My Favorite Template Routing Tips and Tricks
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- čas přidán 10. 07. 2024
- Get the K-M Magnetic Dovetail Jig and K-M Stop Block here: lddy.no/stih
This week’s woodworking skill builder is Template Routing Tips and Tricks. I go over every one of my favorite techniques from sticking the template securely to your piece, to cutting close to your line, grain direction and so much more.. I really can’t wait to see what you create! Let me know what you’d like to see next. Thanks for watching! Please like, comment and subscribe. Cheers!
Read the blog on this video: kmtools.com/blogs/news/templa...
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Tools Discussed in Video
MY Favorite Flush Trim Bit: bit.ly/UltFlushTrim USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
2nd Favorite Flush Trim Bit: bit.ly/2K0o1om USE CODE JKATZMOSES15
Double Stick Tape: amzn.to/2NsBcAS
Moxon Vise Template: bit.ly/32ngW7F
Jay’s Adult Nesting Chair Template: bit.ly/2N4ZaSp
Jay’s Child Nesting Chair Template: bit.ly/31ZYAtd
Get the K-M Magnetic Dovetail Jig, T-Shirts and K-M Stop Block here: goo.gl/XzEmMa
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Buy the Katz-Moses Magnetic Dovetail Jig: lddy.no/stiz
The Katz-Moses Woodworking Apron: lddy.no/stir
I have Walnut Slabs for sale: lddy.no/stj0
Buy the Katz-Moses Stop Block: lddy.no/stiz
BitsBits is the BEST place to buy router bits: bit.ly/BitsBits USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
Total Boat Epoxy: bit.ly/2I3Q8m4 10% Discount code JKATZMO
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Tools I love:
The Katz-Moses Woodworking Apron: lddy.no/stir
My Favorite Dozuki Saw: lddy.no/stit
My Favorite Ryoba Saw: lddy.no/stiv
Marking Gauge: amzn.to/2nlXLuQ
Marking Knife: amzn.to/2nm39Ok
NEW Suizan Flush Trim Saw: lddy.no/stix
Stanley Sweetheart Chisels: amzn.to/2mVMTkF
Knew Concepts Fret Saw: amzn.to/2FUDbYZ
Dewalt Planer Package: amzn.to/2thEf6O
Forrest 10” Combo Blade: amzn.to/2Fdaee3
Festool Tape Measure: amzn.to/2oS3cjD
Starrett 6” Combination Square: amzn.to/2oP3dVw
Woodstock 3 in 1 Shoulder Plane: amzn.to/2FgAS1A
Stanley Low Angle Jack Plane: amzn.to/2oV4I4O
Dewaxed Shellac Flakes: amzn.to/2FeqqYh
Abalone Inlay :amzn.to/2rjMTxe
Abalone Inlay Alternate: goo.gl/DHonFy
5 Minute Epoxy: amzn.to/2FijsSa
Triton 3 ¼ hp Router (with built in lift and edge guide incl): amzn.to/2LBw3Go
Kreg Router Plate: amzn.to/2A7oVNC
Triton Bushing Set: amzn.to/2A7pSpa
Bosch 1 HP Colt Router Set With Fixed and Plunge Base: amzn.to/2mHP1wY
Bosch Edge Guide: amzn.to/2uRRKs2
Bosch Bushings Set: amzn.to/2JUNRYb
Centering Cone: amzn.to/2OjgOAf
MY CNC MACHINES (I highly recommend both)
Bescutter Laser’s Website: bit.ly/bescutter
Avid CNCs of all shapes and sizes: bit.ly/3cdKdqA
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Lumix GH5-s and main lens: amzn.to/2J49F7m
30mm Macro Lens: amzn.to/2GJXtTT
15mm Lens: amzn.to/2NafUox
50mm Lens I use for product shots: amzn.to/2mehs5y
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50MM f/1.8 for those tight shots: amzn.to/2tpAoVm
10-18mm Lens for the wide shots: amzn.to/2FZrhNM - Jak na to + styl
Tools Discussed in Video
MY Favorite Flush Trim Bit: bit.ly/UltFlushTrim USE CODE JKATZMOSES15 for 15% off
2nd Favorite Flush Trim Bit: bit.ly/2K0o1om USE CODE JKATZMOSES15
Double Stick Tape: amzn.to/2NsBcAS
Moxon Vise Template: bit.ly/32ngW7F
Jay’s Adult Nesting Chair Template: bit.ly/2N4ZaSp
Jay’s Child Nesting Chair Template: bit.ly/31ZYAtd
Get the K-M Magnetic Dovetail Jig, T-Shirts and K-M Stop Block here: goo.gl/XzEmMa
I have the same router and clamp! I've never seen anyone use the clamp as a safety pin, GREAT idea!
