Disregard the negative comments or the "thumbs down". Make your own video before criticizing someone. Excellent job for those of us who may run into this issue. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Method 1 helped me remove a broken power steering bolt from the engine block. So relieved to not visit a mechanic over that. Took about 5-7 minutes of tapping the screwdriver, till I finally reached it with needle nose pliers and then fingers. Much appreciate your video!
You saved my life. Pulley bolt on my washing machine snapped and I don’t know how much it would have cost to fix without this video. Thanks to you, I got the snapped screw bolt out and it cost me £4 to fix my washing machine. Thanks!
I want to deeply thank you for this video. It saved me from a serious issue I had with my car. I broke a bolt on the coil pack and lucky me it had a small topper left to hammer with a wedge. it knocked it loose. Thanks.
One of the best ways I've found to remove broken bolts is to use a tool of some sort and cut across the bolt surface to create a groove/slot for a standard screw-driver. A "dremel" (rotary tool) with the tiny cutting wheel works best for nearly every application. As long as the bolt isn't rusted in or bottomed out in the hole, the bolt will turn out. Using heat will make a big difference if it's a stubborn bolt.
Great video as a young (still learning) mechanic myself i sometimes break and strip a lot of old rusty bolts all the time. these methods are life savers because knows if you dont know how to get a bolt out it will hold you back hours on a job. sometimes simple jobs which suck. thanks
Thank you for these complete recipes. They would have saved my day more than once if I only had known some of them. In my humble opinion, most of the dislikes (1635 versus 2328 at this moment) may come from people already experienced on this, so the video did not add up to their knowledge.
These are great tips/tools to keep in your mind when you are stuck in the field, the more ideas the better. Thank you for posting, Ciao, L For those who like to criticize engineers should know that most engineers love what they are doing (as they studied so many years studying engineering) and have been experimenting in the field for years, "on their own".
If you have part of the stud protruding out of the hole, you could partially grind a parallel flat on the stud and then use some pliers to spin it out of the hole. Or you could grind a slot in it and use a slotted screwdriver to extract it as well. But there is many way you could go about this. There really isn't a wrong or right way as well. As long as you are able to remove the broken stud and not damage the threads, you are golden.
5:59 Bolt extractors are not cheap and they break easily if you turn them like that. If the broken bolt is at all stiff then use the same two-handed wrench as at 8:29 to avoid side force.
Actually there's nothing saying it had to be the same size bold. THerefore, a possible method 8 would have been to drill out the clean hole and thread for a larger bolt (no helicoil needed).
With method 6 you should retap the thread afterwards just to clean up any damage. A variant of this that I've done is to make the hole big enough to get a junior hacksaw blade through it then cut at least 2 parallel slots through the chamber of the hole towards the edge of the thread. Then collapse in the screws shell. I use a tool from a lathe that looks like a mini flattish chisel, not a screwdriver.
You can also drill with about 3 mm drill and hammer a TORX bit into the hole. Works great on M6 bolts and other smaller ones. This method doesn't ruin the thread if you drill carefully. And also usually once the cap of has been removed from a bolt that's stuck, the rest of the threaded part comes off really nicely.
+Jarrod P There are some countrys where Bolt and Screw ar different things, e.g. Germany, google "Bolzen" which is "Bolt" and the "Schraube" which is "Screw", then you will see
Thanks for the helpful video. I just used technique #1 with a jewel screwdriver and a light hammer to extract a tiny broken screw from a $700 piece of lab equipment. Only took 5 minutes.
Best investment for doing the work featured in the video is a set of Left Handed Drill bits, Carbide bits, small chisels, long tapered centre point punches. The reducer threads should have been cleaned with alcohol / acetone / ether before applying the thread locker,(likewise the parent threaded fixture.) "Staking" the insert (neatly) when in position is also a guarantee against failure. The person in the video means well, but does not appear to have a lot of experience / skill in performing that kind of task.
If using an "Easy Out" Extractor. Get the center punch dead center for best results and then turn the extractor evenly with a Tap Wrench (from a tap and die set). Using a spanner/grips will put a bending force on the extractor, which being brittle hardened steel puts it at risk of snapping. Take note this is not just being a pedant. In this demo the bolt is not seized, and extractor is not under stress. In real life you'll regret not using the correct tool pretty quickly.
