I’ve heard no one doing repair videos explain issues and resolutions anywhere nearly as well as you do. Your videos are not only educational, but entertaining. Thank you from Gilbert, Arizona.
Dad's Yamaha has the led label. He's 93 almost, and has tried to play again after decades, wasn't going well for him. The bridge is about 280, the saddle barely peeps up, the neck is not set well, action is way too high in the upper register. Guitar has the belly and the gauze everywhere. Truss rod doesn't help. So, I figured as I'm a total rookie, Dad's not going to play in the upper regions any time soon, the strings were way high over frets 1, 2 and 3, so I just got out my nut files and lowered the action there. I put some lighter strings on for him, 10's, now he is finding a bit of fun again.
My Dad's first guitar(which became my first guitar) was a Yamaha red label. He passed away last year, and the old Yamaha has seen better days. He was a school teacher and brought it in daily, let the kids play it, played assemblies etc.. It s got 3 neck cracks, heel crack, cave in on the back, scars, scratches, gouges, gum etc..all over. Still looks and sounds great though. Now that I'm off work recovering from surgery, I'll be working on it getting it back to acceptable shape, but I'll leave all the non-structural damage.
I'm always impressed when someone wants to do this much work on an old Yamaha. They are real road warriors, and you know how to get the job done. I have a Yamaha FG300 Nippon Gakki red label that I bought in Okinawa in 1970 when I was in the army. A few years ago I had a luthier in Tokyo work on the warped neck, but results were not so great. It has the "dreaded" adjustable saddle. I wish I could have had you work on it. In spite of being all laminate, it is pretty and sounds great. Thanks for your videos, Jerry!
There's nothing wrong with the adjustable saddle, other than it is very heavy. I sell a 3D printed version (adjustable of fixed height) with a carbon fiber infused black nylon body and single piece bone saddle. The reviews have been very possitive.
I'm currently finishing a neck reset & refret on a 1975 Yamaha FG-360 and it has the EXACT large gauze patch on the braces on the same side, and NOTHING on the braces on the other side. This must have been a common practice at that time. I've done over 50 vintage Yamaha FG neck resets and this gauze is in all of them, but normally on both sides.
You should watch twoodfrd and get a few tips on taking bridges off.. Red label guitars were made in Japan sometime between 1966-1971. After that period production moved to Taiwan and the color of the label changed to beige. So a beige label Yamaha Guitar Repair. 👍dovetail neck joint.?
Looking forward to the next part. My son plays the FG180 that is the first steel strung flat top I bought for myself in 1978 and played for 30 years. It still sounds good but the neck needs sorting.
Here's our man Jerry, back in his luthier element, explaining how he does a certain step and why. No, I don't need to see a bandsaw cutting rosewood or a drill press making holes. Jerry has more patience than any 10 fellows I have ever known or worked around. Here's one to consider: I was in the process of replacing Porter Cable router motor bearings and I finally got the small bearing out of the metal housing. With a 3 claw bearing puller I got the defunct bearing off the shaft. But the bearing inner race stayed stuck on the shaft. With a file and several hours of work and careful filing, I might be able to get the race ground to where it will come off the shaft. The new bearing awaits. As I was looking at the stuck race, I had to ask myself, how would Jerry handle this situation. I don't know how much blood, sweat or tears I will expend, but I need a functioning router. PC doesn't make routers any longer. I've got all the PC accessaries, so I refuse to get a Makita or some other brand. If necessary I may be able to find a used motor on E-bay or a pawn shop. Bob
Twoodfrd sticks sandpaper to underside of of bridge where it is to be glued ,rough side down and levels it out by working it back and forth ,being careful to not scratch the top
An easier way to do this in my experience is to tape it off all around the wood bridge. Take an old high e string and fashion something similar to a garrotte with loops on both ends to place fingers through (wear gloves). Then heat enough to get the end of the bridge high enough to slip the string under. Keep angle of string low enough to the masking tape without touching it. Keep heating as necessary while slowly working the string back towards yourself with a slight side to side action on the e string. Works great and no damage but remember, do not lift string too much while working the string back. Could break or damage the bridge if the plan is to reuse it. Try this technique.
about the Yamaha label debacle... it is a debacle... but it will tell you somethings about the guitar and more if you can read the serial number... i have a black label FG180J that will need a neck reset sometime in the upcoming years of its life...
Could you possibly make a couple of brass or steel pins just long enough to hold the bridge in alignment but short enough to not stick out on either side. Then drive them out from the top once the clamps are removed? Or even use wooden dowels and drill them out when complete?
