Aluminum Boat Transom Replacement - Replace your small boat transom!
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- čas přidán 26. 06. 2024
- If you need to replace the wood transom in your small aluminum boat, this video covers every step and everything that I had to do to put a new transom in my little boat. If you have a Jon Boat, a small V hull boat, a Tinny or any other smaller aluminum boat, I hope I have covered information that could be useful if you tackle this DIY project yourself.
Jon boat transom repair and transom replacement can be a project you can do at home if you have some tools and take the time to avoid mistakes lake using the wrong material to make your new transom. If you are planning a small boat restoration project and are looking to put a new transom in your little boat, let me know if this video was helpful for you!
Interested in some of the items shown in this video?
- JB Weld Marine Epoxy: amzn.to/3MPvxAP
- Aluminum soldering/brazing rods: amzn.to/38lkH6S
- Acetone: amzn.to/3LLuLDN
- Project Clamps: amzn.to/3abKn6k
- Aluminum Transom Handles: amzn.to/3wSq3ih
- MAP Gas Torch: amzn.to/3MPq90y
- Brazier Round Head Rivets: amzn.to/3wKRnQm
- Air Hammers (can be used for installing rivets): amzn.to/3PFi2FP
As an Amazon Associate I earn a small commission from qualifying purchases.
00:00 Introduction
01:56 Removing the old transom wood from my boat
03:55 Removing the rivets from the transom support
07:40 Transom core material options
09:57 Making a new transom for a boat
12:53 Aluminum repairs on a small boat
15:31 Installing a new transom in a small boat
21:24 Replacing solid rivets in my boat
22:54 Total cost to replace the transom in my boat
23:41 Conclusion
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#transomreplacement #smallboattransom #boattransom
Sound effects and additional music is copyright free from iMovie - Zábava
I just got a 68 Richline 14ft, and after watching your video I feel confident for when that day comes. Thank You
15:30 as they say "a grinder and paint will make you the welder you ain't"😂
You are the most relatable boater ive found, i also have a 12ft aluminum boat, 15hp motor, and a trailer i bought seperately. Everything ive wondered, i found the answer on your channel. To me, its like a very nice coincidences. I also have a same crack on the transom, but on the center.
The plywood lasted 50 years. You made the right choice.
Cheap wood sounds like the way to go, I think I'll coat mine with fiberglass resin when I do it.
I'm 100% sure that this is the ONLY boat channel I need to watch for all of my learning , information and entertainment needs
Thanks again for another great video.
Mark from Harford county.
Best transom video anywhere on the internet, IMO.
Thanks!
Thanks for putting this video together. I like that you scaled down the size and cost of the repair to something practical for your use. Many times people don't take into account the total worth of the boat while they go and over spend and over build. The boat forums have people that spell doom and gloom if you dont use marine ply, coosa, seacast, etc. I also really like the trick to use jbweld to avoid galvanic corrosion. Overall, looks like a success! Also confirms that aluminum is the way to go if you want an older less expensive boat that is easier to fix up. Old fiberglass boats with transoms that need work are..... a whole other headache 😅
You are on the other side of the world and everytime you learn me something. Thnx.👍
Greetzzz the Dutchy
Your sound effects are hilarious!! Very good video. I just replaced my transom with plywood lots of marine goop sealant and painted steel plates. I used 1 1/2 inch x 1/16 aluminum angle overlapping with lots more marine goop. I wish I would have watched this first. I did seal the wood with 2 coats of marine mast varnish. I'm 68, I bet this will last the rest of my life. Thank you for sharing!! PS I did learn how to weld aluminum this summer with map gas. Practice practice practice.PSS... I learned about riveting this summer too. Learning is good! Again, thank you!!
Nice job Man!!! Thanks for the tips and cost break down. Keep the vids coming!!
Great video!!! Gives me the inspiration and instruction to replace on my 16 foot LUND tri-hull...THANK YOU, SIR👍👍👍
Transom replacement came out very well. Congrats Wayne.
Thanks!!
Great video! I also use stainless machine screws with a flat metal washer followed by a flat rubber washer in between the boat aluminum. I usually just put silicone under the rubber washer before I tighten it down. I use a flat metal washer and lock washer on the inside of the boat. Anytime I have a rivet go bad, I just replace it with this setup. Thanks again for the video. I'll be going with Coosa board.
