Thanks for a cool and informative video. As a commercial electrician, I'm sure I'll have no problem sending something like this up, but I think I'm going to go with the more simpler basic starter System since my layout is just in one room of the house.
Sparky, you can take the pro cab controller and reprogram the cab to number four and that will allow you to still use the power cab with your system. That will give you to control stations you don’t have to plug and unplug. Thanks for the video. -jack
I think that NCE is overall the best system. I visited and ran trains on the Canada Central layout in Montreal in 2006. That layout was in a room 40' x 140' . It was powered by NCE and was so large it required 3 10 amp boosters in addition to the main command unit. If anyone is interested in seeing that just search "Canada Central .org". Cheers Sparky, great "how to". David.
Thanks Sparky. Very informative. NCE would be my next upgrade to my EZ Command Center in the future. I love that shot of your Conrail parked in the engine house. - Drew
Sparky, Nice job showing the ease of converting your Power Cab system to the Pro Cab system. Don't forget that if you add a curled control line (like the one on the Pro Cab) to the Power Cab that it can be used as a Pro Cab. I have 2 Power Cabs running as Pro Cabs on my layout along with 2 regular Pro Cabs....John
Good luck ! My Power Cab is now more than 8 years young and still great to use but outdated compared to 'wireless' DCC systems. It works great for a small layout and 2 amps will run 3 sound loco's without problems. I now have a bigger layout and I upgrade towards the 'Economical priced' Digikeijs DR5000 - 3 amps. It is a complete system and allows a multitude of 'Cabs'; Multi protocols; Wireless; JMRI or other Train drivers; Wifi build in... See the possibilities of the Z21 app. Compared NCE sadly seems outdated now.... and to expensive too.
I've got a Power Cab and SB5 booster, as well as a Cab06... for about the cost of a smaller utility type cab/throttle, I'm going to add the Wifitrax panel as my next additional cab panel and have up to 4 additional wifi throttles, be that phones, or a TCS throttle, etc... The newer DCC stuff from Digitrax seems nice compared to what they had when I got my power cab , and TCS stuff although a tad pricey also looks like it is taking DCC to the next level. I will look up Digiksijs DR5000. Cheers.
@@isaiahfurrow7414 Thanks for your reply. If I started over today I'd invest in the new Hornby HM7000 - Bluetooth system. One only need the decoder ( sound is about 60£) and a free App on the smartphone. I might as well try it out for it only takes the 'power' of the track. So both systems Power Cab and Bluetooth can cooperate and keep your hobby budget on a nice level. Cheers.
Awesome Sparky, thanks. I am thinking about upgrading to this. My latest videos are me complaining about one of my locos cutting out and not running consistently. I think it's a combination of extremely dirty track and possibly a greater power drain than I had before. Thanks for this video, I wasn't sure how this hooked up with my current NCE Powercab.
Love my sb5 booster I have 3 utp panels so far. I love being able to unplug and move to another panel and not have it all shut down. 😃👍nice tutorial. Oh btw I’m glad you mentioned about the power pack being separate. And I did exactly what you suggested and I use my pcp panel on my workbench program track.
Informative. I was considering upgrading and will now that I know how easy it is. I hate being restricted to a couple of engines which I am with the 2 amp system.
Sparky.... your opening scene is killing me over here. Beautiful locomotives, weathered up really nice and then a plastic looking building. Can you please paint that brick building and then everything in the world will be right. Thanks..... lol Brad
Geez about time you installed the 5 amper. You only have been sitting on it since I got to know you lol. Now you can move around and have more controls.
Instead of buying a whole new system you can purchase a NCE Smart Booster. Reconnect the bus from the Power Cab port to the booster and that gives you the same power as a whole new system would. The Power Cab came with a coiled cord which you haven't been using. Replace the flat cord with the coiled one and the Power Cab throttle will function like any other NCE throttle. And, just as you suggested, the Power Cab port and power supply can be moved to your workbench where at any time you can bring back your Power Cab throttle to use it for programing or trouble shooting. If you're a subscriber to MR Video Plus there is a video there in which David Popp shows how this was done for the Beer Line project layout.