Love your work boss
Thanks for all useful tricks. .....
you prolly dont care but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot my password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Marlon Watson instablaster ;)
@Roland Wesley I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out atm.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I've watched 1000 router videos. This is the first time I've ever seen a safety pin and its use. Thanks for this video.
That’s the 1st time I’ve seen a video where grain direction and routing has been explained. It amazes me in these video how great craftsmen with years of experience rout against the grain when they don’t need to
I watched this four years ago when it came out. I just got a monster compression bit. Kinda like the one you show. I’m a bit intimidated LOL. But excited to use it. It’s funny how even though I’ve seen this video… and I’ve learned so much since then… I’m still learning more as I watch this again. It just makes more sense now as I have more experience. Thanks for sharing.
The router is my favorite tool in the shop. I'm definitely going to enjoy this series.
Very clear instructional style. I like how you don’t talk down to your audience. Keep it up. 👍
Love these videos, the amount of routering iv done still things in this videos iv never thought of. Also have to add, I never knew what the pin that came with my router table did, until now 😀
Love your passion in explaining these procedures so well.
Very good, Jonathan. I for one really appreciate workshop technique videos - A LOT! So much to learn and so little time!
Love the channel man. I don’t have many woodworking tools but I’m penny pinching and buying them up when and as I can. Goal is to have a full woodworking shop in a few years and in the meantime I just watch all I can and learn as much as I can. Appreciate your work.
Every video is ALWAYS helpful, so many thanks.
So thankful I found this. Helped a lot with what I’m doing wrong. I am new at this so I know things happen but that tear out sucks ..
Building an Adirondack chair for EXAMPLE … I have determined exactly where my fasteners need to go when assembling the chair. The plus now is... I don't need tape for routing.
*I simply counter sink a screw through the existing hole in the template and into the piece of wood.
*I visit my local hardware store and ask for "scrap" plexiglass/acrylic and pay pennies on a dollar. I use them for templates.
*I draw my outline onto the piece of wood... then remove the screws and set aside the valuable template.
*I can now with confidence, cut as close to the outline as possible without endangering a template.
*Afterwards, I realign the template using those same screw holes to the lumber and begin safely routing.
*When routing is complete, I remove the screws and then use those holes for my fasteners for assembly. Of course, if you are using larger fasteners, simply drill out a larger hole.
*I love the acrylic/plexi because the shape stays true after countless uses... and... if you accidently drop a template on the floor as I have, it doesn't dent like a wood type template would.
*happy routing!
acryl have shit and dangerous use, this material have than glass broken easy, and too hard, lot better use thin wood or ABS or PVC plastic.
Your video is such good reminder. To do and not To do. Please do more videos for us... thank you big guy, at the end of the day I can still count to 10 on my fingers. With both eyes open!!! Bob
As a newby, I love these training videos. Thanks.
FANTASTIC video!
Man thank you sooo much Katz! I have been making handles with a straight cut bit and pattern. I keep getting the violent reactions. I finally gave up and went from bandsaw to oscillating sander, luckily with my fingers in tact.
Thank you for the tips and tricks. Cannot wait for more of your router series. The router is one of the mysterious tools in the shop that I think I am using properly but this video has shown me I am not. Looking forward to learning more.
Great info. The close-up camera shots y'all use are way better than most on CZcams. Have a great weekend.
Great video! Admittedly, I sought it out only after I had a kickback incident. Minor: I wasn't hurt and the workpiece didn't suffer any non-fixable damage. I got lucky. With your tips, I now know what I did wrong and how to more safely use my router table. Big thanks!!