Another great video! I hear the small butane torches actually work better at getting the aluminum hot. Worth a try and cheap
Excellent video sir in quality and content, thanks for sharing! Going to be tackling this project on my grandfathers 1968 14' jon that
I've fished out of since I was a kid.
Very cool!
Good video/discussion! I also used exterior ply after reading about treatments/construction of plywoods. I glued and screwed the sandwiched sheets together, then weight pressed on flat floor. Sealed exterior surfaces with several coats of clear polyurethane. My boat had a smaller thinner wood plate on the exterior which I replaced with a similar sealant treatment. I too opted for the SS hardware for all attachments and also used JB weld for sealant/anti corrosion. Should outlast me.
Nice job! A quality repair.
I planned on doing exactly the same thing to my 1972 Newman 👍
I replaced the wood transom on my year 2000 Alumicraft T-14V with King Starboard boards, sized to match the original wood pieces. Once and done.
really enjoyed the video and it definitely will help me on my boat
Great video. My aluminum boat is almost exactly the same design as yours. I'm using a treated 2 x 10 solid board (sealed with marine varnish) for my new transom. I've got to notch the top inboard edge to allow the transom to slide up under that 1" lip along the top of the boat.
Thanks for the reply.
Yea that's something lm going to have to do soon as well , great video showing how too . Ok summer is here I'm fishing 🎣 🐠🐟.....cheers 🍺
LOL - If it can wait til later - that's always an option!
Great job and solid tutorial!
Much appreciated!
Satisfaction guaranteed
Great Video-Thanks For Sharing-Tim in MI
Titebond exterior would have
Been a great choice. Never been a big fan of liquid nails
Line of products. Nice job and
Great attention to detail 😊..
I agree for a little more get the none plywood meathode . Great breakdown of costs
That Coosa board seems like a great option.
Nice work mate, you've done a great job there!
Thanks a lot!
That's too much work Nixon that marine-grade he should have clamped into the transom drilled it and use Marine 5200 I'm trying to get something done quick I would have ran with the plastic board I think it's called starboard
Awesome video very informative and you are awesome at explaining, love your videos keep it up
Thanks, will do!
Drill a small hole at the ends of those cracks to prevent the cracks from moving further. Then, apply some JB Weld. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy!!
RE drilling the wood. The method is known as drill fill drill.
Any water leaks at the bolts is in direct contact with untreated wood and right were stress is applied.
So the solution is to:
1 Mark the location
2 Drill out over sized holes
3 Fill with thickened epoxy or something
4 Drill the hole size you need.
Great video Thanks for sharing a lot of good information here you make it sound verry easy.
It's not too hard on a small boat like this
Thank you for taking us along on this build! I really appreciate your sharing the steps including your thought process, research, analysis, options, decision making, execution and the recap summary. I am guessing you must be an engineer? I like that you decided to complete the welds and the rivets despite the added challenges. I think the results speak volumes of success and self-satisfaction! Appreciate your videos! Please keep up the great work! Stay safe and I look forward to your next post!
Thank you! And no, I'm not an engineer.
Yeah, should have done Coosa. Thanks for the vid.
I picked up 1 inch thick cutting board used for butcher shop. Perfect. They should use that material in new boat construction
Wayne, you are *fearless* with this stuff. Nice vid! Next time you install a wooden component on a boat, use oil-based polyurethane varnish (Valspar, etc.), thinned about 10% (at least six coats with dry time between). It will soak in and protect the wood from within, rather than acting like a hard finish on top of the wood like paint does. The poly is far more robust and will last years longer than paint.
Thanks for the tip!
Do you sand between coats with this method?
I've used waterproof exterior plywood to rebuild my engine an seat wood backing. Applied Beir waterproofing sealer for extra protection that was 10 yeas ago and no issues or rot
While I haven't replaced a transom, I'm really impressed with the sealant properties of Rustoleum Rocksolid Polycuramine . You'd need just a bit for the transom, then get ready to spring into action to coat your garage floor.
NICE VIDEO THANKS FOR SHARING! I wonder if you cut brace in half then when you get ready to put it back is eather weld it or bolt it back together seem to be easier then taking out rivet just saying.
Sikaflex sealant, glue 2 sheets of far eastern plywood WBP together with urea formaldehyde glue for transom board.. About drilling through, put a bolt through a plug of sikaflex. Just squirt and push, messy but effective. Both sides of a rivet kit helps !
Nice job.
Thanks!
