What N Scale Track Should YOU Use?
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- čas přidán 12. 06. 2024
- I love using Kato Unitrack, but what track is best for you? In this video we look at six different types of N scale track and the advantages and disadvantages of each.
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LINKS TO PRODUCTS IN THIS VIDEO:
Kato Unitrack (N Scale): amzn.to/3kl9msS
Atlas Code 55 Track: amzn.to/3lkgUgH
Peco Code 55 Track: amzn.to/3n4RVyj
Bachmann EZ Track: amzn.to/3ZZ5o9w
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A note on the Kato #6 vs #4 switch. #6 switches are POWER ROUTING and cannot be changed. This means if you throw the switch, the power is cut off on the non thrown side. So this means you need to either add more power feeders, or just be aware that power is going to be cutoff. The Kato #4 Switch can be either or, there are jumpers (screws) on the bottom of the switch that allows you to choose between if you want it to power route, or not depending on its use. DO NOTE, that on some #4 switch's you need to see if it says Pat.P (Patent Pending) or not, some older switches have this. The Labeling on the pat.p #4's for power route and frog power....is backwards (that is on if off and off is on) this is fixed on current Kato switches, but it is something to look out for if getting used ones at a swap meet or e-bay.
Just getting into the hobby, I really can’t overstate how helpful this video was. Thank you for making it!
Welcome aboard! I echo his opinion of the Kato Uni-Track and the Atlas code 55. Personally, I run the atlas code 55, I found the Kato track to be very noisy. Its almost like the sound echoes in the void under the roadbed.
@travelah79, thank you for that bit of info. Just bought a starter set. You might have just saved me a lot of money, my friend.
@@travelah79, I'm looking at getting back into the hobby. In the past we used Atlas track on top of cork road bed. Is that still a thing or are people going with the embedded bed/track. I like the look of the Code 55 (more realistic) but are there considerations with locomotive/car compatibility?
@@edyost6433 because the rails of CODE 55 are shorter, if you have any rolling stock, with tall flanges, the flanges will ride on the ties. I swap out all of my trucks for new trucks and wheels with low profile flanges. I use MicroTrains 003-02-021 with FoxValleyModels 3310. Not only does this prevent the aforementioned problem, but now all my trucks are the same and they have the truck mounted couplers so I never have issues with couplers not working together.
This is the best breakdown of track options I’ve seen. Thanks!
I like Kato track more than I care for the bachman track. After I got the Kato, I tossed out all of the Bachman track I had. I would consider buying all Kato brand track and trains moving forward.
A very useful and informative video. I am a KATO user, and I feel that their quality is, in part, based on the Japanese model-train consumers who model very high-speed trains (300K/186mph); thus, they need to run their model trains three times the speed of their American counterparts and need more stable, tighter track. KATO also offers super-elevated curves (double track units).
Thanks for the detailed description Steve.
One point about peco code 80: the setrack turnouts have very compact geometry. If you are building a micro layout those turnouts significantly improve what you can build in a small space.
That is a great point. Those set track turnouts are super compact.
Kato has Compact items in the Unitrack lineup that are worth a look too
@@StevesTrains?
One of the good things about the way Peco have constructed their code 55 turnouts is that the code 80 track joins without needing an adaptor piece. I use 55 on the visible parts of my layout and 80 in the hidden storage..
I changed from Peco code55 to Kato because it is so much easier to use. The turnouts come with motors as standard and the #4 turnouts can be altered to non-power routing for DCC. With the Peco turnouts I needed to have servos and micro-switches to deal with the frog polarity. And when I got all that connected up I would still have to ballast the track. Also the Kato track makes it easier to change my mind - which I do regularly.
I put a tiny blob of solder on the stock rails just before the switch points and it seems to have solved the derailment problems for the #4 turnouts. The Peco turnouts are better in this regard because they have a small indentation in the stock rails to take the tips of the points and give a smoother transition. The blob of solder fulfils the same role by preventing the edge of the flange getting behind the point.
Another great advantage of Kato is the fact that you can run a train through a turnout with the switch set against it and the train will push the switch rails over. That allows some routes to operated without bothering to change the turnout. However you do have to turn "frog-power" off for this to work without a short circuit.
@NBLeopard hey you should do a vid of your solder mod;
All I have been able to find are people filing a notch in the rail for the offending point tip to slide into.
I’m modeling the Lincoln Park yard in Rochester NY. It was a B&O/NYC interchange with coaling tower and roundhouse. I think I’ll go Atlas 55 both in the yard and mainline, and Peco for the switches in the yard. My focus is the yard, with the mainline being just eye candy in the background.
Thanks for your opinions and advice. I previously used Peco track years ago. When I started using Kato N scale engines and building Ttrak modules now use Kato .
Very helpful. Learned a lot from you video. Thanks for sharing.
i went all kato , no regrets
Great video. I agree with the Kato #4 turnouts. I had some issues with them and actually use a combination of Peco code 80 turnouts and Kato Unitrack. Both work together flawlessly and look really good with fine detailing.
Great overview! I 10000% agree with your assesments, and have used all track you went over. Atlas Code 80 flex, with Peco Code 80 turnouts is the magic potion
Used to have fleischmann, then tried Kato few years ago.
Switched to Kato after that.
A couple points from someone who has bought every N scale track system at this point.