@@jerrysmith1929 the SB is awesome... I have a few things in the works, one is a new test/program track that will end up being a small diorama... that will get the PCP panel as my layout will use the SB5 and the other panels... I also plan to get a Wifitrax module, and use it as one of my cab panels, to add wifi to my layout. Lastly I may add a Wifitrax panel and 2A power supply, to a small portable layout , or some modules , and when needed that can run off the Powercab but have wifi throttles as well... Next project is to come up with the new test track theme and make that... not sure if I will use some Bachmann sectional track I have, or buy some turnouts to go with my few pieces of flex track I've been tinkering with...
So sparky, did you buy that system used? I’ve never heard of the 5 amp system shipping with a power cab in it, so I’m assuming that’s the one you had at the beginning of the video. Also the box is labeled for the radio system and you didn’t get the base station for that either. Congrats on the upgrade, I did the same thing years ago and now that I have the full system I don’t see myself needing to replace it anytime soon. It just works so I can enjoy what’s important, running trains.
Hi Sparky, nice informative video. I use a 2amp NCE Powercab system, it's brilliant, but I do like the idea of being able to unplug and move round the layout without everything going off.................Cheers Dave.
Hi Sparky I have 2 question. How many trains can you run with the controller right out of the box? An when you shut down the controller do you have to reprogram it or does it stay program all the time no matter what? Thank you
the 2 amp system i was running 4 trains with sound. this system should be able to run 10 with ease. and when you shut it off. and then on the next time it does remember what you were doing
I would recommend 5 amp NCE SBS with the starter system. My next plan is to purchase the all new TCS DCC/LCC command station coming this fall. I am now a former Digitrax Loconet user. I had to ditch it this past Christmas.
Sparky, I still use an NCE PowerCab to run my layout, and it works fine with the size of my layout and the number of locos I run at any one time. However, that flat cable that is used with the PowerCab makes me crazy. It keeps getting all twisted up. ...Roy
@@sparky107107 I would like to upgrade, too, Sparky, not because I need more power but because I want to get rid of that darn flat cable that keeps getting all TWISTED UP. Maybe I should look at the NCE wireless system. Your video has really got me thinking about alternatives. ...Roy
Roy, a coiled cord came with you Power Cab. If you purchase and install a NCE Smart Booster you can replace the flat cord with that coiled cord. The Power Cab throttle will work with the Smart Booster like any other throttle.
im in the uk and have the ph-pro 5 amp but cant get the power supply as we are 240v not 120v but been told we only need the wall power supply that plugs int the back of the control plate but its only a 1.5 amp supply so how will it do 5 amp ?
Great video sparky. I just want to know what you did with the old unit. Maybe I can buy it from you as that’s the DCC system I was going to get. Tks William
I have the 2amp but from all the research I've done it seems to me that NCE has done the most to get you running trains quickly not installing a dcc system.
Can you directly wire the 2 amp system to the tracks? A.k.a, can I wire it up just like a simple dc controller with connecting the 2 wires to the track?
Sparky hey question so I hooked this up today ran track wire to bus connected with suitcase connectors to bus red light came on utp and command station sb5 but loco wouldn’t start and no voltage on track?? So I cut the track feeds off and soldered directly to track and loco started? Why wouldn’t it work thru the bus line?
You need to check the connections to be sure the suit case connectors have a snug connection. also you need to twist the bus wire tightly because the signal is sent out in basically a wave. the tighter you intertwine your bus wires the better performance you can achieve. i use a drill and put the wires in the chuck of the drill and slowly twist the wire it works very well with 14/2 house wire spooled loose.
Whats your favorite DCC system? I use digitrax also have their Pr4, DS64's and PM 42 board. Can't say I really like it because I feel I have to press to many buttons to get anything done. It gets the job done just does not feel very ground breaking if you will.
Sparky I notice the power supply has a switch on it 13.5 v and 12v. I currently have it set at 12v. Do I need to go to 13.5v? I didnt try this becuase I dont want to burn anything out.
The 12 is for n gauge and 13.5 is for ho scale I found that out the hard way it was on 12 volt and my trains ran slow switch it to the 13.5 it was better
would be cool to meet up with you ,, can i do a meet the modeler video of your layout,, and you ? i did live there for many years .. but am in Cambridge now
power cab is a basic starter system with 2 amps. If you unplug the controller everything stops. The Power cab is a 5 or 10 amp system, basically more power. All three systems are expandable as required. The controllers are the same, just the power cab the controller is the power source, the pro cab has a separate power source which allows you to unplug the controller.
Thank you, Sparky! That's the next step I have to make when I get the room done. This helps.
