasing everything 100%. If I’m heading to another job the same day, I will expedite the process somewhat, but at days end like this, I will prioritize getting things perfectly clean and greased versus trying to save a couple of minutes time. Being in a rush/cutting corners during the clean-out procedure can and will come back to haunt an operator down the road.
Pumping ain’t a race. Being in a mad rush leads to bad things in this industry.
I'm pump oprater work in riyadh Nine year work
Thank you for supporting the channel brother 🙏🙏🙏
We wash out identically on an S tube machine and I’m one of the best operators in the world so that’s saying something!
^^^this comment wins!!!^^^ Pump-on brother 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Every concrete pump operator I've ever met claims to be the best in the world
@@dave-th8dx I understand. Those guys are idiots. I however am the best in the world based on my years in the industry, I have mastered every machine, mastered working on all machines including welding and fabrication, I’ve worked for several manufacturers to the point where they call me for advice, plus I’ve been on the cover of the concrete pumping magazine. 3 times. I am truly the best.
I always tell my guys open the swing 90 first for that reason. Common sense isn’t so common
I know right? And it’s not like it’s any more difficult or even slows things down in comparison to doing it the other/(wrong, in my opinion) way.