CNC Tap by CHAOTICLAB - Install and Testing
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- čas přidán 24. 05. 2023
- Install the Chaoticlabs CNC Tap on our Voron 2.4 R2 Ultimate Build, start to finish! After the installation and some minor issues, we finalize the testing to compare this to the original Tap. What I find surprises me and makes me realize I may have a few faults in my "highly scientific" test.
Install is pretty straightforward - keep in mind if you have excess belting and or you're installing this from the start your process will be the same but much easier! My cut A/B belts don't give me a ton to wiggle room for the install!
This unit was NOT provided at any discount and it was solely purchased for me to test use and review. I offer a link below to purchase if you choose. Hector at Fabreeko is a good guy and very helpful!
Where to By USA:
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Just finished the video Kermit, nice job on showing us the install of the Chaoticlabs CNC Tap. For some reason I thought this was a lot more money, I agree with you on going this route. I jumped the gun too fast on the original tap and while this one looks nice I think I will stick with my original for a while. Hopefully I will get my CW2 and my tap installed this long weekend. Its been sitting on the bench for far too long. Keep up the great videos sir!
Marc - Thanks! Yes these seem to definitely be worth the few extra dollars. Considering with the printed Tap you still need to purchase the optical sensor, the price difference is negligible. I suspect that this will last longer and be more stable over time than the original. I'm still impressed with my printed Tap, but I see benefits here! Anyways let me know if and when you need anything! Talk soon
I hope you keep it up man. I really enjoy your videos. You do a great job and are a lot better to watch than other popular CZcamsrs. Some I can’t stand watching… I’ve pretty much taken all your recommendations and just about finished printing my parts, all my parts ordered are received. Just wanted you to know your videos are great. Keep it up man. Look forward to more. I’m interested in also possibly building a Rat Rig V-core. Would like to see your take on that kinda build also. (So far you have built how I would). I remember you had some sort of way of us showing our appreciation monthly but I can’t find it. Thanks
Thanks! Yes, there are a few people out there that have either chosen to be angry all the time or just a little too serious... I try to have fun and explain why I'm doing what I do. I appreciate the comments more than anything! As for helping the channel, I do have channel memberships located here: czcams.com/channels/ApuU4NY4ycn4g4tDie2OKg.htmljoin From about $2 and up. BTW I'm very interested in the RatRig and I was poised to order parts until someone told me about some negatives of their current "kits". I'm not 100% sure how accurate his comments were - or if it was a single batch issue, but I'm keeping my eyes and ears open. It's on my radar! This build is getting close to an end BUT I DO have a lot more to talk about! From writing your own Klipper macros to possibly interfacing the printer whit home automation. I also need to reinstall my kinematics mount and re-run the CNC Tap to see if we have any notable differences! Anyways - The best help you can give me is to keep watching, comment and be part of this little community! Keep a level head when you (or I) make mistakes and let's all learn from each other!
Good work! I also ordered a CNC tap a while ago and will install it with my gantry upgrade soon. Greetings from Germany!
Hallo, Freund! I have stayed away from CNC parts on Voron printers since I first became aware of them. I have had quite a few people interested and asking, so when I realized there was a CNC Tap and I was questioning the performance of the printed Tap it was obviously a good time to give CNC parts a try. I still believe that the machine is meant to have plastic parts for assembly since they offer some flex and dampening, but for the Tap -this makes sense! Thanks fro watching! Hopefully, I hear from you again or see you on a live stream.
@@BuildItBasement Yes, same for me. I also think the Voron is meant to be built from plastic parts- and it is really fine to have it that way. That way you can always modify or rebuild parts on your own. But with the rise of DIY printers like the VzBot for which you can order almost all parts for a good price from CNC machined aluminium, I always think if there may be still improvements possible on the well designed Voron where you replace integral parts to metal parts to get more rigidity for faster AND quality prints.
Excellent video, as always! Now go work the heck out of it and see if it maintains its accuracy and stability. :)
I was tired... But I needed to get this one done. I'm actually impressed with how well it works. There are a lot of people complaining about it (then I realized I was on the internet and that's is the primary function of the internet). A lot of people asked about this items so I had to do it! As for long term, I can't imagine it wouldn't hold up AT LEAST as well as a plastic counterpart.
Awesome video. I didn't know there was a printable for the Y and just went sensorless. So far it's awesome.
Yeah - I wasn't either until I realized I had nothing to trigger the endstop! How are you liking sensorless? I plan to consider that route as either a primary on my rebuild series (other 2.4) or as a failsafe system for a few things... a lot could be done using the current information...
@Build It Basement it was very easy to set up and works flawlessly. Sometimes I'll get a jerk here and there especially if I home the printer when it's too close to the rear or front. But other than that I'll definitely do it to all my printers in the future.
@@mr.rajikon3911 I was speaking with another person about code to use the same "feature" to do extruder jamming detection and run out detection... For X/Y/Z, collision detection.. A lost could be p[ulled out beyond just sensorless homing!
