Fixing Royal Enfield Himalayan oil pump rattle
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- Royal Enfield engines are known to rattle and be noisy. The number one culprit is usually the tappets/valves, number two I have seen on various forums loud clattering noise in the lower right hand side of the engine. The cause of this is the oil pump drive chain. I will investigate this and fix in this video.
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Good job, well explained! This tends to suggest that this model of RE at least has quality that is commensurate with its low price point. I don't want to be frequently repairing a bike, I want to be riding it!
I have a honda NC 750X never a problem, it's been stood in workshop most of last year. Don't know why I don't ride it always take the Himalayan 😆
I have just upgraded my Himalayan's clutch and carried out this fix on my oil pump. Thank you for the information in this video. atb
Happy to help
Thankyou for clear explanations of problems and cures. Greatly appreciated
Glad you enjoyed the video,thank you
You'd think all the problems would be ironed out, they first produced the bike back in 2016.
I bought mine back in 2022 as a second bike, and to try some green lane riding.
The Himalayan has become my main bike, it's such a pleasure to ride.
I love the fact they're so simple to work on, positively agricultural.
Excellent video and something I'll be doing to mine in the future.
Yeah you are right Abit more care in production and quality of parts and I would have nothing Todo 😜
SUCCESS , you can forget it and enjoy riding, so long as the oil is high quality..
Why chain driven oil pump? On my high mileage Herald 250 Suzuki engine it's gear driven and no sign of exhaust valve problems. It was a cheap bike and ridden hard once warmed up. Excellent video. I like the design of the Himalayan as an attractive workhorse so it's a shame the engine can have these annoying issues.
I hope royal Enfield step up there game,thanks for watching. Make sure you subscribe will be doing plenty this year, riding not repairing I hope.
@@iantoy7778 I was thinking of picking up a 650 Super Meteor but seeing the parts quality of the Himmy, I might keep the Himmy for kicking around the mountains of the Andes, and just pick up a reliable NC750 for long trips. I bought the Himmy as a workhorse replacement for my old Honda GL1000 but though I can climb stars and mountains with it, it is miserable on longer highway trips.
First time i saw that, i thought it was a balancer chain. I find it hard to believe there is no concentric shaft or guide to take play out the chain. Admittedly, it cant be that bad seeing the mileage they have run up......even while rattling.
More modern engine designs have their oil pumps directly driven , or gear driven ; oil delivery is rather important , buy 'if it ain't broke , dont fix it ' applies I suppose !
EXCELLENT video.
10/10.
WELL done.
THANK YOU.
Pleased it was of interest to you.
End of week new video out , I have just replaced the inlet and exhaust valves . Exhaust valve badly worn . My Himalayan now runs and is nice and quiet like it should do with out the noisy tappets.
@@iantoy7778
Thank You.
You are obviously very talented.
Regards.
I'm bothered that my brand new Scram engine is making the same noise, and am hesitant to open it up simply because it IS new. But realistically, I suppose this is the best time to do it! What spares did you have at the ready before you began the job? I'll obviously have to send off for a shim or two. Did you reuse the cover gasket, or buy a new one? Anything else needed?
Thanks for the great videos.
Oil pump drive chain. I stripped the cover off to have a look what was making the noise in there. When I saw that what I need was extra shims I had to order them through the dealer. I have had the clutch cover off probably 4 or 5 times now. I have never fitted a new gasket, just torqued the cover down. It has never leaked. The gaskets seem to be one of the good things that they use.
The valve noise. Try setting your valves but I would recommend the exhaust at 0.20 and the inlet at the standard 0.08. If it continues to rattle after that you need to take the cam cover off so you can see the top of the valves. If you look back through my videos on the valve problems you will see what happened to my exhaust valve. It had a dish in the top of it.
If you need to order valves from Hitchcocks just adjust your valves and ride until your new parts arrive. You will also need Loctite 5900 sealant or similar to seal the cam cover. You need to order new stem seals as the valves don't come with them.
Thanks for watching. Hope this helps.