I definitely would have used teflon/delrin fender washers on the outside to isolate the SS and AL. The epoxy will squish away and you'll still get some metal-metal contact. If you do any aluminum boat and trailer work, I'd spring for a welder with an AL spool gun. I picked up one from northern tool a few years ago and it works really well.
But great job on an inexpensive fix regardless!
Ohh that's a great idea with the washers!
Excellent job, especially on that dogleg brace! I have a 14' 1972 Polar Kraft that was my dad's boat, he gave it to me twelve years ago when he got unable to fish anymore because of health reasons. I should have replaced the transom back then, but the entire thing is held in with rivets so it has scared me off from replacing it. It has dual dogleg braces side by side, and of course both ends are held in with rivets. However the top brace and corner braces aren't welded on but are held on with rivets so I should be able to remove that and slide the new transom in from the top. I really don't want to mess with the bottom rivets on the braces. Even though that boat is fifty years old, it doesn't leak. That boat is extremely solid, and the paint still looks great. It's the olive drab color with those white speckles all in the finish, I have no idea how it's done. Anyway, your video has given me the courage to finally replace the transom in my old boat.
Take your time and try to be patient around the rivets!
I have had very good results using Tight Bond Ultimate gluing two pieces of wood or ply together. Cut six 2x4s a little longer than the transom place them in the taller configuration opposing each other one on each side of the transom then clamp them on each end squeezing the center and both edges together of the transom together. If needed place two more short pieces at 90 degrees on top of the three 2x4s in the center using longer clamps to over come the depth of both sets of 2x4s clamping heavily in the center. In my configuration i have used 2x6s 2x4s and any number of other large pieces that might be laying around covering many more square footage and 10 to twelve clamps including 18" c clamps. Using a heavy glue becomes difficult as the glue does not compress as readily has you might expect. completely covering the surface of each piece to be glued together using a metal grooved tile set trowel for heavier glue or just lots of thin glue like Tight Bond. Working time can be a problem with larger transom pieces and glue set up time. Place a couple set nails in 2 to 3 places preventing the two sides of the transom from slipping while setting. i found watching the piece for 15-20minutes is advisable making sure your set nails are working. Glue run out will continue for some time after the clamps go on. recheck clamps .
A large history of marine grade ply has to do with factory fiberglass boats built in the 90s. It was used often for under deck stringers and some deck material and relied on heavily for its structural integrity because it is often made with many more fine layers of sub-strait material. Rain water in Florida will ruin any boat if left out in the open back yard as many do.
Wayne you did an outstanding job with this video, and i've seen a dozen with mixed reviews. I don't have your carpentry skills so I plan on going the Coosa board route. I did however want to ask what specific kinds of rivets you used as well as the method of fastening them. As you know rivets are like screws, there are many kinds and sizes. Thanks again for a great job.
I plan to do a rivet video in the future - but basically try to determine the size of the rivets you're replacing and match them up. The 'size' is the size of the hole where the rivet was - check that will drill bits to find which drill bit fits perfectly in the hole. Then match up the head shape and get the right length rivets (I had to guess this one), but you want enough sticking up to flatten without having too much sticking up.
I had a 14 ft tracker aluminum utility boat. I put a new piece of toilet partition. Solid plastic and indestructible. I laminated it fully to the inside of transom With lock tight pl 3000. Its 5 times stronger than original
Has there been any leaks where you bolted the brace to the hull bottom? Thank you.
Doing things yourself gives you a good sense of self worth.CHEERS from Here!!! P.S. The "Drill,Fill, and Drill metheod of drilling a bigger hole than you need then filling the hole with thickened epoxy, then drilling the right size hole for the fastener in the center of the filled first hole works well.
I like the idea of drill/fill/drill - that's a nice way to seal those wood holes even better!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Yes! Still necessary to use caulking on the bolts to keep water out of boat.
works 4 me!!!!
I would of cut the brace a made an adjustable sleeve good idea? idk.. but I know it would work and that’s what I would of done! Great video Wayne!
That certainly is a clever approach to this situation!
Couple things. The latex paint will not do well in constant moisture .
Aluminum slider woks well but you have to clean the aluminum with a stainless steel brush otherwise you are embedding carbon into the surface of the aluminum. When it come to welding or brazing Aluminum cleanliness is king. The other issue with brazing aluminum is, it’s a giant heat sink so it cools very fast. The bigger the piece the harder it is to get it to temp and keep it there.
