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- čas přidán 27. 11. 2018
- Properly mixing and pouring Bar Top Epoxy is crucial to a successful project. Incorrectly measuring, mixing, or pouring can lead to a project that does not cure correctly.
Today epoxycountertopdiy.com/ demonstrates how to properly measure, mix and pour bar top epoxy on a sample piece of material. It is highly recommended to test a sample area or sample piece to familiarize oneself with how epoxy will react to a particular surface. In this example we use a piece of scrap cedar to test Promise Table Top Epoxy. This is the same wood used on a cedar bar top as demonstrated in the video.
Reading the directions fully is imperative to a proper mix ratio & pour. Most table top epoxies require minimum temperatures. In this example, the epoxy resin requires a minimum of 70° with the optimal temperature 75°. Pouring in a dust-free, low humidity environment will insure a project that is not comprised by external. The Promise Table Top Epoxy Kit is a 1:1 mix ration by volume. This was easily measured out in a graduated container.
Pouring a seal coat is highly advised in order to reduce bubbles. By pouring a very thin seal coat, bubbles are allowed to rise to the surface and ultimately escape. Using a torch or heat gun to disrupt the surface tension of the epoxy allows bubbles to release easier.
After 4 hours, the seal coat had cured enough to pour a flood coat. In the flood coat we allowed the epoxy to run off the sides of the project. See the difference before & after of the epoxy.
Incredible Solutions Review (same product, with the new name Promise) : epoxycountertopdiy.com/incredible-solutions-bar-table-top-review/
Epoxy Used: amzn.to/41Xn8SV
Graduated Containers: amzn.to/3Wxkwdq
Video By: epoxycountertopdiy.com/
Clear, direct, and simply extrained video. It will be very helpful in my projects!
Thanks!
Great tutorial, thanks for the explanation about useing heat!
This was a really well done video. Great job.
Great tutorial, Thank you for sharing. I am just starting to experimenting with resin and it's so much fun.
Awesome! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the extra ideas.. Im currently working with Epoxy as well... thanks
I followed your directions and even picked up on the fact that you used a sanding sealer for cedar in another video. I used one prior to applying the epoxy to my coffee bar (almost no air bubbles to deal with) and it turned our beautiful. I posted pictures with my product review on Amazon. Thanks for the advice for my first pour.
Dwayne, Awesome! Thank you.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
I happened to purchase this brand of epoxy for my kitchen counter transformation and with your instructions I had zero problems with drying and the product is perfectly clear. Thank you so much for your videos.
Awesome to hear! Thank you for sharing. If you can, drop a review on Amazon.
Epoxy DIY Will do!
Thank you so much for this video. If I wait more than 4 hours between the sealcoat and flood code, is that okay?
Excellent tutorial, thanks
Thanks!
Great video! Appreciate it!
Thank you!
Hi ! I’m trying to do a live edge charcuterie and cutting board. Both rounds have bark still attached which I would like to keep. They also both have cracks. What is a good food safe brand I can use to fill the cracks and put on the bark for extra hold? Or is there a better way to deal with the cracks that’s food safe? Thank you, looking forward to your response!
This is a great video, very easy to understand! I hope you can help me, though. We are doing a 6' pine table for outdoors, using Epoxy Resin and then exterior varnish (a lot of coats). However, my husband applied oil based stain to the bottom to test the color of the pine. I read comments below that you can't use oil based stain. What could I put on top of the stain to be able to use the epoxy? Second, have you ever done the exterior varnish on top of resin, and do you recommend it? Lastly, (sorry!), given our project, do you have a recommendation for the product to use? THANK YOU!!!!
Do you have a demo of you doing the flood coat? I'm struggling on how to properly and evenly cover the sides.
Thanks much for simply showing the use of the heat gun; it's what I have, but don't usually see that for epoxy
Really you only need to break the surface tension to release the bubble.
Awesome!
Is the Flood coat mixed just as the Seal coat? Same 1:1 ratio, mixing time and everything?
Thanks !
One could become an expert on anything by reading the instructions.
Gonna pore epoxy for the first time over a charred counter top, any recommendation of specific epoxy for it?
Great video. In some comments I notice you state that epoxy
should not be poured over table with oil based stain. The table I am going to epoxy does have an oil based stain already. Is there a good way to prep this table to take an epoxy pour ? Thank you.
