Hi. Not sure whether you are talking about my little machine shop, or the hand tool workshop that features at the beginning of the video. The machine shop is about 15 years old, and is a modified off the shelf 'workshop' from a shed manufacturer. I increased the headroom by adding to the top of the wall panels, wired out for lots of lighting and power sockets coupled to a garage consumer unit (6A lighting, 20A power, with RCD), insulated walls and ceilings with 1" polystyrene clad in t&g. That sat on a ring wall of brick, within which I had a 4" reinforced concrete slab poured, on top of grave, sand, DPM, and 2" Styrofoam. My hand tool workshop (which I am in the process of moving out from), I designed myself and commissioned a local shed builder to fabricate. I prepared the base as per the machine shop, only now using 100mm polyisocyanurate(?) insulation under and around the slab. It is double glazed too, and the walls and roof also insulated as per the floor. I wouldn't recommend either supplier, as I ended up having to sort out problems with both. Hope that helps a bit. Ask if you need anything else.
Hi Mitch As a matter of interest, why do you plane the way you do, and then tell people not to copy your technique? It's not for me to advise you on safety and I'm not trying to be negative here, but that machine will do more than trim your nails when your finger contacts the cutter head. (As I'm sure you know) It never fails to amaze me when I see people operating machines with well designed safety features, and choosing to not use them. It would have taken a few seconds to set the blade guard, and IMHO, the euro style guards actually improve planing technique by forcing one to apply pressure where it's needed - on the outfeed table.
Ant Mallett Hi. I plane the way I do because I have a better view and less obstructions, (I haven't had an accident on the planer, yet!). I tell people to follow the manufacturer's safety instructions because, as awkward as they make planing, they do keep fingers away from the cutters.
I like your workshop building - I am in the market for buying a building like this to move my workshop in to. Can you tell me where you purchased it and if you would recommend them and any other general advice on wooding buildings as a workshop such as insulation etc.
Great vid, just bought a Charnwood version that looks identical. The fence is awful, I don't know why they bother putting that angle scale on it. It probably has about 5 degrees of tolerance either way lol. Mine didn't come with the gauge for setting the knives, would you recommend setting the tables first and bringing the knives up to the plane of the table? Thanks for the video. Scott
Hi Scott, Yes, the fence has very poor accuracy and repeatability. Mine does at least lock securely, so once I've got the angle right it stays there. The gauge for setting the blade height is a great help, as it sets the cut parallel to the thicknessing table. At least that's the idea - often it's still a tad out, and I ought to do a further video on dialing in final accuracy (I hand plane all my furniture components to final size, taking care of any machine inaccuracies at that point, but I know some people would prefer to finish with the machine). Anyway, without the gauge I guess you will need to improvise something similar, which will achieve the same objective. My suggestion would be to cut a concave radius to match the knife block out of a piece of clear plastic, and notch it to allow the blades to be set with a certain amount of exposure (start so that the bevel only is showing, then take a test cut). Basically the same as the gauge I have. Setting the knives first is the way to go really. Then test thicknessing (of course you need a flat face side to slide on the thicknesing table to start with!). If the thicknesser produces a parallel surface to the face side, then you can move onto the jointer tables. If not, using feeler gauges or paper shims with your knife setting gauge, adjust the knife heights across the block, until it does. Set the outfeed table to be parallel and at the same height as the knives at top dead centre. Now set the infeed table, fully raised, coplanar to the outfeed table, and then lower it by the depth of cut you want. Re-check that the tables are parallel across the full width and length. A test cut should confirm all's well. Now you're good to go! Sorry for the lengthy reply. I hope it is clear enough to understand. I've convinced myself that I really need to shoot a whole new video on this topic! but that will have to wait until I'm settled in my new place. Cheers, Mitch
Thanks for the in-depth reply Mitch, I appreciate you taking the time. I wouldn't of thought to check for parallel by running it through the thicknesser first, good idea! I've got a long straight edge ordered so I'm not going to start until that arrives. I think I'll take your advice and make a guage to sit over the knife block. Thanks again, Scott
SLAVI KRAEV My guess would be the blades are not ground straight or installed evenly in the block. Do you mean the thicknessing is thicker one side compared with the other - knives set deeper in block at one side. Or there is a lot of ripple in a surfaced board - outfeed table too low.
