Just future note to anyone doing a timing belt. Install the belt by hand. Put all the slack on the tensioner side. Put the spring on the tensioner and attach it to the pin on the block. Turn the engine over 2x and make sure the marks align. Finally you cant adjust can timing with the distributor. You did a great job of making sure things were clean. I commend you on that
A tip I found out in real action for putting on the timing belt without pulling off the pully, adjusting the tensioner, etc. is to use a extra long (large) flat head screwdriver and push down on the tensioner to reduce the tension. It is just visible at the top looking down inside the timing cover underneath the intake cam side. Worked great for me, made it really easy to put on the belt. Wish I found it out earlier in my project but glad I found on nonetheless. Yeah yeah, I know, "you're going to stretch your spring," but luckily the tensioner won't allow you to pull the spring far enough to even worry about damaging it, you stretch it further just putting on the spring. Hope this helps some of you folks!
i know im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!
@Connor Allen Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
The bolt on the end of the Cam gear is 37-44 ft lbs which is noted at 5:00 as an annotation however CZcams has KILLED annotations especially for mobile users. That spec is going to come in handy for anyone trying to replace the cam seal. ;)
Wonderful video. FF is something no one ever does. I want to change out my valve guide seals. But I dont want to deal with new belts. Someone posted you can zip tie the sprockets to the belt and hang from hood and then remove the shafts. Not sure if that is possible. Are springs accessible for removal?
The North American 1993-2002 626 does not have a cabin air filter. The European/Asian 1998-2002 GLX version I believe does have a cabin air filter which would be located behind the glovebox.
i have a car of same model as video 4 cylinder and it got the heads assembled but me and my friend cant figure out why the I and E when they do match the timing belt is a little bit loose and we turn the engine and it tightens only when they're moved to a certain different place and i hope u can give us some advice on what to do on that thanks!!!
To find TDC compression stroke. You remove #1 spark plug (only) have a parter cover the hole with there hand and you turn the crank shaft clockwise until your helper feels air pushing out. Then you stop and line up the crank pulley with the timing mark located on the top (timing cover) that’s true TDC compression stroke. 4 stroke combustion cycle: Intake, compression, combustion, exhaust.
Yeah I really don't see that working out too well. That's very creative but I'd have to see it to believe it. ;) When you remove a camshaft then the HLA will pop right out (using a magnet). The valve springs are right there and accessible but not easy to remove with the head still on the car. It is possible though and there are tricks to doing it, do a browser search. I've never personally done it but I've seen it done with good success.
I don't have one on checking for coolant leaks but I do have a video on the radiator removal process (ATX to MTX Swap Part 1). Installation is just the reverse of removal plus adding new transmission fluid. Hope there's something in it that will help you out.
the HLAs especially at first fitting into head. make sure the hole is facing the hole on the cylinder. also i wish if there was the part when you have torqued the head bolts.
Not sure what you mean by "hole facing the hole on the cylinder". They'll only really go in there one way but the alignment does matter. If possible align them the same exact way they were in there previously. I do show torque on the head bolts but only a couple of them for demonstration purposes. I don't show tightening each one down because that's redundant. If you see one tightened down you've seen them all no? Is that what you were asking?
can you help me with advice; I have a Toyota celica 2001 and recently I replaced one of the shafts of the head and now while im driving it suddenly when turn to neutral the car goes down and the engine stops, I turn it on again and the engine keeps steady, (the revolutions in the odometer looks normal) but later it happens again, I hope you understand my English and hope you can help me letting me know what I need to do fix this problem thx DJdeVon
I decided to take on the head gasket replacement. I’m at the point of putting the t belt back on. I cannot get the thing back on for the life of me. It super tight. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you.
Well that question is fairly broad. Could be due to rust or a blockage. If it's a blockage then it can be cleaned and reinstalled. If it's rusted through then it will need to be replaced. The EGR tubes carry very very hot exhaust gas the same as your muffler (as an example). If it rust through and vents that hot gas into the engine bay it could melt components or sensors nearby. If you know it must be replaced then replace it, otherwise clean out the inside of the tube and reinstall.
DJDevon, How do you install the camshaft sprocket/pulley onto the camshaft for the mazda 626 2.0 FS engine. The sprockets have to slots to position onto the dowel pin. How do you know which slot to position the sprocket onto the camshaft?
