I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! the oci for all vehicles was 4,000 miles or 6 months ! ive replaced oil that still looked like honey ! oil is cheap ! engines and labor are not !
I have a feeling 6 mo/4,000 miles isn't really giving us the full picture. It would be interesting to know how many idle hours accumulated during that time. I'm thinking well above what the average passenger vehicle accumulates.
Engine builders have known all along that turbocharging and direct injection lead to shortened engine life. Changing the oil and filter with high quality products helps component longevity, but asking these small displacement engines to perform like their long- gone larger displacement predecessors
Hence why Ford's new workhorse 7.3L gas (2020+) is a port injected, naturally asperated push rod motor. Built for maximum durability & reliability....Not to mentioned ease of maintenance.
OK, I’ll bit, so a turbo charged engine can’t make it to 18K miles (with 3 oil changes), seriously. Most engines can make it to 80K miles with zero oil changes as long as you top off the oil to make sure it does not get low. Even turbocharged engines. I’m not sure what to say about comments like this.
@@user-jy8ew2xc9g I agree, most automotive turbocharged engines are good for at least 200K miles if maintained properly. Oil cleanliness is even more critical for turbocharged engines. The no.1 killer for turbos is dirty oil. In Europe, constantly failing turbos seemed to become a thing when these 15-25K service intervals became the norm. No.2 killer for turbos is heat soak from the turbine/exhaust side when the engine is shutdown after a hard run - the heat soaks into the oil in the bearing races, cooks the oil and carbonises it meaning there's a load of abrasive particles in the bearing race when the turbo starts spinning on the next start up. Always idle a turbocharged engine for 2-3mins before shutting down as the oil flow carries that extreme heat away. In operators manuals for industrial engines they always say to do this.
SMH, shame. When my wife got a new vehicle at retirement a few years back, their "service dept." complained to my wife that me changing the oil every 3,000 miles was not necessary. She told them "He does that so our engines can hit 200,000 to 300,000+ miles before they get replaced". Their manufacturer oil change interval = engines last until just out of warranty .
If even. Working at a Ford dealership in Germany we have multiple recalls on Transit Custom vehicles on which the timing belt degrades due to 50.000 k / 2 year oil change intervalls and ultimately clogs the oil pickup.
I do every 5000 and I drive heavy in the city but haven’t had any issues I would not go over 5000 though and I see people go 12k 20k and I cringe and think how’s that motor still going it’s gotta be slugged up
Today's synthetic oils work fine with an OEM filter for about 7k miles as long as you're not desert racing. Clean oil helps engines last but changing oil these days at 3k miles is just pouring money down the drain. I will be changing my oil soon. It has 6k miles on it. I checked it last week. It still looks good but the golden color is becoming brown. That's about the right time.
@@wsbill14224 sorry hoffman, butt colour does NOT indicate time 4 a change... a friend changes his every 12k & uses m1& a fram filter... his oil was BLACK AS COAL, where as my AMSOIL signature series in lexus nx200t went 3 yrs, 2 mos & 2 days, going 23,671 miles & testing showed it only lost a little viscosity... nothing else butt AMSOIL in my cars.
I've always changed my oil every 3K (back in the day before synthetic came around) and every 5K with synthetic. I have two vehicles; a DD and "family hauler" for trips/family reunions. Both are set at the 5K oil change interval. The family hauler usually times out before the mileage is up, even with my running it on a week and off a week. It gets changed every 6 months whether it meets the 5K mark or not. Both of my vehicles are NA. Such as been said before "Oil is cheap, new engines aren't"
A couple weeks back, I tore down a 4.6 2v pulled out of my Crown Vic 2 years ago. This engine religiously got oil changes every 3 months using Motorcraft 5w20 or 5w30 (depending on how hot outside) synthetic along with Motorcraft FL820s oil filters. This engine was pulled at 245,000 miles due to oil consumption. Well, the oil consumption turned out due to bad valve stem seals. The inside of the engine was far cleaner than the engine in this video. There was not one piston in the engine that looked anything like the one in this video. In fact, all of the bearings had almost no wear whatsoever on them, the crank journals looked freshly polished. Checked the journals, all are in exceptional shape with no discernable wear according to my micrometer. In fact, the crank looks as if it has just been machined - it's that fresh. It is hard to believe this engine in your video has only 18k miles on it with what you see. This is why oil changes are so important. Oil will oxidize in the crankcase just from father time doing his thing.
Same with my 165,000 mile 4.6 2V. It's absolutely spotless on the inside and it looks more like an engine with 6500 miles on it. It was that clean. I had the cam covers off to replace the gaskets, thats the only reason I had to open it up.
Absolutely 💯. The one thing that bothers me is the lack of education at the point of sale and by manufacturers. It isn't taught how crucial maintenance is with these boosted engines. The general public who are not auto enthusiasts got away for so long without doing proper maintenance, it isn't even on their radar. Instead we have manufacturers making maintenance free claims like on transmissions. Then they don't want to warranty failures. The blame goes full circle. We appreciate people like you who are trying to educate everyone. 🙂🐶
Thanks for the reminder and reinforcement... Your videos on oil changes have got me to switch my '97 F-150 over to a time based oil change interval since it is much like the car in this video, very short trips and extremely rare highway time.
I tore down a 5.3 LM7 that I bought from a scrap yard a few years back. I could tell they definitely didn't keep up on the maintenance oil, or coolant. It actually had 2 seized up main bearings from where the oil had caked up though the years and clogged the oil pickup screen. Coolant passages where showing signs of beginning to corrode. I've always done my best to keep my vehicles and my families vehicles well maintained. Take good car of your vehicles and they'll last much longer, and have less problems. In the long run, the extra money for proper maintenance will save you big time on otherwise costly repairs from not taking care of it. I think some people don't understand that theory. Great video Rich, thank you and God bless you.
A quality turbo engine would go 80K more miles with no oil changes (just top offs to make sure the oil level is adequate). This clown is making excuses for a poorly designed/built Ford engine.
I have a raptor. I use Amsoil full synthetic which claims to be one year or 25,000 miles. I have two vehicles, one is a designated work vehicle and I’m lucky to put 5000 miles a year on my raptor. But no matter what I change The oil every six months with this Amsoil. Even if I only have 2000 miles on the oil. It’s getting changed! Great advice in your video. My truck will sit for a week without being started. The longer it sits, the more wear and tear on the engine.
NOT w/AMSOIL, ur wrong... read my response 2 william hoffman above... ur experience w/AMSOIL should dictate usage, NOT the old fashioned way wen they used real oil out of the ground... also hope ur using an AMSOIL filter, it helps... AMSOIL is NOT " full " synthetic, it is 100 % SYNTHETIC, basically the only 1 that is... YES, there is a BIG difference... research it a little further... 4 ur info, i use & sell AMSOIL products...
@@brucek.hoffman5868 twin turbos run hot, fuel 100% gets into the oil, let’s just call that a contaminant in the oil. this also causes wear and tear. these are also reasons I use Amsoil. But I am strongly considering switching to red line after seeing the results of it on this channel it appears to be better than Amsoil. and that red line will get changed just the same.… I don’t care what is 100% full synthetic. Everything breaks down... so no, I’m not wrong. You’re literally telling me I’m wrong for changing my oil 🤦
Not according to my multi year oil analysis of Amsoil. The TBN of Amsoil will allow the base in the oil to last 25k, but soot and particle contamination effects it like every other oil. Without bypass filtration Amsoil should be treated like every other oil on the market. Did a 12k test with amsoil and had 3 times iron wear vs using Kirkland and changing at 3k.
I'm the maintenance guy at my company, we were running conventional oil with the cheap STP filters. I changed the oil change guidelines to full synthetic oil and Wix XP filters a few weeks ago because I pulled the valve cover on on one of our Nissan frontier pickup trucks and found it full of sludge. The oil was changed at 5k miles every time like clockwork and was changed 15 times the following year.
And project Farm is just a man he has no formal training he is not a technician although I do like his work I don't go watch his stuff because then it taints my work that I put out here because I also do oil testing and long-term use I don't need project for him to tell me because I'm more trained than he is I am more certified than he is and I actually do testing a little bit different than he does so I don't need anybody to tell me to go watch somebody that has not even got my skill set but just knows how to do some good testing which I respect he is not me and he does not have the ability to do what I do
Appreciate the wisdom! I'm a 21 year old who just bought a 22 Edge last month and I definitely have needed this advice since this is my first ecoboost turbo car. I definitely was more lax with oil changes on my old Honda.
I have a mechanic friend that has a 2000 chevy cavalier 2.2L with over 500k miles of highway driving. He used full synthetic oil and changed it every 5k miles. As far as I know it's still running. Last I talked with him it was at about 540,000. Made a believer out of me! He used 5w30 mobile 1 majority of the time. He has recently switched to shell Rotella t6 5w40 because oil pressure was dropping low on hot days.
I had a 1997 Sunfire with the 2.2. I bought it from a teacher who drove an hour highway commute everyday. I got an Encyclopedia Britannica sized stack of maintenance records with it. It had 360,000 miles on it when I bought it and I put 20K on it before I bought a new car. The oil was changed religiously every 3000 miles with synthetic blend and it still had the original clutch in it. I always preach to people about maintenance, but it seems like Noone wants to take the time or effort to do it.
Where I work, a few years ago they decided to start using a oil filter called green filters and I think it was using recycled oil also. The real issue was 20,000 mile OCI for all the service trucks. Mind you we are the largest telecommunications company in the USA. Us techs laughed when that initiative came out. They replaced untold amounts of engines. Needless to say we are back at 5k OCI’s. I change my personal oil every 3k or twice a year. Don’t get me started on my boat OCI’s. I change it about every 10 hours of use. It’s a V8. Love your videos FBM! Keeps us in-line….
Did they ever factor in idle time on these trucks? 20,000 miles on a truck that idles 75% or more of it's life is a huge difference vs a truck that idles 10% of it's time.
@@frandanco6289 hours are usually stored in the ecm on most modern vehicles. I’ve seen plenty of aftermarket add-on hour meters. A lot of fleet vehicles have more in-depth tracking available that may be aftermarket. Just depends on who’s most interested. As far as figuring “idle” hours, maybe I should’ve phrased it as engine or running hours. My point was that if you have 2 trucks each with 10,000 miles on them & 1 added 250 hours & the other added 750 hours. I’d bet that higher hour truck is doing a lot of idling.
Oh dear, you are talking about my driving patterns. I don't put 5K/year combined on my 2 vehicles now days. I do try to get them up to temp when I drive them but this time of year that might not happen. I change the oil around once a year or 3K miles. The car does get some highway miles but only once a month now days. The pickup hasn't been out of town since I got it almost 3 years ago. Thanks for the videos.
Most filters are pretty decent. The problem is the turbo raises the cylinder temps and that scorches the oil. The add pak goodies in the oil break down rapidly at high temps. If you aren't using oil formulated to eke out a few more miles under those conditions and changing it often you'll end up with this mess pretty quickly. Eventually you'll coke up the rings anyway despite using decent oil and changing it often. You're running a turbo at higher than reasonable HP per CC. It's the nature of the beast. Ford is extracting a lot of power per cube on that little four banger using a turbo with an intercooler. When you increase performance above a fairly arbitrary threshold by pressurizing an engine you'll begin to experience shorter engine component life from pressure and thermal issues. Using an intercooler or water injection will help somewhat but it will not exempt you from basic high school chemistry and physics... Boyles gas laws. Higher pressure means higher temperature. Add combustion to that and you can coke up the combustion & oil rings and actually melt internals if you're not careful. GM turbocharged the short lived 1962-63 Jetfire F85 Oldsmobile. GM used alcohol/water injection to drop cylinder temps but still had problems with melted pistons and other turbo associated issues because they were running fairly close to the bleeding edge. SAAB, Volvo, VW and even GM used superchargers and turbochargers on automobiles for several decades and had slightly better results but they weren't pushing performance as close the bleeding edge as Ford is with this engine and GM was on the Jetfire.
@@TheOcculus Then if you have a direct injected engine the valves are going to be problematic too. They will need to be cleaned every once in a while since fuel no longer cleans them.
If you get any decent brand-name oil filter you'll be fine. The problem is interval not the type of oil or filter. You can get the cheapest conventional oil on sale and your engine will be as happy as the highest quality synthetic oil if your interval is good.