Great job!. For the cost this is the way to go. Though I personally would spend the extra money if I could swing it for the Cosa board or even the aluminum transom since those will last for the life of the boat, (after all who wants to do this again in their lifetime). For a longer lasting wood transom I would suggest that one use marine grade fiber glass resin (Bondo) to seal the boards (it does a superior job of waterproofing the wood and isn't that much harder to apply than paint). Also I wouldn't only glue the two 1/2" pieces together but use stainless screws with marine grade sealant in the holes (you can also counter sink them just below the surface and fill it in with additional sealant. I also have worries about getting those bolts you used JB Weld on back out in the future if ever you have to replace that transom again down the road (you think those original aluminum bolts were a pain!). But hopefully this will be the next owner's headache ; ) as your transom should last for many years to come.
You bring up some interesting points and options. I wonder how much harder/easier 3M 5200 would be to remove in a decade compared to the JB Weld. It might be "too" good!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy the “ 4200” is a little less tough to remove. It’s for things you want sealed , but may need to remove in the future, not so “permanent” as the 5200.
When you drill holes through transom wood you can drill them larger than needed. Then fill with fiberglass resin paste. Then drill again the smaller hole size you need. Now you have a hole that is isolated from the wood.
If you fiberglass acx or bcx well it will last a very long time. There is another very easy way to replace a transom and about the price of coosa. It's a pourable epoxy of sorts, but you need a void to pour it into.
JB Weld cracks ? no ? i love that stuff
One of the most helpful tutorials I've seen on transom replacement. Thank you. Consider the amount of time it takes to research other people's learning curves. Money is a universal trading value of our time (unless you're a central banking institution, but that's elite corrupt economics). I digress... I also had similar cracks in my transom C-channel and used mapp gas to "weld" fluxless aluminum rods. It worked great, until a very small amount of pressure was applied and then the cracks split right through the solder. I also have other issues of corrosion and pinholes throughout my transom aluminum, leaving me with more work than I signed up for...
I would love to pick your brain on a bunch of things, but one thing that jumps out is why didn't you screw the two pieces of bcx together instead of using clamps? I mean the paint gallon cans and cabinet doors did look a bit sensational....😂
I was glad to see that you used stainless steel sheet metal screws and the same washers I chose and that you mentioned not allowing them to contact the aluminum. I hope this lasts a very long time for you.
Honestly I didn't think about screwing the 2 pieces together at the time because I don't do a lot of wood working. Looking back, it sure would have been a better idea!
For pinholes you can get by with JB Water weld. Has thus far held up for 4 seasons under water and still holding. I check it often as I am seeing how long it lasts.
That sucks that your back corner triangles don't unbolt and come out. Mine had 4 screws in each of the back triangles caps to keep them in or to remove them, along with the strip of metal that goes all the way across the top of transom board. On my boat I have 3 of those dog ear braces things coming up from the floor of boat to the transom board so I'm kinda glad they do come out so i can just lift up on the transom board to take it out. I've been slowly restoring a boat that I got a couple years ago. Its the first boat that I've owned so I've been having to watch different videos to see how to repair or replace stuff. I took it apart and kept the original transom board to make a new one but didn't know which material I was gonna use yet. I have a 1966 Mirrocraft 14ft vhull deep fisherman.
It's so interesting how differently many of these little boats are assembled. If you're gonna keep it forever, Coosa board would be my choice!
Nice repair! JB Weld is awesome stuff, but doesn't go with aluminum very well.
Epoxy hardens into a brittle plastic. Aluminum boats flex quite a bit. The epoxy cannot move with the aluminum and the bond breaks and or a crack develops over time. A longer lasting adhesive/sealant would be 3M 5200 or similar. When 5200 cures, it remains flexible and moves with the aluminum. It won't crack or debond.
I would replace the plywood with Trex decking. It's an inch thick and will last forever . It comes 6 inches and is tongue and groove so it will lock into the piece next to it. It comes in various colors from a light gray to browns ect for making it blend in with camo and b=never needs painting
The difference between marine ply and cheap n ouse plywood isn't glue between plywood, its voids in the plywood. Voids give vapor and place for water and mildness to start the re rot process. Plus you can get much better wood spices than house plywood.
