Where to cut the saddle slot on this guitar bridge?
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- Time to install a saddle in this bridge. Where exactly to put it? Salvaging this original Gibson bridge required filling the saddle slot. You can’t assume the original factory placement was correct. Dan Erlewine shows how he located this saddle.
About the guitar in this video: This 1942 Gibson LG-2 is all mahogany. It's often called a "banner" model because of the peghead decal: a banner reading "Only A Gibson Is Good Enough."
Thanks to our friend, Dakota Dave Hull for the music!
If you have questions, please contact us through our webpage www.stewmac.com... or visit our Facebook page / stewmac
For more information on tools and parts:
Bleached White Bone Saddles
www.stewmac.com...
The Intonator
www.stewmac.com...
Soundhole Clamps
www.stewmac.com...
Acoustic Bridge Locating Pins
www.stewmac.com...
StewMac Guitar Bench Pad
www.stewmac.com...
StewMac Deadblow Neck Rest
www.stewmac.com...
Ol' Dan the Man....love how he uses modern tools with old timers inventive imagination.
We all should.
At first I thought Dan Erlewine made a Floyd Rose bridge for an acoustic guitar!
😂
Dan is a wizard of guitar repair and a Godsend for every guitar repair man who benefits from his generous sharing of valuable knowledge.
45 years of fine woodworking and I discover programs like this that I learn a lot more .
I can barely play a guitar, not really sure why I enjoy watching one being repaired so much.
Dan, what a dream it would be to spend a year as your apprentice absorbing as much of your experience and knowledge as possible. You are an innovative guitar genius.
That little brass gadget is really brilliant!
i know im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a method to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost the password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Ian Moshe Instablaster ;)
It's fascinating to watch Dan work and I have been watching many of his videos. It's become an every day thing. Last night, I went to sleep watching another of Dan's videos, his voice sonorous and gently lulling me to sleep. Now I almost didn't click on this video, when i saw the title and thought how interesting can this be but I'm glad I did.
Dan.... I could watch you all day! I love the preciseness and all the knowledge you have accumulated. Such an art.
Wow, thanks!
The Bob Ross of guitars. Best teacher on CZcams
Online calculator is great. StewMac ingenuity to make the bridge placement jig to trial and error bridge placement, Brilliant!!!
A cool phrase for remembering how to fix intonation -" fret flat, forward" with regards to the fretted 12th string versus 12th fret harmonic. Hope that helps someone 😁
Another great video. It's a privilege to be able to watch these, and get so many useful tips.
Warms my heart to see such dedication and skills in finding a workable, repeatable and perfect solution for an issue; thanks so much for sharing 👍👌
So satisfying and informative to watch.
This man is a master.
Dan, you are always a breath of fresh air with some guitar dust in there! Thanks for sharing!
Dan's an acoustical genius. 😊
This are the most valuable tips! For guitar builders, there is no better tool for saddle slotting. Thankz
Dan I wish I had the patience you have .. you are a true craftsman 👍
My cousin always used to say "we don't want 'em too good, they'll all want 'em that way". This is a great little mechanism for setting the bridge angle.
when i started out as a tech,Dans books and videos were my bibles,now as a luthier,they are just as helpful,there is no one better
michaeladam caira where can i buy his book i want to become a luthier too
That gave me an idea. Have an acoustic that I wish the saddle slot was back a couple millimeters. When I intonated the bridge saddle the low E, A, and B string are at the back edge of the saddle and still a cent sharp. Have used the lightest gauge strings. Was thinking about a compensated saddle but the strings are too close to the bridge block for that. Think I could just widen the back edge of the slot with that tool and use a wider saddle to gain the extra space I need to intonate.
You are a great craftsman!
I've always wondered how luthiers set the intonation on acoustic guitar. This was a very cool video!
it's impossible to correctly set the intonation to be correct on an acoustic guitar ... unlike an electric, where individual string adjustments are available.
The vast majority don't do it this way!
@@jonandersonmd7994 Instruments don't generally need super precise intonation, but it helps when somebody is as dedicated as Dan is to getting it close.
Try putting a bit of low tack (masking) tape on the bridge before installing the intonation tool. Then you'll have an easy surface to mark once you've adjusted the L shaped fingers.
Awesome.... Gave me the feels.
I want one of those intonaters permanently on an acoustic bridge - being able to adjust intonation and saddle height per string would be amazing
Dan Erlewine is the Bob Ross of guitar maintenance
neat tool. i have struggled with this task in the past. i used a toothpick i'd roll back and forth to find the right positions. sometimes i'd end up with some unusual compensations on the saddle. a nice piece of brass makes this way easier to hear the notes.
Thank God for this man!
I'm often impressed with the tools you come up with. Unfortunately shipping to Germany is very expesive 😀
So is shipping to England. :-(
So is shipping to the Netherlands :(
so is shipping to Canada
Most of the tools are unnecessary, these videos are literally just paid advertisements for their tools.
@@lauriedepaurie wou dat ik mijn Cuatro Venezolano even kon laten afstemmen door hem.
Thank you for this! What a great invention!
I love this man.
