Richard Raffan on skew chisels and catches
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- čas přidán 5. 01. 2022
- Skew chisel basics and why skew chisels catch.
For in-depth explanations of the tools and techniques you need to refer to Richard Raffan’s woodturning books and videos. www.richardraffan.com.au/book...
Great video really great demonstration the two camera angles really helped capture it all
It’s so great Richard that you are re doing all your dvd training vids again for youtube folks. Still the best turning teacher out there!
Agreed, I was trying to teach someone, and said, hang on - let's take a look at this...
Yes indeed, the instruction is way
beyond the other lathe channel's videos
I've watched so far, I'm understanding
99.9% of this and learning things
only covered here.
That was the best tutorial I have seen on the skew chisel. Thank you very much
I just gotta say that this is gold! Thank you so much! I especially enjoy the multiple camera angles!
Very good video to show how catches occur. The side-by-side shots are great in showing how the skew is applied to the wood. Thanks.
Way and by far one of the very best instructors in the subject, thank you for the time you have taken to share your knowledge and experience, much appreciated.
You’re right - the skew chisel scares me to death - thanks for the video…heading out to try again
This took me back to the day when you walked across the classroom and whispered in my ear that I was making a lot of noise. I was scraping not peel cutting. You could not have found a better way to teach me the peel cut.
Thank you!
What a great Demonstration! Never before it became that clear to me with those many details. Thank you so much for sharing!
Mr. RAFFAN, I don’t know if you fully appreciate just how much you have inspired turners, both novice and experienced.
You are an encyclopedia of turning knowledge, and it is a great gift that you are sharing.
Thank you!
Brilliant lesson, Richard. As per usual! Thank you for sharing your vast wealth of knowledge. It is so helpful watching an experienced Turner explaining the physics of a catch, (and therefore how to avoid one!). Thanks again, Greg
Thank you Sir, this is a great video with lots of information in it. Will be watching multiple times taking all this in. So much great teachings.
Really good instruction taking time to repeat and enforce. Enjoyable to watch whilst learning
Thank you.
Invaluable information & demonstrations. Thank you kindly for sharing.
Yep, just the best instructions around, as we have come to expect from this gem of a woodturning craftsman and instructor ! 🙂
Had this issue at the weekend turning the head of a gavel for a friend. I knew I'd done something wrong, but didn't know what. Thank you so much for these videos, really enlightening!
This is top quality instruction, Richard! Everything explained so well, all questions anticipated and answered. Again, great camera work, Dan.
I love my skews. Certain cuts still intimidate me, including the point down planing cut, which I've always wanted to become confident with. It would allow me to plane more effectively toward the tailstock. My current methods with my paralyzed hands add a few limitations to some tools, but the versatility of a skew compensate for a few of those limits, and these chisels are unmatched in fun. I feel more confident about trying a few new cuts.
Thank you for your work for our benefit.
Another excellent video for us beginners. Very useful demonstrations presented like a pro. 👌
Your book was absolutely critical in helping me turn 24"x5/8" stock without chatter marks. Long-point down with a steadying hand was the only way that worked. Thanks so much. :-)
Thank you I am one of those folks that got a bunch of scary catches and put the skew down. Now to practice, practice, practice
I've found i can scare people away from the skew by just showing them your original catch video. :-)
Really informative video. Thank you
Great video Richard. In my experience with the skew, I’ve learned that where you place the height of the tool rest is important. Too high is no good as is too low.
Rest height is always related to your height in relation to centre, and then the diameter you are turning modified by the thickness of the tool. The smaller the diameter, the lower the rest.
thank you so very much for your videos. May God continue to bless you. Newbie here in wood turning.
Have a great day!
"A wonderful tool " is the skew chisel for sure..for the one who handles it properly , and Richard does it perfectly in his videos , without any hesitation , although often close to a "catch" , using it as other tools beyond their common use : as a woodturner I learn there is still much to learn...
The skew is the reason I turn, as a hobby, since I was a teenager. My work took me all over the world for months at a time, when I would get home nothing would drain tension like standing at the lathe with my skew. Now I have been retired, standing at the lathe with my skew still is like ice creame on a hot day. Thanks for all your videos, they are appreciated.. I may be old but still appreciate learning from a professional turner. What makes your videos special is you are also a good explainer. Thanks
Many thanks, Edward. Shavings flying off a sharp edge never cease to satisfy.
Had used my skew once and had a catch which put it back into the rack for 2 years ....ti.e to give it another try!
Finally I got the right kind of shaving coming off- didn't last but I will get it again with practice - thank you Richard- you are the best teacher! And king of the skew! Gill (Ireland) x
Love this! Thank you for making things clear…!
Great video and explainations! Thank you!
Like many beginners, I had some horrible catches with the skew early on and shelved the tool for any serious spindle turning work. I did use it to size tenons with peeling cut but that’s about it. Armed with what I’ve learned today, I am ready to go make the skew my good friend. Thanks so much for sharing!