@@BuildItBasement You always see the argument that sensorless isn't as accurate. If it's just for intial homing cant see any minor differences making a difference. Or is it just me and there is a power issues across the country and people needing to recover from power failures all the time? I have it on a couple printers and it works just fine.
@@macdox69 I don't think it is less or more so than othe rmethods - but it would say that it requires more fine tuning and would possibly cause a little more stress on steppers and drivers. Never thought about outages! LOL I run my printers on UPS units anyways... The teardown and rebuild series for my old 2.4 will probably be sensorless since I'm going to be using CAN.
If the deviation is around 0.01mm I’m good with it. You don’t need more accuracy in my opinion. When I adjust z offset I use 0.02 to 0.04 steps anyway.
I ordered a normal Tap kit. If something goes wrong it will break and I can reprint it with my Bambu.
The benefits of any version of tap outweigh the precision.
Thank you for making this content. I was considering moving to TAP and saw that people were having issues with the belt mounts breaking off and decided not to until I saw the CNC TAP. I ordered it and waited 6 weeks to get it. Haven't installed yet, but am more confident now seeing your results. Lots of negative comments on ADXL results, do you plan on doing a comparison of TAP vs CNC TAP for resonance/speed/acceleration?
The biggest issues with Tap is the amount of stress put on a relatively thin plastic part. Couple that with the additonal few mm forward of the X and you get some more "slop" . I may consider doing an ADXL comparison in the furure, but I will tell you that the CNC version is much stiffer and doesn't have a lot of the inconsistencies found in the printed version. That all being said, the Tap is an amazing adition to the Voron. I believe that using the nozzle is going to always give you the best results since you are removing another variable. I would like to (one day) see a hotend mount that is aluminum from the rail to the filament path. plastic would be great for the facade and maybe some dampening... But these parts on the rpinter need to be rigid and precise! I'll take your suggestion and possible consider doing a comparison - I just don't want to put the old Tap on, unless I have to! Let me know if you have any more ideas and feel free to comment where you like (questions or comments). Thank you for the kind words!
@@BuildItBasement Awesome, Thanks for the response. I wouldnt want to put the old one back on either haha.
Thanks for making another great and fun video. Enjoyed the testing data comparing the CNC to printed TAP. Have you set up custom probe points so you don't probe over the magnets when bed meshing, homing and QGL testing?
Woody - I have not. I don't believe it to be much of an issue with a physical touch probe vs the inductive probe. Have you seen information otherwise? Customer probe points would be quite easy except I pan to use adaptive bedmesh... That could be a conflict to solve. Let me know!
I haven't seen info on adjusting the probing points on mag bed but have seen info on TAP having sensitivity to pick up where the screws attach the linear rail to the extrusion. So it would make sense to move the probe points so they don't spring board the plate into the indentions where the holes are drilled for the magnets. Kind of a drum skin effect.
Comment to add here since someone had added a comment and I can't find it anymore.. About me lubricating the rail system... So I have spent a few hours on the Chaoticlab Discord and have had direct and indirect conversations with support from the company. So a couple of notes: (1) The instructions are not clear on the lube on this part. The written instructions would make you believe that the rail is ready to go - however, quote: "ChaoticLab_Tech - 05/05/2023 10:47 AM
I suppose the assumption is that if a person has built a Voron then there is an awareness that all rails generally require lube. These should not require cleaning since they are genuine HIWIN and should have no grit in them. A quick flush with WD40 followed by injection of your lube of choice should do the trick." (2) I never fully removed the carriage from the rail. I slid it up and down. (3) I found it VERY difficult to install cut belts on this part without taking the front mating plate off first. As a general rule - and a suggestion, don't take everything at face value, everytime. Sometimes doing what your gut tells you is whats right for you. Research anything that seems off and learn from others. (Chad) Not sure where your comment went, but I'm more than will to explain myself! Thanks viewers!
Great video! I am planning on installing the ChaoticLab V2 of this soon. One question- where did you find the x endstop mod? (Around 10:21 minute mark)
Hi Greg - Happy to see you stop by. The extended printed part can be found here: github.com/Chaoticlab/CNC-Tap-for-Voron/blob/master/STL/XY_Switch_Adapter/CNC_Voron_TAP_XY_Switch_Adapter_V2.stl - Now keep in mind that on the V2 they package an aluminum version of this part, no need to print one! I'll be installing the Vitalii and testing that product soon. I have som many things to do and no time to do them all!
@@BuildItBasement Awesome, thanks for the info and quick response! I can totally relate to the too many things to do and not enough time.. Lol! I guess it's a good problem to have. Glad I stumbled onto your channel!
Im at a similar place in my build too, so this was great to watch. Those feet on the bottom side of your bed - I imagine they stop it rocking on the kinematics? If I push on the front corners of mine it can tilt up - ill have to have a look for some of those. Do you have a link?
