I really like the huge volume of information per minute you spew out perfectly clearly and concisely. If anybody ever says you talk too fast, its not you, they think too slow!
Holy crap, just saw the "your ad here [phone number below]" sticker on your mask....... realized it was my area code out here in vegas........ googled the number and sure enough, youre out here :D that makes the series 10 times better :D
please finish thiss!!!!!!! use the jig and make the manifold! this would be an awesome video, especially coming from an Evo guy and a welder, i want to make my own header and wanna watch you do it too
nice video.. while you were tapping, I thought "holy shit, he's going to just hold it and tap with a drill, what a beast"... aand it cuts to the vice. love it. I'm a journeyman welder, and people think that just because I'm certified, that I'm a fabrication pro, but no... your videos have taught me a lot. Thanks again for doing these videos.
Nice to see how this is evolving. I'm just getting back into welding with my everlast after a long time away from it. It feels like I've forgotten everything.
Sure does help having the manifold to work off of. I’ll have to guess where I want the turbo to set. Probably be easier to tack it together in the vehicle I’d say.
When I'm doing multiple holes in a piece, I start in the center of my pattern, mark and drill that hole first. Then bolt the pattern down to that hole. I then use the proper sized bit to keep centered in another pattern hole adjacent to the bolted down one and repeat. Continue until all holes are drilled. This insures there's no shift with the pattern or hole positioning. If you just do a pilot with the proper sized bit you can also remove the bolted down pattern and use a drill press or whathaveyou to finish the holes.
Have you thought of a way to capture the shape of the individual header tubes, to save time and avoid clearance issues ? I suppose you could make a fixture for each pipe the way you did for that downpipe @1:43 but that would be a bit of work.
Good stuff but why not use the flange as a drill template by clamping it to the steel plate? You could even mark one end then drill out that hole, then use a proper size bolt & nut to hold one end and clamp the other end then drill the other end hole then bolt that end down. This way you could drill the rest and have perfect hole alignment by using the flange so you don't have the drill bit wondering around which it usually dose and causes misalignment. There are also the titanium coated drill bits with a smaller center drill bit that would help in just starting the center of the hole.
just finished this video. Awesome. I watch these series just like any TV show, but unlike TV shows, I actually learn something. if I can make a request for the next video.... will you rock the wristbands, and peg your jeans?
You can usually score some good scrap at your local metal supply store. They typically have remnants that they sell at scrap price. That helps build up a nice scrap pile around the shop.
Thank you, my metal supply store is very frugal do t know if they would sell anything at scrap prices but it's worth a try. They would probably be looking for someone to buy large amounts at a time.
It’s a lot more likely that someone will have a drill press, even if it’s a small one, than a horizontal bandsaw. More likely, they will have a metal cutoff saw, possibly a cheaper friction cut model, though hopefully a carbide model. If you’re power tapping remember-you MUST buy a machine tap, no hand taps will work properly. Hand taps must be reversed every turn or two, at the most, to clear the chips. If you don’t, then you could break the tap, ruin your threaded hole, or both.
Good info on fixture design. Btw to quote wikipedia:"A jig is often confused with a fixture; a fixture holds the work in a fixed location. A device that does both functions (holding the work and guiding a tool) is called a jig." So you are talking fixtures. Just for clarity...
Thanks for taking a sec to explain power tapping...saw it in another video but figured it was a special tap. Was that WD 40 you sprayed the tap with, or cutting oil? If you need inspiration for a video, i'd like to see one on taps, dies, easy outs/extractors and heli coils...and any other thread fixes you may know of.
Power tapping should use a spiral flute style tap, but doing it with a hand drill can be done with a standard tap. any machine will probably break the tap. I'll see if I can put together another video on thread work. Thanks for watching!
I need to make a turbo manifold jig for my 13b but the only thing I seen in your video I wouldn't be able to do is essentially let the jig cool with a complete manifold in place. so what are my options?