I think the mistake people make is buying the expensive redline oils and think they are good for an absurd amount of miles between oil changes. You are better off with Pennzoil full synthetic and changing it more often. Don’t be ridiculous. Oil is oil no matter how much it costs it breaks down and gets contaminated sooner than you think.
DFI and turbo... lots of heat, lots of carbon buildup on intake valves (carbon acts as an insulator and repository of heat), so even more heat can't be disapated and it becomes a vicious circle. Another strategy to slow carbon buildup (piston tops) is to use PEA based fuel treatments (Amoco, STP complete fuel system cleaner, etc). Try to use full synthetic oils (less likely to lead to deposits and sludge)... more expensive up front, but much cheaper than an engine.
Or buy Toyota which has no carbon problems because they waited before releasing their direct injected engines and added multi-port with them to help keep the valves clean. Ford is starting to follow Toyotas lead by adding it back to their engines. Toyota is not perfect, but they damn sure do not rush to release new technology until they test it long enough. Toyota tests a full year longer than Ford. Ford rarely stops Assembly lines over issues discovered, but Toyota encourages workers stop the line if they see an issue. If you want real quality and a better chance at a reliable vehicle buy Toyota or Honda. Ford sucks and I am so glad I traded my 2015 crap Fusion in on a Toyota. The Fusion was in the shop many times before 20k miles. At 22k miles it had a cracked cylinder head in 3 places and the mechanic said it was a flaw from the forge and should never have made it to assembly that is how pissy poor Ford quality is.
@@JasPlun Thats a shame about your fusion, the last generation with the aston martin grills look great and i think the interiors are nice. For an everyday sedan i dont think you can beat a 4cyl camry or corolla. I have never seen struts on a toyota/lexus es sedan go bad and they wear tires pretty evenly. They are also easy/possible to align, even older rusty ones in NE. I am talking 2015ish and prior before the most recent redesign,. If i recall right they changed the rear suspension design so i think they will be prone to the adjustment seizing up. Honda is not bad but more issues than toyota, oil dilution, more complexity with turbos, rear struts go bad, front camber on most is not adjustable.
@@connor3288 We actually liked the cars looks that is the main reason we baught it that and the price I got it for was good. The car handled fine and had a nice ride. The Fusion also had the best damn air conditioner we have ever had it would get cold super fast and freeze you out in a hurry. It is still better than our new Camry in that regard. I did not like the popping sound made by the wind if you wanted to drive with the windows down either. That car was a strictly windows closed vehicle imo. They say they have transmission problems at about 80k miles, but I do not believe that to be caused by the design and more on people not servicing the transmission properly. It had a good transmission. It was not very reliable engine wise at least the one we had. I tried to diagnose and fix some of the problems myself, but in the end the Fusion is a car that is cheap for a reason they do not hold up long term. I like to buy and keep a car for at least 150k to 200k miles and I almost expect to get that pretty much trouble free for the prices they are selling cars and trucks today. In the end the 2020 Camry SE we have now blows it away in build quality, but its a Toyota:P
Low mileage usually means short trips. Constant shot trips/run time is classed as SEVERE DUTY by any engine manufacturer automotive, commerical, marine or industrial, doesn't matter. Most manufacturers call for oil change intervals to be cut in half if useage is classed as severe.
@@GPz84 That's an exception but not the norm. Hence why I said 'usually'. Generally though, if it's a case of not being used much but when it is used it gets a good long run, that's generally ok. On old engines without proper pcv systems you still have to keep an eye on condensation building up in the oil. Personally I've always recommended an oil and filter change once a year to all my customers - oil and filters are the cheapest insurance you can get for any engine.
This one right up my alley. My 18 escape w/ the 1.5 only made it for a change once in the past year. I drive a service van so it has extremely low miles but hopefully my busy/laziness didn’t do too much damage. I know better and this vid was a nice kick in the ass. Thnx.
Thank you for the video. Will definitely keep an eye out for this. I do wonder though if Ford realized exactly how dirty this engine could get over its lifetime?
@@elgransr Two issues: fuel atomization in DI is usually dirtier with soot and oil gets blacker with soot particles as well. So as this guy right above me said, our lives with DI does suck more unnecessarily but we gain a little performance as well. On some engines and colder locations, fuel does go from the Direct Injection injectors onto cold cylinder walls and into oil so this is a problem as well. My oil oil always has more fine carbon and fuel due to the DI. New oils have been formulated to help but shorter OCI is mandatory as well. DI and Turbo have both resulted in phenomenally more expensive vehicle running costs to millions of drivers throughout the world. I would rather use regular unleaded and run my oil to 6-7k miles and get 33 mpg than get 35 mpg and pay so much more for super unleaded and expensive oil often. My DI Honda is a waste and a rip-off.
@@jamesmedina2062 The objective is less fuel getting passed out the exhaust valve during valve overlap. Direct injection accomplishes that. The EGR and lack of people running catch cans probably puts more garbage into the oil than a cold engine, rich mixture, and a heavy foot.
@@reubenmorris487 valve overlap was never presented as a primary motivation for DI. The efficiency and power improvements were by increasing manageable compression along with high tech knock control because the in-cylinder evaporation reduces temps and the fuel can be metered somewhat leaner. Higher compression increases power of course. Remember that the port injection is aimed right at the intake valve so it is not that different but in many cases the fuel atomization is better with port injection and the fuel particles are smaller thereby reducing large particle formation(soot). I will not disagree with your statement because I have not known or studied valve timing (and overlap) in depth. I have read more on pollution and soot formation
I change my oil once a year on my 2018 F150 2.7 ecoboost. I'm retired and only drive it 4000 miles per year. When I drive it I make sure to run it for a half hour to get the engine and transmission up to full operating temp. Many of my trips are around 75 miles. I have a beater car for running errands around town.
@FordBossMe 1) If someone has been doing a 12 month oil change interval, what's the best way to "recover" (to the extent possible) from that and clean up the crap that might have accumulated in the engine? 2) Last time I had an oil change done (2012 Audi 3.0-liter, 24-valve V-6 with direct injection, supercharging, intercooling), the technician sucked the oil out via the fill hole using a vacuum pump. I've been told that this isn't optimal because it doesn't allow particles in the bottom of the oil pan to get flushed out. Thoughts? 3) Not implying that you're not correct on the OCI info, but why doesn't Ford warn people about the 1x/year scenario in the owner's manual? Or do they? Thanks, Rich! ALWAYS appreciate your enormous wisdom and willingness to share it.
I've covered this before with the recommendations from the manufacturer it would be redundant for me to continue to repeat this over and over again The manufacturer expects the vehicles to be driven and in a perfect situation not severe-duty you could go extended oil change intervals but we don't live in the perfect situation we live in severe Duty times and we treat our vehicles very poorly and the manufacturer doesn't cover that part
There are many ways of managing oil in thoughtful ways especially in light of both saving time and reducing mess. You cannot generalize with your question. The comparison needs more details. If you switched to doing oil change yourself I would recommend Fumoto Japanese drain valve and clear hoses to drain oil to make your life easier. If your intervals are neat, oil of high quality, and engine is wearing slowly, then residual oil is not a big deal to begin with but since oil is fairly cheap, when I drain I dump 1/10 a liter of oil to push out old oil through drain but still it will not mean no old oil remains because bearings and the pump should keep hold of small remnants of oil anyways. So, MARGINS. Watch for leaks, check oil level weekly, and change oil within good margins. On Audi this should increase life of timing components and tensioners.
My dad was this guy lol. Even with the recommendations and tips from his technician son, he only did an oil change once a year on his 05’ f150. his engine started setting timing codes one day and eventually detonated. Multiple camshaft caps were broken in 2 and the engine was locked up. Lucky for him I got him my employee discount on an engine and parts but it still cost him a pretty penny and a good month without his truck waiting on parts. Lesson learned the hard way lol.
I do an oil change in my stock RSX-S once a year, sometimes go longer (I get it done before 10,000 miles at least). I wind it out to 8,500 RPM near daily (Hondata reflashed ECU). almost 20 year old car with 170,000 miles zero engine codes or problems. Never even did a valve adjustment. Lesson learned = F150 motor is junk
Depends a lot on the car, older cars were ok with standard oil changes. Some engine are trash and need frequent oil changes like the MB270 , it's a nightmare. 6qts of oil in a 1.6 ( not the 2.0) and gets diluted like crazy cause of cat pre heating and GDI.
My wife reached out to me as a wife; we are good now. I hope the same is going for you. I just told her I’m yanking that Jiffy Lube BS out of the car and replacing with the good stuff; Valvoline oil based one your recommendation. I’m in charge of maintenance on both my vehicles; and thanks too you, I’m Blessed to have your guidance here on CZcams. You have helped me TREMENDOUSLY! AS ALWAYS, STAY BLESSED!
I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! the oci was 4,000 miles or 6 months ! I changed out oil that still looked like honey ! Total cost $18 including full inspection ! oil and filters are cheap insurance , engines and labor are not !!
5k a year is fine for a non turbo non gdi engine. But in a turbo gdi ecoboost that idles a lot I wouldn't take that ford syn blend a year. I'd take it to 3k to be safe if I wanted to own it for a long time.
I change my oil twice a year based on temperature. 5W-30 in the hot summer and 0W-30 in the freezing winter. Lighter oil in the winter helps the engine start easily, oil reaches parts of the engine faster, less strain on the oil pump and starter and you get heating faster too!
Thanks for this video, Boss. My grandmother has an older Ford and somehow some tech convinced her and my mother to only change the oil once a year. I had to use said vehicle recently and can hear noises I shouldn't hear. I am sending this to them. I even suggested they do it twice a year (every six months). Thanks again for this video!
I would Put 1 quart of Marvel Mystery oil and run it 1,000 Miles. Make sure to install a New Oil Filter, You wouldn't need to do a full Oil change (unless you have the extra $$), Just make sure not to Over Fill the oil..... 4.6 engines Oil filter hold around 3/4 of a Quart of Oil so that should be enough drained by doing that, Or just crack the drain plug and let some come out. After 1,000 Miles that Mystery Oil should clean it up pretty good and you'll *Have* to change the *Oil*
@@Robs_Got_A_Gun& GeritoS. Yea that is a good idea with the MARVEL Mystery Oil. 👌 Make sure you can get on the highway for a good while so that the oils good and hot, allowing that MMO to really get in to every nook and cranny of the valve train, timing chain assembly, etc... I'd run a half quart or more in it after that all the time, especially if they are running a conventional oil in it for her. A full synthetic and a little MMO all the time would really help her engine and your peace of mind too! Good Luck !!!( Rob; Is that your sister Janie? that has a Gun too! A little attempt at Aerosmith humor there😂)
@@tinamcgarrah7794 Yeah i use Marvel Mystery oil in everything i Buy or maybe once a Year, i noticed if i use it in my Gas on a Fuel injected vehicle you can definitely smell the Fumes from the Mystery oil when you first start it because they run really Rich on a Cold start
@@tinamcgarrah7794 and lol alot of people Mention Aerosmith, i like the song, I'm 27 so i do like Old School Rock, But these younger Kids don't have a Clue what Aerosmith is. My Gamertag on Xbox is "Robs Got A Gun" so i decided to make all of my Usernames the same thing
@@Robs_Got_A_Gun That's cool, Aerosmith was a very cool band. 😎 America's Stones kind of... Jagger and Richards...Tyler and Perry! Pretty much b4 your time, but with technology, they'll be there about forever to discover to those wishing too. It's better to have a gun,and not need it! Than to need it, and not have one! Yea MARVEL has that distinctive Wintergreen smell, but much better than Sulphur (rotten eggs), Cars in the 80's were bad for that, b4 they got the emission systems totally figured out...Only drawback to MMO is it will build up a little on the plugs after continued use. But hey I like cleaning and filing the plugs every once in a long while, it's just old school fun, and you'll see quick if a cylinder is going away on you!!! Well Aim True, and Squeeeeeeze the Trigger! JETHRO
I change oil 6 months max. Even with a few hundred miles. I can see and smell the difference. I always warm up to normal and rev to 2000 or 3000 on short runs. My engines are very clean. I put gas preservative in, and lucas gas clean and they start instantly even at teen temps. I may be silly, but I change filters every time. As a youngin my oil burners would freeze on and crush fram filters. Change often and hand tighten filters 3/4 turn apx. It has always been a successful 300,000 mile plus on my autos.
People don't listen to us. They want to complain about the failure when it all boils down to oil is cheaper than a motor. Love your content. Keep it up!
Seeing the piston, it also looks like the oil control ring groove is very small, tbh to small. VAG 2.0TFSI had the same thing using oil before 100k km.
