2010 Honda Accord - Backup Camera Install
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- čas přidán 26. 02. 2024
- Back by popular demand, the completed backup camera installation/assembly/wire-routing follow-up for the 2010 Honda Accord I've been working on from the previous video.
This one has been a long time coming (for various unrelated reasons), but hopefully it's helpful for some folks out there. As always set the speed to 1.25 - 1.5x as needed, and enjoy.
Additional information/experiences (credits and Huge thanks to @wiimaster2847 for the write-up in the comments!):
- The 11-12 sedans make it very difficult to do without drilling as the best way in is through the license plate light lens, and there's no way to easily remove them without removing half of the trunk lid body trim, unlike the 08-10 sedans where they'd come right out.
Share your experiences in the comments if you can; I do not have this model year but it sounds like a massive pain in the ass.
- The sedans also have a factory wire conduit from
the trunk that goes behind the driver's side rear seat
bolster (which comes out just by pulling it towards
the front with the seat folded down) that you can
use to run the video wire. You can then run the wire along the driver's side doorsill plates, and then
up behind a trim piece on the side of the dashboard,
which should provide clearance to feed it through to the back of the headunit.
- Users have success with T-style wire tap connectors to tap into the reverse light positive and negative wires, which (for interior applications like this) seem to work well if done correctly. But like most things, ymmv.
- On coupes camera placement is tricky, as the mounting platform on this coupe was a thin sliver of plastic in front of this hard styrofoam barrier. In retrospect a license plate mounted solution would have likely been cleaner and more secure.
Disclaimer: This video is for entertainment/sort of educational purposes only, by watching it you assume all responsibility for any of the information you implement from it during your repair and any resulting consequences. I am not liable for any loss, damages, mistakes, or anything else during, before, or after your vehicle service or otherwise.
Feel free to leave a comment, and if you found this video helpful please consider subscribing as well! It greatly helps to support the development of more content like this in the future, and I appreciate it.
- DudePingu - Jak na to + styl
Kudos for coming out with this part, really considering trying to do this myself instead of paying a shop. My biggest worry is plugging in things wrong or the music not working from the android unit..
No worries. Most of the harnesses plug in only one way; I believe the audio issues people have are from not using the provided harness from their kit correctly (looks something like this, no spaces: ibb .co/k51x6Wr), which plugs directly into the associated cable from the vehicle, the back of the original radio, and the Red/White female RCA jacks then plug directly into their male counterparts on the back of the new android head unit.
It takes a bit of troubleshooting and some time but it’s not too bad.
Hey I really love your videos I have the same car same color everything mine's a 2011 put the radio in the steering wheel controls don't work I can pick up no radio stations and then the lights around my heater control in the stereo will not light up it keeps blowing the fuse and then the GPS runs so slow and then the speedometer works but it flashes back and forth any help would be gladly appreciated
Hey there, I replied to your earlier comment as well, but it’s unfortunate you’re still running into issues. Hopefully we can figure it out.
So first, for the steering wheel controls to work I believe the android unit you purchased will need to have canbus integration. That’s probably something you can verify with the seller, otherwise it probably won’t work.
For the AC lights, there is a harness behind the AC vents which needs to be plugged in as well…But since you mentioned it’s blowing a fuse, which fuse? Check the fuse location with an online diagram, and from there you can get a multimeter and start troubleshooting where the voltage spike is occurring, but that’s outside the scope of this video. I can probably make a video about chasing down shorts/parasitic draws at some point.
The GPS running slow (or any app in the new head unit generally) is probably due to the new headunit not having enough ram or cpu power in general, depending on where you purchased it from you could likely contact the seller for a replacement or return.
Lastly, with the speedometer flashing…Is the car starting? If not, it sounds like a dead battery. If it is, it sounds like you may have a short somewhere and troubleshooting will be needed.
Thanks for watching, It sucks that all these issues are happening but hopefully this gets everything in your setup on the right track at least.
@@DudePingu I bought one of those adapters from Walmart for the radio basically that plugs into the back of the old radio and then it has an antenna and to the new radio with a blue wire
@@DudePingu the fuse is on the passenger side it's number 6 every time I just go to turn the parking lights on it blows the fuse and it never did that until I put the stereo in
Nice job, just finished installing headunit in 2010 Honda Accord. Thought of making a video, however it was too difficult to hold the camera while doing the wiring.
Yeah, I agree. For this one I ended up doing something like, ~50 segmented clips so editing was tedious but it worked out eventually. Thanks for watching :)
I installed the backup camera on our 2012 sedan back in August. Unfortunately, the 11-12 sedans make it very difficult to do without drilling as the best way in is through the license plate light lens, and there's no way to easily remove them without removing half of the trunk lid body trim, unlike the 08-10 sedans where they'd come right out. I was able to get it out just enough to push the wires through, but it was not fun by any means.
