Very interesting repairs and modifications young man. I like the technique of swapping direction mid weld with a long arc to the other end and come back to where you left off. I would normally use run off tabs or hot snots in the ends, feather them in and then run a hot pass in. Going to try your way next time.
Very nice work. As a hint I believe that when you start the truck you need to push the clutch in. I know this is an older presentation but really enjoyed your narration. The bumper is stainless.
Hi, don't be too hard on yourself if you've seen one weld being filmed there's not much more too see, you're content on fabrication techniques are amazing as you are visually eyeing these simple solutions regards🏴🇬🇧👍
I am excited I found this channel! I have learned a lot, I binge watched all night long! You explain things in a way it clicks with my hillbilly brain! Well done please don’t stop making new vids!
Use a magnet, a magnet will not stick to stainless steel,if it sticks a little bit. Then it has some carbon steel in it...thanks for sharing....let me know where I can buy a 10 one hundred key 😊
You got that right...I haven't researched how they do it but I assume they have special filming equipment...not just an old phone with spadderballs burned into the screen...LOL
Your Kenworth bumper is most likely a 400 grade stainless, one of the things that I see guys doing in correctly when welding on stainless steel is using steel rod, whatever you weld on stainless you have to use stainless rod any welds done with mild steel rod will usually separate from the base metal , 400 grades of stainless will rust and are somewhat magnetic, your log trucks are sure different than ours out here In the north west
Nice repair, seeing all those cracks reminds me of auto transport trailers. They build those things out of such thin material to keep the weight down so they can haul more cars that they are always cracking. So someone pushed the clutch all the way to the floor while the truck was moving and broke the tabs off of the clutch brake. That's why you have to put it in gear to engage the PTO.
Thanks for commenting and explaining the issue with the clutch brake...I do it that way because that's how the owner showed me to do it on that truck but he never really explained why that truck had to be done that way...nice to know...that's what it's all about...learning more and sharing experiences
@@NBSWELDING Think of a clutch brake as a 3-4" flat washer with (2) 1/4" x 1/4" tabs in the inside hole. Those tabs slide into 2 grooves in the input shaft of the transmission. when you depress the clutch al the way to the floor , the washer is pinched between the throwout bearing and the front of the transmission. this will stop the input shaft from turning. What happens is someone depresses the clutch all the way to the floor while the transmission is in gear and the truck is moving. This breaks the tabs off and the clutch brake won't stop the input shaft. I'll bet when you start the truck with your foot off of the clutch, then push the clutch in, it will grind until the input shaft stops turning. Tell the owner they make a 2 piece clutch brake so he doesn't need to remove the transmission to replace it.
I charge for that type of work by the hour...like a Soldier gets the same pay for marchin' as he does fightin' Washin'..torchin'.. grindin'..weldin'..don't make a shit to me I charge the same
I've been watching your videos and like that you share little tips and tricks that you use. I really appreciate that. A question I had on when you were welding those plates on the rear, your last pass you said you were using 5/32 7014. Were the initial passes with 7018? Why did you switch to the 7014? I'm just trying to learn from ya. Not a criticism. Thanks
All passes were 7014...I use it for its higher metal deposit...the flux contains iron powder that becomes weld when used correctly 7018 is awesome but terribly slow...a 5/32" 7014 will get more welding done in less time than a 3/16" 7018
@@NBSWELDING ok, gotcha, thanks for getting back to me. Learned something new. So really 7018 should be used when you need the elongation properties that 7018 has. And if you don't, 7014 is a good choice. Is that right?
There are several different times when 7018 is better than 7014...the elasticity and strength of 7018 is superior for sure so if its a critical application its a good choice...7018 is also the best choice when dealing with dissimilar metals of various hardness or when repairing cast steel If you know that both pieces of steel that you are welding together are mild steel in good condition and you want to deposit metal a little faster then that is when the 7014 shines I will sometimes use 7014 on mild steel repair work if the steel is quite thick and I decide to do some pilot welding...the pilot welding technique is when you achieve strength by running pass after pass and really pile it on there...LOL You can deposit metal even faster with 7024...but that only works well in the flat position
Yes them bumpers are coated with stainless and and the the rest is mild. Another way to check is to check with a magnet or if unsure use 309 L-16 stainless rods.
