If you can afford it, the guillotine fin guide from Apogee makes it super easy to get all your fins on dead straight. And all of them in just a few minutes by tacking them on with CA glue and zip kicker. You can handle the rocket immediately, then you can fillet the fins.
I would make a point of where you attach the parachute to the shock cord. It should be closer to the nose than the body, so the parts don't bump into each other during descent. Also, I always use a snap swivel to attach the parachute, so I can switch between chutes as desired.
Decals are best applied with luke warm water and I like to use a brush to get it lined up, they break easily. I also use glue in the water, old trick. I am not in love with your fin prep but the rocket looks good. See Apogee Rockets on rocket finishing. Interesting build.......................
Block sanding the back side of the wood sheet is a great way to cut parts to release from a balsa sheet. That is an old trick with die cut parts. Should be a non issue with laser cut, but it is still a good solution in these instances.
I photocopy the instruction page with the fin alignment guide and shock cord mount, leaving the instructions intact. Then I cut up the copy. All my plans/instructions are then filed in sheet protectors in a three ring binder.
I just got this kit, and I'm not happy with the flimsy balsa fins. I had to go back to where I got the kit to get a more sturdy, thicker balsa sheet to make new fins with. The fins turned out great. I can't believe Estes uses such a thin balsa sheet to make the fins on this E -powered rocket.
It's not needed if you tape the motor in like I did, starts at 30:40. I don't like to use the engine hooks in most rockets because they can get in the way of using different size motors.
Interesting build. ...but the kit looked like it included a metal launch lug motor retainer !? ...those make it a lot easier to load engines...why would you stuggle with tape?
Yeah I agree the metal motor hooks are easier to use than tape but on more than one occasion I've built a rocket that I wanted to fly on a non-estes motor and it would not fit due to the motor block and/or motor hook, so I normally just use tape so I don't have to worry about modifying the motor retention design and I know every motor I want to use will fit.
@@SuzukiKQ700owner yes, estes e motor is longer than the d motor. Did you watch until the end to see tape motor retention technique, that way the length doesn't matter.
Is there a reason you put the fins and motor mount on the opposite end of where the instructions called for? Also, my instructions say to space the fins from the end of the tube. Does any of this effect the CG or CP?
Yes, because my general standard practice with rocket building is to include a payload section, which is consistent with the way high power rockets are generally designed. For the Cherokee E it doesn't matter as much. The reasons for payload are: it's better for the rocket to recover as to halves rather than a long section and nose cone because the rocket is less aerodynamic with two long sections and helps it to recover more gently in high wind conditions, also it creates more space to add weight or electronics such as altimeter especially if you add a bulkhead on the bottom of the coupler. I think they probably directed gluing fins on shorter section of tube to help with alignment because it's easier to look down on the fins if the tube is shorter (dont have to stand up to look down maybe), I'm not sure of this but I believe that's right because if I recall correctly my kit came with a go/no go gage for fin alignment so the designer was concerned the builder would not get the alignment correct as these are very large fins and easy to see if they mis-spaced circumferentially or angular misaligned. Dont worry about the fins being up a little bit from the bottom of the tube. My thought is that the intent was to prevent the fins from breaking by letting the body tube hit the ground first. The fins are so big on this rocket that the cp is very far aft so you really dont have to worry about getting your stability caliber/s. Let me know if I got to all the questions or need more clarity good luck with the rest of the build!
I haven't tried it on an actual rocket yet but I've read that other people have had success doing it. I tried gluing a small piece of printer paper to balsa fin-stock a couple months ago and it looked really good. Didn't try spray painting but yes, it looks like a good technique I may need start implementing.
I just weighed the empty rocket on a KITCHEN GURUS scale and it read 102 grams. (I think it may still have some residual wadding left in it from last flight). I also weighed a new (not yet flown) Estes D12-5 motor on the scale and it read 46 grams. Tape for motor and wadding before flight gives me an on the pad weight estimate of about 175 grams.
Yes, the standard estes launch pad has two holes, one for a 1/8" rod and another for the 3/16" rod. The launch pad box normally includes a 1/8" rod but not the 3/16" rod, which you will need to buy separately for the Cherokee E, I normally find nice long rods at the hardware store that are great for launching rockets. Also for launching the larger rockets (D motors and up) put some weights on the ends of the legs to keep the launch pad from tipping over or use tent pegs.
That is true per the directions, I actually would say I disagree with cutting the launch lug in 2 pieces because it makes it harder to slide on the launch pad if they are slightly misaligned. Also rods at club launches may not be the exact right size or slightly bent from years of use, and Cherokee E flies straight without the extra time on rod during launch.
The fins were supposed to go onto the smaller white body tube.
I think it's fine either way. If you put the fins on the long tube then you can use the short tube as a payload.
Nice job, confusing the beginners, by having the audio off by about 2 minutes.
If you can afford it, the guillotine fin guide from Apogee makes it super easy to get all your fins on dead straight. And all of them in just a few minutes by tacking them on with CA glue and zip kicker. You can handle the rocket immediately, then you can fillet the fins.
I would make a point of where you attach the parachute to the shock cord. It should be closer to the nose than the body, so the parts don't bump into each other during descent. Also, I always use a snap swivel to attach the parachute, so I can switch between chutes as desired.
@@mgd76yt yes good tip on parachute placement! I shy away from swivels because I had one break on a larger rocket.