SLAVI KRAEV I'm a little confused as thickness should be achieved under the cutter, on the rising table that has no adjustment visible. This will only work correctly if the knives are set at the correct height with the setting gauge - too low and they won't cut, too high and the power feed won't be able to cope, not equal with each other and the surface will be badly rippled, and higher one end than the other which will give result of thicker one side. The out feed table adjustment screws should be used to set the table level with the 'top dead centre' height of the knives. The in-feed table should be adjusted so that it is always parallel to the out- feed. Blunt knives can through things out too, since they don't cut to the same height. Sharpen so they are straight edged - it's tempting to just sharpen the blunt area (usually the centre) but avoid this. It is a difficult thing to get just right, with testing being the only way to be sure, so use some cheap lumber if you have any.
My machine broke down over a year ago, and hand planing everything is certainly less frustrating ;-) Why not try temporarily attaching a magnet - no idea if the blades and bars are magnetic, but it's just a thought
Hi , i wonder if you can help, i have a old model and need a drive belt , the drive belt is flat, mine keeps snapping my old belts, could look at you machine and see if the belt is the same and maybe where i can buy a replacement belt, thank you.
Mine has a flat belt too. I got my last replacement belt from Axminster power tools, where I originally bought the machine. It wasn't listed in their catalogue or online store, but the support line furnished an order number for it. I've super glued one with great success too. It lasted a long as it originally did. One thing I do now is to remove the belt when not in use, and also protect from sunlight and cold.
7 years on and I'd love to know how many fingers this guy has left. It's fine to push through like that but close the bridge guard up to the wood ffs. And why the hell are you stood round the back of the machine. Don't do it kids.
I would never presume to instruct on safety, since common sense is so variable. I do however still retain all fingers, with no injuries, thanks to only operating equipment when fully alert and having understood the manufacturers safety instructions.
Hi. Not sure whether you are talking about my little machine shop, or the hand tool workshop that features at the beginning of the video.
The machine shop is about 15 years old, and is a modified off the shelf 'workshop' from a shed manufacturer. I increased the headroom by adding to the top of the wall panels, wired out for lots of lighting and power sockets coupled to a garage consumer unit (6A lighting, 20A power, with RCD), insulated walls and ceilings with 1" polystyrene clad in t&g. That sat on a ring wall of brick, within which I had a 4" reinforced concrete slab poured, on top of grave, sand, DPM, and 2" Styrofoam.
My hand tool workshop (which I am in the process of moving out from), I designed myself and commissioned a local shed builder to fabricate. I prepared the base as per the machine shop, only now using 100mm polyisocyanurate(?) insulation under and around the slab. It is double glazed too, and the walls and roof also insulated as per the floor.
I wouldn't recommend either supplier, as I ended up having to sort out problems with both.
Hope that helps a bit. Ask if you need anything else.
Hi Mitch
As a matter of interest, why do you plane the way you do, and then tell people not to copy your technique? It's not for me to advise you on safety and I'm not trying to be negative here, but that machine will do more than trim your nails when your finger contacts the cutter head. (As I'm sure you know)
It never fails to amaze me when I see people operating machines with well designed safety features, and choosing to not use them. It would have taken a few seconds to set the blade guard, and IMHO, the euro style guards actually improve planing technique by forcing one to apply pressure where it's needed - on the outfeed table.
Ant Mallett Hi. I plane the way I do because I have a better view and less obstructions, (I haven't had an accident on the planer, yet!). I tell people to follow the manufacturer's safety instructions because, as awkward as they make planing, they do keep fingers away from the cutters.
I thought the video was going well right up until the planing, I was bit shocked. Nice workshop though
I like your workshop building - I am in the market for buying a building like this to move my workshop in to. Can you tell me where you purchased it and if you would recommend them and any other general advice on wooding buildings as a workshop such as insulation etc.
Great vid, just bought a Charnwood version that looks identical. The fence is awful, I don't know why they bother putting that angle scale on it. It probably has about 5 degrees of tolerance either way lol. Mine didn't come with the gauge for setting the knives, would you recommend setting the tables first and bringing the knives up to the plane of the table?
Thanks for the video.
Scott
Hi Scott,
Yes, the fence has very poor accuracy and repeatability. Mine does at least lock securely, so once I've got the angle right it stays there.