Minitrix is a German N gauge train track manufacturer that has tram track (similar to kato compact but larger) with a r193mm radius curve minimum. They have the same spacing as kato unitrack and use code 80 rail. Peco code 80 rail is the same as Minitrix R2 curves r228mm and is compatible (spacing wise) with kato unitrack giving you a medium continuous curve switch, something that kato doesn't have ( your choice between 19" radius and 8.5" radius r150mm) which will cause derailments. Minitrix and peco track will work seamlessly (radius 1 trix and radius 2 peco/trix) on the curved bridge system made by a few German manufacturers that look realistic in the USA aswell given their "steel" construction with poured concrete or brick piers.
On to Tomix, they are the only range with a 90 degree a 72.5 degree a 15 degree crossing with a double slip, 3 way yard switch aswell as a 280 mm continuous curve switch, which can fit on a 2 foot by 4 foot layout. Their track fits the proper height to mate with cork roadbed. They are the only n scale manufacturer ever to make stackable overhead line piers allowing for you to run trains over eachother. Aswell as the only manufacturer to ever make a double or single crossover bridge piece. They are the only roadbed integrated manufacturer to make not one but now 2 stackable bridge pier systems aswell as the only manufacturer of prefabricated embankments.
Bachmann is the only USA manufacturer to have a continuous curve switch at 11.75 inches aswell as a 90 degrees crossing with removable ends.
Tomix embankments are more of a plastic embankment system kit than prefab ones. A box of them, if made one embankment unit high matches the number 4
Tomix bridge pier, stack them two units high and it matches a number 10 pier. Though if you're using them for track, you need to use Tomix Wide Finetrack and I believe that Tomix Bus system road pieces can also be used to top them.
I like the Kato track because of its 7 inch radius when I built my 17x31 inch footlocker layout ==and it worked great
Been using code 55 since it came out. It’s very finicky to work with but looks great. Because the rail height is much lower than code 80, you will find older locomotives and rolling stock wheel flanges will hit and bump along the molded spikes. This track is also getting very expensive. Stick of flex track is $15 for ONE 30” section. Used to be $4. Can’t beat how real it looks.
Yeah, price is getting bananas on track in general. The code 55 does look great!
Thanks Steve for a great article on track. I built a double track Christmas layout using Kate track and loved all the different options available. At the moment I'm building a on30 layout using peco track which I like, if it doesn't hold my attention, I will go back to n scale using kato track!😅
Very valuable video for n-scalers!! I use Kato Unitrack because my layout is relatively small and the most important thing to me is reliability (no derailments and good electrical connection) ... someday if I ever get to build the layout of my dreams I will need to make the tough decision about what track to use because Kato Unitrack on a big layout gets expensive. But I see more and more people using it for big layouts here on CZcams.
Your thinking makes sense to me, thinking about getting into N gauge, this helps.
Great review of the tracks thats easier available in the US. As far as looks go the fleischmann piccolo is a go, however I've gone with the tomix system, no running issues, a truly substantial range (far larger than Katos, but I suppose that's why it's the most popular of the Japanese products).
The tomix with its reduced ballast size does lend itself to ballasting better than the kato. As is obvious, all the ballast base track is limited to set radius curves, but like everything, if that's not a bother they're very reliable.
Good video
I use Kato track because the lengths are easy to work with.
helpful video, thank you!
I'm using a Kato 4 way turnout coupled to Atlas code 80 tracks, the ballast I use is the prefect height so that I didn't have to make any modifications. For my layout, I'm not too worried about sleeper placement or realism. I'm trying to recreate the layout my Dad built in HO scale, when I was a small boy in W. Germany, he even let me help build it, then when finished let me operate it. I was 5 years old at the time. I have limited space so I've gone to N scale.
Arnold still makes it's staggered ends self cleaning rail, best electrical and physical connection of any non roadbed track, however it is expensive unless you buy new old stock power routing turnouts though.
Arnold is all I use for what U stated.I became sick and disgusted with the dead spots ,derailments on turnouts and constant track dirt with margarine colored rails.No more embarrassments in front of guests.
If you're looking for "realistic" then Atlas code 55 is the choice. I had no problems with it, but aging eyes led me to HO scale several years ago. A video featuring my final N-Scale layout done with nothing but Atlas code 55 can be found on my channel.
I found this useful Steve, thank you. I knew the track that came with my (new to me) Lone Star Treble-O-Letric set was Atlas, but I didn't know about code 80 & 55. I believe my set has code 55, but now I know before looking to add on to the set. I don't know if both codes use the same connectors, but if they do I may have a mix & that maybe why I was having power issues on my 1st try. Looks like with this old "OOO" scale, Peco 55 might be the best way to go in the long run.
Great Video, Never used any code 55 track, so the info was useful. I think if I was going to make a permanent Layout I would use that . Today I like layouts that run around the dinning room table. So Kato is great for setting use and taking down.
Thats exactly what it is good for. I use it for the same thing.
My old layout was all micro engineering track with Shinohara turnouts, I loved it but we moved to a new state and the layout didn't. After some years (retired) I got things out and started testing using a loop for Kato Unitrack, and expanded, and expanded. I like it since it can be setup on the carpet and rearranged as desired, however I do notice the noise. In my usual setup I have a long section of elevated track using eight Kato bridges all connected but I had been wanting an arch bridge so I purchased two Tomix and while they don't easily connect to Kato I was able to make a transition and have them as the center pieces of my now eleven foot bridge. Here is what I noticed, the noise level on the Tomix was considerably lower than Kato, and I do mean considerable enough that I purchased a loop of Tomix track to see if it also applied to their track, yes. Now for my dilemma, I have a lot of Unitrack but now really like Tomix which is unfortunately not readily available at any local train stores. PlazaJapan has become my goto source,
Yeah, I’ve never seen tomix at a store, but I have heard a number of people say they like it a lot.
