Great video for those learning how to do it yourself! I can confirm having crowfeet wrenches are a must when dealing with jamnuts. No one else ever tells you that, great job pointing that out! I need to move my front lower control arms out one turn to length my caster a degree. But first need to losses the nut as pipe wrench just didn’t cut it. That small adjustment made a huge difference in drivability. Shop that did alignment put it to factory specs, but once lifted you need more caster so learn how to do these minor adjustments yourself if you have adjustable arms.
Just wanted to pop in and say thanks for the quality of the parts you recommend. I had the core 4x4 arms and my last jeep they were dang near bulletproof
Dude, you have lost some weight. What's the secret? Always nice to see install videos that break it down for the newbies like myself. I've been looking at a 2" suspension lift for my '23 JLU, but I'm gonna wait til tax return so I can get the lift, new wheels, and 35's all at once. I think I am set on the Nitto Recon Grappler tires when I do, and some KMC Rockstar III wheels if I can find them for a good price, but still shopping lift kits.
Return of the Core Doors! I was wondering what happened to those. It's actually been a while since I've seen some good 'ol fashioned steel control arms in this day and age of aluminum links
The 2.5 lift probably doesn't change that much but if you go to 3.5 or higher there is a lot more to this. Most lift kits are sold for a fully loaded Jeep. Steel bumpers, winch, skid plates and full of people. My 3.5 kit actually came out to almost 4.5 inches empty. This causes a lot of issues with the drive line geometry which must be addressed or it will never run right. In the front you will need a track bar correction bracket which lift's the axle end of the track bar a few inches. You need a drag link flip kit. The track bar and drag link have to run parallel if not every time you hit a dip you will get bump steer. The stock D30/44 is only setup for 6 degrees, once you go that high even with adjustable control arms your either gonna get a good castor and bad pinion angle or good pinion angle bad castor which anything less than 5 degrees just begs death wobble after hitting a pot hole. Geometry correction brackets will help with this until you get a D44 that's built for a lift in which most come with 10 degrees separation so you can still get your castor and pinion angle set right. Then there is the rear. You need track bar riser and correction brackets there as well but that still wont address getting the pinion angle set. Because if you set it right, the stock spring perches will bow your springs. for that you need something like the MetalCloak JK Rear Coil Spring Alignment/Retainer Kit which is basically a spring wedge that goes between the axle perch and the spring and will offset the spring back towards more factory with the 10 degree wedge. I originally bought a AEV dualsport RS SC 3.5 lift kit for my 2D JK and it ran OKish. but since them I have replaced almost every part of the driveline and steering front and rear with proper heavy duty components, and now it runs perfect. So if you think your gonna throw a cheap RC 4 inch lift kit on your stock Jeep and be ready to go. Your not. It will run for a while and then things will start breaking.
All true. I bought a 2.5 rc lift for my wife’s jku and am slowly swapping it all to better quality. I don’t mind the springs really but the shocks are crap ! Got rid of my jk and got a jt and went with a 2.5 inch lift and 37s and I can’t believe how much better it drives than the jks. I realize wheel base is a factor but I think the new platform just rides better lifted anyways. A lot of people with lifted jls I know say the same.
