5 Reasons You NEED All Round Quickdraws | Climbing Daily Ep.1512
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2024
- Get the Camp/Cassin Photon quickdraws: bit.ly/2OKeLIt
Wild Country Proton: bit.ly/2VzXXoB
Petzl Ange Finesse: bit.ly/30ZS9pK
As climbing gear gets more sophisticated and specific is there still a place for all round equipment. On today's Gear Show we take a look at all round quickdraws and why you need them on your rack...
5 Reasons You NEED All Round Quickdraws | Climbing Daily Ep.1512 - Sport
7:23 As climbers, we don't like to spend money on nonessential items.
**wearing an Arc'teryx shirt**
I got an arc'teryx Advertisement right there :D
I couldn't agree more with you Matt about your opinion on draws. I'm the same when it comes to gear versatility.
However, you'll find that it is the snap-gates that actually open when shaked, not the wire-gates.
My “all round” quick draws are alpine draws. Not extended for sport, and mostly extended for trad. I used the same hood-wires for both ends (bolt/rope) and in hindsight (although still possible for me to do) If I were to do it again I’d have one type of biner for the bolt end, and another for the rope end, to avoid the little metal burrs created on the bolt end biners on lead falls on sport climbs, because mine are the same biner in both ends, the ends get swapped out all the time and For sure I’m creating more wear on my ropes Because of it.
Would you do a video on building up a trad rack from scratch over time?
That would be a sick topic!
It's worth noting that glue-in bolts don't do much damage to 'biners. Add a couple of sport draws with wide tape and burly 'biners for the odd sport crux that find yourself working (that might have sharper bolt hangers). Similarly, don't be afraid of swapping in a few burly 'biners on the rock end of your all-round draws if you're on a long sport climbing trip.
Good analysis man, thanks!
Not sure I agree. As someone who climbs sport and trad and dabbles in Scottish mixed when it's in (never), I will always choose the right tools for the job. I can understand if you're on a trip and limited for baggage purposes but 9 times out of 10 it's no biggie to chuck both in the back of the car if you're not sure what you'll be getting on. Also if you're going on a trip then chances are you have an objective and know what gear you'll need. It does mean I basically have 3 different racks, but if you're climbing more than once a week for several years then it's a small price to pay.
Here's several disadvantages to these allround draws:
For trad - way too short. Drag would be horrific and they will manipulate each piece of gear to a dangerous level where they're more likely to lift pieces out. Can't easily be disassembled or extended.
For sport - still too short (an awkward fall could make it unclip itself from the bolt). Not rigid or ergonomic enough; Don't handle well like a nice chunky sport draw with a fat nylon sling and solid gate. Wire-gates might save a bit of weight but don't have a clean nose, which means they can snag on hangers and potentially snap the krab (!). Lightweight but not robust; Won't last long if you're taking whippers on bolts.
The only reason to buy allround draws is when you're first starting out and you don't know what you're going to be climbing or whether you'll be climbing at all in a years' time (no one wants to jizz a load of money on a new hobby right off the bat).
Just my 2p.
I tend to agree with you Paul.
Totally agree with the main points; personally I like my Black Diamond Freewire draws.
I have to disagree on buying non-essential gear. Who doesn't love bringing a double rack up to 5 inches on a gritstone vs
Been there, done that and its awesome
More rack more honeys
The most importend place I need a Quickdraw is on my backpack .So everybody can see my identity 😂
I just wear my harness wherever I go.
@@randomness96 :-))))
Wire gates does not move when you hit them, the gates similar to the bd positron does
Gate flutter can happen to any QuickDraw, but they happen less to wiregates
Hello, I would like to know what is it that the dog bones are getting shorter, I personally love the 18 cm (give or take) and its not easy to find them now a days, like this one 11 cm.
I just use my sport draws as all round draws. Sure there a little heavier but it’s not too bad. The only argument I’d see is alpine, or big walling. With most multipitches I only bring a few to go with my set of alpine draws and can barley feel them with the rest of my trad gear.
Can I give a suggestion for a future video? I would like to see a demonstration on how to bail from a sport route if you cannot make it to the top. What are the different options once you cannot go any higher?
How do you recover your quickdraws?
I've always used an inexpensive heavy duty screw locking chain link that I got from the hardware store. We lovingly refer to them as "ditch rings". Put them in where your draw is and either rappel or get lowered from the ditch ring. Metolius makes some that are also incredibly inexpensive, they're called Quick Links. If given the option of losing $4 or $20, the choice becomes pretty clear.