Wow cool train set and hall a bord and i got some of your videos in the railroad playlist on my channel bye
cool ty
Thanks, you answered my questions
Thanks for a cool and informative video. As a commercial electrician, I'm sure I'll have no problem sending something like this up, but I think I'm going to go with the more simpler basic starter System since my layout is just in one room of the house.
Sparky, you can take the pro cab controller and reprogram the cab to number four and that will allow you to still use the power cab with your system. That will give you to control stations you don’t have to plug and unplug. Thanks for the video. -jack
I think that NCE is overall the best system. I visited and ran trains on the Canada Central layout in Montreal in 2006. That layout was in a room 40' x 140' . It was powered by NCE and was so large it required 3 10 amp boosters in addition to the main command unit. If anyone is interested in seeing that just search "Canada Central .org". Cheers Sparky, great "how to". David.
Sparky. so nice so easy!! That's a good upgrade more than enough power now. Thanks for sharing
Muse
Thanks Sparky. Very informative. NCE would be my next upgrade to my EZ Command Center in the future. I love that shot of your Conrail parked in the engine house. - Drew
Congratulations on the upgrade Sparky.
I need to get me that DCC system. Thanks for sharing Sparky
Cool demonstration • Cheers from The Detroit & Mackinac Railway 🚂
Congratulations Sparky.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Sparky, Nice job showing the ease of converting your Power Cab system to the Pro Cab system. Don't forget that if you add a curled control line (like the one on the Pro Cab) to the Power Cab that it can be used as a Pro Cab. I have 2 Power Cabs running as Pro Cabs on my layout along with 2 regular Pro Cabs....John
Awesome Sparky! Congrats on the upgrade!
you did good lil bro... no fires..explosions or electrocutions... 2 thumbs up.. vinny
Good luck ! My Power Cab is now more than 8 years young and still great to use but outdated compared to 'wireless' DCC systems. It works great for a small layout and 2 amps will run 3 sound loco's without problems. I now have a bigger layout and I upgrade towards the 'Economical priced' Digikeijs DR5000 - 3 amps. It is a complete system and allows a multitude of 'Cabs'; Multi protocols; Wireless; JMRI or other Train drivers; Wifi build in... See the possibilities of the Z21 app. Compared NCE sadly seems outdated now.... and to expensive too.
I've got a Power Cab and SB5 booster, as well as a Cab06... for about the cost of a smaller utility type cab/throttle, I'm going to add the Wifitrax panel as my next additional cab panel and have up to 4 additional wifi throttles, be that phones, or a TCS throttle, etc...
The newer DCC stuff from Digitrax seems nice compared to what they had when I got my power cab , and TCS stuff although a tad pricey also looks like it is taking DCC to the next level.
I will look up Digiksijs DR5000.
Cheers.
@@isaiahfurrow7414 Thanks for your reply. If I started over today I'd invest in the new Hornby HM7000 - Bluetooth system. One only need the decoder ( sound is about 60£) and a free App on the smartphone. I might as well try it out for it only takes the 'power' of the track. So both systems Power Cab and Bluetooth can cooperate and keep your hobby budget on a nice level. Cheers.
Awesome Sparky, thanks. I am thinking about upgrading to this. My latest videos are me complaining about one of my locos cutting out and not running consistently. I think it's a combination of extremely dirty track and possibly a greater power drain than I had before. Thanks for this video, I wasn't sure how this hooked up with my current NCE Powercab.
Excellent how to video sparky.... I did not know nce kill power to the track
Nice upgrade from the 2 amp. Helpful since I'm still at the basic 2 amp level. Thanks, Sparky!! - Dean from cold Minnesota
Have you expanded beyond the 2A Power Cab system?
Love my sb5 booster I have 3 utp panels so far. I love being able to unplug and move to another panel and not have it all shut down. 😃👍nice tutorial. Oh btw I’m glad you mentioned about the power pack being separate. And I did exactly what you suggested and I use my pcp panel on my workbench program track.
that is my favorite part, unplugging and trains are still going
sparky107107 definitely is a grey feature. I want to get a second throttle.
Nice video sparky,now you have me in the market for a 5amp system.
Great video Sparky, now you got me thinking about upgrade from the 2 amp. Guess I better put that on my wish list. Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Cary
Thank you sir for the great tutorial. Looks easy enough. Thanks for sharing. Not BAAAD..., Wilmer-IHVRR
Awesome video Sparky! I have the Broadway Limited Big Boy (that's the only HO train I have lol) maybe I'll pick on of these up. Thanks for posting.
