Stumped! Even the Mechanics! John Deere 2010 Does Not Want to Run!
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Working on the John Deere 2010 again, still no luck on getting it to run right, and still not entirely sure what is wrong. Also had a couple of family members that are mechanics looking at it as well.
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Check your wiring diagrams for the voltage at the coil. The ignition switch, or wiring may be dropping enough voltage to cause misfires. Since it sat for a long time, check the distributor lobes for rust. That’ll bounce the points around, and make sure the rotor tab is touching the top of the cap. Good luck with it!
I know this is an old video, but I just happened across it.... not sure if you fixed it yet, but I went through this last summer with my '64 4020. No matter what I did it would not run. Rebuilt the carb twice. Rebuilt the distributor. New cap and rotor. 3 different sets of points/condensers. New plugs, new wires, coil, resistor. Checked compression 120 on every cyl..... Checked timing. Spot on. Still wouldn't run right. It would randomly run great, then run for anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour.... then start sputtering and die again. Finally on a Hail Mary, my mechanic buddy gave me a condenser from a mid 60's scout he found in his grandpa's tool box in his garage, one crank and it fired right up and ran fantastic. Was able to finish first cutting of hay with it without a hitch. Turns out newer condensers aren't made like they used to, so even a new condenser still ran like crap. Bought an electronic ignition conversion kit and it has run like new since. All of that down time, headache and money for unneeded new parts because $6 condensers are made poorly now a days. Hope that helps.
I believe that was the problem here as well! Ended up putting two new sets of points and condensers in, last set it finally ran good.
@@radozeman excellent! If it starts to act up again, look into electronic ignition conversion kits. Mine seems to run stronger than with a good set of points. It was about $159 and worth every penny
The coil looks new it needs a Resistor
It was all new.
Hi I am working on a 2010 (turning into a restore ) but carb trouble this one did act much the same as yours i too was into the carb several times (over look on my part) I installed a new needle and seat a new float and still run bad fuel present at the carb intake what i discovered the power valve on the bottom was at one time overtightened and damaged it i got a new one from johndeere it did the trick no more over fueling or leaking and runs well
Did you check the float? A hole in the float will fill with fuel than it won't stop the fuel from entering the carb.
Yes and it is a new carb rebuild to.
The black plugs would suggest that its running rich. The fuel coming out of the carb could be the float is set to high maybe, which could cause a rich condition. Might want to hit the plugs with a wire brush and see if that makes a difference with how the timing light reacts. The governor would most likely hold the throttle wide open until the engine reaches the speed that the throttle is set for, but we do know that there is a throttle linkage/governor issue. I'm just tossing ideas out there.
Seems odd it would hold the throttle wide open, not usually a good way to start a motor unless you want to flood it! Definitely agree it’s running rich, but because of weak spark or too much fuel? We’ve checked the carburetor so many times at this point I can probably but it back together blind folded!
I believe mine holds the throttle wide open as well. I will have to double check.
Any luck with resolution?
Did you check the timing
If you have fuel running out of the carb when it's not running it's a bad needle and seat or possible it's a bad float. Small pin hole will sink them
Can’t be, we checked it several times! The float floats, and putting pressure to the fuel line it holds
I have the same tractor, and the same problem. does not start. Actively watching this CZcams.. In the mean while. I'll keep plugging ..
it sounds like its flooding its self, with a combination of a coil issue
Yes, defiintely looks like a coil issue
Does the carb have a float in it
Yes, it does
Key switch could be bad and losing the value of the fire to coil. Try temporary hot wire to coil ???
if you put the plugs in black it wont run right.wire brush on a grinder or drill works good.i would remove the bowl on the carb if you can then remove the fuelline,then blow in the fuel line inlet on the carb then raise the float.if it doesnt stop the flow of air you have a needle seat sealing problem.float may be out of adjustment or the needle and seat may be worn or a hole in the float.remove float and see if it floats in water..check coil for blue spark.if it is yellow or white replace it but i think it is the needle valve in the carb.checkthe gap on the points .if it is ok close the points and puta piece of white paper between the contacts to make sure the points dont have oil on the contacts.dont forget the condenser and resistor could be bad also.if the gas puddles it has water in the gas.old gas perhaps.try putting the float in water and see if it floats.if it sinks i t may have a crack or hole in it.if you have a old tank try running fresh gaswith a remote tank..make sure you didnt put diesel in the tank by mistake.
White smoke from the exhaust....antifreeze in the cylinders.....head gasket?
First thing I’d do? Throw the points away and go with electronic ignition. More horse power and less gas. Your problem seems ignition for sure. Must people don’t know what the condenser does. It stores juice to even out the spark. And that sounds exactly your problem. I’m sure on your tune up you replace points and condenser right. Grab a multi meter not a test light and find where your loosing voltage. If the tractor came out with a 6 volt system and someone changed it to 12 volt maybe the coil or the white chalk box before the coil that reduces 12 to 6 volts good luck. Maybe as simple as your points slipped. And wasn’t replaced exactly right. My 3010 is really finicky the pints has got to be exactly right. Or it spit and cough.