Thinking of using for the first time an epoxy resin to my garage countertops, yes I will be using new sheeting, What I am wondering is colour, can epoxy resin be used on top of a “wood stained” surface or can I buy a wood coloured look pigment ? Basically I am looking to add the colour or splash of colour to match that of my cupboards trim which is ( espresso) the panels of my cupboard doors are birch which will be the same as my new bench top, but I would like to add a swirl of espresso to my bench top before the pour. Thanks and I hope you can understand the jest of my question. Cheers and thanks for the great video.
I’m using some leftover vinyl plank flooring to make a small kitchen table. Is it possible to pour the epoxy over the vinyl successfully?
Before starting on the epoxy coating to our 8" (W) x 70' (L), I researched the heck out of instructional videos; that makes me an expert reviewer! YOURS IS THE VERY BEST! (gloved!) hands-down, the best. Now, wish me luck!
great stuff ,
Thanks Drew!
Great video man I want to start learning how to pour epoxy cause you can style it anyway and this helped alot
Awesome to hear! Thanks for watching. Good Luck on your projects.
Looks like you're pouring on your countertop, did you just let the excess drip off onto it? How did you clean up afterwards?
Thank you for the video and for answering questions!
Can you pour this over a clear acrylic sheet that covers the table? We have various items underneath the sheet.
If I planning to epoxy over beer caps for my bar table, how long between coats to get the right thickness?
i messed up my initial seal coat had to sand till bubles wer down then put the flood on and it was nice... i didnt add a third layer but over all im happy with my first table top with epoxy
Awesome to hear! Thanks for sharing
Will this product fill voids, knots and cracks? How deep of a voids is fillable?
I applied some epoxy to a piece of olive wood recently. I mixed it all correctly according to the ratios however I have found that in some small areas (mainly on the sides) the epoxy is still tacky. It's fully cured on top so I'm confused as to why only certain areas would be tacky?
Thanks for this video though!
great video. If a piece of wood has been sealed with a sanding sealer or shellac, does that have to be removed to can you apply the resin over it?
That depends on what type of sealer you use and also the type of epoxy you use. Each is slightly different. However, most epoxies require that you DO NOT use an oil based stain/sealer. I hope that helps!
Is it possible to pour this epoxy over a board painted with a gloss enamel black paint?
I wish I would have moved faster + finished my door/dining table indoors during the warm summer months. The procrastination has been okay as I've learned some important steps here. Gardening folks also use a blow torch to kill weeds. I'm in!
It is definitely easier to address your questions prior to the pour! Much easier to get it right the first time rather than come back and fix.
I am going to clear coat a cross section piece of oak that i have inlaid a checker board in. I am confused by something. How do you handle the edges during the flood coat and what does the bottom look like and what do you do to make it smooth? thanks
Hey Wes, this really depends on the look you're going for. You could tape off the edges to prevent the overflow. However, most (and probably easier) will allow the epoxy to flow over the edges of the project. As the epoxy gels you can knock down the drip marks. Alternatively, you can wait until the epoxy has cured and sand the drip marks down. Of course, you'll need something to catch the overflow. Please let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks!
Is there an algorithm for determining how much epoxy is used per square inch/ft of counter top?
@Epoxy DIY: I've read when staining a wood countertop, it is highly recommended to "seal" the bottom surface - usually done first and then flipped over. The reason is to prevent cracking of the wood over time.
Should we plan on sealing the bottom of the counter top with this epoxy? Especially if it's wood?
Last question: how do you clean up the "poor over" sides? Seems like a lot of dripping to clean up.
You did not mention how to finish the bottom of the edges where it dripped. How do we fix that part of the icicles hanging down? Thanks
Those can be sanded down. An aggressive grit will take them right off.
looking at using the East Coast Resins, crystal clear epoxy that I have purchased for a table top. have you, or anyone out there used this product and is there any specific information I should know about the product before I get started (process, hazard precautions, etc..). the research on the product, has a lot of good reviews however the company has limited info into the product (basic website). starting to second guess my choice in using this product..... thoughts?
I'm going to try to make an outdoor table top out of Oriented Strand Board and then put epoxy on top. How should I prepare the OSB before I put on the first sealer coat? And on the flood, did you just let it self-level or did you spread the flood coat and just not show that process?