Honestly you put it together and when it's laid into resting position if the I or E mark is 90 degrees off, you take it apart and put it in the other pin. :/ This is why we mark alignment of things when we disassemble things. :)
Try adjusting the timing belt tensioner and check the tensioner spring. a loose timing belt is usually just a matter of getting the proper tension on it. Then when you turn it over manually with a wrench it should automatically tighten. Bring it around 360 and if the marks still line up then you're good to go.
Just FWIW - I changed my timing belt last week. I just couldn't get the timing belt on with all marks lined up correctly, it was a half-tooth off on the crank. Wouldn't go on snug. Finally, I turned the crank just the slightest pinch counter-clockwise - a half-tooth off TDC - to make easy slack for sliding half-on the cam gears and the crank gear. Then, I pulled the tensioner to slide the belt on, released tension, and in that process it turned the crank just that half tooth, and all the marks lined up perfectly.
where did you buy the valve stem seals from? How did the valve stem steal perform overtime? Do you know who is the manufacturer of the valve stem seal?
Heya DjDevon. Nice vid. But I have problem. I wanna change piston rings without taking engine from the bay. But I just cant take out the oil sump. All the bolts released but nothing. It wont go off. I heard there may be deep hided two bolts but cant find. Maybe you could help or post. vid of this
When you say something about top dead center being on the compression or exauat stroke... Does that have something to do with putting the timing belt in correctly..?
Well yes and no. You must first put the timing belt on correctly and align everything to be true before you'll know exactly which stroke is compression or exhaust. So it's pretty important to get the timing belt, cams, and crank shaft all aligned correctly regardless.
i installed the belt today and man it was a pain in the ass i did tge same as you everything almost an hour trying to install the belt once i installes it i turned the engine and it didnt get stucked so tomorrow ill keep on it
I can tell you and show how much of a pain in the ass it is but until you do it yourself you won't appreciate the difficulties involved. Congrats on working on your vehicle and thanks for your comments. Keep at it, good luck!
All 1997-2002 Mazda 626 engines (FP, FS, KL) are non-interference engines. There is little worry about valvetrain damage in the event of a broken timing belt. Out of the tens of thousands of topics on Mazda626.net I've only ever seen 1 instance of valve train damage from a broken timing belt. That's about 10,000:1 probability and suggests that there was something else going on in that 1 instance that wasn't explained such as broken valve spring retainers due to an accident. You could have the timing completely 360 degrees out and it won't mash valves. Such is the advantage to a non-interference engine design. One downside is lower HP due to the piston and valve relief design compared to an interference designed counterpart. These engines are designed for longevity and endurance not performance. You have a better chance of getting struck by lightning than mashing your 626's valves due to a broken timing belt.
***** well I must say that I feel pretty relieve because that belt it´s pretty expensive where i live, and I am not sure if the previous owner had changed it. thanks a lot for make that clear.
Victor Muñoz Herrera This is one of many reasons why people interested in real automotive repair and engine work should choose a Mazda for their experimental car to cut their teeth and gain experience without too much worry of destroying something. It's a great vehicle for learning diagnostics and repair. That's something that isn't really discussed often. There are tons of people that have purposefully picked up a 626, MX6, Probe, or Protege just to learn auto repair. They are excellent platforms for the first timer who wants to get serious learning about cars and not just driving them. That's why these vehicles have such a following. If you want to elevate your knowledge and learn how to fix basic things on cars in my opinion there is no better and safer platform to start your journey.
el video ayuda , pero no es la forma correcta de colocar la correa de distribucion...no puedes forzar la correa ni menos con atornilladores , todo por que no es la forma correcta ....primero se parte colocandola desde el piñon del cigueñal siguiendo por los ejes de levas y al final por el tensor , ya que como esta destensado y es lizo la correa entra sin los inconvenientes que se mostraron aca y sin correr el riesgo de dañar la misma correa......
The CKP generates it's own voltage so you should do a voltage reading on the sensor itself. If you have a CKP code I'd start there. Do a search for CKP sensors and how they work. If the ECU doesn't see any voltage from the CKP not only will it refuse to start but will disable the injectors too. ;) You'll be cranking all day scratching your head. :P Check for wiring integrity the CKP sensor wire loves to get munched by the crank pulley and belts. Look for fraying on the CKP. Also clean it the CKP as an extreme amount of gunk can foul the sensor.