I'm about to make a JIG for my 13b also. Single turbo manifold for the t3 turbo flange. T78-33D turbo. I dont think the cooling of the jig matters. Just make sure you have a decent thickness to stop warping.
have you ever built upper and lower control arms? I was thinking about buying a good junk yard set of control arms, building a jig to them, cut the jig in half between the bushings and ball joints, and extending them by a couple inches to create a long arm jig ... any criticism is much appreciated.
I usually just measure the part and mark it out which is the most accurate (as shown in the Purge Blocks episode). I don't own transfer punches or center punches since I don't use them, even though they are useful for projects like this. The marker will serve its purpose well while maintaining some accuracy as demonstrated in this video.
Hey Justin, I really like your videos. Though why oh why do you not wear sleeves at least and gloves when welding. Intense UV light is not kind to your skin what so ever.
He's not burnt his self bad enough yet. 15 minutes like that burns my arms and hands petty good and my neck. Learned that years ago. And now have to cut all the skin cancers off all over my hands neck and arms
Replying to your comment about all not having access to cad software. Fusion 360 by Autodesk is free for students & Hobbyists. A bit of a learning curve; plenty of forum support & helpful tutorials. Hope this those of you leary of CAD due to cost of some products.
Hey Justin I would like to thank you for posting the educational/informative vids that you post. I do recognize that this vid is primarily bassed on building a jig fixture I could not help but notice the amount of splatter. If you can please give a brief disscription into why Their is so much splatter it would be appriciated. I am not a professional welder but I do own my own mig/Tig welder which catches more dust then use :) as an enthusiast who does a lot of my own stuff. I take it the splatter was/is due to not using any argon or the electroid is set in reverse? Thanks ahead & keep up the good work 🍻
Walker71820061 Splatter/spatter is process. It's basically a byproduct of the short circuit MIG process (standard/basic/typical MIG welding). If it doesn't interfere with your work, it's not an issue. Most jigs in general are just there to hold pieces in place - nothing else. If a piece of splatter/spatter ie kn a surface - get rid of it. Anything else, dont worry about it. Final products get points - ot necessarily the process.
+The Fabrication Series , I notice in other videos you reference being able to reach all weld surfaces. This leads me to believe this is an assy fixture and not the full weld-up fixture, since you went through the effort of making the purge plates. Would I be correct?
This is a temporary placement jig/fixture, so it's only purpose is to hold the place of the part being built with it until it gets fixed to the purge blocks. If it was a production style jig, it would have been made different and more accessible.
I don't use them. I typically just measure like I did in the purge blocks video so I have nothing to demonstrate with and there are other methods to achieve the same result as shown.
awesome,, big help ! I am kind of in no mans land because I want to build one that does not look like the ones you can buy s the one I like the most is the one PSE use to offer and I want the carb not sitting right over the exhaust manifold
that's pretty smart using the factory manifold to make a jig, we always used pvc piping to get a general shape and size given the measurements from the space inside the engine bay and engine. I do have a question and you can call me dumb but what is the purpose of a purge block?
Purge blocks allow argon gas to get in to the work as you are welding it. They also serve as a heat sink and prop for your work. You'll see them in action during the next episode.
+The Fabrication Series hey thanx for the info. I only weld on things at work and was trained there. they didn't explain the dynamics of anything nor do we use purge blocks. we do have jigs and fixtures though.
what drill bits are you using, cobalt? I need some that last a long time as I do automotive work and broken studs are no fun to drill out with cheap bits.
I don't use software. It adds additional steps to the process. Its faster to measure, mark a tube, bend it, then install it. Using software would take a lot longer because you have to input all of the info into the software using the same measurements you just took.
MIG has less control than TIG. There are usually cold spots and the weld is larger in size. That usually translates into weaker. It can be done (and it has been several times), but it may not be as strong as the TIG.
Go with tig if you can. It is the reason why after all of this time welding mig with my everlast that I really want to learn how to tig weld now. more control over everything,
How would you go about holding a vband(ed) collector in place while tacking the new manifold runners in place within the jig? That's my main issue right now before moving to the purge blocks for final welding and I use Tial turbine inlet flanges on my collectors. Thanks!