100% agree. I own a Ford Flex 3.5L with 112,000 and an EB 2.0L Fusion with 66,000 and I change the oil every 3 months. These vehicles see sometimes less than 3,000 between OCIs and I've had absolutely no issues with them.
This is good advice as a rule of thumb. However, the best thing to do is to have a reputable shop like blackstone laboratories analyze your cars oil after a few changes. They can then identify wjat is best for your specific vehicle, climate, and driving conditions. They saved me from blowing up a motor once because a problem was caught early. Since then I can't say enough about their service.
I do 5k in about 3 months. Fresh full synthetic with a premium filter every time without fail. Wife's ride barely does 5k in a year, still gets changed twice a year, always right before summer, then again after summer. We're in Texas, so even cooler weather is unpredictable.
Good video Rich, I live by that. My oil in all my vehicles gets changed every 3000 to 3500 miles. Even my Dodge Cummings gets changed twice a year and I typically only put 2000 miles a year on it outside of our vacations in which it changed when I get back.
I also agree with your what you are saying I have a 2000 tundra I have change the oil every 3000 miles and I use full synthetic 5-30 I have 245,000 on it and it does not even use a quarter of a quart between oil changes I know they say you can go longer with synthetic oil but I just change it every 3000 anyway oils cheap
Of the year and a half I’ve owned my 1.5 fusion I’ve had to add coolant once I think. A quarter inch to the reservoir after 20,000 miles. It has 58000 miles on it though.
Maybe I'm delusional but I thought if you engine/cooling system was in good shape you didn't have to add coolant. I've easily put over 100k on vehicles without the coolant dropping.
Boss Man, I still can't understand for the life of me why some are pushing this "20,000 mile" OCI. That is just bonkers to me. For some people who only make short trips, that could end up being several years! I understand there are some really expensive "high performance" oils out there so maybe they are trying to justify their high cost, but it's really being penny wise and pound foolish. For people who say they "don't have the money" I say "hogwash". You can purchase a 5 qt jug of Chevron synthetic blend oil for about $17 at Walmart and get a Motorcraft filter for another $4. So that's $21 for a very low budget oil change. If you don't have any money, you can certainly afford $21 to at least do that if nothing else. Sure beats not doing the oil change at all.
My father was mechanic for a bit of time in the 50's. He taught to change. Oil every 1500 miles. I 've seen inside of engines look factory new after 10 yrs.
I only drive 3,000 miles a year, if that, but I live in a rural area surrounded by 55mph roads, few traffic lights. While I trade vehicles every 3 years, I finally get it, and started changing oil at the Ford dealer at least twice a year. One mechanic came out and thanked me, and said I was saving major damage in the near future. He also told me not to trust the tire pressure sensors, but rather manually check the tires monthly with a good gage, and to check under the hood frequently for rodent nests.
But Scotty says one year 🤣🤣🤣🤣. I’m very paranoid about my oil changes. You’re the only person I let touch my vehicles & you know how clean my engine is. I do my oil every 3k miles or 5 months
In fairness Scotty does say 3000-5000 miles, and a year maximum but it’s not best. He says pretty much the same, oil is cheap, engines are expensive. But he also hates eco boost engines too ;).
I keep seeing comments about various newer vehicles being very hard on oil. I wonder what the dealer and Ford think about your comments on changing oil at 5000 miles or sooner? What is the recommended interval from the factory for oil changes? interesting video, think about how many engines are going with extended oil change intervals.
my ford pass app originally told me 10,000 miles on a 2019 2.0 ecoboost lol, it was going off the way your drive. but then it seems to have gotten updated to to be more regular.
@@enacku 10k miles is max, probably highway usages. Changing my oil in the car once a year and about 12-18.000km. Sludge building up is probably from short trips, have seen that in the Fiat/Abarth 1.4T engines ( Europe version ).
I don't know why I would be concerned with what my dealer what Ford says about my oil change intervals? I'm not concerned with what somebody else thinks if what I'm stating is fact
And if you pull out your Ford service manual you'll see that most people try to operate under normal circumstances which and none of us operate under and then you have to switch over to the severe-duty circumstance which is closer to my recommendations except mine are just a little bit better So if you have any further questions about me being the professional that I am in the recommendations that I make please ask I'll answer them because I'm going to shoot you straight I don't care what anybody else thinks about what I say because I know what freaking works
As a dealer tech for over 30 years I've seen quite a few sludged up engines, but I feel that a lot of what forms the deposits has to do with driving habits, type of oil, and temperature achieved each time the car is ran. My own father's car is a good example, he was religious about changing the oil in his then new '70 Chevy. He ran strictly Pennzoil 10w30 from day one and it got changed every 2k. The problem was the car never went more than a mile or two at a time. He worked a mile away, he shopped a mile away, and so on. It only got fully warmed up maybe once or twice a year. By 30k the engine was a mess, it looked like someone poured brown wax into that thing and filled it up. I pulled the engine because of multiple lifter failure at 29k in 1990. It took three days in the tank to clean the block. The cylinders were scored, the oil rings stuck, and the valve guides were wiped out. I rebuilt the engine, and from then on it ran only on Mobil 1 oil. I sold the car four years go with 38k on it just past the 50 year mark and a look under the valve covers showed the engine was as clean as it was the day I put it back together. Fast Forward to now, I have two cars and four diesel trucks. All are 1997 and 2003 model Fords. None has more than 10k on the clock. My Crown Vic came from a customer at the last dealer I worked at, she would bring it in every 2 months for an oil change, using only her own Mobil 1 5w30 oil and a factory filter. Most times I saw the car it had only 5 to 10 miles on it since the last oil change. When she hung up her license in her 90's I was able to buy the car off her. It was basically a 10 year old car with 1,300 orignal miles. For what she wanted for the car I couldn't pass it up even though I really didn't need it. The worst part about it was that she was hard on the bumper corners, mostly scraping them up in and out of her garage but for $1000, I bought it anyway. I drive the car maybe twice a year, it lives on Mobil 1 oil. I change the oil every 5k, and the car only gets used on longer rides. so when it comes out of the garage its for at least a 100 mile run or more. Otherwise I run my other, same year, same color, same model car that has 4k on it. I just changed the oil in both the other day, (Gave all my vehicles an oil change). The oil that came out was every bit as clean as when it went in. The car with 1,700k had oil that looked absolutely perfect, it hadn't been changed in 4 years but it had gone only 210 miles since then. I cut open several of the filters and they look just as spotless. My daily driver, had 4k on its oil, and it was just as clean. The diesel trucks, which hold much more oil, were running solely synthetic oil as well, with one having had Mobil 1, and the other three having Chevron Delo full synthetic. The Mobil Delvac Synthetic oil came out with barely any color after 4k, and the Chevron oil came out far more dirty after far less miles, (2,300, 3k, and 1,050 k) The truck with the Mobil 1 for what ever reason always seemed to be quieter overall and was a bit easier to start on cold days All of them had last been changed in 2017 but they only get used sparingly, and even more sparingly now that diesel is over $4/gal most of the time. (I also can't justify running a 1 ton truck to do grocery shopping either). Back in 2015, I bought two barrels of the Chevron oil, one in 5w40 and the other in 15w40 from a supplier who was closing up, so I'll be using it for some years to come, maybe the rest of my life but I feel the Mobil Delvac is a better oil. At over $100 per oil change and less than a few hundred miles driven a year, there's no way I'm changing the oil in those trucks every year, it would be nuts. I put each of them back away in the garage with a fresh oil change and full battery charge after a quick test drive last week, I know that at least a few of them will likely never be used again for the rest of the year. The same with the lower mileage car. I highly doubt any of them will see any engine damage in my lifetime, and I don't foresee needing to do another oil change in them for another five to eight years. I do on occasion pull them out of the garage for a quick run around the block and to warm them up fully before a fresh wash and wax every fall, and to sweep out the garage and get ready for winter. One truck has more aggressive snow capable tires on it, so its the only one that may on occasion come out in the cold months, but in past years, we've had no snow so it sat. With the cost of new trucks, and my now being retired on only Soc. Sec. they have to last me the rest of my life.
I think people hear short trips and idling and don’t believe it’s a big deal. I think they would understand better if they understood that water condensation is a huge product of short tripping and that WATER OXIDIZES OIL FAST. Oxidized oil doesn’t do a good job!
I know that all places at least back in the day when they put that sticker on your windshield was always 3 to 5k kilometers (the amount I'm not 100 percent sure of) OR every 3 months. I've no idea if places still preach this, since I've been doing my own oil for the last... 15 years? Yea, that's some gross stuff!
Honestly this is why I drive a 1987 F-150 with a 4.9 L I6 and a manual transmission going into a 8.8 inch rear end only 87,000 original miles on it and I paid 700 bucks for it 5 years ago I really wonder how long this thing's going to go I wouldn't be surprised if my kid can drive it in the future
Looks like a lot of short trips, never getting the engine up to temp to burn off the condensation, sad with only 18,000 miles. Looks like it had 150k hard miles on it.
@@FordBossMe no I wasn’t questioning the factory oil was just wandering if they went to jiffy lube like place. I use factory oil 5 months or 3000 miles on my 250. So just curious
I do a decent amount of highway driving but not like most people. I like to push my car up to triple digit speeds with high RPM so I usually change my oil every 3K-4K miles.
My 2020 Ecoboost Mustang with the high performance package I bought in March of 21’ is approaching 7k miles and it’s 3rd oil change. I installed a JLT oil separator as soon as I got the car.
This is probably why electric vehicles are becoming more popular. No fluids to inspect or replace because people are too ignorant, lazy, or busy to bother until the vehicle has an issue. By then it's going to cost a lot. I don't understand why this happens. Oil changes are so inexpensive. Even if you go to Quick Lube shop. Shoot, you can go to Walmart or Costco, do your shopping while they change your oil...
Mario DIY - Wait until those EV people have to change out the Battery/ies on their car....In the thousands of dollars..... :) And add up all the Extra Hours spent, waiting to get the Battery charged at charging stations... :)
I've always said oil is cheaper than an engine. Took my recently purchased Camry in and had it changed. They told me I could go 10k. I was at 4k. Told them to change it anyway. These long intervals just don't sit well with me.
Shop I go too know me by name I could do it myself but I live in an apartment and where I park is kinda gravel area so I can’t really do oil changes there. Sometimes I go to my friends garage but the shop knows I want just basic oil and I do 5000 oil intervals. Cars almost 20 years old still driving down the road why’ll most new cars I see on flat bed tow trucks
Yes even my first oil I was told I could push it out to 7k up to 10k but I did it at maybe 2k because to me it is the break in oil and break in was over although not completely. At 96k now and still no oil burning.
I do my Toyota every 5k maybe 7500 when I go on vacation and it's all highway but definitely 10k is too long if you plan to keep it for longer then 75-100k even now I have 4500k on my oil and it's feeling like it needs changed.
My '01 Chevy conversion van oil gets changed about annually. It gets stored indoors during the winter months and when I do change it, which will be this week, it's still pretty decent from an optics standpoint. Hash marks are still very visible on the dipstick and doesn't burn any with no lifter tick. I'm in upstate NY and my trips included WVA, KY , and FL last year before putting her down for the season. A good oil and filter with driving habits that allow the oil to do its job will allow you to do those o/c intervals
I run three old Fords, 1979-86 drive around 1,000 miles per vehicle per year, and replace the oil on them once a year, every year with premium AmsOil. Probably nearly a decade at this point. I have yet to have a problem with any of my motors and oil issues, and my 79 Continental doesn't even burn oil. The used oil flows well even at cold temperature off the stick, and looks brand new in the dump oil pan flowing hot out on oil changes. This isn't arguing with you, or giving bad advice to others. Just a simple statement of fact. My old Cleaveland and Windsors seem to be doing fine on the once a year oil change.
I get what you're saying but by you saying what you're saying here that actually can retract from my message to other people so when you say I'm not trying to do this you actually are doing it and I know you don't mean anything by it
The engine in this video is a small, turbo'd gasoline engine. That's what he is mainly addressing. These ecoboosts run hard and hot, they are a lot rougher on oil and components. Totally different animal. If what you're doing works for your vehicles then cool, but for the context of this video it couldn't be less relevant.
