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Toyota Rav4 2008 2.2 D4D Centre Propshaft Bearing/Carrier (Rav Series) Unchangeable Bearing of Death
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- čas přidán 24. 02. 2021
- Forums and Toyota say this cannot be changed. Toyota only sell the full prop shaft. However this bearing kit can be purchased from eBay etc.
This took about 4 hours. 2 hours one afternoon, and 2 hours the following morning. If I wasn't recording it, it probably would have taken 3 hours. Having done it now, it would be possible to complete in around 2 hours the next time.
Is it worth it? Well, it depends. A garage is going to charge extra labour (if you can get a garage to agree to undertake this work as most say it cannot be done and want to fit the whole job lot). The bearing kit I bought cost £47. The whole prop shaft was listed for £175 - this is eBay, not supplied from Toyota - expect MUCH more if buying from the main dealer, and as I said above, just the bearing/carrier cannot be purchased alone from Toyota. So for me, it was worth it. If you are paying someone to do this work then it probably wont be worth it because you will pay roughly the same (the extra money has gone on extra labour pulling and refitting the bearing). Then at the end of it you only have a new centre bearing/carrier instead of the whole prop shaft assembly. On top of that, the quality of carrier/bearing isn't the same as from Toyota, so expect it will need doing again in 2 years time -depending on mileage!
So to sum it up. The unchangeable bearing of death can actually be changed... is it worth it? Well, that depends!
Good job Liam,thanx for checking it out for the back yard mechanic, I now know what I’m up against when I do my ravs centre shaft bearing.Cheers
Thank you for your comment, it means a lot. Good luck with the repair.
Hats off to u mate. U r more of a man than me. I took it off and paid $250 USD to a driveline shop here in the States. They did the carrier and both u joints. ‘97 AWD stick. Option 2 was $750 for a new complete unit. Fantastic video.
Good price that. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks!
That's about worth the 250 for real .... concidering how long I spent changing one
Exelente curso gracias muy bien
Good work
Thank you, great instruction!
Thank you for your comment. Good luck.
To go through all that for only the steady bearing, next thing you know the u joint s go bad, I ordered complete shaft for 375.00 , 4 bolts on each end of shaft to deal with and your done and all is brand new.
Just changed my mind buying the whole thing
Thank you
I don't have the gear to do this but i really love saving money
Hola buenas tardes me puedes ayudar con el enlace para buscar el kit en EBay ocupo balero cardan y CV trípode ese balero no lo encuentro nomas el balero cardan pero el troppo de no me sale como lo puedo buscar
Could it be eliminated without transfer cases leaking oil
I managed to split the shaft by making one cut into the bearing using an angle grinder with a cutting disc and making a final cut with a pendant drill multi-tool cutting disc for the close-quarters work.
Two flat head screwdrivers prised off the bearing in no time. I was surprised by how flimsy it was. I thought it would be a bit meatier and take a lot more cutting. I had it off in under 30 minutes.
I managed to cut into the shaft slightly, with the mini cutter. Nothing that will impede the operation of the new bearing when it's fitted. Just a slight paper cut.
I just have to source a length of pipe to chap the parts on when they arrive. Would you recommend heating the dust covers before fitting or do they go on without much brute force?
Once again, Thanks.
Glad its off. There was some stainless or other hard metal in there and I struggled with the hacksaw. I then went back to the puller before taking the grinder to it and thankfully it worked (as you can see in the vid of course).
With regard to the rubber boots they went on easily enough with some grease. Keeping it off your hands so you can get a decent grip is the biggest pain really. You could warm them a bit if its very cold but I don't think its needed.
Glad you are succeeding. All the best.
Good job, but I did not understand why not tightening the vice?. It´s annoying to me at least.
I didn't want to deform the driveshaft. Some are oil filled. All are balanced, even small dents could throw it out. Thanks for watching!
Great job ,l have the same problem must change soon to my 2008 2.0L automatic. My problem is where to find parts and which one is the right spareparts , can you give me same idea thanks👍
Hi. Thank you for the comment.
I purchased the part from eBay. I have just checked and it appears the parts are the same for the 2.2 and the 2.0. If you are in the UK I would supply the reg number to the supplier so they can check their system. I would also do a visual inspection of what you have fitted and compare it to the pictures.
Hope this helps. Thank you for watching :)
@@lcmotorvehiclerepair3961 Thanks and appreciated you Liam Cox. l am living in norway ,l have to things to change on my car. 1, U joint. 2, tripodnav and rubber.if you have any info about spareparts you WELCOM . Details my car. 2008 M petrol 2.0L Type XA3(A) chasinr JTMBH3IV605047842. Have a great day👍
How important is it to mark the flange?. I never removed the shaft from the car, someone else had that job, but nothing was marked. I marked both ends before I split so at least they will go on as they came off.
They are balanced, the worst that can happen is vibrations. You will know when you get it back together and give it a test run. There are only 4 positions it can go back in though with how it connects to the mating surface of the diff on them 4 studs. If it vibrates rotate 90 degrees and test again.
hello
please where to rotate 90° to adjust..the u joint??
Hi, Thanks for making this video. Just as my centre bearing rubber falls apart, lol.
I have my prop shaft off, running 2 wheel drive at the moment. Could you tell me what tool did you use to remove the spring circlip that keeps the shaft from splitting?. I saw you remove it in the video by didn't see how you did it.
I noticed the circlip doesn't have looped ends that allow for a pair of pliers.
Just a sharp flat screwdriver. The clip has 2 points on it, I put the screwdriver between those and twisted it to get one side started then pushed it around. As you twist the screwdriver it pushes one side of the circlip into the groove and the other side out. It took some perseverance if I remember right and I think I edited the swearing out of the video.
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your repair.
Can i drive the car without this driveshaft?
Brother i have changed everything Gearbox down 4 wheel deep am still experiencing car jag, what's the problem, please help me.
Hi. I don't fully understand what you mean? If you've removed the gearbox, it could be clutch or dual mass related? I'm just not sure what to suggest without more info.
Looks like MORE work to me than its worth
If you check the Toyota forums (google rav4 centre propshaft bearing) some people have been quoted £1300 for supply and fit on the whole shaft and bearing doing. An astronomical amount of money. I did a write up in the description too on weather it was really worth it or not.
Thanks for your comment and taking the time to view the video.
Болгаркой и без проблем
want to do mine lol ?
I don't know what the price is over there.. but it was alot cheaper to just replace the Entire drive shaft, u-joints and steady bearing all at once here in Canada. I order the parts from USA for cheaper then I could get local. 1200 at Toyota Dealer. Was 350 from RockAuto and came in a toyota box to boot.
Ooohh air Hammer would have saved some time....
Way you cat video put Adar sopat friend
Would rather to buy the whole piece since it is aligned from factory and aftermarket specs. What you're doing it is really unconventional and quite messy.
Yet you watched the video. 😂
You got a terrible job !