Cheers man. I have ordered all my bits to make my 13B manifold. I'm literally waiting on your pie cut tutorial so I know how to make the cuts. Keep the good work up!
Yes. I used the mill in the Purge Blocks episode which is a prequel to this episode so I made it more like what someone without a mill would be doing to show some more options without expensive machines.
Paul Nygren It's a water based lubricant and coolant. I can't remember the brand off the top of my head, but I use it because it's safe to mist and flood, and it's water based instead of oil based.
Thanks for the sub! Titanium does not serve exceptionally well as a turbo manifold. It doesn't like that kind of heat. I would stick to stainless grades depending on how light weight you want to have it.
Get a mic closer to your mouth - either wireless lav, better shotgun or boom mic. Sounds super amateur / echoey now. Sound gets WAY Better when camera is closer.
Just fine. ja got a lot o energy bro - powerfully condensed, focused with breathless good natured friendliness. I didn't know about the capability of taps to withstand a power drill, or your skins ability to digest the radiation. so LOL between us
They shouldn't be interchangeable.. A Jig and a Fixture are two different things. A fixture holds a work-piece in a certain orientation where as a Jig is meant to guide a cutting tool (usually a drill) in a certain orientation. That is how it is in the machining world anyway.. For example to take it out of the video.. I would make a drill JIG to drill the holes in the manifold flange.. and I would make a FIXTURE to hold the tubes in place to weld them to the flange.. Hope that is understandable. end rant.. anyway, Great Vid!
M Penn They "shouldn't" be, but often are. It's the same as tube and pipe, or motor and engine. They should be differentiated, but they are often synonymous. I put both terms up there so that people will understand in their terms as they know it.
It is a temporary placement jig. All it needs to do is position the work for some tack welds before being transferred over to the purge blocks. If it was a permanent or production jig, it would have been made thicker, or it could be fastened or welded to a table if it was a huge concern.
+DJ Inclined Probably not, but someone with limited experience and knowledge probably will. They need the info more than someone who has more experience. There's no reason to cut the info short.
I really like the huge volume of information per minute you spew out perfectly clearly and concisely. If anybody ever says you talk too fast, its not you, they think too slow!
Can't wait until next episode. I like that he is taking the time to share his knowledge with others.
Thanks for watching!
I love your videos not only because they're visual(obviously) but they're very informative. keep em coming please. you've answered all my questions !!
Right on! Thanks for watching!
Holy crap, just saw the "your ad here [phone number below]" sticker on your mask....... realized it was my area code out here in vegas........ googled the number and sure enough, youre out here :D
that makes the series 10 times better :D
It's funny as I got really anxious when you started power tapping and then came back and explained it lol. Made me feel a lot less stupid.
please finish thiss!!!!!!! use the jig and make the manifold! this would be an awesome video, especially coming from an Evo guy and a welder, i want to make my own header and wanna watch you do it too
Thanks for the video. Good work and easy to watch without being annoying. Good stuff
Thanks for watching!
nice video.. while you were tapping, I thought "holy shit, he's going to just hold it and tap with a drill, what a beast"... aand it cuts to the vice. love it. I'm a journeyman welder, and people think that just because I'm certified, that I'm a fabrication pro, but no... your videos have taught me a lot. Thanks again for doing these videos.
Thats a great way to tap holes with a cordless drill, I've learned so many little tricks like that watching your stuff. Great Work!
Definitely works. Thanks for watching!
Nice to see how this is evolving. I'm just getting back into welding with my everlast after a long time away from it. It feels like I've forgotten everything.
Can't wait for part 2 - building the manifold
It's in the works
thank you for making these videos. hands down the most detailed fab videos i have watched!
Thanks for watching!
Cresent wrench & the non use of a transfer punch, shows the mark of a true professional. God job.
Mike Weiser I can't tell if you're being facetious or not. Care to elaborate?
Wow thanks for the video . this is going to help me to build a manifold that i cant find for my tractor . Awesome!
excellent information!! cant wait for the next episode. thank you for sharing the knowledge!!
Thanks for watching!
