Oof..Bad advice. If you do something on one side, dude, always do the other side of the axle too. Or be cheap. If I replace the RP caliper, I'm replacing the RD caliper too... @@OneTrickTech
New rotors are about $100 each while resurface can be $20 each. I’ve had my rotors resurfaced by sketchy shops, I ended up buying new ones. I’ve also had rotors resurfaced by professionals and I was amazed at how good they looked. I want to say it’s not always the shops it’s the people working there.
My rearward brake only works when I pull the ebrake slightly and then use the front brakes everything feels nice. But just using the city brake the rear brake isn't engaging but disengages . When I use the ebrake it engages and and disengages slightly I can feel the front brakes and rear brakes working right when I slightly pull the ebrake then use the city brake to come to a stop . But if I use just the city brake it won't engage.
Hey there, I believe you might have a brake hose that's clogged up, the ones in the rear. If you're ebrake is integrated with the caliper, then you might have a faulty caliper. If you're ebrake is linked to rear drums, then check both rear calipers and brake hoses.
So I have the noise but it’s not slowly rotating. Tire spins and rotor spins fine. Just a bad noise. Had bearing, rotor, pad, and caliper replaced. Still making noise. Is it the bracket that may be unaligned?
All the last few sets of brakes pads I replaced on 2 different cars, different brands were really tight on the calipers because of the clips. Here this seems way to easy to remove the pads. What is your take on this? Thanks
@benhaze1010 They should move freely on the caliper bracket. They usually get really tight because of rust build up underneath the clips. Every brake job I do, I clean the caliper bracket with a wire brush and file. Then I add anti seize before putting the new clips to slow down the rust build up.
@@OneTrickTech Thanks for the response! Yes I do the same as well. It seems the last 2 brands I used make the anti-rattle clip very wide and stiff to avoid noise complaints but makes their installation more challenging or I am getting parts not meeting OEM specs :(
most likely you have an air pocket in the system. Something is pushing the piston back out, and its not the brake fluid. Could also be the caliper , the seal might be bad. Try bleeding that caliper first and see what happens.
@@OneTrickTech ok yeah I bled it and still the same. It is old. So I just replaced the caliper completely and hopefully it’s good. I had to go to work. So tomorrow I’ll check to see how it is.
@@OneTrickTech I am asking about how the mechanical movement of the piston works. When the oil is pressed, it pushes forward, and when the pressure is lifted from the brake pedal, the oil returns again. Whoever returns the piston ?
@@LOLO-vu9qi Ok I see, its called the square cut piston seal inside the caliper that returns the piston. It acts like a spring, when the fluid pushes the piston, the seal flexes and then when it retracts, it grabs the caliper piston with it. Hope that was clear. Thanks !
@@OneTrickTech Yes, thank you 🙏💕for the clarification. Now the idea has been clarified well. There must be a strong movement to return the beast to its place again 🤔after the oil pushed it forward and out of its place. Thank you very much for the clarification.👍🌷🌿🙏
This is like the 3rd or 4th video i've watched today, Here's the problem, I replaced the caliber on the rear passenger side, And i'm having the same problem with the new one, Am a delivery driver, So I went through my replacement brake pads pretty fast, Like 6 to 8 months The driver side wore so badly that I had to replace, The rotor too, l ( By the way, I am replacing both rotors, And all The pads for the rear.) The problem I'm having is, why is A Rear caliber for the passenger side frozen AGAIN!??! It is a 2020 Nissan centra, SV... like Is it common for the rear passenger caliber to freeze up?? Or do I just have a bad rear hose?
Might be dirty fluid? Hoses have any cracks in them when you slightly bend them and inspect? But I think you might need to bleed them properly.Start bleeding the farthest caliper from the reservoir first.And keep your fluid level topped off after every wheel caliper you do.Have someone pump a few times,like 5x,then hold the brake pedal down without ever letting off.While you open the line and barely open the bleeder valve,till the pumper signifies the pedal is all the way down.And tighten the valve and then the pumper can release the brake and start pumping it up again,5x,,then holds.And you open and repeat the process.Never let the pumper let off till you have the valve tight.That keeps air from getting into the line.Then goto next farthest caliper,and then on the front again farthest,till your at the closest to the reservoir.Never run out of fluid in it.And go around them again till you have a good stiff pedal on the brake.That opens the caliper drums and pads after you pressed them while driving.And your rotors should turn freely after you bleed them real good.Good luck and hope it works out for you and you get the job done safely and orderly.
@@mitchellr.edwards381 Bro thank you very much, Unfortunately, I still need to get a new Rear brake caliber, Within my struggles I ripped the boot..... Very frustrated I was
brake hoses can have blockages going either way.
Good, concise video. There's no need to replace calipers in pairs of only one goes?
Yea no need. The other can last another couple years and many miles. Just replace the bad one because it could also be a manufacture defect.
Oof..Bad advice. If you do something on one side, dude, always do the other side of the axle too. Or be cheap. If I replace the RP caliper, I'm replacing the RD caliper too...
@@OneTrickTech
Good video bro
Do you recommend going to a machine shop to resurface the rotors?