I put a bridge doctor in my cheap but beautiful guitar which has corrected some forward saddle bow. Easy fix for me I don't know what the long term will bring. My tiny little brain is wondering if on that bridge plate sanding the back to a slight taper might help push the belly out when clamped.
How does Titebond adhere to CA glue? Just wondering. I like to see Jerry cut freehand on the bandsaw, as I'm not very talented at that, and Jerry makes it look so easy. Note: Some pretty weird Spanish comments showing up. Translations have nothing to do with your videos.
Jerry does not use Bridge Doctors and I understand why. However, in this instance, I would use one too, because it's cheap and might avoid a neck reset.
@@mandolinman2006: It is thin brass. When you stick it in place, it conforms to the wood. If the wood is bowed, as in this case, the brass itself becomes bowed. No help.
You always replace a black bridge with a brown one. That would make me unhappy if my guitar came back that way. I MUST believe Jerry discusses that with all his guitar customers who get bridges replaced. If not... well, that's a huge executive decision. I guess if the fretboard is also a natural (brown) finish, then i wouldn't be so displeased. But I've seen Jerry put a natural bridge on a guitar with a black fretboard. That's a no-no!
I may be old but I still giggled at your bridge heater numbers.
Nice.
I’ve heard no one doing repair videos explain issues and resolutions anywhere nearly as well as you do. Your videos are not only educational, but entertaining. Thank you from Gilbert, Arizona.
Dad's Yamaha has the led label. He's 93 almost, and has tried to play again after decades, wasn't going well for him. The bridge is about 280, the saddle barely peeps up, the neck is not set well, action is way too high in the upper register. Guitar has the belly and the gauze everywhere. Truss rod doesn't help. So, I figured as I'm a total rookie, Dad's not going to play in the upper regions any time soon, the strings were way high over frets 1, 2 and 3, so I just got out my nut files and lowered the action there. I put some lighter strings on for him, 10's, now he is finding a bit of fun again.
love the fast forward music, it's like watching Benny Hill
Always leave this channel with great tips and inspiration….and a sure bet I’ll be back for MORE!
Thanks for taking us along on this project Jerry!
My Dad's first guitar(which became my first guitar) was a Yamaha red label. He passed away last year, and the old Yamaha has seen better days. He was a school teacher and brought it in daily, let the kids play it, played assemblies etc..
It s got 3 neck cracks, heel crack, cave in on the back, scars, scratches, gouges, gum etc..all over. Still looks and sounds great though. Now that I'm off work recovering from surgery, I'll be working on it getting it back to acceptable shape, but I'll leave all the non-structural damage.
Looks like it might be a good candidate for a Bridge Doctor.
Excellent video. I can't get enough of your content, ty Jerry!
I'm always impressed when someone wants to do this much work on an old Yamaha. They are real road warriors, and you know how to get the job done. I have a Yamaha FG300 Nippon Gakki red label that I bought in Okinawa in 1970 when I was in the army. A few years ago I had a luthier in Tokyo work on the warped neck, but results were not so great. It has the "dreaded" adjustable saddle. I wish I could have had you work on it. In spite of being all laminate, it is pretty and sounds great. Thanks for your videos, Jerry!
There's nothing wrong with the adjustable saddle, other than it is very heavy. I sell a 3D printed version (adjustable of fixed height) with a carbon fiber infused black nylon body and single piece bone saddle. The reviews have been very possitive.
One of the most intelligent and detailed videos on this job I’ve seen. Well done and thankyou.
I'm currently finishing a neck reset & refret on a 1975 Yamaha FG-360 and it has the EXACT large gauze patch on the braces on the same side, and NOTHING on the braces on the other side. This must have been a common practice at that time. I've done over 50 vintage Yamaha FG neck resets and this gauze is in all of them, but normally on both sides.
You should watch twoodfrd and get a few tips on taking bridges off.. Red label guitars were made in Japan sometime between 1966-1971. After that period production moved to Taiwan and the color of the label changed to beige. So a beige label Yamaha Guitar Repair. 👍dovetail neck joint.?
Looking forward to the next part. My son plays the FG180 that is the first steel strung flat top I bought for myself in 1978 and played for 30 years. It still sounds good but the neck needs sorting.
I'm glad to see you doing repairs!