OSB is VERY porous so be prepared for bubbles. Pouring a very thin seal coat is the best way to combat the bubbles. After pouring a very thin seal coat, use a heat gun or torch to eliminate the bubbles that do come up. Keep the heat source far enough away or that OSB can heat up and release even more bubbles. You can use a foam brush or a plastic edge to help move the epoxy about the project. Most epoxies will self level, but spreading it around helps to ensure uniform coverage. What type of epoxy will you be using?
Great video and thanks for sharing. We made a living room end table with a black epoxy river and we trying to decide on the final finish. If we decide to use the seal coat and flood coat as our finish, we will have to lightly sand the black epoxy. Will my sand marks show through a clear epoxy seal coat and the flood coat?
My other question is would you use epoxy to finish the living room end table. We want the final finish to be strong, not easily scratched and won't leave watermarks. Should I be using some kind of wax finish instead? What do you recommend?
What type of epoxy did you use? Depending on what you used, normally, I would say yes, sand before applying the flood coat. The epoxy should fill in sand marks, but you'll want to thoroughly clean before applying the epoxy.
What is the construction of the end table?
i hope im not too late to get a response here. my son has asked me to seal and protect an expensive table with table/countertop epoxy. this was a great video but i do have one question. i have seen other tutorials where the presenter sands with a 220 grit inbetween the seal coat and the flood coat. is there wisdom in this? are there any specific situations where i should sand inbetween?
Hi, I have one question, when you mixed the epoxy that u used for first basic layer, did you leave the same remaining mixture waiting 4 hours in small bucket, and re-use it later for second layer, or did you made a new mixture for second layer ? Because i dont know what will happen to my remaining epoxy mixture when i apply only the basic layer. Should i throw it away, does it harden in next 4 hours and i have to make new mixture, i cant find the answer anywhere on internet.
No, this will require a new batch of epoxy. The epoxy left behind would have hardened by this point. You can not leave mixed epoxy in a container beyond 5 minutes or it will heat up and result in an accelerated reaction.
I am using the same epoxy used in this video, is it necessary to stir the compounds separate then in another container mix again?
The two parts are not to be mixed separately, but rather mixed together at a 1:1 ratio by volume. We suggest mixing and then pouring into a new container and mixing for an additional 3 minutes to be certain the epoxy is fully mixed. Incorrect ratios or incomplete mixing are the most common causes of issues with curing epoxy.
Really nice video , good quality content. Except their were a few nuggets that weren't highlighted enough.
Letting seal coat go tacky.
Contamination in air
Contamination in mixing pot
Pour thickness.
This resin stuff is awsome and when you know how to handle it easy to work with, get it wrong and prepare to stsrt digging deep into your wallet!
Thanks for uploading , look forward to seeing more of your projects.
Thanks for the additions! Will include in next video.
Can you use another sponge brush for the flood coat? Mine was not even the first pour and i want to do it within the 4-6 hours window to avoid sanding.
You can, but many epoxies like this are self leveling. Therefore, the epoxy is still going to flow, even after being brushed/squeegee'd.
I'm going to epoxy over analine dyed maple countertop, not crazy about the high gloss. Is there a way to matte or satin the finish without it just being hazy? Also the countertop near the kitchen window, is there a uv block additive so it doesn't yellow over time?
You can sand with a very fine grit 2000-3000. Do not use anything lower (more coarse) than 2000 grit.
Hi There! I recently 'finished' a job that looks pretty good, but I noticed the epoxy tabletop surface is slightly off-level. The tabletop has been cured for a little over a week and generally looks good. Is it possible/worth the effort to pour a top coat to level it off? And how should I go about doing that?
Yes, you can, but as you alluded, this can be a bit of work. Is the project itself level?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge - very informative. I have a question please. Did you use the same batch of epoxy mix for the flood coat as you used for the seal coat? I was wondering about this as you mentioned you need to wait for 4 hours. We are undertaking a refurbishment to our bar top in the pub we run (here in the UK) and it will be the first time either of us have used epoxy, therefore, will definitely do a test piece as you suggested. We will be staining the wood we purchased first then applying epoxy over the stain. Would welcome any advice you have. Cheers, Mrs Jay Topham
No, you cannot let mixed epoxy sit in a container. If left in a container, mixed epoxy will overheat due to an accelerated reaction. Be sure to research what type of epoxy you are using... most epoxy cannot be put over an oil based stain. You'll probably want to use something water-based.
