Wood Dock with pipe bracket hardware for lakes and ponds. Great Northern Docks Pipe Dock Hardware demonstrated by Seth Merriam greatnorthernd... greatnorthernd...
Would this be strong enough to last through winters on a pond that freezes over? Or do you absolutely need to remove/reinstall the dock each year? Great video
@@michaelhoulihan3158 a small amount of ice is very powerful as the weight of it moves crushing anything in its way as water level changes. That is why the dock pieces are made in sizes you can lift in and out for winter storage.
Love this! Have the beook "Building your Own Dock", to which this video related. In the book it states when joining sections using the J-bracket to then drill through both headers and insert a 4" bolt. Is this necessary, as I don't see this in the video? I have a small 1/2 acre springfed pond that sometimes gets maybe 2" of ice in the winter, and was wondering (if its really necessary?) to remove it each season, then these extra bolts would make it more difficult to disassemble.
Yes, you can and I do. I mention it briefly in the video but the bracket also has the clamping bolts. I think the center bolt is a good place idea in addition to the clamp bolts.
Love the vid do you sell the plans. I am thinking of building something just like this. Wanted to see how much of each item I would need. I am in Utah.
Can the pipe be mounted on the inside of the frame and then cut so the decking can be placed over it? I’m looking to hide the support system as much as possible.
Yes but I prefer outside for strength and I put vertical bumpers on the poles. Using the inside bracket isn’t nearly as strong as the outside one and you have to put blocking in adding weight to the frame just so you can have the pipe come up through a hole in the deck boards at the ends. The board usually splits at the ends doing this. It’s kind of an older technique that I see less of because it’s more complicated and heavier. Here is the bracket but they are usually only used on the outside edge where there is an L. Make sure you use bracing if you do it this way. greatnortherndocks.com/product/corner-pipe-bracket-4059/
@@carsonguddat4909 They work in mud if the mud changes to gravel. It’s not fun working in the muck with legs and feet. I usually would advise the floating dock option in clam muddy areas. Here is a link. greatnortherndocks.com/floating-hardware/
It’s here in this page. You will need the pipe foot too. Maybe jack pole extension if you want to add length to the pole for deeper water. The pole is available at most hardware or plumbing supply stores. Industry standard 1.5” schedule 40 galvanized pipe. Costly to ship from here because of length and weight but available all over the world. Most other parts fit in a UPS truck. greatnortherndocks.com/dock-tools-2/
Pretty nice system I like the fact that it’s mostly manageable by one or two guys In small sections I’ve been looking at property that does have a dock installed but I would like to make modifications to accommodate my vessels and lifestyle at this time I don’t have much in any heavy machinery but do have plans for some in the future most likely a mini excavator
I guess im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly lost the login password. I love any tips you can offer me.
@Jacob River I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
I can’t find the driving cap/super driving cap on the website. Are those available? And if you drive the pipes in 2’, how easy is it to pull them out for winter storage? My pond bottom is clay.
greatnortherndocks.com/dock-tools-2/ The pipes pull out with easiest by twisting by hand or with a pipe wrench or the pipe puller on the tools page above. Make sure the pipe socket is not binding when pulling pipe out. Keep the winch ready to raise up or down on the frame so you can feel the pipe free inside the pipe socket. Twist and pull up on the pipe. If pipe is really stuck with suction, tie a winch on the pipe and crank it out with the jack pole.
I drive them as far as I can or enough that I feel will secure a boat tied to the dock. The deeper they are, the better but if not necessary, don’t put in the extra material and time. As for PVC, I didn’t ever consider doing anything like that. These pipes are what we have used since 1979 and we just pound them in. The docks come out every season for ice in the winter. The legs get driven each time and they hold great.
How does it not slip on the pipes? The only thing holding it up is the compression of each bolt on the brackets? How can this be enough compared to ciment pillars and piece on piece structure. Please reassure me.
It doesn’t and hasn’t in over 40 years. Each 1/2” set screw is rated for 500 lb holding capacity. There are two set screws in the pipe brackets. We’ve sold thousands of docks that use these set screws. We test our brackets as well by overloading them with concrete. Your wood frame would break before the set screws fail. A set screw is not like a regular bolt. They are designed for this purpose and have a cup shaped end that grips into the pipe. Galvanized steel pipe works best.
@@SethMerriam Very interesting. I am planning to build stairs on a 40-50% slope to access my waterfront. I've seen some builders have used this system to build on rough terrain to avoid traditional digging and cement pillars. So building a 20 meters stairway/walkway on a 50% grade with this system could be a good idea based on your experience?