I remember about 25-30 years ago their was this guy who set up a huge train store in Yorba Linda, CA. He must have had some deep pockets because it was very wells stocked
One of the things the owner did to try to get interest, was various Kato N-scale packages were for sale one at a time. I could try out snapping together tracks in various combinations. Very interesting.
I think that store was Milepost 38 Model Trains. They’re still around but are now located in Westminster next to Arnie’s Model Trains. Each store focuses on different scales.
@@andersonkyle I went to Arnies a lot. They had lots of stuff.
very good
I'm planning my first ever layout. I was thinking of using the Kato track simply for the ease of use. That Atlas Code 55 looks sooo good though. It's just that flex track scares me as far as doing curves 🤣
Actually, you will find that flex track makes it easier to make your curves.
Nice video! What is a good "Flex N Scale Track" Thank You Steve! MoPac Jack 🚂
Looks like the rail was coming apart on the Bachman EZ Track. I've always liked using Atlas code 55 Flex Track, less joiners, smooth straight laying and more flexibility in laying corners.
My UK layout has a lot of older locos and rolling stock. I've used Peco code 80 flexi track and points(switches) because of some of the wheel profiles. But I also have a single slip formation, only available in code 55, and all my stock runs through this complex without a problem. The difference in rail heights needs the slip to be packed up by about 1mm with card, that's all.
Paint the rail sides and ballast the track, there's a noticeable improvement in looks and the components in code 80 are cheaper than code 55.
Atlas code 80.
Remote switch Atlas and Bachmann #4 .
Manual switch Atlas and Bachmann #4 .
Manual switch Peco with insulfrog #8 .
Flex tracks code 80 Atlas 30" .
Tracks nails Atlas.
Atlas saw for cut tracks.
Tracks what used in my N scale layout.
Very good review of the differences.
I ended up choosing Peco Code 55 due to the turnout availability. I really like the Unifrog turnouts.
I do also have some Code 80 track on my layout, eg. rerailers in my staging, that are Atlas.
Also, I really like the Peco joiners better than the Atlast joiners. While the Atlas joiners are bigger and contain more metal and the Peco joiners are much smaller and do not hold as well. The Peco joiners just look a lot more realistic than the Atlas joiners (and the shape of how the ties are made at the end of Atlas settrack)
Yep, Peco code 55 is a great choice. I like that track a lot as well.
I also changed to Peco Code 55 a couple of years ago. I started with Atlas but they went through a period where you couldn't buy track or turnouts. I ripped out 100's of dollars of their track and turnouts and sold it on Ebay. Atlas track was so hard to find, I sold all of the track in no time and for retail prices. Best decision I made.
Don't know what a Unifrog turnout is in Peco, I understand Insulfrog (bad choice, and Electrofrog good choice).
Steve, thanks for a very helpful review.
One thing that I disagree with - the Peco code 80 turnouts have good electrical connectivity when new, but as soon as you put them on the layout and they get a little dirty, the connectivity fails. That’s because they depend on contact between the points and the stock rail. I’ve had all kinds of trouble from them. The only solution was to add feeders to all the rails. That means you can’t take advantage of the power routing feature.
Relying on the point rails for electrical contact can be a problem with just about any brand with power routing. On the other hand, I have some HO and N Peco points on a ballasted test track in my shop with painted rails that still works fine after more than 30 years. Of course the better way is to use the appropriate contacts on a switch machine and use that for power routing.
As an aside, Kato turnouts can be set for power routing or for both tracks always on.
If Kato track wasn't so darn ugly it would be nice. I'm an Atlas code 55 supporter. One note about Atlas C55 is the turnouts cause lots of derailments if you dont file the points to a razors edge, the guard rails are also a bit tight on the flangeways so Athearn wheelsets and older Intermountain locos like to jump the frog. I decided to build my own turnouts instead of spending $20 each only to have something that still needs a hour of modification before its fit for running trains.
Interesting nice video 🛤🚂👍🎥.
Greetings from Germany Gert
I picked up someone's old N scale railroad set that appears to have a bunch of Atlas code 80 track along with some very similar looking Bachmann track. I've no idea how old it is, and I've been following model railroads for a while but never had the time or money to get into it. Wondering if it's worth it to keep the Atlas track or to sell it and get something else. For what it's worth, the bag of track and old Bachmann rolling stock was free, and it had the old paper envelopes some of the track came in still in it, 6 sections of 5" straight track for $1.35.
Alas, the locomotive was a dummy, but I suppose that just gives me the opportunity to splurge on that when I get around to it.
Hi Steve, new subscriber, I like your work. To tracks and I am building a big T-TRAK layout with 6 or 7 modules that take up both sides of the table. The T-TRAK Standard requires the KATO track at every joint between two modules, mostly because it is simply the best for electrical connection and resistance to pulling apart. Just cannot be beaten.
Now, with T-TRAK, as long as you comply with the edge interface, the rest of it is up to you. Most of my layout outside of the 1" KATO end pieces will be PECO flex track. The Mainline will be concrete sleepers, and the Branch line will be timber sleepers. The rest of the Branch lines will be flexible Fleischmann Piccolo #9119 Rack Rail as I will have two consists of rack rail locos (#7506 (blue + white) & #7507(red)) climbing up to a middle station and then down the other side. The highest Grade will be about 16 or 17%.