Christopher Botten I just checked RockAuto.com and you can get the struts and coils individually. Look under 1998 626 2.0L DOHC. Unfortunately the springs are only available from Europe but it's better than nothing. Get one that is for a Saloon. Saloon = Sedan. Struts/Shocks are very much available from RockAuto. Perhaps you were looking in the wrong section?
It was a PITA and tore up my fingers something awful. By the end of the day felt like I dipped my fingers in acid. I don't want to go into the lengthy reason why I did it that way. Suffice to say I didn't have much choice at that point.
Great point as it's not shown in the video. Definitely a mistake. Checking head and lash tolerance is an important step post-rebuild. In order to check HLA's they have to be re-primed and warm oil circulated through them. That means the engine needs to be fully assembled and running for a while. Then you have to go back and remove the valve cover and check the tolerances. You can't really check them during that stage of reassembly, it's something you have to go back to do and I don't think I did. :/ Brilliant question. It's different for GF models that have solid lash adjusters as they can be checked at that stage of reassembly. Hydraulic lash adjusters are different, they take time to prime with hot oil circulating through them. With an HLA engine the clacking will be loud when the engine is first run. It took a few minutes for everything to get lubricated and working again, that's when I should have gone back in to check the health and tolerance of the HLA's. You're absolutely correct to point this out.
1- 2 hours to get the belt on my hairy white arse release the tensioner and pul it out of the way, get the belt started on the crank. ONLY PUT IT ON HALF WAY. then work up past the water pump pulley and around the exhaust cam sprocket, only put on half way, zip tie in place, work on to the intake sprocket, the push the little extra out of the tensioner and push the belt on. then go back around and push the belt all the way on, easy peasy...check time and you are GTGO
maybe ? a shop would prob charge you 6 hours and do it in one. lol. but of course doing it at home, not knowing the tricks, looking for tools. waiting for nice weather. I get it. I just assumed you meant you spent a whole hour just getting the belt to slip on .
Yes that is actually what I meant. 1 hour just to get the belt on. Because it's so tight and you have to be very careful. Eh maybe I'm just slow but that's how long it took me the first time. About an hour just for the belt. I didn't expect it to be that tight. I've never seen a belt that tight in my life. It's as if it's too small and I'm still not convinced they're selling these timing belts as the correct belt for the application. Only way to know for sure is to buy an OEM belt but that's big money for someone like me on a SUPER SUPER tight budget. On my 2nd belt job I got it done in 20 minutes, on my 3rd one it was 10 minutes. So I did get better at it. ;P
For the 93-97 Mazda 626/Cronos you can attempt to recondition an HLA but usually the best policy is to replace them. There is no way to truly test HLA performance to my knowledge. Best you can do is use a vise for compression and if the HLA does not open back up then it's gunked up internally. You can attempt to take them apart but I've found that is a very hard thing to do. It's easier to purchase new ones from Mazda. Replacing every HLA is expensive so reconditioning them becomes an appealing proposition. There are tutorials online on how to recondition HLA's but in my opinion if you have the money just find the broken ones and replace them. HLA's do not last a lifetime because there is a spring inside and like any spring it can wear out. The 1998-2002 Mazda 626 uses SLA or solid lash adjusters. They can be reconditioned and/or shimmed. For shimming SLA's I highly recommend getting in touch with an automotive machine shop to do that type of work.
I didn't trust my own strength that day as the previous day I broke something without much effort. I was getting stronger and didn't know or trust my own strength.
just a word of advice for the cam caps, don't make my mistake. DOUBLE CHECK your torque wrench and make sure its set properly and that your "hand tight" hasn't already passed the torque spec, I kept turning bc my wrench didn't click. I knew it had to be too tight and I BROKE A BOLT. real PIA.
That sucks! Getting out a broken bolt of any kind requires specialized tools that most casual DIY'er don't have or don't use properly. I recommend laying plastic sheeting around the area to catch any metal slivers from the helicoil or backout process. I've broken plenty of bolts and it sucks big time. I broke a valve cover bolt in the timing belt and water pump video on camera, I wasn't using a torch wrench. Hurts the soul every time you shear one off. I feel your pain.
eh, its not so bad, left hand dril bits,easy outs, drill and tap, all pretty cheap and just require a little patients. or just let it slide and hope for the best lol
I actually was using a torque wrench , apparently it wasn't functioning properly, I knew I was over torqueing it and didn't stop. Lesson learned, stay calm and don't get in too big of a hurry or you'll cost yourself a LOT of time in the long run
The same exact thing happened to me, but with 3 bolts. Translated the manual wrong from American system to Newton meyer and broke 3 bolts. Took 5 hours to take them all out.