Did anyone mention that these are all fixtures, not jigs? Or am I that guy right now? Regardless of that, I always enjoy watching your videos.
building old aircraft still got me building wood and nails jigs for my personal projects. I sure wish i had that chance to learn to tig weld.
conrado galan If you get a chance to come to Vegas, come take a hands on TIG Class with us thefabricatorseries.com/classes
Thanks
Center punch your marks before drilling pilot holes so your bit doesn't drift from center.
I've seen your videos for a while, always good stuff and tips that are important. keep going with the videos.
Thanks!
Noticed a gap on the closest heatplate end at 19.28..IT PAYS TO CHECK, CHECK AND RECHECK
Sure does help having the manifold to work off of. I’ll have to guess where I want the turbo to set. Probably be easier to tack it together in the vehicle I’d say.
is the 1/8 steel base plate not a bit light ?
love the video's
thanks
It's plenty enough.
When I'm doing multiple holes in a piece, I start in the center of my pattern, mark and drill that hole first. Then bolt the pattern down to that hole. I then use the proper sized bit to keep centered in another pattern hole adjacent to the bolted down one and repeat. Continue until all holes are drilled. This insures there's no shift with the pattern or hole positioning. If you just do a pilot with the proper sized bit you can also remove the bolted down pattern and use a drill press or whathaveyou to finish the holes.
That method could work well too.
Anyone know what kind of drill bits he uses. He is cutting through that steel with ease.
Have you thought of a way to capture the shape of the individual header tubes, to save time and avoid clearance issues ? I suppose you could make a fixture for each pipe the way you did for that downpipe @1:43 but that would be a bit of work.
Good stuff but why not use the flange as a drill template by clamping it to the steel plate? You could even mark one end then drill out that hole, then use a proper size bolt & nut to hold one end and clamp the other end then drill the other end hole then bolt that end down. This way you could drill the rest and have perfect hole alignment by using the flange so you don't have the drill bit wondering around which it usually dose and causes misalignment. There are also the titanium coated drill bits with a smaller center drill bit that would help in just starting the center of the hole.
just finished this video. Awesome. I watch these series just like any TV show, but unlike TV shows, I actually learn something. if I can make a request for the next video.... will you rock the wristbands, and peg your jeans?
I'll probably keep the wrist bands on since they are very helpful to me. I'm definitely not going to bring back the peg leg haha.
Great work!
Thank you!
Sure wish I had a scrap pile like yours. K eep up the good work love the video.
You can usually score some good scrap at your local metal supply store. They typically have remnants that they sell at scrap price. That helps build up a nice scrap pile around the shop.
Thank you, my metal supply store is very frugal do t know if they would sell anything at scrap prices but it's worth a try. They would probably be looking for someone to buy large amounts at a time.
It’s a lot more likely that someone will have a drill press, even if it’s a small one, than a horizontal bandsaw. More likely, they will have a metal cutoff saw, possibly a cheaper friction cut model, though hopefully a carbide model.
If you’re power tapping remember-you MUST buy a machine tap, no hand taps will work properly. Hand taps must be reversed every turn or two, at the most, to clear the chips. If you don’t, then you could break the tap, ruin your threaded hole, or both.
Great video instruction. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Great Video Thanks
So like forever ago. would love to see a vid on your take of making tubular control arms..
What's the purpose of those black things on your wrists?
+Roger Onslow Control sweat and hold my markers
excellent!
Good stuff! Excellent feed!
Thanks!
Awesome video man! Love your stuff!
Thank you!
Hey - great series of videos. Just subscribed and I really enjoy the vids! Keep up the great work.
Thanks for the sub!
Awesome tutorial and channel
Thanks!
Good stuff man!
Thank you!
Hay man your hair do looks better than that baby do in the center of your head. Really like the videos.
Good info on fixture design. Btw to quote wikipedia:"A jig is often confused with a fixture; a fixture holds the work in a fixed location. A device that does both functions (holding the work and guiding a tool) is called a jig."
So you are talking fixtures.
Just for clarity...
