A little late to the party but i just found a pcs 4 stand on fb market place for $20! It needed a little pb blaster and wd40 on a couple parts. Now it's working good as new! I love it!
Gid'ay Great Review. It helped me to decide to upgrade to the same stand from a older PS-1 Park Tool stand. It use to have the similar style folding legs as the PCS-4. What I use to do is use two heavy duty cable/zip ties which would lock the legs into the open position, So I could move the stand with a bike clamped in place without the legs folding up!. The only issue is you have to remove them to fold up the stand for storage. But cable/zip ties are cheap to buy. Thanks.
+A J MacDonald Jr Good to know the PCS-4 head comes mounted on other models. Where I live, the PCS-10 is a little easier to procure locally without having to resort to importing it via eBay. Thanks!
+TypeVertigo I also have the PCS-10 and from what I see, I prefer that over the PCS-4. The head is somewhat different, but essentially the same. On the PCS-10 its a complete metal head; not sure about the PCS-4. The biggest difference is the legs on the PCS-10; it has two fold-out legs and the whole thing seems to fold up smaller (good for travel by car) than the PCS-4.
+A J MacDonald Jr I haven't used the PCS 10 so I can't give a personal perspective on the differences, but the head looks similar to the 4. The 10 is more economical. Thanks for the post.
Does a good job of holding my 35 LB XL 29er Surly ECR. Since cabling runs along the frame, I clamp to the seat post. To position my chain so that it is parallel to the ground, I rotate the clamp. I can rotate the pedals with force and the bike remains stationary.
Great review, I have been thinking about getting one of these. I have the PCS-10 right now but have been a little disappointed with it. I have some heavy bikes that the PCS-10 doesn't handle that well. This one is rated up to 100lbs so it might be just what I need.
I seen in reviews that if you put a 40 pound bike on this model by the seat post it bends down, and you can't work the peddles. I assume that's why you hooked it up by the frame, to hid this flaw?
+Daniel Rice I have not had this issue nor have I heard of it. Most bikes I try to clamp by the seat post but from time to time i will clamp by the top tube. You just have to be very careful when clamping by the top tube that you don't put too much force. My heaviest bike is only 28 pounds and my lightest bike is about 18.
I've also got a lower range but very similar park tool stand one main issue... my pivoting mechanism sometimes locks tight when this happens I have to wrech it loose by twisting it very hard
I had this happen sometimes on my other stand but it was after years of use that it started doing it. I would have the bike in the stand when it happened so I would just loosen the mechanism and then rotate the bike a bit and it would unstick.
Is there any maintenance I should do on the stand? I normally let it sun dry after use and pack it away Should I be drying it thoroughly and greasing it?
Nice review but I still prefer Feedback stands over Park Tool. I glad Park change the clamp design but I still try not clamp on my frame if I can avoid.
Thanks for the great Review video Clint. I have got a question about the space between the PCS-4-2's frame and the inner pedal of the clamped in bike. Is there enough space to work on the inner pedal, or does the pedal hit the frame of the PCS-4-2's frame when it is rotating?
Clint, any idea how it will handle heavier bikes in excess of 60 lbs.? I wrench on ballooners and middleweights that are heavier than snot. My cheap tripod-style stand is constantly tipping and have even had the plastic gears fail when I tried rotating the bike 90 degrees. Would the PCS 4-2 be adequate or should I spend the coin on a PRS 3-2.2?
there is no reason to pay extra for this stand . park has too many stands. pick one mounting system and stick with it instead of offering inferior products and overpricing the good stuff. if you can't clean the bike without rusting the stand parts, what is the point? for that cash it ought to be completely stainless steel. i bet the profit margins on these cheapo stands are enormous!
Juan, you are correct. NEVER clamp your tubes ! do not take advice from casual users of tools. for confirmation, email Hambini. he is on youtube too and is a real engineer, not a guy working out of his garage. on the other hand, if the poster is willing to put down a significant cash deposit to back up his bad advice, i say go for it!