Nice Job... The truth about marine ply vs other is more about the glue. In the past, some plywood was made with water soluble glue, thus it would fall apart faster when exposed to the elements, even if treated. Nowadays, all ply is made with waterproof glue, so the only real difference is grade of wood.
liquid nails aint no joke . i acualy built a shower using river slab rocks sandstone all shapes and sizes. i used finished nails to hang all the rocks up on the wall then one at a time liquid nailed them putting them back in the nails to hang and dry .when all was done i pulled all nails and the rocks wasnt going nowhere. they was stuck good and these are big heavy rocks. finished up bu mortering in between them all and till this day 20 years its like it was done yesterday. so i like useing it . if you dont plan on ever trying to take what you nailed down down . lol
It looked like you use 1/4 inch diameter bolts for everything, even the handles. Did you drill the holes a little bigger, of just drill them 1/4 inch?
I think I drilled a little larger so the bolts would go in easier and to make room to seal the bare wood in the bolt holes.
Thin resin to coat board and edges will prevent rot
Jb weld? Good luck getting those out again.
The J-B Weld will probably make it a bear if anyone has to do this job again . . . I guess heat will soften it enough to remove it.
Did you look into the liquid transom option? I've been considering going that route on my boat. The Idea of removing the entire rear deck to access and remove and install the full board seems daunting, when I can remove the board in pieces and pour the new transom in.
That wouldn't work with a small aluminum boat like this.
Love your channel. Not sure you should be using stainless bolts with aluminum!
I was looking for aluminum hardware, but couldn't find any locally. It seems that many people use stainless with aluminum these days, as long as there's "something" in between the two metals.
both marine and X grade plywoods use exterior glue, the difference in marine grade plywood and the BCX you used is there are no voids in the marine plywood laminations , there are in any other plywood.
I'm liking your method for replacing the transom in my 14ft jon boat. I'm not in a huge hurry to get it done, because I only have a 50lb thrust trolling motor right now and the transom is solid enough for that. Thanks for showing the options and process for those of us who will need them! I don't know if you heard, but Liquid Nails changed their formula about 8 years ago; my husband used to swear by it, but we both agree that it's pretty much crap now. Also, did you use any flux with the brazing rods? Just wondering for my own adventure!
The rods I purchased were supposed to be pre-fluxed but additional flux probably would have helped.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Thanks!
Simply cover both sides of transom wood with fiberglass cloth and resin and it will last a lifetime. Also. Anywhere a hole exists I would use 3M 5200 sealant. Great job by the way.
Flex seal
This is great and practical. My 14fter former owner took out dog leg brace. Who sells those and isnt that danderous for outboard motor?
The brace helps with keeping the transom from flexing especially with a heavier outboard. I don't know who might sell a dog leg brace as many boats don't have a standard configuration.
Why would you not use white oak? Its readily available and workable with most tools a handyman would own.
Hey Wayne- What size engine did you put on your 12' boat? Thanks
Most people like a 9.9 hp but I usually am running a 2.5 hp because that's what I have right now!
The hardest job your small tinnie will ever do is to ride down the hi-way on its trailer with the motor attached to the transom. If at all possible, mount the motor when you get to your destination. if you do this, the transom will never crack along the top. And, the transom will bnever develoop the buckling that is the sign of work stretched sheet metal. Aluminum work hardens as it vibrates, causing micro cracks that will become visible. The wood rot issue is real, but it's a very old boat that has it - usually. Replace it with marine grade plywood. It does NOT have to mahogany marine. It can be regular fir, but paint it with three coats of thinned epoxy resin, then prime and paint with your choice of paint. It doesn't have to be marine paint at $100 a quart. House paint that is semigloss is fine, as it is outdoor rated. Coat and paint all surfaces before installing.
How is this holding up? I need to replace the transom on my new to me 14' jon boat.
After 2 years it is still fine - the boat is now with a new owner though.
You should of used wood screws to hold the wood together what time glue dried.
Wha5 you do is either drill out the rivets or cut the brace in half 🌗 later insert a sleeve in side the brace and bolt it back. But best is drill out the rivets. Another instead of plywood again put Malard material it's l8ke plastic chopping board.
Would it be better to use plastic or nylon instead of wood for the transom?
I have wondered about this as well but I have no idea how well a plastic material would work.
Is coosa board UV stable? If not, it would need a coat of paint.
Good question.