Dan ... you might want to include the fact that as you do your first intonation adjustment with your special tool, each string's forces are now different, and the entire set of strings ought to be checked again for intonation ...and perhaps again and again .. but when the instrument is in 'playing position', not on a bench...
Great video and tip. I learned a lot from this. Thanks Dan!
Nice I watch your other video and this one, I'm going to look for the one you cut the string slots on the bone
Mr. E.
You're a GENIUS !
Thanks for casting your pearls amongst the swine.
Fortunately, Dan is not as rude, condescending and snotty toward his audience as yourself.
The SM Saddle Slotting Jig... the one thing I just can't get myself to buy due to the high cost. Besides, I'm awesome at making custom saddles including saddles that over hang the slot if necessary.
Hey can you make a video of you doing this please! It would be extremely educational and super fascinating!
Cheers!
Can the intonator be used permanently for keeping the intonation right on a guitar you have changed from standart scale to short scale...???
Makes me wonder how it's done without that intonation tool? Awesome video, Dan!
In the olden days: not. Pure guesswork. Most smaller luthiers: experienced guesswork or calculations. The bigger factories usually have these routed to a specific spec in high quantities.
To be perfectly honest, this level of intonation is overkill in 90% of situations. I like it, I have a guy that does this for me, but a lot of people don't even tune their guitar that well. And intonation this specific means the slightest changes in dimensions (and that happens a lot in acoustics) or a change of stringgauge/tuning will result in it being not perfect. That's not even really a big thing, unless you're playing open strings while playing higher up the neck.
+laurens b Thank you for the explanation, which makes perfect sense :)
captainvideo2 In the days before this tool, you'd make a saddle and adjust the crown closer to the front or back of the bridge according to how close the 12th fret fretted note and harmonic were. Most slots are 3/32" or so which allows reasonable intonation if the basic compensation angle of the slot takes the mass of the heavier wound strings into account.
wish I had his knowledge
Incredible!!’
How Cool is that!!
What a great idea.
Dan, you mentioned the dreaded neck reset but with this you are talking about a new bridge block, bridge, and some pretty fancy cutting of the bridge itself. I'm really curious, what kind of savings can you tell your customer about? Neck reset vs all new bridge has to come fairly close in price I'd think.
thanks for sharing very smart!
Maestro!
He’s the real OG
Very informative video, but I'm not sure why he doesn't cut the raised portion of the bridge into two pieces. Clearly the wound strings (low-E through G) form a very straight line, and the B and high-E form a 2nd line. It would be easy enough to route 2 slots (as many newer acoustics already do). The overall intonation would be more in tune.
genious
The problem I have with these videos is that Dan has the enormous resources of StewMac behind him. I don't think I, or my customer, can afford my buying one of these intonation tools to sacrifice to creating low saddles like this. Yes you can keep that modified tool aside for other similar jobs but they are fairly rare.
Clever tool!
wanting the guitar to be in tune is not a problem ..
as long as you can make it that way
I wonder how much the intonation would be improved just by doing a proper neck reset.
Is this work any cheaper?
It's possible that a neck reset could help improve intonation, but it really depends on what's causing the problem with the intonation in the first place. If the neck joint isn't the issue, you may just end up creating a new problem while trying fix the current one, since a neck reset is really unlikely to "fix" bad intonation. Generally, a neck reset is a much more involved and invasive repair compared with cutting a new saddle slot in the proper position.
This sets it up for the 2 outside strings, but what about the 4 strings in-between?
I noticed you started with the D string, curious as to why and what your preferred order would be. Also, does the same apply to intonating a solid body?
Unless you have an acoustic style bridge, a solid body guitar should have individual saddles you can move one-by-one
Does putting a hard saddle like this on an acoustic not limit the player to using those gauges of string? If the player changes strings will the guitar's intonation not change? Is it tradition (of using such a style bridge) which keeps acoustics from being as versatile as a guitar with an adjustable saddle?
RESPECT
I would be really tempted to just keep this thing on my acoustic, and treat it like an adjustable bridge on an electric.
Very nice tool but it made me wonder.. For what reason all acoustics still use a fixed bridge? Doesnt tuningn and everything affect your intonation slightly so wouldnt it be better to have a bridge with adjustable intonation? Seems kinda stupid to me to stick so fixed bridges just for the tradition or is it something else? :/
i believe fixed bridges transfer vibrations better and are more stable than adjustable ones on hollow body instruments.
RDE Lutherie
i'm glad there's lots of smaller builders around to take up the gauntlet and produce top quality instruments without adhering to "tradition", Fender and Gibson still have a firm foothold but they won't last for much longer if they don't up their game i think.
RDE Lutherie
unfortunately also, this is a problem endemic with society in general, and all industries; gaming and other media, consumer electronics, even food, of course musical instruments and indeed music itself.
RDE Lutherie
it's almost like i wrote that myself. there's no need to rant at me man, even though it's nice to agree with someone for a change. i hate corporations and tbh capitalism in general more than anyone i know, i only watch these Stew Mac videos for the tricks and ideas for tools that i'll just make myself later out of recycled spare parts, i don't even have a bank account. i have an 11 year old phone because anything newer is subject to planned obsolescence. this isn't my real name cause i don't want Google knowing who i am.
they exploit us to hell and back, it's atrocious and very sad indeed. i see myself as a customer rather than a consumer, and only ever buy things on my own terms, if i can't negotiate the price to what i consider fair, they don't get a sale.