@@krod2162 I believe Mr. Mitchum made a good point, that these motors aren't bad designs, but that they are designs that need much higher maintenance. My old Cleaveland and Windsor V-8's are naturally aspirated, and either port injected or carb'ed, which can run very dirty with less to almost no problems compared to modern direct injection. Keeping any motor clean from carbon is good, but in DI it is crucial. Turbos are, indeed, hard on oil. All that heat helps to break down the oil much faster compared to cool running naturally aspirated. So, yes, again, it isn't a problem inherent with the Ford EcoBoost, but rather a consideration of all and any turbocharger. When properly maintained the EcoBoost seems to be a reliable engine that holds up well, showing they aren't a junk motor that is poorly designed. But a touchy motor that needs more care than a big old NA low compression cast iron workhorse.
I'm going to have to disagree. My father's TDI got 10,000 miles and a synthetic oil change when they came due, about twice a year it got changed. Thing has never had an engine issue, emissions systems not withstanding as the DPF went at 200k miles and was covered under warranty and the EGR valve is now toast. The high salt diet is what really killed that thing. Maybe it makes a difference at 300k miles but there isn't a passenger vehicle in existence that can survive that long where I live before the frame is gone and about all the parts have been replaced. No idea why the mechanics and engineers disagree so much over it oil change intervals, the new oil is light-years better than the stuff from 30 years ago.
There is no disagreeing There is me educating people and those who don't give a crap what they screw up and keeping doing it out of ignorance My profession speaks for itself and your ideology doesn't
@@chicanobluesaz4191 lol I'm not tearing down a running 350k km diesel for some dude on the internet. Maybe I'll send you a video of it getting an emissions delete.
Yes, its called cooperate greed, they downsized the engines that much, that they are all junk. A normal and proper build engine should not have a problem with an 12 month and 8k interval.
If I change my oil every six months using Mobile 1 synthetic, is that enough? I drive 7-10 miles to work one way, mostly city but in light traffic and with some roads where the speed limit is 45 miles per hour. I am able to get the oil to operating temp about half way in my commute usually. That is literally the only thing I use my car for. I put on about 2k mikes per year.
When I change my 6.7 powerstroke oil 3-4K it will not be black with soot more like dark honey color I add friction reducer and have a draft tube even the old 7.3 with no emissions had more soot in the oil not sure why New subscriber Thanks
Thanks for a great educational video I have a 2017 ford mustang with an eco boost turbo engine. I bought it brand new and according to Ford Australia their recommended oci is 15000kms or once a year. I have done 91000kms and recently its smelling a bit fumy.When i told them about it they said it was a bad pcv valve.They changed it and still very fumy. To be honest my engine has probably already been compromised I wish i had seen your video a few years ago. Anyway from now on i will do my own oil changes at 7000 - 8000kms or every 5 mths for the rest of my motoring life,regardless of what make or model i am driving. Cheers from downunder!
There is no time like the present, just shorten it up some Use a decent engine flush a couple times and shorten the oil change length up and you should be good
exactly. does not matter if you are running the best, most expensive oil, change your oil at least every 6 months or 3000mile's - witchever comes first. your engine will thank you for it. Those driving to work in the city or town then back home, then change your oil before the 6 months - 3000k mile's. The problem with that kind of driving is the oil wont get to operating temperture, and wont burn off the condensation when the oil is cold. Never rev your car when cold, cool your car down before shutoff i.e idle for a min. after a long drive idle for a min to two mins, this is even more important on turbocharged or supercharged engine's. That's if your want the best longevity out of your engine.
We are a three car family with only two drivers. We do once a year oil changes but they are in the 3000 MI range or even less. Only syn oil and quality filters. Most time the dirty oil still looks quite clean and the oil change system still says the oil is fine.
I get good engine life on my Fords. I used to change oil every 5K with regular oil. I got 382K on my Sport Trac Explorer. But with synthetic I was told I can go to 10K before changing. And a lot of people work from home (now). Maybe that is making things much worse.
My 84yr old mother drives a 2012 Jeep Patriot 2.4L that has less than 25k miles on it. She only drives short trips but less than 3k miles a year total. I use good full synthetic (Mobile1) and premium filters. I change the oil in it once a year and it seems fine. It sets in a heated garage most of the time. I want to maintain it properly but I see no reason to be changing her oil 2 times a year with less than 1500 miles on it. It's not a turbo charged engine and the oil stays pretty clean between OCI's. I'm more concerned with the 10yr old tires that it still has on it but she hardly even gets above 45 miles an hour on her short trips across town.
Brother this is not about what your personal opinion is on the vehicle that you're very familiar with this is about what I'm telling the public to keep their vehicles on the road without spending lots of money so please remember my message does not equal what your message personally trumps
Switch to Amsoil Full synthetic You can thank me later This advice is really for direct injection and those with a turbo And anyone with a suck ass Eco Boost piece of garbage.
Thanks again for the video and info. See can’t believe some folks still neglect oil changes. I thought I saw a White Castle in the background at the beginning of your video. Making me hungry for a sack of sliders! 😋
I dont understand why people make payments on a $30,000+ vehicle when they dont leave the house. I worked on a car the other day that had around 5,000 miles on an oil change, but took 3 years to get that far
I just bought a new 2021 F150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine and appreciate your expertise and advice on maintaining it. It is my first Ecoboost engine. It will primarily be my daily drivers, but I do tow a travel trailer for get aways every 2 to 3 months. I’d also appreciate your thoughts on schedules for other fluid maintenance, such as transmission, differential, and coolant changes. Also, with the cam phaser/timing belt issues, would It be a good idea to also install an oil catch can. I did see your video on how to avoid the cold start rattles. Thanks again for making your videos. You provide a great service to Ford customers.
No amount of oil changes will stop the timing chain stretch and cam phasers knocking that’s just bad designs or the turbos cracking the housings and leaking coolant internally that I have never seen that on a aftermarket turbo even on 1500+hp motors. They make great power but it’s a trade off on longevity unfortunately
Would using TopTier gas from stations like Phillips, Shell and Connoco and avoiding federally standard minimum cleaning agent gas at the Casey's, Kwik Star, HyVee, etc also make a difference in the amount of carbon build up on the pistons, valves and other areas? I don't recall anyone on CZcams talking about TopTier gas vs standard gas. First I ever heard was reading my 2023 Toyota Camry guide.
You set yourself a hard task convincing people to change their oil 2x per year, but keep it up. I think maintenance can be fun, dorky as it sounds. Changed my fluid in front and rear diff, power steering, brake lines, coolant, oil, trans etc, and it felt really good. I had to research for some but was still able to do them all on my first try.
Hard task?? Humans are unintelligent and uninformed idiots you are saying? What is hard to understand about 3-5k miles OCI?? Seems pretty simple and cheap to me. When I worked at dealerships full fluids would run much more money but simple oil changes are about as cheap as half a tank a gas.
@@jamesmedina2062 take it easy, man. I don't appreciate being paraphrased as a misanthrope. I'm sure from working at a dealership you understand people don't change their oil as often as they should.
@@KF1No not really. People that neglect their vehicles do not want to be seen near a dealership and believe dealerships to be full of evil which they kind of are. Oil changes are like religion. Its something that is usually unseen and you either observe your faith or you don't. But having worked there I know that despite adoring money, dealerships possess the talent of brand/model experts. When you want the truth, go there. As for oil, people are stupid. Call me a misanthrope. I accept it.
2015 F150 2.7 EcoBoost 128K and change the oil with Mobil One every 5K since new. Oil stays amber color through about half of the life cycle. I run Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase every 30K miles and perform an Engine DeCarbon every 15K. Runs beautifully ... plan on going to atleast 250K miles.
Chevy doesn't have these kinds of concerns. With the low mileage use of my newer vehicles they get 1 oil change a year. I had an old Chevrolet truck with a 350 motor that I used just to haul trash and wood. I can't remember the last time it had an oil change😅 but it still runs strong with over 350,000 miles on it
Thanks Ford Boss me! I just reached 3,000 miles after my engine replacement. I will follow your recommendations. I will switch to full Synthetic Motorcraft 10w30. To help with sludge build up. Do you recommend the Full Synthetic instead of The Motorcraft blend. You don't say which oil they are using. Thanks, Again for everything you show and teach us about the Eco-Boost engines. Shawn.
THANK YOU! FINALLY SOMEONE THAT UNDERSTANDS... 3000 miles tops. I agree with his exceptions too. My chevy is changed every 3000 miles religiously and is now past 198,000 miles.
you know, I drive 5k miles in town with 2009 pontiac vibe and it burns oil with the 2.4 engine. I add a quart every 1800 miles. looks like I can do one year because I end up replacing 50% of the oil every 5k miles/1 year. People say an oil burning engine like mine is bad. it looks like with short trips, it's a good thing. LOL
What needs to be mentioned is the use of quality petrol, with additional detergents to keep the bores and rings clean. Short journeys where the engine doesn't get up to temp are lethal for any engine. If my Mercedes CLK 3.5 is stood for more than a week I make sure that I take it for a drive that is at least 30 minutes, or 30 miles, and fully up to temp, and with any condensation boiled off. I'm shocked that 6,000 mile oil changes killed that engine, modern oils are supposed to be much better at staying on the metal surfaces for protection on cold starts, and detergents for cleaning deposits off.
Great advice.... Corolla Hybrid SE AWD 4 month intervals / Calgary, AB Mobil 1 OW-16 + Toyota Filter January, February, March, April May, June, July, August Sept, Oct, November, December 5,000 kilometers = 3,125 miles ✅ 6,000 kilometers = 3,750 miles ✅ 7,000 kilometers = 4,375 miles ✅ 8,000 kilometers = 5,000 miles ✅
I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! the oci for all vehicles was 4,000 miles or 6 months ! ive replaced oil that still looked like honey ! oil is cheap ! engines and labor are not !
For me, not being stranded on the side of the road is, priceless.
Oil changes are cheap, especially when you do it at home...I'll never understand people who don't do preventative maintenance.
a little TLC goes along way.
@@JT-lq4yd i always been an oil change fanatic sometimes just being bored but just the feeling i did something good for my. truck !
I have a feeling 6 mo/4,000 miles isn't really giving us the full picture. It would be interesting to know how many idle hours accumulated during that time. I'm thinking well above what the average passenger vehicle accumulates.
Engine builders have known all along that turbocharging and direct injection lead to shortened engine life. Changing the oil and filter with high quality products helps component longevity, but asking these small displacement engines to perform like their long- gone larger displacement predecessors
Hence why Ford's new workhorse 7.3L gas (2020+) is a port injected, naturally asperated push rod motor. Built for maximum durability & reliability....Not to mentioned ease of maintenance.
I’ll bet turbocharged Toyota engines don’t self destruct after 18K miles. Regardless of what Ford apologists tells you.
OK, I’ll bit, so a turbo charged engine can’t make it to 18K miles (with 3 oil changes), seriously. Most engines can make it to 80K miles with zero oil changes as long as you top off the oil to make sure it does not get low. Even turbocharged engines. I’m not sure what to say about comments like this.
Amen, brother! This clueless “mechanic” just wants clicks.
@@user-jy8ew2xc9g I agree, most automotive turbocharged engines are good for at least 200K miles if maintained properly.
Oil cleanliness is even more critical for turbocharged engines.
The no.1 killer for turbos is dirty oil.
In Europe, constantly failing turbos seemed to become a thing when these 15-25K service intervals became the norm.
No.2 killer for turbos is heat soak from the turbine/exhaust side when the engine is shutdown after a hard run - the heat soaks into the oil in the bearing races, cooks the oil and carbonises it meaning there's a load of abrasive particles in the bearing race when the turbo starts spinning on the next start up.
Always idle a turbocharged engine for 2-3mins before shutting down as the oil flow carries that extreme heat away. In operators manuals for industrial engines they always say to do this.
SMH, shame. When my wife got a new vehicle at retirement a few years back, their "service dept." complained to my wife that me changing the oil every 3,000 miles was not necessary. She told them "He does that so our engines can hit 200,000 to 300,000+ miles before they get replaced". Their manufacturer oil change interval = engines last until just out of warranty .
If even. Working at a Ford dealership in Germany we have multiple recalls on Transit Custom vehicles on which the timing belt degrades due to 50.000 k / 2 year oil change intervalls and ultimately clogs the oil pickup.
I do every 5000 and I drive heavy in the city but haven’t had any issues I would not go over 5000 though and I see people go 12k 20k and I cringe and think how’s that motor still going it’s gotta be slugged up
Today's synthetic oils work fine with an OEM filter for about 7k miles as long as you're not desert racing. Clean oil helps engines last but changing oil these days at 3k miles is just pouring money down the drain. I will be changing my oil soon. It has 6k miles on it. I checked it last week. It still looks good but the golden color is becoming brown. That's about the right time.