Oh man! Glad I read this comment!
Glad we could help!
Very helpful. I want to do a mahogany countertop, so I'm wondering how to deal with the edges on the underside: How to adequately coat the underside edges and how to minimize dripping along the bottom edges. Do I sand those down, or how do I deal with them?
As the epoxy is beginning to gel you can use a paint stick or something similar to knock those drip-marks off. Alternatively, you can sand them down after they have cured.
@@epoxydiy6356 Bless you. xD
Would I be able to use on a clean wood bar top that has hundreds of pennies placed on it ? Thanks for a great video.
Epoxy can be used to embed items like pennies. However, you might want to make sure that the pennies are very clean. Pennies are notoriously very dirty and can hold oil, grit, grime, etc.
Goods experience epoxy work
For filling cracks and small voids in wood, is your epoxy ok to thicken with cabosil?
Each epoxy is different. With this particular epoxy you could, but there is a chance the epoxy will become opaque. Also, this epoxy can only be poured 1/4" at a time.
Have u done it on osb
Thanks 👍🏼
Thanks for watching.
Considering the fact that I forgot my torch 😏 I thought I had it
But it turned out pretty good for my first time ever. Again thanks
nice
Thank you!
Can this be applied to a full bullnosed edge? If so, what steps do I need to take?
Kevin, It depends, what type of epoxy will you be using? Many coating epoxies will level at 1/32" on vertical surfaces whereas horizontal levels at 1/8". Therefore, building up the vertical surfaces first is necessary for a uniform coat across the horizontal/vertical surfaces.
Hi sorry if this has already been answered. First off, great video! Second for the flood coat I noticed you pour everywhere in much larger quantities, don't seem to spread with a tool and don't seem to heat it up. Is that correct? Goal is to let the epoxy 'flood' and dry on its own and should come out clear / smooth on its own?
You can help the epoxy with a foam brush, squeegee, or gloved hand. It will help to speed up the self leveling. It depends on the epoxy but most coating epoxies (Table Top & Bar Top Epoxy) require thin pours of no more than 1/4" per applications
Great video, not sure if this question was asked but can you do this application over a piece of wood that already has a polyurethane finish already applied. Thanks for videos great help.
John, assuming that it is water based, it should be fine. If the poly leaves a shine/gloss, you may want to scuff the surface with 320 grit to ensure the epoxy properly sticks.
Trying to figure out why you would need to pour into a second new container to finish mixing when you just mixed your epoxy in a new container.
This helps to ensure a full mixture. Incomplete mixing is one of the leading causes of problems with curing epoxy.
The last coat - after curing - you called it "flood pour" is that what you said? And is it just the same mixture / resin mixture you started with or some sort of "finishing coat?" I'm a beginner sorry so many questions, I'm trying to understand how much product or what products are being used at what stage of the project. Thanks for your time and help!!!
Robin, yes the same product and mix ratio. The first coat should be very thin, just enough to cover the entire project. This will allow for bubbles to easily rise to the surface and will seal in all the porous areas and cracks. The flood coat is just a thicker pour, no more than 1/4" per application.
Hey, have you had a chance to try other brands? I saw your website and saw that you have mentioned us.
Hey TotalBoat! Thanks for commenting. We actually tried to test your epoxy, but while we were ordering epoxy you were out of inventory on Amazon... :(
@@epoxydiy6356 Hey shoot me an email at austing@jamestowndistributors.com
How do you deal with drips
Would it be ok if I just coat it once and stop there? Or is the 2nd coat required?
That really depends on what surface you are pouring over and how porous the surface is. What will you be pouring over? It also depends on how thick of a final product you'd like. Most epoxies require pours of no more the 1/8-1/4" per layer.
I have built 2 branches from solid oak barn wood which will be coated with a standard extreme weather gloss because they will be outdoors. However, I am mounting surfboards as the back rest and have been considering using epoxy. I have never used epoxy before. I read your reviews and saw that the one used in this video would be better than the rest for UV exposure, but would not be good for all day everyday exposure. I am attempting to find something that will give a nice thick coat to the board that will keep it from being so easily dented and will add strength on top of the brace I inserted in the back for mounting. Do you have any suggestions on what I could do. Thank you.