One of the best clip on this topic and best video on CZcams i will recommend to viewer please watch it till end..all method all together. ..thanks and give it 5 star out of 5 star....
Awww, bless your heart! They started giving retards access to the internet! Good for you, Corky! Now slap the table loudly and laugh as you click through CZcams videos with your sausage shaped hands!!
+cornelis email I agree, the guy who made this video must be an engineer because he thinks he knows what he's doing and has clearly never remove a frozen bolt
+mopar43v3r With the pinpoint chisel he makes a groove and uses that to push the bolt backwards. With flathead chisel at least I use existing grooves to push it backwards. That's why I said it's no the same.
+Stev Rex I think you're illustrating my point more than I am for you. Your panties are so twisted. It's like you're an angry girl. That's cool though I don't judge.
Where is this great review you speak of? P.S. Don't brag about leaving a "great review". It's as tacky as proudly shouting to your waitress (across the room) that you left her $4 in cash plus $5 coupons as a tip.
Got my back to the TV trying out my own method with a rubber band and pliers! Of course it's not budging I need a man of skills to do this. The screw has broken in my dining table's steel leg. MAN
+notoriouskelly I would have appreciated this information when I was a teenager. Fifty years later, I know all these methods and could suggest a couple more, but they are still handy for those who are just starting out.
Technically professionals get paid and critiquing is one of the main or most important elements of CZcams. Hence there "always lots of...critics on CZcams" *Note: If you liked this video then you also are critiquing...
In the first three methods... if the screw (actually a bolt!) were that loose that it could be tapped out with a hammer, screwdriver, or chisel... how did it break off in the first place? In my experience, a broken screw or bolt occurs because the tolerance is so tight that the screw or bolt will not turn without extreme force...
+joonas meriläinen In our workshop workers do something like reverse sharpening of regular drill bit then drill that nut in "left" direction, if that doesnt help, overdrill and larger bore spindle, or welding ... but we use more then this simple 7 anyway....
+jim sanker Yeah. Helicoil the way to go. I've had to do many, many reel clamp bolt holes on the Penn International "T" (tube frame) series as they used chromed brass bolts. The salt would corrode aluminum and the bolts wring(sp?) off. 1/4 x 20 Helicoil and good as new (never to corrode again!).
Tibor Végh while that's true, it's also an eponym. Since Loctite is the company that developed the formula, and at one time only made the one product, it's name is used generically, and anyone with any experience in engineering will know what I meant. Anything else is all symantics.
I know what you mean, like when all insulated drink containers are called a thermos, no matter who made them. I did however intend my comment to be read be people with engineering experience. After all, it's a video where a mechanic or engineer is showing tips and tricks. I believe the audience, in large, knew what I meant.
Tapered helical extractors are a wast of time, as they only work if the screw is loose enough for other methods to work just fine. In all other cases you have to apply enough torque to wedge them into the fastener which jams it even more tightly than it already was. Then they break. They're a typical "hardware store" item, like carbon steel drill bits, which hardly andy tradesman would ever consider using, let alone buying
Gottenhimfella Have you ever used Easy Outs ?They have an anti clockwise thread & work well. If you're a bit rough with them and don't drill an accurate hole, then they're not going to be any good.Not everyone can weld(If you can).Maybe drill a hole smaller than the diameter of the bolt ,into a piece of steel ,clamp it on and weld that .His welding looked a bit shoot from the hip...There endeth the lesson!.....
If you have access to a lathe or various steel tubing, you could use a slice as a centering collar e.g. 6.5 mm o.d for a m8 thread, to fit inside the hole to the start of the thread, then a drill which matches the i.d/ bore, put it in the hole and drill it blind, then extract. ;) Could also use a bit of heat/ gas on aluminium, dependant on which part of the engine you're on, as it will conduct and expand alot quicker than steel.
these extractions were pretty straight foreword.. the toughest extractions I've run across were removing broken exhaust manifold studs below the turbo on 3406 cats.. on those,you had to drill a hole all the way through the stud & then use oxegen/acel to heat the stud & blow the stud out with the oxygen only.. wasn't easy..
+terry wheatley after drilling all the way through you didn't use an easy out? Or you could have drilled the screw out totally and then re-threaded to next size. NO, you had to blow the the threads F..ing out with an O/A torch?? WTF !!! What Did You Do Then????