@@wsbill14224 agree, 5k miles or 6 months, whatever comes first!
@@wsbill14224 sorry hoffman, butt colour does NOT indicate time 4 a change... a friend changes his every 12k & uses m1& a fram filter... his oil was BLACK AS COAL, where as my AMSOIL signature series in lexus nx200t went 3 yrs, 2 mos & 2 days, going 23,671 miles & testing showed it only lost a little viscosity... nothing else butt AMSOIL in my cars.
I've always changed my oil every 3K (back in the day before synthetic came around) and every 5K with synthetic. I have two vehicles; a DD and "family hauler" for trips/family reunions. Both are set at the 5K oil change interval. The family hauler usually times out before the mileage is up, even with my running it on a week and off a week. It gets changed every 6 months whether it meets the 5K mark or not. Both of my vehicles are NA.
Such as been said before "Oil is cheap, new engines aren't"
A couple weeks back, I tore down a 4.6 2v pulled out of my Crown Vic 2 years ago. This engine religiously got oil changes every 3 months using Motorcraft 5w20 or 5w30 (depending on how hot outside) synthetic along with Motorcraft FL820s oil filters. This engine was pulled at 245,000 miles due to oil consumption. Well, the oil consumption turned out due to bad valve stem seals. The inside of the engine was far cleaner than the engine in this video. There was not one piston in the engine that looked anything like the one in this video. In fact, all of the bearings had almost no wear whatsoever on them, the crank journals looked freshly polished. Checked the journals, all are in exceptional shape with no discernable wear according to my micrometer. In fact, the crank looks as if it has just been machined - it's that fresh. It is hard to believe this engine in your video has only 18k miles on it with what you see. This is why oil changes are so important. Oil will oxidize in the crankcase just from father time doing his thing.
Same with my 165,000 mile 4.6 2V. It's absolutely spotless on the inside and it looks more like an engine with 6500 miles on it. It was that clean. I had the cam covers off to replace the gaskets, thats the only reason I had to open it up.
That's not what Blackstone labs will tell you, they will tell you the age of the oil means nothing. Read my comment above.
Absolutely 💯. The one thing that bothers me is the lack of education at the point of sale and by manufacturers. It isn't taught how crucial maintenance is with these boosted engines. The general public who are not auto enthusiasts got away for so long without doing proper maintenance, it isn't even on their radar. Instead we have manufacturers making maintenance free claims like on transmissions. Then they don't want to warranty failures. The blame goes full circle. We appreciate people like you who are trying to educate everyone. 🙂🐶
in comes long life low saps oils and manufacturers recommending 20k mile changes so that the fleet service costs seem low.
@corey Babcock👍🏼 Hi Corey! 🙂
Thanks for the reminder and reinforcement... Your videos on oil changes have got me to switch my '97 F-150 over to a time based oil change interval since it is much like the car in this video, very short trips and extremely rare highway time.
I tore down a 5.3 LM7 that I bought from a scrap yard a few years back. I could tell they definitely didn't keep up on the maintenance oil, or coolant. It actually had 2 seized up main bearings from where the oil had caked up though the years and clogged the oil pickup screen. Coolant passages where showing signs of beginning to corrode. I've always done my best to keep my vehicles and my families vehicles well maintained. Take good car of your vehicles and they'll last much longer, and have less problems. In the long run, the extra money for proper maintenance will save you big time on otherwise costly repairs from not taking care of it. I think some people don't understand that theory. Great video Rich, thank you and God bless you.
Seen those with 400k+ so maintenance is a must
Ecoboost is a turbocharged engine. Turbos are rough on engine oil. Especially when you short trip them.
A quality turbo engine would go 80K more miles with no oil changes (just top offs to make sure the oil level is adequate). This clown is making excuses for a poorly designed/built Ford engine.
I have a raptor. I use Amsoil full synthetic which claims to be one year or 25,000 miles. I have two vehicles, one is a designated work vehicle and I’m lucky to put 5000 miles a year on my raptor. But no matter what I change The oil every six months with this Amsoil. Even if I only have 2000 miles on the oil. It’s getting changed! Great advice in your video. My truck will sit for a week without being started. The longer it sits, the more wear and tear on the engine.
NOT w/AMSOIL, ur wrong... read my response 2 william hoffman above... ur experience w/AMSOIL should dictate usage, NOT the old fashioned way wen they used real oil out of the ground... also hope ur using an AMSOIL filter, it helps... AMSOIL is NOT " full " synthetic, it is 100 % SYNTHETIC, basically the only 1 that is... YES, there is a BIG difference... research it a little further... 4 ur info, i use & sell AMSOIL products...
@@brucek.hoffman5868 twin turbos run hot, fuel 100% gets into the oil, let’s just call that a contaminant in the oil. this also causes wear and tear. these are also reasons I use Amsoil. But I am strongly considering switching to red line after seeing the results of it on this channel it appears to be better than Amsoil. and that red line will get changed just the same.… I don’t care what is 100% full synthetic. Everything breaks down... so no, I’m not wrong. You’re literally telling me I’m wrong for changing my oil 🤦
Just use Supertech
Not according to my multi year oil analysis of Amsoil. The TBN of Amsoil will allow the base in the oil to last 25k, but soot and particle contamination effects it like every other oil. Without bypass filtration Amsoil should be treated like every other oil on the market. Did a 12k test with amsoil and had 3 times iron wear vs using Kirkland and changing at 3k.
I'm the maintenance guy at my company, we were running conventional oil with the cheap STP filters. I changed the oil change guidelines to full synthetic oil and Wix XP filters a few weeks ago because I pulled the valve cover on on one of our Nissan frontier pickup trucks and found it full of sludge. The oil was changed at 5k miles every time like clockwork and was changed 15 times the following year.
ProjectFarm did an extended oil analysis test on 2 different vehicles. U can look it up. ProjectFarm, “Will Annual oil change damage your car”.
And project Farm is just a man he has no formal training he is not a technician although I do like his work I don't go watch his stuff because then it taints my work that I put out here because I also do oil testing and long-term use I don't need project for him to tell me because I'm more trained than he is I am more certified than he is and I actually do testing a little bit different than he does so I don't need anybody to tell me to go watch somebody that has not even got my skill set but just knows how to do some good testing which I respect he is not me and he does not have the ability to do what I do
Wow. Taking it hard ......
Appreciate the wisdom! I'm a 21 year old who just bought a 22 Edge last month and I definitely have needed this advice since this is my first ecoboost turbo car. I definitely was more lax with oil changes on my old Honda.
I have a mechanic friend that has a 2000 chevy cavalier 2.2L with over 500k miles of highway driving. He used full synthetic oil and changed it every 5k miles. As far as I know it's still running. Last I talked with him it was at about 540,000. Made a believer out of me! He used 5w30 mobile 1 majority of the time. He has recently switched to shell Rotella t6 5w40 because oil pressure was dropping low on hot days.
I had a 1997 Sunfire with the 2.2. I bought it from a teacher who drove an hour highway commute everyday. I got an Encyclopedia Britannica sized stack of maintenance records with it. It had 360,000 miles on it when I bought it and I put 20K on it before I bought a new car. The oil was changed religiously every 3000 miles with synthetic blend and it still had the original clutch in it. I always preach to people about maintenance, but it seems like Noone wants to take the time or effort to do it.
@@hewgull That's right if you maintain them they will last and give you less trouble 👍
Where I work, a few years ago they decided to start using a oil filter called green filters and I think it was using recycled oil also. The real issue was 20,000 mile OCI for all the service trucks. Mind you we are the largest telecommunications company in the USA. Us techs laughed when that initiative came out. They replaced untold amounts of engines. Needless to say we are back at 5k OCI’s. I change my personal oil every 3k or twice a year. Don’t get me started on my boat OCI’s. I change it about every 10 hours of use. It’s a V8. Love your videos FBM! Keeps us in-line….
Did they ever factor in idle time on these trucks? 20,000 miles on a truck that idles 75% or more of it's life is a huge difference vs a truck that idles 10% of it's time.
@@jeffs2809 How do you know how long those trucks idle in the first place???
@@frandanco6289 hours are usually stored in the ecm on most modern vehicles. I’ve seen plenty of aftermarket add-on hour meters. A lot of fleet vehicles have more in-depth tracking available that may be aftermarket. Just depends on who’s most interested.
As far as figuring “idle” hours, maybe I should’ve phrased it as engine or running hours. My point was that if you have 2 trucks each with 10,000 miles on them & 1 added 250 hours & the other added 750 hours. I’d bet that higher hour truck is doing a lot of idling.
Oh dear, you are talking about my driving patterns. I don't put 5K/year combined on my 2 vehicles now days. I do try to get them up to temp when I drive them but this time of year that might not happen. I change the oil around once a year or 3K miles. The car does get some highway miles but only once a month now days. The pickup hasn't been out of town since I got it almost 3 years ago. Thanks for the videos.
I 100% agree with your statement. I think what a lot of people do by mistake is buy good quality oil but skimp on the quality of the oil filter 🤷♂️
Most filters are pretty decent. The problem is the turbo raises the cylinder temps and that scorches the oil. The add pak goodies in the oil break down rapidly at high temps. If you aren't using oil formulated to eke out a few more miles under those conditions and changing it often you'll end up with this mess pretty quickly. Eventually you'll coke up the rings anyway despite using decent oil and changing it often. You're running a turbo at higher than reasonable HP per CC. It's the nature of the beast.
Ford is extracting a lot of power per cube on that little four banger using a turbo with an intercooler. When you increase performance above a fairly arbitrary threshold by pressurizing an engine you'll begin to experience shorter engine component life from pressure and thermal issues. Using an intercooler or water injection will help somewhat but it will not exempt you from basic high school chemistry and physics... Boyles gas laws. Higher pressure means higher temperature. Add combustion to that and you can coke up the combustion & oil rings and actually melt internals if you're not careful.
GM turbocharged the short lived 1962-63 Jetfire F85 Oldsmobile. GM used alcohol/water injection to drop cylinder temps but still had problems with melted pistons and other turbo associated issues because they were running fairly close to the bleeding edge.
SAAB, Volvo, VW and even GM used superchargers and turbochargers on automobiles for several decades and had slightly better results but they weren't pushing performance as close the bleeding edge as Ford is with this engine and GM was on the Jetfire.
Agreed 100%
@@TheOcculus Then if you have a direct injected engine the valves are going to be problematic too. They will need to be cleaned every once in a while since fuel no longer cleans them.
If you get any decent brand-name oil filter you'll be fine. The problem is interval not the type of oil or filter. You can get the cheapest conventional oil on sale and your engine will be as happy as the highest quality synthetic oil if your interval is good.
I think the mistake people make is buying the expensive redline oils and think they are good for an absurd amount of miles between oil changes. You are better off with Pennzoil full synthetic and changing it more often. Don’t be ridiculous. Oil is oil no matter how much it costs it breaks down and gets contaminated sooner than you think.
DFI and turbo... lots of heat, lots of carbon buildup on intake valves (carbon acts as an insulator and repository of heat), so even more heat can't be disapated and it becomes a vicious circle. Another strategy to slow carbon buildup (piston tops) is to use PEA based fuel treatments (Amoco, STP complete fuel system cleaner, etc). Try to use full synthetic oils (less likely to lead to deposits and sludge)... more expensive up front, but much cheaper than an engine.
This right here. Straight(non-port) fuel inj. on top of duty cycles and heat with improper oil changes, you're just begging for disaster.
Oh yes, use fuel additives becausethat will make the fuel clean the valves..... Seafoam it
Or buy Toyota which has no carbon problems because they waited before releasing their direct injected engines and added multi-port with them to help keep the valves clean. Ford is starting to follow Toyotas lead by adding it back to their engines. Toyota is not perfect, but they damn sure do not rush to release new technology until they test it long enough. Toyota tests a full year longer than Ford. Ford rarely stops Assembly lines over issues discovered, but Toyota encourages workers stop the line if they see an issue. If you want real quality and a better chance at a reliable vehicle buy Toyota or Honda. Ford sucks and I am so glad I traded my 2015 crap Fusion in on a Toyota. The Fusion was in the shop many times before 20k miles. At 22k miles it had a cracked cylinder head in 3 places and the mechanic said it was a flaw from the forge and should never have made it to assembly that is how pissy poor Ford quality is.