@@Adrian-rn1ym Sorry I wasn't raggin so much on RC as I was on kits in general that do not include what you really need and even with my 2500.00 AEV kit, other thing's didn't last 15K before they started breaking. The 5160's shocks that came with the AEV kit all started leaking about 20K, my track bar upper bushing went at 13k miles. 2 weeks after that one of my tie rod ends blew, the stock Rzeppa joints all went about 25K etc... and even with the more expensive AEV kit I still got intermittent DW when all the conditions were right because I needed adjustable control arms. Stock brakes are almost crap with 35's. As well as the stock dana30 with 3.21 gears on 35's. I was a newbie too back in 2015 when I put the AEV 3.5 lift on a bone stock 2013 2D JK. By 2017 when I got my Jeep paid off I bought a Dodge Ram sport 4x4 just to have something more reliable to drive then went to work on the Jeep. both the Steersmarts 1.5 ton tie rod, draglink and track bar and Core4x4 medium control arms (all 8) I highly recommend. Those right there made it feel like a whole new Jeep. TF Falcon 3.3 sp2 shocks (expensive!), 35x12.50 BFG Ko2 on Fuel rims. (best tires ever made) I have 44K on the current set and they still have half tread left. Teraflex high angle drive shafts (I am still out on these. The TF rzeppa is better than the stock mopar. The axle size is a 1/3 the diameter if and when they break I will go with Tom woods or Adams. Dynatrac Big Brake kit. (made a huge diff on stopping power. keep the mopar pads, the DT pads shed dust everywhere. Saw no diff between the two driving) PSC Big bore steering box and cooler (can now drive with my little finger, this box makes it feel like steering does not exists), Mishimoto V2 Performance Aluminum Radiator with silicone hoses (live in Texas, Jeep does not even know what heat is any longer) I hear their stock replacement radiator is crap. but this 700.00 one is heavy duty tig welded and 160% increase in volume. dropped right into stock location with a little fight but did fit. and finally, The Fusion Elite D44 front axle with 4.10's and lockers. I live in the city and have to drive to the sticks. The 4.10 works for me on the 2 door. Maybe a 4D needs lower gear ratio with the heavier weight. But I think the 4.10 is perfect for hwy and offroad. AND SO .... after all of that, my Jeep runs like a top and has been 100 percent reliable for 30K+ miles now and actually prefer to drive it over my truck. All of this was trial and error over several years but if you really want a reliable ~4+ inch lift Jeep. In my opinion. This is everything you need.
Hey man. Love your videos. My TJ recently rotted out on me and fell apart on the highway so I was in a rush to get a new jeep. I have only had YG and TGs but decided to get a JK. Because I was in a rush I didn’t get exactly what I wanted and in trying to turn what I have into exactly what I want. The biggest thing for me right now is height. Want it to be a little taller and not sure what the best way to do that is. Right now I believe it has a 2inch suspension lift on 33s. Wondering if you have any tips. Thanks!
I’m putting one on now. Can you explain the front uppers CA bolt and washers. Specifically the locations for the washers? Inside or outside? Outside there’s little thread available for the nut. Appreciate any help. Keep up the great videos.
The front upper bolts and nuts are for the frame side. Depending on the year, the passenger side factory bolt might be too long to remove (exhaust in the way). That bolt is a replacement to go back in easy (in case you cut the factory bolt to remove it, or can pry exhaust. As for the washers, I can’t really remember and would have to see it, sorry I can’t help there.
@ JK Gear and Gadgets do you have previous experience with the Bilstein 5100? If so what are your thoughts on them? I’m in need of new shocks and am considering those.
I originally bought the AEV dualsport SC RS 3.5" kit for my jeep and after 25K 3 of my Bilstein's 5160's were leaking around the seals and they are not rebuildable. Bilstein has a pretty good reputation but since it had been a couple of years they basically told me to go pound dirt. They are expensive but I replaced them with the TF Falcon 3.3 which have on the fly adjustment knobs from firm to medium to soft and medium actually has 8 micro adjustments. It took me a while but I finally got my dialed in for my DD ride and I am very happy with them. Off road you just turn them to soft. Just my opinion. Others may have had better luck.
Yes, but with a JL/JT you can run closer to 6 since the front axle disconnect stops the driveshaft from giving you highway vibrations since its not spinning like a JK unless you are in 4wd.
Had to stop watching when said, "my stock track bar was 32.5", wimpy, so I set the Clayton track bar a little longer at 32.75", a HALF inch longer".... Cannot trust your skills if you don't know the difference in increments of 32.5" vs. 32.75".
Feel free to film yourself doing a project and see how many slip ups happen. Or feel free to watch the current Ultra4 build if you’d like to comment on my skills I guess
@@JKGearandGadgets I’m not bashing you as a person, and I’m sure you proofed that video, but measurements are crucial. I’ve built my Jeep from bone stock, I don’t care to video it. I have respect for those that do, but at least make sure it’s accurate.
Thank you , i have watched alot of install videos and you are the first person to explain what centering the axel is all about ::)
I love Clayton’s rear track bar bracket beefy design. I’ve had mine for 5 years now.