Bob Duvall after drilling through the stud, all the way, I would use the torch & CAREFULLY cut a side of the stud. once the side was cut, hit the oxygen dead center of the stud & the stud would literally blow out of the hole.. an old school mech showed me this trick, it took a little practice, but it works! since your working on a head, take your time & have a good torch. ever break a easy out inside a exhaust stud? that can make a bad/long day. exhaust studs have to be a exact size, oversizing won't work.
Ragnar W. Eliansson a 3406 cat is a very expensive eng & you would run the risk of damaging the head by oversizing the exhaust stud. replacing a broken stud is a not an expensive job, mostly gaskets & labor. but if you did manage to oversize it, then you would have to drill the manifold to accept the larger stud.. I would never drill into a head for any reason, might be a mistake you would regret... good-luck!
The lot of you dumbasses', the drill bit is turning the RIGHT way.!! one: It' cutting steel and drilling the hole. Two: a drill bit going the wrong way will not drill, especially not in steel. Three, watch the feels on cars or wagons in the movies, they all appear to be going the wrong way, even though the vehicle is moving forward.
That doesn't work if the screw/bolt is long/deep and requires a bit more torque than an arthritic Andy Dick could muster...you'll just end up stripping off the "slot" ridges you made.
I watch this every morning to start my day and get me fired up.
🤣🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
How could you not
Take care not to get over stimulated
lol what
Disregard the negative comments or the "thumbs down". Make your own video before criticizing someone. Excellent job for those of us who may run into this issue. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for posting. I like how you showed these different ways of tackling this issue, very thorough and detailed. Great job!
that music is soo chill. made me think about my life and shit
hello darkness my old friend
348frank348 what is it do u know
i wish i knew
348frank348 ... lol u stupid lmao🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@skybyrd How's he stupid? Life is also about finding yourself, he is lost.
Thank you! Method 1 helped me remove a broken power steering bolt from the engine block. So relieved to not visit a mechanic over that. Took about 5-7 minutes of tapping the screwdriver, till I finally reached it with needle nose pliers and then fingers. Much appreciate your video!
Hey, that's the same music I use, when I torture people in my basement. :-)
😂😂
WHAT
I lol'd so hard! Me too!! But the crawlspace!!
oh yeah
Ml
You saved my life. Pulley bolt on my washing machine snapped and I don’t know how much it would have cost to fix without this video. Thanks to you, I got the snapped screw bolt out and it cost me £4 to fix my washing machine. Thanks!
Which method did you use?
I heated the bolt with a lighter and used a chisel and hammer to unscrew it one tap at a time. Slow and fidgety process, but it works!
I want to deeply thank you for this video. It saved me from a serious issue I had with my car. I broke a bolt on the coil pack and lucky me it had a small topper left to hammer with a wedge. it knocked it loose. Thanks.
LIAR
I'm not lending this guy any of my screwdrivers.
haha ! this comment is so underrated !
@@kennorway9690 except it isn't - unless it still only had a like or two 4 years ago
One of the best ways I've found to remove broken bolts is to use a tool of some sort and cut across the bolt surface to create a groove/slot for a standard screw-driver. A "dremel" (rotary tool) with the tiny cutting wheel works best for nearly every application. As long as the bolt isn't rusted in or bottomed out in the hole, the bolt will turn out. Using heat will make a big difference if it's a stubborn bolt.
worked!
This worked for me too! Thanks!
Great video as a young (still learning) mechanic myself i sometimes break and strip a lot of old rusty bolts all the time. these methods are life savers because knows if you dont know how to get a bolt out it will hold you back hours on a job. sometimes simple jobs which suck. thanks
Without this upload… I would’ve never heard this smooth instrumental. 5yrs late but thx
watching this video leaves me in dispair.
You could also cut a slot with a Dremel and remove it with a screwdriver
+john smith One of my favourites.
+john smith Good not only for broken screws but also (or specially) for those with stripped Phillips or Alan heads.
+john smith I was about to say that for method# 8
I love my dremel so much
+corisco tupi yep
I was so frustrated that couldn't think of how to do it other than the removal kit. Thank you for putting it all together.
