2006-2016 Impala/Limited (9th Gen) Blower Fan, Control Module, and HVAC Panel Replacement
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- At the time of recording, we were experiencing -20*F temperatures in the Twin Cities (the same "Polar Vortex" that crippled Texas) and my '12 Impala's blower fan was on the outs. I had replaced both the fan motor and control module a year and a half prior with inferior chineseum parts from Amazon. No more, I say!! I set off to replace both items, along with the HVAC control panel with Genuine GM replacement parts.
As I mentioned at the start, "I'm an idiot!" I didn't realize until I installed the new control panel that said panel needs to be programmed after installing it so as to restore the vehicle's temperature readout in the driver info center (and also in my case, the MyLink radio.) So think twice before purchasing the control panel!!
I have since reverted back to the original control panel and everything is working swimmingly. I chose to hang onto the replacement, as I do plan on installing it back into the car sometime after I purchase a chinese MDI module and properly program it to the vehicle.
All parts were purchased from RockAuto (I am not able to link directly to the parts in their catalog.)
Blower Motor Part No.1581726
Control Module (used to be known as the "resistor") Part No.1581727
HVAC Panel Part No.1574146
Gearless Ratchet:
www.northernto...
Finger Ratchet:
www.northernto...
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#Impala #NoFan #FreezingMyNutsOff
Why would gm use a rivet on one of the resister????
Beats me! GM does a lot of questionable things, TBH 🤣
Over the years I've replaced all three actuators on my father in law's 09 impala. This time I thought the one under the driver's side was bad, but I don't think it is. It keeps clicking then stops and it seems to work ok kind of. If I move the temp. it might start clicking before it adjust to the new setting. I'm thinking it might be the control module not sensing the motor struggling at the stop. A guy told me the system senses the stop by high current on the actuator motor. I'm not sure where it senses it though. In the hvac control module or a computer or intergrated circuit somewhere else. I might just be a shunt resistor. What did you replace the fan and the hvac control module this time? I might have missed it if you said it. I'm bad about thinking about something while youtube it running. Well, that's where I"m at right now. Thinking about buying a cheap hvac controller on ebay. $45. vrs. $250 at autozone.
oh snap, I read your discription. I'm better at reading that listening. I heard you can reprogram by unhooking the battery and turning the ignition switch to run for 5 minutes to drain the memory voltage on computer. Then turn off, hook up battery and do nothing for 5 minutes. I think if you open the door or hit the locks, it goes through a routine of opening and closing actuators.
I would bet the farm that the actuator is bad. I wouldn't waste your money on a control panel. Look at the actuators as being an every-other year maintenance expense - they ARE going to go bad, and you WILL have to change them out again. And don't be fooled by a more expensive brand - they're all crap, and they all fail every couple years.
Nice little tutorial! I hope I won't have to do this or at least anytime soon, but at least I know it's not the worst repair in the world to do. As for the seats, both my plastic trim pieces were broke already when I bought the car, must be one of those things that are commonly broke on these cars. Oh, and did you know you can disable that flashing STOP on your backup cam? I can't remember how I did it but I think I went into the main settings and there were a few cam options in it. At least it would get rid of that annoying flashing.
I believe the camera I have has a tiny loop of wire that you cut, but it not only removes the flashing STOP, it removes the grid lines as well. The MyLink radio has grid lines you can enable/disable from the menu, but I left those off 'cause they're too high up on the image.
I'm going to try epoxying that plastic trim back to the seat, but I will likely have to remove the seat from the car to get to the remaining screws!! Ah well, gives me a reason to deep clean my carpet (and it sure needs it!!)
Awesome dude
Thanks 😁
Doesn't look like too difficult of a job if this comes up on mine
It's certainly easier than 2 out of the 3 blend door actuators!!
@@CertifiedShadetree yeah I got the driver side actuator I need to replace trying to con my son into doing it
Not a bad idea! That one was the absolute dirt worst to replace, so I say the smaller the person's arms doing the work the better!!
I have malibu 2012 i cant find heater blower fan in my city can i replace it with anather heater blower car?
I would stick with another GM model if possible, but you should be able to adapt one to work.
I have a question I hope you could help out, I have a 2013 Chevy Impala LT 3.6 engine, I have a problem with it losing power and stuttering going uphill while in cruise control. I have replaced the catalytic converters, spark plugs, and some other things and it's gotten better but it still happens, my next thing is to change the trans fluid because it's a light brown don't think it's been done by the previous owner, I was just wondering if you had any thought about what it could be.
Is the Check Engine light on, or have you had it scanned for codes? I have had issues in the past with the injectors on my 12 Impala (code P0276.) I would suspect if it were a serious issue, a code would be logged. These engines are also notorious for sludging up internally and carbon building up on the backs of the intake valves.
CZcamsr "WatchJRGo" did a series on a 2011 Camaro with a sludged-up 3.6 LLT in which he had a service performed called "BG Products Dynamic Engine Cleaner." What they do is run chemicals through the fuel system, induction system, and engine oil to clean out the sludge inside the engine, the fuel injectors, and the carboned-up intake valves:
czcams.com/video/8r1xOaQG7-g/video.html
czcams.com/video/zwYPVRNUsD4/video.html
czcams.com/video/5fG-LCADsVQ/video.html
czcams.com/video/3y3ykN6_OrU/video.html
Might be worth a shot to have the BG service performed if you can find a shop in your area that can do it.
And it's never a bad idea to change out the transmission fluid!!
@@CertifiedShadetree there has been engine lights on in the past, got it scanned and it said the transmission pressure sensor, had that replaced, it'll flash for about 10 seconds if the stuttering is bad but then turns off. We've had the valves and injectors cleaned, had several general maintenance services. I'll check out the videos, I was hoping to change the transmission filter too but I learned from your channel it's improbable to do it at home since there's no access other than to disassemble the transmission.
@@KirbyKilla1000 You might be onto something with the transmission being the culprit. I had an old Tahoe that would stutter right around 45 MPH when it would shift into overdrive. I did the usual tune-up stuff and it continued to stutter until I had the transmission rebuilt for a different reason (it lost 3rd gear.) It never set any OBD codes either (but neither did I get the dreaded flashing check engine light.) After the rebuild it never had the stutter again. Never really speculated what was causing it, whether it was the torque converter or a solenoid, or whatever, just that it was a transmission issue.
So my thoughts are this, try a drain and fill of the transmission, drive around for a couple of days, then do another drain and fill. That should get the majority of the old fluid out. Maybe do another drain and fill this fall, and another one again next spring. Hopefully this gives you a bit of clarity with what's wrong with it!
@@CertifiedShadetree I'll have to try that, hopefully it solves my issues, don't feel like sending off the transmission to get rebuilt after putting thousands of dollars into this car already. To add insult to injury it only has 120k miles on it.
Oh wow, that's pretty low mileage to be having problems like that! Good luck, hopefully you can get it sorted out!!
Try the relay fuse ur old one can be blown
Is the fuse location Batt 4? I for the life of me can't figure out where the blower fuse is. Nothing is labeled heater or blower....
Pretty sure I show it in the video..
@@CertifiedShadetree shows roughly where it's at in the vid..... just wondering if you remember what it's labeled as on the fuse guide on the cover...
@@joshblack1406 Roughly?!? 🤣Goddamn, ya made me go back and watch it!! Your suspicions are confirmed at 3:27. Had me thinking I left out an important step!! 🤣
@@CertifiedShadetree thanks. My service was just so crappy it kept buffering. Great vid. Ended up being a burnt wire in the resistor/blower wire harness
Ah, okay. Glad you got 'er figured out!