He's way to check that boat if you're ribbons are gonna leak or anything's going to leap it's taking put your plug in Fill it up 2 or 3 answers and then you'll know
You would be surprised at the strength of wood glue and it actually penetrates the wood better than liquid nails. A properly laminated piece of wood with wood glue gives a glue Bond stronger than the wood itself. I also would have sanded the two surfaces and laminated those pieces with titebond 3 because it's waterproof once it is dry. Then as far as longevity goes I would have coated the entire new transom board in fiberglass resin or again titebond3 aka poor man's fiberglass resin. Would have made it stronger and waterproof so that it wouldn't fail. Also would have pre-drilled all of my holes before doing the resin so that the drill holes were also protected. Even regular Bondo polyester fiberglass resin works great I've actually used it to seal plywood for a plywood aquarium before. That aquarium is still running years later. By the way there's no difference between the blue and yellow bottle anymore except a mild amount of propylene additive. MAPP gas is now just marketing. It was discontinued ages ago but they kept the name for marketing the only difference is the tip which burns better so people think that the map gas is actually burning hotter when it's actually the same thing that's in the blue bottle, just propane with propylene additive and a more efficient tip, the burn temperatures are literally only about a hundred degrees different which for metal is negligible. At least for the BernzOmatic brand. Put your map gas tip on the bluebottle I guarantee you it'll do the same. It's just to charge you a higher price for the same fuel with the very minor difference of adding propylene to propane through marketing but it is not mapp gas. So essentially all you have to do is buy one bottle of MAPP gas and from then out just by Blue bottle refills and use the same tip. BernzOmatic still sells it as I said just as a marketing thing to charge you more. But it is NOT mapp gas. MAPP GAS WAS DISCONTINUED ALL THE WAY BACK IN 2008. There's only one viable substitute on the market and it's not sold by BernzOmatic. You just got conned.
How did the weld hold up?
So far so good - but I run very light weight motors
Where did you purchase those rivets?
I think I found them on Amazon
if you bought a hotter torch and fluxed the aluminum those rods would have done a good job
I'm foing that now. The dog leg is really not in my way. It comes out alittle my problem is the handles the wood is under neath!!!! .
Marine could be had for $ 50 and would be a great choice
I've heard that there's a stainless steel that is more closely comparable with the aluminum. I believe that it is called 316L stainless? Are you familiar?
I have heard of different grades of stainless - but I haven't heard of any boat manufacturers switching to stainless steel.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy I haven't either, I've only read comments about that type of stainless being compatible with aluminum.
That poor aluminum
The Stainless Steel bolts and washers will/may slowly corrode holes in your aluminum transom by electrolysis. And, good luck removing those JB Welded bolts next time you replace that transom.
I used the JB Weld to be the barrier between the stainless and aluminum to hopefully prevent the corrosion. I know the JB Weld might be a real pain to remove someday, but also feel that it won't fail prematurely - which would cause corrosion. I wasn't able to locate any aluminum bolts to replace the ones I removed which is why I used stainless.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy I understand what you did but seems like nylon washers would work better and there are products in caulking-tubes created for the specific purpose of protecting plywood with holes that don't"weld" parts together. Doesn't matter...your work will last successfully longer than either of us.
@@choimdachoim9491 Do you think the nylon washers would be considered water-tight when tightened against the outside of the aluminum transom.?
@@richerwin6397 Nylon is used in many plumbing applications, even systems with high pressure. There may be different types of nylon but I've seen it used in faucets, shut-off valves, connectors, etc. Some nylon is flexible and some is rigid.
@@choimdachoim9491 White nylon washers commonly found in hardware stores?
Cut it square and resend it
Mapp gas is only about 100 degrees hotter than propane, but much more expensive.
Yeah I wasn't too impressed with the results
Gotta weigh the cost of repair against the value of the boat!
Luckily my Grumman boat I am able to leave the dog leg riveted in place when replacing the wood in my transom
Nice!
I would have marked the position of the plate before removing it.
Which one? Everything had holes going through the metal panel, so I figured I could just realign.
Gotta get your Tee-shirt
Which one? I think I wore 5 in this video!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy Because I'm the Captain.
@@timothycreamer8610 there’s a link to buy one in the video description!
Anyone know why don't people just replace their transom with aluminum stock and a wood outer skin or something to make removal easy if it needs it again? Oh and rivets are a lot better than a welded hull.
Tiny Boat Nation offers an aluminum transom kit that will probably outlast many of the boats. It comes down to cost, tools and skills.
Need more heat to properly weld/braze that aluminum those "welds" will not last
I agree. But the new wood should prevent any flex and strain in those areas - unless I were to overpower the boat.