My kinematics are currently off the bed for testing. I'm going to be reinstalling them shortly. Those are the standard bed mounts. Just to note - the kinematics seemed to work fine with the tap, but I wanted to remove ANY additional variations for testing. I will also say that the CNC Tap seems to need a noticeable LESS amount of force to activate. I'll probably be looking at that in the next two-three videos. I first have to release my macro video for my 2D nozzle scrub and finish up my Klipper video series. So it'll be a good week or so. Wish I had more time!!!
@@BuildItBasement Same, family and work and life means not much time left. I think ill pick up a couple of those CNC Taps, they looks like they are nicely made.
The tool free tensioners also look V nice while im looking on there...
Great video series, it has been great doing my build along with yours, keep em coming!
@@ukrainewarroom8410 Thanks for the nice words! If the tool-free tensioners had a ratchet to ensure they hold I would be more interested. As it is, my experience is after the first ~20 hours of print time I had to retighten and adjust, after that it's really rare to have to retighten belts. We'll see. I offered to review the whole kit if they provided it for my old 2.4 rebuild series, but they haven't taken me up on the offer. There are so many mods available for these machines to look at and decide on.
I've been hesitating on buying CNC Tap because its 5V only and I currently only have 24V at my toolhead (Voron Trident, LDO kit). Its a bit hard to see in the video, but if I could ask, where are you getting 5V from -- do you have a breakout board at the toolhead?
Paul, I won't shame you for not watching the entire build... Just kidding here... Yes! I do have a a board in the toolhead that has 5V available, mostly for the LED lighting. I'm very impressed with the CNC Tap, I actually will say that I think its pretty damn great. The only two negatives are 1.) you need 5V and 2.) The unit isn't repairable with out purchasing parts that seem to now be available. I'm a firm believer in being able to repair things (as much as possible) with the tools and materials you have on hand. For that reason, I plan to keep my original Tap on hand - If I ever need it. As for the 5V, its a single wire up to the tool head, it may be worth your effort. As with everything I do and say - In the end it's your printer and you must decide what you want to do. I'll provide some of my insight and experiences! If you have any further questions please never hesitate to ask away!
Hello there, I have been following your build series for a while now and its been really great! Super helpful!
I wanted to ask if you had considered using the Orbiter v2 extruder over CW2?
Actually, I have not. On my first 2.4 with CW1 I totally didn't like the path or the performance and went with a Bondtech unit as a replacement. So far the CW2 has worked pretty well for my testing. My preference is to always give DIY/printed parts a try and go from there. I'm not against trying the V2, I'm actually thinking of doing it on the rebuild of my older 2.4, which will also have CANbus and some other things I haven't done on this build!
I can't remember if you covered it, but how are you powering/connecting that? I thought the LDO kit's PCB only supported 24v? I'll go back and watch part 1 again. :)
I had already modified my board for 5v. Single cut trace and a jumper wire soldered
@@BuildItBasement Ah - in part 11.5. Found it.
@@runbuh lol
So my induction probe has to do a lot of retries on the left side of the machine and the right side is perfectly fine.
I have gotten the belts to match in tension and still nothing has helped. Will the Tap help make leveling more accurate?
How many is a lot? Does the printer complete a QGL? How many passes... Requires are due to measurements being or if sync and not within the expected. Make sure your induction probe is tight on your carriage and your carriage is tight to the rail. The super short answer is no, Tap shouldn't define the change or fix the issue you are seeing. Does it do this both hot and cold?
@BuildItBasement hot while levelling. I will take another look at the probe itself.
@@zergmare7 Try a QGL cold and confirm similar results, as well.
Chad, great video. I bought this device and I am about finishing installing it. I am also using the SB and Harkt 2 piece PCB. I am confused on one point the instructions are very explicit that the sensor in this device is 5V and you should not use 24v. Yet the FS connector you connected this to on the PCB is 24V according to my information. Am I missing something here? Thanks again for the nice tutorial.
I answered my own question. I had an older version of the PCB that did not have the 5V. The one I have now is 5V. Thanks
@@jadoglio My board was modified. I'm pulling 5v. I did this in a prior video
Hey there! Where can I find this part to trigger the x-endstop? I can't find it anywhere! Thanks!
I found it, chaoticlab github. But what do I put inside the hex hole? You put in a screw?
github.com/Chaoticlab/CNC-Tap-for-Voron/blob/master/STL/XY_Switch_Adapter/CNC_Voron_TAP_XY_Switch_Adapter_V2.stl
Let me know if you need anything else. BTW I'll be starting new video releases shortly! Hopefully you stick around.
@@BuildItBasement I’ve printed X endstop from GitHub. It doesn’t come close to hitting the stop. I have the PCB version of the X/Y end stop. The screw head rides right over the X end stop switch. Is there possibly another trigger file somewhere? Thanks