@@nicolasroberge2829 yes, we’ve done may of them. You can use the flush mount pipe brackets to bolt to the side stringers. This page is helpful. You probably will need the pipe feet as well so the pipe doesn’t settle deeper in the hillside. greatnortherndocks.com/product/flush-mount-pipe-bracket-4183-2/
So the only thing stopping the deck from dropping are the hex wrench bolts on the pipe bracket? Are they as strong as standard bolts through a wooden post?
This pipe bracket has 2 set screws with 500 lb holding capacity each. Your load is divided by number of legs as well. I make a bracket for a wooden post too. Check that video out too if you have time. That bracket is a clamp that pinches the post. There is also a hole for a lag bolt into the post if you want extra holding strength. czcams.com/video/iusA-zLwGAg/video.html
That is a good question. The hardware is marine grade aluminum. The galvanized pipe we use in lakes may be something you have to replace. Most of the hardware is above water so will last a long time. Consider the cost of galvanized pipe as it gets worn down by the environment. It won’t be too hard on your wallet and worth the effort. Marine grade aluminum pipe is available but set screws don’t stay very tight in aluminum as it chips away. Steel pipe is malleable so set screws hold very well without the chipping away around the set screws. I would just plan on refreshing pipe as needed. Salt will eat it but not over night. Replacing pipe legs is quite easy if you support the dock on the jack pole. I hope this helps answer your questions.
Pipe feet add stability and keep the pipe from packing deeper into the dirt. The pipe foot is also used on the jack pole with leveling winch when raising sections. If the bottom is firm enough you may not need it on the dock legs. If the bottom is too soft, you might rather build a floating dock.
Great little dock for a pond. Do you make one for the ocean. As the one in the video has zero support for waves or a boat. Does the company make a leg that screws into the bottom so waves don't wash it away?
Lakes, ponds and tidal inlets are the specialty but here are some of the ocean front stairs bolted to rock. Also linked here is the auger for screwing pipes into the sand. FYI, ocean sand at beaches changes a lot. The auger is great for dune crossings but a rough ocean can be a challenge. These docks are made to be portable and installed with hand tools. czcams.com/video/xFogozEItmQ/video.html czcams.com/video/xfKHjKlViGU/video.html czcams.com/video/MbNyDR3PajI/video.html greatnortherndocks.com/product/pipe-auger-2-pack-2195/
Here is the website where you can see prices and order them. A good product does have a price and they last a long time. Also made in the USA. greatnortherndocks.com/stationary-pipe-hardware/dock-hardware-pipe-leg-support/
Yes, that is why it is made in manageable sections with adjustable legs. Install and removal is fairly quick. Ice is very powerful and destructive when it moves. It’s good to take your boat and dock out for the winter freeze.
1.5” schedule 40 galvanized pipe. It’s an industry standard size used for many projects and available at most plumbing or steel supply stores. Outer diameter is 1 7/8”.
The parts are marine grade aluminum. The parts under water are the poles and feet. Poles are galvanized steel. We do use them in salt water and yes salt water is corrosive. The longevity is not the same as fresh water. You will have to inspect and maintain parts more frequently as salt speeds up the reaction underwater. You might rather consider a floating dock that uses our polyethylene float drums. Anchoring would be the only metal used underwater. Take a look at the MPD or the floating wood dock hardware. Here are the links. greatnortherndocks.com/plastic-dock/ greatnortherndocks.com/floating-hardware/plans-estimated-pricing/
I've had one of those TommyDocks all aluminum & trex POS's I bought new in like 2014 (Which is UNDER 1/4 of the current 2023 Price #ThanksObama) & It didn't even occur to me until watching this video that the pipes should go a good bit below (or above depending on how you look at it) the feet. looool *NO WONDER I've been through like 3 sets of feet in the past 2 seasons...* Keep on thuggin, Seth. You my Knee Grow for that one, boi!
Nothing like a salesman that actually knows the product....Thanks for the video.
Lol, funny video but honestly one of the best instructive one I've seen. I can't believe you don't have more views.
Would this be strong enough to last through winters on a pond that freezes over? Or do you absolutely need to remove/reinstall the dock each year? Great video
@@michaelhoulihan3158 a small amount of ice is very powerful as the weight of it moves crushing anything in its way as water level changes.
That is why the dock pieces are made in sizes you can lift in and out for winter storage.
GOOD! Thanks..
Thank you for making this video. Very helpful and informative.
So the two guys were same guy right?
Love this! Have the beook "Building your Own Dock", to which this video related. In the book it states when joining sections using the J-bracket to then drill through both headers and insert a 4" bolt. Is this necessary, as I don't see this in the video? I have a small 1/2 acre springfed pond that sometimes gets maybe 2" of ice in the winter, and was wondering (if its really necessary?) to remove it each season, then these extra bolts would make it more difficult to disassemble.
Yes, you can and I do.
I mention it briefly in the video but the bracket also has the clamping bolts.