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. I'm pleased to say that I recognise the change of sound when turning but I'm still nervous about using the skew. You've inspired me to keep practising.
Another great video, thank you
Dear Richard Raffan,
a brilliant introduction to this tool. I recently participated in the excellent beginner course at dns Drechselstube in Neckarsteinach with Martin Weinbrecht.
Not only did Martin talk about you in the highest terms, he also gifted me your book in the German edition.
To be able to listen to and watch you here on CZcams is invaluable icing on the cake … and inspiring, encouraging and motivating to get practicing.
Many, many thanks.
My pleasure. Glad to be of some help.
Thanks for sharing this Richard, I find down here in Tasmania that it's often very hard to find someone that can demonstrate techniques like this, along with the reasons why things happen. Looks like I'm going to be busy checking out your other videos. Wish I had of known you were on CZcams sooner.
The first videos went up about three weeks ago so you've not lost much time.
I've subscribed and set the notifications to all, so hopefully I won't miss out on future videos. Need to do more myself, but am waiting until after we move on the 25th, will have a larger workshop, and hopefully at least one 15amp power point for my Lathe. Look forward to your upcoming videos. Again, thanks for sharing, it's masters such as yourself and sharing your knowledge, that help us learning (always something to learn) and continuing the trade and practise.
Mate after watching your video it answered so many questions for me, I think my main issue is not rubbing the bevel correctly, gonna go and put it all into practice now
Love it! I'm eleven and 3 years ago I started wood-turning on my grandparent's lathe. I only do this once or twice a year. All I have ever used is skew chisels. I have turned a bowl a mallet and a cup. I'm looking at getting my own lathe as I really enjoy it
Sounds like you need a spindle gouge as well as a skew chisel - and a lathe and some chucks and maybe some blanks. Here's hoping......
Hello front France, thanks you very mutch for this vidéo 👍👏👏
Richard, I believe you pioneered the slightly curved edge to the skew chisel rather than the dead straight edge. Have you made this clear to your followers . I followed your advice on this & found using the skew much easier
Been a big fan for many years and thank you for everything I've learned. However there's a bit of vital info missing from this one. You failed to mention the cutting height being well above centre.
Fantastic!
Großartig!!!!!!!
Like many I have not used my skew very much simply because I didn't know how. Got catches and gave it up. Nothing unusual there. Then I started watching your videos. And saw this one a year ago and picked up my skew and started using what you showed. Not saying I'm a skew master, far from it, but at least now I can use it and do use it quite frequently. And it does make a lot of things easier. Thanks for showing us all a lot of what you've learned over the years. It's very much appreciated.
Thank you for talking about the importance of the sound of the wood when turning. To many videos play music over what they are doing and you lose the importance of the sound you hear to let you know how you are turning.
Haha, "this means you gonna have to change your design" ... That's one way to put it😅
Richard, brilliant video! I'm going to the shop in the morning to overcome my fear of the Skew! As you mentioned, my skew does not have a radius. Is this something I should grind into my chisel?
What is the position of the tool rest? Is it about center or above center?
Thanks I love your videos
There is no 'correct' height for a tool rest. I'll make a short video on this, but essentially the rest height depends on the height of the turner in relation to centre, the diameter of the wood being turned, and the comfort of the turner. Ideally centre should be about the turner's elbow height, so for a typical 2-in / 50mm diameter spindle I'll have the rest marginally above centre so the handle is tilted down about 10°. Other variables are where you hold the tool handle - I usually have my right hand near the ferrule. Traditional spindle-tool handles were not much over 6-in / 150mm long because you don't need the leverage availble with a longer handle.
Richard
No one talks about location of tool rest,above center,center or below center. Do you have a video explaining.
Really like your training video.
Gregg
The Skew Chisel Basics probably gives you a better idea about rest height. czcams.com/video/Px7xiuXeNvc/video.html. There is no 'correct height' for the tool rest because of the three major variables: your height in relation to centre (the lathe axis), the diameter of the wood being turned, the size of the skew chisel. The main point is that you need to be comfortable whilst turning and you adjust the rest height to make that possible. For large diameters the rest is usually much higher than for a small diameter.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you for clarifying that.
❤
Looks like Richard has used that skew for so long that one corner of the tool is quite rounded! Is that done deliberately?
Mr. Raffan : Thank you ever so much for your kind instruction on the skew. I have notice on your tool rest you have a piece of round stock welded on the rest. What is the advantage round stock instead of a flat rest ?
The welded bar is hardened steel that won't get nicked or dented, so it doesn't need regular the filing to keep it smooth that's necessary on most rests. A smooth rest means tools like skew chisels and shear scrapers slide more easily along the rest as a cut proceeds. A rest that is flat on top is not a good idea because when a tool is tilted up the fulcrum moves to the edge furthest from the wood, thereby increasing the leverage you have to control.