Thank you for these complete recipes. They would have saved my day more than once if I only had known some of them. In my humble opinion, most of the dislikes (1635 versus 2328 at this moment) may come from people already experienced on this, so the video did not add up to their knowledge.
I love this guy. He took his time to make this video to HELP us. Also I was hypnotized by the music 😐
Thank you!
Come on. He didn't selflessly give the cure for cancer...He took the time to make this video as a way to generate revenue from views.
These are great tips/tools to keep in your mind when you are stuck in the field, the more ideas the better. Thank you for posting, Ciao, L
For those who like to criticize engineers should know that most engineers love what they are doing (as they studied so many years studying engineering) and have been experimenting in the field for years, "on their own".
Ppppppñppppp
already knew some of these, but few came as new knowledge. very simple and informative video. you shall have my upvote sir!
If you have part of the stud protruding out of the hole, you could partially grind a parallel flat on the stud and then use some pliers to spin it out of the hole. Or you could grind a slot in it and use a slotted screwdriver to extract it as well. But there is many way you could go about this. There really isn't a wrong or right way as well. As long as you are able to remove the broken stud and not damage the threads, you are golden.
5:59 Bolt extractors are not cheap and they break easily if you turn them like that. If the broken bolt is at all stiff then use the same two-handed wrench as at 8:29 to avoid side force.
Why the fuck am I watching this?
+technograd Kek
+ScrubLordAnjoo Because you're screwed up.
+ScrubLordAnjoo cause you're trying to get a nut off..nut off
+Geo Marin You both should be comedians.
I was listening to a song. But when i was scrolling down i saw this video and got me interested i love it, it is so satisfying. Thank you.
welding a nut is my favorite technique saved my ass plenty of times
Method 7: how to repair method 6 lol.
+Anthony Irwin nope, method 6 removes screw remains (he used screwdriver).
ivo kostić /
+ivo kostić but he will have destroyed the thread using method 6,so method 7 was the only option.
Actually there's nothing saying it had to be the same size bold. THerefore, a possible method 8 would have been to drill out the clean hole and thread for a larger bolt (no helicoil needed).
With method 6 you should retap the thread afterwards just to clean up any damage.
A variant of this that I've done is to make the hole big enough to get a junior hacksaw blade through it then cut at least 2 parallel slots through the chamber of the hole towards the edge of the thread. Then collapse in the screws shell. I use a tool from a lathe that looks like a mini flattish chisel, not a screwdriver.
You can also drill with about 3 mm drill and hammer a TORX bit into the hole. Works great on M6 bolts and other smaller ones. This method doesn't ruin the thread if you drill carefully.
And also usually once the cap of has been removed from a bolt that's stuck, the rest of the threaded part comes off really nicely.
Guys appreciate what he did or share what you know more than this, it's endless to learn but don't discurage
those of us that actually do this sort of thing call that a bolt
I know screw and bolt are the same things, but if you're saying that they're not screws but bolts, why are you saying screwdriver and not boltdriver?
+marchlander1 Because most bolts have a hex head, so they use a wrench or a socket.
+Jarrod P There are some countrys where Bolt and Screw ar different things, e.g. Germany, google "Bolzen" which is "Bolt" and the "Schraube" which is "Screw", then you will see
+Jarrod P he's right, this is a bolt - I've wasted time looking for a method to remove a screw
+Jarrod P Dear Mr. P. Why would such an experienced and educated man, such as yourself, even be searching for this type of video?
Maybe he should make a video about replacing a hammer handle.
Certainly the most bodged-up hammer handle ! Nails !!!!
Robert Sparling without looking again how many nailheads are there I can hint there's a few hundred LMAO!!!!
Best comment 👍🏻
dude hahaha
awesome comment 😂
I like the way the hammer head is retained. :) Great video, thanks.
Method 1 just worked for me tonight, it normally works the most often for me too. It's all about not getting too pissed off and focus.
Thanks for the helpful video. I just used technique #1 with a jewel screwdriver and a light hammer to extract a tiny broken screw from a $700 piece of lab equipment. Only took 5 minutes.
method 8 - hammer and nail
method 9 - hammer and screw
method 10 - hammer and knife
method 11 - hammer and fork
method 12 - hammer and spoon
etc... -__-
So basically, hammer.