I think the center bolt is a good place idea in addition to the clamp bolts.
Very instructive and clear!.can you install the by water jetting (down through the pipe) as opposed to hammering?
You can but sometimes the soil isn’t as tight around the pipe being much less stable.
Love the vid do you sell the plans. I am thinking of building something just like this. Wanted to see how much of each item I would need. I am in Utah.
Yes
greatnortherndocks.com/product/dock-section-plan-4-x10/
greatnortherndocks.com/dock-plans-diy-parts/
Can the pipe be mounted on the inside of the frame and then cut so the decking can be placed over it? I’m looking to hide the support system as much as possible.
Yes but I prefer outside for strength and I put vertical bumpers on the poles.
Using the inside bracket isn’t nearly as strong as the outside one and you have to put blocking in adding weight to the frame just so you can have the pipe come up through a hole in the deck boards at the ends. The board usually splits at the ends doing this.
It’s kind of an older technique that I see less of because it’s more complicated and heavier.
Here is the bracket but they are usually only used on the outside edge where there is an L.
Make sure you use bracing if you do it this way.
greatnortherndocks.com/product/corner-pipe-bracket-4059/
Would these legs work in very soft and deep mud?
@@carsonguddat4909 They work in mud if the mud changes to gravel.
It’s not fun working in the muck with legs and feet.
I usually would advise the floating dock option in clam muddy areas. Here is a link.
greatnortherndocks.com/floating-hardware/
This system looks great… but is there a better protective coating for brackish or salty water?
People will sometimes order our products and have them powder coated.
The brackets are marine grade aluminum.
What do you call those corner brackets for the pipes
@@bigtamd1 greatnortherndocks.com/product/corner-socket-4050-2/
Great video! I need the jack
It’s here in this page. You will need the pipe foot too. Maybe jack pole extension if you want to add length to the pole for deeper water.
The pole is available at most hardware or plumbing supply stores.
Industry standard 1.5” schedule 40 galvanized pipe.
Costly to ship from here because of length and weight but available all over the world.
Most other parts fit in a UPS truck.
greatnortherndocks.com/dock-tools-2/
Pretty cool 😎
Pretty nice system I like the fact that it’s mostly manageable by one or two guys In small sections I’ve been looking at property that does have a dock installed but I would like to make modifications to accommodate my vessels and lifestyle at this time I don’t have much in any heavy machinery but do have plans for some in the future most likely a mini excavator
I guess im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a method to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost the login password. I love any tips you can offer me.
@Jack Grady Instablaster =)
@Jacob River I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Jacob River It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass!
@Jack Grady you are welcome :D
I can’t find the driving cap/super driving cap on the website. Are those available?
And if you drive the pipes in 2’, how easy is it to pull them out for winter storage? My pond bottom is clay.
greatnortherndocks.com/dock-tools-2/
The pipes pull out with easiest by twisting by hand or with a pipe wrench or the pipe puller on the tools page above.
Make sure the pipe socket is not binding when pulling pipe out. Keep the winch ready to raise up or down on the frame so you can feel the pipe free inside the pipe socket. Twist and pull up on the pipe.
If pipe is really stuck with suction, tie a winch on the pipe and crank it out with the jack pole.
How deep did you drive the posts? Did you consider driving a pvc pipe to put the metal posts into first?
I drive them as far as I can or enough that I feel will secure a boat tied to the dock. The deeper they are, the better but if not necessary, don’t put in the extra material and time.
As for PVC, I didn’t ever consider doing anything like that.
These pipes are what we have used since 1979 and we just pound them in.
The docks come out every season for ice in the winter. The legs get driven each time and they hold great.
How far into the soil should these poles be driven? Is this setup strong enough to hold a pontoon in a no-wake area of a lake?
About 2’ and yes it is strong enough.
How does it not slip on the pipes? The only thing holding it up is the compression of each bolt on the brackets? How can this be enough compared to ciment pillars and piece on piece structure. Please reassure me.
It doesn’t and hasn’t in over 40 years.
Each 1/2” set screw is rated for 500 lb holding capacity. There are two set screws in the pipe brackets.
We’ve sold thousands of docks that use these set screws.
We test our brackets as well by overloading them with concrete.
Your wood frame would break before the set screws fail.
A set screw is not like a regular bolt. They are designed for this purpose and have a cup shaped end that grips into the pipe.
Galvanized steel pipe works best.
@@SethMerriam Very interesting. I am planning to build stairs on a 40-50% slope to access my waterfront. I've seen some builders have used this system to build on rough terrain to avoid traditional digging and cement pillars. So building a 20 meters stairway/walkway on a 50% grade with this system could be a good idea based on your experience?
@@nicolasroberge2829 yes, we’ve done may of them.