ALL my turnouts will be TOMIX R140mm as they are the only way I can make everything fit into the constraints. I am still working with them to ensure I get the reliability I hope for. Other tracks in the shunt lines on a Wharf will be TOMIX that I can bury nicely under cork and matchsticks. I have a big TOMIX #1247 large R280mm double slip track piece just at the entrance to the Alpine station.
Oh, and all turnouts will be operated by mini RC servos run from programs on Arduino UNO, NANO, and ESP32 chips.
As to the most popular tracks, as far as I have been told by others in Japan - if you judge by Sales across the world TOMIX will probably top all other sales together even though the majority of their Sales are in Japan. Japan is a nation of model railroaders, there are some real fanatics at it. The output of TOMIX Factories is huge compared to the rest of the manufacturers. That's what I have been told. Thus the range of TOMIX tracks available is also very wide. Look at Trainweb and similar sites for good info on track choices.
Lastly, a lot of sales outlets will tell you that KATO is incompatible with TOMIX. Not true, KATO makes their dealers say that. The use of the KATO adaptor piece will help but isn't necessary.
This is what a commenter on Train Board said,
"there is an adapter, but it isn't necessary that you use it. I did use a couple but decided after installing them that putting three layers of card (artists' mounting board) under the Peco track was just as good at balancing the height above the board. I took the Unijoiner off the last Unitrack and used Peco rail joiners on both rails."
Same with TOMIX. You have to make the TOMIX rise by about 1 mm and it will clip on just nicely. Swap out the joiners and maybe make a hole for the TOMIX lug or break it off. Runs well together. Ballasting covers up all of the mixed trackage anyway.
Good luck with your modelling! Enjoying your videos.
Yeah, the Tomix track does look nice. I’ll need to try and get some at some point and try it out. It is true what you say about adapters. They are never really needed as generally all you ever need to do is shun things to get the rail heads even. It is the same if you want to use different code track together. Say you used 80 on the mainline but code 55 on sidings or whatever so it would look more prototypical in terms of having different weight rail. Usually it is always a good idea to solder those rail joints where there is a transition so nothing shifts over time but otherwise just a bit of cardstock is usually all that is needed to get things to line up right.
When you mentioned that the ties on the Bachman and Kato tracks were not prototypical, I finally realized why I never liked the look of those types of track. I have always shied away from the unitrack style since I built my first N scale layout some 30 years ago. It just never looked right to me.
No it doesn’t look nearly as good. I’ve mainly used unitrack in N scale for ease of use/durability with the small portable layouts.
I use the kato #4 turnouts on my layout and their has been a few problems but they still working fine.
They can be super reliable if you work on the ones that cause trouble. You can file the points a bit as well as the main rails so they fit better and usually that makes them more reliable if they cause trouble. It has been hit and miss with those when I’ve used them.
@@StevesTrains yeah for me I don't have that much issue and you know the kato ballast I use it on my layout because I suck at ballasting and kato unitrack has the most realistic molded road bed out there besides making your own road bed.
Micro Engineering all the way... the realism is worth any extra effort. Atlas code 55 won't tolerate many older locos which rules it out for my use.
Hi Steve! This was an excellent review showing the pros and cons between different brands of N scale track. Along with the Atlas track featured, this review would have been more complete if you would have examined the Atlas Code 65 True Track with built-in roadbed similar to Kato Unitrak and Bachmann EZ track. Can you do a future video inspecting its viability? I also prefer Kato Unitrak, but I've often wondered how Atlas True Track compares. I have seen anyone do reviews about True Track yet.
-from Tom Pilling
Someone else mentioned that track as well. I had totally forgotten about it. Maybe I’ll have to try to get some of that track, micro engineering track, and some of the other tracks available in Europe and Asia and do a round 2.
Steve, good video. However I have used bachman ez track for sometime, I have had no issues
It can certainly work fine, especially if you don’t take it apart repeatedly. I’ve seen some great layouts with it that have operated well. There are more track options available in that line now than there used to be so it isn’t as limited as I thought when I first started making the video.
Hand -laid track beats sectional track anyday! Less joints, no limitation on curves, turn-out angles ( more prototypical)
Only downside...more patience, accuracy, and time required ( any Scale).
DocAV
One thing to mention is Atlas code 55 will not couple to Peco code 55 because the Peco code 55 is code 80 with that double flange. I have tried to file the turnouts down to attach Atas track, with poor success.
Ah, good to know!
Kato
Like the review but maybe should have included turnout quality and availability as well. IMHO
Thanks for this video. Mike
Thanks Mike. Yes, I might do that sometime down the road. I just don’t have enough experience with all the different turnouts. I’ve used Peco turnouts and atlas code 80 turnouts but not their code 55 ones. I mentioned that Kato turnouts are good except the #4s are finicky. I know you have a video on how to fix those. Feel free to post a link to that video here in a comment and I can pin it so others can refer to it if they need help with those.
@@StevesTrains Thanks Steve , I will not clutter your channel.
Mike
I think if your ambition is to build a large layout on the cheap, and to progress quickly, Atlas code 80 is superior to code 55, and more widely available than Peco code 80.
Part of building on a limited budget is to buy cheaper, old, used freight/passenger cars and the wheel flanges on older equipment are mainly too deep to run on code 55 track. This goes for the wheel flanges on older model locomotives, also.
Hi Steve! Love your videos! I’m a beginner to model railroading, so your videos have been incredibly helpful. I do have a quick question for you, if you don’t mind me asking:
I’m interested in making an N scale suitcase set. Given the size constraints, I would like to create a simple oval layout with a tight curve radius so I can conserve space along the outer rim of the tracks for other elements. Which type of N scale tracks would you recommend for that?