Yes, order of the HLA installation doesn't matter, only the torque sequence of the cam caps matter. Drop them in there in any order you want. They just drop into place no big deal.
Local engine machinists actually have catalogs for stuff like that. I was interested in the SLA's for the GF 626 just out of curiosity and he actually looked up the specs for it in a catalog. I thought that was pretty neat. Find the right machine shop, they have access to every engine spec you can imagine from big block chevy's and toyota camry's to porche and exotics. From shims to thrust bearing tolerances, they know all that stuff. A good portion of this rebuild was possible because of my local machinist.
Thankyou DJ Devon. I've looked and looked for videos and can't find anything specific to that motor. I'm a little limited on head space for all the internet research due to two concussions. It really wearing me down. Any help or link is gratefully appreciated
Either you are losing battery power, spark, or fuel. I would recommend seeking a professional. I'm sorry I cannot diagnose issues through CZcams comments.
+alberto nunez Translations in other languages can be user submitted for this video. You can submit a translation file through this link I think... czcams.com/users/timedtext_video?v=3FHQqISRcX0&ref=share I've never done it before so I don't if it will work or not. I will need my viewers who speak multiple languages to let me know if user submissions will work from that link or not.
dj devon3 I have a Mazda mx6 1995 2.0l 5 speed manual just like the one in your videos iv ordered my new engine top and bottom seals your videos have been very helpful and im days away from rebuild my engine you have a lot of good tips and if there's anything I should probably to help make it easier .. email me at nickmidili@yahoo.com im changing the water pump ,maybe oil pump , timing belt and ext , all seals for the most part ...the car has 60,000 miles and has been sitting for a while it leaks some oil and id rather rebuild
Sorry I do not email anyone directly and I recommend you remove your email address from your comment unless you like tons of spam from posting it in a public place. Best advice I can give you is to ensure you have all the right tools and a torque wrench. You will likely run into unforseen issues if this is your first time. If you have questions about something specific I can help with sure. I did this project like 5 years ago. I barely remember what I had for breakfast. Everything I did is documented the best I could with what I had available.
where did you buy the valve stem seals from? How did the valve stem steal perform overtime? Do you know who is the manufacturer of the valve stem seal?
Just future note to anyone doing a timing belt.
Install the belt by hand. Put all the slack on the tensioner side.
Put the spring on the tensioner and attach it to the pin on the block.
Turn the engine over 2x and make sure the marks align.
Finally you cant adjust can timing with the distributor.
You did a great job of making sure things were clean. I commend you on that
A tip I found out in real action for putting on the timing belt without pulling off the pully, adjusting the tensioner, etc. is to use a extra long (large) flat head screwdriver and push down on the tensioner to reduce the tension. It is just visible at the top looking down inside the timing cover underneath the intake cam side. Worked great for me, made it really easy to put on the belt. Wish I found it out earlier in my project but glad I found on nonetheless. Yeah yeah, I know, "you're going to stretch your spring," but luckily the tensioner won't allow you to pull the spring far enough to even worry about damaging it, you stretch it further just putting on the spring. Hope this helps some of you folks!
i know im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!
@Romeo Cash Instablaster =)
@Connor Allen Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and im trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Connor Allen it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
@Romeo Cash no problem =)
FYI for anyone watching.. take the tensioner OFF and then bolt it on after the belts on. It doesn't have to be hard.
The bolt on the end of the Cam gear is 37-44 ft lbs which is noted at 5:00 as an annotation however CZcams has KILLED annotations especially for mobile users. That spec is going to come in handy for anyone trying to replace the cam seal. ;)
thanks for your video im working on my wifes mazda and i can tell its a pain in the butt the belt greetings from puerto rico 😎💪
Wonderful video. FF is something no one ever does. I want to change out my valve guide seals. But I dont want to deal with new belts. Someone posted you can zip tie the sprockets to the belt and hang from hood and then remove the shafts. Not sure if that is possible. Are springs accessible for removal?
Muy buena, es lo que yo buscaba, thank you very much.
+Richard Funés Glad it could help you. Good luck with your project!