Awesome vids Jon. Just wanna say bought your Katz Moses dovetail jig and absolutely love it. Anyone interested in doing dovetails don’t hesitate to buy this jig. It’s is genius
This channel is the real deal thanks for showing mistakes
I learned the hard lesson of “don’t leave much to trim with the router” recently. Was like wrestling a bucking Bronco on the piece. Such good advice in this video, wish I watched this video before last weekend. Haha!
Wow! Thanks very much for this video, Jonathan. These are good band saw tips as well as router tips. I'm still learning to use my benchtop band saw and router table and this couldn't be more timely. I've been afraid to pull the trigger on the moxon vise templates because I pretty much suck at both tools. Now I'm feeling like I might be able to make a go of that vise with a little more practice on these tips. Thanks.
I have learned a lot from your videos and this is a new skill set I am starting to learn so thank you so much for the clear and concise instruction.
LOVIT , Thx’s for Sharing and Now Maybe I will be able to stop my tear outs !
Thx’s
Just wrecked a piece due to grain direction yesterday, so I wish the weird vagaries of the Content Algorithm had offered this one up earlier. That said, thanks for the vid, will ruin fewer workpieces in the future! :D
Nice description, i knew a lot of it but it was a good refresher and certainly a good thorough description about feed direction vs grain direction for anyone who is a little confused about it. I had a situation with a 1/4" template bit in a table that caught like that and it also bent the shaft of the bit so it caused some INSANE vibration, so your kickback demonstration is very important. Also, I want one of those double bearing bits now.
Same here-had thin “fins” I was routing with my template, and I chewed up two of them and had one pulled out of my hands. SCARY. I had no clue that I needed to worry about grain-just the direction I was supposed to feed the workpiece. Thanks, Jonathan!
Thanks, Jonathan.
As always, very informative and entertaining.
Thanks bud!
just had a terrible day templating. the double bearing bit is exactly what I needed to see
This video was great and very helpful. Thank you very much!
When I worked in a cabinet shop, we used vacuum to hold the templates to our part. A vacuum pump with a little bit of tubing with plastic quick connects.
This was so helpful. Thanks for all the fantastic videos.
My absolute pleasure bud.
Really good useful information, thanks Jonathon
A few of things:
Your use of the term "safety pin" implies using it provides some sure element of safety, which it might not. Porter Cable calls it a starting pin and I prefer that terminology as that's what you use it for. You generally only need it for starting on smaller pieces, when you need to approach the bit very slowly or to help maintain control of the situation where you need to start routing one edge but not the edge perpendicular to it. Like many others here, I didn't know what it was supposed to be used for until I saw a demonstration on it at a Rockler store. It came with my Incra router lift. I use it occasionally. When I was making rail-and-stile panels, I used the starting pin a lot as those bits are huge.
Visible tear out against the grain depends on the bit and the wood. Tear out cannot be eliminated, only minimized. The harder the wood, the worse it is. Going in the other direction by flipping the work piece can sometimes help, but sometimes there's no choice. Take the case of the hand grips on the leaves of a butler tray table when all sides of the hand grip need to be rounded, with and against the grain. Going slow helps but that will tend to produce router bit burn. That burn can be sanded off and repaired easier than grossly visible tear out.
The flush trim bit can help produce very straight and accurate cuts in pieces that are just too long or awkward to cut on any other device. You just need a long straight edge clamped to your work piece (and any work piece needs to be secured to the work bench with at least 2 clamps). The larger the diameter of the flush trim bit the more effective and smoother the cut will be. A 1 degree cutting angle error made in a dining room table top piece 40 inches across will result in a lateral error on the far end of "only" 0.7 inches. If your table will have leaves, nothing will line up! You cannot fix this and have a clean edge with any other tool besides your hand router, trim bit and a nice straight edge. A jointer will not guarantee parallel surfaces, only straight ones.