It is easier to use sectional track when you have tight curves in terms of keeping a consistent radius but of course flex track will allow you to fit your space best. I would go with Peco code 80 or code 55 since it is very robust and you are less likely to pop the rail off the ties than with the atlas code 55 track if trying to bend flex track to a tight radius. Kato track is always a great option and may have more options in terms of different fixed curve radius options.
@@StevesTrains Thank you so much for taking the time to respond back to my comment and helping me come to an informed decision in light of my layout needs. You've been helpful as always!
Don't Peco do a starter set for N scale? A loop with a turnout/siding
They have it in a couple of different radius curves . But honestly bang for buck flex track is really cheap if you have some distance to go.
However great video very informative.
Yeah, flex is cheaper and more “flexible” in terms of layout design for sure. I remember seeing Peco starter track sets in the past. Not sure if those are still made or not.
@@StevesTrains still made in HO and N. Atlas of course do the same. As do Kato for that matter. :)
I like PECO Code 55, but how many times have modelers had the rail joiners go into their fingers and thumbs. Ouch! Those things are sharp!
Yes! Everyone has done that I think. When they slide right under your finger nail is the best.
Hi Steve, i have to add something to your comments about the turnouts.. when i first got into the hobby i purchased the Bachmann CSX starter kit and went from there.. The turnouts for Bachmann are a joke, they would derail to no end.. in a little test i purchased the kato set M2. comes with some turnouts and nice loop. i was curious why there was such an issue with the bachmann turnouts. so, i did the flick test on them.. the bachmann had very little resistance. the kato was way more rigid. So, then i had the idea to blow on the 2 turnouts.. you know.. the kato stayed put.. the bachmann opened right up.. so, the spring used in the the 2 types are way different and that's where the issues laid..
Good information. Yes, having the points stay tight against the stock rails is pretty much the key to smooth operation over them.
I can't imagine using the #6 turnout. Having non power routing in the #4s so incredibly useful.
It is, but those #4s can be finicky and I don’t want to have to spend time fiddling with them.
@@StevesTrains I also use #4s to get DCC control to my entire layout without needing to do extra wiring.
My experience is all with Peco and Atlas code 80. The flex track works with either one. I have no issues with track height differences between Peco turnouts and Atlas flex track connections. and to be honest I can't even detect a difference when running my finger over a joint.
The biggest issue is with turnouts. Appearance doesn't matter to me. Paint the ties and the rail sides and add some ballast and the track is going to look pretty good. I have not had any issues with Peco turnouts at all. Atlas turnouts seem to have a clearance issue with some locos and truck length on locos. I have 2 steamers, Kato's first run of it's 2-8-0 and a Model Power 2-8-2. Both of them can bog down when going through the curved portion of a Atlas #6 turnout. The same goes for a 6 wheel truck of a more modern loco. My solution is to swap out the Atlas turnouts for Pecos.
I am not sure how old my turnouts are and a new one may have better performance.
Thanks for do the review Steve
Yeah, I always lean towards ease of use and reliability over appearance. With my atlas code 80 and Peco code 80 turnouts there was a slight height difference, but it was the sectional track not flex. It wasn’t much and maybe isnt there at all with the flex track. Good to know that in general they seem to be interchangeable.
Good question.. However since 1977 I run Minitrix... Key over such long time (I rebuild my complete system yet) is long term, aviability.. From that point it is simply thu and thru proven. with old Roco (yet Fleischmann ohn bettung) as 1:1 copy. alternative .. Other tracks are not bad. I got no reason to doubt or concern. My choise is Minitrix, from this simple poont of view. even when Marklin / Minitrix stop right now; there is that much the second hand marked delivers enough. Get I rebuild since 2020.. and that "eats" rails. Practical Arnold is hard to get (was not in the 80s) Peco is great. Rivarossi Atlas? great rails fully gone.. The only factor I see constant for decades is Fleischmann , with ballast.
I use Atlas code 80 flex with peco turnouts.
That is a solid combination!
The Bachmann E-Z track is the only thing I can buy locally (hobby lobby..) anything else I have to order online or drive to Louisiana or Alabama (those are where the 2 closest train shops are to me)
Yeah, often that is the only option. It can still work fine, it just doesn’t stand up to as much repeated use as Kato and the like. But if you are careful with it then you can still have success with it. I built a project with it once a long time ago.
@StevesTrains thanks. I'm actually just trying to get started slowly. I have a pretty paycheck coming up and I'm going to be buying some things to really get started with it.
Could you use Peco switches with Kato Unitrack with traditional cork roadbed for the switch?
Sure, I’ve seen people do that. You just have to remove the unijoiners on the adjoining Kato track and then use regular rail joiners. You may need to file the joints a bit depending on how things line up, but it should work in theory.
The Bachmann is problematic, haven't used Kato but that is my next focus in N Gauge.
The things I hate most about the Bachmann are how fragile the connecting tabs are (and they're pretty much garbage when those break), and how painfully obvious the joints look (they didn't even try to make them blend in)
Apparently peco is coming out with a line of true c55 american prototype track, so tighter finer tie spacing.
Nice!