@@JasPlun Thats a shame about your fusion, the last generation with the aston martin grills look great and i think the interiors are nice. For an everyday sedan i dont think you can beat a 4cyl camry or corolla. I have never seen struts on a toyota/lexus es sedan go bad and they wear tires pretty evenly. They are also easy/possible to align, even older rusty ones in NE. I am talking 2015ish and prior before the most recent redesign,. If i recall right they changed the rear suspension design so i think they will be prone to the adjustment seizing up. Honda is not bad but more issues than toyota, oil dilution, more complexity with turbos, rear struts go bad, front camber on most is not adjustable.
@@connor3288 We actually liked the cars looks that is the main reason we baught it that and the price I got it for was good. The car handled fine and had a nice ride. The Fusion also had the best damn air conditioner we have ever had it would get cold super fast and freeze you out in a hurry. It is still better than our new Camry in that regard. I did not like the popping sound made by the wind if you wanted to drive with the windows down either. That car was a strictly windows closed vehicle imo. They say they have transmission problems at about 80k miles, but I do not believe that to be caused by the design and more on people not servicing the transmission properly. It had a good transmission. It was not very reliable engine wise at least the one we had. I tried to diagnose and fix some of the problems myself, but in the end the Fusion is a car that is cheap for a reason they do not hold up long term. I like to buy and keep a car for at least 150k to 200k miles and I almost expect to get that pretty much trouble free for the prices they are selling cars and trucks today. In the end the 2020 Camry SE we have now blows it away in build quality, but its a Toyota:P
Low mileage usually means short trips.
Constant shot trips/run time is classed as SEVERE DUTY by any engine manufacturer automotive, commerical, marine or industrial, doesn't matter. Most manufacturers call for oil change intervals to be cut in half if useage is classed as severe.
What it it's low milage because it sits in the driveway and used twice a week?
@@GPz84 That's an exception but not the norm. Hence why I said 'usually'.
Generally though, if it's a case of not being used much but when it is used it gets a good long run, that's generally ok. On old engines without proper pcv systems you still have to keep an eye on condensation building up in the oil.
Personally I've always recommended an oil and filter change once a year to all my customers - oil and filters are the cheapest insurance you can get for any engine.
This one right up my alley. My 18 escape w/ the 1.5 only made it for a change once in the past year. I drive a service van so it has extremely low miles but hopefully my busy/laziness didn’t do too much damage. I know better and this vid was a nice kick in the ass. Thnx.
Thank you for the video. Will definitely keep an eye out for this. I do wonder though if Ford realized exactly how dirty this engine could get over its lifetime?
I think a lot of people don’t realize the effect a turbo has on oil degradation. There’s zero margin for error.
Does direct injection also have oil degradation?
@@elgransr Two issues: fuel atomization in DI is usually dirtier with soot and oil gets blacker with soot particles as well. So as this guy right above me said, our lives with DI does suck more unnecessarily but we gain a little performance as well. On some engines and colder locations, fuel does go from the Direct Injection injectors onto cold cylinder walls and into oil so this is a problem as well. My oil oil always has more fine carbon and fuel due to the DI. New oils have been formulated to help but shorter OCI is mandatory as well. DI and Turbo have both resulted in phenomenally more expensive vehicle running costs to millions of drivers throughout the world. I would rather use regular unleaded and run my oil to 6-7k miles and get 33 mpg than get 35 mpg and pay so much more for super unleaded and expensive oil often. My DI Honda is a waste and a rip-off.
@@jamesmedina2062 The objective is less fuel getting passed out the exhaust valve during valve overlap. Direct injection accomplishes that. The EGR and lack of people running catch cans probably puts more garbage into the oil than a cold engine, rich mixture, and a heavy foot.
@@reubenmorris487 valve overlap was never presented as a primary motivation for DI. The efficiency and power improvements were by increasing manageable compression along with high tech knock control because the in-cylinder evaporation reduces temps and the fuel can be metered somewhat leaner. Higher compression increases power of course. Remember that the port injection is aimed right at the intake valve so it is not that different but in many cases the fuel atomization is better with port injection and the fuel particles are smaller thereby reducing large particle formation(soot). I will not disagree with your statement because I have not known or studied valve timing (and overlap) in depth. I have read more on pollution and soot formation
@@reubenmorris487 My car (turbo DI) does not use EGR.
I change my oil once a year on my 2018 F150 2.7 ecoboost. I'm retired and only drive it 4000 miles per year. When I drive it I make sure to run it for a half hour to get the engine and transmission up to full operating temp. Many of my trips are around 75 miles. I have a beater car for running errands around town.
@FordBossMe 1) If someone has been doing a 12 month oil change interval, what's the best way to "recover" (to the extent possible) from that and clean up the crap that might have accumulated in the engine?
2) Last time I had an oil change done (2012 Audi 3.0-liter, 24-valve V-6 with direct injection, supercharging, intercooling), the technician sucked the oil out via the fill hole using a vacuum pump. I've been told that this isn't optimal because it doesn't allow particles in the bottom of the oil pan to get flushed out. Thoughts?
3) Not implying that you're not correct on the OCI info, but why doesn't Ford warn people about the 1x/year scenario in the owner's manual? Or do they?
Thanks, Rich! ALWAYS appreciate your enormous wisdom and willingness to share it.
I've covered this before with the recommendations from the manufacturer it would be redundant for me to continue to repeat this over and over again
The manufacturer expects the vehicles to be driven and in a perfect situation not severe-duty you could go extended oil change intervals but we don't live in the perfect situation we live in severe Duty times and we treat our vehicles very poorly and the manufacturer doesn't cover that part
@@FordBossMe Can you comment on vacuuming vs. draining oil? Thanks.
@@billy2bob63 I would do both of the methods at the same time so you wouldn’t make a big mess on the floor and get all the oil out.
Vacuuming is fine as long as the engine was just ran prior. Boat engines frequently don't even have another way to drain them.
There are many ways of managing oil in thoughtful ways especially in light of both saving time and reducing mess. You cannot generalize with your question. The comparison needs more details. If you switched to doing oil change yourself I would recommend Fumoto Japanese drain valve and clear hoses to drain oil to make your life easier. If your intervals are neat, oil of high quality, and engine is wearing slowly, then residual oil is not a big deal to begin with but since oil is fairly cheap, when I drain I dump 1/10 a liter of oil to push out old oil through drain but still it will not mean no old oil remains because bearings and the pump should keep hold of small remnants of oil anyways. So, MARGINS. Watch for leaks, check oil level weekly, and change oil within good margins. On Audi this should increase life of timing components and tensioners.
My dad was this guy lol. Even with the recommendations and tips from his technician son, he only did an oil change once a year on his 05’ f150. his engine started setting timing codes one day and eventually detonated. Multiple camshaft caps were broken in 2 and the engine was locked up. Lucky for him I got him my employee discount on an engine and parts but it still cost him a pretty penny and a good month without his truck waiting on parts. Lesson learned the hard way lol.
I do an oil change in my stock RSX-S once a year, sometimes go longer (I get it done before 10,000 miles at least). I wind it out to 8,500 RPM near daily (Hondata reflashed ECU). almost 20 year old car with 170,000 miles zero engine codes or problems. Never even did a valve adjustment. Lesson learned = F150 motor is junk
WoW, the sludge, carbon and grime are amazing at that low mileage
Depends a lot on the car, older cars were ok with standard oil changes.
Some engine are trash and need frequent oil changes like the MB270 , it's a nightmare.
6qts of oil in a 1.6 ( not the 2.0) and gets diluted like crazy cause of cat pre heating and GDI.
My wife reached out to me as a wife; we are good now. I hope the same is going for you. I just told her I’m yanking that Jiffy Lube BS out of the car and replacing with the good stuff; Valvoline oil based one your recommendation. I’m in charge of maintenance on both my vehicles; and thanks too you, I’m Blessed to have your guidance here on CZcams. You have helped me TREMENDOUSLY! AS ALWAYS, STAY BLESSED!
Tyvm be blessed
I was a fleet mechanic for INDOT for 32 years ! the oci was 4,000 miles or 6 months ! I changed out oil that still looked like honey ! Total cost $18 including full inspection ! oil and filters are cheap insurance , engines and labor are not !!
5k a year is fine for a non turbo non gdi engine.
But in a turbo gdi ecoboost that idles a lot I wouldn't take that ford syn blend a year. I'd take it to 3k to be safe if I wanted to own it for a long time.
I think another problem is short trips and not letting the oil get hot enough to burn off any moisture the accumulates in the oil
I change my oil twice a year based on temperature. 5W-30 in the hot summer and 0W-30 in the freezing winter. Lighter oil in the winter helps the engine start easily, oil reaches parts of the engine faster, less strain on the oil pump and starter and you get heating faster too!
I drive about 45k per year city driving. I change my oil every 4-5k with Mobil 1 and use k&n or Mobil 1 filter.
Thanks for this video, Boss. My grandmother has an older Ford and somehow some tech convinced her and my mother to only change the oil once a year. I had to use said vehicle recently and can hear noises I shouldn't hear. I am sending this to them. I even suggested they do it twice a year (every six months). Thanks again for this video!
I would Put 1 quart of Marvel Mystery oil and run it 1,000 Miles. Make sure to install a New Oil Filter, You wouldn't need to do a full Oil change (unless you have the extra $$), Just make sure not to Over Fill the oil..... 4.6 engines Oil filter hold around 3/4 of a Quart of Oil so that should be enough drained by doing that, Or just crack the drain plug and let some come out. After 1,000 Miles that Mystery Oil should clean it up pretty good and you'll *Have* to change the *Oil*
@@Robs_Got_A_Gun& GeritoS. Yea that is a good idea with the MARVEL Mystery Oil. 👌 Make sure you can get on the highway for a good while so that the oils good and hot, allowing that MMO to really get in to every nook and cranny of the valve train, timing chain assembly, etc... I'd run a half quart or more in it after that all the time, especially if they are running a conventional oil in it for her. A full synthetic and a little MMO all the time would really help her engine and your peace of mind too! Good Luck !!!( Rob; Is that your sister Janie? that has a Gun too! A little attempt at Aerosmith humor there😂)
@@tinamcgarrah7794 Yeah i use Marvel Mystery oil in everything i Buy or maybe once a Year, i noticed if i use it in my Gas on a Fuel injected vehicle you can definitely smell the Fumes from the Mystery oil when you first start it because they run really Rich on a Cold start
@@tinamcgarrah7794 and lol alot of people Mention Aerosmith, i like the song, I'm 27 so i do like Old School Rock, But these younger Kids don't have a Clue what Aerosmith is. My Gamertag on Xbox is "Robs Got A Gun" so i decided to make all of my Usernames the same thing
@@Robs_Got_A_Gun That's cool, Aerosmith was a very cool band. 😎 America's Stones kind of... Jagger and Richards...Tyler and Perry! Pretty much b4 your time, but with technology, they'll be there about forever to discover to those wishing too. It's better to have a gun,and not need it! Than to need it, and not have one! Yea MARVEL has that distinctive Wintergreen smell, but much better than Sulphur (rotten eggs), Cars in the 80's were bad for that, b4 they got the emission systems totally figured out...Only drawback to MMO is it will build up a little on the plugs after continued use. But hey I like cleaning and filing the plugs every once in a long while, it's just old school fun, and you'll see quick if a cylinder is going away on you!!! Well Aim True, and Squeeeeeeze the Trigger! JETHRO
I change oil 6 months max. Even with a few hundred miles. I can see and smell the difference. I always warm up to normal and rev to 2000 or 3000 on short runs. My engines are very clean. I put gas preservative in, and lucas gas clean and they start instantly even at teen temps. I may be silly, but I change filters every time. As a youngin my oil burners would freeze on and crush fram filters. Change often and hand tighten filters 3/4 turn apx. It has always been a successful 300,000 mile plus on my autos.
People don't listen to us. They want to complain about the failure when it all boils down to oil is cheaper than a motor. Love your content. Keep it up!
Seeing the piston, it also looks like the oil control ring groove is very small, tbh to small.
VAG 2.0TFSI had the same thing using oil before 100k km.
100% agree. I own a Ford Flex 3.5L with 112,000 and an EB 2.0L Fusion with 66,000 and I change the oil every 3 months. These vehicles see sometimes less than 3,000 between OCIs and I've had absolutely no issues with them.