Great video for those learning how to do it yourself! I can confirm having crowfeet wrenches are a must when dealing with jamnuts. No one else ever tells you that, great job pointing that out! I need to move my front lower control arms out one turn to length my caster a degree. But first need to losses the nut as pipe wrench just didn’t cut it. That small adjustment made a huge difference in drivability. Shop that did alignment put it to factory specs, but once lifted you need more caster so learn how to do these minor adjustments yourself if you have adjustable arms.
Just wanted to pop in and say thanks for the quality of the parts you recommend. I had the core 4x4 arms and my last jeep they were dang near bulletproof
Love my Clayton Overland 2.5 JT lift. They make a quality product! 👍🏻❤️🇺🇸
The best in explaining I ever heard. Thanks for everything. I’m going to get my lift and Clayton control arms asap!
Nicely done. Well explained for pinion angle, caster, what exactly a lower control can/will do. I dig this content.
The lift looks great! Even with the 33s!
I found this video very helpful - thank you!
Great content as always 🔥
U know they make Jeeps in other colors right?
😂😂
Annnnddd ?
I never seen in other colors on jeeps other than red don’t know what you talking about
I just did a rock kawler kit on my jk a couple of weeks ago and it was definitely not as easy without a lift lol. Looks great!
🎉y5 Tu 5th to⅝ù yup
Nice video, well done
Nice work 👍
Awesome video. Thank you
Always enjoy your videos! 👍🤙👌
I loved how unconfidently confident you were in “pythagorean theorem”…… 😅😅😅 awesome video.
Forgot which one b was lol.
Dude, you have lost some weight. What's the secret?
Always nice to see install videos that break it down for the newbies like myself. I've been looking at a 2" suspension lift for my '23 JLU, but I'm gonna wait til tax return so I can get the lift, new wheels, and 35's all at once. I think I am set on the Nitto Recon Grappler tires when I do, and some KMC Rockstar III wheels if I can find them for a good price, but still shopping lift kits.
Those tiny wheels are killing me can’t wait to see what you upgrade to.
Huh, never thought about "return to centre" bushings. Interesting... 🙂 @15:30
Excellent video . Why the front shocks are with the rod up and the rear rod down?
Return of the Core Doors! I was wondering what happened to those.
It's actually been a while since I've seen some good 'ol fashioned steel control arms in this day and age of aluminum links
The 2.5 lift probably doesn't change that much but if you go to 3.5 or higher there is a lot more to this. Most lift kits are sold for a fully loaded Jeep. Steel bumpers, winch, skid plates and full of people. My 3.5 kit actually came out to almost 4.5 inches empty. This causes a lot of issues with the drive line geometry which must be addressed or it will never run right. In the front you will need a track bar correction bracket which lift's the axle end of the track bar a few inches. You need a drag link flip kit. The track bar and drag link have to run parallel if not every time you hit a dip you will get bump steer. The stock D30/44 is only setup for 6 degrees, once you go that high even with adjustable control arms your either gonna get a good castor and bad pinion angle or good pinion angle bad castor which anything less than 5 degrees just begs death wobble after hitting a pot hole. Geometry correction brackets will help with this until you get a D44 that's built for a lift in which most come with 10 degrees separation so you can still get your castor and pinion angle set right. Then there is the rear. You need track bar riser and correction brackets there as well but that still wont address getting the pinion angle set. Because if you set it right, the stock spring perches will bow your springs. for that you need something like the MetalCloak JK Rear Coil Spring Alignment/Retainer Kit which is basically a spring wedge that goes between the axle perch and the spring and will offset the spring back towards more factory with the 10 degree wedge.
I originally bought a AEV dualsport RS SC 3.5 lift kit for my 2D JK and it ran OKish. but since them I have replaced almost every part of the driveline and steering front and rear with proper heavy duty components, and now it runs perfect. So if you think your gonna throw a cheap RC 4 inch lift kit on your stock Jeep and be ready to go. Your not. It will run for a while and then things will start breaking.