The only reason I didn't use 7018 is because it is so slow and inefficient at getting weld metal on the material...I tend to use higher deposit rods when I can just to get more welding done in less time
@@NBSWELDING thats understandable. As a fellow welder as well, from what i understand 7014 doesnt have the same qualities as 7018 would. Sure still has the 70,000 tensile strength but for shock loading or rigitity purposes 7018 is more superior. Just curious is all
You are correct…in tests I’m sure it could be proven that 7018 is superior…but when tests are done they always compare the same material in the same amount so there would be different results if time were considered in the test…I’d like to do some testing of my own so that is an idea for another video I guess Once you have learned to use the higher deposit rods and you are using them on something where you have the option to weld on it as much or as little as you want then how much more material can be added and how much more strength is being added by adding more material?…even if the material your adding is not as good for shock, elongation, or elasticity…but what if there is way more of it I think that if you gave me one hour to weld on a plate with 7018 and then one hour to weld on the same size plate with the same size 7014 then I could add more mass to the plate with 7014 in the same amount of time…and if it were in the flat position where I could use 7024 then even more steel could be added
@@NBSWELDING interesting way of looking at it, 7018 is a fast fill rod too i thought? 🤔😅👍 Maybe i was refering for the structural purposes. Either way you will do what works for you no doubt. Mighty fine job regardless.
Great videos Thanks for sharing your knowledge with my kind, the weekend warrior.
That truck has banged around harder than Paris Hilton.
Hell yea...they both have had too many big logs slammed in their bunks 😁
Very interesting repairs and modifications young man. I like the technique of swapping direction mid weld with a long arc to the other end and come back to where you left off.
I would normally use run off tabs or hot snots in the ends, feather them in and then run a hot pass in. Going to try your way next time.
Cool test with the forklift. Thanks for the video. Despite not runnin a computer, your videos are great.
Very nice work. As a hint I believe that when you start the truck you need to push the clutch in. I know this is an older presentation but really enjoyed your narration. The bumper is stainless.
You are correct
Thank you for sharing the 7014 start-stop tip.
Any time!
Hi, don't be too hard on yourself if you've seen one weld being filmed there's not much more too see, you're content on fabrication techniques are amazing as you are visually eyeing these simple solutions regards🏴🇬🇧👍
I am excited I found this channel! I have learned a lot, I binge watched all night long! You explain things in a way it clicks with my hillbilly brain! Well done please don’t stop making new vids!
Thanks for watching and commenting
"West Virginia Amazing Fabrication." Fantastic! Love to watch. I learn something new every time, so THANKS!!
Thanks
another great vid
Hey CB Awesome Job 👍💪💪💪
Thank you
I learn a lot of ideas from you, ur very good to explain.
That's great... thank you
Use a magnet, a magnet will not stick to stainless steel,if it sticks a little bit. Then it has some carbon steel in it...thanks for sharing....let me know where I can buy a 10 one hundred key 😊
I appreciate your acknowledgment of Jodi. He’s pretty hard to beat!
very clever! great job. You have a great skill to visualize solutions, very creative
Great video! I don't think people understand how difficult it is to get actually useable arc shots when your both the welder and filmer.
You got that right...I haven't researched how they do it but I assume they have special filming equipment...not just an old phone with spadderballs burned into the screen...LOL
Another great video👍
That I beam was certainly banged up.
Certainly better when you had finished the job
great work again 😺
Your Kenworth bumper is most likely a 400 grade stainless, one of the things that I see guys doing in correctly when welding on stainless steel is using steel rod, whatever you weld on stainless you have to use stainless rod any welds done with mild steel rod will usually separate from the base metal , 400 grades of stainless will rust and are somewhat magnetic, your log trucks are sure different than ours out here In the north west
Thanks for the info...I've had good luck welding stainless with 7018 in the past...it will rust but it generally will hold
North west, lol.
Nice repair, seeing all those cracks reminds me of auto transport trailers. They build those things out of such thin material to keep the weight down so they can haul more cars that they are always cracking. So someone pushed the clutch all the way to the floor while the truck was moving and broke the tabs off of the clutch brake. That's why you have to put it in gear to engage the PTO.