Best investment for doing the work featured in the video is a set of Left Handed Drill bits, Carbide bits, small chisels, long tapered centre point punches. The reducer threads should have been cleaned with alcohol / acetone / ether before applying the thread locker,(likewise the parent threaded fixture.) "Staking" the insert (neatly) when in position is also a guarantee against failure. The person in the video means well, but does not appear to have a lot of experience / skill in performing that kind of task.
Thank you, excellent demonstration.
Your bits are sharper than mine, I see....
Thanks for the tutorial very very helpful I appreciate the time you put in the video👌
"7 ways to butcher a machine while trying to remove a sheared screw"
If using an "Easy Out" Extractor.
Get the center punch dead center for best results and then turn the extractor evenly with a Tap Wrench (from a tap and die set). Using a spanner/grips will put a bending force on the extractor, which being brittle hardened steel puts it at risk of snapping.
Take note this is not just being a pedant. In this demo the bolt is not seized, and extractor is not under stress. In real life you'll regret not using the correct tool pretty quickly.
Thanks! 1 worked for me and I didn't consider it at all!
Thank you for that music to get headaches with. Very helpful.
I'm about to blaze up to this music.
I wore my welding shield mask at 3:37 just in case.
One of the best clip on this topic and best video on CZcams i will recommend to viewer please watch it till end..all method all together. ..thanks and give it 5 star out of 5 star....
Awww, bless your heart! They started giving retards access to the internet! Good for you, Corky!
Now slap the table loudly and laugh as you click through CZcams videos with your sausage shaped hands!!
After messing with a broken bolt and getting tired, this music kept putting me to sleep lol. Good tips :)
that music made me fall asleep
+Cobus Knoetze And the music was the best art of the video.
+Cobus Knoetze I turned it off after a few seconds - why do so many YT videos have annoying music added. I hate it.
same thing lol
+Robert Seviour >>why do so many YT videos have annoying music added. I hate it.
Yeah, it made me give up fixing my screw. Im screwed
1, 2, & 3 are all the same!
4 & 5 work
6 is the starting point for 7 but a "Helicoil" or similar makes a better job.
+Jonathan Tatler 3 is not the same as 1 or 2. Very similar, sure.
+Antti Harri It's the same principal. just a slightly different tool.
method 4 very risk if your not good on welding
+cornelis email I agree, the guy who made this video must be an engineer because he thinks he knows what he's doing and has clearly never remove a frozen bolt
+mopar43v3r
With the pinpoint chisel he makes a groove and uses that to push the bolt backwards. With flathead chisel at least I use existing grooves to push it backwards. That's why I said it's no the same.
I use method 4 a lot on broken bolts on vehicles with old rusty parts. Use a MIG welder when feeding into the nut to broken bolt. Good video.
i sheared a spark plug and the screwdriver/hammer method saves my life bcuz my dad never found out. i love you!
Could've used a Dremel. Cut a notch in the bolt. Then use the flat head to unscrew it.
+iamram16 pedantic asshole.
+iamram16 everyone understands what a flat head screwdriver is... No need to nitpick
+Stev Rex yup. No need to get your panties in a twist when talking about tools.
+Stev Rex I think you're illustrating my point more than I am for you. Your panties are so twisted. It's like you're an angry girl. That's cool though I don't judge.
+iamram16 You are both correct and pedantic, we know what he means, that's good enough.
Music comes straight out of my worst nightmares.
POV you watch this cus ur dad yelled at you when fixing a car and you want to see this lol
Best video for removing broken screw. Now I‘m gonna go break some screws 😎
best way I have found is to drill a hole slightly smaller than a square drive bit then hammer square drive into hole and extract.
Thanks a lot, I might try that method!
Should be 5 ways. 1-3 are the same thing.
Cutting oil is a game changer for anyone needing to drill out bolts
Can I use soldering to solder a nut on a screw or does it have to be welding? Great hints btw.
Great video....except for the "music."
+Ratoncito G
Yeah, it's more suitable for lesbian porn or something.
+SE45CX lmao
It's very erotic.
porn music...
yea, few other ways left out but the one i really think he needs to watch is "How to replace a hammer handle"
I know this video was made in 2015, here I am in 2020 giving great review because one of the methods worked after great frustration!
Where is this great review you speak of?