Informative. I was considering upgrading and will now that I know how easy it is. I hate being restricted to a couple of engines which I am with the 2 amp system.
Sparky.... your opening scene is killing me over here. Beautiful locomotives, weathered up really nice and then a plastic looking building. Can you please paint that brick building and then everything in the world will be right. Thanks..... lol
Brad
but that was a gift. lol and not part of the layout as of yet. it is just sitting there
Wow, no power supply hummm!? But that was much easier than I thought, thanks for the video.
Geez about time you installed the 5 amper. You only have been sitting on it since I got to know you lol. Now you can move around and have more controls.
yes. it has been sitting under the desk for a long time .
THANK YOU OTHER DETAIL VIDEO ON YOUR LAYOUT
nice how to Sparky also the other controller will work with the 5 amp system too Chuck RVRR
Instead of buying a whole new system you can purchase a NCE Smart Booster. Reconnect the bus from the Power Cab port to the booster and that gives you the same power as a whole new system would. The Power Cab came with a coiled cord which you haven't been using. Replace the flat cord with the coiled one and the Power Cab throttle will function like any other NCE throttle. And, just as you suggested, the Power Cab port and power supply can be moved to your workbench where at any time you can bring back your Power Cab throttle to use it for programing or trouble shooting. If you're a subscriber to MR Video Plus there is a video there in which David Popp shows how this was done for the Beer Line project layout.
The Smart Booster will be supplying the power so the Power Cab throttle no longer must be kept connected to keep trains running.
@@jerrysmith1929 the SB is awesome...
I have a few things in the works, one is a new test/program track that will end up being a small diorama... that will get the PCP panel as my layout will use the SB5 and the other panels... I also plan to get a Wifitrax module, and use it as one of my cab panels, to add wifi to my layout.
Lastly I may add a Wifitrax panel and 2A power supply, to a small portable layout , or some modules , and when needed that can run off the Powercab but have wifi throttles as well...
Next project is to come up with the new test track theme and make that... not sure if I will use some Bachmann sectional track I have, or buy some turnouts to go with my few pieces of flex track I've been tinkering with...
Great channel I came from Pusa Studios to say Hi and share the love :>)
You have the version with the AC power supply. They are moving to a DC version because of European market.
Well done.
Awesome 👍 I dropped a like and hit the big red support button stay connected my friend
Nice maybe one day i will have one
Cool tutorial. Planning on purchasing the NCE system in the near future. Curious; could power cab act as a regular cab on you 5amp system?
yes it does
Yes! The great thing with NCE is all their products are interoperable/addable to each other.
New supporter here from Pusa's live stream
great video tfs
So sparky, did you buy that system used? I’ve never heard of the 5 amp system shipping with a power cab in it, so I’m assuming that’s the one you had at the beginning of the video. Also the box is labeled for the radio system and you didn’t get the base station for that either. Congrats on the upgrade, I did the same thing years ago and now that I have the full system I don’t see myself needing to replace it anytime soon. It just works so I can enjoy what’s important, running trains.
i might have mixed up some of the parts, lol ,, and yes the wireless system is next.. i just wanted to get this up and running first
Hi Sparky, nice informative video. I use a 2amp NCE Powercab system, it's brilliant, but I do like the idea of being able to unplug and move round the layout without everything going off.................Cheers Dave.
Hi Sparky I have 2 question. How many trains can you run with the controller right out of the box? An when you shut down the controller do you have to reprogram it or does it stay program all the time no matter what? Thank you
the 2 amp system i was running 4 trains with sound. this system should be able to run 10 with ease. and when you shut it off. and then on the next time it does remember what you were doing
Wow thats a lot of trains. Thank you for the reply keep up the great videos
I would recommend 5 amp NCE SBS with the starter system. My next plan is to purchase the all new TCS DCC/LCC command station coming this fall. I am now a former Digitrax Loconet user. I had to ditch it this past Christmas.
TCS I agree
Sparky, I still use an NCE PowerCab to run my layout, and it works fine with the size of my layout and the number of locos I run at any one time. However, that flat cable that is used with the PowerCab makes me crazy. It keeps getting all twisted up. ...Roy
my layout is not very big either. but for 2 or 3 people. this just makes it easier.