RDE Lutherie
you too dude, looking at the "recycling" page of your site now.
As always you produce great videos. I have A Martin D35. About two years ago. I loosened the string's completely. I stored the guitar. It has stayed at a fairly good temp and humidity is OK. I was told this could hurt the guitar when I decide to testring it. Can you please give me advice as to what I should do? I would be greatful for ever. Thank you, Thomas.
I think you should PLAY this guitar. Otherwise, you're doing fine on storage
Very interesting! Just curious...if the saddle is going to follow the path of the intonator's individual saddles, why not intonate just the two E strings to save time? Will the final saddle be compensated according to the intonator, or will it be a straight saddle? Can't wait to see the second part! And beautiful guitar!
Because the intonation is based on a string's core diameter, not its total diameter. So a wound g has a core comparable to a plain high e.
Where did you get that hard white pencil and leads?
do you file the saddle string area individually to dial it in like the gage indicated or is that unnecessary?
Now all we need is one with springs to keep tension and one for 12-strings.
Would seem that you would have high E and low E intonated but perhaps the other 4 strings may or may not have fallen along the same line drawn.
That's really cool. Love watching your vids!
Wow!
Someone commented that it look like a Floyd Rose. Don’t stop! Make a Campfire Metal special with a whammy bar and locking nut/tuners. (ouch)
People you don't know the MAGIC having a guitar intonated please do it and check your guitars bar chords never sounded so good and on electric guitar power chords are so satisfying good
why is this tool discontinued..?
i have a 1962 LG0 myself! Unfortunately it is totally unplayable due to a really terrible and VERY high action but it's sentimental to me because it was passed down to me and i don't trust anyone to work on it and get it playable out of fear of them breaking it or doing something that can't be repaired...
Loosen the strings and store it.
You need a neck reset and/or bridge work A competent luthier will charge 300-1000 for this work to make it playable. A 1962 LGO is a $500 guitar in todays market
or you can use some cut down drill bits like builders have been doing for years and save a ton of money
could you show the video how to fix buzz , my guitar always buzz on 5 string at fret 3, before that i make sadle lower with my ownself
i was to trying set truss road but still buzz .. but
no truss rod and no bridge adjustments; first hammer/press down into its slot the fret immediately higher than fret that buzzes. you will need a special tool to check for fret levelness, you can use of course the string itself but it is easier with this: www.amazon.com/fret-rocker/s?k=fret+rocker
Most likely a high fret or a bad bridge pin
cool
genial nada mas q decir
Thats fucking genius
Always wondered why they don't just make an adjustable bridge for acoustics?
It murders the sound quality on an acoustic
I'm still trying to figure out how to put my saddle back in correctly cuz it fell out while I was changing strings...can someone help me please!
Does your acoustic guitar's bridge have an open ended saddle slot, or is it just long enough to fit the saddle? Is the guitar in question a typical steel string acoustic, or a classical with a flat fingerboard and saddle? If you can please provide a little more information, I would be happy to help as much as possible.
It's funny how one always plucks the strings while unwinding, there's really no need but it's fun
why not design a permanent Intonator for acoustics ?
/////Very cool
Dan: a neck reset is not in the budget, so let me apply some quantum physics here.
Curing a problem that I didn't know about.
When will these people open the shop to customers who only want their repairs done STEW/MAC??? I COULD NOT TRUST THIS KIND OF WORK TO ANYONE ELSE.
Intonation OCD is not a bad problem to have. ;)
Has ruined my life lol. Or col.
I’d honestly just leave the intonator in there as it looks like a Floyd Rose and offers fine tuning at a moments notice
Me too.
+1up.
When I win the big lottery AND inherit my grandfather's fortune in diamond mining, I'll start with a ScrewMac beginner's file set and work up to a multi-million dollar guitar fixing shop.
While I appreciate the skill going into this critical exercise, I don't feel it's right to have to modify what is already an expensive tool. So back to the 'drawing board' StewMac; you charge enough for the tool!
interesting.
l thought for a moment dan was trouserless !
and the intonators price is ....
....
749$
എനിക്ക് ഇല്ലാതെ പോയ മുത്തച്ഛൻ.
This thing is a collosal waste of time, money, and effort.
At best, you are only intonating the 1st, and 6th strings, and that is done in one minute with a dowel.
Look at the inside string positions when intonated using the tool. They are not in a straight line, but they will be when you install the saddle.
What is the point of all that effort to get the inside strings perfectly intonated, when the saddle is not going to keep them in the same position?
Dan is a lone master, Stewmac is a great company, but someone explain to me where I am incorrect.
so fukin expensive
The videos are nice to watch. But what about the tools you use and do not want to buy them or cannot afford them. Better to show people how to do this stuff with tools available to most of us normal people. Your saddle slotting jig thingy really doesn't show people much in the way of trade secrets.
Machinist's pornogrophy