HOW-TO: Cessna ONE FIFTY! O-200 Oil Change (Please read notes below)
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2017
- FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY. I WILL NOT BE HELD LIABLE IF YOU WATCH THIS VIDEO, CHANGE YOUR OWN OIL, AND KILL YOURSELF.
*NEVER UNRAVEL SAFETY WIRE, INSTALL WIRE AFTER OIL FILTER*
This video shows a typical oil change on a Continental O-200A installed in a Cessna 150G aircraft.
Parts List from Aircraft Spruce:
1. ECON SAFETY WIRE TWISTER 9"
2. SAFETY WIRE .032
3. TEMPEST AA472 OIL FILTER TORQUE WRENCH
4. DOW CORNING DC-4 COMPOUND
5. CHAMPION CH48108-1 OIL FILTER
6. AEROSHELL 100W OIL
OTHER ITEMS:
1. Sharpie Marker
2. Flexi Funnel
SOME OBSERVATIONS:
1. Don't wear sandals when you are working on your plane! ;)
2. Install the safety wire AFTER installing the oil filter, this ensures you are able to apply the proper number of twist at the correct length without having to unravel the twist which compromises the strength of the wire
3. Dispose of used oil properly
[DATE]. Tach time: XXX.X HRS. Drained oil, removed oil filter, replaced filter with Champion CH48108-1, safety-wired filter, added 5 quarts of Aeroshell 100W oil & 12oz AvBlend additive, ran and leak-checked engine in accordance with Cessna maintenance manual. Oil sample taken and sent to lab for analysis. [OWNER NAME], Owner, [Certificate number]
Couple of thoughts from a 25+ year A&P... I use a spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol mixed 50/50 with water to degrease afterwards. I also check and clean/re-oil the air filter during an oil change. I leave the upper aft dzus fastener on each side and unlock all others, then remove one side then the other to prevent the cowling from sag during removal. Lastly, after it is all done and engine cooled, I would personally inspect the entire engine with a good light looking for leaks, cracks, anything loose, etc. Then spray entire engine with a good degreaser (purple stuff diluted 50/50 with water works well. No Simple Green!) then flush out with water. Drip dry then do one more engine run and look over one last time. Clean is your friend! Freshly degreased then engine run will show active leaks or seeps. Overall great video!!!
Great video! Thanks for sharing! Congrats from Portugal
Portugal rocks! Thank you.
I use the same tools everyday. The flexifunnel is great to use. I use a longer one. I even use the champion torque wrench. I wish I would have brought it early on in my career. It is such a time saver. You forgot to include the part where you get pricked by the safety wire. Also I never had an oil filter fail on me. I don't even know why they make us safety it. I suppose they think it's going to rotate off the engine once it's torqued. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing that video.
The only thing I do differently is fill the oil filter with fresh oil before I put it on. It will soak up the oil and not spill a drop. You get oil pressure just a little bit faster that way. Also, oil works really well to lubricate that O-ring on the filter too.
i like that idea, thanks!
Do you have an oil screen underneath the quick drain??
To properly collect an oil sample: Collect 1/3 ar the beginning of the draining and then 1/3 in the middle process and finally 1/3 when the oil start to slow.
Why do you use that process? That captures sediment.
Great video Tim. I am a new C150 owner in las vegas. Where are you based? Maybe we could meet sometime. Hoping to visit a lot of desert airfields soon. like your videos.
I am out of KDVT, Deer Valley, Phoenix. Look me up if you head this way. I have been out to Las Vegas a few times, usually going into Henderson.
speaking of oil..do you have oil cooling problems when flying during hot summer days? somebody asked me about that. i learned to fly on east coast..no such issues to be heard of
Yes oil cooling in the Summer in Phoenix is a real problem due to the design of the O-200 and the location of the oil filter in an area of stagnant non-circulating air, if the outside temp is 100F you will need to climb quickly to 80F or you will redline your oil. A "brute force" climb will often just aggravate the problem, so I will often feel the air out for thermals and climb up to cooler air quickly and more efficiently that way. I am looking at possible solutions such as the Airwolf heat sink for the oil filter. Even with the heat sink you will need to engineer a way to circulate air over the sink.