The gauge for setting the blade height is a great help, as it sets the cut parallel to the thicknessing table. At least that's the idea - often it's still a tad out, and I ought to do a further video on dialing in final accuracy (I hand plane all my furniture components to final size, taking care of any machine inaccuracies at that point, but I know some people would prefer to finish with the machine). Anyway, without the gauge I guess you will need to improvise something similar, which will achieve the same objective. My suggestion would be to cut a concave radius to match the knife block out of a piece of clear plastic, and notch it to allow the blades to be set with a certain amount of exposure (start so that the bevel only is showing, then take a test cut). Basically the same as the gauge I have.
Setting the knives first is the way to go really. Then test thicknessing (of course you need a flat face side to slide on the thicknesing table to start with!). If the thicknesser produces a parallel surface to the face side, then you can move onto the jointer tables. If not, using feeler gauges or paper shims with your knife setting gauge, adjust the knife heights across the block, until it does. Set the outfeed table to be parallel and at the same height as the knives at top dead centre. Now set the infeed table, fully raised, coplanar to the outfeed table, and then lower it by the depth of cut you want. Re-check that the tables are parallel across the full width and length. A test cut should confirm all's well. Now you're good to go!
Sorry for the lengthy reply. I hope it is clear enough to understand. I've convinced myself that I really need to shoot a whole new video on this topic! but that will have to wait until I'm settled in my new place.
Cheers, Mitch
Thanks for the in-depth reply Mitch, I appreciate you taking the time. I wouldn't of thought to check for parallel by running it through the thicknesser first, good idea! I've got a long straight edge ordered so I'm not going to start until that arrives. I think I'll take your advice and make a guage to sit over the knife block.
Thanks again,
Scott
No problem Scott. Good luck, and feel free to ask for any advice in the future. Mitch
Scott Dimelow - Build Fix Create Your
I recently bought Metabo HC260 it is very similar to the machine in the review. My planer planes unevenly is there any idea can help me?
SLAVI KRAEV My guess would be the blades are not ground straight or installed evenly in the block.
Do you mean the thicknessing is thicker one side compared with the other - knives set deeper in block at one side.
Or there is a lot of ripple in a surfaced board - outfeed table too low.
SLAVI KRAEV I'm a little confused as thickness should be achieved under the cutter, on the rising table that has no adjustment visible.
This will only work correctly if the knives are set at the correct height with the setting gauge - too low and they won't cut, too high and the power feed won't be able to cope, not equal with each other and the surface will be badly rippled, and higher one end than the other which will give result of thicker one side.
The out feed table adjustment screws should be used to set the table level with the 'top dead centre' height of the knives. The in-feed table should be adjusted so that it is always parallel to the out- feed.
Blunt knives can through things out too, since they don't cut to the same height. Sharpen so they are straight edged - it's tempting to just sharpen the blunt area (usually the centre) but avoid this.
It is a difficult thing to get just right, with testing being the only way to be sure, so use some cheap lumber if you have any.
is there a trick for getting the blades to stay on the damned lugs!! So frustrating that bit
My machine broke down over a year ago, and hand planing everything is certainly less frustrating ;-)
Why not try temporarily attaching a magnet - no idea if the blades and bars are magnetic, but it's just a thought
Hi , i wonder if you can help, i have a old model and need a drive belt , the drive belt is flat, mine keeps snapping my old belts, could look at you machine and see if the belt is the same and maybe where i can buy a replacement belt, thank you.
Mine has a flat belt too. I got my last replacement belt from Axminster power tools, where I originally bought the machine. It wasn't listed in their catalogue or online store, but the support line furnished an order number for it.
I've super glued one with great success too. It lasted a long as it originally did.
One thing I do now is to remove the belt when not in use, and also protect from sunlight and cold.
7 years on and I'd love to know how many fingers this guy has left.
It's fine to push through like that but close the bridge guard up to the wood ffs.
And why the hell are you stood round the back of the machine.
Don't do it kids.
I would never presume to instruct on safety, since common sense is so variable. I do however still retain all fingers, with no injuries, thanks to only operating equipment when fully alert and having understood the manufacturers safety instructions.
You don't get to teach chapter 6 until page 1 is understood.