Using templates is very useful but not problem-free. The double stick tape will pull off material from it or it's not sticking well enough. If you plan to use the template a lot, applying shellac to its surface and letting it dry overnight will help the tape stick to the template better without removing template material when separating the pieces or pulling off the tape. The bearing will mar the surface of the template on repeated use. If the template is hardwood, that is best and the harder the better. Damaged template surfaces can be so-so repaired with the epoxy-type wood fillers (Bondo, etc.), but full strength takes much longer than the advertised15 minutes. Nitto tape is very expensive and you appeared to use a lot of it. I use the 3M Scotch foam double stick tape. It is less than 1/6" thick and you don't need very much of it. Two to four small pieces, 3/8", is generally all that you need. If there is any warping of the template or work piece, the paper-type double stick tape may be too thin to adequately adhere to it, so the foam tape would be definitely better. The putty knife method of separation is fine if you don't want to reuse the tape (sometimes the tape can be used more than once). It can also scratch up the taped surfaces. I use it when I can't separate the pieces just using my fingers, which is often. I avoid thin templates. MDF makes the worst templates but it's cheap and easy to work with other than the toxic, MDF dust. Plywood is not much better because the actual surface rested on by the trim bearing is only the thin, outer surfaces of the plywood.
Useful video. It's always worth it to spend some time watching a J-Katz production
Thank you my friend
I have even sent this video to friends so that they understand the value of this technique and the way to do this safely.
Very down to earth common sense well explained.. Thanks.
Really like the videos. I’m new to woodworking and your videos are definitely educational
You provide great videos and super explanations! This is all very helpful to this woodworking rookie!!! Thanks!
My pleasure bud
Look forward to the series! Currently planning a router table with some storage to clean up a little around the garage.
Starting the build today actually. Pretty pumped. Got all the bells and whistles.
You are very thorough with your videos. Good information. A little trick I use is to first install a larger diameter bearing on the cutter. This take a "rough" cut first. Replace the original bearing, and finish cut the piece.
Some bits have 2 bearings, usually the same size, but, maybe one could be larger for the 'rough cut'. Then it only takes a height change.
Great Tutorial very valuable pointers ! Thank. You
Very helpful information.......thanks!
Thank you Katz 😊.
....thank YOU soooooo much !!!! kinde regards from Switzerland !!!
When I took woodshop in junior high (as opposed to Home Ec), I tried to use a router free-hand to cut my name out. I came out so bad I chucked it into the scrap bin. I never even attempted when I took woodshop in college (yeah, BS Industrial Tech - woodshop, plastics shop, and metal shop were core electives).
Now that I'm getting to the point where I just have to use a router I'm afraid whatever I do will come out jacked and wood's expensive. I been putting off finishing the cool redwood porch glider because of that fear. It's gonna be somebody's Christmas gift at this rate...
this was a great help! thanks
Nitto Permacel is my favorite double stick tape - I use it for CNC fixturing, and I have to dissolve the adhesive with rubbing alcohol to remove it. I'll definitely give your recommendation a try, though.
Excellent video, wish I'd seen it earlier, but will be very helpful in the future.
Wish I watched this video before I attempted to router around a jig. I made a pigs ear of it. "Nay mind" Now I know what went wrong !! Thanks very much now I can finish my garden bench with more confidence.
Great video, thanks!
Always learn lots. Thanks for the video...rr Normandy, France
thank you cool Katz great stuff
Thanks, i have never done any template routing, but I have a big order for some boards and that might make it a little faster while cutting down sanding time. What's the heaviest cut you take using a template?
Oooooooooohhhh!!!!! Great recommendations on how to do the curves! These are great tips for a newbie routererer! Ha ha ha ha
I just started making that chair and had some issues routing that hole. I had a little tear out but it was all inside the hole and will be easy to hide. Still scary for the beginner though.
Thanks for all of the amazing tips and help.
Great video! :)
I seen that bit being too high glad to see you show that you used it like that after all! We all make screw ups just another reason why an extra template sometimes helps.
Thank you sir for a really useful video bless you mate from across the pond … liked and subscribed 😃😃
Very good tips thank you
...thank YOU very much !!!! very interessting !!! kind regards from Sitzerland !!!
Best video ever
Thank you!!
saw Dave P make a quick and dirty router box-joint sled/jig. would love to see your take on that
I use 1/4" PVC or ABS sheet for my templates that get lots of hard use and they don't break when prying them up.
Love that router bit, definitely want to pick one up at some point. That ain't cheap. :) Keep up the great work.
Agreed but I really have had that uncoated one for 3 years and it's still sharp AF. Honestly it's one of those once every 5-10 year purchases that is a serious game changer. You can route the gnarliest grain in the wrong direction without a problem.
@@katzmosestools Definitely. Still looking for some xmas light vids. :) Don't know if you are still doing that.?