Most coating epoxies are not meant for UV exposure as they will yellow over time. There are a few surfboard epoxies though that you might be able to use as a coating. I will try and find the link and add it below;
Epoxy DIY that is amazing! Thank you so much.
Thank you for this! Super thorough and informative! I do have a question though. I have an old piano that I don't use. I've been thinking about taking the sound board out of it with the strings still on and pouring over it to make a really cool coffee table piece. My worry is getting the epoxy in the strings without having air bubbles. Any tips on that kind of project?
I don't have another sound board to do a sample on..I suppose I could get one though.
What is the distance between the strings and the board? The strings could hold bubbles, but if you pour in layers and have one layer come up just to touch the strings (not cover) then I think you'll minimize bubbles. The final coat will go over the strings. This layer should be as thin as possible so bubbles can release.
If there is a gap of more than 1/4 inch (between strings and board), you may be able to pour at an angle to get the epoxy to flow under the strings and coat the board. These are all just ideas, it's hard to visualize without seeing it.
@@epoxydiy6356 thank you! When I start I'll be doing a video series. I'll keep ya posted!
Awesome! Do you know what type of epoxy you'll be using?
@@epoxydiy6356 I do not, yet. I was wondering if there are specific epoxy products for metal and wood or if they are fairly universal?
What do u do to the containers ? Throw them? Wash them?
You can not wash epoxy. Depending on what type of epoxy you used, it can likely be cleaned up with Isopropyl Alcohol 99%
With the new coat did you spread the same way or just let it sit?
Most epoxies will self level, however helping spread it will speed up the process.
I have a coffee table that measures 36" x 24" with a laminate top and a jigsaw puzzle that will cover it. I want to pour epoxy over the table with the puzzle in it to make a permanent top with the picture. Any advise on pouring over what is essentially cardboard? Also, I don't want drips over the edge that I have to sand off and risk hurting the table since it's already made. I have seen others use sheathing tape and silicone spray for easy release in epoxy molds. Would that be a good way to protect the edge of the table and help the drips remove cleanly?
Yes, paper products need to be sealed prior to applying epoxy. You can use mod podge or a water based clear coat.
@@epoxydiy6356 Great thanks. What should I do about edge drips?
If I wanted to stain the wood before, what kind of stain should I use?
Most epoxies require water based stains/paint only. If you use an oil based stain, you must use a water based clear coat to cover that and cure prior to applying the epoxy. What type of epoxy are you using.
Is there a way to get a matte finish on timber countertop? We are thinking of waterproof the timber with epoxy, but do not want the gloss finish. Any suggestions?
You could sand the cured epoxy. This will take the shine off. However, many of these epoxies are not meant for outdoor use. Not sure where you are planning to use the timber.
@@epoxydiy6356 thanks. We are wanting to have wooden benchtops in our bathroom. What grit would you want it to give it a matte look?
You might want to start with something finer and work your way down, but a 320 grit will take the shine off.
I have a countertop that I want to epoxy but but there are some deep cracks/holes/knots in the top. I think these will look great under the epoxy finish but would like some idea about how to go about filling them before I apply the sealer coat to the rest of the piece. Also, did you do anything to level the epoxy during the flood coat or was this self leveling?
Do the knots/holes go all the way through the wood? If not, you could use epoxy to fill the holes. However, most epoxy requires thin pours. Many recommend pouring no more than 1/4" per application. Therefore, you would have to pour in many applications to fill the hole in order to bring it up to level with the rest of the surface.
@@epoxydiy6356 Dome of the knots go all the way through. Was thinking of taping the back side until dry then removing the tape.
If you do that, you'll likely need to sand the backside. The tape will often embed itself in the epoxy. will it be possible to sand the backside?
@@epoxydiy6356 Yes I can sand the back. Thanks for the tips.
Can you just do the sealing coat, without the actual pour coat?
Sure, it's up to you and the desired end thickness.
I am flooding a table with 1-4” cracks in it.... how do I calculate for those?
Are the 1-4" wide or deep? You would need to calculate the volume of these areas.
Epoxy DIY 1/4” deep
After your seal coat has set for 4 hours, did you use the same batch for the floor coat of mix a new batch for that?
No. If mixed epoxy is left in a container past 10 minutes, the epoxy will react in an accelerated fashion. You would have to mix a new batch prior to the flood coat.
You say the air temp should be 75 to 80 degrees when pouring. Upon pouring the flood coat does it need to remain that warm for 24 hours?