I would certainly check the compression. JD specs say 80 minimum. Mine would do about the same it had between 40 and 45 among the four. When I did get it to run it didn't have enough power to even pull its self without dieing.
Randy you may have an issue electrically most likely in the ingnition switch internally.. might want to switch it out and see. A universal switch shouldn't be that hard to find and hook up..
Could also just go straight to the coil with a wire and at least test/eliminate that possibility
All you have to do is loosen the nut on the bottom of the distributor and then start the tractor with throttle about 50% just to make sure it keeps running. Then slowly turn the distributor back or forth until the idle smooths out. SIMPLE AS THAT!
Did you check air breather mine had mouse nest in it
could be a manifold issue. had a tractor run the same and the manifold was rusted out on the back
I didn't see anything wrong with the manifold, but might be worth checking
How do you check the gear oil in the pto. The handle to engage the brush hog there's a cranking noise. maybe it needs gear oil? Is there a dip stick to check it?
I’m not aware of gear oil for the PTO, I’d like to say it is all in with the main transmission, but not sure on that.
It may not have enough compression be cause it’s an up draft carburetor or the generator it pulling power or bad confessor If you changed the battery if you did not reset the points it might have burned them
I think that is part of it, possibly valves, but then also the new condenser went bad.
RDAllen well you’ll figure it out
I’m 75 % sure it’s the carburetor. It shouldn’t be pouring gas out. Either a jet it clogged or the float isn’t right. Those Marvel Shebler carbs are tricky. My Farmall had one originally but never got it right so I got a Zenith to replace it. Try adjusting the carburetor. Look online at a manual. The fuel mix may be too rich. Some old tractors have to be just above the lowest throttle setting. My Farmall needs it just 3 clicks on the lever to start or it won’t because the timing is related to the throttle setting.
I’m also thinking it’s a bad spark plug or the wires aren’t in the right firing order.
You could also buy a remand Zenith from Yesterday tractors or Steiner tractor.
That was my thoughts at first, but we can’t find anything wrong with the carb, the float is working we tested that, and the jets most definitely are not plugged
Have you done a compressions test on it for the piston rings as you might have just one gone which would couse it to splatter but then run good and stop so I would do that if not done already
No haven’t checked, not sure I want to know the results of that test....!
Bad petrol going to need to evacuate the lines
Shouldn’t be, it’s new gas, non ethanol to yet
Throw plugs in it. Mine did this as well. Your tractor is hitting on one even though you see spark on 4.
Iv seen plugs have spark with normal tests but its lost under compression at the electrode.
Rule this out.
Plugs are basically brand new though, only 2-3 hours on them.
Moisture under distributor cap? Jim
I understand that these tractors can be problematic generally. Especially when it comes to the innovative Deck Plate to hold the sleeves in. They abandoned that design the next model. I looked into this model because I found one in nice cosmetic shape and wondered why it was so inexpensive.
Good little tractors, just a pain in the you know where to work on!
Check the batt, could be low, silly i no but... also has weak spark. Hmmmmm. Points poss. Check plug wires, if you get shocked take that plastic off wires could be groundin it self on that plastic, if dont get shocked then coverin okbee :)
Hi
Hi
I had the same problem for years with my 2010. Timing was the cure and now I feel like an idiot for not doing years ago! Good luck.
I’ll have to check that (when it is warmer outside....)!
Dale, I spun the alternator 180 degrees while the tractor was running. Turn it on way til it wants to stall out then turn in the other way until it wants to stall out. Put it right in the middle where it purrs like a kitten. I'm sure there's a way to do it fancy but this is a down and dirty way that works
Dale, yes! The distributor. People are going to rip me apart of that mistake lol. If I'm going to goof I might as well do it on the internet, right?
Dale, I really don't know why the timing goes out so far. There must be a timing mark somewhere. Like I said, this was just the rough and dirty method I used and it was something I randomly tried and it started and ran like a brand new tractor after. It's very hard to find info on 2010s. Not many of them exist anymore and most people hate them with a passion. My grandfather was a John Deere mechanic for a permit of time in his life and that's actually the only reason we had the tractor (no one else would work on it lol). I love this old tractor though.
whats the mounts on the front for
Not sure loader possibly
Did you ever get it running?
Oh yes.
@@radozeman so, what was it? Will you do another video to show the fix?
Which distributor do you have? Mine has the prestolite and I have had problems with it grounding out on the inside. Also recently had similar issues recently and the coil was bad.
I don’t remember which Distributor that is again
Coil
That is what I'm thinking as well
Use ether
Tried it didn’t like that either
Ok
most definitly a misfire
That what I’m starting to think as well
The problem is that it's green
No that is what is right about it