Tano17 shhhhhaaaaatttttthhaaaaaappp
want to see next episode !! great.
It's in the works.
thankyou very much. i learn a lot seeing your videos. thankyou again.
Bringing the wristbands back. I like it.
Haha... Fabrication style.
nice Merrill over 40k subs congrats
Thanks bro!
Thanks for taking a sec to explain power tapping...saw it in another video but figured it was a special tap. Was that WD 40 you sprayed the tap with, or cutting oil?
If you need inspiration for a video, i'd like to see one on taps, dies, easy outs/extractors and heli coils...and any other thread fixes you may know of.
Power tapping should use a spiral flute style tap, but doing it with a hand drill can be done with a standard tap. any machine will probably break the tap.
I'll see if I can put together another video on thread work. Thanks for watching!
i feel like i went back to the 90's for that intro
I need to make a turbo manifold jig for my 13b but the only thing I seen in your video I wouldn't be able to do is essentially let the jig cool with a complete manifold in place. so what are my options?
I'm not sure what you're asking. Could you elaborate?
I'm about to make a JIG for my 13b also. Single turbo manifold for the t3 turbo flange. T78-33D turbo. I dont think the cooling of the jig matters. Just make sure you have a decent thickness to stop warping.
have you ever built upper and lower control arms? I was thinking about buying a good junk yard set of control arms, building a jig to them, cut the jig in half between the bushings and ball joints, and extending them by a couple inches to create a long arm jig ... any criticism is much appreciated.
I have built many control arms. The process you described is pretty much how it's done.
bro what kind of drill bits do u use? because u drilled that like butter
HSS
Thanks
You can also use cuntsten targlide
ave
Buy a set of transfer punches! Tons more accurate then a marker.
Yeah transfer punches or at least center punch.
I usually just measure the part and mark it out which is the most accurate (as shown in the Purge Blocks episode). I don't own transfer punches or center punches since I don't use them, even though they are useful for projects like this. The marker will serve its purpose well while maintaining some accuracy as demonstrated in this video.
+The Fabrication Series Buy the HFT transfer punches. Cheap, but still just as useful as the expensive ones.
I don't use punches since I just measure the part.
Or for one-of's, grind a point on a HT bolt of the right size. Just needs to make a small dimple that can be enlarged with a proper centre punch.
Hey Justin,
I really like your videos. Though why oh why do you not wear sleeves at least and gloves when welding. Intense UV light is not kind to your skin what so ever.
Sumitso have you ever used a welder?
He's not burnt his self bad enough yet. 15 minutes like that burns my arms and hands petty good and my neck. Learned that years ago. And now have to cut all the skin cancers off all over my hands neck and arms
Because your mom likes tan skin....duh
Replying to your comment about all not having access to cad software. Fusion 360 by Autodesk is free for students & Hobbyists. A bit of a learning curve; plenty of forum support & helpful tutorials. Hope this those of you leary of CAD due to cost of some products.
Right on. I'll keep that in mind for those who ask. Thanks.
Hey Justin I would like to thank you for posting the educational/informative vids that you post. I do recognize that this vid is primarily bassed on building a jig fixture I could not help but notice the amount of splatter. If you can please give a brief disscription into why Their is so much splatter it would be appriciated. I am not a professional welder but I do own my own mig/Tig welder which catches more dust then use :) as an enthusiast who does a lot of my own stuff. I take it the splatter was/is due to not using any argon or the electroid is set in reverse? Thanks ahead & keep up the good work 🍻
Walker71820061 Splatter/spatter is process. It's basically a byproduct of the short circuit MIG process (standard/basic/typical MIG welding). If it doesn't interfere with your work, it's not an issue. Most jigs in general are just there to hold pieces in place - nothing else. If a piece of splatter/spatter ie kn a surface - get rid of it. Anything else, dont worry about it. Final products get points - ot necessarily the process.
Sick video.
Thanks!
+The Fabrication Series , I notice in other videos you reference being able to reach all weld surfaces. This leads me to believe this is an assy fixture and not the full weld-up fixture, since you went through the effort of making the purge plates. Would I be correct?