That’s a little ridiculous
😅😂@@anthonyr5869
This is good advice as a rule of thumb. However, the best thing to do is to have a reputable shop like blackstone laboratories analyze your cars oil after a few changes. They can then identify wjat is best for your specific vehicle, climate, and driving conditions. They saved me from blowing up a motor once because a problem was caught early. Since then I can't say enough about their service.
Regardless this is the rule of thumb that people should go back
I do 5k in about 3 months. Fresh full synthetic with a premium filter every time without fail. Wife's ride barely does 5k in a year, still gets changed twice a year, always right before summer, then again after summer. We're in Texas, so even cooler weather is unpredictable.
Totally agree. People need to realize with changes in temperature throughout the year moisture will contaminate that oil
Exactly ... and combine that with barely driving it and short tripping it ... oil never heats up enough to "boil off" the moisture.
I get my oil changed done before and after winter (winter is around 6 months). I know it's odd
Thank you for the voice over without the shop noise. I appreciate the work you put into this content.
🤞 Hoping my 2-3k oil changes and MMO in my fuel are keeping my 2.0l eco clean. At 196k going to hit 200k in the next few months 🤞🤞 _hopefully._ 🍀🍀
I'm never buying an Ecoboost vehicle used because we know damn well hardly anyone is changing the oil enough .
Seeing is believing. Teardown reveals alot here. Ford must love your "dirty engine" comments 🤣
Good video Rich, I live by that. My oil in all my vehicles gets changed every 3000 to 3500 miles. Even my Dodge Cummings gets changed twice a year and I typically only put 2000 miles a year on it outside of our vacations in which it changed when I get back.
I also agree with your what you are saying I have a 2000 tundra I have change the oil every 3000 miles and I use full synthetic 5-30 I have 245,000 on it and it does not even use a quarter of a quart between oil changes I know they say you can go longer with synthetic oil but I just change it every 3000 anyway oils cheap
And it's a Toyota..best of both worlds, engineering and maintenance!
Of the year and a half I’ve owned my 1.5 fusion I’ve had to add coolant once I think. A quarter inch to the reservoir after 20,000 miles. It has 58000 miles on it though.
Same with me. 50k just about and besides last week, the last time I topped off my coolant was 2yrs ago
Maybe I'm delusional but I thought if you engine/cooling system was in good shape you didn't have to add coolant. I've easily put over 100k on vehicles without the coolant dropping.
Boss Man, I still can't understand for the life of me why some are pushing this "20,000 mile" OCI. That is just bonkers to me. For some people who only make short trips, that could end up being several years! I understand there are some really expensive "high performance" oils out there so maybe they are trying to justify their high cost, but it's really being penny wise and pound foolish. For people who say they "don't have the money" I say "hogwash". You can purchase a 5 qt jug of Chevron synthetic blend oil for about $17 at Walmart and get a Motorcraft filter for another $4. So that's $21 for a very low budget oil change. If you don't have any money, you can certainly afford $21 to at least do that if nothing else. Sure beats not doing the oil change at all.
yes its not the oil that matters but what gets in the oil.
It really adds up to $18.00 (14 + 4).... :)
@Fran Danco I updated the price, that oil is now $3 more at Walmart. Thanks.
My father was mechanic for a bit of time in the 50's. He taught to change. Oil every 1500 miles. I 've seen inside of engines look factory new after 10 yrs.
I only drive 3,000 miles a year, if that, but I live in a rural area surrounded by 55mph roads, few traffic lights. While I trade vehicles every 3 years, I finally get it, and started changing oil at the Ford dealer at least twice a year. One mechanic came out and thanked me, and said I was saving major damage in the near future. He also told me not to trust the tire pressure sensors, but rather manually check the tires monthly with a good gage, and to check under the hood frequently for rodent nests.
But Scotty says one year 🤣🤣🤣🤣. I’m very paranoid about my oil changes. You’re the only person I let touch my vehicles & you know how clean my engine is. I do my oil every 3k miles or 5 months
In fairness Scotty does say 3000-5000 miles, and a year maximum but it’s not best. He says pretty much the same, oil is cheap, engines are expensive. But he also hates eco boost engines too ;).
follow Scotty. made more sense
I keep seeing comments about various newer vehicles being very hard on oil. I wonder what the dealer and Ford think about your comments on changing oil at 5000 miles or sooner? What is the recommended interval from the factory for oil changes? interesting video, think about how many engines are going with extended oil change intervals.
my ford pass app originally told me 10,000 miles on a 2019 2.0 ecoboost lol, it was going off the way your drive. but then it seems to have gotten updated to to be more regular.
@@enacku 10k miles is max, probably highway usages.
Changing my oil in the car once a year and about 12-18.000km.
Sludge building up is probably from short trips, have seen that in the Fiat/Abarth 1.4T engines ( Europe version ).
I don't know why I would be concerned with what my dealer what Ford says about my oil change intervals? I'm not concerned with what somebody else thinks if what I'm stating is fact
My dealer puts 5000 my stickers Max in people's windows because we know what works
And if you pull out your Ford service manual you'll see that most people try to operate under normal circumstances which and none of us operate under and then you have to switch over to the severe-duty circumstance which is closer to my recommendations except mine are just a little bit better
So if you have any further questions about me being the professional that I am in the recommendations that I make please ask I'll answer them because I'm going to shoot you straight I don't care what anybody else thinks about what I say because I know what freaking works
As a dealer tech for over 30 years I've seen quite a few sludged up engines, but I feel that a lot of what forms the deposits has to do with driving habits, type of oil, and temperature achieved each time the car is ran. My own father's car is a good example, he was religious about changing the oil in his then new '70 Chevy. He ran strictly Pennzoil 10w30 from day one and it got changed every 2k. The problem was the car never went more than a mile or two at a time. He worked a mile away, he shopped a mile away, and so on. It only got fully warmed up maybe once or twice a year. By 30k the engine was a mess, it looked like someone poured brown wax into that thing and filled it up. I pulled the engine because of multiple lifter failure at 29k in 1990. It took three days in the tank to clean the block. The cylinders were scored, the oil rings stuck, and the valve guides were wiped out. I rebuilt the engine, and from then on it ran only on Mobil 1 oil. I sold the car four years go with 38k on it just past the 50 year mark and a look under the valve covers showed the engine was as clean as it was the day I put it back together.
Fast Forward to now, I have two cars and four diesel trucks. All are 1997 and 2003 model Fords. None has more than 10k on the clock. My Crown Vic came from a customer at the last dealer I worked at, she would bring it in every 2 months for an oil change, using only her own Mobil 1 5w30 oil and a factory filter. Most times I saw the car it had only 5 to 10 miles on it since the last oil change. When she hung up her license in her 90's I was able to buy the car off her. It was basically a 10 year old car with 1,300 orignal miles. For what she wanted for the car I couldn't pass it up even though I really didn't need it. The worst part about it was that she was hard on the bumper corners, mostly scraping them up in and out of her garage but for $1000, I bought it anyway.
I drive the car maybe twice a year, it lives on Mobil 1 oil. I change the oil every 5k, and the car only gets used on longer rides. so when it comes out of the garage its for at least a 100 mile run or more. Otherwise I run my other, same year, same color, same model car that has 4k on it.
I just changed the oil in both the other day, (Gave all my vehicles an oil change). The oil that came out was every bit as clean as when it went in. The car with 1,700k had oil that looked absolutely perfect, it hadn't been changed in 4 years but it had gone only 210 miles since then. I cut open several of the filters and they look just as spotless.
My daily driver, had 4k on its oil, and it was just as clean. The diesel trucks, which hold much more oil, were running solely synthetic oil as well, with one having had Mobil 1, and the other three having Chevron Delo full synthetic. The Mobil Delvac Synthetic oil came out with barely any color after 4k, and the Chevron oil came out far more dirty after far less miles, (2,300, 3k, and 1,050 k)
The truck with the Mobil 1 for what ever reason always seemed to be quieter overall and was a bit easier to start on cold days All of them had last been changed in 2017 but they only get used sparingly, and even more sparingly now that diesel is over $4/gal most of the time.
(I also can't justify running a 1 ton truck to do grocery shopping either).
Back in 2015, I bought two barrels of the Chevron oil, one in 5w40 and the other in 15w40 from a supplier who was closing up, so I'll be using it for some years to come, maybe the rest of my life but I feel the Mobil Delvac is a better oil.
At over $100 per oil change and less than a few hundred miles driven a year, there's no way I'm changing the oil in those trucks every year, it would be nuts. I put each of them back away in the garage with a fresh oil change and full battery charge after a quick test drive last week, I know that at least a few of them will likely never be used again for the rest of the year. The same with the lower mileage car. I highly doubt any of them will see any engine damage in my lifetime, and I don't foresee needing to do another oil change in them for another five to eight years. I do on occasion pull them out of the garage for a quick run around the block and to warm them up fully before a fresh wash and wax every fall, and to sweep out the garage and get ready for winter. One truck has more aggressive snow capable tires on it, so its the only one that may on occasion come out in the cold months, but in past years, we've had no snow so it sat. With the cost of new trucks, and my now being retired on only Soc. Sec. they have to last me the rest of my life.
Ford Boss you called it again. Great video sir, TMP from N.J.
I think people hear short trips and idling and don’t believe it’s a big deal. I think they would understand better if they understood that water condensation is a huge product of short tripping and that WATER OXIDIZES OIL FAST. Oxidized oil doesn’t do a good job!
I know that all places at least back in the day when they put that sticker on your windshield was always 3 to 5k kilometers (the amount I'm not 100 percent sure of) OR every 3 months. I've no idea if places still preach this, since I've been doing my own oil for the last... 15 years? Yea, that's some gross stuff!
Honestly this is why I drive a 1987 F-150 with a 4.9 L I6 and a manual transmission going into a 8.8 inch rear end only 87,000 original miles on it and I paid 700 bucks for it 5 years ago I really wonder how long this thing's going to go I wouldn't be surprised if my kid can drive it in the future
That video is amazing man....i never knew this can happen even with little driving thank you for letting us know
Looks like a lot of short trips, never getting the engine up to temp to burn off the condensation, sad with only 18,000 miles. Looks like it had 150k hard miles on it.
Quick question Rich, was factory oil and filter used? Thanks again. Great channel
Absolutely but before we get into talking about the Integrity of the factory oil and filter I just did an analysis on it it's very good stuff
@@FordBossMe no I wasn’t questioning the factory oil was just wandering if they went to jiffy lube like place. I use factory oil 5 months or 3000 miles on my 250. So just curious
@@FordBossMe is the ford recommended oil full synthetic or partially synthetic
I do a decent amount of highway driving but not like most people. I like to push my car up to triple digit speeds with high RPM so I usually change my oil every 3K-4K miles.
My 2020 Ecoboost Mustang with the high performance package I bought in March of 21’ is approaching 7k miles and it’s 3rd oil change. I installed a JLT oil separator as soon as I got the car.
This is probably why electric vehicles are becoming more popular. No fluids to inspect or replace because people are too ignorant, lazy, or busy to bother until the vehicle has an issue. By then it's going to cost a lot.
I don't understand why this happens. Oil changes are so inexpensive. Even if you go to Quick Lube shop. Shoot, you can go to Walmart or Costco, do your shopping while they change your oil...
Mario DIY - Wait until those EV people have to change out the Battery/ies on their car....In the thousands of dollars..... :) And add up all the Extra Hours spent, waiting to get the Battery charged at charging stations... :)
I've always said oil is cheaper than an engine. Took my recently purchased Camry in and had it changed. They told me I could go 10k. I was at 4k. Told them to change it anyway. These long intervals just don't sit well with me.
Shop I go too know me by name I could do it myself but I live in an apartment and where I park is kinda gravel area so I can’t really do oil changes there. Sometimes I go to my friends garage but the shop knows I want just basic oil and I do 5000 oil intervals. Cars almost 20 years old still driving down the road why’ll most new cars I see on flat bed tow trucks
Yes even my first oil I was told I could push it out to 7k up to 10k but I did it at maybe 2k because to me it is the break in oil and break in was over although not completely. At 96k now and still no oil burning.
I do my Toyota every 5k maybe 7500 when I go on vacation and it's all highway but definitely 10k is too long if you plan to keep it for longer then 75-100k even now I have 4500k on my oil and it's feeling like it needs changed.