Thank you for answering back. Having done machinist work in the past I fully understand your explanation. A lot of good wood lathe teachers on you tube, but you Mr. Raffan are most outstanding. Thank you for sharing you knowledge.
I see that your skews are some what curved. Mine are all a straight blade on the angle? Think I should grind mine to make that con-cove edge?
Thanks Chuck In the Great NW of the USA.
You have a traditionally ground skew chisel and fine for spindle turning. My radiused skews emerged over 50 years ago partly through my inept grinding and the need to cut away from a large cupchuck. I soon found a slightly radiused skew useful for peeling cuts when turning flanges on endgrain boxes. My current skews are only slightly radiused and skewed about 15 degrees off square.
Most skews come with a straight 30-45 degree angle on the end, yours is much more curved. Pros and cons to the different shapes?
Very apreciated. Did you use skew on side grain? Like for an outside shape of a bowl ?
A skew chisel can be used to shear cut on crossgrain, but definitely not recommended - catching the tool is far too likely. Best stick to gouges when turning crossgrain bowls. czcams.com/video/9BH41jx05KI/video.html
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thanks
thank you. I"ve been using only carbide but have lately wanted to try to learn the skew. What size would you recommend for first tool.
Mostly I used a ¾-in skew when each week I was turning dozens of scoops and boxes, all less than 2-in diameter. Turning boxes I now use a ½-in and ¾-in. and a 1-in for larger spindles like tool handles. I'm prevaricating! Probably it's easiest to learn using the 1-in as it should be easier to avoid the catches. Find yourself some straight-grained disposable timber like an old pallet or small branch and enjoy the shavings and shavings.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks brother.
4:45 I guess I'm totally lost
for some reason at this segment.
You were using long point up
earlier, and now long point down.
At this point I'm not sure what
the 'long point' actually is, I
had assumed that the skew was
identical regardless of which of
the two bevels were resting on
the wood-stock.
Could you do a short video in
the future on what the long point
is vs the short point? I realize
that you're going over this here,
and in the 'getting started; video
but on this issue, I'm at a total loss.
:shrugs:
The skew chisel has a skewed end. The longer corner is known as the long point, the shorter corner as the short corner and occasionally the heel. Most turners use the tool long point up all the time, but as I explain from around 4:45 I generally use the skew chisel long point down on cylinders and long coves so there is less tool pressure agains the lathe axis. Skew chisel basics might help you: czcams.com/video/Px7xiuXeNvc/video.html
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning
Ok, I think I get it, thanks much.
I had no idea from all the shopping
photos I've seen that the cutting
edge is not 90 degrees to the
shaft or longitudinal axis of the
tool. 😄 The edge looks to be like
anywhere from 7 to 15 degrees
from that axis, hence long, short
or long and heel as you say.
Excellent videos, I'm saving them
in my library to watch over a few
times. My first bench lathe 12''x18''
30cm x 45cm should be showing
up today. My project for buying
the lathe is incredibly simple, but
I want to get started on the right
foot. Thanks again. 👍
Richard could you do a video on the oval skew
I don't possess an oval skew. They are excellent for long planing cuts on cylinders and long curves, but unstable for peeling cuts. Compared to conventional skews they are very tricky to grind and you never get the long bevel side you have on a conventional square-section skew. The short bevel side makes catches more likely when cutting vee grooves.
What angle do you use to sharpen your skew?
The included angle is usually about 35°. Turning softer woods like Huon pine I go nearer 30°. It's 15-20 degrees off square and slightly radiused with an acute long point.
I tried after watching the video, and I'm still having catches especially when I try to roll an edge over. For some reason as soon as the lower end touches an edge to be rolled over (or if I attempt to roll anything over) it catches in milliseconds. I find I have to fight the tool sometimes to prevent catching and I end up just cutting the entire portion of the bead off. The only flawless execution I managed is making V cuts, other cuts seems to be catch prone, and there's a VERY fine line between the tool doing a shear cut and the tool basically tearing the heck out of the wood. I'm not sure what I am doing wrong.
Cutting V-grooves you'll be using the long point of the skew chisel with just the bevel side against the wood, against the bit you've just cut. Rolling a bead, try keeping the tool at almost 90 degrees to the lathe axis, then cut using the short corner with the bevel side against the bit you've just cut. Catches genereally occur when the wood comes down on an unsupported edge so your catches might be something to do with the positon of the handle.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning So does speed have to do with anything, like if I'm turning too slow I'm more likely to catch, or is it the wood? I'm turning on a metal lathe that has a max speed of about 1800 rpm. Especially with rounding over it seems no matter what I do it wants to catch as soon as the short edge touches the wood.
That skew could shave a man, it's so sharp