I agree though, a video on safe bailing would be very informative.
@@petet3025 DO NOT DO THIS. Quick links have a tendency to rust shut and become impossible to open and remove. Causing problems for other climbers. Just use a cheap biner. I have about thirty bail biners that I have found on routes. Climb more and you will find some too. I bootied a quick draw and three lockers in the last two weeks. A thank you to those who left them for me
The thing that bothers me the most is the little hook thing that fit the wire gate.
For the rope carabiners that's no issue, but they tend to grab the hanger.
For that reason I like the mix quickdraws with the wire gate for the rope and a solid one for the hangers
ridiculous.
I also like using wire gates with no notch, or a recessed notch. These include the Petzl Ange, BD Hoodwire, or Wild Country Helium. My entire trad rack is built on Hoodwires for that reason.
I like the general idea of this video.
Not mentionned in the video but keylock is really important. Unclipping wire gates in overhangs can be really hard
Not a concern for an all around draw. Wire gates are lighter and safer.
@@johntuttle9544 Yes it's lighter but harder to clip quickly beacause the gate is not bend ans if it's all round you also use it for sport climbing. And for sport keylock is truely usefull.
@@FreakyExperiment It also is less likely to come unclipped. Look, for Sport test pieces, get some DMM Alpha Sport draws but for all around (ie clipping nuts in cracks or saving weight) a wire gate is better.
In terms of unclipping on overhangs you can get hoodied biners as well.
was legit expecting this to be a video about circular draws lol
okay what editor plays TF2?
Should put a link to Photon Wire draws in description...
They’re there, right at the top 😊
Well, bugger me...picked up a set. Great price in the gear shop:)
TF2!!!
They don't look very round to me.
I've always had the impression that CAMP equipment was kind of cheap, and I've never been brave enough to save the money buying them instead of a "better" brand. After using them for a while, would you trust them as much as a Black Diamond or Petzl quickdraw?
what do people think about brands in general when it comes to climbing? Does that reassure you about quality (important for safety gear)? Or do you feel you're paying a premium for the brand name?
PLEASE, No complaint about the Petzl Finesse Carabiner: they come in two sizes! you show here only the small version
The small ones are on the top when you buy the draw set. The ARE too fiddly.
There is a 2 x Large option.
Did it confuse anyone else how he kept calling them "all round quickdraws" despite them clearly being more oval shaped?
Id rather have one rack of 10 sport and one of 5/6 all around and 5/6 extended 60cm webbing with light carabiners. you cover all aspects
and im from argentina ,so , no money on this side of the world!
Yup me too. I have the DMM Alpha Sport for my sport rack and perhaps 16 lightweight, varied length DMM Spectre for my trad stuff. I'm not rich, far from it, but as even the soft sections last around 5-10 years I can't see the point of stressing about a single set of all-rounders.
Do a review on magnus's chalk bag!
It'd be a bit of a boring review...it's just a basic chalkbag aha 😅 if you like the style though and want to support Magnus then go for it!
@@christopherdavidhall yeahh that's true lol. I just want to give myself a reason to buy it. 😂
They obviously review what they sell!
Hoho
Why euros though??
Because it is a european channel based in Chamonix, France?
because the majority of Europe uses euros
@@luquinhasleiva hahaha
No such thing as AllRound draws, this are just good light weight sport draws. Wouldn't go multipitching with these
Why?
12 times 68g (816g) vs 12 times 120g (1440g) doesn not make any difference for your climbing.
It's like a 120kg / 250 lbs person paying twice the amount for climbing gear, or carbon fibre upgrades to his motorcycle. He'd loose more taking a shit.
you don't....
If the draws are in place it's a pinkpoint, not a redpoint. As far as I'm concerned I don't think anything 14d (9a) has ever been redpointed on lead, only pinkpointed. I'd be more impressed with someone sending 9a placing the draws themselves than someone pinkpointing 9c+. Where does the real difficulty come in? I think placing the gear is part of the sport. Pre hanging draws is not a true lead redpoint. Same as doing it on toprope. That's a redpoint, sure, but not the same as a lead redpoint.
No dodgy advice in this one then? Guessing it will last online longer than the last gear show.
What was that?
The only thing dodgy in this one is Matt's haircut ;)
Well in this review apparently wire gates open on impacts. While the contrary is true.
@@SeraphinoII I was going to point this out. Gate flutter affects solid gates much more than wire gates (not that you'd pry my DMM Alpha Sport draws away from me).