P.S. Don't brag about leaving a "great review". It's as tacky as proudly shouting to your waitress (across the room) that you left her $4 in cash plus $5 coupons as a tip.
Got my back to the TV trying out my own method with a rubber band and pliers! Of course it's not budging I need a man of skills to do this. The screw has broken in my dining table's steel leg. MAN
Ignore the hataz- those are some handy tips - thanks!
+notoriouskelly I would have appreciated this information when I was a teenager. Fifty years later, I know all these methods and could suggest a couple more, but they are still handy for those who are just starting out.
+Robert Seviour +1:)
محتى
تاو
@Evi1M4chine One does not write on a computer. One types...and you wonder why no one has "written" back to your emails...
Fuckin' love getting welder's flash from a fuckin' video. Thanks for that!
That song made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside
Thanks for a good review for us laymen, of how to remove broken off bolts.
Always lots of professional critics on CZcams.
Technically professionals get paid and critiquing is one of the main or most important elements of CZcams. Hence there "always lots of...critics on CZcams"
*Note: If you liked this video then you also are critiquing...
In the first three methods... if the screw (actually a bolt!) were that loose that it could be tapped out with a hammer, screwdriver, or chisel... how did it break off in the first place? In my experience, a broken screw or bolt occurs because the tolerance is so tight that the screw or bolt will not turn without extreme force...
how would you remove it .i need an idea.my patio door screw broke when i forced it to screw it in .one went in with no problem the other broke help
This is laboratory condition,but in real it's different and much harder
+joonas meriläinen In our workshop workers do something like reverse sharpening of regular drill bit then drill that nut in "left" direction, if that doesnt help, overdrill and larger bore spindle, or welding ... but we use more then this simple 7 anyway....
When i thinking to remove cuted bolt i searched u tube and this 4 th method is used. Thank u very much
great learning for me and also share it my work helping staff in maintenance ..
at hot surface 90 to 95 ·C any special type of method or treack
I usually just smear faeces on the broken bit to try and disguise it so no one notices.
left hand drill bits work alot better.
+Will Johnson been doing that for years. sometimes we get lucky. also helicoils better than going oversize bolts
+jim sanker Yeah. Helicoil the way to go. I've had to do many, many reel clamp bolt holes on the Penn International "T" (tube frame) series as they used chromed brass bolts. The salt would corrode aluminum and the bolts wring(sp?) off. 1/4 x 20 Helicoil and good as new (never to corrode again!).
yes it does
Good Video! Covers all the bases, from Shade Tree Mechanic to Professional Mechanics. Nicely done!
Why not apply the green liquid before cutting the head of the reducer? Is that a glue or anti-seize compound?
Loctite. When it dries it will seize the thread, making sure the bolt won't turn/vibrate loose.
and loctite provides a good seal against corrosion
+Jacques Poirier indeed. Good point.
Tibor Végh while that's true, it's also an eponym. Since Loctite is the company that developed the formula, and at one time only made the one product, it's name is used generically, and anyone with any experience in engineering will know what I meant. Anything else is all symantics.
I know what you mean, like when all insulated drink containers are called a thermos, no matter who made them. I did however intend my comment to be read be people with engineering experience. After all, it's a video where a mechanic or engineer is showing tips and tricks. I believe the audience, in large, knew what I meant.
Should be titled "five ways to remove a broken bolt" because the first three were the same
PassTheChong 9
good video, I might be using one of these techniques. I have a bike that the frame slider broke off the motor mount.
Sausage fingers doing the demonstration has the shakiest hands! Thank God he owns a tripod. Thanks for the video!
Tapered helical extractors are a wast of time, as they only work if the screw is loose enough for other methods to work just fine.
In all other cases you have to apply enough torque to wedge them into the fastener which jams it even more tightly than it already was. Then they break.
They're a typical "hardware store" item, like carbon steel drill bits, which hardly andy tradesman would ever consider using, let alone buying
Gottenhimfella Have you ever used Easy Outs ?They have an anti clockwise thread & work well. If you're a bit rough with them and don't drill an accurate hole, then they're not going to be any good.Not everyone can weld(If you can).Maybe drill a hole smaller than the diameter of the bolt ,into a piece of steel ,clamp it on and weld that .His welding looked a bit shoot from the hip...There endeth the lesson!.....