@@sparky107107 I would like to upgrade, too, Sparky, not because I need more power but because I want to get rid of that darn flat cable that keeps getting all TWISTED UP. Maybe I should look at the NCE wireless system. Your video has really got me thinking about alternatives. ...Roy
Roy, a coiled cord came with you Power Cab. If you purchase and install a NCE Smart Booster you can replace the flat cord with that coiled cord. The Power Cab throttle will work with the Smart Booster like any other throttle.
@@jerrysmith1929 Thank you, Jerry. I really, really appreciate that suggestion. I like your suggestion so much that I'm going to do it. ...Roy
im in the uk and have the ph-pro 5 amp but cant get the power supply as we are 240v not 120v but been told we only need the wall power supply that plugs int the back of the control plate but its only a 1.5 amp supply so how will it do 5 amp ?
Great video sparky. I just want to know what you did with the old unit. Maybe I can buy it from you as that’s the DCC system I was going to get. Tks William
remind me next video.. i will test out my other third system sunday
send me a text on my cell phone. 1-519-841-6214
This is great! Good job!
I have the 2amp but from all the research I've done it seems to me that NCE has done the most to get you running trains quickly not installing a dcc system.
Can you directly wire the 2 amp system to the tracks? A.k.a, can I wire it up just like a simple dc controller with connecting the 2 wires to the track?
yes
1 thing you may miss with the procab. The powercab measures track current. The procab does not. Doesn't make sense.
i never used that feature
Sparky hey question so I hooked this up today ran track wire to bus connected with suitcase connectors to bus red light came on utp and command station sb5 but loco wouldn’t start and no voltage on track?? So I cut the track feeds off and soldered directly to track and loco started? Why wouldn’t it work thru the bus line?
You need to check the connections to be sure the suit case connectors have a snug connection.
also you need to twist the bus wire tightly because the signal is sent out in basically a wave. the tighter you intertwine your bus wires the better performance you can achieve. i use a drill and put the wires in the chuck of the drill and slowly twist the wire it works very well with 14/2 house wire spooled loose.
Can a friend plug their Power Cab into the extra plug and run a train or two also ?
yes
The red power LED on the front does that stay on
yes
Whats your favorite DCC system? I use digitrax also have their Pr4, DS64's and PM 42 board. Can't say I really like it because I feel I have to press to many buttons to get anything done. It gets the job done just does not feel very ground breaking if you will.
Sparky I notice the power supply has a switch on it 13.5 v and 12v. I currently have it set at 12v. Do I need to go to 13.5v? I didnt try this becuase I dont want to burn anything out.
mine is set at what the factory setting is. and have never had to change it
The 12 is for n gauge and 13.5 is for ho scale I found that out the hard way it was on 12 volt and my trains ran slow switch it to the 13.5 it was better
Any reason you went with this instead of adding the SB5?
next video shows more.. but i wanted the 2 amp system for either the office.. or the little girl
@@sparky107107 Ahh, gotcha. As suspected, sound reasoning.
13.5 for ho and 12 is for N on the sb 5
Hi There, I take it you are from st Thomas or close to area, I am in st Thomas too and have a layout , working on a second level
would be cool to meet up with you ,, can i do a meet the modeler video of your layout,, and you ? i did live there for many years .. but am in Cambridge now
All you had to do was buy the SB5 for $200 and connected it to the Power Cab. The controller becomes a Pro Cab and you save money
there is more to this ,,,,,,,yet
That 5 amp NCE system is NiCE! See how I did that there? Nyuk nyuk nyuk
very nice and very NCE . ha
Can you daisy chain for more amps?
it is better to put them on a blacking system, 5 amps for each area of the layout, more amps would be bad if you end up with a short.
Nice video and helpful.
Would you know what is the difference between the Pro Cab and the Power Cab? Thanks.
Phil
power cab is a basic starter system with 2 amps. If you unplug the controller everything stops. The Power cab is a 5 or 10 amp system, basically more power. All three systems are expandable as required. The controllers are the same, just the power cab the controller is the power source, the pro cab has a separate power source which allows you to unplug the controller.
@@Offroadnovascotia Thanks for the info. Appreciated.
Phil
Hello new friend here from the live chat. Great 👍🏼 video. Hope we can connect and support each other. Thanks👍🏼💕🥰
nearly identical to MRC system
they are very close to the same thing
Can’t hear. Noisy.
Turn captions on clown
I’m just kidding lol, but yeah captions should work