I used the rubber hammer to put the timing belt back tho the cams.. No pain finger at all!
The North American 1993-2002 626 does not have a cabin air filter. The European/Asian 1998-2002 GLX version I believe does have a cabin air filter which would be located behind the glovebox.
i have a car of same model as video 4 cylinder and it got the heads assembled but me and my friend cant figure out why the I and E when they do match the timing belt is a little bit loose and we turn the engine and it tightens only when they're moved to a certain different place and i hope u can give us some advice on what to do on that thanks!!!
To find TDC compression stroke. You remove #1 spark plug (only) have a parter cover the hole with there hand and you turn the crank shaft clockwise until your helper feels air pushing out. Then you stop and line up the crank pulley with the timing mark located on the top (timing cover) that’s true TDC compression stroke. 4 stroke combustion cycle: Intake, compression, combustion, exhaust.
I used a 1/2 inch PVC pipe with Balloon on the end when the Balloon blows up exhaust/ combustion stroke.
Yeah I really don't see that working out too well. That's very creative but I'd have to see it to believe it. ;) When you remove a camshaft then the HLA will pop right out (using a magnet). The valve springs are right there and accessible but not easy to remove with the head still on the car. It is possible though and there are tricks to doing it, do a browser search. I've never personally done it but I've seen it done with good success.
I don't have one on checking for coolant leaks but I do have a video on the radiator removal process (ATX to MTX Swap Part 1). Installation is just the reverse of removal plus adding new transmission fluid. Hope there's something in it that will help you out.
the HLAs especially at first fitting into head. make sure the hole is facing the hole on the cylinder. also i wish if there was the part when you have torqued the head bolts.
So did your cams line up exactly how you disassembled them? And how do you know your at TDC compression stroke?
Wish I knew the same
Not sure what you mean by "hole facing the hole on the cylinder". They'll only really go in there one way but the alignment does matter. If possible align them the same exact way they were in there previously.
I do show torque on the head bolts but only a couple of them for demonstration purposes. I don't show tightening each one down because that's redundant. If you see one tightened down you've seen them all no? Is that what you were asking?
really thank you very much for your answers too know thanks .....
can you help me with advice; I have a Toyota celica 2001 and recently I replaced one of the shafts of the head and now while im driving it suddenly when turn to neutral the car goes down and the engine stops, I turn it on again and the engine keeps steady, (the revolutions in the odometer looks normal) but later it happens again, I hope you understand my English and hope you can help me letting me know what I need to do fix this problem thx DJdeVon
I decided to take on the head gasket replacement. I’m at the point of putting the t belt back on. I cannot get the thing back on for the life of me. It super tight. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you.
I did another video on replacing the timing belt for the I4, it's much more detailed. czcams.com/video/aEfEmqJDYzs/video.html
thank you very much for your contribution, could you tell me what is the torque for the cam shaft
100-126 inch pounds of torque. Be sure to use inch pounds!!!!
Well that question is fairly broad. Could be due to rust or a blockage. If it's a blockage then it can be cleaned and reinstalled. If it's rusted through then it will need to be replaced. The EGR tubes carry very very hot exhaust gas the same as your muffler (as an example). If it rust through and vents that hot gas into the engine bay it could melt components or sensors nearby. If you know it must be replaced then replace it, otherwise clean out the inside of the tube and reinstall.
DJDevon, How do you install the camshaft sprocket/pulley onto the camshaft for the mazda 626 2.0 FS engine. The sprockets have to slots to position onto the dowel pin. How do you know which slot to position the sprocket onto the camshaft?
Honestly you put it together and when it's laid into resting position if the I or E mark is 90 degrees off, you take it apart and put it in the other pin. :/ This is why we mark alignment of things when we disassemble things. :)
Try adjusting the timing belt tensioner and check the tensioner spring. a loose timing belt is usually just a matter of getting the proper tension on it. Then when you turn it over manually with a wrench it should automatically tighten. Bring it around 360 and if the marks still line up then you're good to go.
Just FWIW - I changed my timing belt last week. I just couldn't get the timing belt on with all marks lined up correctly, it was a half-tooth off on the crank. Wouldn't go on snug. Finally, I turned the crank just the slightest pinch counter-clockwise - a half-tooth off TDC - to make easy slack for sliding half-on the cam gears and the crank gear. Then, I pulled the tensioner to slide the belt on, released tension, and in that process it turned the crank just that half tooth, and all the marks lined up perfectly.