Interesting that you use the top tube to clamp the TCX, Clint. I had held off on getting a clamp-type workstand because I couldn't really figure out where on the frame (or indeed, on the seatpost) to best clamp it - unlike yours, my TCX has an aluminum frame. Have you tried clamping on the seatpost?
Yes, seat post works fine too. And that would probably be preferred on the older aluminum model because they had cable routing externally on the top tube.
Seatpost is definitely preferred but if that's not possible (I.e. if you have an aero seatpost) then you can clamp by the top tube if you have a stand with adjustable tension and you use very very light tension.
Clint Gibbs Mine's a 2014 SLR 2 model and it had internal cable routing through the downtube. I guess either option (seat post, top tube, maybe even seat tube) would work fine. Thanks!
it would be good if bike stand featured a crank winch/hoist or hydrualic jack to assist lifting heavy bikes into the stand avoiding having to lift bikes into the stand
I've never used one. I use a work stand too frequently to go with a real cheap one. I would imagine that they would be more flimsy and not last near as long as a good quality one.
Thanks for checking. We fared very well. Even the local trails are in good shape. Much better than the folks on the coast, especially around Saint Augustine. They got hammered.
A little late to the party but i just found a pcs 4 stand on fb market place for $20! It needed a little pb blaster and wd40 on a couple parts. Now it's working good as new! I love it!
Gid'ay Great Review. It helped me to decide to upgrade to the same stand from a older PS-1 Park Tool stand. It use to have the similar style folding legs as the PCS-4. What I use to do is use two heavy duty cable/zip ties which would lock the legs into the open position, So I could move the stand with a bike clamped in place without the legs folding up!. The only issue is you have to remove them to fold up the stand for storage. But cable/zip ties are cheap to buy. Thanks.
I guess I'm kinda randomly asking but does anybody know of a good website to watch newly released series online?
@Devin Lyle flixportal xD
@Jayce Jadiel thank you, I went there and it seems to work :D I appreciate it !
@Devin Lyle happy to help :)
I have the Park Tool PCS 10 work stand. It has the same head adjustment. I'm very happy with it. Money well spent.
+A J MacDonald Jr Good to know the PCS-4 head comes mounted on other models. Where I live, the PCS-10 is a little easier to procure locally without having to resort to importing it via eBay. Thanks!
+TypeVertigo I also have the PCS-10 and from what I see, I prefer that over the PCS-4. The head is somewhat different, but essentially the same. On the PCS-10 its a complete metal head; not sure about the PCS-4. The biggest difference is the legs on the PCS-10; it has two fold-out legs and the whole thing seems to fold up smaller (good for travel by car) than the PCS-4.
+A J MacDonald Jr I haven't used the PCS 10 so I can't give a personal perspective on the differences, but the head looks similar to the 4. The 10 is more economical. Thanks for the post.
FratboyJim Thanks for the insight! Good to know. I'll be looking into getting a PCS-10 soon.
I bought a CXWXC bike repair stand and it worked really well.
Does a good job of holding my 35 LB XL 29er Surly ECR. Since cabling runs along the frame, I clamp to the seat post. To position my chain so that it is parallel to the ground, I rotate the clamp. I can rotate the pedals with force and the bike remains stationary.
Great review, I have been thinking about getting one of these. I have the PCS-10 right now but have been a little disappointed with it. I have some heavy bikes that the PCS-10 doesn't handle that well. This one is rated up to 100lbs so it might be just what I need.
NIce review, but not the best place to clamp the bike frame.
You should take a Parktool PRS25 Team...
My Opinion Is I Highly Recommend Clamp On Seatpost Not On Top Tube
Thanks Clint👍🏻
I seen in reviews that if you put a 40 pound bike on this model by the seat post it bends down, and you can't work the peddles. I assume that's why you hooked it up by the frame, to hid this flaw?
+Daniel Rice I have not had this issue nor have I heard of it. Most bikes I try to clamp by the seat post but from time to time i will clamp by the top tube. You just have to be very careful when clamping by the top tube that you don't put too much force. My heaviest bike is only 28 pounds and my lightest bike is about 18.