This is a temporary placement jig/fixture, so it's only purpose is to hold the place of the part being built with it until it gets fixed to the purge blocks. If it was a production style jig, it would have been made different and more accessible.
Why not just use the purge blocks to make the jig? Access?
Access is the biggest reason. Rotating a big temporary placement jig is not as easy as rotating the work with the purge blocks attached.
Transfer Punches......take out the guess work
I was thinking the same thing.
I don't use them. I typically just measure like I did in the purge blocks video so I have nothing to demonstrate with and there are other methods to achieve the same result as shown.
Yeah, or centering punches.
I wish to build a intake for my 63 Chevy any idea where to get the flange stock where it meets the head?
+Ye Olde Pirate I usually just machine them. Not sure where to buy one.
awesome,, big help ! I am kind of in no mans land because I want to build one that does not look like the ones you can buy s the one I like the most is the one PSE use to offer and I want the carb not sitting right over the exhaust manifold
that's pretty smart using the factory manifold to make a jig, we always used pvc piping to get a general shape and size given the measurements from the space inside the engine bay and engine. I do have a question and you can call me dumb but what is the purpose of a purge block?
Purge blocks allow argon gas to get in to the work as you are welding it. They also serve as a heat sink and prop for your work. You'll see them in action during the next episode.
+The Fabrication Series hey thanx for the info. I only weld on things at work and was trained there. they didn't explain the dynamics of anything nor do we use purge blocks. we do have jigs and fixtures though.
what drill bits are you using, cobalt? I need some that last a long time as I do automotive work and broken studs are no fun to drill out with cheap bits.
Just regular HSS. Nothing fancy.
I just got a bit sharpener and it's all win. cheap HSS bits cut like new again.
should of clamped the flange to the piece you were drilling and used transfer punches or the right size drill bit and drilled thru
In the comments and the video I explained why I didnt.
what software do you use to design roll cages, frame etc..
I don't use software. It adds additional steps to the process. Its faster to measure, mark a tube, bend it, then install it. Using software would take a lot longer because you have to input all of the info into the software using the same measurements you just took.
What happend to part 2
I've seen people who use a mig to weld the turbo headers is that fine or do you use tig fir looks ?
MIG has less control than TIG. There are usually cold spots and the weld is larger in size. That usually translates into weaker. It can be done (and it has been several times), but it may not be as strong as the TIG.
Thank you really apreciate it and good job in your videos man I've honestly learned alot.
Go with tig if you can. It is the reason why after all of this time welding mig with my everlast that I really want to learn how to tig weld now. more control over everything,
whats that stuff you spray on the drill bit at 7:58?
Joshua Cranfill It's a water based cutting fluid/coolant.
How good are inkzalls. :D
Great vid mate, love the improvements in production quality.
Keep up the good work.
Quite possibly the best marker I have ever used.
How would you go about holding a vband(ed) collector in place while tacking the new manifold runners in place within the jig?
That's my main issue right now before moving to the purge blocks for final welding and I use Tial turbine inlet flanges on my collectors. Thanks!
FiestaSTdaily use another vband flange and a clamp on the jig
The Fabrication Series that's what I figured. Just can't seem to find a female tial flange anywhere. Thanks!
FiestaSTdaily Measure and find the closest size.
Is the miller econotig a bad welder to learn how to tig?
Arnaldo Graceski My Diversion 180 is a great TIG to learn on for the price.
I already have the econotig and I practice and practice a lot but I dont like how it turns out
guessing your jigging technique would work for control arms as well?
It works for anything you need to replicate.
NSX
You using stainless for the jig or mild steel ?
Ryan Dabbs It's all mild steel.
Cheers man. I have ordered all my bits to make my 13B manifold. I'm literally waiting on your pie cut tutorial so I know how to make the cuts. Keep the good work up!
What happened to the second video?
fuck i love your videos, keep up the great work mate.
Thanks!
jordan rodger
ive never seen that done before. "power tapping"
Some use it - others frown upon it. Either way, it is pretty common to do and rather useful.