Yes, you'll want to maintain temperature throughout the curing process.
Hey I tried to coat a farmhouse table that was built for us. It was my first time and looks "tacky". Would doing a flood pour fix my uneven coat or should I do something else to fix. One the table is uneven to begin with; it also has different textures in the wood grain. However the person that built it has passed so we are trying to keep it in its original form but we had a house fire so we wanted to coat it in case I didn't scrub all the soot off that coated it.
Tammy, what type of epoxy did you use? Is the epoxy tacky or uneven or both? In regards to the tackiness, is the entire surface tacky or only certain spots?
@@epoxydiy6356 I used a farmhouse table epoxy from menards. The hole table has uneven epoxy. There are several spots that are hard but several that are still sticky.
What was the temperature when pouring/curing? Is the epoxy self leveling? I am not familiar with that specific epoxy.
@@epoxydiy6356 I didn't take the temperature that day so I am not sure. I think it was 70 outside
@@epoxydiy6356 I dont know if it is supposed to be self-leveling but it sure didn't level on the table
how would you get light scratches out of epoxy ... Very light scratches?
You can try buffing with a yellow foam pad and Finess It II: amzn.to/2qfSs3v
I have a flag painted table top with gaps between each board. How would you suggest I approach epoxying it and is it even feasible? Great video
Is there a base under the boards? Or would the epoxy flow through and off the side of the board to the ground?
Epoxy DIY I taped the underside to prevent the paint from dripping through. I could if necessary tack a thin backing board.
Be careful using a backing board as the epoxy might bond it to your project. how wide are the gaps?
Epoxy DIY maybe 1/16th and partially filled with paint making them even thinner
Can I apply this product over a conversion varnish table
Is this an oil based product? If so, no, epoxy cannot be poured directly over an oil based stain. You would need to first apply a water based clear coat. There needs to be a definitive barrier between the two. Epoxy & oil do not mix.
It's a acetone base clear
Great video; very informative! A friend said to use heat to lose the bubbles, but I was not sure of best approach, so thanks for that! A few questions relating to my kitchen island project, which has a "Baltic Birch" substrate.
(1) These epoxy formulations seem pretty inherently likely to stick to most surfaces; can they be placed over an existing [sound/fresh] finish such as satin-lustre conventional polyurethane? Just thinking that if I don't have the confidence to do this to my actual $$ surface without some practice, but I need to get the countertop into service with or without it, can I apply a finish to at least keep it from depreciating in the meantime?
(1a) I assume the presence of a light / wiped-on "grain accent stain" is not a problem either way? I noted your mention below of avoiding an oil-based substrate finish, but I definitely want an accent color under the pour.
(2) Is this epoxy material "post-machinable" like structural epoxies? That is, if I do what I'm describing in my question (3), can I finally shape the edge with my router (obviously after FULL cure to achieve hardness), for example a bevel, quarter/corner-round, ogee, etc, without softening and gumming or otherwise compromising the epoxy, and if so can it be buffed to a similar lustre as the virgin pour? If this can work, I intend to finally finish the edge by sanding and varnish, or an edge seal coat of the same epoxy to make the entire feature spill-proof.
(3) You were using beautiful natural forms, but my project is a machined plan shape with a square edge profile. Can I expect to succeed if I create a "pan" type feature with a temporary surround (such as a ribbon of formica or plastic around the edge of my otherwise flat substrate) so the "flood coat" can be poured without runoff, and subsequently remove the surround (after only curing enough to stop sagging)? Note that the temporary feature does not have to come unstuck "nicely" from the epoxy if the answer to my question (2) is affirmative; I intend for the edges to reveal the Baltic Birch plies via routing and sanding as necessary, and the top to maintain flood coat thickness right to the edge for subsequent shaping.
(4) Is there a maximum depth that this epoxy can be flooded in a single pour? In other words, assuming a seal coat has been done and given the [4-hour] requisite pre-cure, how thick can the flood coat be? I'm looking to reach a 3/16"-1/4" depth to nearly match height with a couple of "thus inlaid" large porcelain tiles (essentially functioning as built-in trivets), which will initially be appropriately set to the substrate (e.g., mastic or thin-set mortar). I intend to capture some 3-dimensional items such as pieces of mica and/or flat sections of birch bark in the flood pour and I am seeking to confirm the feasibility of this.