Love when them easy outs break....anyone gots an easy out easy out?
mit dem Hammer,wurde bestimmt noch Jesus ans Kreuz genagelt. :))))
what is the album or name of this music. I love it. I keep watching this video again and again, just for the music. :)
Yeah ! this was a mother of all the methods together. Thanks! :)
The hole drilled for the "EEzy-out was way too big.
Only worked because thread was so clean. As did most of the 'methods'.
It's a bolt. Not a screw.
Thanks for making this informative vid. It is great! And I liked the music.
feel lke im playing minecraft with this music:) Video helped me repair Maytag washer Thank you
So many wrongs in one video.!!
Where can I buy that wonderful soundtrack? LOL
Summer time. Maz
kool music who is it by?
it had been 7 years,and i still watching it just to hear it music 😂😂
I don't know why I am watching this.... 😐😐😐
Maybe for the happy ending..
Maybe because you need to actually remove a bolt
do a video on a m8x1.25, broken 1/16 of an inch up in an aluminum head of a 18 year old vehicle , which requires a 90 degree drill. PLEASE
If you have access to a lathe or various steel tubing, you could use a slice as a centering collar e.g. 6.5 mm o.d for a m8 thread, to fit inside the hole to the start of the thread, then a drill which matches the i.d/ bore, put it in the hole and drill it blind, then extract. ;) Could also use a bit of heat/ gas on aluminium, dependant on which part of the engine you're on, as it will conduct and expand alot quicker than steel.
see above comments about welding a nut,i do this in aluminium marine engine and works great
Thanks for the video! Hammer and screwdriver worked for me the best. :D
good job!
Soothing music man!! Title??
First three methods are actually same method
these extractions were pretty straight foreword.. the toughest extractions I've run across were removing broken exhaust manifold studs below the turbo on 3406 cats.. on those,you had to drill a hole all the way through the stud & then use oxegen/acel to heat the stud & blow the stud out with the oxygen only.. wasn't easy..
had the exact same problem not to long ago
+terry wheatley after drilling all the way through you didn't use an easy out? Or you could have drilled the screw out totally and then re-threaded to next size. NO, you had to blow the the threads F..ing out with an O/A torch?? WTF !!!
What Did You Do Then????
Bob Duvall
after drilling through the stud, all the way, I would use the torch & CAREFULLY cut a side of the stud. once the side was cut, hit the oxygen dead center of the stud & the stud would literally blow out of the hole.. an old school mech showed me this trick, it took a little practice, but it works! since your working on a head, take your time & have a good torch. ever break a easy out inside a exhaust stud? that can make a bad/long day. exhaust studs have to be a exact size, oversizing won't work.
+terry wheatley Why do you say that oversizing won't work?
Ragnar W. Eliansson
a 3406 cat is a very expensive eng & you would run the risk of damaging the head by oversizing the exhaust stud. replacing a broken stud is a not an expensive job, mostly gaskets & labor. but if you did manage to oversize it, then you would have to drill the manifold to accept the larger stud.. I would never drill into a head for any reason, might be a mistake you would regret... good-luck!
Hi would this also work on a small screw ?
Where can I buy a pointer? That's also useful in reducing the length of the chain
He forgot the left turning drillbit!
so the left turning drill bit would be the seventh method since chisel and screwdriver methods are the same just different sizes
nice English there bro
I've even had success sharpening a right-helix twist drill the "wrong" way and spinning it backwards.
Gottenhimfella thats actually a good idea, think ill try that
The lot of you dumbasses', the drill bit is turning the RIGHT way.!! one: It' cutting steel and drilling the hole. Two: a drill bit going the wrong way will not drill, especially not in steel. Three, watch the feels on cars or wagons in the movies, they all appear to be going the wrong way, even though the vehicle is moving forward.
Wow, just cut a straight slot into the broken part still in the wall or whatever and use a screwdriver. Simple!
That doesn't work if the screw/bolt is long/deep and requires a bit more torque than an arthritic Andy Dick could muster...you'll just end up stripping off the "slot" ridges you made.
Thank you very much, I did not think of something like method one. And it works ! I’m very happy and thank you very much for this sharing
Thanks for taking the time to show this.
A screwdriver..is not a chisel..