Я в низу на коленвале ремень надеваю.удобно и без усилий.
where did you buy the valve stem seals from? How did the valve stem steal perform overtime? Do you know who is the manufacturer of the valve stem seal?
Heya DjDevon. Nice vid. But I have problem. I wanna change piston rings without taking engine from the bay. But I just cant take out the oil sump. All the bolts released but nothing. It wont go off. I heard there may be deep hided two bolts but cant find. Maybe you could help or post. vid of this
Lina Gargasaite Read the factory procedures available at pmx626.info. I do not have a video for piston removal.
Lina you are sou beautifull. 😘😘😘
Using a C clamp would have made the process more tedious but it would have saved my fingers from a lot of abuse. Good idea.
amigo ayúdame con esto ¿en donde tiene el filtro anti polen (filtro del habitáculo) nuesto mazda 626 ??? gracias...
When you say something about top dead center being on the compression or exauat stroke... Does that have something to do with putting the timing belt in correctly..?
Well yes and no. You must first put the timing belt on correctly and align everything to be true before you'll know exactly which stroke is compression or exhaust. So it's pretty important to get the timing belt, cams, and crank shaft all aligned correctly regardless.
i installed the belt today and man it was a pain in the ass i did tge same as you everything almost an hour trying to install the belt once i installes it i turned the engine and it didnt get stucked so tomorrow ill keep on it
I can tell you and show how much of a pain in the ass it is but until you do it yourself you won't appreciate the difficulties involved. Congrats on working on your vehicle and thanks for your comments. Keep at it, good luck!
Hi, we just bought a 2001 mazda 626, but i would like to know if the distribution belt breaks down, then it bends the valves?
All 1997-2002 Mazda 626 engines (FP, FS, KL) are non-interference engines. There is little worry about valvetrain damage in the event of a broken timing belt. Out of the tens of thousands of topics on Mazda626.net I've only ever seen 1 instance of valve train damage from a broken timing belt. That's about 10,000:1 probability and suggests that there was something else going on in that 1 instance that wasn't explained such as broken valve spring retainers due to an accident. You could have the timing completely 360 degrees out and it won't mash valves. Such is the advantage to a non-interference engine design. One downside is lower HP due to the piston and valve relief design compared to an interference designed counterpart. These engines are designed for longevity and endurance not performance. You have a better chance of getting struck by lightning than mashing your 626's valves due to a broken timing belt.
***** well I must say that I feel pretty relieve because that belt it´s pretty expensive where i live, and I am not sure if the previous owner had changed it.
thanks a lot for make that clear.
Victor Muñoz Herrera This is one of many reasons why people interested in real automotive repair and engine work should choose a Mazda for their experimental car to cut their teeth and gain experience without too much worry of destroying something. It's a great vehicle for learning diagnostics and repair. That's something that isn't really discussed often. There are tons of people that have purposefully picked up a 626, MX6, Probe, or Protege just to learn auto repair. They are excellent platforms for the first timer who wants to get serious learning about cars and not just driving them. That's why these vehicles have such a following. If you want to elevate your knowledge and learn how to fix basic things on cars in my opinion there is no better and safer platform to start your journey.
adding to the problem I have when I say the car goes down and the engine stops I mean that the rpm suddenly drops and the car goes off. thx
i got a problem my car needs a egr tube not sure why ?
el video ayuda , pero no es la forma correcta de colocar la correa de distribucion...no puedes forzar la correa ni menos con atornilladores , todo por que no es la forma correcta ....primero se parte colocandola desde el piñon del cigueñal siguiendo por los ejes de levas y al final por el tensor , ya que como esta destensado y es lizo la correa entra sin los inconvenientes que se mostraron aca y sin correr el riesgo de dañar la misma correa......
Hey D . I need your help ...My 02 mazda 626 has no power to crank position sensor .but got power at coilpack .Nelson in Sebastian Florida
The CKP generates it's own voltage so you should do a voltage reading on the sensor itself. If you have a CKP code I'd start there. Do a search for CKP sensors and how they work. If the ECU doesn't see any voltage from the CKP not only will it refuse to start but will disable the injectors too. ;) You'll be cranking all day scratching your head. :P Check for wiring integrity the CKP sensor wire loves to get munched by the crank pulley and belts. Look for fraying on the CKP. Also clean it the CKP as an extreme amount of gunk can foul the sensor.