Going to vent a little here. If you are building a layout that is more than just a toy, Kato and Bachmann are out. Here's why: 1) Try to add easements to curves, 2), Try to add superelevation to curves, doable but problematic, 3) The ties are embedded in the fake roadbed, so if you want to add ballast to make the track look better, good luck. I have seen it done, but with all the other problems meh. I am building a layout that will be large if I live long enough. I am using Peco code 55. Their largest turnouts are all that will appear on the main. The medium turnouts (such as seen in this video) will be used in yards and such. With flex track you can do just about anything. One deviation for me is I plan to use Kato Warren bridges in one spot, so I have to figure out how to make the entry and exit look good. Bottom line, set up an oval of UniTrak, and run a train around it. In the curves it looks like S___. I have a bunch of UniTrak, but only use it for setting up test tracks and such. The turnouts look like crap as well. I could go on.
That being said, this video is actually really good. There is probably nothing said that I disagree with, except using Kato.
Peco code 55 is the best track without roadbed I think in N scale when you factor in the durability and variety of turnouts, etc.
@@StevesTrains I am not particularly familiar with Atlas track, but I vaguely remember years ago that their turnouts were not spring loaded, so a switch machine would be necessary to hold them in place. Again, that is a memory and not necessarily fact. I have absolutely no experience with ME track. I do think Atlas track looks better. If I were to use sectional track with roadbed, I would use Bachmann, because it would be easy to ballast. I don't care about their joiners, as I always have power fed to each individual track piece.
I have to whole heartily agree with you on Peco code 55. Built a substantial layout using it and it looks and works great. Peco also have double crossovers which work great on the mainlines and have three-way points which are perfect for yards as they take up much less room. Went to the trouble of soldering (with a D) all the joints, well worth the extra effort. It is a DCC layout with plenty of droppers installed. Went with the electro frog versions with Tam Valley Railway frog juicers. Have used three Kato steel truss bridges and they connect flawlessly to the Peco code 55 track.
@@Ray-dv1md I don't understand how anyone can use, say Kato, if they are serious at all. I am not a rivet counter by any means, but I look at track that is ballasted, super elevated, with easements, and only wonder why anyone would not want their track to look like that. Watch a train going through such track and it is beautiful.
Best lay off the drugs man. Where did I say I used Kato track.@@jimbelcher6877
Maybe Fine Track is better than Unitrack
Most Japanese people use Fine Track with Takara Tomy
Good review.
Wondering about HO scale? I model in Kato HO and in my opinion, the choices are more limited than N scale sadly. I think Kato is missing an opportunity. Have heard there is some kind of Kato 'flex track" out there somewhere but not found it. As for switch controls, I prefer non-powered switches. Kato controls are far too clunky for my taste.
You can convert the turnouts to use other kinds of controls. I converted mine from 12v DC two wire to 16v AC three wire Fleischmann switches.
Yes, HO unitrack is more limited for sure. The Kato switch controls are big and clunky. In control mine push buttons connected to dcc controllers like the digitrax ds74 units. You hook the turnout motors to that unit (each one can control 4) and then if you hook that up to your dcc system you can control them with your hand controller. That is clunky too so they give you the option to hook up a push button. One push button per turnout. Each push of the button flips the turnout from one direction to the other so it works pretty nice.
@@StevesTrains - have you done a video on that? Would like to see it if you did.
No, not so far. I can do one sometime in the future.
You can operate Kato's turnouts with a pair of double pole push buttons or a mini DPDT momentary centre off toggle switch.
Yes, Kato's lever controls are huge and clunky, but they are great for the temporary "plug & play" type layouts that many in Japan set up on the tables and floors of their tiny apartments.
Something to be aware of with Micro Engineering switches - the originals were NOT DCC friendly and were the old power routing style. This mean feeders from the point end only and lots of use of insulating joiners. My N scale is all ME code 55 old style turnouts - then again I don't run DCC.
Wasn't the original Atlas code 55 track just their code 80 sunk into the ties?
Thanks for the notes on the ME track. I’m not sure about the original Atlas code 55 since when it first came out I was only doing HO scale.
Any opinion of Roco/Fleischmann/MiniTrix? (Basically all the same
No, I’ve never seen it locally here. I’ll have to try and find a place to order some eventually to have a look at it.
Wondering can you use atlas code 80 track with peco code 80 turn outs?
You can, but there is a slight difference in track height so you have to shim up the track slightly on the atlas side (or maybe it is the other way around. The rail height is the same, but the ties are slightly different thicknesses. It isn’t much difference but enough of one you will want to add a thin piece of card stock or something to even the rail heights up. Just soldering the connection might be enough to keep things even.
Minitrix and fleischmann Piccolo are missing from this video.
On a side note, how good is Atlas track code 55 in terms of reliability and durability? I am planning to use mainly Fleischmann locos and rolling stock in DCC.
Atlas code 55 is less durable for sure than others because of the very fine model spikes used to secure the rail. So, it looks fantastic, but you can damage the track far easier than with other. Not so much of an issue once installed, but the turnouts are more delicate than others too for the same reason so you have to take more care when cleaning them. It can perform well, but it isn’t like a lot of code 80 track where you can run over it with your car, jump on it, hit it with a hammer and it is still fine. Lol.
@@StevesTrains Ordered a small batch of Atlas 55 and a turnout in order to test them... I think I would definitely stick with the Fleischman Piccolo track from now on... Atlas track looks a little bit better on paper, but it is too fragile and most locos are kinda fussy about the turnout and track work when using Atlas 55. Never had this problems with Fleischmann Piccolo track or Kato track.
want to use kato,...but..when building custom and need long runs, flex seems waaaay easier. Isnt kato only small pieces you have to buy and MAKE a long run? Plus if its got a odd curve or twist it seems easier with flex. Remember,...flex has been a standard, its not junk. Not crazy about plastic attached road bed either. You end up trying to cover that as well as ballast on Atlas. Kato is easy, The others require more work but look better.