If the cost of resurfacing is lower than 2 new rotors then go for it. I personally would just buy new rotors
New rotors are about $100 each while resurface can be $20 each. I’ve had my rotors resurfaced by sketchy shops, I ended up buying new ones. I’ve also had rotors resurfaced by professionals and I was amazed at how good they looked. I want to say it’s not always the shops it’s the people working there.
I had a shop that would turn rotors, but the last time I went there they said no one working there knew how to operate the machine. Sign of the times.
My rearward brake only works when I pull the ebrake slightly and then use the front brakes everything feels nice. But just using the city brake the rear brake isn't engaging but disengages . When I use the ebrake it engages and and disengages slightly I can feel the front brakes and rear brakes working right when I slightly pull the ebrake then use the city brake to come to a stop . But if I use just the city brake it won't engage.
Hey there, I believe you might have a brake hose that's clogged up, the ones in the rear. If you're ebrake is integrated with the caliper, then you might have a faulty caliper. If you're ebrake is linked to rear drums, then check both rear calipers and brake hoses.
also check for guide pins that are seized, they can cause you to loose a lot of braking power
So I have the noise but it’s not slowly rotating. Tire spins and rotor spins fine. Just a bad noise. Had bearing, rotor, pad, and caliper replaced. Still making noise. Is it the bracket that may be unaligned?
Is the noise a clanking or a grinding/scraping
@@tblakadadon6054sounds like it at 0:47. Like I said it doesn’t have break problems at all. Just so loud noise
All the last few sets of brakes pads I replaced on 2 different cars, different brands were really tight on the calipers because of the clips. Here this seems way to easy to remove the pads. What is your take on this? Thanks
@benhaze1010 They should move freely on the caliper bracket. They usually get really tight because of rust build up underneath the clips. Every brake job I do, I clean the caliper bracket with a wire brush and file. Then I add anti seize before putting the new clips to slow down the rust build up.
@@OneTrickTech Thanks for the response! Yes I do the same as well. It seems the last 2 brands I used make the anti-rattle clip very wide and stiff to avoid noise complaints but makes their installation more challenging or I am getting parts not meeting OEM specs :(
What if I push the piston in and a few seconds later it slowly goes back out? Is that just a bad piston?
most likely you have an air pocket in the system. Something is pushing the piston back out, and its not the brake fluid. Could also be the caliper , the seal might be bad. Try bleeding that caliper first and see what happens.
@@OneTrickTech ok yeah I bled it and still the same. It is old. So I just replaced the caliper completely and hopefully it’s good. I had to go to work. So tomorrow I’ll check to see how it is.
How to piston caliper back again inside after push the brake stop??
if the piston does not go back in, then you will need a new caliper its seized
@@OneTrickTech
I am asking about how the mechanical movement of the piston works. When the oil is pressed, it pushes forward, and when the pressure is lifted from the brake pedal, the oil returns again. Whoever returns the piston ?
@@LOLO-vu9qi Ok I see, its called the square cut piston seal inside the caliper that returns the piston. It acts like a spring, when the fluid pushes the piston, the seal flexes and then when it retracts, it grabs the caliper piston with it. Hope that was clear. Thanks !
@@OneTrickTech
Yes, thank you 🙏💕for the clarification. Now the idea has been clarified well. There must be a strong movement to return the beast to its place again 🤔after the oil pushed it forward and out of its place. Thank you very much for the clarification.👍🌷🌿🙏
What if you replace seal of the caliper and continues binding should i go further to replace caliper
hard to say. A new caliper will also have a new piston so that can help fix the issue.
This is like the 3rd or 4th video i've watched today, Here's the problem, I replaced the caliber on the rear passenger side, And i'm having the same problem with the new one, Am a delivery driver, So I went through my replacement brake pads pretty fast, Like 6 to 8 months The driver side wore so badly that I had to replace, The rotor too, l ( By the way, I am replacing both rotors, And all The pads for the rear.) The problem I'm having is, why is A Rear caliber for the passenger side frozen AGAIN!??! It is a 2020 Nissan centra, SV... like Is it common for the rear passenger caliber to freeze up?? Or do I just have a bad rear hose?
Might be dirty fluid? Hoses have any cracks in them when you slightly bend them and inspect? But I think you might need to bleed them properly.Start bleeding the farthest caliper from the reservoir first.And keep your fluid level topped off after every wheel caliper you do.Have someone pump a few times,like 5x,then hold the brake pedal down without ever letting off.While you open the line and barely open the bleeder valve,till the pumper signifies the pedal is all the way down.And tighten the valve and then the pumper can release the brake and start pumping it up again,5x,,then holds.And you open and repeat the process.Never let the pumper let off till you have the valve tight.That keeps air from getting into the line.Then goto next farthest caliper,and then on the front again farthest,till your at the closest to the reservoir.Never run out of fluid in it.And go around them again till you have a good stiff pedal on the brake.That opens the caliper drums and pads after you pressed them while driving.And your rotors should turn freely after you bleed them real good.Good luck and hope it works out for you and you get the job done safely and orderly.
@@mitchellr.edwards381 Bro thank you very much, Unfortunately, I still need to get a new Rear brake caliber, Within my struggles I ripped the boot..... Very frustrated I was