Fine work again Jerry
Great guitar video. Always inspiring. Learning more each time. I really like when you make the bridges. Thank you Jerry! 🎶🎶🎶
Thanks again Jerry
Here's our man Jerry, back in his luthier element, explaining how he does a certain step and why. No, I don't need to see a bandsaw cutting rosewood or a drill press making holes. Jerry has more patience than any 10 fellows I have ever known or worked around. Here's one to consider: I was in the process of replacing Porter Cable router motor bearings and I finally got the small bearing out of the metal housing. With a 3 claw bearing puller I got the defunct bearing off the shaft. But the bearing inner race stayed stuck on the shaft. With a file and several hours of work and careful filing, I might be able to get the race ground to where it will come off the shaft. The new bearing awaits. As I was looking at the stuck race, I had to ask myself, how would Jerry handle this situation. I don't know how much blood, sweat or tears I will expend, but I need a functioning router. PC doesn't make routers any longer. I've got all the PC accessaries, so I refuse to get a Makita or some other brand. If necessary I may be able to find a used motor on E-bay or a pawn shop. Bob
Great content, thanks.
I use a 1inch olfa blade to remove the bridge.It works great with a side to side motion I haven't had a problem yet.Your bridge is very nice
Twoodfrd sticks sandpaper to underside of of bridge where it is to be glued ,rough side down and levels it out by working it back and forth ,being careful to not scratch the top
An easier way to do this in my experience is to tape it off all around the wood bridge. Take an old high e string and fashion something similar to a garrotte with loops on both ends to place fingers through (wear gloves). Then heat enough to get the end of the bridge high enough to slip the string under. Keep angle of string low enough to the masking tape without touching it. Keep heating as necessary while slowly working the string back towards yourself with a slight side to side action on the e string. Works great and no damage but remember, do not lift string too much while working the string back. Could break or damage the bridge if the plan is to reuse it. Try this technique.
about the Yamaha label debacle... it is a debacle... but it will tell you somethings about the guitar and more if you can read the serial number... i have a black label FG180J that will need a neck reset sometime in the upcoming years of its life...
Could you possibly make a couple of brass or steel pins just long enough to hold the bridge in alignment but short enough to not stick out on either side. Then drive them out from the top once the clamps are removed? Or even use wooden dowels and drill them out when complete?
It may not have started as an arch top, but it be one now? Nice guitar but a tricky fix?
Drill some holes in your bridge clamp bridge so you can tell if the holes line up.
I put a bridge doctor in my cheap but beautiful guitar which has corrected some forward saddle bow. Easy fix for me I don't know what the long term will bring.
My tiny little brain is wondering if on that bridge plate sanding the back to a slight taper might help push the belly out when clamped.
Sanding anything away will just make it weaker.
I have the same model Yamaha fg-150 nippon gakki with the red label and the top is arched near the bridge . Dont know if it was made like that or not.
What about just gluing a hardwood bridge plate (same size and shape) on top of the original one - increase the strength greatly?
How does Titebond adhere to CA glue? Just wondering. I like to see Jerry cut freehand on the bandsaw, as I'm not very talented at that, and Jerry makes it look so easy.
Note: Some pretty weird Spanish comments showing up. Translations have nothing to do with your videos.
It is some sort of scam. Never click on the links.
@@johnjamieson7087: When you see them, report them.
Hy Jerry, how about your artritis, are feeling better?
So which is the best type of bridge Jerry. Floating,Pinless,Yairi split, Glue on..etc?
what kind of finish is used on this Yamaha?
you could put a bridge dr in there
Jerry does not use Bridge Doctors and I understand why.
However, in this instance, I would use one too, because it's
cheap and might avoid a neck reset.
Why don't you drill holes through the bridge clamp so you can see the holes line up?
It weakens the clamp.
Hi Jerry, do you know what the gauze is for?
Given the bridge plate, would this guitar be a good candidate for a bridge mate or whatever it's called?
The Plate Mate is the cheap fix for wallowed out pin holes.
It does not strengthen the plate.
@@zapa1pnt true but, given it being potentially a thin spruce plate, it might help reinforce it.
@@mandolinman2006: It is thin brass. When you stick it in place, it conforms to the wood.
If the wood is bowed, as in this case, the brass itself becomes bowed. No help.
@@zapa1pnt it would reinforce it enough to keep the strings from pulling through, which would be a concern for soft wood in this application.
@@mandolinman2006: Well, yes, it would do that.
I thought you were making reference to the bowed top.
"This Bridge is Too Thin" (FIFY)
What about acetone?
‘too thin’
You mean “ Too” Thin ....
Thank you for pointing that out. I didn't catch that mistake. I went in and fixed it.
- Emeri Rosa
too not to
Thank you for pointing that out. I didn't catch that mistake.
I went in and fixed it.
- Emeri Rosa
You always replace a black bridge with a brown one. That would make me unhappy if my guitar came back that way. I MUST believe Jerry discusses that with all his guitar customers who get bridges replaced. If not... well, that's a huge executive decision.
I guess if the fretboard is also a natural (brown) finish, then i wouldn't be so displeased. But I've seen Jerry put a natural bridge on a guitar with a black fretboard. That's a no-no!