I found your mention of 1/4" maximum depth further below, so I think I have my answer for question (4)...
...And I also found your mention that polyurethane is not an exception to the rule of avoiding oil-based finishes. This begs the question: How much surface bonding integrity to we really need for a tabletop, bartop, or countertop? Most environmental forces on it will not be tending to attempt to separate it from the substrate; it seems like any kind of poured-in epoxy should represent overkill with respect to the surface bond; surely any poured epoxy will exhibit a better grip than formica with contact cement, no?!
Whew... this is a lot, but I am going to try my best to answer all your questions.
1. Most epoxies cannot be used over an oil based stain/paint etc. Whatever you use must be water based. If you use a clear coat that leaves a shiny/glossy finish, you will likely need to lightly sand the surface to take the shine off. This will allow the epoxy to properly stick. Of course, be sure to thoroughly clean the surface prior.
2. This is a tough one.... technically you can use a router, but I do not recommend it. The router can heat the epoxy up and ultimately melt it or can crack the epoxy. To round the corners you can use a board sander. Keep in mind this will eliminate the glossy look on the sanded areas.
3. Do you mean in relation to creating a form/dam around the edges? If you do this, you will almost certainly sand the areas where the form was.
4. Each epoxy is different, but most require pours of no more than 1/8-1/4" per application. You mentioned built in trivets... keep in mind that many coating epoxies are not high heat epoxies. Many will soften around 120°
I think I got them all, if you have more questions, please feel free to ask.
Jonathan, can you clarify your question? Do you mean what prep is necessary? If so, on what substrate (will it be raw wood, painted, stained, etc)?
I’m a Artist, and think about using a resin to pour over my art. Is there a smaller container that I could get in the resin that you used? I’ve small painting. Thank you I really like your video.
This only comes in 1 Gallon Kits. There are a few other small kits for sale online like this: amzn.to/2MXJZwu
Thank you.
Sure, no problem!
So, let the expoxy drip over the sides? Is there any edge clean up required?
That really depends on the project and the look you're going for. Are you referring to the hardened drip marks?
Hi. Can we rinse out the stir containers and reuse or do we have to use new ones each time? If using new ones each time, that is a LOT of WASTED PLASTIC! Great video. Thanks in advance!😊
Also, is there a type of epoxy resin that doesn’t require a room between 70° to 80°? That’s just a huge concern of mine because I don’t know that I would have access to that.
Most of the time, the epoxy will cure inside the graduated mixing container. It can then be peeled/pried out. We should do a video on this. Thanks for the suggestion.
Most coating epoxies require similar temperature constraints. What temp do you plan to use the epoxy is?
Epoxy DIY Thanks so much for responding! I will most likely be working in my basement which is around 65° to 70° on average. I was even thinking about purchasing heat lamps but don’t even know if that would be a good idea. This will be my first time working with epoxy resin.
If temps are below optimal working range, you risk the epoxy not flowing/leveling correctly. Heat lamps or portable heater might work, but you need to ensure that the temp surrounding the project is consistently within range.
Epoxy DIY Okay, once again thanks so much for responding, your help, and the information. I truly appreciate!🙏🧡😊
Great video thanks. I am doing a college sports bar top and embedding memorabilia insides like laminated tickets, buttons, newspaper clippings, etc. I did a practice run on a test piece and it worked well but I did have one question. Because this is a large project (30sf) I will need one or two people to help with the flood coat work, mixing next batch while pouring, heating, etc so I would like to prep as much as possible and scheduling may be tough. If I do a seal coat can that fully cure before I do the flood coat or should it be done relatively soon? My test piece was done 24 hours apart from seal to flood, can I go longer? Like a week, or more? Or should it be done within the 72 hours during curing?
That depends on the type of epoxy you are using. Generally speaking, you should wait until the epoxy is tacky to the touch (in most cases 4-6 hours) to pour an additional coat. If you wait 24 hours or longer you may need to sand the surface with something like 320 grit to make sure that the next coat will properly adhere. I hope this helps!
@@epoxydiy6356 it does help, thanks!
Awesome. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
It probably goes without saying, but you want to wipe the surface with denatured alcohol after you sand.
@@epoxydiy6356 One other question, what do you recommend for dam building? Will a metal tape or a wood veneer edging banding be enough to support the weight of the epoxy if I am pouring 3/8" to 1/2" deep across a bar top?