Here's an old one hahaha czcams.com/video/HydtrQ0WY2I/video.html
Maybe I'll do one this year
Great video Jonathan. I have a Limbert A&C table I want to build that requires template routing for the legs. This was helpful. Thanks. - I need one of those bits with bearings on the top and bottom for sure.
Send pictures when you complete it. I would love to see it.
Jonathan Katz-Moses I’ll definitely post a video of the project on my CZcams channel. Hopefully I’ll get it done early next year. Right now I’m making Christmas presents.
Would love to see you do a box with a locking miter bit.
great video! would like a tutorial on routing small piece, i.e. toy pieces
Thanks!
Your videos are great. Can you please put a link to the bendable vacuum attachment that you have on your router table?
Great deal of information on this video, love it. Is there one already (or upcoming) that shows an easy efficient way to route multiple spaced straight grooves on a workpiece? I'm new to using a router and haven't been able to figure an uncomplicated way to do this.
I think I saw the wood whisper do it first but it’s blue masking tape with a drop of ca glue and it works good and comes off easy too
I've used it before but not a big fan. Seems to come off too easy for me and sometimes I get squeeze out beyond my tape. Plus for $14 these rolls last me a couple years and there's no setup. Blue tape is crazy expensive to be using it for something its not really intended for. IMHO I can use 4 little tiny pieces vs 8 big pieces of blue tape.
I was going to suggest the same. Watch Ben at crimson guitars he uses it a lot.
I have a feeling the wood whisperer mentioned he got the tip from a crimson guitar video
@@katzmosestools Tried both too. I strictly use double sided tape. Its definitely not coming loose.
For the series include some beyond the basic jigs like spline cutters and such. Plenty of that kind of thing on YT now.
I've done video on splines o. The router table called 4 creative miter splines
Thanks so much for this video. how to do cut an outside 3/4" radius on a 12" x 4" piece making a radius cut on the 4" vertical side ,top to bottom if this makes sense? Using a flush trim bit or roundover bit? thanks.
Thank you for this video man I'm new to the woodwork scene and just bought a router (Bosch
GKF125CEK) and am afraid of using it because of the dangers I've heard about... I don't want to be afraid of it rather I want to respect it. I've been trying educate myself on them so that I could do just that. One thing that I would like to know is the difference between a trim router and a regular router besides one is bigger than the other. Can you do the same type of cuts with the trim that you can do with the reg router and is so how should I do so? Is it safe to do so? Another great thing would be to show us the proper way to use the most popular used bits.
Nitto tape is a similar product that works well. I use it on a desktop PCB mill. It even held down machinable wax. Like spec tape it doesn’t need much to get the job done.
Scotch double sided office tape also works in a pinch IF you’re careful. It won’t re-adhere once removed and it needs more of it though.
Great tips. I'll check them out. Usually a roll of the stuff in the video last me a couple years. I think I've bought 3 rolls in my lifetime.
@@katzmosestools For removing the template it usually works pretty well to pry up an end just far enough to get a grip on the 2 pieces and then rather than prying/pulling straight apart try shearing the parts apart sideways. For me there is much less muscle involved and the forces are across the width of the template with little risk of banding and breaking it.
Thanks for a great informative video. Its great to watch something that is exactly to the point. Too many videos where the host hasn't set up their camera properly and then starts carrying on about his lunch and half way into the vid he skips all the useful stuff. Cheers Greg
Where can I buy the pivot pin that threads into the router lift? Thanks for a great demo.
Great video. Question: When you removed the template, it looks like you have a second thin piece between the template and the workpiece. True? If so, how thick is it? and would it work to just use a thicker template? Thanks. Love your videos.
Thank you for sharing a great video 👍👍👍 I don’t know anything about routing but I have the need to template rout 1/8” plywood for a project, what router bit and machine do you recommend to do something like that, thank you I really need some input by a professional
Hi Jonathan et al, got a tip for easily removing the leftover tape when you're done? TIA.
On the flush trim bit do you recommend an upcut or a downcut for the small one you say upcut in the video but the link is for the downcut. I tried to research a little on it but I cannot seem to figure it out.
