CHOOSING THE BEST RESIN FOR YOUR FIBERGLASS REPAIR PROJECTS
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- čas přidán 1. 06. 2024
- This is one of those decisions that can make the difference between the finishing steps of the project going smoothly or having to cobble together a path forward and keeping fingers crossed that it holds up ;-)
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If you're interested in a more in depth break down of working with these materials, here's a link to the download guide that I mentioned. Please note that the download key may end up in your spam folder so if there's any issues take a peek there. If something didn't work please let me know and I'll email it to you!
www.boatworkstoday.com/product/fiberglass-101-download-guide-choosing-the-right-resin-for-your-project/
In Australia, we can't get the same materials yanks can get. Look into it please Andy, everyone I speak to knows your channel. I spoke to the guys at trojan fibreglass when I researching products, they said that the paint systems just are not available.
In the past I was resurfacing fibreglass slides for councils and schools. We have a local manufacturer who made 2 part epoxy paint, very good product. But it was not marine. Maybe it would of worked fine, but the supplier didn't recommend it. Just letting you know there could be a market here
Hello. Do you have a place where I can ask you for a little advice? I have a cracked strake that I cut out and now have a 5x14 in cut out I need to patch on my hull. I just have a few questions Thank you for your time.
Andy, really miss your old stuff from 10-12 yrs ago.
Thank you, Andy, for all 10+ years of your blog. This is a true diamond on youtube for everyone getting involved into composites.
I have a question for you, if you mind to answer: I have a plan building a huge arches on my boat to install a hard-top, covered with solar panels and also back arch gonna play a davits role too. And the question is - how do you think is better to attach the arches to the boat: put them deep through the deck and fiberglass to the hull, or bolted joints to the deck will be strong enough? How would you build that on your own boat?
Boat: Bavaria 39
Deck: Sandwich (AFAIK)
Hull: Sandwich (AFAIK)
I love me a good chemistry geeking-out video. Understanding the material and the material properties is the best way to avoid using the wrong tool for the wrong application.
Just recently went with a Sherwin Williams marine product specifically because it was a phenalkamine epoxy barrier coat… very blush resistant in humid environments, and tolerates curing down to 20F and my nighttime temps were typically getting into the 40s.
Chemistry knowledge is power, and saved ass pain from having to strip down good work and sweat equity that used the wrong product.
Great video. You’re welcome to help me recore my deck anytime!!
Good info Andy. Keep the good stuff coming.
Great info! Straight forward, easy to follow.
Great video! Going to be fixing a few gauges in my Bass boat. Really helpfull. Thanks for sharing!
Nice to see you again doing your stuff fully recovered!! Happy regards from Argentina!!
You were a great helkp last year when i redid my boat floor. I learned a lot from you.
Truly Love Your Videos !!!!
What an informative video, Andy! Nice one!
Good info. There’s also different kinds of polyesters and vinyl esters with different gel times (20 mins - 2 hours at 77 degrees). Also different mekp with different kick off times.
Another great vid, recommend people slow it down and watch it two, three times.
There are many stitch and glue designs where the naval architect calls for epoxy resin and you still want that gelcoat finish. There will be a bunch of these guys pulling there hair out about now haha.
You should link your video of the gelcoat over epoxy tests, which showed us it is fine for poly over epoxy with the correct preparation. It might quell some of those comments
Epoxy for bonding dissimilar materials, ester for laminating.
If you cant do the whole job in one hit with epoxy, dont worry about it.
Also epoxy turns yellow and breaks down from uv exposure and needs to be painted or clear coated with a gelcoat or 2pack spray.
Great Video brother
Attacking a new to me process doing a balsa core in a race boat. My plan was gonna be epoxy over a honeycomb lightweight core. But I have lots of friends in the unlimited hydroplane racing world. And 2 of them who I greatly respect stopped and schooled me. I will be using balsa and vinylester. I have never used vinylester. I will be revisiting some of your older videos to refresh my memory. In my case I need to match the outer skin of my hull to a certain level on the inner skin over the core. Oh and vacuum bagging coming too. You might say I am over my head! But I am also chasing triple digits and wanna be as safe as possible. Hope you are feeling good with your shoulder.
Thanks Andy 😁👍
Glad you"re back! Always intresting and well produced.
Any Bertram progress?
still very much healing, this kind of surgery is an 8-12 month recovery before I can really start giving it again :-/ Have almost full range of motion but zero strength
Always helpful when I’m thing of doing a job , dam shore your in my head🙀
When I using polyester at summer I have it standing on a cooling plate (for food). Then I have some extra time before it starts to cure.