Thanks for commenting and explaining the issue with the clutch brake...I do it that way because that's how the owner showed me to do it on that truck but he never really explained why that truck had to be done that way...nice to know...that's what it's all about...learning more and sharing experiences
@@NBSWELDING Think of a clutch brake as a 3-4" flat washer with (2) 1/4" x 1/4" tabs in the inside hole. Those tabs slide into 2 grooves in the input shaft of the transmission. when you depress the clutch al the way to the floor , the washer is pinched between the throwout bearing and the front of the transmission. this will stop the input shaft from turning. What happens is someone depresses the clutch all the way to the floor while the transmission is in gear and the truck is moving. This breaks the tabs off and the clutch brake won't stop the input shaft. I'll bet when you start the truck with your foot off of the clutch, then push the clutch in, it will grind until the input shaft stops turning. Tell the owner they make a 2 piece clutch brake so he doesn't need to remove the transmission to replace it.
chrome spray paint.
Only hand i watch on YT
Thank you 👍
Heavy Metal
I suspect that bumper is nickel plated
Don't remember but I'm thinkin it was stainless steel
They should have given you a washed truck. Charge them extra $ for searching cracks on muddy truck
I charge for that type of work by the hour...like a Soldier gets the same pay for marchin' as he does fightin'
Washin'..torchin'.. grindin'..weldin'..don't make a shit to me I charge the same
Half inch plate. 20.4 pounds per square foot. HEAVY METAL. 😁
I've been watching your videos and like that you share little tips and tricks that you use. I really appreciate that. A question I had on when you were welding those plates on the rear, your last pass you said you were using 5/32 7014. Were the initial passes with 7018? Why did you switch to the 7014? I'm just trying to learn from ya. Not a criticism. Thanks
All passes were 7014...I use it for its higher metal deposit...the flux contains iron powder that becomes weld when used correctly
7018 is awesome but terribly slow...a 5/32" 7014 will get more welding done in less time than a 3/16" 7018
@@NBSWELDING ok, gotcha, thanks for getting back to me. Learned something new. So really 7018 should be used when you need the elongation properties that 7018 has. And if you don't, 7014 is a good choice. Is that right?
There are several different times when 7018 is better than 7014...the elasticity and strength of 7018 is superior for sure so if its a critical application its a good choice...7018 is also the best choice when dealing with dissimilar metals of various hardness or when repairing cast steel
If you know that both pieces of steel that you are welding together are mild steel in good condition and you want to deposit metal a little faster then that is when the 7014 shines
I will sometimes use 7014 on mild steel repair work if the steel is quite thick and I decide to do some pilot welding...the pilot welding technique is when you achieve strength by running pass after pass and really pile it on there...LOL
You can deposit metal even faster with 7024...but that only works well in the flat position
@@NBSWELDING awesome, thank you very much. Really appreciate the info
You might be able to use the computer but u sure can use a welder
Thanks...maybe I should start watching CZcams videos about computers but that sounds boring....heck with that
Do you have a video on how you made your straightedge?
If your meaning my magnetic burnin guide..That is a factory made burnin guide from Curve-0-Mark
bakersgas.com/products/curv-o-mark-14791
I don't believe that was superstart 10 onehundred. It seemed smaller
Is there a reason why you didnt use 7018 for the grapple bracket?
Yes them bumpers are coated with stainless and and the the rest is mild. Another way to check is to check with a magnet or if unsure use 309 L-16 stainless rods.
The only reason I didn't use 7018 is because it is so slow and inefficient at getting weld metal on the material...I tend to use higher deposit rods when I can just to get more welding done in less time
@@NBSWELDING thats understandable. As a fellow welder as well, from what i understand 7014 doesnt have the same qualities as 7018 would. Sure still has the 70,000 tensile strength but for shock loading or rigitity purposes 7018 is more superior. Just curious is all
You are correct…in tests I’m sure it could be proven that 7018 is superior…but when tests are done they always compare the same material in the same amount so there would be different results if time were considered in the test…I’d like to do some testing of my own so that is an idea for another video I guess
Once you have learned to use the higher deposit rods and you are using them on something where you have the option to weld on it as much or as little as you want then how much more material can be added and how much more strength is being added by adding more material?…even if the material your adding is not as good for shock, elongation, or elasticity…but what if there is way more of it
I think that if you gave me one hour to weld on a plate with 7018 and then one hour to weld on the same size plate with the same size 7014 then I could add more mass to the plate with 7014 in the same amount of time…and if it were in the flat position where I could use 7024 then even more steel could be added
@@NBSWELDING interesting way of looking at it, 7018 is a fast fill rod too i thought? 🤔😅👍 Maybe i was refering for the structural purposes. Either way you will do what works for you no doubt. Mighty fine job regardless.
Talking too much a little action on project's