Right, I’ve mostly used flex track in HO and I’ve done layouts in N scale with flex too. Kato has so many track options that it gets you up and running quickly and reliably. If not using Kato I like Peco code 55 the best. Atlas looks better (as do some others) but the Peco track is pretty durable and hard to break.
I think track with ballast is great so you can add real ballast and so you can add real ballast into the track with fake ballast because you know the height and how many you need
Hi, I wondered if you have noticed any differences in conductivity between the different track types? For example how large of a loop can you make that will run well with only one power supply point for each of the examples?
I used to use that mindset (how much can I run with only one connection) but later found it better to just learn the basic wiring. Its known brass is not a good conductor so just run a bus around your layout and power every 3-6 ft
All conductance be it wire,rails,etc will be subject to what is known as voltage drop,like how the pipes need to fill up for water to come out.anthonym744 is right.
Different strokes different Folks and Designs on their Track Plan.
I'm personally of the opinion that Code 80 in general is by far the better choice unless you're superdetailing and aren't that concerned with reliable running. N scale has come a long way but it can still be kinda fiddly, so if you're making a layout for operations or that multiple people are going to run on with a wide variety of equipment (like a club layout) you want to make your trackwork as forgiving as possible.
Yeah, that is a big advantage.
Nah, code 55 looks so much better.
Go ahead and enjoy your derailments, then.
Kato unitrack is a trade off. Whilst its not the most realistic track, it is very functional, and if you are compelled to have your point motors above the baseboard, if, for instance you have used mdf, unitrack is a perfect solution with the motors being in the base of the point. I would not like to try digging holes in 12mm mdf to accomodate underboard point motors. What about comparing other track options. Fleischmann piccolo (an excellent system),
minitrix or roco?
Yes, I need to try to obtain some of that track. It is harder to find here, so I’ll probably have to order some from overseas retailers that will ship internationally. I’ll add that to my upcoming video projects list.
Fleischmann used to be common here in the uk, but now its tricky to find. Kato and Peco dominate
these days.
Say, didn't Atlas make a roadbed track at one time? Since you didn't mention it, I assume they don't?
They still make it. There is less selection though than with other roadbed track types so it isn’t as flexible for more complex layout design.
I do Understand people are Different Bachman And Kato do Somewhat have The Same size and Lenght My Wife And I are In N Scale I Run Bachmann And Ever Since I have Run Bachmann I Never had a Problem And As For My Wife With her Layout she Has Bachmann And Kato As Well I have To Get some Kato track for Her otherwise with Our N Scale Track we Never Have Any Problem . I Have Noticed One Thing we Have a 4 seasons Room and There Is A Difference all for Weatherwise when It Get’s Cold Kato Dose Not Bow Up Like Bachmann When It Gets Teribly Cold Bachmann Will Bow Up And Kato Will stay Flat when Cold.
Unless you want to do it custom.
What about Minitrix N Scale Tracks?
I need to find some of that track eventually and try it out.
Tomix plain track looks nicer. The rail joiners aren't so reliable. Tomix turnouts are awful. They aren't very well made, which leads to lots of derailments, and also means that the rails of the different parts are of different heights which lifts the wheels off the track causing locos to stall.
Fleischmann plain track looks better than both Kato and Tomix track. It is made from a more flexible material the simulated ballast is finer. The big problem with it is the ugly turnout motors. The turnout geometry is also limited.
Minitrix turnouts also suffer from the ugly turnout motors, but there is a bigger range of radii.
I use a mixture of Kato and Minitrix turnouts on my layout. I have to use Minitrix because of limited space.
I tried Tomix turnouts, but found the problems detailed above.
You may see that Kato have a conversion track piece to connect to other makes of track. This only refers to Tomix track where the rail joiners are on opposite sides. For any other type of code 80 track, just remove the Unijoiners.
Kato also have an expansion track piece, which is very useful for when you need an odd length piece of track.
I have some Bachmann EZ-Track that came with a train set. It's still sitting in the train set box because it looks awful.
Great information! I’ve seen those other track types in videos but not in person and haven’t really heard anything about the turnouts before except the looks as you mentioned.
@@StevesTrains I've had no issues with the tomix turnouts and double slips, finding the system superb, especially with their switchable power routing or not. I run both the standard radius turnouts and also their 140mm radius (5.5") turnouts and again, no issues, even running 6 coupled steam locos. I guess it's just different experiences
@@muir8009 Everything I could dig up seemed to praise Tomix track, and those PL541's don't look terrible. Mike Fifer seemed to like them as well, but I don't think he has actually used them on a layout. Thanks for the input.
Comes down to looks compared to reliability.Depends on what the circumstances, but to me reliability comes first.Where looks matter,to be careful when the train goes over it.Just saying.
disappointed in not seeing atlas code 55 turnouts
I'm assuming you can't intermix different track brands even if they are the same scale?
You can in some cases without much issue. If the rail is the same height you can pretty easily. The ones with roadbed are harder. You still can but sometimes have to make a transition since things won’t always line up right.
Not in Europe. We use Fleismann and Roco
Right, but hard to find any of that over here to take a look at.
Tomix finetrack and fleischmann profi track look better than unitrack Fleischmann is expensive but tomix is cheaper and looks almost the same
Yeah, I would like to get some tomix track. I’ve seen videos of it but have never seen it in person.
What about Atlas Code 65 Tru Track? I have used that and have had success with it. I will say that it's connections don't seem to be as tight and snug as Atlas Code 55 track.