I'm wondering why didn't you use the mill from the beginning? Is it to replicate a hobbyist who might not have a mill?
Yes. I used the mill in the Purge Blocks episode which is a prequel to this episode so I made it more like what someone without a mill would be doing to show some more options without expensive machines.
Can you tell me what fluid you are spraying on the bit when drilling on your mill? Thank you.
Paul Nygren It's a water based lubricant and coolant. I can't remember the brand off the top of my head, but I use it because it's safe to mist and flood, and it's water based instead of oil based.
How do you validate a Jig?
Once you build the part, you fit it to ensure it is correct.
Awesome I'm doing titanium and stainless turbo headers. Any useful insight? I've subbed you I'm going thru your videos.
Thanks for the sub! Titanium does not serve exceptionally well as a turbo manifold. It doesn't like that kind of heat. I would stick to stainless grades depending on how light weight you want to have it.
The Fabrication Series thank you
You need a mic you can wear, that also cancels ambient noise.
Uni-directional lapel mic.
Microphones get destroyed in this type of environment. Thats why I use external mics.
Perhaps adding some sound absorbing materials around the shop to block the constant echo
Should have clamped the flange to the steel and marked through all the holes with a snug fitting drill before drilling the pilot holes.
There's more than one way of doing things. This was just one method.
Get a mic closer to your mouth - either wireless lav, better shotgun or boom mic. Sounds super amateur / echoey now. Sound gets WAY Better when camera is closer.
This was shot back in the day when the channel had like 10k subs and no money. Had to shoot with what we had.
Just fine. ja got a lot o energy bro - powerfully condensed, focused with breathless good natured friendliness.
I didn't know about the capability of taps to withstand a power drill, or your skins ability to digest the radiation.
so LOL between us
Thanks for watching!
They shouldn't be interchangeable.. A Jig and a Fixture are two different things. A fixture holds a work-piece in a certain orientation where as a Jig is meant to guide a cutting tool (usually a drill) in a certain orientation. That is how it is in the machining world anyway.. For example to take it out of the video.. I would make a drill JIG to drill the holes in the manifold flange.. and I would make a FIXTURE to hold the tubes in place to weld them to the flange.. Hope that is understandable. end rant.. anyway, Great Vid!
M Penn They "shouldn't" be, but often are. It's the same as tube and pipe, or motor and engine. They should be differentiated, but they are often synonymous. I put both terms up there so that people will understand in their terms as they know it.
should have used a punch when you drilled those first holes do the bit won't walk. maybe?
Moving the drill to keep it centered is what I do to keep them from walking. I've just been doing it for years.
fastsofaracing the holes lined up perfect.. so he did not need a punch.. sherlock
Windex cutting fluid lol
That base plate looks thin? Could easily warp? I'd have used some bracing from the flanges. Otherwise, great video thanks
It is a temporary placement jig. All it needs to do is position the work for some tack welds before being transferred over to the purge blocks. If it was a permanent or production jig, it would have been made thicker, or it could be fastened or welded to a table if it was a huge concern.
The Fabrication Series Gotcha
Transfer punch.......
too much bla bla. but love the way you do it the same way id do.
Every one's a critic -or a safety nazi. Keep doing what you are doing Justin. Screw the arm chair fabricators
Где перчатка так и нельзя
Gloves.
Great to see that woodprix has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
I'm not sure what you're saying
Jesus man! 18V? WTF.
Michael LaHonta What about 18v?
I'm just messin'. I'm sure you upgraded to 20V by now huh?
👍🇦🇷
time to buy a microphone...
imantenis It's shot with a microphone.
Allot of extra rambling had to watch in 2x just to keep my attention.
What is seen as rambling to you is information to others. Please be mindful of what others may or may not know. Everyone learns a little different.
Yes i'm aware, but a secretary isn't going to watch this and build a manifold for her Camry.
+DJ Inclined Probably not, but someone with limited experience and knowledge probably will. They need the info more than someone who has more experience. There's no reason to cut the info short.
+dj inclined don't like it don't watch lol