Thanks Clint
I've also got a lower range but very similar park tool stand
one main issue...
my pivoting mechanism sometimes locks tight
when this happens I have to wrech it loose by twisting it very hard
I had this happen sometimes on my other stand but it was after years of use that it started doing it. I would have the bike in the stand when it happened so I would just loosen the mechanism and then rotate the bike a bit and it would unstick.
Is there any maintenance I should do on the stand?
I normally let it sun dry after use and pack it away
Should I be drying it thoroughly and greasing it?
Nice review but I still prefer Feedback stands over Park Tool. I glad Park change the clamp design but I still try not clamp on my frame if I can avoid.
I could swear you sound almost like Tom Hanks.
Thanks for the great Review video Clint. I have got a question about the space between the PCS-4-2's frame and the inner pedal of the clamped in bike. Is there enough space to work on the inner pedal, or does the pedal hit the frame of the PCS-4-2's frame when it is rotating?
Plenty of space to spin the pedals while you work on the bike.
@@ClintGibbs Thanks a lot for the quick reply Clint
People seem to be just as happy with some $50 stands.
Clint, any idea how it will handle heavier bikes in excess of 60 lbs.? I wrench on ballooners and middleweights that are heavier than snot. My cheap tripod-style stand is constantly tipping and have even had the plastic gears fail when I tried rotating the bike 90 degrees. Would the PCS 4-2 be adequate or should I spend the coin on a PRS 3-2.2?
I think it would be ok occasionally, otherwise I would go with a more heavy duty stand.
there is a plastic joint parts?
there is no reason to pay extra for this stand . park has too many stands. pick one mounting system and stick with it instead of offering inferior products and overpricing the good stuff. if you can't clean the bike without rusting the stand parts, what is the point? for that cash it ought to be completely stainless steel. i bet the profit margins on these cheapo stands are enormous!
ARENT YOU NOT SUPPOSED TO CLAMP BY THE TOP TUBE
Clamping by the top tube is fine. I mean you don't want to crank down super hard but if you do it normal pressure then it doesn't cause any issues.
+Clint Gibbs lost a trek superfly 9.9 doing that, most frames say do not clamp...
Juan, you are correct. NEVER clamp your tubes ! do not take advice from casual users of tools. for confirmation, email Hambini. he is on youtube too and is a real engineer, not a guy working out of his garage. on the other hand, if the poster is willing to put down a significant cash deposit to back up his bad advice, i say go for it!
Interesting that you use the top tube to clamp the TCX, Clint. I had held off on getting a clamp-type workstand because I couldn't really figure out where on the frame (or indeed, on the seatpost) to best clamp it - unlike yours, my TCX has an aluminum frame.
Have you tried clamping on the seatpost?
Yes, seat post works fine too. And that would probably be preferred on the older aluminum model because they had cable routing externally on the top tube.
Seatpost is definitely preferred but if that's not possible (I.e. if you have an aero seatpost) then you can clamp by the top tube if you have a stand with adjustable tension and you use very very light tension.
Clint Gibbs
Mine's a 2014 SLR 2 model and it had internal cable routing through the downtube. I guess either option (seat post, top tube, maybe even seat tube) would work fine. Thanks!
Clint how much does it cost?
+Theo Dounis MSRP is around $260. The PCS 10 (which I've never actually used) is similar and a bit more economical.
They are a lot more expensive up here in Canada.... LOL
Zip tie the legs
it would be good if bike stand featured a crank winch/hoist or hydrualic jack to assist lifting heavy bikes into the stand avoiding having to lift bikes into the stand
HOW ARE THE CHEAPO STANDS THAT ARE $40, DO THEY WORK? YOU MIGHT HAVE LET PEOPLE KNOW THAT YOUR STAND IS LIKE $260
I've never used one. I use a work stand too frequently to go with a real cheap one. I would imagine that they would be more flimsy and not last near as long as a good quality one.
Thanks for checking. We fared very well. Even the local trails are in good shape. Much better than the folks on the coast, especially around Saint Augustine. They got hammered.