I was going to use foil tape as a dam around the edge, but not sure how to use with two coats. Can I brush the seal coat as you did, then after 4 hours apply foil tape around the perimeter edge to pour the flood coat, or would this mess up the seal coat finish? Perhaps I should just let the flood coat overflow, brush the sides and sand any excess drips after hardening? Also, do we use the torch on flood coat as well? FYI we’re finishing a desk made from two live edge oak slabs. Thanks so much!!
It depends on what epoxy you are using, but most coating epoxies like this will take 12+ hours to cure hard enough to apply tape. Prior to this, you would be applying tape to tacky epoxy.
OK that makes sense. Do we also torch the flood or is that only necessary on the seal coat?
Yes, you will need to use a heat gun/torch to remove any bubbles on any coat.
Thank you! Your video and the time spent reading and replying to comments and questions is invaluable!!
Thank you! Your video and the time spent reading and replying to comments and questions is invaluable!!
I'm building a 7ft long, 3 1/2ft wide kitchen table for my wife. Pine 2×6's. Approx. How much epoxy would you estimate I may need? It's around $60 for the resin and catalyst.
What's the desired thickness? Most coating epoxy calls for 1/8 or 1/4 inch pour at a time. Therefore, you'll need to pour layers to build up to a desired thickness. You'll need to know the final thickness to calculate how much epoxy you need. A general rule is: 12 sqft per mixed gallon at 1/8" or 24 at 1/16"
@@epoxydiy6356 thanks, man. I appreciate your reply. I think I'll need about 2 gallons of each. Not the entire 2 gallons each. Sure gets pricey. But it will be worth it. Again, thank you for your reply.
How do I know how many square foot a gallon of mixed resin will cover? I am doing a dinning room table that is 72x38 inches.
How thick do you want the final project?
@@epoxydiy6356 I want a good coat on it no certain thickness. The table is 1.5 inches thick.
Well it would depend on how thick your final coat is. Many epoxies require a max pour of 1/8" or 1/4" per application. Generally, a gallon will cover 12 sqft at 1/8"
can the epoxy be applied over polyurethane?
Each epoxy is different in what it can/can't pour over. However, most epoxies should not be poured over oil based stains, paints, etc. If it its water based then you should be fine.
Glad I read this question! I have oil based stains that I’m using on a project, i’d really like to find an Apoxsee that can help bolster its durability.
Not sure if this has been asked yet, is this epoxy food safe?
Some properly cured epoxy is possible to be food safe. However, because the customer is mixing/pouring we cannot say this is food safe approved. Each mixture/application would have to be assessed individually.
Hi, great video. I was wondering if the temperature can be higher than the range you mentioned? I'm doing a tabletop and have to finish it in my garage, which is not climate controlled and I live in the south where it's quite hot. Could I reasonably do the tabletop with temperatures of over 80 or 85?
It really depends on the specific epoxy you are using. However, most have a max temp near 80°
@@epoxydiy6356 shew, okay, thanks. I'll wait for a few cool days, or I may have to move the project indoors?
Yes, indoors is better so that you can control the environment. Keep in mind epoxy does not like humidity either.
Is there a formula to know how much epoxy to prepare before making the mix?
That depends on how thick you will be pouring. Most epoxies require pours of no more than 1/8"-1/4"
This particular epoxy used in the video will cover 12 sqft per mixed gallon at 1/8" or 24 at 1/16"
@@epoxydiy6356 Thank you sir.
No Problem!
I poured epoxy and after 2-3 weeks it didn't hardend. What did i do wrong? I pour it in an christmas tree ball. It was 2A 1B epoxy. So 2-1.
This is likely due to incorrect ratios or incomplete mixing. Can the uncured epoxy be removed?
@@epoxydiy6356 it was like jelly. And it got very sticky to the plastic. I threw it away. So how long does it take to the resin to harden before i could be able to remove it from the plastic?
Did you have a hard time putting the gloves on...hahaha. I understand . No offense I thought it was funny. Loved the video
Ha ha definitely! Hot & Sweaty hands and gloves don't mix!
I have done very similar with Woodglut designs.
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Woodprix.
On that "sealer" coat stage WHY mix up so much resin? what a waste.
We were actually pouring a separate project at the same time.
He said he had other projects