The sedans also have a factory wire conduit from the trunk that goes behind the driver's side rear seat bolster (which comes out just by pulling it towards the front with the seat folded down) that you can use to run the video wire, which is what I did. I then ran it along the driver's side doorsill plates, and then up behind a trim piece on the side of the dashboard, which allowed me to feed it through to where the headunit was.
The T-style wire tap connectors can be quite controversial, but I used these to tap into the reverse light positive and negative wires, and they're still fine. For interior applications like this it's not so bad.
For coupes like yours it's a little more tricky as far as camera placement goes, though. With the one on our sedan, I got a license plate mounting bracket that allows it to sit right above the license plate. Not only is the viewing angle pretty darn good, the image quality is incredible at night despite not doing any lighting upgrades. The factory taillights + license plate lights + reverse lights do a brilliant job of illuminating the image.
This is a fantastic write-up, thanks for commenting. Yeah I think Honda changed quite a few things from the 08-10 gen to the 11+ gen, drilling through the light sounds like a pain in the ass.
Using that factory conduit is resourceful, I didn’t notice that on the 2010 coupe. I wonder if this only applies to the sedans from 2011+ or from prior years as well.
Best way is solder and heatshrink, but T-style (if done well) can likely be just as secure. Initially I used basic wiretaps on other cars as well, but vibrations eventually shook that soft chinese plastic loose. Hopefully they improved lately.
That is good feedback, there definitely needs to be sufficient illumination for good image quality. On this 2010 there was some type of hard styrofoam (???) and a thin sliver of bumper trim to screw into, barely enough to mount the camera. In retrospect, plate bracket is probably the way to go.
I’ll probably add this info in the description to help folks out. Thanks for taking the time to write it out, I appreciate it.
@@DudePingu Drilling through the light is annoying yeah, and my goal with this install was to make no permanent changes to the vehicle, which is why I fought to get it in anyway.
The conduit behind the seat is indeed an 08-12 thing. I actually first saw it on another video of a pre-refresh model. It's a little tricky to get the wire pushed through from the trunk but once you do it works great.
So far I'm pretty happy with the quality of the T-tap connectors. It's been through heavy storms and the car wash now with no issues. Like I mentioned, I think it's less of an issue when it's an interior application rather than an exterior one. Definitely not for everyone though.
@wiimaster2847 Yeah that’s fair. Do you have a link for the T-taps you used or did you just pick them up at harbor freight/elsewhere
Hey random question. Did u have issues with the usb ? Mine doesn't recognize anything. It's like it's unplugged but I verified it was indeed plugged. Is there a toggle in the settings ?
Hey there, I don’t seem to recall a settings switch for usb but it might be there. You can also verify the ports are connected well in the back of the unit (didn’t shake loose from vibrations, etc). I have two charging cables connected to mine, I believe (on my unit at least) they both output around 5v 2amp
Hey awesome video I was wondering if any of you guys had any problems with your Honda radios I have a 2011 Honda Accord SE it's identical to your same color and everything but I was getting a popping sound through my stereo and I researched it online and they said it's probably a bad amplifier going bad well I looked underneath the glove box and I even pulled the glove box out and there is no amplifier there I called my local Honda and gave him my VIN number and they said my Honda was not equipped with a amplifier so with that being said it seemed like it when I would go out and start the car the radio would come on but I had no sound I shut the car off and restart it and then it would work but then it would make it like a big popping noise and then it sound like a pop through the back speaker so the other day I hooked unhooked both of my back speakers and started the car and you know the radio would come on but no sound so I reached up underneath the radio and wiggled wires and that didn't do nothing and once I got on the road the radio started working but then it popped real light it wasn't as a heavy pop as it normally was so I was just kind of wondering if you guys ever had any problems with that and I hooked up the Android head unit and it was running so slow they ended up sending me a new head unit and then they sent me a file by email told me that I would have to load it in to the Android unit to supposedly this file supposed to make it run faster I guess any help I would really appreciate it if you could possibly email me what you think it could be because I don't really get back on here that often I would really appreciate it and maybe you can help figure out this head unit once I get the factory stereo working the way it's supposed to work the thing of it is I've never went through and cut any wires or anything so the car is completely factory wiring and everything from the factory I've never messed with none of that so I don't know if the ground wires are located at on the car maybe some of you guys might know all that is just totally drove me nuts and my email is slone Mark at yahoo.com