At the 12:00 minute if i understood you correctly. Material had been introduced like a transom cut out with an epoxy bedding. Leaving a narrow joint as mentioned. I'm not an engineer of composites, but with minimal welding experience i believe it may introduce possible integrity issues. Weird stuff goes on between apples and oranges. I agree with you Andy, but weird things goes on when stresses move around.
In the UK we have 3 different catalysts for polyester as well. Slow or summer through to winter of fast.
Thank you!
Can you gel coat over interlux 2000e barrier coat??? Thanks Andy for all the info. I’m a backyard boat rebuilding person on my first boat. I wish I could get on your pateron
Hi Andy, great video!! I have a question, if I may. I have a Class C RV, and I'm removing the upper window of the cabover area, and reskinning to solid. Using polywall as the skin to cover the window, and fiberglass over it. Here's where I'm getting stuck.
I'm not building cabinets, or patching the hull of my Beneteau 50. I'm just covering a hole on my 1987 RV. I wanted to use polyester, but people are saying it's not truly waterproof. Others are saying use vinylester, because it is waterproof. If I use polyester finishing resin for the complete wet work, I'm only skinning with three layers of 1.5" Matt fiberglass, I'll get a hard waterproof surface. Can I use finishing resin for entire project? If I use polyester laminating, will it leak? Some are saying during the curing process, polyester releases gases, and that creates tiny bubble holes, where moisture gets in. Can't I just prime and paint over that?
So many questions. I just am looking for an economical resin, that I can use on my Front top area of my RV, that won't turn into a sponge, and rot away, five years down the road. Economically, I'd like to use Poly, but I want a hard cure within 12-24 hours. Total wet work time, of layers, will probably be two hours. I'm going to apply multiple layers, stopping at three, and then I want to walk away, come back in a day, do a slight sand, apply primer and paint. Ultimately, I'm going to put a vinyl decal over it all, so I'm not looking for beauty, just water resistant....waterproof would be ideal.
I know this is a bunch, but mainly looking for if I can use finishing resin for entire project, because I'm looking for a hard surface after 12 hours, if I use laminating poly, can I just paint, or should I step up, and use vinylester, for complete job, and not have to worry about waterproof, because everyone says vinylester is waterproof after cure.
If you answer, thank you in advance.
Andy great vid however more info would be great comparing vinyl vs poly in the long run, not so much working with them, you covered that.
Ive been lead to believe ester dries much stronger than poly, and bonds better as well. Your thoughts? Oh cost comparison would be cool as well.
Hey Andy. I did my wet work with polyester resin. But i purchased epoxy primer& barrier coat. And epoxy fairing compound. Doesn't sound like a gel coat is compatible with the epoxy
Will polyester resin work for installing stringers? Does it hold as well as epoxy resin? Or should I use epoxy and then sand the filets before laminating with polyester?
Adtech is another option as an in between for epoxy and gelcoats
I am about to do transom and stringers. I got a 5 gallon of poly resin but it says perfect for marine and auto (above waterline). The guy I got my resin from runs a repair shop and says he uses it but I am hesitant. Is this okay or should I look for a different resin? The one I got is ClearCote General Purpose low profile laminating resin. Product code is 124445
Love the videos! They've helped a lot! Thank you!
I am a bit confused. I have a hole from a speaker in my cockpit forward bulkhead I would like to close. I don’t know if my boat was built using epoxy or polyester. What should I use in this case?
I assume most boats have gelcoat finish, so are most boats built using polyester?
I'm making a small model boat about 3ft long, and want to cover it in surface tissue with resin on the inside where the hull meets the shell...I already bought epoxy resin and RTU, but still not sure it is the correct choice. I will be doing one side first and then when it is dry, it will be ground back on the edges until it is just big enough and I can put the sides on, then when ll is done the outside will also get tissue and resin. Only want to paint the bottom facing bits where it might wear against surfaces... and varnish over resin the rest. SO I need to be able to not do it all in one go.
Can I use polyaspartic or polyurea epoxy?
Specific question! have you ever ever had a problem when you put polyester based something over the epoxy that was well cured (like a week or so) and had any potential amine blush removed before applying poly ?