Good point on the tru track. I had totally forgotten about that one!
The #5 Atlas C65 turnouts were not available when I built my layout (2021), so I went with Atlas C55. It's delicate and has it's flaws, but worth it in my opinion. Powered frogs rule.
DOES KATO HAVE FLEX TRACK??
Not that I have seen, but they do have adjustable length pieces (pretty cool). Between all of the different size curves you should be able to replicate most track plans.
I think they have a Kato branded flex track but it is just regular flex track, and they are just reselling sometime like Peco flex track or something like that. It isn’t anything with molded on roadbed. It is easy to work any design without it given the wide variety of pieces available. If needed, you can always cut unitrack down to size or even make a bunch of cuts with a razor saw in the roadbed (from the bottom) to allow you to bend the piece. If you cut a piece of unitrack to make a custom length piece, what you want to do is cut out a section of the middle, and the slide the two ends together and then nip off the excess rail. This way you can still connect the piece using unijoiners.
They have but its just an improved rebranded atlas flex, i still have the non roadbed kato track its just a rebranded atlas sectional track still code but comparing it to a tomix, its much better in terms of looks at reliability
At the Hobby Shop I hung out at everyday and even acted like a employee, He sold More Regular Atlas Track because it was Cheaper to Buy It even with Cork Track Bed, Ballast and Glue/Nails than just to Buy ( Insert Brand here ) Track with All that ( in plastic form ) is already attached... ( At the time ) Buy 6 Atlas Straight Track and everything needed to put on the lay out was $3-8 Less than buying.. Bachmann Ez-Crap.. I mean Ez-Track... and Kato Track... Specially if you got Flex Track. 3 Feet for $4-6 that Now costs around and over $10 each... and Bachmann's 3ft NOT Flexible Ez-Crap... I mean Ez-Track was $20 for One....
BUT Now A Days, Even Atlas Normal Track has more than Doubled in Prices... Don't get me started on Turnout Pricing... That Shit can get EXPENSIVE!
Bachmann Ez-Crap.... I mean Ez-Track, the Store had a Window layout using it. over 60ft of track, Dog-bone. Soo Many Gaps in the Track/Rails at the joints, Not counting the ones between the plastic itself.... So we took the time to Close the Gaps. By the time we were done, we had About a 6 inch Gap... So we Ungapped it all and left the gaps.. Up To 1/8in... Then it Wrapped and Faded in the Sun.
Yep, all track is way more expensive now that a decade or so ago. I don’t know that it is out of line with everything else, however. I’ll need to do some data analytics at some point on that to see if it is or not.
these trains were reasonable when I was a kid not n scale cost way too much to be any fun.
That is largely why I started doing CZcams, to pay for the hobby.
Well that was a waste of time - nice pictures of your hand but I wanted to see which track to buy.
Backmann has just as much options in unitrack as Kato you just have to look for it Also if you pull the unitrack apart STRAIGHT and NOT BEND it APART it Will Last A Lot Longer pls Model Trains aren’t Toys they’re MODELS, handling With CARE Is ADVISED!!
Kato has a long A. Please pronounce it correctly. Came straight from a manufacturer's video.
Ha, yeah they told me it was a short a, so I don’t know anymore. I used to say it with a long A but then was corrected and so now use the short a pronunciation. I guess I will need to reach back out to them.
No, it’s pronounced like “awe”.
@@stevetee5076 Yes, you are correct: it is KAW toe! If anyone insists - or some ill-informed person tells you it is KAY toe - they don't know Japanese. To write KAY toe properly in Japanese Romanji spelling it would be written keito. And, for fun, try looking up keito in your search engine. You'll see that there actually is a Keito Japanese pop star!
The model ralway manufacturer is KAW toe! Never KAY toe - or, even worse, CAT toe, which I've heard a few times!
Kato Unitrack. 100%. Everything else is junk.
I like bachman just for start and im not switching bc i dont wanna try confusing myself
@@newfoundstarland3755it’s worth the change
Bachmann and Kato have both treated me well and yes, you can connect them, you just cut the tab off the ez track and use atlas code 80 joiners. I also don’t keep putting it together and taking it apart. If I were starting out again, I’d probably buy kato for the same reasons you mentioned, primarily the wider assortment. Great video
Peco flex is what I used back when.
Flex track mixed with Kato is life.
Why dont you have straight peco track?
I couldn’t get any in time for the video (trying to publish every Tuesday morning)
@@StevesTrains Oh i see, thanks for replying.
@@StevesTrains Steve, is there any way i can find free BASIC trackplans for peco code 80 track? or do most track plans have mix matching brands. You are intelligent please help. All i want to do is start buying track based off a basic small scale n gauge layout..
@@frankbean7823 most things I found were books or pdf files you had to buy, but this site sells track packs for entire layouts. What is nice is that you can click on each track plan and see it larger and it has all the part numbers: www.osbornsmodels.com/new-setrack-plans-track-packages-in-a-box-394-c.asp
You can mix Peco track with other brands. It is easier if you stick to code 80 or mix atlas code 80 with Peco code 55. It is harder to use Peco code 55 or code 80 with atlas code 55. Even when mixing Peco code 80 and atlas code 80 you may have to shim the track where you join the two sections. While the rails are the same size, the plastic ties will be slightly different thicknesses. So you may have to slide a thin piece of cardboard under one side or the other to keep things even at the rail joint or just solder that connection with the rail even.
@@StevesTrains Thanks heaps for that, sorry couldn't reply earlier.