All true. I bought a 2.5 rc lift for my wife’s jku and am slowly swapping it all to better quality. I don’t mind the springs really but the shocks are crap ! Got rid of my jk and got a jt and went with a 2.5 inch lift and 37s and I can’t believe how much better it drives than the jks. I realize wheel base is a factor but I think the new platform just rides better lifted anyways. A lot of people with lifted jls I know say the same.
@@Adrian-rn1ym Sorry I wasn't raggin so much on RC as I was on kits in general that do not include what you really need and even with my 2500.00 AEV kit, other thing's didn't last 15K before they started breaking. The 5160's shocks that came with the AEV kit all started leaking about 20K, my track bar upper bushing went at 13k miles. 2 weeks after that one of my tie rod ends blew, the stock Rzeppa joints all went about 25K etc... and even with the more expensive AEV kit I still got intermittent DW when all the conditions were right because I needed adjustable control arms. Stock brakes are almost crap with 35's. As well as the stock dana30 with 3.21 gears on 35's. I was a newbie too back in 2015 when I put the AEV 3.5 lift on a bone stock 2013 2D JK. By 2017 when I got my Jeep paid off I bought a Dodge Ram sport 4x4 just to have something more reliable to drive then went to work on the Jeep. both the Steersmarts 1.5 ton tie rod, draglink and track bar and Core4x4 medium control arms (all 8) I highly recommend. Those right there made it feel like a whole new Jeep. TF Falcon 3.3 sp2 shocks (expensive!), 35x12.50 BFG Ko2 on Fuel rims. (best tires ever made) I have 44K on the current set and they still have half tread left. Teraflex high angle drive shafts (I am still out on these. The TF rzeppa is better than the stock mopar. The axle size is a 1/3 the diameter if and when they break I will go with Tom woods or Adams. Dynatrac Big Brake kit. (made a huge diff on stopping power. keep the mopar pads, the DT pads shed dust everywhere. Saw no diff between the two driving) PSC Big bore steering box and cooler (can now drive with my little finger, this box makes it feel like steering does not exists), Mishimoto V2 Performance Aluminum Radiator with silicone hoses (live in Texas, Jeep does not even know what heat is any longer) I hear their stock replacement radiator is crap. but this 700.00 one is heavy duty tig welded and 160% increase in volume. dropped right into stock location with a little fight but did fit. and finally, The Fusion Elite D44 front axle with 4.10's and lockers. I live in the city and have to drive to the sticks. The 4.10 works for me on the 2 door. Maybe a 4D needs lower gear ratio with the heavier weight. But I think the 4.10 is perfect for hwy and offroad. AND SO .... after all of that, my Jeep runs like a top and has been 100 percent reliable for 30K+ miles now and actually prefer to drive it over my truck. All of this was trial and error over several years but if you really want a reliable ~4+ inch lift Jeep. In my opinion. This is everything you need.
@@jamescole6846 perfect thanks for the reply ! . I have the ko2 s in a 37 on my gladiator and love em
Hey man. Love your videos.
My TJ recently rotted out on me and fell apart on the highway so I was in a rush to get a new jeep. I have only had YG and TGs but decided to get a JK. Because I was in a rush I didn’t get exactly what I wanted and in trying to turn what I have into exactly what I want. The biggest thing for me right now is height. Want it to be a little taller and not sure what the best way to do that is. Right now I believe it has a 2inch suspension lift on 33s. Wondering if you have any tips. Thanks!
7:44 bro how are you moving the axle like that with 1 arm?? You are a beast 😆
I didn’t understand any of that 😂 … but great video son
Congrats on the weight loss
I’m putting one on now. Can you explain the front uppers CA bolt and washers. Specifically the locations for the washers? Inside or outside? Outside there’s little thread available for the nut. Appreciate any help.
Keep up the great videos.
The front upper bolts and nuts are for the frame side. Depending on the year, the passenger side factory bolt might be too long to remove (exhaust in the way). That bolt is a replacement to go back in easy (in case you cut the factory bolt to remove it, or can pry exhaust. As for the washers, I can’t really remember and would have to see it, sorry I can’t help there.
Did I miss the stud replacement? Good stuff all around bud!