Thank you Randy, a big fan of yours from Croatia (EU) 🤩
I use epoxy for everything I've had very good luck using it
Can’t really even use poly here in southeast Alaska we only get maybe 20 days all summer above 65 so I have had to do all epoxy
Has anyone found a CSM (chopped strand mat) that is more compatible with epoxy? The binders in normal CSM are made to be soluble in poly. Its kinda "stiff" using epoxy.
@boatworkstoday
So can we assume that any production boat covered in gelcoat, has a vinylester fibreglass base?
Great video. Thanks!!
Production boats bet on original construction being either poly or vinyl unless it's a 7 figure boat then it's likely epoxy :-)
@@boatworkstoday why is a 7 figure boat most likely to be epoxy? Expensive?
epoxy is quite a bit more expensive and at that level they're also using more technical materials like carbon and balancing the strength to weight ratio's more closely (more entailed build overall).
HaHa..you just described my casting deck project! 95 degrees in a metal shed! Weeee!
hey brother what's up with the Butrum?
still very much healing, this kind of surgery is an 8-12 month recovery before I can really start giving it again :-/ Have almost full range of motion but zero strength. Bertram patiently waiting :-)
@@boatworkstoday I copy about healing and we need you back at 100%. keep the education coming
Thank You Andy! You know I'm waiting to Cut the floor out of my boat , Probably this summer( Gates of hell weather lol). yes south Florida gets Hot!
I once heard on poo tube to keep your resin in the fridge, for longer pot life. just leave your beer out to see what happens 😅🥵😥.
I have a similar project and similar weather.
Andy, do you know you a leaning right, right shoulder low? By-product of surgery no doubt.
Tropical hardener???
www.totalboat.com/products/tropical-extra-slow-epoxy-kits
I am confused. In your old video, you tested the gel coat over epoxy and concluded that it was totally fine. What has changed? czcams.com/video/GwS4YgoGFm8/video.html&ab_channel=BoatworksToday
I don't try to be rude. As a new boater, I want to tackle a small project of closing holes from old instruments in the sailboat cockpit. As that referenced video showed up recently in my suggestions, I thought of using epoxy as It is a small patch. My considerations were: I already have epoxy, the same as in your old video; polyester has a short shelf time. I will have to throw away the can after the project as I will use only a small part for the project, and I hate throwing away stuff, especially when it contains harmful chemicals.
West system is the best system
You mentioned here that gel coat isn't compatible with epoxy layup here, but don't really explain why. I've seen on your channel testing showing gel coat will stick to an epoxy layup just fine -> czcams.com/video/kHAbyglpp3M/video.html Just curious, what's behind the change of opinion?
Love your videos, but I have one question: A decade ago you, yourself, pretty much proved that gelcoat over epoxy works, and it works as well as gelcoat over polyester, yet you have in several videos repeated the common notion that gelcoat doesn't work well over epoxy. I understand gekcoat can be made to chemically bond to polyester wheres it needs to bond mechanically with epoxy, which, of course, makes a difference in how you apply it. For example, on polyester you just apply the gelcoat onto the last layer of laminating polyester (without wax), whereas on epoxy, you must remove the amine blush and probably also sand the surface for good mechanical bonding. But why not make this clear instead of contradicting your own research. I am simply asking since I wonder if you have changed your mind since that video about gelcoat over epoxi, and if so, why? Oh, BTW, here's a link to the video I am referring to: czcams.com/video/kHAbyglpp3M/video.html
The main factor is that not all epoxies are created equal (there's different ingredients and ratio's of components which give different brands their unique properties which can greatly effect the ability for other non-epoxy based materials to cure and / or bond). Even with the most "compatible" epoxies there's quite a process to try and stack the odds in your favor which typically isn't practical in most situations. Minimum 2 week post cure above 75F, thorough cleaning multiple times, thorough sanding, cleaning again then you can try applying the gelcoat. Are there situations where it can be successfully done? Yes but only with the right combination of materials. Throwing out a blanket statement that gel overtop epoxy isn't a problem sets me and anyone trying it up for probable failure so IMO it's much a safer bet to play it safe and not push boundaries :-)
@@boatworkstoday This is close to what I expected. When you tested it 9 years ago it was with a specific brand, a brand that also makes claims about it being compatible with gelcoat, so I guess I understand your thinking, better safe than sorry. Thanks for answering.
Few years ago i send some sports on the bottom of my boat(Epoxy )and applied gelcoat without any barrier thing and the gel coat is still there.I don’t know what to think
Epoxy fanboys 😂 (Yeah, I'm one)! 😁