I'm looking forward to the router series. I'm still trying to wrap my head around the cut direction and climb cuts and tearout and that kind of stuff. You touched on it here, but for me there wasn't enough explaining with the demonstration. It just went by very fast.
Get a handful of straws and lay them out on a table. Offset each one say a half inch apart as you go. When you start at the top routing and going "downhill" the next straw inline is 1/2 inch longer and supports the previous one. Starting at the bottom and routing "uphill" as you would cut each straw there would be a 1/2 inch where there is no support and much more likely to tear out.
I bought that compression, dual bearing bit from bits and bit! Thanks for the discount! Is your bandsaw the 17” Grizzly 35th anniversary edition?
Do you ever use those router table pins? I saw them one some table for those end cuts that you mentioned.
20 seconds later... 🤦♂️
Great info and content .... THANKS. Two quick questions: When routing plywood, how important is routing with grain direction, if important at all? How do I minimize the fuzzies when routing plywood? Thanks in advance for the info!
plywood i has used downcutting plade not fuzz lot.
"and I just get it up a little bit at a time... "... That's what she said LOL!
Seriously... As usual great tips JKM!
Just the tip though!
While I’m saving for my triton, plate, and the 1/2 spiral flush up/dn astra bit, etc... what 1/4 shank flush trim bit from bitsbits would you recommend? I’ve looked at the W-UDFT2100, but doesn’t come with astra option and I’m not sure really if I’d benefit with the up/dn over just the dn flush spiral bit. So... thoughts, or do I call them?
You are correct sir. Bought some of that double-sided tape through your link. It is the Bugatti!
I got mine at Woodcrafters 28 bucks a roll. Should have gotten it on Amazon, despite how much I like to use local stores.
Jonathan you so often seem to cover exactly what I need to know, and you have done it again today. However, what about when the work piece is wider (thicker) than the depth of the router bit, and you have no option but to start with the lower bearing, and then flip the work piece and use machined surface as the template with a top bearing bit, or your two bearing flush trim bit with the lower bearing removed? I'm trying to see it in my head, and thinking we should be able to treat each case according the grain direction where the bit is cutting, but I am not sure I have it right, and can't even experiment till I get to the shop tomorrow. BTW to add to the problem, I am just using straight (non spiral) bits, but I can see that I am going to need to invest real soon.
drill if possible 2 small holes using a drill press through the piece. screw template on from side 1 switch to side2. plug or fill the two holes
I didn’t know inside curves could tear out as well. I’ve now seen too many videos on what can go wrong when routing. I’m currently completely scared off trying to template route anything. Especially my one slab of electric guitar body size wood. I think I’ll just rasp it into shape. Some day in the far off future.
Thanks for an awesome explanation on how to router properly, Now for that Tape, it's more like a Volkswagen! It will not stick to the wood and it's so time consuming trying to peel it back enough to expose the sticky . $15 and I just had to throw it in the trash
Would a shaper be a good way to cut from a template? I’m looking at getting a shaper but wanted to know if it could be used for patterns.
Thank you for the video. I have also experienced kickback with a half inch bit while making Jay Bates nesting chairs in Alder. The grain direction was significant and you showing the technique of using a double bearing router bit was helpful. In a future video could you possibly cover router bit speeds? Would slower bit speed help with the kickback?
Slower speed will give a rougher cut, and your feed speed would need to be a lot lower. Higher risk of tearout. That's my advice as a time served cabinet maker.
I just suscribed so I may have missed it, but have you or will you share the plans for the chair? I would like to build a set of them. Thanks in advance.
Awesome info! Now I'm thinking I'm using a too small diameter bit, or too weak of a router (Love it anyways) rather than needing new cheap bits from ebay, or bank breakingly expensive new bits from the hardware store. I'll try what I was doing slightly differently later.
I found an exception of when to go with the bit. I wanted to know my emergency room co pay.
Routing maple still freaks me out!!
My issue is finding a way to route templates that are larger than my template.
For instance, if I have an intricate shape that I want 3 inches larger in slavery direction. I'm often having to make several varying sizes of an item, and I don't want to have 10 different templates for each item. You'd think "Just use a larger bottom bearing." But if it has fine detail designs, curves, etc, a larger bearing would have too much surface area, and unable to move along sharp, short angles.
This has been a perplexing issue for me. Any tips?