These axles won’t be under the jeep for long! 4 studs will do the trick for now 🤙🏻
Yeah that stud replacement I was watching 4 was like a i t c h that I couldn't scratch
What is the brand name of the electronic gauge that you are using ?
What lift are you using in your shop? I'm not talking about the lift kit for the Jeep.
Off subject ... will you be in Daytona ??
Did you do a video on the KBD Flares?
Yea! A few videos back
From what I've come to understand caster is a bit of preference but where abouts should those numbers be?
Depends on lift height and driveshaft style, but around 4-5 on a stock axle jk
Will those Clayton joints work in place of Rock Jocks or will I have to change out control arms?
They should be the same thread pitch! 1-1/4"x12.
Did I miss the link the large crowfeet kit
amzn.to/3GEQyxb
Man i wish i would have had a lift!! 😭 i did a 4 inch suspension lift by myself with nothin but a floor jack 🤦
Lol I hear ya! This was my first lift installed on a lift, very nice.
@ JK Gear and Gadgets do you have previous experience with the Bilstein 5100? If so what are your thoughts on them? I’m in need of new shocks and am considering those.
I originally bought the AEV dualsport SC RS 3.5" kit for my jeep and after 25K 3 of my Bilstein's 5160's were leaking around the seals and they are not rebuildable. Bilstein has a pretty good reputation but since it had been a couple of years they basically told me to go pound dirt. They are expensive but I replaced them with the TF Falcon 3.3 which have on the fly adjustment knobs from firm to medium to soft and medium actually has 8 micro adjustments. It took me a while but I finally got my dialed in for my DD ride and I am very happy with them. Off road you just turn them to soft. Just my opinion. Others may have had better luck.
I had the 5100s on my JKU a long time ago before the 5160s and falcons.
I liked them for the price and for a DD they worked well for years!
@@JKGearandGadgets thanks I appreciate it. I think that will fit the bill.
How do I check to make sure I measured everything correctly?
You can always take it to an alignment shop, but try to find one who is knowledgeable in 4x4 and fully adjustable components.
Would 4 to 6 degrees of caster also work for the gladiators ?
Yes, but with a JL/JT you can run closer to 6 since the front axle disconnect stops the driveshaft from giving you highway vibrations since its not spinning like a JK unless you are in 4wd.
Out of curiosity, what doors are those? Looking to get half doors for my jku. Thanks
They are the Bestop core doors
That's what I thought. Thanks!!
👍
Is that the 2.5 lift or 3.5 I’m looking to get same lift for my jk.
It’s the 2.5”, but on a 2 door it comes out to be around 3-3.”5
@@JKGearandGadgets ok awesome. Thank you for all y’all do btw y’all are great.
@@ThatJKDude thank you! Oh btw Clayton does have a channel discount code, jkgg should work!
Now that this jeep is a race jeep u have to buy another 2 door and stretch it to back and front bumpers.
6:28 "blew those all the time"
Are the stock control arms and track bar adjustable too?
Where are you based in?
Okc
Awesome 👍
HOW MANY LIFT FOR 41 TIRES?!?
Probably at least less than 17”
Dude did you lose weight?
I forget the purpose of this build. Isn't this jeep supposed to be a run-about? I didn't think y'all were going to off-road this one.
Originally, but plans have changed haha. Will update soon
@@JKGearandGadgets It is a jeep after all ;-) always look forward to your videos .
Will you be doing a front locker on it? Have you done a video on front locker install?
wearing crocks lol
Had to stop watching when said, "my stock track bar was 32.5", wimpy, so I set the Clayton track bar a little longer at 32.75", a HALF inch longer".... Cannot trust your skills if you don't know the difference in increments of 32.5" vs. 32.75".
Feel free to film yourself doing a project and see how many slip ups happen.
Or feel free to watch the current Ultra4 build if you’d like to comment on my skills I guess
@@JKGearandGadgets I’m not bashing you as a person, and I’m sure you proofed that video, but measurements are crucial. I’ve built my Jeep from bone stock, I don’t care to video it. I have respect for those that do, but at least make sure it’s accurate.