What was the diameter of the oil rubber hose you used?
I would also like to know
Not an aircraft owner, though aerospace engineer and car hobbyist. The used oil looks quite dark, compared to my 2002 Chrysler 3.8L engine w/ 275K miles, which I change every 7K miles. Is that due to the hotter temperatures in the air-cooled engine, or perhaps higher compression and thus more blow-by (like a diesel)? I expect you change oil much more often in an airplane. It appears you use silicone grease on the oil filter gasket, whereas most car owners just coat w/ fresh engine oil. Perhaps that gasket is silicone rubber. I wonder if Alaska Bush Pilots are similarly fastidious, especially working in remote locations where they must improvise and in harsh climates.
Used aircraft oil is dirtier than modern car engines because of the leaded fuel.
As I understand it 100 low lead avgas has about 8 x more lead in it than old leaded auto fuel.
A lot of carbon and sludge is held in suspension in the oil, hence the need of frequent oil changes.
Aircraft engines are also prone to deposit build up inside the heads and on the valves because of the fuel used.
Un-leaded auto fuel burns a lot cleaner.
On my aircraft I use engine oil on the filter O-ring, that is what my manual tells me to do.
Why drain some oil before taking a sample? Don't you want to see what has settled to the bottom of the sump?
The sample goes to a lab which tests the sample for the presence of metals from wearing engine components and other contaminants. If you take a sample when the drain is first opened you could potentially get the heavy sludge on the bottom. By taking the oil from the middle of the draining process, you are capturing the oil that is circulating around the engine when it is running which is more accurate of the overall condition.
Hello you dont clean tos,
Screen Assembly, Oil?
When the O-200 is upgraded by STC to an oil filter adapter (original engine had no oil filter), the original screen assembly is removed from the engine and thus no requirement to clean.
When you install the oil filter adaptor what is done with the old oil screen?
Tengo la misma duda .. encontraste la respuesta ?
The old oil filter that is removed gets the metal shell cut off, then the filter material inside is pulled out and inspected to make sure there isn't excessive carbon or metal flakes inside it.
Need to show how the oil drain on bottom works? Is it a valve? What size nut is it?
It is called a quick drain. It is a valve whereas when pressed up it goes into a spring loaded detent opening the drain valve. Pulling it back out (spring pushes it out) closes the valve again.
should you warm the engine oil up a little first?
yes, I may have neglected to mention that the plane was flown about 30 minutes before the video. This is actually more important for a good oil sample than just the oil change itself
The oil screen was not checked for medal.1/23/2022
You remove the oil screen when you install the oil filter adapter as per the STC instructions.
Nit picking but i was taught to never unravel safety wire, measure up to the hole then thread. Could cause failure.
Thank you, Great observation. The proper procedure should have been to install the safety wire AFTER the oil filter had been mounted. This would ensure the proper number of twist at the correct length without unraveling the twist. Appreciate the comment:)
No problem, like I said minor thing. But in aviation..... Lol
The proper procedure is hook the safety wire at the anchor, let plenty hanging in excess, then use the safety wire priers or hand twist. AC 43.13. Never untwist and reuse safety wire.
@@FlyingWildAZ it's fine to "pre-twist" - I get a basic measurement from the old wire and twist it a little short. Also, when you first feed the wire in, stick your finger in just past the hole and let the wire run on your finger tip while pulling with other hand. You can manipulate the wire so it runs smooth through the hole in tight spot and that trick should make it much easier to get the wire through.
3:38... poltergeist?...
yes it has been confirmed
You shouldn't unravel safety wire. Otherwise good video!
thank you!