Great video, surely RE should do a recall if the shim is missing ,
I think it's just bad quality control
@@iantoy7778 I love my 650 that I have had for 3&1/2 years but stupid faults that shouldn’t happen this day and age effect recommendations. R/R relays now some 3rd gear issues
Another great video. I watched the valve rebuild vid first and became pretty disgusted with the RE people for allowing such poor quality parts to be used on the engine. But as an engineer you will understand my premise that the basic design of the bike is flawed from the very start. Honda bikes are built by engineers and RE bikes are built by artistic designers. Honda as in the boxer Goldwing design and the NC750 engine lay the piston stroke horizontal and low on the platform so as to divert damaging vibration away from the delicate components. Hondas are designed by engineers to last and that is why they tend to be a bit frumpy and boring. But the RE bikes are designed by artists to sell concepts rather than mechanical tools. The single vertical piston design of the Himmy creates vertical vibration that is picked up by the headlamp/speedometer mounting tube assembly connected just above the head. Artsy but an engineering nightmare. The vibration travels up the assembly and is amplified, the further away it gets from the engine due to the length, (leverage) and 30 degree rising angle to the piston. The damage takes place due to the 90 degree mounting angles which causes the cheap plastic components to absorb all the vibration that comes in around 3,000rpm on my bike. The engineers should have at a minimum caught the problem mounting a simple accelerometer to the end of the mounting bracket. Then they would have at least been able to calculate the life expectancy of the cheap plastic components they were attaching to it such as the directionals and speedometer which all were all broken on my bike after only 1,500km. The 411 design flaw was eliminated with the advent of the Scram which saved the basic 411 platform and then the new Himalayan 450 took on the Himalayan name. Smart move on the part of RE. Most people would never catch the maneuver. Thought you might find this interesting.
Nonsense R.E. uses engineers from BMW ,Suzuki and Triumph
@@deltabluesdavidraye They can use engineers from anywhere, but it is the management who decides what they produce. Who has more weight in product design? Artists, engineers or the people who pay them? Honda, BMW and Suzuki management put quality and function above aesthetics, that is their selling point. RE is beauty, economy and a retro experience. I bought a Himmy for all that it offered, the idea of all roads, no roads. I was disappointed from day one in the bike stalling constantly at idle and the plastic parts like directionals and speedometer breaking apart within the first 5,000km. After many mods, I finally figured the stalling problem must be in the cam and the auto decompressor unit. During the upgrade to a Kent cam, I discovered that the spring on the decompressor was doing nothing. Old Harleys had the same problem with auto-decompressors. Anyhow the bike now has less vibration, more power, and no longer stalls. To me all the changes made the bike exactly what I want. But I really think that the engineers should have more input in design. I say this from an engineers perspective.
It's not just RE that have issues likes this.
My 2019 BMW boxer is has and is well know for the left hand hydraulic cam chain tensioner being to short causing a really loud rattle at idle. the fix from dealer is a modified part, that they only fit if the bike goes back under warranty. I just shimmed mine with a washer to confirm that was the problem with mine and indeed it is.
I was going to buy the modified tensioner as it's out of warranty, that was about a year ago. I think I'll leave it now.
Man, the more I see the guts of the RE motors, the more I want to run away from this brand. I really want an Himalayan but this things makes me believe they are a really unreliable company. It is not normal to have this slack on the chain, like bad quality components all over the place. The "low" price shouldn´t be an excuse. But people tend to to forgive in these days because of the "price". If I was the CEO of a companny, I would want to build a good quality image above everything. Because in the long term, it would be a win win!
Very true. Many people buy them just because of the low price and live to regret their decision.
Some of us aren't afraid to fix stuff ourselves and this bike makes that easy. Despite its shortcomings it can be repaired with higher quality parts, that is why I bought one. 3 year warranty means you got time to gather up upgrades. If you have to pay to fix it, probably a good idea to steer clear.
This is why I love the Enfields. The price is great. You ride them, fix them. Just tinker with them. You get to know the bike very well. Look at Triumph, beautiful bike. Would I buy one? No way. I would spend all my time polishing it and just looking at it. The Enfields they are a real experience. Just like India, it’s an experience. I will take that any day.
I recently bought a 2023 bike with 1000 miles on the clock. I’m very disappointed to find it has an unpleasant light knocking from 3000 rpm under load in any gear. It’s very annoying. I’ve read many posts on rattles from the top end but this is something different. I don’t think I can just ignore it but don’t know what to do… I enjoy your posts, cheers.
A knocking is unusual above 3000 rpm. To be honest I would really need to listen to the bike to be able to tell what the cause is.
The sound is a bit like the occasional rattle/rumble on my previous CRF 250L at 5000rpm.
@@Taedy it could be pinking (pre-ignition). It would be a good idea to get the valve gap checked. Even though the bike has only done 1000 miles, if not checked from new the valves could be out. The inlet needs to be 0.08 and the exhaust valve, which could be the one causing the problem needs to be 0.23.
Excellent video , thanks , I have subscribed .
I watched your valve change video first , which was also good , but in this video you tell us you are an engineer . I left a comment under the valve video which I think , for you , could be seen as possibly condescending , which was not my intention , as really it was aimed at some of your viewers who might gain a little more understanding of valve gap setting through my comment . I hope you can teach me some new stuff , which is why I have subbed and intend to watch more of your videos . Happy riding . Is the weather better where you live ?