@@DJDevon3 thanks
Any idea where I might be able to get full strut assemblies for a 98 or at least the coil springs...I can't find them anywhere
Have you tried RockAuto.com?
Yes
Christopher Botten
Then I would go to a local auto parts store like Advance, AutoZone, Napa, OReilys, etc...
Tried all of them already...can't find any new ones that are a complete set or even the coil by itself
Christopher Botten
I just checked RockAuto.com and you can get the struts and coils individually. Look under 1998 626 2.0L DOHC. Unfortunately the springs are only available from Europe but it's better than nothing. Get one that is for a Saloon. Saloon = Sedan. Struts/Shocks are very much available from RockAuto. Perhaps you were looking in the wrong section?
The rebuild was definitely the harder of the two, by far.
It was a PITA and tore up my fingers something awful. By the end of the day felt like I dipped my fingers in acid. I don't want to go into the lengthy reason why I did it that way. Suffice to say I didn't have much choice at that point.
Did you ever test your valve lash?
Great point as it's not shown in the video. Definitely a mistake. Checking head and lash tolerance is an important step post-rebuild. In order to check HLA's they have to be re-primed and warm oil circulated through them. That means the engine needs to be fully assembled and running for a while. Then you have to go back and remove the valve cover and check the tolerances. You can't really check them during that stage of reassembly, it's something you have to go back to do and I don't think I did. :/ Brilliant question. It's different for GF models that have solid lash adjusters as they can be checked at that stage of reassembly. Hydraulic lash adjusters are different, they take time to prime with hot oil circulating through them. With an HLA engine the clacking will be loud when the engine is first run. It took a few minutes for everything to get lubricated and working again, that's when I should have gone back in to check the health and tolerance of the HLA's. You're absolutely correct to point this out.
1- 2 hours to get the belt on my hairy white arse release the tensioner and pul it out of the way, get the belt started on the crank. ONLY PUT IT ON HALF WAY. then work up past the water pump pulley and around the exhaust cam sprocket, only put on half way, zip tie in place, work on to the intake sprocket, the push the little extra out of the tensioner and push the belt on. then go back around and push the belt all the way on, easy peasy...check time and you are GTGO
For a first timer who's never attempted changing a timing belt I think that's a realistic estimate.
maybe ? a shop would prob charge you 6 hours and do it in one. lol. but of course doing it at home, not knowing the tricks, looking for tools. waiting for nice weather. I get it. I just assumed you meant you spent a whole hour just getting the belt to slip on .
Yes that is actually what I meant. 1 hour just to get the belt on. Because it's so tight and you have to be very careful. Eh maybe I'm just slow but that's how long it took me the first time. About an hour just for the belt. I didn't expect it to be that tight. I've never seen a belt that tight in my life. It's as if it's too small and I'm still not convinced they're selling these timing belts as the correct belt for the application. Only way to know for sure is to buy an OEM belt but that's big money for someone like me on a SUPER SUPER tight budget. On my 2nd belt job I got it done in 20 minutes, on my 3rd one it was 10 minutes. So I did get better at it. ;P
Hallo mr. How to fix HLA noise in mazda cronos 2.0 1997 and rpm rought
For the 93-97 Mazda 626/Cronos you can attempt to recondition an HLA but usually the best policy is to replace them. There is no way to truly test HLA performance to my knowledge. Best you can do is use a vise for compression and if the HLA does not open back up then it's gunked up internally. You can attempt to take them apart but I've found that is a very hard thing to do. It's easier to purchase new ones from Mazda. Replacing every HLA is expensive so reconditioning them becomes an appealing proposition. There are tutorials online on how to recondition HLA's but in my opinion if you have the money just find the broken ones and replace them. HLA's do not last a lifetime because there is a spring inside and like any spring it can wear out.
The 1998-2002 Mazda 626 uses SLA or solid lash adjusters. They can be reconditioned and/or shimmed. For shimming SLA's I highly recommend getting in touch with an automotive machine shop to do that type of work.
I didn't trust my own strength that day as the previous day I broke something without much effort. I was getting stronger and didn't know or trust my own strength.
just a word of advice for the cam caps, don't make my mistake. DOUBLE CHECK your torque wrench and make sure its set properly and that your "hand tight" hasn't already passed the torque spec, I kept turning bc my wrench didn't click. I knew it had to be too tight and I BROKE A BOLT. real PIA.