My '01 Chevy conversion van oil gets changed about annually. It gets stored indoors during the winter months and when I do change it, which will be this week, it's still pretty decent from an optics standpoint. Hash marks are still very visible on the dipstick and doesn't burn any with no lifter tick. I'm in upstate NY and my trips included WVA, KY , and FL last year before putting her down for the season. A good oil and filter with driving habits that allow the oil to do its job will allow you to do those o/c intervals
For turbo, European and diesel including all VW/Audi/Porsche TDI do a 5W-40 full synthetic at all times.
I run three old Fords, 1979-86 drive around 1,000 miles per vehicle per year, and replace the oil on them once a year, every year with premium AmsOil. Probably nearly a decade at this point. I have yet to have a problem with any of my motors and oil issues, and my 79 Continental doesn't even burn oil. The used oil flows well even at cold temperature off the stick, and looks brand new in the dump oil pan flowing hot out on oil changes.
This isn't arguing with you, or giving bad advice to others. Just a simple statement of fact. My old Cleaveland and Windsors seem to be doing fine on the once a year oil change.
I get what you're saying but by you saying what you're saying here that actually can retract from my message to other people so when you say I'm not trying to do this you actually are doing it and I know you don't mean anything by it
The engine in this video is a small, turbo'd gasoline engine. That's what he is mainly addressing. These ecoboosts run hard and hot, they are a lot rougher on oil and components. Totally different animal. If what you're doing works for your vehicles then cool, but for the context of this video it couldn't be less relevant.
I believe these Ford engines are basically a badly-designed engine which causes its own problems
@@krod2162 I believe Mr. Mitchum made a good point, that these motors aren't bad designs, but that they are designs that need much higher maintenance. My old Cleaveland and Windsor V-8's are naturally aspirated, and either port injected or carb'ed, which can run very dirty with less to almost no problems compared to modern direct injection. Keeping any motor clean from carbon is good, but in DI it is crucial.
Turbos are, indeed, hard on oil. All that heat helps to break down the oil much faster compared to cool running naturally aspirated. So, yes, again, it isn't a problem inherent with the Ford EcoBoost, but rather a consideration of all and any turbocharger.
When properly maintained the EcoBoost seems to be a reliable engine that holds up well, showing they aren't a junk motor that is poorly designed. But a touchy motor that needs more care than a big old NA low compression cast iron workhorse.
I'm going to have to disagree. My father's TDI got 10,000 miles and a synthetic oil change when they came due, about twice a year it got changed.
Thing has never had an engine issue, emissions systems not withstanding as the DPF went at 200k miles and was covered under warranty and the EGR valve is now toast.
The high salt diet is what really killed that thing.
Maybe it makes a difference at 300k miles but there isn't a passenger vehicle in existence that can survive that long where I live before the frame is gone and about all the parts have been replaced.
No idea why the mechanics and engineers disagree so much over it oil change intervals, the new oil is light-years better than the stuff from 30 years ago.
There is no disagreeing
There is me educating people and those who don't give a crap what they screw up and keeping doing it out of ignorance
My profession speaks for itself and your ideology doesn't
Tear your engine down and look inside to help refute your claim.
@@chicanobluesaz4191 lol I'm not tearing down a running 350k km diesel for some dude on the internet. Maybe I'll send you a video of it getting an emissions delete.
@@vhateverlie Do it
He speaks facts! Thank you
Yet here in the UK (probably europe too) there are plenty of cars that do 10k+ per year on a yearly service with no issues at all
It's not same
Oil is different and people there actually drive their cars
Yes, its called cooperate greed, they downsized the engines that much, that they are all junk. A normal and proper build engine should not have a problem with an 12 month and 8k interval.
Sounds like a crap engine design.
This is why I write the date and mileage on my filter when I change it so I can keep track of this.
If I change my oil every six months using Mobile 1 synthetic, is that enough? I drive 7-10 miles to work one way, mostly city but in light traffic and with some roads where the speed limit is 45 miles per hour. I am able to get the oil to operating temp about half way in my commute usually. That is literally the only thing I use my car for. I put on about 2k mikes per year.
Yeah but I wouldn't use mobile one it's not actually that great of an oil I would use something like Valvoline extended protection
When I change my 6.7 powerstroke oil 3-4K it will not be black with soot more like dark honey color I add friction reducer and have a draft tube even the old 7.3 with no emissions had more soot in the oil not sure why
New subscriber
Thanks
I do short trips...3000 miles or every 3 months.. 2UZFE...229.k ..runs like new...
Thanks for a great educational video
I have a 2017 ford mustang with an
eco boost turbo engine. I bought it brand new and according to Ford
Australia their recommended oci is
15000kms or once a year. I have done 91000kms and recently its smelling a bit fumy.When i told them about it they said it was a bad pcv valve.They changed it and still very fumy. To be honest my engine has probably already been compromised
I wish i had seen your video a few years ago. Anyway from now on i will do my own oil changes at 7000 -
8000kms or every 5 mths for the rest of my motoring life,regardless of what make or model i am driving.
Cheers from downunder!
There is no time like the present, just shorten it up some
Use a decent engine flush a couple times and shorten the oil change length up and you should be good
exactly. does not matter if you are running the best, most expensive oil, change your oil at least every 6 months or 3000mile's - witchever comes first. your engine will thank you for it. Those driving to work in the city or town then back home, then change your oil before the 6 months - 3000k mile's. The problem with that kind of driving is the oil wont get to operating temperture, and wont burn off the condensation when the oil is cold.
Never rev your car when cold, cool your car down before shutoff i.e idle for a min. after a long drive idle for a min to two mins, this is even more important on turbocharged or supercharged engine's. That's if your want the best longevity out of your engine.
But with 18,000 miles what about the warranty??
We are a three car family with only two drivers. We do once a year oil changes but they are in the 3000 MI range or even less. Only syn oil and quality filters. Most time the dirty oil still looks quite clean and the oil change system still says the oil is fine.
Amen to that.
I get good engine life on my Fords. I used to change oil every 5K with regular oil. I got 382K on my Sport Trac Explorer. But with synthetic I was told I can go to 10K before changing. And a lot of people work from home (now). Maybe that is making things much worse.
My 84yr old mother drives a 2012 Jeep Patriot 2.4L that has less than 25k miles on it. She only drives short trips but less than 3k miles a year total. I use good full synthetic (Mobile1) and premium filters. I change the oil in it once a year and it seems fine. It sets in a heated garage most of the time. I want to maintain it properly but I see no reason to be changing her oil 2 times a year with less than 1500 miles on it. It's not a turbo charged engine and the oil stays pretty clean between OCI's. I'm more concerned with the 10yr old tires that it still has on it but she hardly even gets above 45 miles an hour on her short trips across town.
Brother this is not about what your personal opinion is on the vehicle that you're very familiar with
this is about what I'm telling the public to keep their vehicles on the road without spending lots of money so please remember my message does not equal what your message personally trumps
Mobil 1 is not a “great” synthetic anymore.
Switch to Amsoil Full synthetic
You can thank me later
This advice is really for direct injection and those with a turbo
And anyone with a suck ass Eco Boost piece of garbage.
Tires have expire date. Change out those tires.
Thanks again for the video and info. See can’t believe some folks still neglect oil changes. I thought I saw a White Castle in the background at the beginning of your video. Making me hungry for a sack of sliders! 😋
I dont understand why people make payments on a $30,000+ vehicle when they dont leave the house. I worked on a car the other day that had around 5,000 miles on an oil change, but took 3 years to get that far
I just bought a new 2021 F150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost engine and appreciate your expertise and advice on maintaining it. It is my first Ecoboost engine. It will primarily be my daily drivers, but I do tow a travel trailer for get aways every 2 to 3 months. I’d also appreciate your thoughts on schedules for other fluid maintenance, such as transmission, differential, and coolant changes. Also, with the cam phaser/timing belt issues, would It be a good idea to also install an oil catch can. I did see your video on how to avoid the cold start rattles. Thanks again for making your videos. You provide a great service to Ford customers.
No amount of oil changes will stop the timing chain stretch and cam phasers knocking that’s just bad designs or the turbos cracking the housings and leaking coolant internally that I have never seen that on a aftermarket turbo even on 1500+hp motors. They make great power but it’s a trade off on longevity unfortunately
I run synthetic and change once a year, but I only drive about 3,000 miles a year. Maybe I need to go back to twice a year.
nope.. you are fine. trust me.. but better you change it after 2500 miles. if in a year you haven't reached 2500 miles, still change it
Would using TopTier gas from stations like Phillips, Shell and Connoco and avoiding federally standard minimum cleaning agent gas at the Casey's, Kwik Star, HyVee, etc also make a difference in the amount of carbon build up on the pistons, valves and other areas? I don't recall anyone on CZcams talking about TopTier gas vs standard gas. First I ever heard was reading my 2023 Toyota Camry guide.
You set yourself a hard task convincing people to change their oil 2x per year, but keep it up.
I think maintenance can be fun, dorky as it sounds. Changed my fluid in front and rear diff, power steering, brake lines, coolant, oil, trans etc, and it felt really good. I had to research for some but was still able to do them all on my first try.
Hard task?? Humans are unintelligent and uninformed idiots you are saying? What is hard to understand about 3-5k miles OCI?? Seems pretty simple and cheap to me. When I worked at dealerships full fluids would run much more money but simple oil changes are about as cheap as half a tank a gas.
@@jamesmedina2062 take it easy, man. I don't appreciate being paraphrased as a misanthrope. I'm sure from working at a dealership you understand people don't change their oil as often as they should.
@@KF1No not really. People that neglect their vehicles do not want to be seen near a dealership and believe dealerships to be full of evil which they kind of are. Oil changes are like religion. Its something that is usually unseen and you either observe your faith or you don't. But having worked there I know that despite adoring money, dealerships possess the talent of brand/model experts. When you want the truth, go there. As for oil, people are stupid. Call me a misanthrope. I accept it.
You really have a knack for misinterpreting things people say. Not sure where to begin, so I won't bother.
@@KF1 You give your opinion. I give my opinion. I got your opinion. You didn't get mine. Don't worry about it.
2015 F150 2.7 EcoBoost
128K and change the oil with Mobil One every 5K since new. Oil stays amber color through about half of the life cycle. I run Marvel Mystery Oil in the crankcase every 30K miles and perform an Engine DeCarbon every 15K. Runs beautifully ... plan on going to atleast 250K miles.
Want a better oil to help keep even cleaner?!
Valvoline advance 5w30
I use the Mobil One Truck & SUV 5w30 ... do you think the Valvoline is better ???
I only change my oil once a year because they sit six months out of the year.
Chevy doesn't have these kinds of concerns. With the low mileage use of my newer vehicles they get 1 oil change a year. I had an old Chevrolet truck with a 350 motor that I used just to haul trash and wood. I can't remember the last time it had an oil change😅 but it still runs strong with over 350,000 miles on it
Thanks Ford Boss me! I just reached 3,000 miles after my engine replacement. I will follow your recommendations. I will switch to full Synthetic Motorcraft 10w30. To help with sludge build up. Do you recommend the Full Synthetic instead of The Motorcraft blend. You don't say which oil they are using. Thanks, Again for everything you show and teach us about the Eco-Boost engines. Shawn.
THANK YOU! FINALLY SOMEONE THAT UNDERSTANDS... 3000 miles tops. I agree with his exceptions too. My chevy is changed every 3000 miles religiously and is now past 198,000 miles.
you know, I drive 5k miles in town with 2009 pontiac vibe and it burns oil with the 2.4 engine. I add a quart every 1800 miles. looks like I can do one year because I end up replacing 50% of the oil every 5k miles/1 year. People say an oil burning engine like mine is bad. it looks like with short trips, it's a good thing. LOL
What needs to be mentioned is the use of quality petrol, with additional detergents to keep the bores and rings clean. Short journeys where the engine doesn't get up to temp are lethal for any engine. If my Mercedes CLK 3.5 is stood for more than a week I make sure that I take it for a drive that is at least 30 minutes, or 30 miles, and fully up to temp, and with any condensation boiled off.
I'm shocked that 6,000 mile oil changes killed that engine, modern oils are supposed to be much better at staying on the metal surfaces for protection on cold starts, and detergents for cleaning deposits off.
Great advice....
Corolla Hybrid SE AWD
4 month intervals / Calgary, AB Mobil 1 OW-16 + Toyota Filter
January, February, March, April
May, June, July, August
Sept, Oct, November, December
5,000 kilometers = 3,125 miles ✅
6,000 kilometers = 3,750 miles ✅
7,000 kilometers = 4,375 miles ✅
8,000 kilometers = 5,000 miles ✅
This is a new information for me about oil changes, thanks for the video..!