Boost Your Ride: Clutch Pads Replacement Guide for 66/80cc Motorized Bikes | BikeBerry
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
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In this informative video, our expert Tony demonstrates a step-by-step guide to replacing clutch pads on a 66/80cc motorized bike. He ensures to make the process easy and manageable even for beginners.
The video delves into the details of the clutch pad replacement process, starting with the necessary tools and materials, followed by a thorough demonstration of the procedure. By following Tony's tips and techniques, you'll have your bike's clutch pads replaced and ready to hit the road in no time.
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Please note: While this guide aims to make the clutch pad replacement process as clear as possible, we recommend that beginners seek professional assistance if unsure. Always prioritize safety and refer to your bike's manual for specific instructions.
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Chapters
0:00 - Introduction
Tony kicks off the video, outlining the topic and setting the stage for what viewers can expect.
0:12 - The Value of Cheap and Easy Upgrades
Tony discusses the importance of affordable and simple upgrades, highlighting how they can significantly enhance your motorized bike's performance.
3:10 - Introduction to Clutch Pads
An overview of clutch pads, their function, and why they're critical to your bike's performance.
3:47 - The Beauty of Billet Aluminum Covers
Tony showcases billet aluminum covers, discussing their benefits and explaining why they're a great addition to your bike.
4:22 - Step-by-Step Guide to Clutch Pad Replacement
A detailed guide on how to replace clutch pads. Tony takes viewers through the process step by step, making it easy to follow along.
7:45 - Conclusion: Boost Your Ride!
Tony wraps up the video, summarizing the key points and emphasizing the benefits of the discussed upgrades.
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Waiting for my new clutch pads to arrive my clutch was slipping soo much! Thanks for the video tony!
the red clutch lever stinks you have to fiddle with it to get it to lock la hover has a video on how to fix that handle
They have a different version like the one he had there is no fiddling. You just pull back the lever an pull back the lock tab. No trying to find the groove. There awesome you gotta try one. I had same problem as you until someone pointed out there is two different kinds of red levers. I’m never going back to any other lever now. Always look at the bottom latch.
Tony, you can also use a 3 speed twist shifter for the clutch leaver. This option leaving you with twisting it on the handlebars or make it a jockey shifter and mount it on the side of the frame
Interesting! Just like this one I wonder how that would feel when riding. Thanks for sharing. 😊
@@tonytaylor5087 yeah it's also called a suicide shifter. As far as I remember how to make one, I would say you'll need some nuts, a small threaded rod, a PVC end cap, some scrap handlebar material and epoxy. I did this for a small bike for a parade (this was a rare friend's order) and welded the handlebar material to the top tube next to the tank(was unmounted before hand). They only needed a way to engage the engine and disengage it for small stuff. Wish I took pictures of the build as well but wasn't fully returned to motorized bicycles till need came in 2019.
I would say try to make your own take on it, for I'm thinking of redoing it with another build I'm going to make.
Hey I have a Beach cruise style bike with hand brakes pads on front,back pedal brakes on the back wheel. My question is there a way to put mag 3 spoke rims ? I’m not sure if and how to change them to disk brakes? Or if the brackets will work on my frame? Do u have a video or information on that?
They should make one of those break clutch combinations with two break lines
Hey bro just to elaborate those clutch pads are actually lower quality than the ones that were already installed in that motor. Those ones are known to squeak bad and not grip as well. The black pads with the grid pattern are better in my experience
Good to know your experience. I’m looking forward to running them so that I can report how they wear over time.
I think so too.When I first installed my kit,the 1st 'extra' part I bought was a "Replacement Pad Kit",and they sent a bag of pink pads that looked like 'Pepto-Bismol' tabs and they were too small to fill the spaces.I bought the entire clutch replacement unit with original style pads instead.3000+ miles on 'original' clutch and pads with a few adjustments over 4 years.
Oh yeah those pink ones were like pencil erasers. 😬
he wanted to do a quick downgrade on the engine
These pads that he was installing weren’t the stock “eraser” ones they were an upgraded version with higher friction
I dlike the one that come in kit.the red one snap on me and i couldnt let it idle by itself. And i will eventually upgrade to combo brakes and i will also try a thumb throttle
Guys, I have a dilemma, I need you to help me find out if the PWK 24 mm MotoForce Racing V2 Carburetor is suitable for my 80cc motorcycle, please give me an expert answer, thank you
The "eraser" style pads have the major advantage of being able to sand off the black build up that makes your pads slip
My clutch cove broke on opposite side of clutch cove where stop right screw goes in
This is coming up for me I believe.
Do you have a link for the pads
I put it in the description my man.
@1:15 i see that your ratcheting clutch lever is operated an index finger. hmm however most of mine are from ebay/amazon and are operated by a thumb. interesting ^_^
I can’t find the first lever anywhere
Do not purchase the red handled ratchet type lever. The metal 3 notched adjuster can slip and the lever pin gets to moving up and down creating more room for slipping. And can pop out while idling . I would never volunteerily buy the red handle lever. If it comes in your kit just be careful. But I would buy the one with the spring and pin. Just my opinion.