That sucks! Getting out a broken bolt of any kind requires specialized tools that most casual DIY'er don't have or don't use properly. I recommend laying plastic sheeting around the area to catch any metal slivers from the helicoil or backout process. I've broken plenty of bolts and it sucks big time. I broke a valve cover bolt in the timing belt and water pump video on camera, I wasn't using a torch wrench. Hurts the soul every time you shear one off. I feel your pain.
eh, its not so bad, left hand dril bits,easy outs, drill and tap, all pretty cheap and just require a little patients. or just let it slide and hope for the best lol
I actually was using a torque wrench , apparently it wasn't functioning properly, I knew I was over torqueing it and didn't stop. Lesson learned, stay calm and don't get in too big of a hurry or you'll cost yourself a LOT of time in the long run
The same exact thing happened to me, but with 3 bolts. Translated the manual wrong from American system to Newton meyer and broke 3 bolts. Took 5 hours to take them all out.
If no one plug is not working what is the problem
seems like a C clamp might have helped put the belt back on
Just wish to know about scruff driver plug no 1
Can I install the tappet in any order?
Yes, order of the HLA installation doesn't matter, only the torque sequence of the cam caps matter. Drop them in there in any order you want. They just drop into place no big deal.
Thank you so much. Your video really helps me on my build.
Any idea on where to get a shim kit?
Local engine machinists actually have catalogs for stuff like that. I was interested in the SLA's for the GF 626 just out of curiosity and he actually looked up the specs for it in a catalog. I thought that was pretty neat. Find the right machine shop, they have access to every engine spec you can imagine from big block chevy's and toyota camry's to porche and exotics. From shims to thrust bearing tolerances, they know all that stuff. A good portion of this rebuild was possible because of my local machinist.
Thanks bro
does anyone know of a video to use to change Mazda FS 2 litre DOHC valve seals with Cylinder head on? Desperately need help
Create a spark plug adapter and fill the cylinder with compressed air so the valve seals don't drop into the cylinder. Look up some videos about it.
Thankyou DJ Devon. I've looked and looked for videos and can't find anything specific to that motor. I'm a little limited on head space for all the internet research due to two concussions. It really wearing me down. Any help or link is gratefully appreciated
www.pmx626.info/index.php?dir=US%2FMazda+626+%26+MX-6%2FWork+Shop+Manuals%2F
Hello question and where spare parts order
RockAuto.com, JimEllisMazdaParts.com, King6Fab.com
*****
Fabian Millar ?
That's right.
Why this scruff drever on plug number 1
U better take that intake gear right back off before putting that cammshaft on he just said goodbye to that camshaft lol
а теперь на русском) в целом понятно !
Either you are losing battery power, spark, or fuel. I would recommend seeking a professional. I'm sorry I cannot diagnose issues through CZcams comments.
Pongan una traduccion en español
+alberto nunez Translations in other languages can be user submitted for this video. You can submit a translation file through this link I think... czcams.com/users/timedtext_video?v=3FHQqISRcX0&ref=share I've never done it before so I don't if it will work or not. I will need my viewers who speak multiple languages to let me know if user submissions will work from that link or not.
dj devon3 I have a Mazda mx6 1995 2.0l 5 speed manual just like the one in your videos iv ordered my new engine top and bottom seals your videos have been very helpful and im days away from rebuild my engine you have a lot of good tips and if there's anything I should probably to help make it easier .. email me at nickmidili@yahoo.com im changing the water pump ,maybe oil pump , timing belt and ext , all seals for the most part ...the car has 60,000 miles and has been sitting for a while it leaks some oil and id rather rebuild
Sorry I do not email anyone directly and I recommend you remove your email address from your comment unless you like tons of spam from posting it in a public place. Best advice I can give you is to ensure you have all the right tools and a torque wrench. You will likely run into unforseen issues if this is your first time. If you have questions about something specific I can help with sure. I did this project like 5 years ago. I barely remember what I had for breakfast. Everything I did is documented the best I could with what I had available.
DJDevon3 the videos are still alot of help and its a junk email i had one more question were did you get that book for the engine resemble
Chancer...but hey
where did you buy the valve stem seals from? How did the valve stem steal perform overtime? Do you know who is the manufacturer of the valve stem seal?
Why this scruff drever on plug number 1