Snow now till February, march, April 😞
There must have been a great reason to move to Bulgaria then ? House prices maybe ? I hate the winter months . Never had a car licence till I was 28 though . How I managed winters with bikes I would not believe now ! Thanks for replying and get warm ! @@iantoy7778
Brilliant video. Great bit of diagnosis mate. I have noticed this on a number of 411 engines and couldn't understand why the noise disappeared when you move the bike to vertical. I've learnt something. Thank you.
@@Trev350 always happy to help if I can
The sound system needs sorting, when you are standing on the far side of the bike you're hard to hear.
Bit like my MZ ts150, they can be made to run quietly, but for most, noisy gearbox and lots of piston slap are the way they go. Guess that is why Honda's cost more😂
Like this lol 😆
Getting ready to replace the oil pump chain on my 2020 Interceptor with over 60,000 kilometers while installing a Rekluse clutch. I will check to make sure the sprockets are in line with each other and hope to eliminate some slack also. Already have 15,000 kms on an S&S cam and Weisco 83.5mm pistons; as a 743cc it is quite roudy and too much fun. 😊
These bikes are not all they are cracked up to be great that you’ve found a solution for most of the problems you’ve found I just wonder what problems will be found with the new 450 royal enfeild which has a brand new engine they changed to a short stroke engine unlike the long stroke on your one ,old jimmy W Aust
Time will tell with the 450. My guess is there will be problems
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching. Hope you enjoyed it
Your's being an old type engine,
I wonder if a single grade oil would be better ?,
I have run Vincents on 40 in Summer and 30 in winter, One bike is a bit worn and I run 50 weight !.
When I have given it a few Km I will drop the oil and change the filter and iam going to use different oil.
Thanks for the video, well done. I have a 2020 Himalayan and I'm fitting a new cam and timing chain, decided to open up the other side after seeing this. Mine has 1 shim behind the sprocket and 1 in front. There is a scary amount of play in the chain and sprocket. I will be ordering a new chain and some extra shims now. To be clear you placed 2 factory shims behind and 1 in front?
Yeah 2 factory shims between sprocket and oil pump and 1 at front of sprocket.
I replaced the chain as well but not a lot of difference. Don't know why it does not have a chain tensioner on it.
After watching this im starting to regret my decision and think inshoukd have brought the Honda cb500x 😢 or a KlR 650 or Maybe Suzuki Dr 650. Honda have some great bikes.
I've got a new '23 Scram in my basement with one mile on it, just waiting for the arrival of spring. After completing the installation of a TEC cam , I test-ran it briefly and noticed the same noise as yours, which also disappeared when the bike was standing vertically. Initially, I thought your engine must have been a one-off, but if two model years later, the factory apparently still sees fit to allow the oil pump gear to float, is there a possibility that it is intended to be that way? For example, might the additional shim possibly cause premature wear to occur to the oil pump?
No because it's still got free play
Grande dica
How did you measure the gap between the sprocket and the shoulder of the crankshaft splines?
Oiling the oil pump chain and the new shim would save wear of dry parts at 1st start-up.
Pushed the sprocket up against the oil pump then measured the distance between the outer face of the sprocket and the outer circlip . Deducted 0.47 mm the thickness of outer shim that goes up against circlip . That aloud me able to fit two factory shims of 0.47 mm each behind the sprocket and the oil pump and still have some free play but putting the sprocket inline with the crank gear.
@@iantoy7778 said "measured the distance between the outer face of the sprocket and the outer circlip". With a feeler gauge or micrometer?
Thanks for the video and the explanation. My 16000 mile 2020 himmy has always been rattly, does quieten a bit when hot which makes me wonder how much of the tolerances are for heat expansion of parts ….. certainly no engineer so be interested in your views on that ! Ride safe
Yeah you are right the large gap is for expansion,but I have not come across such a big valve gap on other bikes as this.
The problem is it might be a reasonable gap when the engine is at its hottest so it does not leave the valve open slightly and burn it out. But what about when it's cold or running in cool temperatures. The valve adjuster is just hammering away at the valve. The inlet is 0.08 mm and shows no sigh of wear at all.
I suppose it would be interesting to run the engine on a very hot day and straight away check the valve clearance then to see how much gap there actually was, in theory.
I think you may have mentioned it in one of your videos about the gap being specified for Indian summers on an air cooled bikes (maybe the Tec guy made that point also ?) A good and interesting idea to check when the engine is as hot as it could get - mid summer long run - a bit of a faff to do but would be interesting to see how much of that gap is consumed. Thanks for answering my query@@iantoy7778
Surely this is under warranty ?
Maybe, but I always do my own repairs.
Thanks for the comment
I'd be more interested in the question of whether this is a basic design fault 🤔