You can use the flush mount pipe brackets to bolt to the side stringers. This page is helpful. You probably will need the pipe feet as well so the pipe doesn’t settle deeper in the hillside.
greatnortherndocks.com/product/flush-mount-pipe-bracket-4183-2/
So the only thing stopping the deck from dropping are the hex wrench bolts on the pipe bracket? Are they as strong as standard bolts through a wooden post?
This pipe bracket has 2 set screws with 500 lb holding capacity each. Your load is divided by number of legs as well. I make a bracket for a wooden post too. Check that video out too if you have time.
That bracket is a clamp that pinches the post. There is also a hole for a lag bolt into the post if you want extra holding strength.
czcams.com/video/iusA-zLwGAg/video.html
Looks like treated lumber for the frame. What did you use for the top decking?
Cedar
Seth can this same type dock/materials be built for a saltwater dock?
That is a good question. The hardware is marine grade aluminum. The galvanized pipe we use in lakes may be something you have to replace. Most of the hardware is above water so will last a long time. Consider the cost of galvanized pipe as it gets worn down by the environment.
It won’t be too hard on your wallet and worth the effort.
Marine grade aluminum pipe is available but set screws don’t stay very tight in aluminum as it chips away. Steel pipe is malleable so set screws hold very well without the chipping away around the set screws.
I would just plan on refreshing pipe as needed. Salt will eat it but not over night.
Replacing pipe legs is quite easy if you support the dock on the jack pole.
I hope this helps answer your questions.
The corner socket part number is not 4O5O. It's 4050. That's pronounced four zero five zero, not four oh five oh.
But a REALLY great job otherwise.
You can still search and it will come up if you type it one way or another.
What’s the purpose of the pipe feet?
Pipe feet add stability and keep the pipe from packing deeper into the dirt. The pipe foot is also used on the jack pole with leveling winch when raising sections. If the bottom is firm enough you may not need it on the dock legs. If the bottom is too soft, you might rather build a floating dock.
Great little dock for a pond.
Do you make one for the ocean. As the one in the video has zero support for waves or a boat.
Does the company make a leg that screws into the bottom so waves don't wash it away?
Lakes, ponds and tidal inlets are the specialty but here are some of the ocean front stairs bolted to rock. Also linked here is the auger for screwing pipes into the sand. FYI, ocean sand at beaches changes a lot. The auger is great for dune crossings but a rough ocean can be a challenge. These docks are made to be portable and installed with hand tools.
czcams.com/video/xFogozEItmQ/video.html
czcams.com/video/xfKHjKlViGU/video.html
czcams.com/video/MbNyDR3PajI/video.html
greatnortherndocks.com/product/pipe-auger-2-pack-2195/
I would love to use these brackets! are they expensive?
Here is the website where you can see prices and order them.
A good product does have a price and they last a long time. Also made in the USA. greatnortherndocks.com/stationary-pipe-hardware/dock-hardware-pipe-leg-support/
Do you have any videos on installing these in deeper water say 8-12ft Deepwater??
Same idea but I add braces once the sections are up and level. Here is a link.
greatnortherndocks.com/?s=Hook+and+lock
Would this dock have to be removed when the water freezes?
Yes, that is why it is made in manageable sections with adjustable legs. Install and removal is fairly quick.
Ice is very powerful and destructive when it moves. It’s good to take your boat and dock out for the winter freeze.
Is that initial platform a 3 x 6? or 4 x 8?
4’x10’
is that galv. gas pipe for houses like they sell at home depot ????
1.5” schedule 40 galvanized pipe.
It’s an industry standard size used for many projects and available at most plumbing or steel supply stores.
Outer diameter is 1 7/8”.
Will this system work in seawater or brackish water?
The parts are marine grade aluminum.
The parts under water are the poles and feet. Poles are galvanized steel. We do use them in salt water and yes salt water is corrosive. The longevity is not the same as fresh water. You will have to inspect and maintain parts more frequently as salt speeds up the reaction underwater. You might rather consider a floating dock that uses our polyethylene float drums.
Anchoring would be the only metal used underwater.
Take a look at the MPD or the floating wood dock hardware. Here are the links.
greatnortherndocks.com/plastic-dock/
greatnortherndocks.com/floating-hardware/plans-estimated-pricing/
What about ice
Made modular to be taken apart for lakes that freeze.
I've had one of those TommyDocks all aluminum & trex POS's I bought new in like 2014 (Which is UNDER 1/4 of the current 2023 Price #ThanksObama) & It didn't even occur to me until watching this video that the pipes should go a good bit below (or above depending on how you look at it) the feet. looool *NO WONDER I've been through like 3 sets of feet in the past 2 seasons...* Keep on thuggin, Seth. You my Knee Grow for that one, boi!