Interesting modifications. I will definitely incorporate some on mine. Thanks!
thank you so much! this video really helped me and my pop pop :)
Decals are best applied with luke warm water and I like to use a brush to get it lined up, they break easily. I also use glue in the water, old trick. I am not in love with your fin prep but the rocket looks good. See Apogee Rockets on rocket finishing. Interesting build.......................
Block sanding the back side of the wood sheet is a great way to cut parts to release from a balsa sheet. That is an old trick with die cut parts. Should be a non issue with laser cut, but it is still a good solution in these instances.
Lots of good tips, Thanks...
I photocopy the instruction page with the fin alignment guide and shock cord mount, leaving the instructions intact. Then I cut up the copy. All my plans/instructions are then filed in sheet protectors in a three ring binder.
That sounds like some good organization!
I just got this kit, and I'm not happy with the flimsy balsa fins. I had to go back to where I got the kit to get a more sturdy, thicker balsa sheet to make new fins with. The fins turned out great. I can't believe Estes uses such a thin balsa sheet to make the fins on this E -powered rocket.
Glad the fins turned out well. Was it difficult to get the rounded corners? Did you just use sandpaper for that?
We can finally do a rocket thank you
Thank you so much for doing this video. It doesn't look like you used the engine hook when assembling the motor mount. Is this needed?
It's not needed if you tape the motor in like I did, starts at 30:40. I don't like to use the engine hooks in most rockets because they can get in the way of using different size motors.
Interesting build.
...but the kit looked like it included a metal launch lug motor retainer !?
...those make it a lot easier to load engines...why would you stuggle with tape?
Yeah I agree the metal motor hooks are easier to use than tape but on more than one occasion I've built a rocket that I wanted to fly on a non-estes motor and it would not fit due to the motor block and/or motor hook, so I normally just use tape so I don't have to worry about modifying the motor retention design and I know every motor I want to use will fit.
Is it just me or is the motor mount way longer thank the motor?
I have a D12 motor, perhaps the E12 is longer?
@@SuzukiKQ700owner yes, estes e motor is longer than the d motor. Did you watch until the end to see tape motor retention technique, that way the length doesn't matter.
@@rwkhobbies1969 thank you
Is there a reason you put the fins and motor mount on the opposite end of where the instructions called for? Also, my instructions say to space the fins from the end of the tube. Does any of this effect the CG or CP?
There are several things you did different than the instructions. I’m trying to learn. Can you explain these choices to me?
Yes, because my general standard practice with rocket building is to include a payload section, which is consistent with the way high power rockets are generally designed. For the Cherokee E it doesn't matter as much. The reasons for payload are: it's better for the rocket to recover as to halves rather than a long section and nose cone because the rocket is less aerodynamic with two long sections and helps it to recover more gently in high wind conditions, also it creates more space to add weight or electronics such as altimeter especially if you add a bulkhead on the bottom of the coupler. I think they probably directed gluing fins on shorter section of tube to help with alignment because it's easier to look down on the fins if the tube is shorter (dont have to stand up to look down maybe), I'm not sure of this but I believe that's right because if I recall correctly my kit came with a go/no go gage for fin alignment so the designer was concerned the builder would not get the alignment correct as these are very large fins and easy to see if they mis-spaced circumferentially or angular misaligned. Dont worry about the fins being up a little bit from the bottom of the tube. My thought is that the intent was to prevent the fins from breaking by letting the body tube hit the ground first. The fins are so big on this rocket that the cp is very far aft so you really dont have to worry about getting your stability caliber/s. Let me know if I got to all the questions or need more clarity good luck with the rest of the build!
my rocket exploded
Have you tried papering your fins? I hated the sanding sealer and switched to that.
I haven't tried it on an actual rocket yet but I've read that other people have had success doing it. I tried gluing a small piece of printer paper to balsa fin-stock a couple months ago and it looked really good. Didn't try spray painting but yes, it looks like a good technique I may need start implementing.
Do you have a good estimate of the weight of the rocket upon final assembly?
I just weighed the empty rocket on a KITCHEN GURUS scale and it read 102 grams. (I think it may still have some residual wadding left in it from last flight). I also weighed a new (not yet flown) Estes D12-5 motor on the scale and it read 46 grams. Tape for motor and wadding before flight gives me an on the pad weight estimate of about 175 grams.
Will these rockets work with a standard launch pad that you can buy form the Estes website?
Yes, the standard estes launch pad has two holes, one for a 1/8" rod and another for the 3/16" rod. The launch pad box normally includes a 1/8" rod but not the 3/16" rod, which you will need to buy separately for the Cherokee E, I normally find nice long rods at the hardware store that are great for launching rockets. Also for launching the larger rockets (D motors and up) put some weights on the ends of the legs to keep the launch pad from tipping over or use tent pegs.
rwkhobbies thank you!
What kind of epoxy did you use?
Bob Smith Industries 30 minute
You made the rocket upside down. And you were supposed to cut the lug into 2 pieces.
That is true per the directions, I actually would say I disagree with cutting the launch lug in 2 pieces because it makes it harder to slide on the launch pad if they are slightly misaligned. Also rods at club launches may not be the exact right size or slightly bent from years of use, and Cherokee E flies straight without the extra time on rod during launch.
Wtf? These kits come with instructions which you obviously ignored. Congratulations 😢